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Gentle Monster Extention To Ready-To-Wear in Europe
Gentle Monster Extention To Ready-To-Wear in Europe
22 SEPTEMBER 2021
MONSTER
FINAL PROJECT
Gentle Monster Final project of Master in Fashion & Luxury Brand
Management, Istituto Marangoni Milan
Brand Extension
Ready-to-Wear MICHELLE ALLENA - 070647
*Under supervision of Professor Alessandro
in Europe Balossini Volpe
TABLE OF CONTENT
04 INTRODUCTION
77 SWOT
79 CONCLUSION
80 REFERENCES
81 BIBLIOGRAPHY
TABLE OF CONTENT 02
GENTLE MONSTER
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
The report will critically analyze and evaluate the brand Gentle Monster
(Specialized genderless glasses) and will propose a new product category :
Genderless Ready-to-Wear in the European market focused on the
European millennials and gen Z. Exclusive distribution will be implemented
both online and offline through 70% direct and 30% wholesale strategy.
INTRODUCTION 04
GENTLE MONSTER
HISTORY
Gentle monster is a South Korean eyewear brand that artistically explored the
form as well as the experience.
2011 - Founded by Jay Oh and Hangkook Kim.
2013 - Heavily popularised by Korean actress Jun Ji-Hyun in drama ‘My
Love From The Stars’ ( BOF, 2016 : Online ).
2016 - Open a New York Store.
Collaboration with Danish designer, Henrik Vibskov of ‘Pencil Glasses’
2017 - Open Los Angeles Store.
Collaboration with Moooi, Dutch furniture company,
creating ‘Third-eye’ collection ( Surface Magazine, 2017 : Online).
Open a skin care brand ‘Tamburins’.
2017 - LVMH invested $60 million for 7% stake ( Vogue, 2021 : Online )
2018 - Collaboration with Korean rapper, Song Mino of Winner.
Open a dessert store, ‘Nudake’.
2019 - Collaboration with Huawei-Smartglasses,
Alexander Wang ‘M.PRI$$’, Gentle Kids, and ‘GentleFendi’
2020 - Collaboration with Jennie ‘Kim-Jentle home’ and
Chinese rapper Kris Wu ‘Gentle Wu’.
2021 - Collaboration with Hood by Air, Marine Serre, AMBUSH,
Heron Preston, and World of Warcraft ( for gaming culture )
Open a retail space ‘HAUS DOSAN’ in South Korea.
( Gentlemonster, 2021 : Online )
OWNERSHIP
BUSINESS DESCRIPTION
BUSINESS PERFORMANCE
Gentle Monster eyewear is being sold in over 450 selected shops in over
30 countries including South Korea, France, Spain, Italia, Portugal, etc. and
opened a branch office NY, USA ( Gentle Monster, 2020: LinkedIn profile )
The revenue in 2014 is $40 million with their 70% direct and 30% wholesale
distribution strategy. In the next year, the revenue quadrupled to $160 million
( BOF, 2016: Online ).
Gentle Monster reached the estimated annual sales of $200 million in 2017
with 30% of operating margin. No more annual report have been released
for public since then ( Eyewear Intelligence, 2021 : Online ).
Gentle monster is a DTC focus brand proven by less than 10% of sales are
coming from wholesale ( WGSN, 2021: Brand Case Study 2021 )
COMPANY ANALYSIS 06
GENTLE MONSTER
Millennial & Gen • Millennials and Gen Z are more persistent and vocal, they
Z Survey (Deloitte, believe individuals have the power to change even though they
2021:Online) still worry about their own families’ health.
• Instead of being negative and staying in stressful states, they
have found opportunities to improve personally and profes-
sionally.
• Environmental issues, inequality, and discrimination re-
mains a priority, directly affecting their carrer choice and money
spending.
• Globally, Gen Z spends $44 billion a year on themselves and
influences others to spend $600 billion ( Millennial Marketing,
n.d : Online )
CUSTOMER ANALYSIS 08
GENTLE MONSTER
CUSTOMER ANALYSIS 10
GENTLE MONSTER
(UNMET) NEEDS
Even though these trends have been growing, there are little technological
implementations to apparel that help humans in day to day life.
SEGMENTATION
Market Segmentation
Focus : Apparel in European Market
Elite Luxury
€200-€5000
Accessible Luxury
Quality / Price €50-€2000
Price/Quality Bridge
€20-€1000
Price Mass
€15-€100
Drivers
Gentle Monster’s RTW will fall into lifestyle luxury and the biggest competitor
will be Balenciaga and Prada because of the similar price range, product
offer, target market and value.
CUSTOMER ANALYSIS 12
GENTLE MONSTER
GEOGRAPHIC
Live in urban area and metropolitan area in Europe
SOCIO-DEMOGRAPHIC
PSYCHOGRAPHIC
They are mostly pessimistic and unsure of the economic recovery after
COVID-19. This lack of confidence affects the buying power and behaviour.
McKinsey & Co, 2020 : The conflicted continent: Ten charts show how
COVID-19 is affecting consumers in Europe
CUSTOMER ANALYSIS 14
GENTLE MONSTER
PSYCHOGRAPHIC
Luxury is no longer enough, the market demand for ‘insurgent cultural and
creative excellence’. Luxury brands are expected to invent new ways to be
relevant to the new customer. High value broadcasted through omnichannel,
presenting a personal engagement in the new forward-thinking mentality.
BEHAVIOURAL
Millennials Gen Z
CUSTOMER ANALYSIS 16
GENTLE MONSTER
Name : Antonio
Gender : Male
Lives in : Paris
Age : 27 years old
Occupation : Fashion curator
Social life status : Single
Buying Concerns :
High quality materials, timeless yet distinctive
design, feel and touch product, sustainability,
forward thinking and brand value. Conventional, ex-
clusive. Highly educated, shop on workdays. abroad
leisure time, store experience.
Occasion of use :
Multiple occasion (business, evening, leisure)
Shopping place :
Monobrand physical store, Flagship store,
Department store (rinascente) online multi brand
omnichannel.
Buying Concerns :
High quality materials, feel and touch product, sus-
tainability and brand value. Latest trend, emotional
connection exclusivity, forward thinking and logo.
Highly educated, shop on workdays. abroad leisure
time. New tech and shopping experience.
Shopping place :
Mono-brand physical store, Flagship store, online
multi brand, website, omni-channel
CUSTOMER ANALYSIS 18
GENTLE MONSTER
R GENTLE MONSTER GENTL
Gentle Monster x AMBUSH
GENTLE MONSTER
POSITIONING MAP
DIRECT COMPETITORS
Founded 1917, Spain 1921, Florence 1913, Milan 1961, Paris 1988, Paris
COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 22
GENTLE MONSTER
DIRECT COMPETITORS
BALENCIAGA GUCCI
Brand Heritage Revolutionising women’s fashion in Label of choice amongst wealthiest for its ex-
Identity 20th century travagant and opulent designs, often associat-
(Internal) “Destruct to create” (Kering, 2021) ed with rappers (Highsnobiety, 2021).
Value Hiring Gvasalia to visualise “an unex- Hiring Alessandro Michele to redefine luxury
plored mode of creative freedom and a and create a new narrative with his contempo-
platform for innovation” (Kering, 2021) rary sensibility.
Colorful, romantic, poetic and magical mixed
with dandyism, gothic aesthetic and DIY punk
attitude (Kering, 2021)
Statement Since its creation in 1917, the iconic Founded in 1921, the eclectic and contem-
Balenciaga House occupies a unique porary creations of the Gucci House embody
place in the world of fashion (Kering, the pinnacle of Italian craftsmanship and are
2021). surpassed in quality, attention to detail and
imaginative design (Kering, 2021).
Strategy Latest controversy from collaboration Latest controversy from collaboration with its
with its competitor, Gucci x Balenciaga competitor, Gucci x Balenciaga proves that
proves that they are changing the norm. they are changing the norm.
Challenging the traditional and con- YSL Haute Couture revolutionized Adopting Japanese footwear, Tabi
servative idea of luxury since 1970’s fashion in 1966 by introducing high- Shoes and the anonymity of the
(Prada Annual Report, 2018) end products on a wider scale, 20th designer, Martin Margiela.
century’s foremost designers and
personalities (Kering, 2021)
Freedom of creative vision, reinterpre- Hiring Anthony Vaccarello because Hiring John Galliano to blend his
tation of the existent, preservation of he brings a sophisticated tribute to sense of spectacle and creative
know-how and valorisation of people’s Paris, the atelier, and the savoir-faire, mastery to the daring and ambig-
work (Prada Group, 2021). conceived with a modern prospective uous Margiela (OTB,2021).
(Kering, 2021)
What is considered beautiful and Founded in 1961, Saint Laurent is one Deconstruction and heritage go
controversial are purposely mixed in an of the most prominent fashion Hous- hand in hand to create designs
incessant play between past, present es of the 20th century (Kering, 2021). that showcase fashion as an art
and future, where the bourgeois codes of meaning rather than a cult of
are often broken down and rebuilt (Pra- personality (OTB, 2021).
da annual report, 2018:3).
“Prada Dialogues” is their latest cam- First ones going outside the tradition- In 2009 Martin Margiela resigned
paign to introduce a democratic plat- al fashion calendar (The Economic and inspired new designers (B
form discussing Prada’s tone of voice. Times, 2021). Magazine, 2021).
In 2017 the brand drastically change its 2012 rebranding to only “Saint Lau- Margiela penetrating chinese
business structure to “the digitalization rent” resulted into brand expansion market with chinese folk tale and
of relations with customers” (Prada (Financial Times, 2020) several store openings (Jing Daily,
Annual Report, 2018) 2021)
Catwalk approaches more to brand
Events like Fondazione Prada, Pra- image rather than sales. “Permanent Clothes spoke louder than the
dasphere Exhibition, Tools of memory collection” and “Investment pieces” designer - Anonymity.
and Prada Journal clearly emphasize because of consistency (BOF, 2015).
the brand’s challenge to the current Latest campaign is to challenge
ideology of fashion. the senses to discern between
memory and oblivion; real and
unreal.
COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 24
GENTLE MONSTER
DIRECT COMPETITORS
BALENCIAGA GUCCI
Store Store
“Retail warehouse” concept : direct and Gold and bright from the outside; Florence
raw. Hyper-real models and conveyor opulence on the inside. Soft furniture with
rails. drama of decorative elements infused with
technology.
Colors Colors
Silver, gray, white and one accent color. Green, black, white, brown, red, and yellow.
Brand image and Consistent, especially the anti-fashion Consistent, only the gothic punk aesthetic
Brand Identity digital cult doesn’t translate well
Relationship
Consistent Mostly consistent, however the brand Consistent, however it’s getting
wants to be rebellious but the brand harder to expand the brand while
image is more serious. staying anonymous.
COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 26
GENTLE MONSTER
DIRECT COMPETITORS
Distribution 182 directly op- 491 Directly oper- 633 Directly 251 Direct- 75 Directly oper-
erated stores in ated stores, half of Operated Stores ly operated ated stores, 20 in
mature markets them (291) are in in 70 countries, stores, half of Europe, 46 in Asia,
and Asia (Statis- emerging markets brand’s e-com- them (119) are key department
ta, 2020:Online). (Kering, 2021:On- merce, exclu- in emerging and multi-brand
“Exclusive distri- line). sive distribution markets (Kering, stores across Eu-
bution strategy” (Prada Group, 2021:Online). rope, US and Asia
2021:Online). (MaisonMargiela,
2021)
INDIRECT COMPETITORS
Brand Identity • Logo, Monogram logo, • Logo, 4G logo, Parisian • Graphic design, logo, arrow,
(External) quatrefoils and flowers, chic, heritage, Decon- stripes,offwhite, “quotation
heritage, craftsmanship, structed “GIVENCHY” mark”, Virgil Abloh, the new
brown-red color see it logo
Strength • Strong financial and distri- • Recognisable brand • Strong brand recognition
bution worldwide and social media presence.
• Strong brand recognition • Strong celebrity client • Innovative and trending
• Superior craftsmanship base designs.
• Huge customer loyalty • Strong financial and • Strong brand culture
distribution • New logo to fight counterfeit
COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 28
GENTLE MONSTER
COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 30
GENTLE MONSTER
BRAND IMAGE
EXISTING EMOTION/IMPRESSION
• K-pop culture : Gentle Monster riding the wave • Lessen gentle monster association
of popularity of the South Korean entertainment with Kpop. Creating a strategy for
industry, specifically ‘My Love From The Stars’ the European market such as fashion
because the product was used by Korean actress week and local influencers.
Jun Ji-Hyun. The brand is highly associated with • Ready to wear collection with Europe-
its country of origin because traditionally eyewear an manufacturers mixing both Euro-
market are dominated by Western luxury brands pean and Korean craftsmanship.
(BOF, 2016:Online) • Invent an emotional attachment to
• ‘Attention - grabbing’ retail experience : Gentle the products and the brand in order
Monster team are called to design a luxury depart- to form a high brand loyalty. Infusing
ment store in SKP-S ( Frame, 2020 : Online ). the existing DNA to the Ready to Wear
• LVMH invested $60 million for a 7% stake in Gen- in all aspects.
tle Monster Inc. Hopefully this will kick start Gentle
Monster’s road to become a billion-dollar brand
(Vogue, 2021:Online)
• Hankook Kim once said “I want my employees to
be able to buy a house”, as one of the reasons to
grow the company (WWD, 2018 : Online).
SELF- ANALYSIS 32
GENTLE MONSTER
EXISTING
Gentle Monster’s creative mission : ‘art for art’s sake’. The visual language
goes beyond places and spaces, “There is always a universally understood
creative handwriting that is instantly identified and recognised as Gentle
Monster” (Cactus Digitale, 2021 : Online ).
Customer experience is a priority, Gentle Monster hires only 6 people for eye-
wear designer while 60 people work for store visuals. Hankook Kim wanted
the products to be exhibited, to show artistic side (The Industry Fashion,
2019).
Embracing the future : visually illustrating the possibility the future holds
through store visuals and collection concepts. Collaboration with HUAWEI
proves this point.
SELF- ANALYSIS 34
GENTLE MONSTER
STRENGTHS, STRATEGIES
EXISTING :
SELF- ANALYSIS 36
GENTLE MONSTER
#CODEPINK
CODE.GENTLEMONSTER.COM
Exclusive distribution
• 52 units of DOS stores and department stores, 31 in South Korea, 16 in
China and South-East Asian countries, 3 in the US, and 1 in London.
• Its own multi-brand store : Haus Dosan, South Korea.
• International webstore
• Stockists : 200 unit globally
• E-commerce : 12 website (Tmall and Farfetch)
• Globally work with 200 stockists its own international webstore
• (Gentlemonster, 2021)
All of the strengths generate a strong social media engagement and strong
impact on culture. They are exploiting the instagram moment : an all-access
pass worldwide.
SELF- ANALYSIS 38
GENTLE MONSTER
STRENGTHS, STRATEGIES
INNOVATIVE:
• Limited product : wearable innovation, investment pieces, while staying
inclusive.
• Collaborate Korean craftsmanship with European manufacturers
• Develop a consistent mid-price range throughout all platforms.
• Transparency and Sustainability : Eliminate waste with digital fashion,
involved in sustainable movements, great CSR and be more transparent.
• Approaching inclusive marketing (genderqueer, size, race and disability)
• Exclusive distribution and pop-up collaboration in Europe.
• Guerrilla marketing in Europe (360 degree customer experience).
VULNERABILITY
EXISTING
• Weak product branding.
• Early stages of globalisation made the products more heterogeneous.
• Leaning too much on celebrity endorsement or collaborations.
• Its biggest competition is its own portfolio.
• Huge money to maintain brand image.
• Higher operational cost in Europe compared to Asia.
• Low brand awareness in european market
• Not a lot of exposure about the brand’s transparency, especially about
sustainability.
VALUES
SELF- ANALYSIS 40
Gentle Monster Probe Campaign
GENTLE MONSTER
FACETS
BRAND AS PRODUCT
Quality / Value
• Affordable price.
Country of origin :
Korean culture in a sense of shape and European craftsmanship.
BRAND AS ORGANIZATION
Organisation attributes
• Inclusive : genderless and diversity.
• Transparent : CSR and sustainability.
• Inspiring future narrative : Boundary-pushing imagination and interpreta-
tion of the world, especially social issues
• Purity of art : weird beauty aesthetic, “Weird beauty” looks gentle but has
great passion and enthusiasm inside.
• Smartwear : Boundary pushing concept with technology advancement.
BRAND AS PERSON
Personality
• Forward thinking
• Trendsetter
• Artistic freedom, youthful
• Brand ambassador & Collaborations : Culture redesign
Brand-customer relationship
• Inclusive
• Inspiration
• Transparent
• Experimental engagement
• Culture redesign
BRAND AS SYMBOL
Brand heritage
Gentle Monster Kids Experimental store experience
Gentle Monster Circle of life Gentle Monster Campaign Gentle Monster Packaging
BRAND DNA
Present :
• Culture redesign
• Weird
• Pioneer
• Unpredictable
OUTPUT
VALUE PROPOSITION
Functional benefit : High quality yet accessible price
Emotional benefit : Future thinking, sense of belonging and inspiring
Symbolic benefit :
• Self representation : as ‘future trendsetter’, confident and stylish.
• Research : Niche fashion with a rebel attitude.
CREDIBILITY
• Customers expect to get the same value and experience as gentle mon-
ster eyewear, Nudake (dessert shop), and Tamburins (skincare brand).
• Co-branding with existing international brands to culturally connect with
the new target market.
• Why the right extension? Gentle Monster have been showing visible
crossover to other product genres. The brand message and creative vi-
sion is unpredictable and it delivers. Younger customers value brand sto-
ries and accelerated technological change, Gentle Monster could portray
these intangible assets as well as their tangible assets in other product
categories related to creative force, including Ready-to-Wear.
POSITIONING MAP
POINTS OF PARITY
POINTS OF DIFFERENCE
COMPETITIVE STRATEGY
IMPLEMENTATION SYSTEM 52
GENTLE MONSTER
4P - PRODUCT
PRODUCT MANAGEMENT
STRATEGY
PRODUCT STRATEGY
STAR QUESTION
Outerwear/hoodie Technology infused
Eyewear Customer still not familliar with this
Investment pieces : higher value concept, but might be interested to
and durability try something new.
IMPLEMENTATION SYSTEM 54
GENTLE MONSTER
Product examples
4P - PRICE
SELLING PRICE :
PRICE CONSIDERATIONS :
IMPLEMENTATION SYSTEM 56
GENTLE MONSTER
4P - PLACE
DISTRIBUTION : Exclusive distribution strategy
Omnichannel : Blurring between offline, online and social media.
80%
MARKET COVERAGE
• Main focus : Paris, Milan and London
• Secondary : Germany and Spain
LOGISTICS
• Products manufactured in Europe
• High quality control : mass-produced but with highly innova-
tive and craftsmanship.
IMPLEMENTATION SYSTEM 58
GENTLE MONSTER
4P - PROMOTION
PR ACTIVITIES
Fashion Week
Surprise street fashion show near the fashion show venue.
SURPRISE DROP
IMPLEMENTATION SYSTEM 60
GENTLE MONSTER
4P - PROMOTION
DREST - APPLICATION
The world’s first interactive luxury styling game
made for future-fashion enthusiasts, featuring real
products from the runway that can be purchased
through farfetch. Moreover, players can donate in
the game to several charity platform. Representing
all fashion core-creativity, philanthropy, and inclu-
sivity : All good for forward thinking brands like
Gentle Monster. ( Vogue, 2020: Online )
This allows Gentle Monster to position itself with its
direct competitors.
COLLABORATIONS
INES ALPHA
• Based in Paris
• Background : Art director of advertising, specialised in
storytelling. Talk about social issues through art too.
Also her identity fits perfectly with Gentle Monster.
• Style : iridescent, fantastical future, and surreal
• Method : 3D make up in the campaign and Instagram/
Snapchat AR filter
• ( Metal Magazine, 2021 )
IMPLEMENTATION SYSTEM 62
GENTLE MONSTER
4P - PROMOTION
CELEBRITY ENDORSEMENT
Paparazzi shots of the celebrities wearing
the products.
• Billy Eilish : Futuristic style
• Lil Nas : Attitude & Diversity
• Cara Delevingne : Genderless & Brave
• Bella Hadid : Fashion icon
• Willow and Jaden Smith : Genderless
• Alice Pagani : Italian influencer
IMPLEMENTATION SYSTEM 64
GENTLE MONSTER
4P - PROMOTION
INFLUENCER CAMPAIGN
INFLUENCER CAMPAIGN
IMPLEMENTATION SYSTEM 66
Proposed Logo for Gentle Monster RTW
GENTLE MONSTER
STYLISTIC IDENTITY
TYPOGRAPHY
Key components
COLOURS
IMPLEMENTATION SYSTEM 70
GENTLE MONSTER
RETAIL IDENTITY
Location
• Shopping area, Department
store, near its competitor.
• Offline and Online
Events
• The store itself is a powerful
brand experience. Customers
can take pictures and appre-
ciate the art. Taking advan-
LIGHT FUTURISTIC LOW DENSITY
tage of instagram moments.
ATMOSPHERE
Vision :
• Colours : bright futuristic colours. Metallic,
• VM : Customers are invited to try gadgets & appreciate the art. Simple
genderless approach merchandising and clear categorisation.
• Windows : open barrier, logo, and transparent window to invite people to
discover the brand.
• Display : focal points with new collection in unusual mannequin and mov-
ing art objects.
• Density : low - luxurious feeling
• Space : imitating other planet
• Lights : dark space or light futuristic. clarity.
Sound
• Unfamiliar tone, slow-beat and medium volume, alienated backsound
music. Wordless music so customers won’t think too much about the
lyrics.
Smell :
• Perfume of natural elements depends on the theme, for example rock or
linen fragrance
• The smell of fresh cotton in the fitting room will bring comfort and relax-
ation to the customers.
Touch
• Temperature : A hint of coldness to feel alienated.
• Material : soft, stone, glass, mirror, and stainless steel.
• Sofa, shelf and table : Collaboration with interior designer.
Social
• Wireless system, no conventional point of sale, no barrier between cus-
tomer and brand. The sales happen anywhere.
• Wide retail footprint so customers can walk freely.
• Sales associates wear no uniform, but wear the brand’s apparel
• Sales protocol : Informal, relaxed, friendly and open attitude allowing free-
dom to customers. Competent in product and general brand information.
• Customisation : depends on each collection could be name print or other
services.
IMPLEMENTATION SYSTEM 72
GENTLE MONSTER
COMMUNICATION IDENTITY
CAMPAIGN MESSAGE
• 70% explicit 30% implicit The campaign implies both explicit and implic-
it message. The campaign itself is explicit as the information needs to
be acknowledged. However, some messages are implicit as it won’t be
shown to let the customer wonder. The implicit might be a way to slowly
educate the customer of the brand’s identity
• EMOTION (50%) INFORMATION (50%) These two campaigns will appeal
to both emotions of those who can relate to the brand, its value, aesthet-
ic, functions, and the main focus is ‘uniqueness’.
COLLABORATIONS
DIVERSITY
CSR
SUSTAINABILITY
IMPLEMENTATION SYSTEM 74
GENTLE MONSTER
TIMELINE 2022
IMPLEMENTATION SYSTEM 76
GENTLE MONSTER
SWOT
SWOT
STRENGTH
WEAKNESS
OPPORTUNITIES
THREAT
IMPLEMENTATION SYSTEM 78
GENTLE MONSTER
CONCLUSION
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