1 Body Parts

Body Length
Chest Width
2 Sleeve
3 Collar
4 Cuff
5 Collar Band
6 Pocket
7 Yoke
 Measurement Chart
Measurement
Actual Length with Allowance
Body Parts (Cm) Allowance (Cm) (CM)
Body Length from (HSP) 79 6 85
1/2 Chest 52 6 58
Sleeve Length 59 6 65
Armhole (Straight) 20 5 25
Collar Length 40 4 44
Collar Width 6 2 8
Cuff Length 10 3 13
Cuff Width 3 0.5 3.5
Collar Band Length 31 3 34
Collar Band Width 2 2 4
Pocket Length 13 2 15
Pocket Width 10 1 11
Yoke Length 46 4 50
Yoke Width 10 3 13
 Measurement Chart
Allowance Measurement with
Body Parts Actual Length (Cm) (Cm) Allowance (CM)

Body Length from (HSP) 79 6 85

1/2 Chest 52 6 58

Sleeve Length 59 6 65

Armhole (Straight) 20 5 25
Collar Length 40 4 44

Collar Width 6 2 8

Cuff Length 10 3 13

Cuff Width 3 0.5 3.5

Collar Band Length 31 3 34

Collar Band Width 2 2 4

Pocket Length 13 2 15
Pocket Width 10 1 11
Yoke Length 46 4 50

Yoke Width 10 3 13
 Fabric Width 44
Fabric Width = 55 cm; 2.54 to convert into inch from cm;
36 to convert into yard from inch Yds per Dozen

1. Fabric Consumption for Body Parts (Body + Chest) =

((Body Length + Allowances)X(1/2 Chest + Allowances) X 2
X 12)/(Fabric Width X 36 X 2.54) 29.4082557862085

2. Fabric Consumption for Sleeve = ((Sleeve Length +

Allowances)X(Armhole + Allowances) X 2 X 2 X 12)/(Fabric
Width X 36 X 2.54) 19.3867811978048

3. Fabric Consumption for Collar = ((Collar Length +

Allowances)X(Collar + Allowances) X 2 X 12)/(Fabric Width
X 36 X 2.54) 2.0997375328084

4. Fabric Consumption for Cuff = (Cuff Length +

Allowances)X(Cuff Width + Allowances) X 2 X 2 X
12)/(Fabric Width X 36 X 2.54) 0.542829873538535

5. Fabric Consumption for Collar Band = ((Collar Band

Length + Allowances)X(Collar Band Width + Allowances) X
2 X 12)/(Fabric Width X 36 X 2.54) 0.811262228585063

6. Fabric Consumption for Pocket = ((Pocket Length +

Allowances)X(Pocket Width + Allowances) X 12)/(Fabric
Width X 36 X 2.54) 0.492125984251969

7. Fabric Consumption for Yoke = ((Yoke Length +

Allowances)X(Yoke Width + Allowances) X 2 X12)/(Fabric
Width X 36 X 2.54) 3.87735623956096
Total Yards per dozen without wastage 56.6183488427583
Wastage @5% 2.83091744213792
Yards per dozen 59.4492662848962
10000 Pieces 833.333333333333
Total Fabric Consumption for 10000 pieces 49541.0552374135
Weaving Calculation

1 Count

a. Indirect System

b. Direct System

c. Universal System

Twist per Inch or Meter (TPI or TPM)

3 Multi filament Yarns

• A number indicating the Mass per unit Length OR
• The length per unit mass of Yarn.
• Expression of the fineness of Yarn.
There are three Systems to Calculate Count -

Total No. of hanks per one pound is the count of that yarn (Ne) i.e. if 10 hanks (10 x
840 yds. or 7680 meters) weighs one Pound or 0.454 Kg, then the Count of Yarn in
indirect system 10s or 10Ne.
This System widely used for staple fiber spun yarns like 100% Cotton, Viscose,
Polyester fibers and their blends.
Higher the yarn Count i.e. Ne the yarn is finer

In this system the yarn numbering is called as Denier (D)

Higher the yarn number i.e. Denier the yarn is coarser

In this system count is called as Tex

Commonly used other numbering systems
I. Nf - French count: - It is the No of 1000 meters length in ½ kg of yarn
II. Nm - Metric system: - Count is the No of 1000 meters length per kg. of yarn.
III. Worsted system: - Count is the No. of 560 yards in one lbs.
IV. Linen system: - It is the No. of leas of 300 yards per pound
V. Hemp, Jute, Flax: - Count is the No of 14,400 yards length per pound of yarn

• To give strength to the yarn, certain twist is given in the yarn.

• TPI vary according to end use of yarn. More twist for warp yarns, medium twist for
weft yarns and less twist for hosiery yarns.
• Twist is given in ‘Z’ direction or ‘S’ direction.
• If twist is given in CW direction it is ‘Z’ twist.
• If it is given in CCW direction it is ‘S’ twist.
• Single yarns are given ‘Z’ twist and double yarns are given ‘S’ twist.

Multi-filament yarn are identified as 80/34/250, 80/34/0, 155/16/120

Here the first number denotes the Denier, second shows No. of filaments in the
yarn& the last indicate No. of Twist per meter
Formulae

Count = Length in hanks (840 Yards)

------------------------------------------
Weight in Pounds

Count = Weight in grams per 9000 meters of yarn

Count = No of grams per 1000 meters or per km of yarn

Twist relation for double yarn TPI = 0.7 x Single yarn TPI

        

        
Conversion

1 Lea = 120 yd
7 Leas = 1 hank
1 Hank = 840 yds. or 768 meter

English (Ne) to Denier (D) - Denier = 5315 / Ne

English (Ne) to Tex - Tex = 590.5 / Ne
French (Nf) to English (Ne) - English (Ne) = Nf
x 1.181
Fabric Type = Single Jersey ; GSM = 180 ;
Total Order Quantity = 10000
Body Length or Shirt Length = 74 cm
Sleeve Length = 30 cm
½ Chest Width = 58 cm

74 58
30 6
12
116 X 64 X 2 180 12 32071680
10000000
Dozen
3.207168 Kg 10%
0.320717 3.527885 Kg per Dozen
10000
833.3333
2939.904 KG
1 Body Parts
2 Pocket
3 Pocketing Fabric
4 Belt Loop

Actual LengAllowance Measuremengt with Allowance inch)

Total Length including Waist Height 44 2 46
Waist Width 35 2 37
HIP 45 2 47
Thigh 18 2 20
Bottom Width 13 2 15
Back Pocket Length 7 1 8
Back Pocket Width 6 1 7
Belt Loop Length 1.5 0.5 2
Belt Loop Width 0.5 0.5 1
Pocket Bag Length 7 1 8
Pocket Bag Width 6 1 7
Allowance inch)
 Actual Length (inch) Allowance
Total Length including Waist Height 44 2
Thigh 18 2
Back Pocket Length 7 1
Back Pocket Width 6 1
Pocket Bag Length 7 1
Pocket Bag Width 6 1
Belt Loop Length 1.5 0.5
Belt Loop Width 0.5 0.5
Measurement with Allowance inch)
46
20
8
7
8
7
2
1
 22
1. Fabric Consumption for Body Parts = ((Body Length X Body Width X No. of Parts X 55.75758
12) / (Fabric Width X 36)
2. Fabric Consumption for Back Pocket 2 Pcs = ((Back Pocket Legth X Back Pocket 3.393939
Width X No. of Parts X No. of Pockets X 12) / (Fabric Width X 36)
3. Fabric Consumption for Pocket Bag Length 2 Pcs = ((Pocket Bag Legth X Pocket 6.787879
Bag Width X No. of Parts X No. of Pocket Bag X 12) / (Fabric Width X 36)
4. Fabric Consumption for Belt Loop Length 5 Pcs = ((Belt Loop Legth X Belt Loop 0.30303
Width X No. of Parts X No. of Belt Loop X 12) / (Fabric Width X 36)

Total Yards per dozen without wastage 66.24242

Wastage @5% 3.312121

Yards per dozen 69.55455

10000 Pieces 833.3333

Total Fabric Consumption for 10000 pieces 57962.12