Yarn Twist

Yarn Twist
According to Morton, “When a strand is twisted the component fibers tend to take on a
spiral formation, the geometric perfection of which depends on their original formation.”
According to Skinkle, “Twist is the measure of the spiral turns given to a yarn in order to
held the constituent fibres or threads together.”
According to WIRA, “Twist may be defined as the rotation about the yarn axis of any line
drawn on the yarn which was originally i.e. before twisting parallel to the yarn axis”.
According to Textile Institute, “Twist is the spiral disposition of the components of a thread
which is usually the result of relative rotation of the two ends”.
Twist direction
The direction of twist is indicated the use of the letters ‘S’ and ‘Z’ in accordance with the
following convention:

(a) S-twist: A single yarn has S twist when it is held in the vertical position, the fibres
inclined to the axis of the yarn conform in direction of slop to the central portion of the
letter S.
(b) Z-twist: The yarn has Z-twist if the fibres inclined to the axis of the yarn conform in
direction of slope to the central portion of the letter Z.
Twist Level / Amount of Twist:
The twist level (degree of twist) in a yarn is the number of turns of twist per unit length.
Generally, filaments need a twist of 3-6 TPI while staples require a higher TPI of 10-20.
The amount of twist varies with fiber length, yarn size, and its intended use.
Twist amount is expressed in-

❶ TPI (Turns Per Inch)

❷ TPM (Turns Per Meter)

❸ TPCm (Turns Per Centimeter)

Twist Angle
The twist angle θ is the angle between a tangent to the helix formed by the fiber and
the yarn axis. By “unrolling” the surface layer we see that the fibers becomes the
hypotenuse of a right-angled triangle.
Let the yarn diameter be D unit and let be the length of yarn occupied by one
complete turn of twist. Then,

The greater the diameter of the yarn, the larger is the angle produced by on turn
of twist. As 1/L is equivalent to turns per unit length then:

This is the relation between yarn twist and yarn count where constant K is termed the

“twist factor” or twist multiplier” and is directly proportional to the tangent of the twist
angle.
Math: Calculate the twist angle of a spun cotton yarn twisted to give a twist
factor of 7.

Twist multiplier:
A course yarns with 20 TPI has vastly different twist characteristics to a fine yarn
with 20 TPI by an expression known as the twist factor or twist multiplier.

Twist multiplier is an empirical parameter that has been establish by experiments

and practice that the maximum strength of a yarn is obtained for a definite value of
K. It is directly proportional to the tangent of the twist angle.

Where K is the twist factor, also known as Twist Multiplier (TM).

Value of twist factor differs with each count system.
Math: A combed cotton yarn of 50 Ne, has a twist of 1020 per meter. What is
the English twist factor?

Factors Affecting Twist:

 The count of yarn to be spun-the twist level in a yarn is proportional to the
square root of the yarn count.
 The quality of cotton used-all other parameters remaining the same, longer
fibers require less twist than the shorter ones.
 The use to which the yarn is put-is the yarn meant to be used as warp yarn,
weft yarn, knitting yarn or any other yarn.
 The fineness of the fiber being spun-the finer and longer staple cottons
needs a lower twist for the same count compared to shorter and coarser
cottons.
 The kind of machine in which the yarn will subsequently be used-the twist
in yarns used for weaving on power looms and automatic looms will be higher
than that used for hosiery.
 The smoothness of the fabric into which the yarn is to be converted-yarn
required for smooth-surfaced fabrics are given many twist per inch. They are
hard twisted yarns and they give strength, smoothness, elasticity and some
crease-resistance of fabrics.
 Any other special attribute of the fabric into which the yarn is to be
converted-yarns required for crepe fabrics with rough or crinkled surfaces
are given a maximum amount of twist. The crepe yarns also confer enhanced
cease resistance to the fabric.
Techniques of twist Measurements
The most common techniques that have been used for measuring yam twist are listed
below.
❶ Straightened fiber technique or the direct count method. (Ordinary Twist Tester)
❷ Twist contraction technique or the untwist and re-twist method. (Tension Twist Tester)
❸ Twist to break technique.
❹ Microscopic
Etc.

The straightened fiber technique (Direct count method)

Principle:
Used only for testing single spun yarns, this technique involves the untwisting of the test
specimen until all of the twist is removed. The completeness of the untwisting is verified
by visual examination of the straightening of all of the fibers in the strand – this is why the
name ‘straightened fiber technique’. The number of turns required for the untwisting is
counted and the number is divided by the length of the test specimen to arrive at the twist
of the test yarn turns per unit length.
Construction:
The below figure depicts the salient features of a single yarn twist tester incorporating the
straightened fiber technique. The instrument consists of two pillars, A and B, mounted on
a rigid base C. On pillar A are mounted a fixed jaw D, a guide pulley E, a tensioning
arrangement F, a magnifying lens G and a blackboard H. Pillar B carries a jaw I that can
be rotated manually either way by means of handle K and the number of revolutions is
recorded in the revolution counter J. A length of 25 mm (or one inch), the test length
normally used, separates the faces of the jaws D and I. A test specimen L can be seen
mounted between the two Jaws.
Test Procedure:
 The first step is to set the revolution counter to zero and clamp the test yam in the
rotatable jaw.
 Open the static jaw and lead the yarn through it and then over the guide pulley;
attach a small weight to the yarn to give it the required tension and then close the
jaw to clamp the yarn.
 Check, by means of lens G if necessary, the twist direction of the test specimen.
Then using the handle, rotate jaw I in a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction so as
to untwist the yarn.
 Note the twist in the yarn being removed. When most of the twist has been removed,
push a sharp needle through the middle of the partially untwisted strand so it nearly
touches the static jaw; then, looking through lens G, gently move the needle towards
the other jaw.
 Give the handle a final rotation either way until the needle is in the closest possible
position to the rotatable jaw.
 Finally, the number of turns of the rotatable jaw required to untwist the test
specimen is read off the revolution counter and recorded. At least 50 tests are
conducted in this manner and the mean TPI and CV% are calculated.
Test Results: The mean instrument reading is first calculated and then the twist is
expressed either in terms of turns per inch (TPI) or turns per meter (TPM).

Tension type Twist tester

A typical tension-type twist tester is specifically designed to apply the twist contraction
principle to single spun yarns. Essentially, it consists of two pillars, mounted on a solid
base. A fixed jaw is mounted on a pillar. This jaw is connected to a tension scale that has
a sliding weight that can be set at any required point on the scale, the lower end of which
is a pointed tip. The whole scale is in effect a small pendulum. At the base of this pillar is
a fixed index mark.

The other pillar carries the rotatable jaw I, which is connected to handle and a revolution
counter through gears. The gear ratio is such as to display the TPI of the test specimen at
the end of the test. The mechanical counter displays four digits. The first two digits
represent whole numbers while the next two indicate two decimal places. A zero setting
knob is connected to the counter. The test specimen mounted in between the fixed and
rotatable jaws. The specimen length in this instrument is a fixed 10″. In some testers of this
kind there is an arrangement to change the specimen length by sliding the fixed jaw pillar
along a slot in the base.
Test Procedure:-
 The sliding weight on the tension scale is first set according to the count of the test
yarn and the instrument constant, which will usually be provided by the concerned
instrument manufacturer. For example, a particular manufacturer recommends that
the following formula be used to arrive at the tension setting:
Tension scale reading = 156/English count
 Yarn from the test package is first gripped in the fixed jaw and then led through the
rotatable jaw. It is pulled through the latter jaw until the knife-edge tip of the
pendulum pointer is exactly in line with the fixed index mark at the base. This jaw
too is then closed.
 At this stage, the test specimen is under recommended tension and has a test length
or gauge length of 10″.
 The mechanical counter is now set to zero using the zero-set knob.
 The twist direction of the test specimen is ascertained, if necessary by means of a
magnifying lens and the handle is rotated so as to untwist the yarn.
 As the twist in the 10 inch specimen is removed, the yarn extends and the tension in
it falls; as a result, the pendulum pointer moves away from the index mark and
eventually reaches its position of rest (i.e. the vertical position). At this stage, all the
twist has been removed from the sample.
 The jaw is kept rotating in the same direction until sufficient twist has been inserted
to bring the pointer gradually back to coincide with the index mark.
 Thus, in this method, the twist is first removed by untwisting and then put back by
re-twisting the untwist and retwist principle.
 The revolution counter reading is noted and recorded. As stated earlier, this is the
value of the TPI of the test specimen.