Little Weebee–

© 2018 Text and images by Laura Tegg, all rights reserved. Finished products created with this pattern may be used for
commercial sale. Design credit should be given to Laura Tegg when finished products are listed for sale.

I, Laura Tegg have made every effort to ensure that the instructions in this pattern are accurate and safe, and therefore cannot
accept liability for any resulting injury, damage or loss to persons or property, however it may arise. Names of manufacturers and
product ranges are provided for the information of readers, with no intention to infringe copyright or trademarks.

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Made using aran weight yarn, a 3mm hook and my personal gauge, these Little Weebee doll’s
stand at just under 5 inches tall. Made from the toes to the top of the head in one go! Only the
arms need sewing on Other yarn weights and hooks can of course be used to create smaller
or larger dolls.
~•~
The following FREE clothing patterns will fit these Little Weebee bunny dolls:
 Bubble Hem Dress
 Removable Mermaid Tail
 Vest
 Trousers – to make a top to go with these, you can use the bodice from the above Bubble
Hem Dress
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The following paid patterns are also available to fit your dolls:
 Wardrobe Essentials Part One – contains 12 items of clothing & a hair cap
 Wardrobe Essentials Part Two – contains 12 items of clothing & a hair cap
 Little Weebee Vampires - contains 8 items of clothing and 2 hair caps
 Carol Singers - contains 10 items of clothing & 3 hair caps
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You can find my all of my Weebee dolls and outfit patterns, in my Ravelry store here:
http://www.ravelry.com/designers/laura-tegg

Make sure to join the Weebee Appreciation Society!

Facebook group dedicated to my Weebee doll patterns with over 8,700
amazingly friendly and helpful members!

Useful info for those who crochet left handed

Please take a look at this site for hints and tips about following crochet patterns if you are left
handed https://www.anniescatalog.com/crochet/content.html?content_id=554&type_id=T
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Terminology: US
Other items needed:
Stitch marker Stuffing
Tapestry needle Pair of 12mm safety eyes

Abbreviations:
Chain (ch) Single Crochet Front Loop Only (scflo)
Loop (lp) Space (sp)
Magic ring (MR) Skip (skp)
Next (nxt) Stitch (st)
Round (rnd) Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc) Yarn Over (yo)
~•~

Please read as this should be used throughout the pattern!

Invisible single crochet decrease
Sc2tog: Insert hook in front loop only of first st, insert hook in front loop only of second st (3 lps on
hook), yo and draw through 2 lps, yo and complete sc as normal. Link to Youtube video (useful
from 1min 48 in): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HWGl0Ah-Y0
Front Post Double Crochet
Fpdc: Yo, insert hook from the front to the back around the post of the dc on the previous row.
Complete as for regular dc.
Back Post Double Crochet
Bpdc: Yo, insert hook from the back to the front around the post of the dc on the previous row.
Complete as for regular dc.
A useful blog page with video for front and back post double crochet can be found here.
Twisted Single Crochet (tw sc)
Stitches are worked from the right to the left. Insert hook into st, yo, pull through a loop (2 loops on
hook, make them loose), rotate the hook towards yourself and around 360 degrees, yo and draw
through two loops on hook. Here’s a link to a video which shows how to do it:
http://www.gosyo.co.jp/siteimage/kagi_ami/32/32_kagi.wmv. If this link does not work there are
now videos on YouTube. This st is very similar to the crab st, so if you find it difficult to work, you
can substitute it for the crab st.
Pattern Start

Legs – make 2
Legs are crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the
rounds from the foot up. You will need a stitch marker to keep
track of where the beginning of each round starts; move the
marker up to the first stitch of the next round after finishing
the previous one.
Rnd 1: Using chosen colour (I used white), MR, ch1 (not a
st), work 8sc (8sts)
Rnd 2: Sc in first st, 2sc in next st, *sc in next st, 2sc in next
st, repeat from * around (12sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in the back loop only of each st around (12sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around (12sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in each of the first 4sts, ^^sc2tog x 2, sc in each of the remaining 4sts (10sts)
^^Please see Special Stitches as all sc2tog’s within this pattern should be worked as
invisible decreases – if you’re used to doing invisible decreases but find that you get little lumps
when you work them please watch the video to make sure that you’re doing them this particular
way as they should be barely noticeable.
Rnd 6: Sc in each of the first 4sts, sc2tog, sc in each of the remaining 4sts (9sts)
Rnds 7 - 9: Sc in each st around (9sts)
Fasten off first leg but not on second – you should be at the back of this leg, stuff the feet and legs
so the legs have a nicely shaped little foot (you may need to use the opposite end of your crochet
hook to help you do this) and continue on to the…
Body
Continue to crochet in continuous spirals without joining the rounds, using a stitch marker to keep
track of where the beginning of each round starts.
If you struggle with this next part there is a joining legs video tutorial for my Standard
Sized Doll on the Weebee and Friends YouTube channel which works in the same way but
obviously has different stitch counts but it should help you to understand how the legs are
joined: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHyfhAHhDS8
Rnd 10: Work 3 sc then take first leg (fastened off) and place it next to the one on your hook so
that both feet are facing the same way, then sc into the last st worked on the last round on the first
leg, continue to work 8 further sts around this leg and then the remaining 6sts around the leg you
started with (18sts)
There may be a small hole between the legs when joined. When you have finished the doll,
simply take a small piece of yarn and with your darning needle sew the hole closed.
Rnd 11: *Sc in each of the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, repeat from * around (21sts)
Rnd 12: *Sc in each of the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 13: *Sc in each of the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, repeat from * around (27sts)
Rnds 14 & 15: Sc in each st around (27sts)
Stuff the body firmly as you work up towards the head.
Rnd 16: *Sc in each of the next 7sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 17: Sc in each st around (24st)
Rnd 18: *Sc in each of the next 2sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (18sts)
Rnd 19: Sc in each st around (18sts)
Rnd 20: *Sc in the next st, sc2tog, repeat from * around (12sts)
Rnd 21 & 22: Sc in each st around (12sts)
Do not fasten off and continue on to the…
Head
Again continue to crochet in continuous spirals without joining the rounds, using a stitch marker to
keep track of where the beginning of each round starts.
NEW! Completely Optional Neck Definition & Head Support Round
Work a round of LOOSE slip stitches into the back loops only of
Round 22…creates these unworked front loops below (in grey)…
Then work the next round (Round
23) beneath those front loops just as
you would normally over the top of the
round of sl sts just made…this creates
an extra thick round that defines the
neck and helps to support the head.

Rnd 23: Work 2sc in each st around (24sts)

Rnd 24: *Sc in each of the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, repeat from * around (30sts)
Rnd 25: *Sc in each of the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, repeat from * around (36sts)
Rnds 26 - 33: Sc in each st around (36sts) – if using safety eyes place them between rounds 28
and 29, making sure that they are placed 5sts apart
Stuff firmly as you work, before the opening gets too small. Push stuffing from the head down into
the neck to ensure your doll is firmly stuffed throughout.
Rnd 34: *Sc in each of the next 4sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (30sts)
Rnd 35: *Sc in each of the next 3sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 36: *Sc in each of the next 2sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (18sts)
Rnd 37: *Sc in the next st, sc2tog, repeat from * around (12sts)
Rnd 38: Sc2tog around (6sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail, weave yarn through remaining stitches with a darning needle and pull to
close the hole and hide any loose ends.
Arms and Paws – make 2
Crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds from hand to shoulder. Use a stitch
marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts.
Rnd 1: Using chosen colour (I used white), MR, ch1 (not a st) and work 8sc (8sts)
Rnd 2: Work 3hdc in the first st (creates hand shaping), sc in each of the remaining 7sts (10sts)
Rnd 3: Sc2tog, sc in each of the remaining 8sts (9sts)
Rnd 4: Sc2tog, sc in each of the remaining 7sts (8sts)
Rnds 5 - 7: Sc in each st around (8sts)
Stuff arm – putting more in the hand and less at the top.
Rnd 8: *Sc in each of the next 2sts, sc2tog, repeat from * once more (6sts)
Fasten off leaving a long tail, then use a whip stitch to sew the top of the arm closed before sewing
the arm into place 2 rows beneath the neck.
Rosy Cheeks (Optional)
To add colour to your bunny’s/doll’s cheeks, you can use ordinary blusher and a blusher brush,
sweep it beneath the eye at an angle up towards the top of the head.
Bunny Ears – make 2
Ear is crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds from the tip of the ear down. You
will need a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts; move the
marker up to the first stitch of the nxt round after finishing the previous one.
Rnd 1: Using chosen colour (I used white), MR, ch1 (not a st), work 8sc (8sts)
Rnd 2: Sc into each st around (8sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in the first st, 2sc in the next st, *sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, repeat from *
around (12sts)
Rnd 4: Sc into each st around (12sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in each of the first 2sts, 2sc in the next st, *sc in each of the next 2sts, 2sc in the next
st, repeat from * around (16sts)
Rnds 6 – 10: Sc into each st around (16sts)
Sl st into first st and fasten off leaving a good length of yarn for sewing.

You now need to attach the ears to the top of the head. Start by
threading the tail you left onto your darning needle and then pinch the
bottom of the ear together.

Turn the ear so that you can use the tail to sew through the loops on
either side at the bottom to close it up and shape the ear.

Continue using the tail to attach the ear to the head.

To add colour to your bunny ears, you can use ordinary blusher and a
blusher brush, sweep it from the bottom of the inner ear upwards.
Tail
Tail is worked in joined rounds, at the end of each round join the last st to the first with a sl st.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (not a st from now on), work 6sc, join (as above) (6sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, work 2sc into each st around, join (12sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, sc into each st around, join (12sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, sc2tog around, join (6sts)
Fasten off leaving a tail, weave tail in and out through the six remaining stitches and pull the hole
closed.
Sew to Little Bunny’s bottom.
Face
Taking a length of black yarn, embroider a Y shaped nose as shown in
this photo.
If you start and end in the same place with your yarn you can easily
secure the work and hide the tails in the body.
I demonstrate this technique in this video on the Weebee and Friends
YouTube channel where I show how I add eyelashes to my dolls.

~•~

Legs and Body

To make a cute Little Weebee doll in a bunny costume work rounds 1 –
22 of above Bunny Mod Pattern above with colour chosen for body
(green and pink in the examples shown in this pattern).

Head
Fasten off the yarn for the body and using yarn colour chosen
for the skin tone, then work a round of LOOSE slip stitches into the
back loops only of Round 22…creates these unworked front loops
below (in grey)…
Then work the next round (Round 23)
beneath those front loops just as you would
normally over the top of the round of sl sts just
made…this creates an extra thick round that
defines the neck and helps to support the
head.
Then work rounds 23 – 38 as per the Bunny
mod pattern.
 Arms and Hands
Work rounds 1-3 as per the arms and paws on the Bunny mod
in skin tone colour.
Change colour for the body (pink & green in example).
To achieve the neat colour change as pictured here, work a
round of LOOSE slip stitches into the back loops only of
round 3. This round of slip stitches never classes as a round.
Then work round 4 into the back loops only of those slip
stitches (work the sc2tog at the start of the round as per the
invisible decrease at the start of the pattern but work into the
two back loops). You can see me demonstrating this kind of
colour change in this video on the Weebee and Friend’s
YouTube channel here.
Continue to work rounds 5-8 as per the arms and paws on the
Bunny mod and sew onto the body in the same fashion.
~•~
Optional: Make Hair Cap
This is completely optional as the doll looks adorable with just
the hat, and the choice of hair cap is completely yours too (see
links for all the options at the start of this pattern).
For my girl doll (in pink) I made the hair cap which comes with
the free Little Weebee Doll pattern and using a smaller hook I
made the pigtails from this free pattern.
For my boy doll (in green) I used the boy hair cap included in
the Little Weebee Carol Singers pattern.

~•~
Beanie
Crocheted in joined rounds. At the end of each round join the last st to the top of the first with a sl
st.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (not a st from now on), work 12hdc, join (as above) (12sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, work 2hdc in each st around, join (24sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, hdc in each of the first 3sts, 2hdc in the next st, *hdc in each of the next 3sts, 2hdc in
the next st, repeat from * around, join (30sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, hdc in each of the first 4sts, 2hdc in the next st, *hdc in each of the next 4sts, 2hdc in
the next st, repeat from * around, join (36sts)
Rnd 5: Ch1, hdc in each of the first 5sts, 2hdc in the next st, *hdc in each of the next 5sts, 2hdc in
the next st, repeat from * around, join (42sts)
Rnds 6 & 7: Ch1, hdc in each st around, join (42sts)
Rnd 8: Ch2 (not a st from now on), dc in the back loop only of each st around, join (42sts)
Rnd 9: Ch2, work fpdc (see special stitches) around the first st, work bpdc (see special stitches)
around the next st, *work fpdc around the next st, work bpdc around the next st, repeat from *
around, join (42sts)
Rnd 10: Ch2, work fpdc around the first st, work bpdc around the next st, *work fpdc around the
next st, work bpdc around the next st, repeat from * around, join (42sts)
To Finish (Option One – green doll)
Sl st LOOSELY around, fasten off and hide any loose ends.
To Finish (Option Two – pink doll)
Ch1, work a tw sc (see special stitches) in each st around, join (42sts)
Ears
Then make the ears as per the Bunny pattern and sew them onto the top of the hat.
Tail
Complete by making the tail as per the Bunny pattern and sew onto your doll’s bottom.
~•~

Then they can play dress up!

Boy (in green) is wearing the scarf from the Little Weebee Wardrobe Essentials Part One pattern.
Bunny is wearing the dress from the free Halloween Dresses Pattern, without the decrease round
on the skirt and with a final round of tw sc (see special stitches in this pattern)
Girl (in pink) is wearing the skirt from the Little Weebee Wardrobe Essentials Part One pattern.
Find all the clothing options here in my Ravelry store – just look for
pattern names that start with ‘Little Weebee’

~•~

I really hope you have enjoyed completing this pattern!

Please share your Weebee projects with us on the Weebee Appreciation Society
Facebook Page (link on page 2) and don’t forget to add your project to Ravelry!