Sewing World 2017-05

6 FREE full-size patterns inside!
9 Must Sew
Projects!
We Meet …
Liesl Gibson
from Oliver + S
Spring
Sewing Get to know
your pins
Projects for you

Girls Spring and your home
Appliqué Dress
Sizes 9 months – 3 years
Expert Sewing Tips

May 2017 Issue 255 £4.99
Dressmaking Embroidery Appliqué Patchwork

Hello Emma Horrocks
sw@mytimemed
ia.com
Leanne Smith
sw@mytimemed
ia.com
Welcome to the May 2017 issue of Sewing World!

This issue is packed full of fresh projects, perfect for celebrating the
arrival of warmer weather.
The little girls Spring Appliqué Dress features pretty flower and
ladybird appliqué and will inspire all sorts of fun and adventures whilst
playing in the spring garden. For more fabric frolics – the Vegetable
Delight toys can help demonstrate the importance of eating healthily,
whilst creating some delicious produce for a pretend market stall. And
for even smaller members of the family, the Monkey Business shorts
and jacket set for toddler boys, is a stylish and practical twinset, ideal
for romping around outside.
For lazy May mornings, why not make yourself a pair of perfectly fitting
Orton Pyjama Bottoms. This easy pattern is a perfect excuse to get
sewing with some lovely florals or your latest, favourite fabric print.
And to keep your toes warm whilst lounging on the sofa, the gorgeous
Spring Throw is an eye catching and lightweight cover just right for the
season. Love Your Clothes Supercrafter Lauren Guthrie, shows us how
to upcycle jeans to create a striking Chevron Tote for a wonderfully
strong shopping bag. Or why not try the cleverly folded Origami Bag
to make a reversible and stylish market bag, complete with a sturdy
leather handle.
Plus, we have some inspiring features this month. Kerry Green

meets the clothing designer Liesl Gibson who founded the innovative
children’s clothing pattern brand Oliver + S and we also take a look
around the captivating textile exhibition Entangled: Thread & Making.
All this, plus regulars, favourites and more!
Emma & Leanne

PS For those of you who love your iPad and Smartphones, Do get in touch and share pictures of your makes, we’d love to hear from you!
Sewing World magazine is available to download as
Facebook.com/sewingworldmagazine
an app from apps stores or for home computers, click on
www.pocketmags.com. For digital readers, the patterns Twitter.com/sewingworldmag
can be downloaded from the Sewing World website,
www.sewingworldmagazine.com Pinterest.com/sewingworldmag
www.sewingworldmagazine.com 3
24 16 32
Contents
May 2017
44 Techniques &
Features
54 Entangled: Threads & Making,
Exhibition Review
Thread is the unifying element of
this rainbow of a show
58 Mrs Bowden’s Top Tips
Fundamental techniques for the
home dressmaker
36 62 Pattern Review
Jo Roberts from Three Stories
Regulars High tries out the Simplicity
1332A pattern
3 Hello
64 We Meet … Liesl Gibson
6 Go Shopping! Designer and founder of
8 News innovative children’s clothing
10 Fabric Showcase – Flora & Fauna brand Oliver + S
50 Coming Next Month 68 Get to Know Your Pins

A guide to the different pin types
72 Pattern Picks to use when sewing
77 Bookshelf 74 Course Roundup
80 The Final Thread Find workshops and courses in
82 Stitched Stories 28 your area
4 www.sewingworldmagazine.com
Projects
20
WORLD
12 Girls Spring Appliqué Dress
Published by MyTimeMedia Ltd
Featuring a fun garden Eden House, Enterprise Way, Edenbridge, Kent TN8 6HF
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of adventures SUBSCRIPTIONS
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Email: help@sw.secureorder.co.uk
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REST OF WORLD -
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20 Spring Throw Tel: +44 1604 828 748
offers!
Make this eye catching and BACK ISSUES & BINDERS
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durable throw using offcuts Tel: 01733 688964
and remnants EDITORIAL
Editors: Emma Horrocks & Leanne Smith
24 Big Top Toy Sack 12 Email: sw@mytimemedia.com
Photography: Laura Eddolls and Tim Bowden
Bring the fun of the circus Photography
into your home with this Contributors: Aneka Truman, Gemma Goode, Julia
Claridge, Doriana Draghici, Josie Day, Mary Hall, Abigail
fantastic drawstring bag Bury, Emily Levey, Lauren Guthrie, Amanda Bowden,
Minerva Crafts, Deborah Nash and Kerry Green.
28 Origami Bag
PRODUCTION
Created using a clever folding Design: Katy Evans
technique, this useful market ADVERTISING
bag is also reversible! Account Manager: Anne De Lanoy
Email: anne.delanoy@mytimemedia.com
32 Orton Pyjama Bottoms Tel: 07990 978389
Group Advertising Manager: Rhona Bolger
Make yourself a perfectly Email: rhona.bolger@mytimemedia.com
fitting pair of pyjama bottoms Tel: 01689 869891
for lazy May mornings MARKETING & SUBSCRIPTIONS

Wendy Adams
36 Fabric Vegetable Delights Email: wendy.adams@mytimemedia.com
MANAGEMENT
Demonstrate the importance Chief Executive: Owen Davies
of eating well with these cute Chairman: Peter Harkness
vegetables toys 40
40 Washing Day Laundry Set © MyTimeMedia Ltd. 2017.
Brighten up your washing All rights reserved ISSN 1352-013X
The Publisher’s written consent must be obtained before
day with this matching peg any part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
whatsoever, including photocopiers, and information retrieval
and laundry bag systems. All reasonable care is taken in the preparation of the
magazine contents, but the publishers cannot be held legally
44 Monkey Business Boys responsible for errors in the contents of this magazine or
for any loss however arising from such errors, including loss
Twin Piece resulting from negligence of our staff. Reliance placed upon the
contents of this magazine is at reader’s own risk.
This cute twinset includes a SEWING WORLD, ISSN 1352-013X, is published monthly by
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pair of elasticated shorts Airfreight and mailing in the USA by agent named Air Business
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REGULAR Go Shopping
The Flint Pattern

Choose from stylish wide leg cropped pants or cute shorts with a
unique crossover closure at the side seam with this perfect spring/
summer pattern from Megan Nielsen. The pattern sits on the
natural waist and features a hidden closure at the left pocket,
release tucks at the front, darts at the back, slash pockets, two
waistband options and two lengths.
Find your local stockist at

www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist
Go Shopping!
Crossstitch to Calm
Every year, one in four people will experience a mental
health problem. Relaxing activities like cross stitch can
help reduce stress and improve mental wellbeing.
Sewandso are delighted to have created six calming cross
stitch kits that can be framed in an embroidery hoop as a
decorative piece of wall art, calming the mind each time
you look at it. Designs include a fossil, cheery blossom and
a butterfly. With at least 10% of the sale price going to
mental health charity Mind, what better way to support this
fantastic cause.
RRP is £4.99 per kit
These kits are available to

purchase from SewandSo,
www.sewandso.co.uk/category/cross-stitch-to-calm
Go Shopping REGULAR
Little Ragsmith Baby and Toddler

Dress Kit
This charming dress kit was designed and made by UK brand Little
Ragsmith. Each kit comes with beautifully printed dress panels for
you to cut out and sew, full detailed instructions, matching thread and
bias binding for finishing the dress. Available in two colourways, a
lovely greyish teal blue with a coral binding or a subtle pale pink. And
if that isn’t enough, you can also buy a matching doll and doll’s dress
kit, your little girl will love to wear the same dress as her dolly!
RRP for the dress kit is £36
To see Little Ragsmith’s full range visit,

www.notonthehighstreet.com/littleragsmith
Bordeaux Magnetic Pin Caddy

This new Magnetic Pin Caddy from Clover has a centre groove
that makes picking up pins really easy and the cover makes for
safe and easy storage. The caddies can also be stacked on top
of another allow for further storage.
RRP is £18.99
Clover products are available nationwide from all good

craft, sewing and hobby shops. For stockist information,
contact Clover mail: clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk
Atelier Brunette Sweatshirt Fabric

Introducing the new Atelier Brunette French terry fabric!
Made with 95% cotton and 5% elastane, this fabric is
stretchy (30% stretch), ultra soft and easy to sew. With a
density of 250g/m2, it is ideal for sewing sweatshirts,
trousers and casual dresses for children and adults.
Available in four timeless variations that are ideal for
making everyday clothing, they feature metallic dots and
confetti prints in gold and pink.
RRP is £22 per metre
Available to buy from Backstitch,

www.backstitch.co.uk
NEWS NEWS NEWS
Get the latest What’s going on in the world of sewing…
Exhibition of the month Campaign for Creativity
House Style – A group of leading UK textile artists,
Chatsworth House designers, craftspeople and The
An exhibition exploring Knitting & Stitching Show are
five centuries of petitioning to put creativity back on
fashion and adornment the map and are inviting you to
at Chatsworth. House take part in their Campaign for
Style demonstrates Creativity. The petition calls for
the power of fashion more and better opportunities
and showcases never- for children at school to think,
before-seen items and be creative and asks
from the Devonshire Education Secretary Justine
Collection to tell the Greening to protect creative
stories of some of the subjects in formal education. Campaign for Creativity
fascinating individuals Mistress of the Robes Cor
supporter and Artistic Director of The Embroiderers’
to have walked onation Guild, Anthea Godfrey says: “Creativity is vital to child
Gown, Painted Hall, Cha
tsworth,
the Chatsworth 2016, © Chatsworth development, not only as a means of expression
floors. Garments and communication but to support life skills such
include those from as problem-solving, strategic thinking and resilience.
captivating individuals from the Cavendish family, including Creative thinkers hold the key to the UK’s future success,
Bess of Hardwick, one of the most powerful women of not just in culture and the arts but across business and
the 16th century; the 18th century ‘Empress of Fashion’ industry too. We must do all we can to ensure creative
Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire; and Adele Astaire, subjects are not side lined in the education system.” Sign
the sister and dance partner of Fred Astaire. Deborah the online petition at change.org or at one of The Knitting
Devonshire and Nancy Mitford, two of the Mitford sisters. & Stitching shows this year. Or why not add your name
Model Stella Tennant and John F Kennedy’s sister ‘Kick’ to the ‘Creation’, creative petition - a wall of embroidered
Kennedy will also be central to the show. Exhibition runs signatures. Visit www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com for
until 22nd October 2017, the exhibition is included with more details on the campaign, the 2017 shows and how
entry to the house. For more information, visit www. you can get involved.
chatsworth.org
Celebrate Spring with Oakshott

Oakshott Fabrics are known for their timeless and glorious collection of fine, lustrous,
shot cotton fabrics in a rainbow of vibrant and tonal colours. Celebrate spring and allow
their yellow and green shades to take centre stage in your sewing projects. Buy fabric in
individual tones or as one of their beautiful and carefully colour co-ordinated fat eighth
or fat quarter fabric bundles, each with evocative floral spring names such as Daffodil,
Buttercup and Moss. Plus, they have a brand new, shiny website for you to explore. For
further details and to buy, visit www.oakshottfabrics.com
Reader Offer!
Sewing World readers can
receive 15% off orders placed with
Oakshott before 31st May 2017.
Use the special code HELLOSPRING
at the checkout. Minimum order
value is £25 (shipping charges
are excluded).
NEWS NEWS NEWS
Nicola Jarvis in John Lewis Handmade at Amazon
Nicola Jarvis is widely known in the global stitching
community for her beautiful embroidery, kits and projects.
Nicola trained at the Royal School of Needlework and
spent ten years working in the British fashion industry as
a sample embroiderer for numerous high street brands.
Nicola is now supplying John Lewis with a capsule
collection of her beautiful, bird themed, crewel embroidery
kits. Kits include a rather regal Green Woodpecker, very Kirstie Allsopp has teamed up with Handmade
stylish monochrome and mustard blackbird and a feathery, at Amazon, a new store featuring thousands of
red breasted robin. All kits contain handcrafted products to help support up and coming
everything you’ll need to make artisans and the craft industry. Kirstie picks some of her
the lovely designs; threads, needle favourite handmade products; from soy wax candles
and pre-printed fabric. For more and knitted bootees to screen-printed and hand sewn
details and to buy, visit tea towels. The Handmade at Amazon store allows
www.johnlewis.com you to support the work of local artisans from across
the UK and also explore the world, as customers can
also shop by country to find products from artisans in
more than 50 countries. With support services to help
artisans grow their business, they also offer a number
of professional tools to make it easy to manage their
Amazon business. It sounds a great opportunity for
buyers and sellers alike.
For more information, visit www.amazon.co.uk/handmade
Readers’ Makes of the Month!

Our Readers’ Make of the Month winner for May is Di Kendall who
wins a rainbow of Mettler Poly Sheen threads – perfect for all your
sewing needs!
“Just before Christmas I was searching for Tweed fabric to make a man's
waistcoat when I came across this wool mix cloth at Croftmill. I decided to
make myself a waistcoat adding some metal steampunk inspired buttons that
I already had using Burda pattern 7769. I made both front and back from the
wool, lengthening the back so it drops lower than the front also adding a centre back vent. The front
is supported with a fusible canvas and the vest is fully lined. I love hand stitched buttonholes and this
tailored country style was perfect for them.”
Wow Di – your waistcoat looks a very accomplished and perfectly fitting garment too. I am sure it
will become a favourite in your wardrobe for many years to come.
Send us some pictures of YOUR makes and you too could be featured in the Makes of the Month PRIZES
column and win a lovely prize!
TO BE
Email: sw@mytimemedia.com or visit our Facebook page
www.facebook.com/sewingworldmagazine) WON!
REGULAR Fabric Showcase
Flora and Fauna
Birds Eye View

Designed by Sarah Watson for
Cloud9 Fabrics, this collection was
inspired by the designer’s Brazilian
surroundings. Filled with hand-drawn
illustrations of tropical fronds, bright
flowers and feathers, luscious fruits
and the detailed textures of lichen
and moss, it depicts a majestic
landscape where the desert meets
the rainforest. For more information
visit www.cloud9fabrics.com
Fabric Showcase REGULAR
Brighten up your sewing with prints that celebrate

our diverse and wonderful ecosystem
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
1 Terra in Twig 2 Butterflies in Navy 3 Anteaters Flannel in Midnight

100% cotton £3.60 per fat quarter 100% cotton £3.90 per fat quarter 100% cotton £4.80 per fat quarter
M is for Make, www.misformake.co.uk
4 Wild Flowers in Plum 5 Bouquet in Cream 6 Wild Flowers in Pink

100% cotton £15 per metre 100% cotton £15 per metre 100% cotton £15 per metre
Billow Fabrics, www.billowfabrics.co.uk
7 Bumble Beez 8 Sprinkled Peonies Fresh 9 Dreamer Moment In Time Light

100% cotton £3.75 per fat quarter 100% cotton £3.75 per fat quarter 100% cotton £3.75 per fat quarter
A selection of these prints can be found at Sew Me Something, www.sewmesomething.co.uk
PROJECT Girls Spring Appliqué Dress
Girls Spring MATERIALS
Appliqué Dress •
•
125cm main fabric –
cotton cloud print
Scraps of fabric for

appliqué
DESIGNED BY JULIA CLARIDGE FROM BOBBINS AND BUTTONS • Fusible web – Bondaweb
• 1m, 1cm wide bias binding
TO CUT
See pattern sheet for pattern pieces
2 Once happy with your appliqué
layout, peel off the paper backing
on your petal and leaf shapes and
• 40cm, 6mm wide elastic
iron in place on the front dress

Main fabric: panel.
– Cut 1 front on fold (1)
– Cut 1 back on fold (2)
– Cut 1 pair sleeves (3)
Sizing Chart:
Elastic: Size Chest Length centre

Choose correct measurement for size of back to hem
garment. 9-12 months 89cm 42.5cm
– Cut 37cm for age 9-12 months
– Cut 38cm for age 18m-2 years 18 months- 98cm 48.5cm
2 years
– Cut 39cm for age 2-3 years
2-3 years 98cm 51cm
TO SEW
1 Trace the appliqué shapes onto

fusible web (see pattern sheet).
3 Stitch two lines next to one
another for the flower stems and
a single line for the ladybird trail.
GOOD TO KNOW
Cut out roughly and iron shapes I used a black thread to create • Use 1.5cm seam allowance
onto relevant scraps of fabric, more impact. throughout.
cut out neatly. Using images as
a guide, draw a chalk line for the • Fabric width used throughout is
stems and the ladybird trail onto 114cm.
the front dress panel. Arrange the
appliqué shapes as desired.
5 Add the flower centres and

ladybird wings in the same
manner. Free motion stitch some
circles to the ladybird wings to
complete.
4 Drop the feed dogs and attach a

darning or free motion embroidery
foot to your machine, stitch the
petal and leaf shapes in place.
Also stitch the black base of the
ladybird.
Girls Spring Appliqué Dress PROJECT
A FUN GARDEN SCENE APPLIQUÉ GIRLS DRESS WITH ELASTICATED NECKLINE,

EASY FIT WITH PLENTY OF ROOM FOR ALL SORTS OF ADVENTURES.
PROJECT Girls Spring Appliqué Dress
6 To make the dress, prepare the

sleeves by folding and pressing a
narrow double folded hem to the
cuff edge. Leave unstitched at this
stage.
10 Press the bias tape to the inside

of the dress, stitch close to inner
edge (the other folded edge of the
bias tape, with raw edge tucked
in). Leave a small gap in this
line of stitching for inserting the
7 With RST and notches matched,

pin and stitch the sleeves to the
elastic.
dress front. Do the same with the

back. Neaten raw seams with
overlocking or zigzag stitch. Press
11
Attach elastic to a safety pin and
feed into the gap in the seam
on the edge of the bias tape. To
sleeve seams towards sleeve. create the gathers the elastic
is shorter than the neck edge,
keep hold of the end to ensure it
doesn’t disappear inside. When
the elastic is threaded through
remove the pin. Ensure the
elastic is not twisted, lay one
end a few centimetres over the
other and stitch together with a
zigzag stitch. Tuck elastic inside
the casing and hand stitch gap STOCKIST DETAILS
closed. Even out gathers.
Fabrics – www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk
8 Place front and back pieces

RST and pin side seams from
underarm to hem. Unfold the
Julia Claridge runs a small business
in Leicester where she offers sewing
pressed cuff edge to stitch from classes as well as selling good quality
the raw edge. Stitch and neaten dressmaking and craft fabrics online. She
raw edges. Refold the sleeve loves making kids clothing styles and
hem and stitch close to the inner enjoys designing for kids as she is always
folded edge. inspired by her little boy and girl.
9 Starting at the back neck, near a www.facebook.com/

seam but not on a seam, place Bobbins-n-buttons
the bias tape RST ensuring the
www.instagram.com/
raw edge aligns with the raw edge
bobbins_and_buttons
of the neckline. Fold the raw end
of the tape in and pin around the
neck edge following the crease
12
Fold a 1.5cm double turned hem
and stitch to complete. twitter.com/bobbinsnbuttons
line of the tape. Overlap the tape www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

by a couple of centimetres where
it joins. Stitch in the crease.
PROJECT Denim Chevron Tote
Denim Chevron •
MATERIALS
4-5 pairs old jeans – wider
legs are best. Keep to
Tote
similar weights of denim
and avoid anything very
stretchy
• 1 or 2 old leather belts
• 1 or 2 old shirts for lining (I

DESIGNED BY LAUREN GUTHRIE managed to use just one
but had to join two
sections together to get
enough for one of my
TO SEW larger panels)
TO CUT
Denim:
– Cut 10, 2½" x 18½" strips for front
1 To make one chevron panel, take
ten longer strips and ten shorter
strips. Arrange them as a mirror
• 50cm medium iron on
interfacing
chevron panel* image of each other, staggered • 16 tubular rivets 3-4mm

– Cut 10, 2½" x 13½" strips for front by 1½" from the top edge of each depth, 7.5mm diameter
chevron panel* strip as shown in the diagram. and hammer
– Cut 2, 3½" x 17" strips for sides
– Cut 1,14½" x 3½" for base 1.5" • Topstitch thread
– Cut pockets off back of the jeans for
internal patch pockets. Keep original • Chalk marker or pencil
topstitching by cutting fabric as close
to the pocket as you can • Quilting ruler
* I had four shades of denim so cut 3 very • Jeans needle for sewing
dark strips, 2 dark strips, 2 medium strips machine
and 3 light strips for each side in each
lig
e
blu
size. Bear in mind that the first and last • Leather hole punch
ht
er
da
er
blu
strip will only be visible a little bit once

lue
ht
rke
lig
e
rb
rb
ev
the bag is finished. Try to cut the strips

rke
en
lue
e
blu
da
da
out on the grain of the denim – use the

r
rke
da
rke
hemline of the jeans as a guide. The grain

rke
rb
da
lue
blu
st
en
is likely to be at a 90° angle to the hem.

blu
ev
st
rke
e
da
Shirt/lining fabric: GOOD TO KNOW

– Cut 2, 17" x 14½" for front/back lining
– Cut 2, 3½" x 17" for side gusset lining
– Cut 1, 14½" x 3½" for base gusset lining
2 With RST, sew the strips together,
remembering to keep the pieces
staggered. Press seams open.
• Finished bag size is approx. 16"
x 13½" x 2½" but you could easily
On unsewn sections, press fabric use the same process to make a
Belt(s): towards the wrong side of the bag to your preferred dimensions.
– Cut off buckle then cut in half, width fabric by ½".
ways, to make two straps • The seam allowance is ½"
throughout.
• Depending on the size of your

jeans you many need extra pairs,
especially if they are skinny fit.
Denim Chevron Tote PROJECT
THIS PROJECT IS THE PERFECT WAY TO USE UP THOSE OLD JEANS YOU HAVE
COLLECTED OVER THE YEARS! THE RE-PURPOSED DENIM AND BELT HANDLE IN
THIS PROJECT MAKES THE BAG SUPER STRONG AND STURDY. USE IT FOR
SHOPPING OR IT ALSO MAKES A GREAT WEEKEND BREAK BAG.
PROJECT Denim Chevron Tote
3 From these panels, cut strips on

the diagonal measuring 3¾" x
16¼". You’ll have space for three
7
Sew the side gusset strips to the
base gusset strip, stopping ½"
from either end.
on the larger panel and two from
the smaller panel. Make sure that
you have the corner of each strip
on the second seam line down
as shown in the picture. Line the
45° angle on the quilt ruler up
with the seam lines to make sure
8
Sew gusset to one front/back
panel with RST, using a ½" seam
allowance. Stitch each side and
the panels are cut out accurately the lower edge separately (i.e.
across all the seams. It is best don’t pivot at the corners like you
to use a chalk maker or pencil to might normally do). Stop ½" from
draw this out before cutting. the bottom, fold the gusset back,
sew along with bottom edge of
the bag.
4 Alternate the new strips to create

the chevron pattern. Starting
from the top edge, sew the strips
5
Repeat steps 1- 4 to make second
panel.
together, making sure that the

diagonal seam lines match up.
You should be able to slightly
6
Cut two strips of interfacing 3" x
14½", iron onto the top edge of the
front and back panels. If you used
9
Press the seam allowances
towards the front/back panel and
using topstitch thread, stitch the
stretch or bunch up the strips as lightweight fabric, you may want seam allowances in place to the
needed to make sure the seam to interface the whole panel to panel ⅛" from the seam line, with
lines match. Press seams open. give the bag more body. the front of the bag facing you. This
Once sewn, you may have an will help frame the bag. Continue
uneven edge at the bottom of the on the lower edge and other side,
panel, trim to shape. sewing them as separate lines of
stitching as it will be too tricky to
pivot at the corners.
Denim Chevron Tote PROJECT
10 Sew the other panel onto the

gusset in the same way, sewing
each side separately and stopping
14
Turn the bag and lining right way
out, gently pushing them though
the gap. Press seam flat, making
17 Using the tubular rivets attach the
strap onto your bag. Push the longer
side of the rivet through the strap
½" from the bottom. Topstitching sure that the lining is hidden first, then though the bag. Then
the seam allowances to the front/ inside the bag. Tuck the raw click on the smaller side of the rivet.
back panel will be a bit trickier but edges of the gap in, press and pin Secure in place using a hammer and
just take it slowly. gap closed. the little circular disc that comes
with the rivets to protect the surface
11
Sew the patch pockets from the
jeans onto one of the front/back
panels of the lining fabric with a
you are working on.
little triangle at the top corners.

This will make them stronger
and help prevent the fabric from
ripping. Position them to your
preference – just make sure they
are at least a few inches from the
edge.
15
Topstitch all the way around the
top of the bag, with the outside of
the bag facing you. This will also
seal up the gap.
STOCKIST DETAILS
All notions and tools available from
Guthrie & Ghani, www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk
16
Using a hole punch, make four
holes in the belt. I made mine
½" then 1" up from the bottom
edge of the belt, but this may
vary depending on the size of Lauren Guthrie has always loved
your belt/strap. The strap should sewing since she was a child when she
overlap onto the bag by 1½". Make would play with the off cuts of her mum’s
corresponding holes in the bag, projects. Five years ago she decided to
again using the hole punch. turn her hobby and passion into a career
by opening up her own fabric shop and
12
Construct the lining in the same
way as you did the outer bag but
omit the topstitching.
sewing studio, Guthrie & Ghani. While
setting the business up she was a finalist
on the first series of the BBC’s The Great
British Sewing Bee. Lauren is a Super
13
Sew the lining to the outer bag
around the top edge with the RST,
leaving a 5" gap along one of the
Crafter and ambassador for Love Your
Clothes, a campaign that encourages
people to care for, repair, alter and
edges for turning. upcycle clothes to get more from their
wardrobes and reduce the environmental
impact of clothing, loveyourclothes.org.uk
PROJECT Spring Throw
Spring MATERIALS
Throw
• A mixture of flowery/
geometric furnishing
fabrics; the exact
quantities depend on how
many different fabrics you
use. I used 11 fabrics in all
– 50cm x 50cm zigzag
DESIGNED BY ABIGAIL BURY fabric (for triangles); 50cm
x 50cm light flowery fabric
(for triangles); 100cm x
TO CUT 2 Remove template and using the

quilting ruler, mark a ½" seam
allowance around all the shapes.
150cm dark flowery fabric
(for triangles) and 9, 30cm
x 30cm mixed fabric (for
Cardboard (for templates): The inner shape (triangle or squares). All fabrics used
– Cut 1, 27cm x 27cm square square) will be your sewing line are from my own range of
– Cut 1 right angled triangle, 19cm x and the outer corresponding textiles.
19cm x 27cm shape is your cutting line. Cut out
shapes along the outside pen line. • 125cm x 125cm medium
Calico: weight calico for backing
– Cut 1, 125cm x 125cm for backing
• 5m, 50mm bias binding in
coordinating colour
TO SEW
• 16 small buttons – a
1 Having decided on which fabrics

you are using for the triangle
pieces and which for the squares,
mixture of colours to
match your fabric
on the wrong side of your fabrics • Cardboard for templates

draw around the templates. In
total you will need nine squares • Quilting ruler
and thirty-six triangles. For the
triangles I cut twenty from dark
flowery fabric, eight from light
flowery fabric and eight from
zigzag fabric.
GOOD TO KNOW
• Seam allowances are ½" throughout. I use wide seams for furnishing fabrics as
they can have a tendency to fray.
• Finished throw size is approx. 116cm x 116cm.
• Different weights of furnishing fabrics can be used. Although I have made

this throw with a selection of fabrics which are all the same weight, I have
successfully made many of these throws with many different textures and
weights of fabric – just bear in mind not to use too thick a fabric or else your
sewing machine will complain!
• This is a fairly small throw; it can easily be made bigger by adding another row of
blocks or by adding a border.
Spring Throw PROJECT
USE OFFCUTS AND REMNANTS OF FURNISHING FABRICS TO MAKE THIS EYE CATCHING AND
DURABLE THROW. THE LARGE SCALE PATTERN PIECES AND THE TECHNIQUE OF QUILTING
WITH BUTTONS MAKE THIS THROW A QUICK AND EASY TO CONSTRUCT PROJECT.
PROJECT Spring Throw
3 There are nine blocks in this

throw, comprising of one middle
square with four triangles
5
Carry on adding the other three
triangles to make up the first
block. Position each triangle
along the pen line from the start
to the finish. Make sure that the
seams stay flat underneath and
joined to each edge, which then accurately around the central do not fold over on themselves.
becomes a larger square. These square, pin and sew in place. Repeat for remaining two rows.
blocks then make up three rows of Push the previous triangle out
three. Lay your pieces on the floor of the way as you pin and stitch,
and arrange as desired, making ensuring you do not catch it
sure you have an even distribution when sewing on the new triangle.
of colour and pattern. Make a note Remember to only sew on the pen
of this placement, I find it helpful line and not over the ends. You
to take photographs on my phone now have your first block.
to help me remember.
8
Iron the three rows of blocks and
neaten seams by cutting off the
points of the triangles that are
jutting out, this helps to reduce
bulk.
4 Sew the pieces in blocks. Start

sewing with a square and a
9
Stitch the three rows together.
With right sides together, start by
sewing the top row to the middle
triangle right sides together; they row; then stitch the middle row
should both be the same length to the bottom row. Again use lots
when placed together (use the of pins to accurately place the
longer side of the triangle). To rows together, matching up all
match them up accurately put a
pin at the beginning of the pen line
on the top piece and then match
6
Make up the other eight blocks
in the same way. Iron the blocks
on the reverse side, pressing
seams as you go. Sew right the
way across the pen line from start
to finish. Iron seams flat. Your
that to the start of the pen line on each seam open and tucking the patchwork top is complete.
the piece underneath. Pin all along seams underneath one another at
the two pieces. Sew along the pen points where seams converge.
line from start to finish, making
sure you do not over shoot the
line. Secure the start and finish
with a reverse stitch.
7
Referring to your layout, sew the
blocks together starting with the
top row. Sew the left hand block
to the central block and then the
central block to the right hand
block. To do this pin the two
blocks together carefully, with
right sides facing and matching
up all seams. I use a lot of pins to
make sure the seams stay where
they should and to ensure the
pieces are joined accurately. Sew
Spring Throw PROJECT
10 With wrong sides together, lay the

calico backing down and place the
patchwork on top, the calico is
slightly larger than your top. Make
sure all seams of the patchwork
top are flat against the calico,
then pin in place. Baste the top
and backing together. I use large
stitches all over, this keeps the top
and the backing together while
the buttons and bias binding are
being sewn on.
12
Finish with bias binding. I iron out
the bias binding so that it is flat
and then, using the quilting ruler, STOCKIST DETAILS
11
Lay your buttons out on the
patchwork top and arrange as
desired. I put mine at the
mark out a ½" seam allowance
along the entire length of the
binding. This is then sewn around
Furnishing fabrics – Selection by Abigail
Bury, www.abigailbury.com,
intersection points in the the two layers of the throw with tel: 01594 833017
patchwork. Using thread that the right side of the binding
matches the colour of the calico together with the right side of the Calico – WBL Fabrics,
sew the buttons in place. throw. The binding is then folded www.whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk
around to the back of the throw
and hand sewn or machined down Buttons – The Button Company,
with the raw seam turned under. www.buttoncompany.co.uk
Bias Binding – Plush Addict,

www.plushaddict.co.uk
Abigail Bury has been a sewer

and lover of fabrics for years, but since
completing a Textile Design degree
course a couple of years ago as a mature
student, Abigail has taken things to
another level and now has a colourful
and floral interiors collection to her name.
Visit her website www.abigailbury.com
PROJECT Big Top Toy Sack
MATERIALS
Big Top •
•
1m beige linen or cotton
75cm striped fabric
Toy Sack
• 50cm medium weight
iron-on interfacing
• 50cm lightweight iron-on

interfacing
• 80cm pom-pom trim

DESIGNED BY JOSIE DAY
• 80cm-85cm cord or thick
shoelace
TO CUT
See pattern sheet for appliqué templates • Scraps of coloured fabric
and base pattern for appliqué
Linen fabric: • Small amounts of

– Cut 2, 30cm x 77.5cm rectangles for Bondaweb or other fusible
lower section of bag and lining web
– Cut 2, 26cm diameter circles for base
• Vanishing ink pen
Striped fabric:
– Cut 2, 25cm x 77.5cm for upper section
of bag and lining
3 Place the appliqué pieces onto
the linen panel you previously
prepared, using the photos as a
guide and ensuring that they do
Medium weight iron-on interfacing: not go into the seam allowances.
– Cut 1, 28 x 75.5cm Adjust as desired and then fuse
– Cut 1, 24cm diameter circle in place with a warm iron. Mark
balloon strings with disappearing GOOD TO KNOW
Light weight iron-on interfacing: fabric pen or very fine pencil.
– Cut 2, 23cm x 75.5cm • Caution – The bag has a
drawstring closure and is not
suitable for very young children
TO SEW due to the cord being a potential
choking hazard.
1 Place medium weight interfacing

onto the wrong side of one of your • Use 1cm seam allowance
30cm x 77.5cm linen rectangles
and fuse with a warm iron. This
will form the lower section of the
4 Drop your sewing machine feed
dogs and free-motion appliqué
around the pieces to secure in •
throughout.
As my linen was quite heavy

outer bag. Now fuse the 23cm x place and add detailing. Don’t weight I only used interfacing
75.5cm rectangles of light weight worry if your sewing is a bit on the lower bag outer, if your
interfacing to the wrong sides of wobbly as this adds to the overall fabric or linen is light weight use
each of your striped fabric pieces. effect of raw edge appliqué. If the interfacing on linen lining also.
dogs on your machine can’t be My striped fabric was a very
2 Trace the appliqué pattern

pieces onto the paper side of the
fusible web and then iron onto
lowered simply reduce your stitch
length and use an open-toed
appliqué foot.
light polycotton, so I applied
interfacing to both outer and
lining pieces. If your striped fabric
the reverse side of your coloured is heavy weight, consider whether
scraps of fabric. Cut out carefully to omit interfacing altogether as
and mark on any detailing with a it can affect the gathering of the
fine pencil or fabric pen. fabric when using the drawstring
closure.
• Finished size is approx. 24cm x

50cm.
Big Top Toy Sack PROJECT
ROLL UP! ROLL UP! BRING THE FUN OF THE CIRCUS INTO YOUR HOME WITH
THIS FANTASTIC DRAWSTRING BAG. CLEVERLY DESIGNED SO THE TOP
PANEL FORMS THE ROOF OF A BIG TOP TENT, IT IS NICE AND ROOMY AND
WOULD BE PERFECT AS TOY STORAGE OR A P.E. BAG.
PROJECT Big Top Toy Sack
5 Using a zipper foot machine baste

(tack) pom-pom trim to the top of
your appliquéd linen rectangle so
9
Press seam open and then stitch
around gap, creating a rectangle,
this will form the opening for your
12
Slide the lining inside the bag,
with right sides together and side
seams matching. Pin or baste
that the tape is in the centre of the drawstring. top edge adjusting and easing as
1cm seam allowance. necessary. Machine stitch and
turn through to right side through
the turning gap. Press lightly.
6 Using a zipper foot join your

appliquéd linen piece to one of the
striped panels, long sides together 10 Iron pre-cut interfacing to one
of the linen circles, ensuring it is
and right sides facing, then press centred. Then pin to your outer
seam upwards. bag piece, right sides together.
You may need to ease it gently
7 Add a line of topstitching just

above seam line on striped
to fit and either use lots of pins
or hand tack carefully. Stitch and
section. lightly press.
13
Sew two parallel lines of stitching
just above and below the
drawstring opening to creating a
casing for the cord. To keep your
stitching straight mark a line on
your sewing machine, then erase
it with nail polish remover!
8 With right sides facing, sew side

seams together leaving a 2.5cm
gap, 4cm below the top edge.
11 Following the main bag

instructions, stitch up bag lining
but omitting interfacing, appliqué,
pom-pom trim and drawstring
opening. Remember to leave a
10cm turning gap in the side of
the lower linen section.
Big Top Toy Sack PROJECT
14
Thread cord or ribbon through
opening in casing.
Josie Day enjoys sewing of any type but all of her projects feature
raw edge appliqué in one form or another. She absolutely loves this
technique and its ability to look funky and modern or classic and
15
Give the finished bag a final light
press and then using a small
ladder or slip stitch, hand sew the
sophisticated! Her blog www.sewforsoul.blogspot.co.uk is dedicated to
sewing and you can find lots of free tutorials and projects there. She
lives in the North East of England with her extremely patient husband,
turning gap closed. two lovely teenage children and a very naughty cat!
PROJECT Origami Bag
Origami MATERIALS
The printed fabrics used in this
Bag
project are from the Wildlife
collection from Inprint by Jane
Makower Fabrics
• 50cm main outer fabric –

Deer in the Forest, Wildlife 1
DESIGNED BY EMILY LEVEY • 50cm lining fabric – Deer

in the Forest, Wildlife 3
• 50cm Vileseline 279

TO CUT Cotton Mix 80/20 wadding
Main outer fabric: • 15cm x 15cm piece of

– Cut 1, 14" x 42" leather (around 2mm
thickness)
Lining fabric:
– Cut 1, 14" x 42" • 4 double cap rivets, 9mm
x 8mm
Wadding:
– Cut 1, 14" x 42" • Crafters companion, Stick
Leather:
– Cut 1, 4" x 4½"
2 With the right side of the fabric
facing up, fold the right hand
top corner down to the bottom •
& Stay adhesive spray
Rotary cutter
edge, creating a diagonal fold.
Press lightly and be sure to use a • Safety ruler and cutting
TO SEW pressing cloth on the wadding. mat
1 Spray the wrong side of your

outer fabric with the ‘Stick and
Stay’ adhesive according to
•
•
3mm hole punch
Rivet setting tool and

manufacturer’s instructions. Fuse hammer
the wadding to the wrong side of
the fabric.
GOOD TO KNOW
• Fabrics used are 44" wide quilting cotton. It is a good idea to prewash, then iron and lightly starch your fabrics before cutting.
Always use a pressing cloth when ironing the wadding, do not use the iron directly on the wadding.
• Construction seams are ¼" (6mm) unless specified. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to secure
your stitches during the assembly of the bag.
• Finished size of the bag is approx. 15" x 16".
• Read through instructions in full before starting.
• The tough leather handle of this bag will make it comfortable to carry no matter what you load it up with. For a twist why not try
a little quilted fabric handle or perhaps even a crochet or knitted tube.
Origami Bag PROJECT
USING A CLEVER FOLDING TECHNIQUE THIS USEFUL MARKET BAG IS PERFECT FOR
CARRYING ALL SORTS OF SHOPPING. ITS SIMPLE CONSTRUCTION MAKES IT PERFECT
FOR SHOWING OFF BEAUTIFUL PRINTED FABRIC AND IT IS EVEN FULLY REVERSIBLE
MEANING YOU CAN CHOOSE TWO FAVOURITE FABRICS TO SHOW OFF!
PROJECT Origami Bag
3 Now fold the left hand bottom

corner up to the top edge, creating
a second diagonal fold. Press as
8
Repeat steps 2-9 to construct the
lining. Turn lining right way out.
before.
4 There is just one final fold, this 6

Open out the bag so that the
bottom ‘corner’ is lying flat. Think
is marked by the red line in the
photo. Fold along the red marked
line with the right sides facing
of it as rather than having the
right sides of the front and back
of the bag facing, the right sides
9
Slip the lining down inside the
bag, match the raw edges around
the top and pin into place. Sew
together, this will bring your first of the side and bottom of the all the way around the top of the
two folds from step 2 and 3 up bag are facing. You will have one bag leaving a 4"-5" turning gap
into triangles that form the top/ of your fold seams running up in the middle of one edge. When
sides of the bag. the side. Draw a line measuring sewing around, sew up into the
5" across the fabric, this should top corners, stop ¼" from the end
be 2½" up from the point in the and leaving your needle in pivot
bottom corner. the fabric by 45°, then sew down
the new side. When sewing into
the ‘V’ at the bottom centre of the
bag, sew down past the edge by
¼", leave your needle in and pivot
the fabric by 45°, then sew up the
new side.
7
Pin then sew along the marked
line. Trim the corner to ¼" from
the line of stitching. Repeat on the
other side of the bag.
5 Pin the edges of the folds together

where they meet. Sew together
then repeat for the other side of 10 Trim the excess fabric from the
points on the top corners and snip
the bag. into the ‘V’ in the centre of the bag,
taking care not to cut through
your stitching. Before turning
though check that the seams
are complete all around the top
edge, the wadding can mean
sometimes you miss catching all
the layers of fabric.
Origami Bag PROJECT
11
Turn the right way out and press
well, tucking in the raw edge of
the turning gap as you press. Pin
the gap closed and then topstitch
all the way around the bag around
⅛" from the edge to close the
opening.
STOCKIST DETAILS
Fabric – Inprint by Jane Makower
Fabrics, www.makower.co.uk
Wadding – Vlieseline,
12
Using a hole punch and hammer,
make three holes on each of the
short sides of your leather piece.
crafts@stockistenquiries.co.uk,
tel: 01453 883581
These should be placed at ½" in

from the short edge and at ½", 2"
and 3½" along the length. Starting
13
Insert one of the corners of the
top edge of the bag through the
leather tube, pulling it free on the
Leather – Artisan Leather,
www.artisanleather.co.uk
with the centre hole first, insert other side as much as possible. Rivets – Abbey Tops,
the rivet portion with the long Overlap the corner with the other stores.ebay.co.uk/abbeytops
shaft though the leather from top corner by around ¾" and sew
the wrong side. Bring the leather to secure in place. Once sewn you Stick and Stay Adhesive – Crafters
around to form a tube and line can slip the leather tube back into Companion, www.crafterscompanion.co.uk
up the corresponding hole and the centre of the newly created
push it onto the rivet too. Pop the top handle.
remaining rivet section on to the
shaft of the first rivet and secure Emily Levey has a passion for
in place with the setting tool and sewing and loves to share her knowledge
hammer - do this by sliding the and skills, teaching forgotten techniques.
smaller section of the setting She started sewing over 20 years ago
tool inside the leather tube and and has not put her needle down since.
carefully positioning underneath Today she can always be found in her
the rivet. Repeat until all the holes studio, surrounded by fabric, rustling up
have been riveted. a new dress or working on her latest quilt
or pattern. She has had work published in
books, magazines and regularly present
tutorials on Craft Daily TV.
PROJECT Orton Pyjama Bottoms
Orton
Pyjama Bottoms MATERIALS
DESIGNED BY ANEKA TRUMAN • 2.5m (115cm wide) or
1.75m (150cm wide) main
fabric - suitable fabrics
include cotton and cotton
TO CUT blends
See pattern sheet for pattern pieces
• 1.5m, 2cm (¾") wide
Main fabric: ribbon
– Cut 1 pair front (1)
– Cut 1 pair back (2) • 1m, 2.5cm (1") wide
– Cut 1 pair cuff bands (3) elastic
Interfacing:
– Cut 1 interfacing (4) 2
Position each cuff band onto the
bottom of the trouser legs. Place
the leg with the wrong side of the
• 10cm lightweight
interfacing
fabric facing up. Position the cuff

TO SEW band on top of the leg with the
wrong side of the fabric facing up.
1 Start by sewing the legs together

at the outside leg seam (double
notch). Position the front against
Match notches along the bottom
edge. Attaching the cuff band
can be tricky. Pin in place and
the back, right sides together double check that the cuff will fold GOOD TO KNOW
and stitch from the hem up to over the hem towards the front
the waistband.* Press the seam of the trousers. If working with a • Pattern size ranges from 0-6
allowances together towards printed fabric, make sure that the (approx. UK 6-18), ensure you
the back; differentiate the back cuff band is facing the correct measure yourself accurately
pattern piece by a larger curve direction. Stitch along the bottom to achieve the best fit for your
at the crotch. Finish the seam edge using the 1.5cm (⅝") seam shape.
allowances with your choice of allowance.*
overlocker (serger), overcast • Pattern has 1.5cm (⅝") seam
/ zigzag stitch on the sewing allowances and hem allowances
machine or pinking shears.* included.
TIP: Try working with a twin needle

and topstitch the seam
• Mark all notches with your
preferred method.
allowances in place. Stitch on
the right side of the garment, on • Wherever you see the * symbol
the back leg (on top of the seam visit http://bit.ly/2hzQWCe for
allowances) close to the seam video tips and how to tutorials
between the front and back leg.* relating to this project.
Sizing Chart:
Size 0 1 2 3 4 5 6
Waist 63cm/25" 66cm/26" 71cm/28" 77cm/30.5" 84cm/33" 90cm/35.5" 96cm/38"
Hips 89cm/35" 91cm/36" 96.5cm/38" 101.5cm/40" 108cm /42.5" 114cm/45" 119cm/47"
Elastic 35.5cm/14" 38cm/15" 40.5cm/16" 43.2cm/17" 47cm/18½" 49.5cm/19½" 52cm/20½"
Ribbon (Cut 2) 50.8cm/20" 50.8cm/20" 53.3cm/21" 57cm/22½" 60cm/23½" 63.5cm/25" 66cm/26"
Orton Pyjama Bottoms PROJECT
MAKE YOURSELF A PERFECT FITTING PAIR OF PYJAMA BOTTOMS. LEARN THE BASICS OF TROUSER
CONSTRUCTION AS WELL AS SKILLS INCLUDING HOW TO ATTACH A CUFF AND CREATING A
WAISTBAND WITH AN ELASTIC BACK AND TIE FRONT. SEW IN YOUR FAVOURITE COTTON
PRINT AND WEAR AS LOUNGE OR BED WEAR. OPTIONAL SHORT LENGTH INCLUDED.
PROJECT Orton Pyjama Bottoms
3 Press the seam allowances of the

cuff bands and trouser legs open.
Press the top seam allowance of
5 Stitch the inside leg seams from
the hem up to the crotch. Make
sure that the cuff bands match
7
Press the crotch seam allowances
to one side. Finish the edges of the
fabric using your preferred method.
the cuff bands under towards the perfectly. Finish the edges of the Optional – topstitch the seam to
wrong side. Press the cuff band fabric in your preferred method. one side using a twin needle for a
towards the trouser leg. The cuff Press the seam allowances flat and professional finish.
bands will sit on top of the trouser towards the back leg.
legs.
8
At the waistband, press under
the seam allowance to the wrong
side of the fabric. Press the
fabric under again towards the
wrong side along the fold line by
approximately 3cm (1½"). This
creates the waistband channel for
the elastic and ribbon.
6 Attach the crotch seam of the two

legs together. Turn one leg with
the fabric right side facing out and
one leg with the wrong side facing
out. Place the leg with the right
side of the fabric facing out inside
the other leg, so that the right
sides of the fabric are together.
4 Make sure that the cuffs measure

the same width at either end
Match the inside leg seam at the
crotch and the edges of the fabric
together. Pin and stitch following
9
Position the rectangle of
interfacing on the front of the
trousers, on wrong side of the
as these end sections will join the seam allowance. fabric, underneath the crease
together when sewing the inside made by the waistband fold line.
leg seam. Topstitch approximately
5mm (¼") from the bottom edge TIP: Use a clover fork pin to match the
inside leg seams.*
The rectangle should be centred
either side of the crotch seam
of the cuff and the same distance with the top edge sitting close
from the top edge of the cuff. to the folded top edge of the
waistband. Iron interfacing on to
fabric. Mark the two buttonholes,
we positioned ours 2.5cm either
side of the centre seam. The size
of the buttonholes should work
with the ribbon you have chosen.
Orton Pyjama Bottoms PROJECT
10 Complete the buttonholes as

desired, ensuring you only stitch
the front layer of fabric. Cut the
13
Cut two lengths of ribbon (see
size guide) and feed one through
each buttonhole. Take the ribbon
TIP: If you find the sewing machines
struggles to stitch the end of the
ribbon, I recommend that you
buttonhole open using a cutter or past the side seam by 2.5cm (1"). start in the centre and sew out to
un-picker. Trim threads and use The ribbon and elastic will overlap. either end.
fray stopper in required. Pin the ribbon and elastic in place
from the right side of the garment.
11
Fold the waistband back down
and stitch along the top edge,
approximately 5mm (¼") away 14
To secure the elastic and ribbon
stitch from the right side of the
from the edge. Stitch along the garment down the side seam
bottom edge of the waistband, in the ‘ditch’. Stitch through the
the same distance away from width of the waistband. Stitch
the bottom folded edge (5mm). across the gap in the seam at the
Leave a gap on both side seams bottom of the waistband ensuring
measuring a total of 5cm (2"). you meet your previous lines of
stitching; you may need to stretch
the elastic to achieve a neat finish. STOCKIST DETAILS
Pink Flamingos fabric – Fabric Galore
www.fabricsgalore.co.uk
Elastic and white cotton webbing used

for ribbon – William Gee,
www.williamgee.co.uk
12
Cut your elastic to size using the
guide and using a safety pin insert
the elastic into the gap at the
side seam. The elastic should sit
around the back of the waistband,
15
To prevent the elastic from
twisting during washing and wear,
stitch from the right side of the
Aneka Truman owner of Made
To Sew runs sewing classes and
passing the side seam by 2.5cm trousers down the ‘ditch’ of the workshops in Somerset, Oxfordshire
(1") on either side. Pin in position. back seam for the width of the and online. With a background
waistband. Stitch through the in the fashion industry, Aneka is
elastic. I recommend stretching passionate about teaching professional
the elastic before completing dressmaking techniques and designing
this to make sure the elastic is modern, sophisticated patterns. Check
distributed evenly. out the Made To Sew YouTube channel
for an array of free ‘how to’ tutorials as
16
Finish the end of the ribbon with
your preferred method. Turn over
twice and stitch on the sewing
well as videos that specifically relate to
Sewing World projects.
www.madetosew.com
machine. Alternatively, trim at an www.youtube.com/user/madetosew
angle or cut a V shape.
PROJECT Fabric Vegetable Delights
Fabric MATERIALS
Vegetable Delights • 1, A4 sheet green felt –
Merino wool pre-felt
DESIGNED BY DORIANA DRAGHICI • 30cm x 15cm orange

cotton
TO CUT
See pattern sheet for pattern pieces 2
Place the two body pieces RST,
align pleats to make a cross and
machine sew all the way around,
• 25cm x 15cm dark purple
cotton
Orange cotton: using a 5mm seam allowance. Do • 40cm x 40cm red cotton
– Cut 1 pair summer squash bodies (1) not stitch across the top straight
edge, leave this open for turning • 40cm x 30cm brown
Purple cotton: and stuffing. cotton
– Cut 1 pair aubergine bodies (3)
Red cotton:
– Cut 3 pairs radish body 1 (6)
3
Clip curves, being very careful not
to cut the seam line.
•
•
15cm x 15cm white cotton
20cm grey and white soft

– Cut 18 tomato bodies (9)
White cotton:
4
Turn the squash right side out
through the open gap and stuff
with polyester fibrefill until plump. •
cotton baker’s twine
White and brown

– Cut 3 pairs radish body 2 (7) Use the fibre stuffing tool to help. embroidery thread
Brown cotton:
– Cut 8 potato bodies – use a different
tone for each potato, 4 pieces each (12)
5
At the open top, fold two sides of
the fabric down and secure stich
by hand. Then fold the remaining
•
•
Long embroidery needle
Self-extinguishing marker
two sides and repeat. Don’t worry to trace your patterns –
Green felt: too much about creating a nice Prym trick marker
– Cut 1 summer squash stalk (2) neat stitch as this will be covered
– Cut 1 aubergine leaf (4) by the stalk. • 1 small bag of carded
– Cut 1 aubergine stalk (5) polyester fibre
– Cut 6 radish leafs (8)
– Cut 3 tomato leafs (10) • Fibre stuffing tool –
– Cut 3 tomato stalks (11) Mosquito forceps (optional)
TO SEW
Summer Squash
1 With RST and following the

markings on the pattern, machine
sew the dart on each body part
GOOD TO KNOW
and back tack just a stitch or two • Caution - Younger children should be supervised when playing with these toys
to secure the threads at beginning and omit the bakers twine which could pose a choking hazard.
and end.
• Seam allowances are 5mm unless otherwise specified.
• Use polka dot materials for a more fun and colourful set of veggies.
• Want to add some carrots to your veggie collection? Take a look at the Easter
Bunny Garland project featured in the March issue of Sewing World for pattern
and full instructions.
• Use the squash pattern and instructions to make a courgette, too.
Fabric Vegetable Delights PROJECT
MAKING PRETEND FOOD WITH YOUR LITTLE ONES CAN BE VERY FUN INDEED. WITH
THESE CUTE FABRIC VEGETABLES, YOU CAN TEACH THEM THE IMPORTANCE OF EATING
WELL AND ALSO DEMONSTRATE WHERE THEIR FOOD COMES FROM. SO WHAT SHALL WE
BE TODAY? A FARMER, A FRUIT AND VEG SELLER OR A CHEF PERHAPS?
PROJECT Fabric Vegetable Delights
6 Wrap the squash stalk around

the top of the body, overlapping
the ends slightly and creating a
9 To make the stalk, roll the green
felt to create a cylinder and
hand sew in place with small
14
Using a running stitch, hand sew
around the open top of the radish
but don’t pull or cut the thread yet.
cylinder. Hand sew in place with running stitches. Sew the stalk Put two leaves inside the opening,
a running stitch. Pinch the top of in the middle of the leaf using a pull the thread and stitch several
the cylinder together and hand whipstitch. It may help to use a times taking care to catch each of
stitch in place using a series of couple of pins to hold the stalk in the leaf stalks. Pull the thread to
stabbing stitches, knot to hold. place as you sew. tighten the opening as much as
possible and knot to secure.
Radish
10 With RST, place a white and

red radish body part together,
matching them at the widest 15
To make the radish roots use the
white embroidery thread. Without
parts. Machine stitch together knotting the end, pull the thread
and press seams. through the tip of the radish, cut
the thread leaving 2cm on both
sides and make a knot. Repeat
once more so you have four roots.
Aubergine
7 The aubergine is created in a

similar manner as the summer
squash, repeat steps 1-6 for the
main body. 11 RST and leaving the top straight
edge unstitched for turning and
stuffing, machine sew around the
8 Place the aubergine leaf over the

top of the body (the narrow end).
pieced radish bodies using a 5mm
seam.
Use a running stitch to hand stitch
in place, making sure you stitch
on the outer edge of the leaf and 12 Turn and stuff the radish with
polyester fibrefill until soft and
16
Repeat steps 10-15 to make three
radishes, then tie them together in
a bunch using the cotton baker’s
secure all three points to the body. plump. grey twine.
13 To prepare the leaf, hand sew the

lower stalk edges together; do this
for both leaves.
Fabric Vegetable Delights PROJECT
Tomato
17 With RST, place two sections of

the tomato body together and
20 Repeat step 9 to make and attach
the stalk. Make three tomatoes in
total.
23 Sew up the open edge with a slip
stitch. Make two potatoes.
begin to sew the first side, starting

about 1cm down from the top and
finish 5mm before the bottom.
Repeat this for each section of
the tomato until all the body sides
have been sewn together, six in
total. Turn right side out through
the gap.
Potato
21 Stitch all four body parts together

like you did for the tomato but
don’t leave a 1cm open on top
of each side, just sew it with the
normal 5mm allowance and leave
a 2cm opening gap on one side. It
should look like a rugby ball.
STOCKIST DETAILS
Fabrics – Higgs & Higgs,
www.higgsandhiggs.com
Felt and carder polyester fibre –

World of Wool, www.worldofwool.co.uk
Soft cotton bakers twine –
18 Stuff tomato with polyester

fibrefill until plump, this end will be
the top of the tomato. 22 Turn the potato right side out
and stuff with fibrefill. Thread
Vivid Handmade, www.vividwrap.com
Fibre stuffing tool – Medentra Mosquito

an embroidery needle with light Forceps Straight Micro, Medentra,
brown embroidery floss, insert www.amazon.co.uk
needle into the opening gap and
pull the knot into the fibrefill
centre. Make two or three small
stab stitches where your thread
came out and pull thread tight Doriana Draghici is a self-taught
to make the first dimple. Repeat maker specialising in toys and dolls.
this process to make as many Originally from Romania, she is now
dimples as you want. Knot thread based in Leamington Spa where she runs
to secure the last one and poke her own studio, here she creates all her
19 Attach the tomato leaf to the

top of the body, positioning it so
that it covers the hole used for
the needle out from the open edge
of the potato.
Doricica toys and dolls. She is passionate
about all crafty and homemade things
and intends to learn pottery one day.
stuffing. Use small hand running When she’s not sewing, Doriana enjoys
stitches to secure the leaf all the cooking and baking for her husband and
way around the star shaped leaf. their two little boys. Learn more about
Doriana’s work at: www.doricica.com and
www.instagram.com/doricicatoys
PROJECT Washing Day Laundry Set
Washing Day Peg Bag:

MATERIALS
Laundry Set •
•
50cm main fabric –
Cotton print
Scraps of cotton fabric for

appliqué
DESIGNED BY MARY HALL • Bondaweb
• Child’s coat hanger

approx. 30cm
TO SEW
See pattern sheet for templates • Embroidery thread in an
assortment of colours –
Peg Bag we used greens, yellow
1 Draw around the top of the coat

hanger onto the wrong side of the
fabric, no need to draw around the
and pink
Laundry Bag:
hook. Adding 1cm either side of
the hanger and 36cm from the top • 60cm main fabric (145cm
edge of the hanger to the bottom,
mark out this rectangle shape.
Repeat, this time measuring 40cm
4 Take the small clothes templates
(see pattern sheet) and various
scraps of fabric big enough for •
wide) – Cotton print
58cm medium weight

from the top of the coat hanger to each item. Cut pieces of fusible lining (139cm wide)
the bottom. Cut out both pieces. web slightly smaller than the
fabric scraps and place the glue • Scraps of cotton fabric for
side against the wrong side of the appliqué
fabric. Iron.
• Fusible web
• 1.5m cord
2 Take the longer piece and cut

across 23cm from the bottom to
create two front pieces.
GOOD TO KNOW
• Fusible web is used for the appliqué in this project. Be sure not to apply iron
directly onto the fusible web as it will stick to your iron. To avoid this you can
sandwich the fabric you are bonding between two sheets of greaseproof paper
cut much larger than the fabric and fusible web you are working on.
• This project uses free hand machine embroidery. For this technique use an
embroidery foot and drop the feed dogs on your sewing machine. Slowly move
the fabric around to control the stitching. If you are new to this process, practice
3 Take the bottom front piece and

stitch a slightly curved black line
approximately one third from the •
on a piece of scrap fabric first.
Finished peg bag size is approx. 32cm x 30cm.

top for the washing line.
• Finished laundry bag size is approx. 68cm x 54cm.
Washing Day Laundry Set PROJECT
BRIGHTEN UP YOUR WASHING DAY WITH THIS LAUNDRY SET. WITH A MATCHING
LAUNDRY AND PEG BAG FEATURING PRETTY APPLIQUÉ, HANGING OUT
YOUR WASHING WILL BECOME A BREEZE.
PROJECT Washing Day Laundry Set
5 Use the templates to cut out the

clothes from the fabric that you have
ironed fusible web onto. Peel away
TIP:
I followed the line of the gingham
fabric but you might find it helpful
to draw a guide line using chalk
9
To hem the opening of the peg
bag, take the front bottom piece
and fold 1cm of the top edge
the paper backing from the fusible or a non-permeant fabric pen. Use towards the back and iron. Fold
web and line the clothes along the an embroidery hoop when doing over again by 1cm, iron and pin.
washing line. Iron in place. your hand embroidery. Repeat with the lower edge of the
front top piece. Stitch along both
hems.
6 Using free hand machine

embroidery, stitch around the
8 To create the French knot flowers,
clothes, adding the details such
as the neck opening and trouser
zip. If you don’t feel confident
use pink and yellow embroidery
thread and pull the needle through
the fabric in the desired position.
10 To stitch all peg bag pieces
together, line up the front pieces
with the back pieces, right sides
doing this by eye, trace the details Holding the thread taut with the together and pin. Line up the coat
on first using carbon paper or a opposite hand to the needle, place hanger with the curved edge and
disappearing pen. To stitch the your needle in front of the thread mark a gap for the hanger hook,
pegs, use free hand machine and wrap it around the needle twice. you will need to ensure this gap
embroidery and brown thread to Still holding the thread taut, insert is not sewn. Start from one side
stitch small V shapes on top of the needle just next to where the of the gap, using a 1cm seam
the clothes. thread was originally pulled through allowance, stitch all the way
and pull the needle through the around to the other side of the
back to form a French knot. Repeat gap. Pivot at corners.
at random points along the green
stems.
7 To hand stitch the flowers along

the bottom use green embroidery
threads to stitch simple lines
for the stems. I placed mine
approximately 3cm from the lower
edge and used varying numbers
of strands to create more interest.
Washing Day Laundry Set PROJECT
11 Turn the peg bag right way out

and iron. Pin either side of the
opening together and stitch a
15
Fold the fabric in half, this time
right sides together and pin along
both sides. Measure 7cm from the
line approximately 2cm on both top of the bag along one of the
sides to stop the opening from sides, to leave a gap for the cord.
gaping, backstitch several times Mark this point with a pin or a
to provide extra strength. pencil mark. Sew along both sides
using, a 1cm seam allowance,
ensuring not to sew passed the
7cm mark.
19 Tie the end of the cord to a safety

pin and thread it through one of
the gaps at the opening of the
bag, all the way through to the
other side. Tie the ends in a knot
to secure the cord.
16
Fold the top edge of the opening
over by 1cm, iron and fold over
another 3cm and iron.
12 Insert the coat hanger through the

gap left at the top by inserting it
from the inside of the peg bag. STOCKIST DETAILS
Main fabric – Material Magic,
Laundry Bag:
www.materialmagic.co.uk
13 With wrong sides together, fold

the fabric in half bringing the short
edges together and iron. Open the
17
Fold the lining in half, pin the sides
and stitch both sides using a 1cm
seam allowance, turn through.
Lining – Fabric Guild,
www.fabricguild.co.uk
fabric out again and repeat the Keeping the main piece of the Cord – Button Boutique,
washing line steps from the peg laundry bag inside out, put it www.buttonboutiqueleicester.co.uk
bag (steps 3-6), starting a third of inside the lining and line it up.
the way down on side of the folded Bondaweb – Boyes, www.boyes.co.uk
fabric this time and using the large
templates (see pattern sheet).
Mary Hall is a textile designer/maker

with a stitch obsession. While studying
Design Crafts at University, where
she gained a First Class Honours, she
discovered her love for every day, familiar
objects and developed her illustrative
18
Pin the lining under the folded top
of the main bag. Stitch all the way
style. See more of Mary’s work at
www.maryhalltextiles.co.uk
14 Fold both edges of the longer sides

over 1cm. Iron and pin. Straight
stitch along the centre of the folded
around close to the bottom edge.
Turn the bag the right way around
and iron.
edge. This will keep the seam flat.
PROJECT Monkey Business Boys Twin Piece
Monkey Business MATERIALS

Boys Twin Piece Fabrics used in this project are
from the Out of Africa fabric
collection from Inprint by Jane
Makower fabrics
DESIGNED BY GEMMA GOODE
• 1.5m main fabric, 112cm
wide – Monkeys in the
Forest, blue cotton
TO CUT TO SEW
See pattern sheet for pattern pieces • 5m contrast fabric, 112cm
Jacket wide – Monkeys in the
Main fabric:
– Cut 1 pair jacket backs (1)
– Cut 1 pair jacket sleeves (2)
1 With right sides together, pin
and machine the back seam
and shoulder seams together. •
Forest, yellow cotton
1.5m lining fabric,112cm

– Cut 1 jacket right side front (3) Press seams open and trim loose wide – blue cotton
– Cut 1 jacket left side front (4) threads as you go.
– Cut 1 pair shorts (9) • 42cm x 13cm approx. light
– Cut 1 shorts pocket on fold (10) weight sew on interfacing
Lining: • 4 buttons for trim

– Cut 1 pair jacket backs (1)
– Cut 1 pair jacket sleeves (2) • 2 poppers/snap fasteners
– Cut 1 jacket right side front (3) 1 large, 1 small
– Cut 1 jacket left side front (4)
– Cut 1 pair shorts (9) • 48cm, 2cm wide elastic
(adjust if needed)
Contrast fabric:
– Cut 1 pair jacket sleeve trims (5) • Matching thread
– Cut 1 jacket front trim for left front (6)
– Cut 1 pair shorts trim (11) • Vanishing marker pen
Interfacing: • Safety pin

– Cut 1 jacket left front facing (7)
– Cut 1 jacket right front facing (8)
GOOD TO KNOW
• 1.3cm seam allowance used throughout unless stated • If using a one-way fabric, remember to position your
otherwise. pattern pieces in one direction, placing carefully before
cutting out.
• Suitable for age 3-4 years approx.
• Cotton fabric is ideal for this item as it is lovely and cool to
• Finished jacket measurements – back of neck to hemline, wear.
33.5cm, chest measurement 69cm approx.
• Transfer all marking on the pattern to your fabric.
• Finished shorts measurements – waist measurement
54cm – 60cm approx.,length from side to hemline 35cm.
Monkey Business Boys Twin Piece PROJECT
THIS FULLY LINED TWO-PIECE TOP AND SHORTS HAS BEEN MADE USING THE FABULOUSLY
FUN, MONKEY IN THE FOREST FABRIC FROM INPRINT BY JANE MAKOWER FABRICS.
PERFECT FOR LITTLE BOYS IT INCLUDES A LOOSE STYLE BOX JACKET WITH SHORT SLEEVES
AND PAIR OF SHORTS WITH AN ELASTICATED WAIST AND A DEEP HEMLINE POCKET.
2 With right sides together, pin each

sleeve head to an armhole and
tack in place. This may take a little
time but be patient the sleeve will
fit, machine sew. Clip armhole
curves, being careful not to cut
the machine thread. Trim seam
back by half, neaten the raw edge
with an overlocker or use a zigzag
stitch. Press.
5
Repeat steps 1-3 for the lining
but add the interfacing to the two
fronts, remembering there is a left
and right.
3 With right sides together pin and

machine side seams, stitching
from cuff edge to hem.
4 Add contrast trim to the left side

of jacket front edge. This trim is a
little big at this stage, this will be
trimmed back later. Fold strip in
half lengthways with the wrong
sides together, press to form a
fold line. Open up the strip and
place one raw edge on jacket raw
edge front, pin and machine on
fold line. Fold and press back to
the edge. Trim back the excess
6
Put the jacket and lining together,
with right sides facing. Pin
around the neck edge and fronts
contrast fabric where needed. only, matching seams together.
Leaving the hem and sleeves
open, tack and machine in place.
Clip seams and trim if necessary.
Turn through to right side and
press.
Monkey Business Boys Twin Piece PROJECT
7
Making the cuffs. With right sides
facing, fold each sleeve trim in half
matching the two short edges, pin
10 To hem the jacket, turn main
fabric and lining fabric under by
1cm, facing each other and
13 With right sides together, fold
pocket in half on fold line and
machine sew down the sides.
and machine together to make a enclosing the raw edges. Pin and Trim corners and turn right side
circle. Press seams open. Turn one tack in place. Topstitch a out, press. Topstitch two rows
of the raw edges under by 1cm to continuous machine line around along the top of the pocket.
form a hem, press. the bottom hemline of the jacket,
up the right side front and around
neckline, stopping at the contrast
trim. Press.
11 Attach poppers to the underside

of neck flaps, add button detail.
8
With right sides facing, pin and
machine the raw edge of each
cuff to the sleeve edges, matching
seams. 14 Position pocket on shorts,
following the placement lines on
the pattern and placing the raw
edge of the pocket flush with the
hemline. Pin and machine sides in
place.
Shorts
12 With the main fabric right sides

facing, pin and machine the front
and back seams together along
9
Turn cuff inside sleeve leaving
a 1.3cm trim, pin to hold. Turn
jacket inside out, reposition the
the curve, leave the leg seams
open at this stage. Trim seams
back slightly and clip curves,
pins, hand sew with a slip stitch neaten seams.
just catching the lining fabric.
15 Turn shorts to wrong side, pin and

machine leg seams together.
16 Repeat steps 12 -15 for the lining

fabric, omitting the pocket.
17 Put the completed shorts and

lining together, with the wrong
sides facing. Turn waistband
down by 4cm, neaten raw edge
and then topstitch close to the
edge to hold waistband in place.
18 Working down from the waistband

edge, machine a casing 3.5cm
wide, leaving a 5cm opening around
the back seam for threading the
elastic. Using a safety pin, thread
the elastic through the casing,
overlap the ends and secure with a
machine stitch. Machine stitch the
opening closed.
19 Attach trim to shorts in the same

manner as you did for the cuffs on
jacket (steps 7-9). Add button
detail to pocket. Press finished
garment.
STOCKIST DETAILS Gemma Goode has been sewing

since she was a little girl, inspired by
Monkey in the Forest fabrics – her mother who was a professional
Inprint by Jane Makower, to find your seamstress. She loves to share her
local stockist visit, makower.co.uk ideas with others and she has set up a
shop on Etsy GemsWeddingCreations,
Buttons, interfacing & lining fabric – making handmade bridal accessories.
Doughty, www.doughtysonline.co.uk You can also find her on Facebook,
GemsCreations Hereford.
Coming next month...
June issue on sale

Friday 19th May 2017
Projects:
• Harley Tunic Dress
• Wildflower
Embroidery Hoop
• Little Girls Field Mice
Dress
• Gents Utilitarian
Apron
• Baby Shoes
• Trick Shot Camera
Bag
• Fabric Frame
• Bicycle Panniers
• Picnic Chair Cushions
Plus…
We visit Hand & Lock,
Explore pleats and folds,
Mrs Bowden’s dressmaking tips
and more!
Welcome Summer!
Button up blouse
50 www.sewingworldmagazine.com *Contents may vary due to unforeseen circumstances
s ’t
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Fresh new look next month!
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FREE
Harley
Tunic Dress
pattern!
• Inspirational sewing projects

• Beautiful new style layouts
• Clear, step-by-step tutorials
Pick up the June issue,

on-sale 19th May 2017
dressmaking / embroidery / appliqué / patchwork
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FEATURE Entangled: Threads & Making Review
Entangled: Threads & Making Review

WRITTEN BY DEBORAH NASH
Entangled: Threads & Making is a major

exhibition that brings together artists from
different generations and cultures who challenge
established categories of craft, design and fine art,
and who share a fascination with the handmade
and the processes of making itself. Currently on
display at Turner Contemporary in Margate until
7th May 2017, Deborah Nash shares her thoughts
Anna Ray, Margate Knot
on this engaging show.
From a distance, The Turner

Contemporary in Margate is like a white
paper cut-out on the arm of the harbour.
The gallery is almost luminous on this first
day of spring with the sea licking the bay’s
flawless sands. It’s a fairly new addition to
the town (2011) and its current exhibition,
Entangled: Threads & Making, reflects the
programming of many public galleries
today that are displaying more work
by women, ethnic groups, international
artists and art that doesn’t fit neatly into
the categories of painting, sculpture, print,
art or craft. In this exhibition over forty
women artists from around the world are
exhibited who hand make using thread –
and thread is the unifying element of this
rainbow of a show.
Louise Bourgeois, HAND, © The Easton Foundation/ VAGA, New York/DACS, London 2016
There is weaving, tapestry, embroidery,
stitching, soft sculptures, knitting,
knotting, appliqué, collage, wrapping,
cutting and unraveling. Traditional
techniques combine with modern
day materials and modern computer
technologies are used with natural and
traditional materials. The hanging reflects
this dynamism: some pieces are framed
like pictures for the wall or suspended
from the ceiling; some are in vitrines, or on
plinths of different heights or heaped on
the floor or hover and vacillate above an
electric fan. For anyone who uses textiles
Hannah Ryggen, 6th Oktober, 1942, 1943, ©DACS 2016 as a medium the exhibition is a must-see.
Entangled: Threads & Making Review FEATURE
The curator Karen Wright visited

artists’ studios for her column in The
Independent and states that it was the
interest generated from these visits,
particularly in hand-made, less industrial
scale pieces, that birthed the idea. It
is an all-female line-up, though Karen
is at pains to emphasise that quality
informed her choices. She quotes Eva
Hesse, who said that excellence has no
sex. “This is absolutely true of all the
artists I have selected for Entangled:
Threads & Making,” Karen says. “The
works clearly show the impression of the
hand. Regardless of whether the artists
are female or male, they are works of
excellence.”
Inside the gallery there are floor-to-ceiling

windows with a hypnotic pull towards
beach, sea and sky – ‘the loveliest in
Europe’ according to the town’s most
illustrious visitor, JMW Turner. I turn my
back on this beauty, and walk upstairs to
the first floor. Here ‘Margate Knot’ stretches Ann Cathrin November Høibo, Untitled (Diptych) Photo: Vegard Kleven
the length of a wall and is made of 2,000
brightly coloured earbud shapes twisted
into knots. “I have always thought of
textiles as three dimensional,” explains the
artist Anna Ray. “My work is driven by the
language of fibre: stitches, ends, warps,
loops, seams and knots”. “The original
concept was to create an artwork that
has no specific focal point,” she continues.
“Instead the entire surface holds the
viewer’s gaze.” ‘Margate Knot’ was inspired
by the children’s game of pick-up sticks
and it retains that sense of playfulness and
coming together as Anna employed local
women to help make the piece.
Sharing the space is an over-sized

ceramic crab wrapped in white lace and
three Roma blankets cut up and sewn into
robes. The ensemble sets the tone of the
show: each work is distinct and individual;
this may be art made by women, but it is
far from tribal. The sisterhood has split
into multiple family trees.
As I walk through the doors I spot a

Louise Bourgeois. “She’s everywhere,”
I hear someone say. “That’s the fourth
Louise Bourgeois I’ve seen this year.”
Caroline Achaintre Bernadette
FEATURE Entangled: Threads & Making Review
Louise Bourgeois was born in Paris in 1911 and died in New York
in 2010 at the age of 98. She worked up to the week she died, so
of course her output was prodigious. She was the daughter of
tapestry restorers and very early on she was employed drawing
in the missing parts on canvas for the weavers. She said, “I
became an expert at drawing feet … everybody thought my feet
were wonderful, the feet I restored.” But it is her fabric sculpture
of a red patched stitched hand that unnerves you at the entrance
to the second gallery. It rests poised in its glass cell, like it’s in
Victor Frankenstein’s laboratory; at any moment you can imagine
him exclaiming “It’s alive!”
Some of my favourite sewn works are here. ‘Horse Hair Column’

by German artist Christiane Löhr is as delicate as gossamer
and as precise as a needle and as difficult to photograph as
moonshine. The work, made from hair collected from stables
in Margate, consists of a ring of needles embedded in the floor,
which is repeated on the ceiling above. The artist threaded
single horsehairs through the ceiling’s needles, weighting
them so they dropped down, lengthening each hair by knotting
another to it until it reached the floor where it is anchored on its
corresponding needle. “For me, every hair was like a kind of jewel,
and it began like that,” says Christiane. “I began to keep the hair
then I began to study art.” The gallery assistants enthusiastically
recount the story of how the artist’s interest in horses grew after
winning a horse in a game of local bingo at the age of eighteen.
Later, Christiane studied art under Jannis Kounellis, who was well
known for his performances with horses.
Another beautiful piece by Christiane are arrangements of grass so

they resemble miniature fairy forests. Some are in dense clusters;
some are arched over to form trembling shelters and a foot away
Installation view. Laura Ford, Penguins, 2012 and
there are grasses that together resemble an aquatic hydra. Paula Anziché, Natural Fibres, 2016.
Phyllida Barlow, untitled: broken shelf 2015 Photo: Alex Delfanne
Entangled: Threads & Making Review FEATURE
Close to ‘Horse Hair Column’

hangs a tapestry by the Swedish-
born Norwegian artist Hannah
Ryggen, ‘6 Oktopber 1942’.
Hannah was courageous and
principled, qualities that were
put to the test when the Nazis
invaded Norway in 1939. Under
occupation, there were many
instances of brutality, including
the shooting of ten political
prisoners in a forest outside
Trøndelag. Hannah’s tapestry is
a narrative depicting the death of
one of them, the theatre director Judith Scott, assemblage de fils de laine, de tissus sur ubne boite de
carton. Courtesy Collection de L’art Brut Lausanne, Suisse.
Henry Gleditsch. It has all the
energy and outrage of Picasso’s
‘Guernica’ and the dream-like
quality of a Surrealist painting,
told in vegetable-dyed threads
on a loom more than seventy Sonia Gomes, Untitled
years ago. Despite her straitened
circumstances, Hannah never sold her monumental tapestries to
private buyers, regarding them as public statements that should
be hung in a public gallery to be experienced by everyone. This is
the first time ‘6 Oktopber 1942’ has been exhibited in the UK.
Karla Black, What To Ask Of Others Photo: ©Dario Lasa
Hannah Ryggen inspired other Norwegian artists, such as Ann
Cathrin November Høibo, whose two weavings here were made If Paola’s ‘Natural Fibres’ is light and wafting, Laura Ford’s
in response to her compatriot. Ann weaves on the reverse side ‘Penguins’ (2012), hunched in a corner, are dark and still.
so that she only knows what the work looks like at the end of the Laura describes her sculptures as dressed as people dressed
process when it is cut from the loom and turned over. The curator as animals. At first glance, her group of child-sized grubby
notes: “It is no coincidence that there are so many Nordic artists penguins with plimsolled feet make a comic encounter, but give
in this exhibition. Maybe it is the darkness and cold that leads to them time and their diminutive stature and clownish bodies
an acceptance of time-consuming, repetitive meditation. Perhaps soon begin to instill a sense of unease. Who are they? What are
it is fuelled by the existing weaving traditions in places such as they afraid of? What will they do? They look penned in by the
Trondheim where Hannah Ryggen lived.” white line on the gallery floor, and their shadows creep up the
walls. ‘Penguins’ is a haunting image to carry out into the gaiety
I am also struck by how many of the artists have interesting of Margate sunshine.
stories to tell: Louise Bourgeois, Hannah Ryggen, Eva Hesse,
Sidsel Paaske, Judith Scott all have or had fascinating lives,
perhaps because being female augmented the struggle and
difficulties of being creative. FURTHER INFORMATION
In the final room are two works that have very different child-like Entangled: Threads & Making will be on display at Turner
qualities; the first by Paola Anziché are a collection of knitted Contemporary, Margate until 7th May 2017. For more
stout bell shapes and long stocking-like spires that hang on information about this exhibition visit
cords from the ceiling. On the ground are bean bags inviting www.turnercontemporary.org
you to lie down and watch as the chenille, mohair, alpaca, hemp,
cotton, jute, wool, twine, raffia, paper, grass and string vessels Unless stated otherwise images are courtesy of Turner Contemporary,
swing and sway above you. It’s delightful listening to children Photos: Stephen White
respond to what they can see as they try pushing their heads
into the lower structures as if they are hats. “There’s a bee hive,”
one says; “That one looks like a jellyfish,” points someone else,
while a third tells his mum that it’s really a galaxy.
TECHNIQUE Mrs Bowden’s Top Tips
MRS BOWDEN’S
MRS BOWDEN’S TOP
TOP TIPS
TIPS
WITH AMANDA BOWDEN
Tip # 6 – Inserting a
puffed sleeve
Continuing with our series of mastering basic
owden
dressmaking techniques, this time we are looking Amanda B
at how to insert a puffed sleeve.
The variety in sleeve shapes and styles is inspiring –

designers can add interest to the head of the sleeve by using
tucks, gathers, pleats and darts. Each one of these requires
a slightly different treatment to produce a sleeve that looks
really pleasing to the eye.
Mrs Bowden’s Top Tips TECHNIQUE
So, what is a puffed sleeve…? The head together, press the seam open. You are
of this sleeve style is extended up and now going to insert the sleeve into the
has extra fullness put into the pattern armhole. Treat the sleeve like a tube
to create a ‘puff’ at the head. You will that’s fitting into the ‘ring’ of the armhole.
therefore have extra fabric to fit into the
armhole. This time we will look at how to
deal with creating this type of sleeve; how
to gather correctly using the train track
technique and how to distribute gathers
evenly in the areas that you want them.
We are going to be using an extended

stitch length and a double row of
stitching to help us gather the sleeve.
Set your machine to the longest stitch
length and starting at the tailor tack on
the front of the sleeve, sew the sleeve With right sides together, sew the side
head and stop at the back tailor tack with seams and shoulder seams of the
a 5mm seam allowance. Make sure you bodice. Press the seams open.
don’t backstitch and leave nice long tails
(useful for pulling later on).
The pattern helps you know how much

you have to fit in to the sleeve by marking
where the fabric is to be gathered. This
is usually indicated by small circles and
it is helpful to transfer these marks to
your fabric by using tailor tacks or a
fabric marker. The gathering usually
starts about a third away from the head
of the sleeve on the front and back so
the puff appears at the top of the sleeve
– otherwise it would look very wrinkly Match the underarm seam of the sleeve
under the arm! with the side seam of the bodice and pin
Repeat this step but the second time, from the inside of the garment with the
sew 2cm from the edge of the fabric. sleeve facing you.
The sewing lines should look a little like
tramlines.
So, check you have transferred the head

of sleeve, forward and back notches
and where the gathers have to start and Match and pin the single notch on
finish. the front sleeve to the corresponding
Reset your machine to a normal stitch point on the bodice. Match and pin the
length (2.5/3cm) and sew your underarm double notch on the back sleeve to the
seam with the right sides of the sleeves corresponding point on the bodice.
TECHNIQUE Mrs Bowden’s Top Tips
Amanda Bowden runs the fantastic

Felixstowe Sewing School, a crafty
and sewing haven in the Suffolk
seaside town of Felixstowe. Her
small and very friendly sewing
school offers classes, and lessons
for the beginner and novice sewer,
as well as a series of workshops for
the more experienced seamstress,
Pin the sleeve head to the shoulder line. The tramlines you created are either side dressmaker or fabric and textile
You will notice you have excess fabric of the stitching line (5mm and 2cm). You lover – all topped off with a vintage
where you have sewn your tramlines. can now stitch along the seam allowance vibe and homemade cakes.
of 1.5cm where the gathers are at their www.felixstowesewingschool.co.uk
flattest. Just check as you sew, that
the sleeve fabric isn’t creeping over the
edge of the bodice fabric, this shouldn’t
happen if you have pinned and tacked
vigorously!
Gently pull one set of thread tails to

create gathers along the tramline. Keep
pulling until the sleeve fabric is the same
size as the armhole section. Wrap one
set of tails of the gathering stitches
around the pin at the start of the gathers
to secure the thread. Repeat this on the Remove the tacking and admire the
other side of the sleeve head. puffiness of your sleeve!
Next time
Mrs Bowden will be
looking at attaching
a facing to a curve
as is often used
around an armhole of a
sleeveless top.
You will see there may be some uneven
bunching of fabric at certain points.
Gently pull the fabric to rearrange the
gathers so it looks even. Pin along this
line to secure the fabric and tack into
position.
WWW.TRENDPATTERNS.CO.UK
@trend_patterns
FEATURE Pattern Review
Pattern Review
Butterick 6351 Pattern
WRITTEN BY MARIA
FROM THE MINERVA CRAFTS BLOGGER NETWORK
Maria from the How Good is That blog, enjoys pushing

the boundaries when she sews. We asked Maria to try
out Butterick 6351 pattern, here’s what she thought…
Buying patterns that are versatile makes me feel like I’m

getting value for money. Butterick 6351 provides value
with two dress styles and a jumpsuit. This pattern is a bit
challenging and I’ll walk you through its challenges.
The positives are the two dress styles and a jumpsuit, as well
as the open overlay back. This is an ‘on trend’ feature that is
nice to have. These styles offer pockets, pleats and gathers
for summer style fabrics. I’ve made this pattern four times
(two dresses and two jumpsuits) and this review is about the
second dress style I made.
I decided to make view A with the straight skirt, as I’m not the
right height to wear view C or B. To start with I made some
initial style adjustments. Shoulder placement is one of the
first adjustments I do. My shoulders are forward sloping, so
on the bodice pattern pieces I removed 2cm length from the more flattering for me. So I created a V-neckline on the paper
front shoulder seam height and extended the height of the pattern, the new neckline is 11cm lower than the pattern’s
back shoulder seam. As this style has a sleeveless bodice, neckline. The basic round neckline works fine if you haven’t
there’s always the likelihood the armholes are a bit too wide. redrafted a neckline before.
Once I made the test version of this dress, I took out just
under 2cm from the back bodice armhole. There was some This pattern offers A/B, C and D cups. I chose the C cup as
gaping on the test dress. On the final dress, I eliminated this I can vary from a B to C cup from time to time. The other
by folding out the excess, and still have room to move my reason I chose the C cup is because our Australian Summers
arms. can be brutally hot and humid so having more air flow in
the bodice is worthwhile. However, I did make the minor
When it comes to a choice between a basic round neckline adjustment of shortening the bust dart by 2cm in length so it
or redrafting a V-neckline, I prefer a V-neckline, as they are now matches my bust shape.
Pattern Review FEATURE
From time to time, commercial patterns are a touch too long. This dress uses Minerva Crafts ‘Floral & Birds Print Cotton
I removed 1.5cm at the waist so the bodice sat at my natural Dress Fabric Black on Beige’. The bodice is lined with a
waistline. matching lining and these two fabrics work well in the
summer heat. I’ve worn this dress a few times now and it’s
I saw a review of this pattern where the back waistband was super comfortable. The floral and birds fabric is 100% cotton
changed for flatter shaping. A note of caution – on the dress, and is a good broadcloth. By good I mean it washes well,
the back waistband uses elastic for shaping. The dress style irons nicely, sews easily and the fabric is opaque so you
also instructs you to add a side zipper. If you make the dress really don’t need to line the skirt. I didn’t line the skirt and
this way, closing the zipper with an elastic waistband puts didn’t need to line the skirt. The bodice is lined as the pattern
too much stress on the zipper. It’s the nightmare feature of suggests. The test dress was so lovely to wear but this
the dress style. In fact, the jumpsuit doesn’t use a side zipper, broadcloth fabric would have looked very bulky if I had used
so if you make the dress and keep the elastic waistband, my the gathers at the back of the skirt waistband.
advice is don’t use the zipper. Simply sew the side seams If you’re looking for a versatile summer pattern that has
closed. some ‘on trend’ features, try Butterick 6351. It has a few style
options and three bust cup variations that suits a few body
The style of the back bodice opening is an on trend feature of shapes.
this pattern. To ensure the back bodice opening is secure, the
pattern requires two buttons at the top of the bodice. If you’re
uncertain about the back bodice opening, add a snap at the
base of the back bodice so it sits more securely. This back STOCKIST
bodice opening makes it easy to get out of with the jumpsuit
but it’s just as worthy of using for the dress too. Especially Butterick 6351 pattern and the fabrics used by Maria are
if you want to eliminate the side zipper. The other thing I did available to buy from Minerva Crafts,
was to lower the back bodice opening by tracing the bodice www.minervacrafts.com
opening curve 2cm lower than the pattern suggests.
Maria’s dress was made using:
I also lowered the waist at the skirt centre front by 4cm. This Floral & Birds cotton dress fabric, £8.99 per metre
again ensures the dress waistline sits at the right part of my Anti-static dress lining fabric, £2.99 per metre
body. This adjustment also makes the skirt hang more level
to the floor. The skirt hem was shortened by 6cm but I made The Minerva Crafts Blogger Network
this adjustment at the widest part of my hips on the pattern. is a collective of amazing crafting
Making the adjustment at the hips allows me to keep the hem bloggers from across the world.
shape as provided. I have a sway back so I normally make an Every month each blogger creates
adjustment on the back skirt but I was able to add darts to a ‘wish list’ from the Minerva Crafts
the top of the back skirt to make it fit my curves. I must also website and in turn get creative
say the pockets on this skirt are very flattering. and wow us with their makes every
month! Their enthusiasm for sewing is a huge source of
There’s a bit of hand sewing to secure the front bodice lining inspiration and the perfect place to start when looking
to the skirt. If you’re not into hand sewing, I suggest using for ideas for your latest project. View the full archive of
pins to secure the lining and then stitching in the ditch from projects at; www.minervacrafts.com
the front waistline.
FEATURE We Meet...
We Meet…
Liesl Gibson
WRITTEN BY KERRY GREEN
Liesl Gibson is a fashion designer who left the New York fashion industry to found Liesl + Co and create
Oliver + S, an innovative pattern brand for children’s clothing. She now designs for four sewing pattern
brands: Oliver + S, Liesl + Co, Straight Stitch Society and Lisette as well as designing an occasional fabric
collection. She recently published her second book, ‘Oliver + S Building Block Dress: A Sewing Pattern
Alteration Guide’. Liesl currently lives in Madrid, Spain with her husband and daughter, although New York
City is her permanent home.
When and how did your love of sewing begin? I decided to take an intensive one-year degree program at
When we were little, I learned a lot by watching my mom sew New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) and learned
for my four younger sisters and I. My grandmother was a everything I could during that time including patternmaking,
fashion designer in the 1940s and she taught me about the draping, sewing techniques and drawing.
principles of design like asymmetry, layering and contrast. I
started out making small projects like needlework and cross- Where do you usually sew and work?
stitch, but it wasn’t until college that I finally made something When we were living in New York, I would commute from our
for myself with the sewing machine. Manhattan apartment to my Brooklyn work studio with its high
ceilings and lots of light and sew there. I also sewed at home in
Tell us about your journey to becoming a clothing and a bedroom walk-in closet that I had converted into a workroom.
pattern designer... In Madrid, we live on one floor of the building and work on
When I first moved to New York after college I worked in another and my sewing space and studio are on the top floor
publishing and finance. During that time, I sewed for myself, but of our building, under the attic eaves. I enjoy working from the
I wasn’t satisfied with following sewing patterns and wanted to same building where I live as I can pop up to my studio for a
understand how to design and develop apparel from scratch. few minutes of sewing whenever I have a chance.
“My grandmother was

a fashion designer in
the 1940s and she
taught me about the
principles of design like
asymmetry, layering
and contrast.”
We Meet... FEATURE
How has living in Spain inspired your work?

I’ve travelled a lot and I get energy from everything I see. I try to
get to Paris at least three times a year and I’ve been to London,
Italy, Portugal, Morocco, as well as a book tour across the U.S.
Living in a new country has given me a stronger sense of what’s
stylistically important to me and that clarity is certainly coming
out in my work.
“I enjoy working from the same building where I live as

I can pop up to my studio for a few minutes of sewing
whenever I have a chance.”
One of your most recent projects was the Oliver + S

Building Block Dress book, containing all the tools
the home sewist needs to design and sew an infinite
number of dresses. Can you explain the book’s main
concept?
My aim was to show sewists how to take a classic girl’s
dress sewing pattern and use different mix-and-match design
elements to create the dress they want to sew. Designers
generally start from a series of block patterns to develop
different styles, and the techniques we use to turn block
patterns into a variety of looks can easily be made accessible
to the curious sewist. So, whilst the book includes a pattern
for a girl’s dress, the techniques in the book can be applied to
many other sewing patterns as well, enabling you to become
a designer and sew virtually any look you can imagine. It’s a
concept that hasn’t been done before and it’s been exciting
to see how it’s opened people’s eyes and imaginations to the
possibilities!
FEATURE We Meet...
“Living in a new country has given me a stronger sense What do you like to sew in you own time?
I sew for my daughter and myself and wish I had time to do
of what’s stylistically important to me and that clarity is more. I also knit when I can, and my grandmother gave me her
loom, which I’d love to start using. I like to challenge myself
certainly coming out in my work.” with unusual or time-consuming projects. I’m currently making
a couture jacket and learning some new techniques in the
process. I’m learning Spanish and my daughter and I take violin
For this book, you and your husband Todd took lessons together. I run, do yoga, and a little ballet for exercise as
control of all the processes- writing, illustration, well. I need a lot of creative outlets in my life to keep the work
photography, printing, distribution, everything! How side fun and interesting.
did that work for you?
Fortunately, we’ve both had experience in book editing and What does the future hold for you and your various
publishing. Plus, we already have a team that we’ve used to pattern brands?
produce our sewing patterns: our technical editor, proofreader, I’m finishing up some Liesl + Co patterns and I have ideas for
graphic designer, etc. So, it went quite smoothly, but it certainly more Oliver + S patterns. I’m also hoping to start work on the
is a lot of work! We’re both very pleased with the result and next book (or maybe even a series of books) like the Building
we’ve already started planning for the next book. Block Dress book, but specifically for women’s clothing. I’d
also like to do another line of fabrics for Robert Kaufman.
We Meet... FEATURE
We recently released a new free website and app called

Sewing Translator (sewingtranslator.com) that allows sewists
to translate sewing terms between over a dozen different
languages. I’m never short of ideas, it’s just a finding the time!
What are your 5 top tips on sewing children’s clothes?
1 Kid’s clothes are a great way to learn! They don’t take a

lot of time or fabric, so you can tackle them with less of
a commitment.
2 Don’t be afraid to try new things when making clothing

for children. It’s a great opportunity to learn new
techniques, especially since you don’t need to be as
concerned with fit.
3 Start by determining the size based on the child’s chest

measurement, and then lengthen or shorten accordingly.
But, if you have a tall, thin child, don’t drop down too
many sizes from their age or the clothes may not look
good proportionally. FURTHER INFORMATION
You can find out more about Liesl and all her
4 As children get older, they’re more interested in wearing

the things you make for them if they can play a part in
the process. You can help them by limiting their options:
creative ventures online:
oliverands.com
pre-select a few fabrics that they can choose so they
don’t get overwhelmed by the options available. @oliverands and @lieslgibson
5 Use the best materials you can. Remember, the most

expensive and valuable thing that goes into sewing
something for a child is your time. Don’t shortchange
www.facebook.com/oliverands
@oliverands
yourself and make your sewing experience frustrating by
using materials that won’t give you the results you want www.pinterest.com/liesl
to achieve.
TECHNIQUE Get to know your fabrics
Get to know your pins

PINS ARE A TINY, BUT ESSENTIAL PART OF ANY SEWING KIT. CHOOSING THE RIGHT PIN FOR THE RIGHT
JOB CAN HELP EASE SEWING OR DRESSMAKING FRUSTRATIONS AND WILL OFTEN IMPROVE THE END
RESULTS OF YOUR FINISHED WORK! LET’S LOOK AT SOME OF THE DIFFERENT PIN TYPES ON OFFER…
HOUSEHOLD
A good all-round general pin, fairly short length, sturdy
and average thickness with a small metal head. Suitable
for most general sewing projects. The fairly short length
means working with them can prove a little fiddly, but
very economical to buy and a good starter pin.
DRESSMAKER’S
Very similar to household pins, but with
a longer (double the length) and finer pin.
Again a very economical pin to buy and
definitely a staple for every sewing basket.
Just beware…if you drop these pins, they are
incredibly hard to spot on a carpeted floor!
GLASS-HEAD
The huge advantage of glass-head pins is that they
can be ironed over and can withstand significant heat
with no chance of melting the head. The glass ball
head also means they are a little easier to see, pick up
and handle than standard dressmaker’s pins. A little
more expensive, but a great choice for dressmaking,
general sewing and quilting too.
Get to know your fabrics TECHNIQUE
PEARL-HEAD
A slightly longer pin than the dressmaker’s pin, with a
pearlised plastic pinhead. Economical, readily available
and easy to handle makes this a good, all-rounder pin.
Often supplied on a plastic pinwheel, which provides
handy storage which is also flat, and so is easy to
transport when sewing on-the-go.
FLOWER-HEAD
An extra-long, fine pin with a large flower head. This pin
type is great for easy visibility and when marking points or
notches. The flower-head can also be pressed over due to
its flat shape but cannot withstand very hot temperatures
like its glass-headed counterpart. Very handy for holding
multiple layers of fabric together.
EXTRA FINE
This type of pin is perfect to use when sewing with
delicate fabrics such as silk, organza and lace as
the extra fine pin means they will leave little or no
holes or damage to the fabric. As these pins are
often fairly long, they can easily bend out of shape,
so it is best to keep them reserved for those special
occasions when working with fine fabrics.
SAFETY PINS
The good old safety pin – with endless possibilities
for use when sewing, around the home or for saving
the day in everyday life. The beauty of a closed safety
pin is that it can keep fabric in position a little more
safely and so is ideal when transporting sewing
projects. Also very handy for holding multiple layers
securely in position when quilting.
REGULAR Pattern Picks
Pattern Picks
Weekend Getaway Blouse & Dress from Liesl + Co. Reina Shirt from Pauline Alice.
£9, downloadable printable PDF pattern available to £11.99, available to buy from
buy from www.backstitch.co.uk www.minervacrafts.com
Lazo Trousers from Thread Theory. The City Trousers from The Avid Seamstress.
£5.95, downloadable printable PDF pattern available £16, available to buy from
to buy from www.backstitch.co.uk www.minervacrafts.com
72 www.sewingworldmagazine.com *All prices correct at time of going to press

Pattern Picks REGULAR
Our selection of some of the best top and trouser patterns for your spring wardrobe!
Pleated & Gathered Tops 7544 from McCalls. Florence Kimono from Sew Caroline.
£8.75, available to buy from £14.99, available to buy from
www.minervacrafts.com www.minervacrafts.com
Port Trousers from Pauline Alice. Flint Cropped Trouser 2210 from Megan Nielsen.
£11.99, available to buy from £16.99, available to buy from
www.minervacrafts.com www.minervacrafts.com
Want more? Find more Spring Wardrobe trouser and top patterns on the Sewing World Pinterest
board, uk.pinterest.com/sewingworldmag/pattern-picks-spring-wardrobe-trousers-tops/
COURSES COURSES COURSES
May - June 2017
Made and Making Café Sewciety

Unit 3, Turner Dumbrells Workshops, Dumbrells Court Road, Studio 2, Apperley Studios, 1 St Andrew’s Road. Montpelier,
Ditchling, East Sussex, BN6 8GT Bristol, BS6 5EH
madeandmaking.co.uk cafesewciety.co.uk
Sarah has been sewing and crafting for as long as she can The Café Sewciety sewing studio is a bright and tranquil
remember. She is never happier than when knee deep in space where you can learn to sew in peace or get creative
fabric and rummaging in a box for that special button or trim with a few friends – whatever your age or skill level. The
to finish a project. So it was a logical conclusion to quit her lessons and workshops are designed to teach you new skills,
insurance day job and create Made and Making. Made and whilst having fun making something beautiful and practical
Making is her chance to share this passion and skills with to take away. If you have never used a sewing machine before
others – whether you want to learn and develop new skills, or (or not for a while) then Café Sewciety offers a new kind of
make your houses a home. space in which to learn.
CREATIVE HAND EMBROIDERY CLASP PURSE WORKSHOP

16th May, 10am-3pm 3rd June, 2pm-6pm
Enjoy a relaxed and light In this afternoon
hearted class to learn basic course you will
embroidery stitches creating a be taught how
unique piece which can be used to make a clasp
as hooped art, transformed purse using a
into a cushion panel or framed mixture of sewing
as a picture. You will practice machine and
different stitches which will crafting skills.
be added to a sampler to use This workshop
for future reference, learn to will best suit
transfer designs to fabric and people who have
use different types of threads/ previously used a sewing machine and who like a bit of fiddly
fabrics to explore how they crafting! The finished purse has a sturdy partition and will
create different textures and comfortably hold a phone, money and keys. All materials are
styles. £60. included in the cost. £48.
APPLIQUÉ AND COLLAGE TECHNIQUES THE THEORY OF DRESSMAKING

15th June, 9.30am-2.30pm 17th June, 11am-1pm
If you would like to This is the perfect workshop for anyone who has been using
learn more about the a sewing machine to make simple craft projects and is now
various appliqué techniques keen to start making their own clothes. This is a two-hour
and enjoy playing with theory lesson that should give you all the information you
fabrics, then you’ll love need to get started on your first dressmaking project. The
this creative session. You course covers buying patterns and fabric, how to follow a
will practice a selection of pattern and basic
appliqué techniques and learn pattern adjustments.
how to use prompts before A good variety of
rummaging in the available patterns and fabric
baskets of fabric to create samples will be
you very own unique piece of available for you
textile art. You don’t need to to analyse and
be artistic, just bring along an compare as well
open mind. £60. as suitable tried
and tested pattern
suggestions. £18.
74 www.sewingworldmagazine.com For full details on the courses listed and to book,

COURSES COURSES COURSES
Hat in the Cat and Big Cat Textiles The Sewing Lounge
3 Clinton Street, Newburgh, KY14 6DP 18 Kingsway House, 134-140 Church Road, Hove, East
textilecentre.co.uk Sussex BN3 2DL
sewinbrighton.co.uk
Since expanding from the Hat in the Cat shop in Perth into
the renovated building at Newburgh in 2011, Big Cat Textiles Sew in Brighton sewing school runs 10 -12 classes, courses
has gone from strength to strength and is now one of the and workshops every week for all levels and abilities. Course
leading providers of textile masterclasses in the UK and in offerings include; making and fitting clothes, learning to
the international textile community. Their classes attract both sew from scratch, overlocking, knitting and crochet, pattern
students and tutors from all corners of the globe. cutting, designing, lampshade making, alterations and much
more. Tuition is from a team of friendly and encouraging
INTRO TO HAND EMBROIDERY WITH RICHARD MCVETIS teachers (including Kat Neeser, Sew in Brighten owner) who
22nd-23rd May have skills and expertise on a huge variety of subjects.
Embroidery is an international language made up from
hundreds of stitches. FASHION DESIGN & PATTERN CUTTING
A few of these stitches 5th May-23rd June,
happen to be the 11am-1.30pm
favourite of artist Have you made clothes
Richard McVetis. In from commercial
this two-day workshop dressmaking patterns
participants will but wish you had more
explore the enormous choice and a better fit?
scope of stitches What if you could sew
and their versatility. your own designs,
Create fascinating textures and patterns, work a stitch or copy your favourite
in different threads changing its scale and spacing, work clothes or recreate
freely, and combine stitches to mark make and draw. This vintage patterns in your size? Design and make the pattern
is an experimental approach to stitch and draws on the for your own skirt in any design you can dream up, plus learn
imagination of each participant. Richard will be on hand to the design and pattern cutting skills to make all types of
guide and inspire you through the workshop drawing on his tailored-to-you clothes. £169 for eight sessions.
ten years of stitching experience. £185 plus £5 per day lunch
(optional). TAILORED JACKET
9th May-27th June, 7pm-9.30pm
RANDOM PRECISION: 3-DIMENSIONAL LINE, STITCH, Make yourself a modern, tailored lined jacket that fits you
STRUCTURE AND LIGHT beautifully and have the pattern to take away to use again
WITH MICHAEL BRENNAND-WOOD and again as is, or tweaked to different shapes and styles
19th-23rd June and in a variety of fabrics. Getting a great fit is the focus of
Using a personal collection of materials with strong linear this course so you will make a calico toile prior to completing
qualities, participants will develop an individual vocabulary a single breasted lined
of three-dimensional lines. This challenging workshop jacket in your choice of
is an exploration of stitch, depth, translucency, illusion fabric and length – with
and structure. Multi-media or without pockets and
construction using fabric, buttons on the cuffs.
thread, metal, paper, paint, £189 for eight sessions,
and wood – plus other collage price includes your own
material will be explored. jacket pattern for use
Teaching will largely be on a on the course (and free
one-to-one basis, with a specific matching skirt pattern to
focus on the discussion of take away).
personal ideas and
research sources. £500 plus £5
per day lunch (optional).
please visit the course providers own website www.sewingworldmagazine.com 75

Manchester Birmingham
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Bookshelf REGULAR
bookshelf
The Art of the White Shirt: Over 30 Ways Knickers! Stitch, Fabric & Thread - An inspirational
to Wear a White T-Shirt, Blouse or Shirt Delia Adey and Erika Peto
ISBN 978-1-4463-0633-8
guide for creative stitchers
Libby VanderPloeg Elizabeth Healey
ISBN 978-1-78488-087-3 Make your own knickers with this ISBN 978-1-78221-285-0
collection of flirty, frilly pants from Delia
A beautifully illustrated book that and Erika of Flo-Jo Boutique. Knickers are This book is a treasure trove of over
explores the joys of the outfit staple that the perfect quick-to-stitch sewing project forty inspiring practical exercises, a rich
can be found in almost every woman’s and this collection includes six different and creative exploration of fabric and
wardrobe – the classic white shirt. Learn styles of handmade lingerie for you to stitch and a fascinating all-round read.
how to transform your T-shirts, blouses choose from. It also includes graded Bursting with slow sewing ideas you will
or shirts with accessories, some key patterns for UK dress sizes 8-22. Delia find wonderfully detailed instructions
wardrobe pieces such as jeans, a pencil and Erika’s patterns have vintage appeal covering techniques such as quilting,
skirt, a good pair of black trousers and a with their sweet retro styling and cute printing, dyeing, couching tumbled
little bit of imagination. Featuring thirty design features including ribbon ties and crockery, creating pleats and puckers and
ingenious ideas, it also profiles modern ruching. Choose from Liberty print briefs, needlelace. It also contains ‘behind the
style icons from Tilda Swinton, Patti lacy cotton pants, French knickers and scenes stitches’ features; illuminating
Smith and Katherine Hepburn, their stretch lace briefs, among others. insights into sewing movements such
diversity shows that whatever your size, as Boro textiles, Gee’s bend quilting and
shape or personality, the white shirt never This title is published by David & Charles Dorset Buttons. This book is an absolute
goes out of style. and is priced at £8.99 must buy for those who love to get
creative with their sewing.
This title is published by Hardie Grant
Books and is priced at £9.99 This title is published by Search Press
and is priced at £14.99
www.sewingmachinesales.co.uk
219 Whitley Road, Whitley Bay, Tyne & Wear NE26 2SY England
Sales • Parts • Embroidery software
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0845 430 9824
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Moda, Makower, Robert Kaufman, Kona Solids
Mail order and Webshop
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Follow us on Facebook
La Taniere, Upper Midvale Road, St Helier, Jersey, JE2 3ZH
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On-line stockists of Liberty

fabrics, Tana Lawn, Needlecord,
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Serendipity, Sewaholic, and more
For amazing offers go to

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Reader’s market
From the June 2017 issue, Sewing World magazine will no longer offer a free
classified advert service. To find out more about advertising opportunities which
cost from as little as £15, please email anne.delanoy@mytimemedia.com
FREE CLASSIFIEDS * FREE CLASSIFIEDS * FREE CLASSIFIEDS * FREE CLASSIFIEDS * FREE CLASSIFIEDS * FREE CLASSIFIEDS * FREE CLASSIFIEDS
METTLER THREADS Boxed set of QUILTERS CABINET BY FACADES and Macro).A quality used Sewing ELNA 820 Embroidery Machine. Little
28 Mettler Poly Sheen Threads, multi OF DEVON lots of storage, draws, two Machine in excellent condition. £950. used with all accessories. Exact same
colours, unwanted gift.£25.00 plus tables, two side bookcases. Measures 020 8668 3572, Surrey. machine with the same functions as
£2.80 p&p. 01825 764100, East Sussex. closed 76" high, 80" wide, 26" deep. EXTENSION TABLE/CLOTHSETTER Janome 350e. Ideal as first embroidery
BROTHER PR600 semi industrial 6 Good condition £1,500 Buyer collects. for Janome Memory Craft 11000 Sewing machine. USB transfer of designs etc. 2
head embroidery machine with many 01536 710735, Northants. Machine. For sale at £35.00 (Half price) hoops. £425 Collect only. 0151 527
extras. Comes with: own sturdy table; HORN CRAFT AND CUTTING 020 8668 3572, Surrey. 2091, Liverpool.
brand new cap frame; all original TABLE (Beech) with storage for craft ELNA 760 EXCELLENCE PRO BIGSHOT FABRIC CUTTER plus 9
accessories; instruction book; items. Ideal for quilters. Fitted with Sewing and Quilting Machine. Used for dies. £50.Buyer to collect. 01395
Generations software; special course on castors. VGC. £250 (RRP £659) one project and in new condition. Cost 233020, Exeter.
the software by Lindee Goodall; all Any questions email elisehansen@ £2000 will accept £1,000 with all HUSQVARNA 910 OVERLOCKER
standard frames plus 3 extras, many hotmail.co.uk or tel. 07484 834166 accessories. Can post in original box, Excellent condition. Extra feet and
designs, almost 2 boxes of pre wound Collect only from Greater London BR1. anywhere in UK for cost. Any trial extension table included.£250 ono.
bobbins; brand new electric bobbin JANOME MEMORY CRAFT 11000 welcome. 0151 527 2091, Liverpool. 01634 575888, Kent.
winder and more. Downsizing my Sewing Machine. A high quality BERNINA 8 SERIES BOBBINS DIANA DRESS FORM Fully
machines as had to move. Excellent computerised combined Sewing and SET of 20 in red top containers. adjustable dress form from size 8-16.
condition and very easy to use. Embroidery Machine. The machine Plus a few extra ones. As new £20 plus Condition as new. £60.00. Buyer to
Wonderful opportunity with everything includes hundreds of decorative postage. 0151 527 2091, Liverpool. collect or arrange carriage. 01246
to start your own business and make stitches and a wide choice of built-in BERNINA MULTI SPOOL THREAD 274117, Derbyshire.
some money or enjoy embroidering for embroidery designs. Embroidery STAND Will fit Computerised 730/830 BERNINA Embroidery Unit. Suitable for
yourself. I am selling all of this designs can also be downloaded from Series of Machine. Excellent condition Series 400:500:600. Recently serviced,
equipment for only £3,700 ono for a the Internet. 3 Embroidery Hoops are £25 plus postage. 0151 527 2091, excellent condition, rarely used. Original
quick sale. 01903 532167, West Sussex. included in this sale (Standard, Square Liverpool. packing case. £500. 07710 444431, Fife.
NO responsibility will be accepted for misprints or printing errors. Trade Description Act: Attention should be paid to the requirements of the Act when
giving detailed descriptions of all goods offered for sale. The business Advertisements (Disclosure) Order 1977 requires that persons attempting to sell
goods in the course of business must make that fact clear. Consumers should know whether the advert relates to a sale by a trader or private seller.
Shopping Directory
www.dowlings-sew.co.uk
Sew Busy
Open Mon 9.30-3.00, Tues-Sat 9.30-4.30 Stockists of Michael Miller,
www.singermachines.co.uk
Riley Blake, Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann and others. Buttons, 24 HOUR ONLINE SHOPPING
haberdashery, patterns and craft workshops. Tel. 01252 444220. Unit B, • FREE DELIVERY. SALES,
Branksome Chambers, Branksomewood Road, Fleet, Hampshire. GU51 PARTS & HABERDASHERY
4JS info@sew-busy.co.uk www.sew-busy.co.uk Singer Sewing Shop
Pembertons Sewing & Craft Centre Beccles Sewing & Handicraft

Scotland’s Premier Sewing Centre. Sales & Repairs for all leading
Mon, Tues, Thurs 9.00-5.00, Weds 9.00-3.00 and Sat 9.00-4.00
makes of Sewing & Overlocking Machines, Presses & Cabinets.
Major credit cards accepted. Tel. 01502 441638. 15a Blyburgate,
Needlecrafts, Haberdashery, Dress & Craft Fabrics, Wool & Patterns.
Beccles, Suffolk. NR34 9TB info@becclessewingandhandicraft.co.uk
Tel. 01786 462993. 21-25 Friars St, Stirling. FK8 1HA
www.becclessewingandhandicraft.co.uk
www.psmc.co.uk
The Final Thread
Sewing Without a Pattern
I love making my own clothes but traditional paper sewing patterns have their drawbacks. The tissue
rips easily and the pattern pieces never seem to fold back into the pattern envelope in the neat way they
emerged and digital PDF patterns can be laborious to tape together and tricky to store. There are paper-
free approaches to dress making and two experienced designers, Chinelo Bally and Rosie Martin, have y Green
with Kerr
both written books sharing their different methods on how to sew without a pattern.
Freehand Fashion then marked as well as generous seam allowances so

You may remember Chinelo fit can be tweaked at easily accessible
Bally from series four places like side seams. There is a definite
of the BBC series, Great ‘ta-da!’ moment when the flat piece of
British Sewing Bee. She is fabric suddenly resembles a familiar
a highly skilled seamstress bodice or sleeve shape and Chinelo uses
who was taught Nigerian cheap polycotton fabric rather than paper
freehand cutting by her for her blocks.
aunt and sewed her way
into the Sewing Bee final Freehand cutting works for any body
using the technique for shape or height. It is especially effective
many of her stunning at creating a close fit, strong garment
creations. Chinelo went on silhouettes and dynamic clothing
to write a book, Freehand shapes. The book includes the Velvet
Fashion, describing all Wrap Dress, which won Chinelo
you need to know to ‘Garment of the Week’ during The Great
get started on freehand British Sewing Bee. She has gone on
cutting. It’s a simple technique and requires just a few to develop her own bespoke garment
tools like a sewing machine, tape measure, tailor’s chalk making business using the freehand
and dressmaking scissors. The book covers basic sewing cutting technique and has produced
skills including seam finishing, zip insertion and hemming. many stunning designs including many
It also has a detailed section on taking accurate body for singer/songwriter Laura Mvula. Although beautiful
measurements - the foundation of freehand cutting, with evening dresses are where Chinelo’s aesthetic is best
lots of tips for measuring yourself rather than having to displayed, many of the garments in the book are simpler
rely on a sewing buddy. Chinelo then takes you step-by- and suitable for daywear - the pencil skirt and short-
step through five blocks: bodice, dress, skirt, flare and sleeved batwing top for example. The patterns use a
sleeve, all of which can be used to make range of fabrics including wovens
any of the garments in the second half of and knits, and Chinelo showcases
the book. many wonderful uses of print
placement, including dramatic
So how does it work? Once you have a stripes in the Wraparound Maxi
list of your measurements, you then work Dress. If you’ve had fit issues in the
directly onto the fabric. Fabric is often past and are looking for feminine
folded and quickly starts to reassemble a glamour and a little luxury, this could
garment as straight edges are assigned be the book for you.
to centre front/back or shoulder
seams. Chalk marks are added using Freehand Fashion by Chinelo Bally is
your measurements plus a few simple published by Pavilion. Photographs by
calculations (it helps to have a calculator Claire Pepper.
to hand), and these marks are joined like www.chinelobally.net
a dot-to-dot to form the block outlines. chinelobally.wordpress.com
Extra details like darts and notches are IG: @chinelobally
Like Chinelo, Rosie starts her construction process with
body measurements although fewer are needed for
this technique and many of the clothing designs in No
Patterns Needed include loose and flowing elements with
forgiving fit. She then explains how to mark either fabric
or newspaper depending on the design, or uses existing
garments from your wardrobe as a starting point and
guide.
This is a very beginner friendly book. No special

equipment is needed and the sewing terminology is
easy to understand with instructions like “press to the
inside” demystified and fully explained. Each project has a
graphic rich layout of diagrams and instructions including
photographic inserts. Key skills are listed for each garment
so it’s a great way to add to your sewing experience and
repertoire. The garments are also displayed in a range
of sizes with lots of tips and images on how to vary a
garment, e.g. adding fullness, changing fastenings, and
using different fabrics from quilting cotton to leatherette.
No Patterns Needed If you like being creative, the freedom to make your own
Rosie Martin started her DIY Couture sewing brand and design decisions and enjoy experimenting with fabrics, the
creative fashion label in 2008 and has been creating playful and innovative approach of this book could be just
accessible patterns ever since. She likes to use visual right for you.
and colourful tutorials like the ones in her first book,
DIY Couture: Create Your Own Fashion Collection. Her
most recent book, No Patterns Needed, came about
from a desire to reclaim the geometric shapes that have
frequently been used to categories women’s bodies –
hourglass, pear, rounded etc. and to celebrate the same
geometry in clothing. She uses three shapes to create
fifteen visual tutorials and original garments. The rectangle
is the foundation of the first five designs; the circle
represents infinity and movement, explored in the next
five garments, all of which use a full or part circle-shaped
piece of fabric; and the triangle symbolises strength and
transcendence for the final five designs.
No Patterns Needed, by Rosie Martin is published by

Laurence King. Model photographs by Victoria Siddle
www.diy-couture.co.uk
diy-couture.blogspot.co.uk
IG: @rosie_diycouture
If traditional paper patterns are holding you back maybe

it’s time to try something new? Whether you prefer the
fitted drama of Chinelo’s freehand cut designs or the
dynamic playful informality of Rosie’s fashion-forward
shape inspired garments, both techniques centre on
creating garments to fit your body and there’s much to be
gained from trying a new dressmaking method.
Kerry Green is co-author of 500 Quilt Blocks and has contributed to a range of quilting books and magazines. You can
find more sewing tips, free patterns, tutorials and more at Kerry’s blog: verykerryberry@blogspot.co.uk
FEATURE Stitched Stories
Stitched Stories
Many of us have pivotal moments where our love of fabrics or sewing first started. Often
it can be encapsulated by a specific garment or fabric that just seems to capture your
imagination and is loaded with nostalgia and sentiment. Each of our sewing stories is
different and unique to us, Julia Claridge from Bobbins and Buttons shares hers.
I still clearly remember the occasion when I fell in love with sewing. I was around 7
years old. My mum worked as an occupational therapist caring for the elderly. She
had to take me into work with her for a few hours one day, she set up an old hand
crank machine that she used with her patients, and while she worked she let me
have a go. I was so excited to watch the neat row of stitches slowly appear behind
the foot and even more excited to watch small pieces of fabric be transformed
into something new. During the time I was with mum at work, I made several
rather rough calico pencils cases, but I couldn’t wait to give them to my sister
when I got home and tell her all about my new sewing adventures.
My mum made most of her own clothes as well as most of mine and my sisters. I
grew up in the 70’s when I think people made clothing as a thrifty choice, perhaps
more than as a creative outlet. I certainly remember mum studying a pattern
to see how she could adapt it to save a bit of fabric. She would choose simple
straight skirts for everyday that would only use a metre of fabric and perhaps
something fuller for a special occasion.
After my first experience with a sewing machine she let me get involved in making
my own clothes, sewing straight seams and making simple items, I loved sewing
with mum. I think although making clothes was very much a part of her life, she
also enjoyed the experience. For me I just loved everything about it. I loved flicking
through the pattern books to choose a new style, then finding suitable fabric,
trims and matching thread before taking it all home to embark on a new sewing
adventure with mum. She let me use my grans lovely old Singer sewing machine;
originally it had been a hand crank machine but was converted to an electric
machine. I still own this machine today.
By the time it came to leaving school I was capable of making more advanced
items like jackets and dresses. I remember sitting down with a careers advisor
who asked me what my interests were and what I would like to do after school. I
just said ‘sew’. They told me about a fashion course which seemed like a dream
come true. There started a lifetime of careers in sewing related jobs.
This year marks 20 years since my mum sadly passed away. I think she would be
happy to know that I am teaching her grandchildren to sew, who are now aged 5
and 7 years old. I have also turned this lifelong passion into a business where I
teach lots of lovely customers to sew too.
SHARE YOUR STITCHED STORIES

We’d love to hear from you and showcase your special textiles loves and memories here.
Get in touch by email – sw@mytimemedia.com

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6 FREE full-size patterns inside!

Projects for you

Expert Sewing Tips

Dressmaking Embroidery Appliqué Patchwork

Welcome to the May 2017 issue of Sewing World!

Plus, we have some inspiring features this month. Kerry Green

Emma & Leanne

50 Coming Next Month 68 Get to Know Your Pins

for lazy May mornings MARKETING & SUBSCRIPTIONS

The Flint Pattern

Find your local stockist at

RRP is £4.99 per kit

These kits are available to

Little Ragsmith Baby and Toddler

RRP for the dress kit is £36

To see Little Ragsmith’s full range visit,

Bordeaux Magnetic Pin Caddy

Clover products are available nationwide from all good

Atelier Brunette Sweatshirt Fabric

RRP is £22 per metre

Available to buy from Backstitch,

Celebrate Spring with Oakshott

Readers’ Makes of the Month!

Flora and Fauna

Birds Eye View

Brighten up your sewing with prints that celebrate

1 Terra in Twig 2 Butterflies in Navy 3 Anteaters Flannel in Midnight

4 Wild Flowers in Plum 5 Bouquet in Cream 6 Wild Flowers in Pink

7 Bumble Beez 8 Sprinkled Peonies Fresh 9 Dreamer Moment In Time Light

Girls Spring MATERIALS

Scraps of fabric for

• 1m, 1cm wide bias binding

iron in place on the front dress

Elastic: Size Chest Length centre

1 Trace the appliqué shapes onto

5 Add the flower centres and

4 Drop the feed dogs and attach a

A FUN GARDEN SCENE APPLIQUÉ GIRLS DRESS WITH ELASTICATED NECKLINE,

6 To make the dress, prepare the

10 Press the bias tape to the inside

7 With RST and notches matched,

dress front. Do the same with the

8 Place front and back pieces

9 Starting at the back neck, near a www.facebook.com/

line of the tape. Overlap the tape www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

• 1 or 2 old leather belts

• 1 or 2 old shirts for lining (I

chevron panel* image of each other, staggered • 16 tubular rivets 3-4mm

strip will only be visible a little bit once

the bag is finished. Try to cut the strips

out on the grain of the denim – use the

hemline of the jeans as a guide. The grain

is likely to be at a 90° angle to the hem.

Shirt/lining fabric: GOOD TO KNOW

• Depending on the size of your

3 From these panels, cut strips on

4 Alternate the new strips to create

together, making sure that the

10 Sew the other panel onto the