CBLM and Assessment Tool

COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIALS
SECTOR: Garments SECTOR
QUALIFICATION: DRESSMAKING NC II
UNIT OF COMEPETENCY: SEW CASUAL APPAREL
MODULE TITLE: SEW CASUAL APPAREL
PREPARED BY: KRYSTYN CAMILLE A. MADRIGAL
Sorsogon National Agricultural School

Mayon, Castilla, Sorsogon
Dressmaking NC II
COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIALS
List of Competencies
No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code
Drafting and cutting

Draft and cut pattern GRM743301
1. pattern for casual
for casual apparel
apparel
Prepare and cut Preparing and cutting

GRM743302
2. materials of casual materials of casual
apparel apparel
GRM743303
3. Sew casual apparel Sewing casual apparel
Apply finishing Applying finishing

GRM743304
4. touches on casual touches on casual
apparel apparel
Document No
CBLM in Date Developed:
Issued by:
Dressmaking NC II November 2014
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Developed by: TESDA-SNAS
Sewing Casual
Krystyn Camille
Apparel Revision # 01
A. Madrigal
HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY- BASED LEARNING
MATERIALS
Welcome!
The unit of competency, Sewing Casual Apparel, is one of the
competencies of Dressmaking National Certificate II (NCII), a course
which comprises the knowledge, skills and attitudes required for a TVET
trainer to possess. The module, Sew Casual Apparel, contains training
materials and activities related to identifying learner’s requirements,
preparing session plan, preparing basic instructional materials and
organizing learning and teaching activities for you to complete. In this
module, you are required to go through a series of learning activities in
order to complete each learning outcome. In each learning outcome are
Information Sheets, Self-Checks, Task Sheets and Job Sheets. Follow and
perform the activities on your own. If you have questions, do not hesitate to
ask for assistance from your facilitator.
Remember to:
 Read information sheets and complete the self-checks. Suggested

references are included to supplement the materials provided in this
module.
 Perform the Task Sheets and Job Sheets until you are confident that your
outputs conform to the Performance Criteria Checklist that follows the
sheets.
 Submit outputs of the Task Sheets and Job Sheets to your facilitator for
evaluation and recording in the Accomplishment Chart. Outputs shall
serve as your portfolio during the Institutional Competency Evaluation.
When you feel confident that you have had sufficient practice, ask your
trainer to evaluate you. The results of your assessment will be recorded in
your Progress Chart and Accomplishment Chart. You must pass the
Institutional Competency Evaluation for this competency before moving to
another competency. A Certificate of Achievement will be awarded to you
after passing the evaluation. You need to complete this module before you
can perform the module on Applying Finishing Touches on Casual
Apparel.
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MODULE CONTENT
UNIT OF COMPETENCY: SEW CASUAL APPAREL
MODULE TITLE: SEWING CASUAL APPAREL
MODULE DESCRIPTOR:
This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes required in
sewing casual apparel. It includes the requirements for preparing cut parts,
preparing sewing machines for operations and sewing garment.
NOMINAL DURATION: 80 hours
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
At the end of this module you MUST be able to:
 Prepare cut parts
 Prepare sewing machine for operation
 Sew and assemble garment parts
 Alter completed garment
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
 Cut parts are prepared in accordance with the specified garment
design/style.
 Cut parts are pressed in accordance with fabric specifications.
 Cut parts are pinned together in accordance with garment design
or style
 Accessories and accents are prepared in accordance with garment
design or style.
 Machine parts are cleaned and lubricated in accordance with
company’s requirements and manufacturer’s cleaning and
lubricating instructions.
 Machines are threaded in accordance with the company’s work
procedure
 Machines are set-up and adjusted in accordance with fabric
specification.
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 Speed of machine and work handling are controlled in accordance
with company’s procedures.
 Minor machines problem or fault is identified and repaired in
accordance to manufacturer’s manuals.
 Machine operations is monitored.
 Company’s health and safety practices and procedures are
followed as per standard operating procedures
 Garments parts are assembled in accordance with garment
assembly instruction and pattern specifications.
 Garments are sewn in accordance with sewing standard
procedures and company’s time frames
 Sleeves, collars and pockets are identified and sewn in terms of
customer’s specification
 The neckline and corners are sewn evenly and sharp according to
sewing procedures
 Pocket flaps and pieces had clean corners with no raw edges
 Zipper is sewn without puckered according to sewing instructions
 Seams, edges are finished in accordance with the job
requirements
 Waistband width are evenly sewn from end-to-end according to
standard operating procedure.
 Alteration/modifications are determined/undertaken in
accordance with the client’s specifications
 Final fitting is conducted to ensure client’s satisfaction
 Garments alteration is completed as per clients’ satisfaction.
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LEARNING OUTCOME NO. _2_
Prepare Sewing Machine for Operation
Contents:
1. Types and Functions of Sewing Machine

2. Machine Troubles and Remedies
3. Needles Types and Their Application
Assessment Criteria
1. Machine parts are cleaned and lubricated in accordance with

company’s requirements and manufacturer’s cleaning and
lubricating instructions.
2. Machines are threaded in accordance with the company’s work
procedure
3. Machines are set-up and adjusted in accordance with fabric
specification.
4. Speed of machine and work handling are controlled in
accordance with company’s procedures.
5. Minor machines problem or fault is identified and repaired in
accordance to manufacturer’s manuals.
6. Machine operations is monitored.
7. Company’s health and safety practices and procedures are
followed as per standard operating procedures
Conditions
The participants will have access to:
1. Needles
2. Testing fabric
3. Thread
4. Working tools
5. Shears
6. High speed sewing machine
7. High speed sewing machine attachments
Assessment Method:
1. Written Test
2. Actual Performance
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Learning Experiences
Learning Outcome _2_
PREPARE SEWING MACHINE FOR OPERATION
Learning Activities Special Instructions

Read Information Sheet 3.2-1 on Remember the Types and
Types and Functions of Sewing Functions of Sewing Machine
Machine
Answer self-check 3.2-1 on Types Try to answer without looking at
and Functions of sewing machine the key answer
Compare Answer to Answer Key 3.2-

1
Read Information Sheet 3.2-2 on Understand Machine Troubles and
Machine Troubles and Remedies Remedies
Answer self-check 3.2-2 on Machine Try to answer without looking at

Troubles and Remedies the key answer
Compare Answer to answer key 3.2-

2
Perform Task sheet 3.2-2a on Show your output to your trainer
Conduct Sample Run for his feedback as you
accomplished them
Rate/Evaluate Performance using 80% of the criteria must be
Performance Criteria Checklist 3.2- obtained by the trainee
2a
Read Information Sheet 3.2-3 Needle Remember the Needle Types and
Types and Their Application Their Application
Answer self-check 3.2-3 on Needle Try to answer without looking at

Types and their Application the key answer
Compare Answer to answer key 3.2-

1
Perform task sheet 3.2-3a Set the Show your output to your trainer
Needle to the Sewing Machine for his feedback as you
accomplished them
Rate/Evaluate Performance using 80% of the criteria must be
Performance Criteria Checklist 3.2- obtained by the trainee
3a
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Information Sheet 3.2-1
Types and Functions of Sewing Machine
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Identify the different parts of sewing machine and their functions.
Sewing is a creative and interesting skill. The knowledge of sewing give

a confident feeling when it is applied to the construction of garments. The
earlier method of sewing by hand is not applicable for all stages of garment
making. Therefore, considerable emphasis is given to machine sewing. There
are several machines in the market today, each with its own desirable
features and advantages. Sewing machines range from most basic having
only simple lock stitch to the electronic machines that use advanced
computer technology having various functions for example piping, binding,
ruffling, pleating, darning, hemming and even making buttonholes and
attaching fasteners. A good sewing machine is required to obtain quality
products. One has to be familiar with the characteristics of different types of
machines for selecting appropriate machine, depending upon the ability and
requirements of the person.
A sewing machine is a machine used to stitch fabric and other
materials together with thread. A textile machine used to stitch fabric, cards
and other material with thread. Well-selected sewing machine is essential
for achieving good results. It should be used correctly in accordance with
the job requirements.
Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution

to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing
companies. Since the invention of the first working sewing machine,
generally considered to have been the work of Englishman Thomas Saint in
1790, the sewing machine has greatly improved the efficiency and
productivity of the clothing industry.
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TYPES OF SEWING MACHINE
1) LOCKSTICH SEWING MACHINE
 This is usually used in homes

and sometimes in school.
 is also called “Domestic Sewing
Machine”
 It is run by foot and may also be
converted to electrical power
machine.
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2) HI-SPEED LOCKSTICH
SEWING MACHINE
 This is sometimes called

“Straight Stitching Machine” or
Industrial sewing machine.
 It has automatic lubrication and
used by tailors and
dressmakers.
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3) OVER EDGING MACHINE
 Other companies call it “small

machine”.
 It finishes the raw edges of the
pattern for construction.
4) EMBROIDERY MACHINE
 This is used in making fancy

stitches and in making different
kinds of embroidery stitches on
fabrics for Barong Tagalog,
pillow cases, linen, and other
novelty items.
5) BUTTON HOLER MACHINE
 This is used in making

buttonholes on garments.
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6) BUTTON ATTACHMENT MACHINE
 This is used in attaching buttons

to the garments.
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7) DOUBLE NEEDLE MACHINE
 This is used in the construction

of the different kinds of clothing
especially for the inseam, out
seam and side seam.
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8) BARTACKING MACHINE
 This is used in reinforcing the

opening and closing of pockets.
PARTS OF A SEWING MACHINE AND THEIR FUNCTIONS:
The basic structure of sewing machine is the same whether it is hand-

operated sewing, treadle sewing machine or electric sewing machine. The
basic parts of a sewing are listed below and seen in Fig.1
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1. Spool pin: It is fitted on top of the arm to hold the reel.
2. Thread guide: It holds the thread in position from the spool to the needle.
3. Tension disc: The two concave discs put together with the convex sides
facing each other. The thread passes between the two. The tension of the
thread is adjusted by a spring and nut which increases or decreases
pressure
4. Take up lever: It is a lever fitted to the body of the arm. Its up and down
motion feeds the thread to the needle and tightens the loop formed by the
shuttle.
5. Needle bar: This is a steel rod to hold the needle at one end with the help
of a clamp. Its main function is to give motion to the needle.
6. Bobbin case: This moves into position to catch the top thread and form
the stitch as the needle is lowered into the bobbin chamber.
7. Presser foot: It is fixed to the presser bar to hold the cloth firmly in
position when lowered.
8. Presser foot lifter: A lever attached to the presser bar for raising and
lowering the presser foot.
9. Stitch regulator: This controls the length of the stitch.
10. Bobbin winder: A simple mechanism used for winding thread on the
bobbin.
11. Fly Wheel: When this is made to revolve, it works the mechanism of the
motion
12. Clutch or Thumb Screw: This is in the center of the fly wheel and it
engages and disengages the stitching mechanism.
13. Slide Plate: A rectangular plate, which facilitates the removal of the
bobbin case without lifting the machine.
14. Needle Plate or Throat Plate: A semi-circular disc with a hole to allow
the needle to pass through it.
15. Feed dog: This consists of a set of teeth fitted below the needle plate. It
helps to move the cloth forward while sewing.
16. Face plate: A cover which on removal gives access to the oiling points
on the needle bar, presser bar and take-up lever.
17. Spool pin for bobbin winding: Spool of thread is placed on this at the
time of bobbin winding.
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Self- Check 3.2-1
Multiple Choice: Read each item carefully and choose the letter of the best
answer from the choices below. Write your answer in your
quiz notebook.
1. A machine that is run by foot which may also be converted to electric
power machine is known as __________.
a. hemmer machine
b. high speed over edger
c. lockstitch machine
d. over edging machine
2. A lever attached to the presser bar for raising and lowering the presser
foot.
a. bobbin
b. thread guide
c. presser foot
d. presser foot lifter
3. This is also called ―Domestic Sewing Machine.
a. Button holer machine Lockstitch sewing machine
b. Double needle sewing machine
c.. Hi-speed sewing machine
d. Lockstitch sewing machine
4. This is used in reinforcing the opening and closing of pockets
a. Bartacking machine
b. Embroidery machine
c. Hi-speed locked machine
d. Sewing machine
5. This consists of a set of teeth fitted below the needle plate. It helps to
move the cloth forward while sewing.
a. feed dog
b. fly wheel
c. needle bar
d. presser foot
6. It is fitted on top of the arm to hold the reel.
a. bobbin
b. bobbin winder
c. Spool pin
d. Tension disc
7. This is used in the construction of the different kinds of clothing
especially for the inseam, out seam and side seam.
a. double needle machine
b. embroidery machine
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c. Lockstitch Sewing Machine
d. over edging sewing machine
8. Other companies call it “small machine”.
9. A semi-circular disc with a hole to allow the needle to pass through it.
a. Bobbin winder
b. Fly Wheel
c. Needle Plate
d. Spool pin
10. This controls the length of the stitch
a. Fly Wheel
b. Needle Plate
c. Spool pin
d. Stitch regulator
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ANSWER KEY 3.2-1
1. c
2. d
3. d
4. a
5. a
6. c
7. a
8. d
9. c
10. d
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Machine Troubles and Remedies
1. Operate machine and assess its performance.
2. Identify the common sewing machine problems and troubleshoot

each correctly.
BASIC SEWING MACHINE OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
Setting of Sewing Machine A treadle sewing machine works by foot action

and doesn't require any electricity. If taken care of properly,
an antique treadle sewing machine can sew a better stitch
than its modern counterpart. It takes some practice to keep
your treadle machine sewing smoothly, but once you have
mastered the foot action, you can enjoy sewing and getting a
little exercise at the same time.
SETTING OF SEWING MACHINES
Perfect machine stitching is easy to achieve if you set the machine

properly. This involves threading the upper and lower parts of the sewing
machine. A beginner in dressmaking must learn how to thread the head of
the sewing machine as one of the first steps in becoming a competent
operator.
THREADING THE MACHINE
Each part of the threading mechanism on the head of a sewing

machine has a definite purpose in guiding the thread from the spool to the
needle. The thread must pass through the various guides in a given order so
that the machine will sew properly the desired stitches.
A. ORDER OF THREADING IN THE UPPER PART

1. Spool pin
2. Upper thread guide
3. Between metal disc of tension
4. Thread take up lever
5. Lower thread guide
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6. Needle
STEPS:
1. Put the spool of thread on the spool pin.
2. Bring the thread to the thread guide.
3. Pull the thread between the metal disc of the tension.
4. Bring the thread up to the thread take up lever and raise it as it
goes.
5. Pull the thread down to the thread guide.
6. Pull it through the lower thread guide.
7. Thread the needle.
B. THREADING THE LOWER PART OF LOCKSTITCH SEWING MACHINE

OR TREADLE SEWING MACHINE
STEPS:
1. Remove the bobbin case by pulling on the bobbin case latch.
2. Remove the bobbin from the case and wind the thread .
3. Put the bobbin back to the bobbin case and pull the thread through the
little slot at least 4 inches.
4. Be sure that you hear the bobbin case inside the shuttle.
5. Start the mechanism by rolling the balance wheel forward to get the
thread of the bobbin through the needle.
6. Pull the upper and lower thread together by 4 inches.
7. As you enjoy using your sewing machine, problems cannot be avoided,
but knowing its causes is another challenging skill to develop.
CLASSIFICATIONS OF SEWING MACHINE TROUBLES
If the sewing machine in your laboratory is kept in good condition and

is carefully adjusted and properly threaded, not too many things can go
wrong. But there are certain difficulties that occur during an operation, so
you should know these minor and common problems their causes and
remedies. There are two classifications of sewing machine troubles, namely:
1. Minor sewing machine trouble

This refers to problems that arise involving incorrectly attached
accessories or supplies, unadjusted tensions and accessories that require a
little dusting or oiling.
2. Major sewing machine trouble

This involves replacing or removing damaged spare parts that cause
the sewing machine not to function totally.
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COMMON SEWING MACHINE TROUBLES
The sewing like any other machine, gives troubles of stitching like
thread breaking, uneven stitching, puckering, bending and breaking of
needle, looping of threads, skipping of stitches, etc. Little problems with the
sewing machine can be very irritating and time consuming. They can
happen to even the most experienced seamstress. A person operating the
machine should be able to rectify these and solve the problems. Some of the
common machine problems with its causes and remedies are listed below:
Machine
Causes Remedies
Troubles
1. Machine  insufficient oil  oil the sewing machine
runs  loose screw  tighten loose screw
noisily  thread or dust clogged in  clean the shuttle race before
the shuttle race oiling
2. Machine  belt is too tight  change belt if already old
rotates  insufficient oil  oil the arm shaft
heavily  bearings or shuttle race  clean the shuttle race and
is clogged with dust or bearing, then oil
thread
3. Needle  improper threading  check the threading, change
thread  tight tension the texture of thread and
breaks  thread too coarse attach the needle properly to
 needle is blunt the needle bar (flat side of the
 set incorrectly needle should face the needle
 presser foot not properly bar).
adjusted  use correct presser foot,
 poor quality thread check if presser foot is
 seam maybe too thick secured and properly
or heavy fastened
 bobbin case turns  if seam is too heavy change
 fabric is pulled forcibly needle to correct size
 needle may be bent  check the position of the
 size of needle bobbin case, reset the shuttle
 tension race assembly
 change the bent needle to
avoid needle bending, pull the
upper and lower threads
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toward the rear of the presser
foot after stitching and cut
the threads
 don‘t force the fabric, just
guide it
 change the size of needle
 adjust tension
4. Stitches  bent needle, dull needle  change the needle or correct
skip or wrongly attached positioning
needle  change needle size and
 unmatched size of thread
needle or thread to the  increase pressure on the
texture of fabric presser foot
 no enough pressure on  check the threading
the presser foot
 threading maybe
incorrect
5. Stitches  dull needle  use blunt needle
loop  improper threading  check the threading; if loops
 unbalance tension of the appear under the fabric,
upper and lower threads check the upper threading;
 defective thread take up adjust the upper
lever  tension regulator; if the loops
appear on top of the fabric,
check the lower threading;
the thread may be inserted in
the tension groove of the
bobbin; check also the latch
spring of the bobbin case.
 balance the tension of both
threads
 change the thread take up
lever spring.
6. Upper  improper threading  Correct threading
thread  improperly attached  Attached the needle
breaks needle correctly
 Change to blunt needle
 bent or dull needle
 Reset the upper tension
 tight upper thread regulator
 poor quality thread  Use good quality thread and
 unmatched needle thread size or texture
7. Lower or  improper winding of the  winding the thread in the
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under thread in the bobbin bobbin uniformly
thread  bent or dull needle  change the needle
breaks  poor quality thread  use good quality thread
 incorrectly set feed dog  lower the feed dog if the
 bobbin does not freely fabric is thin; raise the feed
turn dog if the fabric is thick
 too tight bobbin case  check if bobbin is clogged
spring with dirt or thread
 loosen the adjusting screw of
the bobbin case or adjusting
the tension of the upper
thread
8. Seams  too long stitch length for  adjust stitch regulator to
Pucker the fabric correct length
 tension is too tight  adjust the upper and lower
 size of needle and thread tension regulator
do not match  use appropriate size of needle
 too high feed dog and thread
 too heavy pressure on  adjust the height of the feed
the presser foot dog depending on the
thickness or thinness of the
fabric
 lessen pressure on the
presser foot
9. Fabric  feed dog not in proper  adjust the feed dog to
does not sewing position proper sewing position
move  stitch regulator not set  adjust stitch regulator to
on zero desired stitch length
 too tight pressure on  add pressure to presser foot
presser foot by
 adjusting the pressure
regulator screw
10. Fabri  needle may be too big  change the size of needle
c jams in  throat plate  needs round hole plate
machine
CHARACTERISTICS OF GOOD STITCHES
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1. The length of stitch is proportioned to the texture of the fabric.
2. The stitches are the same in length.
3. The stitches appear the same on both right and wrong sides of the fabric.
4. The stitching follows the intended line smoothly and accurately.
5. There are no skipped or broken gaps in stitching.
6. When retraced, it appears as one line of stitching.
7. The stitching has no tangles.
HOW TO MAKE ADJUSTMENT ON THE MACHINE
There are two tension adjustments on the sewing machine - the

upper and the lower. The upper tension controls the thread from the needle,
while the lower tension controls the thread from the bobbin case. These
tensions must be adjusted to suit various fabrics. If the tensions on both
threads are properly adjusted, the threads will lock at the center of the
material and form a correct stitch.
The size of the stitches varies with the type of cloth being sewn. Thin
materials require a short stitch, a light thread, a fine needle, and a tight
tension. Heavier materials require a longer stitch, a coarser thread, a larger
needle, and less tension.
Sewing machine needles become dull through hard usage and also
through regular wear and tear; sometimes, they become bent by improper
use. The condition of the needle should be checked when sewing difficulties
occur. A defective needle should be replaced with a new needle of proper
size. A dull needle will show a flat shiny spot at the very tip when rotated
between the fingers. The straight of a needle can be tested by rolling the
larger end on a flat surface; bent needles will wobble and straight needles
will roll.
A. HOW TO ADJUST TENSION ON THE NEEDLE THREAD
The stitch tension control determines the amount of tension on the

thread as they pass through the machine.
1. Correcting a Loose Top Stitch

When the needle thread tension is too tight, the thread will lie straight
along the upper surface. Thus,
 Lower the presser foot.
 Turn the small thumb nut at the front of the tension discs to the
left (counter clockwise ) to decrease the tension.
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2. Correcting a Loose Bottom Stitch
When the needle tension is too loose , the thread will lie along the
underside of the material.
 Lower the presser foot.
 Check to make sure that the thread is between the tension discs.
 Turn the small thumb nut at the front of the tension disc
(clockwise ) to increase the tension.
 Check the stitch on pieces of scrap material.
B. ADJUSTING TENSION ON BOBBIN THREAD
1. Checking Bobbin Case
 Remove the bobbin from the bobbin case.

 Clean the inside of the bobbin case.
 Remove all particles of lint and dust with
a small point stick.
Note : If the tension spring is bent away from the bobbin

case , or if the ends of the spring near the delivery eye
are damaged, they should be replaced. Consult your
teacher if defective parts are discovered.
2. Adjusting Tension Spring on Bobbin Case

The tension on the bobbin thread is controlled by adjusting the
tension spring on the outside of the bobbin case. It is seldom necessary to
change this adjustment once the tension has been properly set . The
operator will usually be able to correct the stitch by varying the tension on
the needle thread.
a. Correcting a loose bobbin thread

If the tension on the bobbin thread is too loose, the needle
thread will lie straight along the upper surface of the material. Thus,
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 Tighten the tension.
 Turn the regulating screw in the tension spring to the right.
 Test the tension. Thread the bobbin case. Hold the end of the
thread and allow the case to hang freely.
 Check stitch on pieces of scrap material.
b. Correcting a Tight Bobbin Thread

If the tension on the bobbin thread will lie
straight along the underside of the material.
Thus,
 Loosen the tension.
 Turn the regulating screw in the tension
spring slightly to the left.
 Thread the bobbin case and test the
tension.
 Check stitches on pieces of scrap
material.
HOW TO REGULATE THE LENGTH OF THE STITCH
The length of the stitch is regulated

by the stitch regulator on the front side of
the head. Thus,
 Move the stitch regulator downward
to lengthen stitch.
 Move the stitch regulator upward to
shorten stitch.
 Check the length of stitch on pieces
of scrap material.
Note: For normal stitching, set the regulator

at 10 to 12 stitches per inch, or at the
number 3 for metric scale machines.
HOW TO REGULATE THE PRESSURE ON THE MATERIAL
The pressure on the material is regulated by adjusting the screw on

the top of the machine. Thus,
 Turn the adjusting screw to the right to increase the pressure.
 Turn the adjusting screw to the left to decrease the pressure.
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 Check the pressure by stitching on pieces of scrap material of the
same weight .
Note: A pressure that is too heavy will cause the machine to run hard and will
leave the print of the feed on fine materials.
Self- Check 3.2-2

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Identification:
I .Directions: Write letter Y ( Y ) if the statement is a good characteristic of

stitches and letter X ( X ) if it is not.
________1. The stitches have no tangles.

________ 2. The stitching follows the intended line smoothly and accurately.
________ 3. The length of stitch is not proportioned
________ 4. There are skipped or broken gaps in stitching.
________ 5. The stitches appear on both right and wrong sides of the fabric.
II. Directions: Arrange the steps in threading the upper and lower parts of
the sewing machine. Write number 1 for the first step, 2 for the second step,
and so on.
A. STEPS IN THREADING THE UPPER PART
_____ Pull the thread down to the thread guide.

_____ Put the spool of thread on the spool pin.
_____ Pull the thread between the metal disc of the tension.
_____ Pull it through the lower thread guide.
_____ Bring the thread to the thread guide.
_____ Bring the thread up to the thread take up lever and raise it as it goes.
_____ Thread the needle.
B. STEPS IN THREADING THE LOWER PART

_____Remove the bobbin case by pulling on the bobbin case latch.
_____ Pull the upper and lower thread together by four inches.
_____ Remove the bobbin from the case and wind the thread.
_____ Start the mechanism by rolling the balance wheel forward to get the
thread of the bobbin through the needle.
_____ Be sure that you hear the case being locked upon inserting the bobbin
case inside the shuttle.
_____ Put the bobbin back to the bobbin case and pull the thread through
the little slot at least four inches.
ANSWER KEY 3.2-2

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I.
1. Y
2. Y
3. X
4. X
5. Y
II.
A.
5
1
3
6
2
4
7
B.
1
6
2
5
4
3
TASK SHEET 3.2-2a
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Title: Conduct Sample Run
Performance Objective: Given required supplies and materials you

should be able to:
1. Conduct sample run properly.
Supplies/Materials : Scrap material, thread, machine needle, pair of

scissors
Equipment : Sewing Machine
Steps/Procedure:
1. Get your scrap material.
2. Select appropriate size of thread and needle.
3. Thread the upper and lower part of machine
4. Adjust the tension and pressure of machine
5. Adjust the length of stitches
6. Conduct sample run
Assessment Method:
Oral Questioning
Demonstration
Performance Criteria Checklist 3.2-3a
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CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Did you follow the procedure on conducting
sample run correctly?
2. Did you matched the length of stitch to the kind
of material?
3. Did you adjust the pressure and tension based
on the material used?
4. Did you come up with right and even stitches?
5. Did you finished on time?
6. Did you needed assistance on conducting sample
run?

Needles Types and Their Application
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1. Identify the needles types and their application.
2. Replace needle to the machine correctly.
3. Select thread and needles for fabrics precisely.
PREPARATION FOR STITCHING

Before starting actual machining, you should check that the needle of
the machine is of correct size, is sharp and correctly set. The bobbin should
be evenly set. Briefly, the various steps of prep reparation are:
• Winding the bobbin
• Upper Threading
• Drawing the bobbin thread
• Tension adjustments
• Pressure and feed adjustments
• Selection of thread and needle
A perfect stitch can be obtained only when the thread selected is

suitable to the material to be stitched and the needle is of the correct size.
For stitching on delicate thin fabrics, use fine thread and fine needle. For
heavy fabrics, needles and thread size should be larger. The following Table
1 will be a guide to help selection of appropriate needle and thread sizes.
Types of Threads
The natural fibre threads available in the market are cotton and silk.
Synthetic threads are usually made from polyester and terylene. Threads
whether natural or synthetic are produced in various thickness: higher the
number, finer is the thread and smaller the number, coarser is the thread. It
is important to remember that the same thread should be used for the
bobbin and top spool.
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Selection of needles
Machine needles are selected according to the weight and other

characteristics of the fabric, as well as the thread type being used for
construction. Generally, a needle should be fine enough to penetrate the
fabric without damaging it and yet have an eye, which is big enough so that
the thread does not fray or break. Needles come in various sizes, from very
fine (size 9) for light weight fabrics to thick (size 18) for very heavy weight
and dense fabrics.
Four Types of Sewing Machine Needles

1. A sharp, or general purposes, point is use for woven fabrics.
2. A ball-point, is used for knits and stretch fabric. The slightly rounded
tip allows the needle to slip between fabric yarns.
3. A wedge-shaped point, is used for sewing leathers and vinyl’s.
4. Twin or double needles, are available for decorative stitching
How to change a sewing machine needle
Sewing machine needles are not a purchase for life!

They should be changed for every 8 hours of continuous sewing, and for
each new project or different fabric. They need to be the right choice of
needle for that fabric. If sew chiffon straight after sewing denim without
changing the needle, you will very likely snag the chiffon.
Sewing machine needles are generally “universal” for most domestic
machines, but it is worth checking your manual to ensure you get the right
needle for your machine. In general the larger the needle number, the
thicker and bigger the needle is.
CHANGING NEEDLE
STEPS:
1. Raise the needle
to the highest
position by
turning the
hand wheel.
2. Loosen the tamp
screw on the
needle clamp,
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3. Remove the old needle.
4. Insert the top of the needle firmly up in the

needle clamp
5. Tighten screw
securely.
Self- Check 3.2-3
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TRUE OR FALSE: Write T if the statement is correct and write F if the
statement is wrong.
________________1. Before starting actual machining, you should check that

the needle of the machine is of correct size, is sharp and correctly set.
________________2. A perfect stitch can be obtained only when the thread
selected is suitable to the material to be stitched and the needle is of the
correct size.
________________3. Needles come in various sizes, from very fine (size 11) for
light weight fabrics.
________________4. For heavy weight and dense fabrics thick (size 18) needle
must be used.
________________5. Machine needles are selected according to the weight
and other characteristics of the fabric, as well as the thread type being used
for construction.
ANSWER KEY 3.2-3
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1. T
2. T
3. F
4. T
5. T
TASK SHEET 3.2-3a

Title: Replacing Needle to the Sewing Machine
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Performance Objective: Given required supplies and materials you
should be able to:
1. Set the needle to the sewing machine safely and correctly.
Supplies/Materials : Needles, Flat Screw Driver
Equipment : Sewing Machine
Steps/Procedure:
1. Raise the needle to the highest position by turning the hand wheel.
2. Loosen the tamp screw on the needle clamp,
3. Remove the old needle.
4. Insert the top of the needle firmly up in the needle clamp
5. Tighten screw securely.
Assessment Method:
Oral questioning
Demonstration
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Performance Criteria Checklist 3.2-3a
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Did you follow the instructions on replacing
needle to the sewing machine?
2. Did you replace the needle accurately and safely?
3. Did you needed assistance in setting needle to
the sewing machine?
4. Did you finished on time?
Document No
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Evidence Plan
Competency Dressmaking NC II
standard:
Unit of Sew Casual Apparel
competency:
Ways in which evidence will be collected:
Demonstration & Questioning

Observation & Questioning
[tick the column]
Third party Report
Portfolio
Written
The evidence must show that the trainee…
1. Machine parts are cleaned and lubricated in
accordance with company’s requirements and  
manufacturer’s cleaning and lubricating
instructions.
2. Machines are threaded in accordance with the   
company’s work procedure
3. Machines are set-up and adjusted in   
accordance with fabric specification.
4. Speed of machine and work handling are
controlled in accordance with company’s  
procedures.
5. Minor machines problem or fault is identified
and repaired in accordance to manufacturer’s  
manuals.
6. Machine operations is monitored.  
7. Company’s health and safety practices and
procedures are followed as per standard  
operating procedures
NOTE: *Critical aspects of competency
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TABLE OF SPECIFICATION
Objectives/Content Percentage of
Knowledge Comprehension Application
area/Topics test

Types and Functions
of Sewing Machine 10% 10% 20%

Machine Troubles
and Remedies 10% 10% 30% 50%

Needle Types and
10% 10% 10% 30%
Their Application

TOTAL 30% 30% 40% 100%

ITEM ANALYSIS
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Objectives/Content # of test
Knowledge Comprehension Application
area/Topics item
Types and Functions

3 3 6
of Sewing Machine
Machine Troubles
3 3 9 15
and Remedies
Needle Types and

3 3 3 9
Their Application
TOTAL 9 9 12 30 Items
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Written Test
Name:___________________________ Date:_________________ Score:___________
Multiple Choice.
Direction: Choose the letter of the best answer.
1. This is also called ―Domestic Sewing Machine.

a. Button holer machine Lockstitch sewing machine
b. Double needle sewing machine
c.. Hi-speed sewing machine
d. Lockstitch sewing machine
2. This consists of a set of teeth fitted below the needle plate. It helps to
move the cloth forward while sewing.
a. feed dog
b. fly wheel
c. needle bar
d. presser foot
3. It is fitted on top of the arm to hold the reel.
a. bobbin
b. bobbin winder
c. Spool pin
d. Tension disc
4. One of these can be your remedy if the stitches skip.
a. Adjust tension
b. balance the tension of both threads
c. change the needle or correct positioning
d. don’t force the fabric, just guide it
5. One of these can be your remedy if the stitches loop.
a. Adjust tension
c. change the needle or correct positioning
d. don’t force the fabric, just guide it
6. If the tension spring is bent away from the bobbin case, or if the ends of
the spring near the delivery eye are damages, they should be
___________________.
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a. Repaired
b. Removed
c. Replaced
d. Used
7. The first step in threading the lower part of machine is.
a. Be sure that you hear the bobbin case inside the shuttle.
b. Pull the upper and lower thread together by 4 inches.
c. Remove the bobbin case by pulling on the bobbin case latch.
d. Start the mechanism by rolling the balance wheel forward to get
the thread of the bobbin through the needle.
8. The causes of these machine trouble are insufficient oil, loose screw and
thread or dust clogged in the shuttle race.
a. Machine rotates heavily

b. Machine runs noisily
c. Needle thread breaks
d. Seams Pucker
9. This holds the needle in place.
a. Face plate
b. Needle plate
c. Screw
d. Spool pin
10. In setting a needle, why is there a need to give the needle a little tug at
the base?
a. To make sure it is secure

b. To make sure it is worn out
c. To move it down
d. To move it up
11. Needles should be changed for how many hours of continuous sewing?
a. 5
b. 6
c. 7
d. 8
12. What size of needle should be used in a finely woven fabric?
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a. 9-11
b. 11-14
c. 14-16
d. 16-18
13. The finest size of needle is.
a. 9
b. 11
c. 14
d. 16
14. One of these can be the remedy if fabric jams in machine.
a. change the size of needle

b. check if bobbin is clogged with dirt or thread
c. loosen the adjusting screw of the bobbin case or adjusting the
tension of the upper thread
d. lower the feed dog if the fabric is thin; raise the feed dog if the
fabric is thick
15. This is the first step in threading the upper part of machine.
a. Bring the thread to the thread guide.
b. Bring the thread up to the thread take up lever and raise it as it

goes.
c. Put the spool of thread on the spool pin.
d. Thread the needle
16. Which among the choices is not the remedies when the upper thread
breaks?
a. Attached the needle correctly

c. Change to blunt needle
d. Correct threading
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17. Which among the choices is not the remedy when the fabric does not
move?
a. add pressure to presser foot by

b. adjust the feed dog to proper sewing position
c. adjusting the pressure regulator screw
d. change the size of needle
18. The cause of these machine trouble are dull needle, improper threading,
unbalance tension of the upper and lower threads, defective thread take up
lever.
a. fabric jams in machine

b. Stiches loops
c. Stitches skip
d. Upper thread breaks
19. This is used in reinforcing the opening and closing of pockets. a
a. Bartacking machine
b. Embroidery machine
c. Hi-speed locked machine
d. Sewing machine
20. Other companies call it “small machine”.
21. This controls the length of the stitch.
a. Fly Wheel
b. Needle Plate
c. Spool pin
d. Stitch regulator
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22. The first step in changing the needle is to.
a. Look for a screw or knob in the area above your sewing machine's
foot, near the top of the needle.
b. Poke the needle point down through the presser foot
c. Raise the needle to the highest position by turning the hand wheel
d. Tighten the knob that holds it in place.
23. This can become dull through hard usage and also through regular wear
and tear.
a. Needle
b. Presser foot
c. Tension
d. Tension disc
24. One of these is a good characteristics of good stitches.
a. The stitches are not the same in length

b. The stitches has tangles
c. The stitching follows the intended line smoothly and accurately
d. When retraced, it appears as two line of stitching
25. For heavy weight and dense fabrics, these size of needle must be used.
a. 9
b. 11
c. 14
d. 18
26. These can be obtained only when the thread selected is suitable to the
material to be stitched and the needle is of the correct size.
a. Double stitch
b. Single stitch
c. Triple stitch
d. Perfect stitch
27. This is the two classifications of sewing machine troubles.
a. Machine trouble, remedies

b. Minor, major
c. Needle thread break, tight tension
d. Tight tension, thread coarse
28. How many tension adjustments on the sewing machine?

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a. 1
b. 2
c. 3
d. 4
29. The causes of these machine trouble were belt is too tight, insufficient
oil and bearings or shuttle race is clogged with dust or thread.
a. Machine rotates heavily

b. Machine runs noisily
c. Needle thread breaks
d. Seams Pucker
30. These are selected according to the weight and other characteristics of
the fabric, as well as the thread type being used for construction.
a. Machine needle
b. Natural fiber
c. Stitch length
d. Winding the bobbin
Answer Key
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1. d 16. b
2. a 17. d
3. c 18. c
4. c 19. a
5. b 20. d
6. c 21. d
7. c 22. c
8. b 23. a
9. c 24. c
10. a 25. d
11. d 26. d
12. a 27. b
13. a 28. b
14. a 29. a
15. c 30. a
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Performance Test
Specific Instruction for the Candidate
Qualification Dressmaking NC II
Unit of Competency Sew Casual Apparel
General Instruction: To conduct sample run.
Specific Instruction:
1. Follow the instructions on how to conduct sample run.
2. Finish the work on time.
3. Do the task without the assistance of anyone.
List of Tools: pair of scissors, scrap material, needle
List of Equipment: Sewing Machine
List of Materials: Scrap material, thread, machine needle
Document No
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Performance Criteria Checklist for Performance Test
Name:______________________ Date of Assessment:____________
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Did you conduct sample run correctly?
2. Did you finished your work on time?
3. Did you need any assistance in doing your task?
QUESTIONING TOOL
Satisfactory
Questions to probe the candidate’s underpinning knowledge
response
Extension/Reflection Questions Yes No
1. How will you ensure that the sewing machine is free from
problems or troubles?  
2. How to make adjustment on the machine?  

Safety Questions
3. What will you do if the tension spring is bent away from the  
bobbin case?
4. Why we need to follow safety rules?  
Contingency Questions
5. What will you do if the stitches loops?  
6. How will you act if the pressure on the material is not  
regulated?
Job Role/Environment Questions  
7. What is the importance of 5’s?  
8. Why we need to segregate waste materials?  
Rules and Regulations  
9. What are the steps in threading the upper part of machine?  
10. What are the steps in threading the lower part of machine?  
The candidate’s underpinning  Satisfactory  Not
knowledge was: Satisfactory
Expected Answer for Questioning Tool
Satisfactory
Questions to probe the candidate’s underpinning knowledge
response
Extension/Reflection Questions Yes No
1. If it produces a good stitches.  
2. There are two tension adjustments on the sewing machine -
the upper and the lower. These tensions must be adjusted to
suit various fabrics. If the tensions on both threads are properly  
adjusted, the threads will lock at the center of the material and
form a correct stitch.
Safety Questions
3. If the tension spring is bent away from the bobbin case, or if  
the ends of the spring near the delivery eye are damaged,
they should be replaced. Consult your teacher if defective
parts are discovered.
4. To avoid accident in the workshop  
Contingency Questions
5.  
 use blunt needle
 check the threading; if loops appear under the fabric,
check the upper threading; adjust the upper
 tension regulator; if the loops appear on top of the fabric,
check the lower threading; the thread may be inserted in
the tension groove of the bobbin; check also the latch
spring of the bobbin case.
 balance the tension of both threads
 change the thread take up lever spring.
6. The pressure on the material is regulated by adjusting the  
screw on the top of the machine. Thus,
 Turn the adjusting screw to the right to increase the
pressure.
 Turn the adjusting screw to the left to decrease the
pressure.
 Check the pressure by stitching on pieces of scrap
material of the same weight.
Job Role/Environment Questions  
7. To have clean and organized workshop.  
8. So we can disposed waste properly.  
Rules and Regulations  
9. Steps in threading the upper part of machine:  
1. Put the spool of thread on the spool pin.
2. Bring the thread to the thread guide.
3. Pull the thread between the metal disc of the tension.
4. Bring the thread up to the thread take up lever and
raise it as it goes.
5. Pull the thread down to the thread guide.
6. Pull it through the lower thread guide.
7. Thread the needle.
11. Steps in threading the lower part of machine:  
1. Remove the bobbin case by pulling on the bobbin
case latch.
2. Remove the bobbin from the case and wind the
thread .
3. Put the bobbin back to the bobbin case and pull
the thread through the little slot at least 4 inches.
4. Be sure that you hear the bobbin case inside the
shuttle.
5. Start the mechanism by rolling the balance wheel
forward to get the thread of the bobbin through
the needle.
6. Pull the upper and lower thread together by 4
inches.
7. As you enjoy using your sewing machine,
problems cannot be avoided, but knowing its
causes is another challenging skill to develop.
The candidate’s underpinning  Satisfactory  Not

knowledge was: Satisfactory
Inventory of Training Resources
Qualification Title: Dressmaking NC II
Resources for Skills practice of Competency #1 ____________________________

 Supplies and Materials As per TR As per Remarks
Inventory
Pencils 25 pcs 25 pcs Complete
Pattern Paper 25 rolls 25 rolls Complete
Tailor’s Chalk 25 pcs 25 pcs Complete
Dressmaker’s Tracing Paper 25 packs 20 packs Incomplete
Thread (assorted colors) 75 cones 80 cones Complete
Buttons 2 gross 5 gross Complete
Zipper 8” 75 pcs 70 pcs Incomplete
Record Book 25 pcs 25 pcs Complete
Zipper 20” 75 pcs 70 pcs Incomplete
Fusible Interlining 12.5 yds 13 yds Complete
Band Roll 2 rolls 3 rolls Complete
Hook and Eye (big) 1 box 1 box Complete
Hook and Eye (Small) 1 box 1 box Complete
Machine Oil 3 gals 3 gals Complete
Eraser 25 pcs 25 pcs Complete
Needle DB x1 # 14 8 packs 8 packs Complete
Needle DB x1 # 11 4 packs 3 packs Incomplete
Needle DCx1 # 14 3 packs 3 packs Complete
Needle DPx5# 14 3 packs 2 packs Incomplete
Hand Needle 3 packs 3 packs Complete
Fabrics for Blouse
Fabric for Skirt
Fabric for Dress
Clothes line 10 m 10 m Complete
Pin 2 boxes 2 boxes Complete
 Tools As per TR As per Remarks
Inventory
Tape Measure 25 pcs 30 pcs Complete
Hip- curve 25 pcs 25 pcs Complete
Meter stick 10 pcs 10 pcs Complete
French curve 25 pcs 25 pcs Complete
Scissors 25 pairs 25 pairs Complete
Cutting Shears 25 pairs 25 pairs Complete
L-square 25 pcs 25 pcs Complete
Transparent ruler with grid 24 25 pcs 25 pcs Complete
Basin/Pail 10 pcs 10 pcs Complete
Sewing Box 25 pcs 25 pcs Complete
Tracing wheel 25 pcs 20 pcs Incomplete
Hanger 10 doz 10 doz Complete
Screw Driver flat (medium) 25 pcs 25 pcs Complete
Screw Driver flat (small) 25 pcs 25 pcs Complete
Triangle 16” 45 x 90 25 pcs 20 pcs Incomplete
Hand Spray 5 pcs 2 pcs Incomplete
Seam Ripper 25 pcs 25 pcs Complete
Pin Cushion 25 pcs 25 pcs Complete
 Equipment As per TR As per Remarks
Inventory
Single Needle Lockstitch Machines 25 units 25 units Complete
High Speed Machines Attachment 10 units 10 units Complete
3 Threads over lock machine 5 units 5 units Complete
Flat Iron 5 units 5 units Complete
Steam Press 5 units 4 units Incomplete
Ironing Board 5 units 5 units Complete
Cutting Table 10 units 6 units Incomplete
Stools 25 pcs 25 pcs Complete
Button Holer 1 pc N/A N/A

Body Form/odel 10 units 7 units Incomplete
Calculator 25 pcs 20 pcs Incomplete
Hanger Rack 3 units 3 units Complete
Bobbin Case 25 pcs 30 pcs Complete
Bobbin Spool 50 pcs 50 pcs Complete
Button holer Attachments 5 pcs N/A N/A
Zipper foot 5 pcs 10 pcs Complete
Zipper foot invisible 5 pcs 10 pcs Complete
Shirring foot 5 pcs 5 pcs Complete
Sleeve Board/Ham 10 pcs 10 pcs Complete
Display Cabinet 2 pcs 2 pcs Complete
Note: In the remarks section, remarks may include for repair, for
replenishment, for reproduction, for maintenance etc.
Prepared By: Krystyn Camille A. Madrigal
WORKSHOP LAYOUT

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COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIALS

SECTOR: Garments SECTOR

UNIT OF COMEPETENCY: SEW CASUAL APPAREL

MODULE TITLE: SEW CASUAL APPAREL

PREPARED BY: KRYSTYN CAMILLE A. MADRIGAL

Sorsogon National Agricultural School

No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code

Drafting and cutting

Prepare and cut Preparing and cutting

Apply finishing Applying finishing

 Read information sheets and complete the self-checks. Suggested

UNIT OF COMPETENCY: SEW CASUAL APPAREL

MODULE TITLE: SEWING CASUAL APPAREL

NOMINAL DURATION: 80 hours

1. Types and Functions of Sewing Machine

1. Machine parts are cleaned and lubricated in accordance with

The participants will have access to:

PREPARE SEWING MACHINE FOR OPERATION

Learning Activities Special Instructions

Compare Answer to Answer Key 3.2-

Answer self-check 3.2-2 on Machine Try to answer without looking at

Compare Answer to answer key 3.2-

Answer self-check 3.2-3 on Needle Try to answer without looking at

Compare Answer to answer key 3.2-

Sewing is a creative and interesting skill. The knowledge of sewing give

Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution

1) LOCKSTICH SEWING MACHINE

 This is usually used in homes

 This is sometimes called

 Other companies call it “small

 This is used in making fancy

5) BUTTON HOLER MACHINE

 This is used in making

 This is used in attaching buttons

 This is used in the construction

 This is used in reinforcing the

PARTS OF A SEWING MACHINE AND THEIR FUNCTIONS:

The basic structure of sewing machine is the same whether it is hand-

2. Identify the common sewing machine problems and troubleshoot

BASIC SEWING MACHINE OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE

Setting of Sewing Machine A treadle sewing machine works by foot action

SETTING OF SEWING MACHINES

Perfect machine stitching is easy to achieve if you set the machine

THREADING THE MACHINE

Each part of the threading mechanism on the head of a sewing

A. ORDER OF THREADING IN THE UPPER PART

B. THREADING THE LOWER PART OF LOCKSTITCH SEWING MACHINE

CLASSIFICATIONS OF SEWING MACHINE TROUBLES

If the sewing machine in your laboratory is kept in good condition and

1. Minor sewing machine trouble

2. Major sewing machine trouble

CHARACTERISTICS OF GOOD STITCHES

HOW TO MAKE ADJUSTMENT ON THE MACHINE

There are two tension adjustments on the sewing machine - the

A. HOW TO ADJUST TENSION ON THE NEEDLE THREAD

The stitch tension control determines the amount of tension on the

1. Correcting a Loose Top Stitch

B. ADJUSTING TENSION ON BOBBIN THREAD

1. Checking Bobbin Case

 Remove the bobbin from the bobbin case.

Note : If the tension spring is bent away from the bobbin

2. Adjusting Tension Spring on Bobbin Case

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