Fortified Wines, Liqueurs, Vermouths and

Aromatised Wines.
Part 3 - THE FORTIFIED WINES OF MADEIRA AND THE REST.
The ISLANDS of MADEIRA are 560k off the coast of North African MOROCCO,
in the Atlantic, and belong to Portugal. Lying in the Gulf Stream the island enjoys
year round mild climate of 15-21oC. The island is
mountainous, rising to 6000 feet (2,000 metres) and all
places for growing grapes are TERRACED. The total
vineyard area is only 1,820 ha. and for centuries
Madeira was regarded as the world's largest single
vineyard.

First discovered in 1419 (by Portuguese navigator

ZARCO), the island was densely covered with trees
(“Ilha da Madeira” - 'wooded island'), but when the
Portuguese opened up the island, they used fire to clear
the forest for building. Unfortunately they set fire to the
whole island, which burned for 7 years. The result was a
thick layer of wood ash that further enriched the original
very fertile volcanic soils.

By 1455, Madeira wines were known and exported. The

period between 1654 and 1852 saw the best of production with many vintages of
unbelievable quality and lasting power. The most famous vintage is that of 1789
which, when tasted in 1959, had 111 years in cask, 50 years in glass demijohn
and 9 years in bottle and was judged to be excellent.

In 1852, the island was hit by vine disease OIDIUM and between 1852 and 1860
there were no harvests. Sulphur spraying was found to be the cure, but as soon
as this was discovered, the island was hit again by PHYLLOXERA. This had a
terrible effect on the local grape varieties, and one in particular, the TERRANTEZ,
reputed to be the best grape for producing Madeira wine, disappeared altogether.

At first ungrafted native American vines were planted, but this produced wine that
was poor and grafting with vinifera onto American roots was later carried out. At
the end of the phylloxera plague, out of 70 English firms producing Madeira, there
remained only 3: LEACOCK, BLANDY'S, COSSART, GORDON & CO. Madeira
never regained its former glory. Today there are
some 26 firms in the register and will market under some 400 individual labels.
Blandys and the Madeira Wine Company have been taken over by the oldest Port
makers WARRE, or rather by the controlling family, SYMINGTONS. They are
hoping to inject much needed money and new technology to turn Madeira into a
21st century wine.
SERCIAL
VERDELHO
GRAPES: BOAL or BUAL
MALMSEY
TINTA NEGRA MOLE
COMPLEXA
TRIUNFO

© Chris Baker 2008

HARVEST: The longest and most complex harvest in wine production anywhere.
Picking begins in the lower terraces on the southern
coast on about August 25 and continues to mid
September. The harvesting then moves to the north side
of the island and picks until the final Sercial grapes on
the upper slopes have been gathered by late October.
Formerly crushed by foot in stone LAGARES, the grapes
are now crushed by machine and the fresh MOSTO is
transported to the LODGES in Funchal where it is
fermented. The mosto ferments in wooden casks in the
shippers lodges for 8 days, at which time it is a dry,
highly acidic wine, VINHO CLARO.

HEATING: For most wines, heating would be

destructive, but for Madeira it is essential. The heating
process came about in consequence of the exporting of
the wines, and the use of casks of Madeira wines as
BALLAST in the holds of sailing ships. (When sailing
ships were empty, they needed added WEIGHT to Nowhere in the world is
balance the weight of the MASTS). grape growing more
difficult than in Madeira.
It was well known that wine transported in this way matured sooner (Ancient-
Roman writer and agricultural specialist GAIUS PLINY identified this feature and
wrote extensively on the subject) and Madeira wines were sent in the holds of
ships destined for tropical ports which gave the wines the benefit of the
movement of the ship (the best way to blend the alcohol into the wine) and the
HEAT of the VOYAGE which gave the wine its unique character. (Any other wine
that displays this character can be called MADERISED, the result of OXIDATION
and is most certainly undrinkable).

Madeira that had been shipped around the world was called VINO DO RONDA
(wine of the circle); some wines had 4 crossings of the equator over a period of 6
months. As early as 1730 efforts were being made to find cheaper and less time
consuming ways of duplicating this effect and the first ESTUFA (STOVE) was
built in 1800 by the firm of Leacocks.

Today there are 2 methods of heating. One is the natural CANTEIRO system
using the heat of the sun on the tin roof of the estufa shed; the other is to use
STEAM COILS that heat the wine to 43-51oC. The period of heating lasts from 3 -
5 months and the wine is allowed to slowly return to normal temperature.

Government controls forbid the alteration of temperature and the time taken. After
the heating the wine is charcoal filtered and then goes through a period of
ESTAGIO (rest). Then it is racked off the lees and becomes VINHO
TRANSFUGADO, and is then fortified.

FORTIFICATION: Madeira is fortified in two ways, one like PORT and one like
SHERRY. The first has spirit added at the point in fermentation when the sugar
content level has been achieved, the other is to allow the wine to ferment dry and
then add SURDO, a sweet MISTELLE made from unfermented grape juice and
brandy.

© Chris Baker 2008

 TYPES: There are four basic types: VINTAGE, RESERVE, MEDIUM,
SHIPPERS BLENDS.

♣ VINTAGE MADEIRA is 100% noble variety grape and from a single

vintage. Only 5-10% of production is vintage. It is made on average 5
years out of 10. The date on a Madeira bottle is no guarantee of
vintage.
♣ RESERVE MADEIRA spends 15 - 20 years (or more) in cask, and is
bottled from a blend of 80% reserve, 10% surdo, 10% older wines for
bouquet.
♣ MEDIUM QUALITY are aged for a minimum of 5 years and will be a
blend of 70% average wine, 10% surdo, 20% older wines of 20 years
and more.
♣ SHIPPERS BLENDS are cheaper wines, often used for cooking
(RAINWATER, DUKE OF CLARENCE MALMSEY, SOUTHSIDE).

STORAGE. Madeira is the longest-lived wine of all and there seems to be no

upper limit of age. Certainly the wine will become so concentrated as to be
undrinkable, but this does not denote decomposition. Because of the high acid
content, bottles of Madeira should be stored upright rather than on their sides.
The highly acidic wine will rot the cork, and if left upright there will be no danger of
the wine becoming OXIDISED (maderised), it’s that already!

MADEIRA GLOSSARY:

BOAL (BUAL) One of the noble grapes, makes wines that are sweet.
MALMSEY Another of the noble grapes, producing the sweetest, richest and
most luscious wines.
MEIODOCE means medium sweet
RAINWATER a rather ordinary medium dry
RESERVE a Madeira that is aged longer in cask
SERCIAL another of the noble grapes, producing light and dry wines
SOLERA a system of fractional blending to produce uniform wines
SOUTHSIDE originally to denote wines made on that part of the island
VELHISSIMO very old, not an indication of quality.

© Chris Baker 2008

 MARSALA.
A fortified wine from the island of SICILY (Italy); the production of Marsala dates
from 1773 when it was developed by Englishman JOHN WOODHOUSE as a
competitor for SHERRY and MADEIRA. The name comes from SARACEN
(ARABIC) name for the town of Marsala, “Marsah el Allah” (Port of God)

John Woodhouse noted the similarity between the local wines and those of
JEREZ and MADEIRA once they had been fortified. He identified a market gap in
England and gained a number of contracts, the most important being with the
English Royal Navy. Admiral Lord Nelson was
sufficiently impressed with the wines keeping ability
for long periods at sea under poor storage conditions
(the FORTIFYING process giving the stability
needed) that he made it a required item for all ships
(for officers; seamen drinking RUM). It is said that
Marsala was a key factor in English navy successes
in their continuing wars with France. "...it helps
toward clarity of thought and diminishes timidity in
action"

The wine was at its best by the late 19thC, but unfortunately at its worst by mid
20th due to some makers selling Marsala mixed with other commodities, such as
eggs and other flavours such as orange, coffee, vanilla. But things are improving
with producers like FLORIO putting quality back into the wine.

At present, there are five major producers of Marsala:

FLORIO
RALLO
PELLEGRINO
MIRABELLA
De BARTOLI

There are about 50 smaller producers.

CLIMATE and SOIL: The vine-growing region occupies the western end of the
island of Sicily, from PALERMO to SCIACCA. The soil is generally volcanic mixed
with iron oxides; the climate is hot, dry and sunny with fierce winds from Sahara
Desert, ideal conditions for tough, sugar-laden grapes.

GRAPES: Grapes used are:

CATARRATTO
INZOLIA
GRILLO

© Chris Baker 2008

CONTROL: Italian D.O.C. rulings grade four types of Marsala:

MARSALA FINE: Basic quality, dry or sweet, 17% alcohol, also known
as ITALIA PARTICOLARE (IP)
MARSALA SUPERIORE: Dry and sweet, not less than 18% alc.
Styles include LONDON PARTICULAR (LP) - Higher alcohol. Also
SUPERIOR OLD MARSALA (SOM), GARIBALDI DOLCE (GD) &
OLD PARTICULAR (OP)
MARSALA VERGINE: Dry, not less than 18% alcohol, blended on
SOLERA system. Highest quality Marsala, produced from specially
selected grapes.
MARSALA SPECIALI: Not less than 18% alc., includes flavoured
Marsalas that have additives such as eggs (MARSALA ALL’UOVO),
almonds (MARSALA ALLE MANDORLE), coffee, strawberry,
tangerine, vanilla (CREMA) etc.

Unfortified Marsalas can be found - De Bartoli’s VECCHIO SAMPERI

Marsala wines vary in colour

from pale brown to dark
mahogany. Taste from very dry
(VERGINE) to very sweet
(DOLCE). The wines have a
long and complex aftertaste that
distinguishes them from their
fortified wine cousins of Sherry
and Madeira. A well-made
Marsala is certainly the equal of
any similar fortified wine
produced anywhere else in the
world, and also has the advantage of being very inexpensive in relation to the
quality of production.

COLOUR: Marsala is also graded according to colour:

AMBRA (amber) for Fine and Superiore. This is the only Marsala that can be
made with the addition of MOSTO COTTO. This involves the use of
CONCENTRATED MUSTS (MOSTO COTTO) where the musts are REDUCED
(thickened or concentrated) by BOILING. The addition of mosto cotto to the
AMBRA wines is in the ratio of 100 parts of base wine, to 6 parts of ‘concentrato’
or ‘cotto’, to 6 parts of ALCOHOL for fortifying.

ORO (gold) generally the finest; addition of mosto cotto forbidden.

Oro Marsala.

RUBINO (ruby) this is a red wine version, the production system

being a cross between Madeira and Sherry and including aspects of
Port and Montilla. Adding mosto cotto is also forbidden for this.

© Chris Baker 2008

 AGEING: Cask ageing is carried out using oak, chestnut and other woods.
Some producers use the SOLERA system for Vergine.

De Bartoli makes unfortified SAMPERI, which achieves 17% alcohol and bottled
at 10, 20 and 30 years of age.

USING MARSALA: Long established as an essential kitchen commodity, much

Marsala is made as a commercial kitchen product. But modern enthusiasts are
finding the real attractions of this excellent wine, and a dry or medium dry Marsala
Vergine will be one of the finest wines to choose as an aperitif, or to go with
mature, dry cheese. Florio's TERRE-ARSE is a vintage dated Marsala of truly
great quality, and is probably one of the greatest value-for-money wines in the
world. Interesting name. Surprisingly widely available in UK supermarkets.

MARSALA GLOSSARY:

CAFFE: Coffee flavoured Marsala

CREME: Very sweet, rich with vanilla flavour
CREMA ALL’UOVO: Cream Marsala, very sweet, flavoured with eggs.
D.O.C.: Italian basic level of control
DOLCE: Sweet
FINE: Basic style of Marsala, dry or sweet
FRAGOLE: Strawberry flavoured
MANDARINO: Tangerine flavoured
MANDORLA: Almond flavoured
RISERVA: No legal status - indicates that the wine has been matured in
barrel for at least 10 years
SECCO: Dry
S.O.M.: Superior Old Marsala
SOLERA: System of fractional blending & maturing as carried out
with SHERRY
SPECIALI: Flavoured Marsalas
SUPERIORE: Higher classification - higher in alcohol & longer ageing
STRAVECCHIO: Very Old
VERGINE: Best, driest, distinctive and most natural of the Marsalas.

Please note that with modern re-defining of the product, the flavoured Marsalas
will disappear from production; many have already done so. The leading
producers abandoned them years ago.

© Chris Baker 2008

 NOTE: An important part of the
VERMOUTHS and AROMATISED WINES: process of making vermouths
and aromatised wine involves
the addition of DISTILLED
HISTORICALLY IMPORTANT, being modern SPIRIT, usually BRANDY.
reproductions of ancient wine styles made when Please refer to the full
winemaking was a very hit-and-miss activity, where explanation of DISTILLATION
bacterial spoilage was not understood and taken-for- and of the processes of
granted modern winery hygiene was unknown. producing BRANDY

There is no evidence that the ancient GREEKS and ROMANS had any ideas
about quality; quantity being the main prerequisite. Storage of wine was a matter
of chance. Wines for instant consumption were kept in open jars; wines for
transport were "helped" by a liberal addition of honey, or were reduced by heating
the wine until the excess water evaporated leaving a concentrate that was
reconstituted with water on arrival at the other end of its journey. It was, and it
tasted, as if it had been cooked. Modern equivalents of this are the wines of
Madeira, not that comparisons can be made.

Later, aromatic wines became the fashion, with

the addition of myrtle, incense, aniseed, pepper
and vanilla. Because of these additions, the base
wine did not have to be of any quality, and it
wasn't. The ancient Romans taught the tribes
they conquered in Gaul to adulterate wine in all
sorts of ways. In Narbonne, the wine capital
before Lyons, the wines was infused with smoke
and near poisonous herbs, and plants like aloes.
In Vienne a wine was made called 'vinum
picatum' which was laced with pine pitch. The
Romans were very fond of using pine as an
aromatic and the pinecone became the symbol of
wine in the Roman Empire.

Ancient Roman ALCHEMIST with his Roman writer and politician, MARCUS CATO
ALEMBIC or STILL with which he (234 - 149 BC) wrote the following about how to
extracted medicines from herbs
'improve' a sharp wine:

"...make four pounds of flour from vetch and mix it with some wine and
boiled must. Make up the mix into small bricks and let them soak for 24
hours, and then dissolve them with the sharp wine in the jar for 60 days.

To remove bad odour, heat a thick, clean piece of roofing tile in the fire,
coat it with pitch, attach a string, lower it gently to the bottom of the jar
and leave the jar sealed for two days.

To impart a sweet aroma, take a tile covered with pitch, spread over it
warm ashes and cover with aromatic herbs and rush; place in a jar and
cover so that the odour does not escape before the wine is poured in."

© Chris Baker 2008

LUCIUS JUNIUS COLUMELLA, a later Roman from the first century AD, was a
wine specialist and very much in favour of not adulterating wine, but even he had
some unusual ideas. When the harvest was about to be brought in, the
winemaker prepared his cellar. In those days, the must was boiled as a matter of
course; this is still carried on in the production of MARSALA, where it is known as
MOSTO COTTO, boiled must.

"...he should heat the furnace with a gentle fire and carry the trodden
grapes from the vat to the boiling vessels. Clear the scum from the surface
until the must was clear of the lees. Then he should add either some
quinces, which he shall remove when thoroughly boiled, or any other
suitable scents, which he likes.

The odours boiled with the must are generally iris, fenugreek and sweet
rush. A pound of them each ought to be put in the boiling cauldron, which
has received ninety amphorae of must when it has just gone off the boil
and has been cleared of scum.

Add liquid or resinous preservatives - ten sextarii of Nemeturian pitch,

which has been carefully washed with boiled seawater, and a pound, and a
half of turpentine resin.

Then add the remainder of the spices, as follows: the leaf of spikenard, the
'costus' (an aromatic plant from India), dates, angular and sweet rush; of
these, half a pound each will suffice. Then a quincunx of myrrh, a pound of
sweet reed, half a pound of cinnamon, a quadrans of balsam, a quincunx
of saffron and a pound of vine leaf 'cripa' (crushed vine leaves).

Divide the grapes gathered each day after cleaning and drying equally
between the jars. If necessary, add to the new wine a fortieth part of must
boiled down from untrod grapes, or a pound and a half of salt to the
'culleus' (120 gallons).

If you use marble dust, add one pound to the culleus; mix with this must in
a vessel and then pour into the jar. If you use resin, pulverize it thoroughly,
three pounds to the culleus of must; shake the basket often so that the
resin may dissolve. "

The practice of “manufacturing” wines like this lasted for a very long time, so it is
not surprising that some of the methods are still in use today. The Greeks still
have their RETSINA, which uses pine tree resin in the mixture, although the
production is now very controlled and of good quality.

VERMOUTH: Probably the most

MANUFACTURED of all wines, in fact the use
of WINE, as the foundation is least part of the
production. Historically, VERMOUTHS were
medicinal drinks, taken to help a range of
illnesses, mostly stomach problems.
The discovery of their medicinal properties was
a by-product of the additions by the Greek and
Roman winemakers in their efforts to make
wines that either would not spoil, or helped to
disguise the taste of the rotten wines. Commercial brands of VERMOUTH
© Chris Baker 2008
One of the early additions was an aromatic root called WORMWOOD, or
WERMUTH in the German language, VERMOUT in Old French. This root had
powerful chemicals that caused great problems with drinkers who became quickly
addicted to them. The French vermouth ABSINTHE was outlawed because of the
bad effect it was having on the French population, rather as GIN did during the
17th century in Britain. Absinthe is making a commercial come-back in the UK,
mainly because of its use in cooking, also its importance in helping relieve
stomach problems, also because it was realised recently that the ban on Absinthe
did not apply to the UK.

The specialists in making modern VERMOUTHS are the

FRENCH and the ITALIANS. The classic French Dry
Vermouth is NOILLY PRAT, (NOY-EE PRAT- make sure
you say the “T”). The leading Italian producers are MARTINI
and CINZANO, although both companies have long since
branched into all other areas of wine production.

PRODUCTION: the base wine would be FORTIFIED with

brandy to 18% alcohol, then an INFUSION of HERBS and
SPICES would be done, either by MARINATING the wine
and herbs together for some months, or by making a
DISTILLATION with alcohol of the herbs and spices, and
adding this to the fortified wine. The intention of the
producer is to make a product that is CONSISTENT, always
the same, never varying. So there are no such things as VINTAGES, or the
product of one batch being better than another.

Amongst the herbs and spices used will be:

QUININE, CORIANDER, CLOVES, JUNIPER, GINGER, ORANGE and LEMON

PEEL, HYSSOP, CAMOMILE, RASPBERRIES, STRAW BERRIES, ROSE-
PETALS, CLOVES, CINNAMON, and still used will be a little W ORMW OOD.

Variations on Vermouth are termed AROMATISED WINES, where the infusion of

herbs and spices will be less harsh and the strength will be lower and will include
DUBONNET, which has red and white wine versions; LILLET is a similar white
wine style made in SAUTERNES, Bordeaux.

OTHER FORTIFIED WINES:

CYPRUS: COMMANDERIA (full title COMMANDERIA St. JOHN). A rich sweet

dessert wine made in the south-eastern part of this Eastern Mediterranean Island.
The wine is made from DRIED GRAPES rather like the Italian APPASSIMENTO
system, and is then flavoured with CLOVES, RESIN and scented, perfumed
WOODS; all suspended in a cloth bag rather like giant tea bag, inside the
maturing wine. The wine becomes brown with age; it is actually UN-FORTIFIED
although traditionally being regarded as such because of its high alcohol content.
Aged for 12 or more years in cask.

This wine has been known since the 12th century, when it was given to any
injured Crusaders who were recovering in Cyprus.

© Chris Baker 2008

True fortified wines are made in Cyprus, in the style of SHERRY. FLOR develops
naturally in Cyprus and the wines made have the potential for becoming fine. The
best of these stay in Cyprus. Producers are ETKO, HAGGIPAVLO, KEO, LOEL,
SODAP.

LIQUEURS
NOTE: An important part of
the process of making
A LIQUEUR is a SWEETENED SPIRIT to which
LIQUEURS involves the
FLAVOURINGS have been added. Liqueurs come in two
process of DISTILLATION.
categories:
Please refer to the full
explanation of
♣ INFUSION: Fruits, herbs, spices, egg and cream flavours, DISTILLATION
coffee, chocolate and nuts are added to a BASE SPIRIT
and left to INFUSE (MIX) for a time.

♣ DISTILLATION: This is a further process of the INFUSION system, where the

unsweetened infusion is placed in a STILL so that the raw IMPURITIES can
be removed, leaving only the PURE FLAVOURS and AROMAS. Sweetening
will be done after distillation.

To explain this further, if we take the INFUSION LIQUEUR of GRAND

MARNIER, in which a good quality COGNAC brandy made by MARNIER
LAPOSTOLLE has added to it crushed CURACAO ORANGES, the mixture
being allowed to INFUSE for many months in small wooden casks.

If you take the end product of this and DISTILL it, you arrive at a CLEAR
SPIRIT (ALCOOL BLANC), which still has the flavours and aromas of the
Curacao oranges. Add to this some sweetening, and you have COINTREAU.

Sometimes these distillate liqueurs will be re-distilled or RECTIFIED to further

purify the product, but the more times they are distilled, the less will remain
the flavours and aromas.

Historically, liqueurs came about as MEDICINES, as a way to persuade people to

take them as they disguised the awful taste of the infusion of herbs and spices.
RELIGIOUS organisations such as the
BENEDICTINES and the monks of
CHARTREUSE became famous for their
medicinal liqueurs.

BENEDICTINE is the classic liqueur, and the

distillery is situated in the small fishing port of
FECAMP in northern French NORMANDY. It is a
HERBAL LIQUEUR and was first produced
commercially in 1510. Production uses 27
different herbs and spices, added to a spirit that is
distilled from BEET, a root crop that is mostly
SUGAR. The ingredients used include:

APRICOT KERNEL, ANGELICA, MYRRH, PINE

NEEDLES, LEMON PEEL, JUNIPER, TEA,
ARRICA, VANILLA, CORRIANDER, THYME,
CARDOMON, SUGAR, NUTMEG,

© Chris Baker 2008

 THERIAC MOLASSES (once believed to be an antidote to almost all known
poisons), ALOES, HONEY, CLOVES, HYSSOP and many others.

First the lemon peel is macerated together with the alcohol for some months.
During this time the distiller will be INFUSING and DISTILLING the other
ingredients separately, the order in which they are distilled being a closely
guarded SECRET. The distillates at this time will be 86% - 90% alcoholic
strength. Each separate preparation will be RECTIFIED to remove impurities, and
then RE-DISTILLED for further purification.

Now the different preparations are BLENDED, SUGAR and HONEY is added, the
whole is then cask aged for 24 to 36 months.

Other liqueurs include:

♣ ADVOCAAT: Infusion of egg yolks, sugar and brandy

♣ ALCOOL BLANC: W hite alcohol, basic distillates cut with a little water and bottled, made
from a variety of fruits such as PEARS, STRAWBERRIES, RASPBERRIES, LEMON,
PLUMS. Made in France, Switzerland.
♣ AMARETTO: Infusion of almond extracts, apricot kernels, sugar and brandy
♣ CHARTREUSE: Strong and ancient liqueur sold at 71% alcohol for the ELIXIR, 55% for
the GREEN, and 40% for the YELLOW. 130 plants and herbs are used with sugar and a
base of good brandy. It is aged for 5 years, with the VEP style (Vieillissement
Exceptionnellement Prolonge or exceptionally long ageing) which receives ten years.
♣ COINTREAU: A variety of CURACAO, being a double distillation of brandy infused with
Curacao orange peel.
♣ CURACAO: A wide variety of styles made by many producers. All using a neutral, grain
spirit into which an infusion of CURACAO oranges or orange peel is made.
♣ DRAMBUIE: An infusion of Scotch MALT and GRAIN whiskeys with HEATHER, HONEY
and HERBS
♣ GALLIANO: Italian liqueur using an infusion of LIQUORICE, VANILLA, and another 80
herbs and spices in a GRAPPA spirit.
♣ KAHLUA: Mexican (now made in DENMARK) liqueur using COFFEE as the flavouring,
mixed with a neutral GRAIN spirit and sweetening.
♣ KUMMEL: Northern European liqueur, made in Germany, Holland, France, Switzerland,
Denmark, Poland. Using a grain spirit flavoured with CARAWAY SEEDS.
♣ PASTIS: One of the most important of drinks in France, also throughout Europe and
elsewhere in various forms. The basis is ANISEED, plus other herbs and spices, infused
in grain spirit. Sometimes sweetened, sometimes not. The famous makers in France are
PERNOD/RICARD. In Spain the style is called OJEN, in Greece it is OUZO. In Egypt it is
RAKI. In Iraq it is ARRAK. All have the same style in that they turn MILKY with the
addition of WATER.
♣ SAMBUCA: Italian, variation on the PASTIS style, also using aniseed plus other herbs.
Served neat in a small glass, with the addition of THREE COFFEE BEANS, (CON LA
MOSCA or WITH FLIES), then set alight. The waiter will serve the flaming Sambuca,
douse the flame with a circle of cut lemon. You sip the delicious liqueur, finishing by
chewing the coffee beans.

© Chris Baker 2008