Coloration Technology: Food Colorants: Their Past, Present and Future

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doi: 10.1111/cote.

12334

Food colorants: their past, present and future


Tom Coultatea,* and Richard S. Blackburn b
Coloration
a
Leighton Buzzard, Bedfordshire, LU7 2RW, UK
Technology
Email: coultate.tom@gmail.com
b
School of Design, University of Leeds, Leeds, LS2 9JT, UK

Whether we are purchasing fresh vegetables from a market stall, ready meals from the supermarket, eating at
home or in a five-star restaurant, we use colour to tell us what to expect in terms of taste, nutrition and safety.
This review considers the techniques that have, over the years, been employed to modify the colour of our
food, and the interactions of these techniques with issues of safety and nutrition. The demand for brightly Review article
coloured food resulted in the incorporation of some questionable inorganic and organic chemistry being used Society of Dyers and Colourists
in food products. A limited number of synthetic dyes are still used in food today, but health concerns and the
consumer-driven demand for natural colorants has brought about a change in the way food is coloured. The
proliferation of products with labels that state they contain “No artificial colours” on supermarket shelves
suggests that the future of azo dyes and their various derivatives is strictly limited. Nature produces an
abundance of colours and many of these are extracted and used as natural food colorants; however, they are
subject to application limitations and stability problems. Significant research by academia and industry into
methods to stabilise and expand the application possibilities for the various approved natural food colorants
is ongoing, but most developments that food colour manufacturers proclaim are enhanced vehicles for
delivering established natural pigments into food products.

hundred years or so. It was inevitable that the importance of


Introduction colour of food would begin to rise in the nineteenth century
For several years the public have been pressurising the food as food preservation and processing started to move from
and drink industry for more natural consumer products. the domestic kitchen, humble cottage, or stately mansion,
Unfortunately, no two consumers will ever agree on what outwards to the industrial world of tradesmen and manu-
they mean by natural or unnatural. For most consumers the facturers. The result was a commercial, as well as a purely
key to assigning these adjectives is the word “chemical”, aesthetic, incentive to keep colours of processed and
which is associated with ingredients identified by chemical- preserved food products as close as possible to the natural
sounding language or a three digit number preceded by the colours of their raw materials. The inevitable destruction of
letter “E”. It would be a surprise if a supermarket chain the natural, biological pigments by early food-preservation
succeeded in selling coleslaw including the details shown techniques led to food suppliers enhancing the appeal of
in Box 1 on its label. their products with anything they could access, notably the
pigments used by the painters, of portraits and front doors.
Box 1 The potential hazards of unnatural colourings did not go
Coleslaw, active ingredients: ethanoic acid, a-D-gluco- unnoticed. In 1782, in The Experienced English House-
pyranosyl-(1,2)-a-D-fructofuranose, p-hydroxybenzyl keeper, Elizabeth Raffald, an eighteenth century forerunner
and indoylmethyl glucosinolates, S-propenyl and other of Mrs Beeton, drew attention to the use of copper salts as
S-alkyl cysteine sulfoxides, b-carotene, (and other enhancements of the green colour of pickled vegetables
carotenoids, E160), phosphatidylcholine. (Box 2). The chemistry of this effect is now the basis of the
manufacture of sodium copper chlorophyllin.

Of the different parameters by which the apparent


healthiness of a food item is judged when we walk around Box 2
a supermarket, colour is top of the list. Very few consumers “. . . for nothing is more common than to green pickles in a
are sufficiently knowledgeable about nutrition to make brass pan for the sake of having them a good green, when
valid appraisals of the nutritional data on the labels of their at the same time they will green as well by heating the
purchases, even if supermarket trolleys were fitted with liquor without the help of brass, or verdegrease [i.e.
computers. We can rarely expect to sample the taste of food verdigris, mixed copper salts of acetate, carbonate, etc.]
before we buy it, so that, other than the reputation or our of any kind, for it is a poison to a great degree. . .” [1].
past experience of a particular stall, shop or manufacturer,
we are obliged to rely on appearance as a guide to quality. If In 1820, Frederick Accum published his impressively
we are choosing raw fruit and vegetables then bright colours titled book Treatise on the Adulteration of Food and Culinary
from anywhere on the spectrum are a recommendation in Poisons, Exhibiting the Fraudulent Sophistications of Bread,
terms of freshness, vitamin content, and the possible Beer, Wine, Spirituous Liquors, Tea, Coffee, Cream, Confec-
antioxidant function of many plant pigments. However, tionery, Vinegar, Mustard, Pepper, Cheese, Olive Oil, Pickles,
when children reach the confectionery aisle, their parents’ and Other Articles Employed in Domestic Economy, and
attitudes change: lurid = chemicals = “NO!” Methods of Detecting Them [2]; this book enjoyed wide-
spread success with four editions published in two years.
The Past The growing public awareness of the issue that Accum
With due allowance for the changing components of our initiated was reflected in local newspaper reports such as
diet, these attitudes have changed little over the last two the one in Box 3.

© 2018 The Authors. Coloration Technology © 2018 Society of Dyers and Colourists, Color. Technol., 0, 1–21 1
Coultate and Blackburn Food colorants

Box 3
After leaving school in 1961
“One pennyworth of red balls, called we believe, Nelson
Tom Coultate was initially a
or Waterloo Balls, – there were no such fine names in our
lab technician and then
lick-finger days, – yielded on analysis 30 grains of an
research assistant at Unilever’s
indissoluble matter resembling red-lead, which on being
Colworth Laboratories, publish-
fused with the blow-pipe produced 24 grains of lead in a
ing several research papers in
metallic state. . .” [3].
the field of plant biochemistry,
as well as studying by day-release. He went on to
complete a PhD in microbial biochemistry at Leicester
In 1850, the Chancellor of the Exchequer told Parliament University (1972), followed by teaching, mostly food
that the adulteration of coffee with chicory could not be biochemistry, at what became London South Bank
detected. Dr Arthur Hassall, a London physician, success- University, retiring in 2000. In 1982 the Royal Society of
fully contradicted this by simply identifying chicory frag- Chemistry invited Tom to write what became “Food, the
ments microscopically. With his assistant, Dr Henry Biochemistry of its Components”; its 6th edition
Letheby, he went on to complete what was, for its time, a appeared in 2016. Initially a resource for school
massive survey of food and drink adulteration [4]. Sup- chemistry teachers it has become a popular textbook
ported by the newly created Analytical Sanitary Commis- with undergraduates around the world, translated into
sion, 2500 samples were subjected to chemical analysis. several languages.
Alum in bread, iron, lead and mercury compounds in
Dr. Richard Blackburn received
cayenne pepper, copper salts in bottled fruits and pickles,
BSc (1996) and PhD (2000)
and Venetian red (iron oxide) in sauces, potted meats and
degrees in Colour Chemistry
fish, were all detected. Perhaps the most appalling of these
from the University of Leeds. He
results concerned confectionery, as shown in Box 4. These
is Associate Professor of Colora-
results, published in the Lancet, created a considerable stir,
tion Technology at The Univer-
and were even mentioned in Charles Kingsley’s The Water
sity of Leeds, where he heads
Babies (Box 5).
The Sustainable Materials Research Group. Dr Black-
burn’s key areas of research focus around the principles
Box 4 of sustainability and how these principles can be
Of 100 samples of sweets: applied in the fields of materials science, coloration
59 contained lead chromate (yellow) technology, textiles and cosmetics, with much collabo-
15 contained artificial ultramarine (blue), ration with industry. He is co-founder and director of
approx.: Na6–10Al6Si6O24S2–4 University spin-out company Keracol Limited, which
12 contained red lead, i.e. lead oxide develops natural extracts for applications in cosmetics,
11 contained gamboge (yellow; see below) food and other substrates. In 2016 he was awarded the
11 contained Prussian or Antwerp Blue, i.e. crude ferric Silver Medal by the Society of Dyers and Colourists and
ferrocyanide in 2017 he was appointed Reviews Editor for Coloration
10 contained Brunswick Green, i.e. copper oxychloride Technology.
9 contained copper arsenite (green)
6 contained vermillion (red), i.e. mercuric sulphide
respond to the publicity but not necessarily with the
expected result. Recalling Elizabeth Raffald’s 1782 warning
against the practice of using copper salts when pickling
Box 5
green vegetables, in 1855 Crosse & Blackwell, major
“. . . as fast as they hide away the old trash, foolish and
manufacturers of pickles and sauces, bowed to public
wicked people make fresh trash full of lime and poisonous
pressure and introduced enamelled vessels for boiling their
paints, and actually go and steal receipts out of old
vegetables. Unfortunately, for a time sales declined since it
Madame Science’s big book to invent poisons for little
took the public a while to get used to the healthy brown
children, and sell them at wakes and fairs and tuck-
colour [6]. Nowadays, with advances in food technology,
shops. Very well. Let them go on. Dr. Letheby and Dr.
pickle manufacturers have to include caramel to maintain
Hassall cannot catch them, though they are setting traps
the desirable brown colour! A similar situation arose many
for them all day long. . .” [5]
years later in the USA when in the 1990s unsuccessful
attempts were made to market colourless (i.e. without added
UK legislators were not totally inactive in this field. caramel) versions of traditional cola and beer [7].
Around the mid-nineteenth century the Government’s In the UK, several Acts of Parliament were enacted in the
Excise Department employed some 60 or so analytical period up to the end of World War II attempting to prevent
chemists; their main duty was actually the examination of food adulteration, with the first legislative measures specif-
dutiable imported goods, especially wine, spirits, tea and ically directed at food colours being passed in 1925. These
coffee, and their primary concern was really the health of regulations prohibited compounds of antimony, arsenic,
the Exchequer rather than the health of the people. To a cadmium, chromium, copper, lead, mercury, zinc, plus
limited degree some commercial food manufacturers did gamboge, but ignored completely the potential harm from

2 © 2018 The Authors. Coloration Technology © 2018 Society of Dyers and Colourists, Color. Technol., 0, 1–21
Coultate and Blackburn Food colorants

the newer synthetic, coal-tar dyes. Gamboge is the


I I
powdered gum of certain Far-Eastern trees that is the
NaO O O
traditional dye used for the saffron robes of Buddhist monks SO3Na
and also a powerful laxative! By the beginning of the O I I
twentieth century, many of the 80 or so different textile H
N ONa
N
dyestuffs had been borrowed by the food manufacturers,
O
regardless that next to nothing was known of their toxicity. NaO3S SO3Na
The 1925 legislation was fundamentally flawed in that it
1 2
was based on a forbidden list that could be easily
sidestepped. It was not until the 1955 legislation introduced
the more secure concept of a permitted list, i.e. only
substances on the list could be legally used.
A parallel version of these, and subsequent events that took Until the 1990s, most publicly expressed concern about
place in the USA, are available in Adam Burrows’ review [7]. the use of synthetic food colours focused on their potential
carcinogenicity, and the withdrawal of permitted status
almost invariably followed the results of testing with
The present – synthetic colorants laboratory animals. In recent decades attention has moved
In the context of this article the present describes the 1960s to onto the possibility that some food colours might invoke
the present day – a period marked by greater public interest in allergic responses or other manifestations of intolerance,
the food additives issue. Depending on one’s perspective, the particularly in children. The yellow colour Tartrazine (3) has
UK’s membership of the European Economic Community been the principal suspect in this regard, and there is some
(now the European Union (EU) simplified, or complicated, evidence that it may invoke symptoms such as eczema or
food legislation matters. In 1957, 32 synthetic dyestuffs were asthma in 0.01–0.1% of children. Surveys conducted in the
permitted for food use by UK legislation, but by 1973 19 of UK in the 1990s revealed that as many as one in five people
these had been removed from the list, and three more were believed themselves to be allergic to certain foods (by their
added. In 1979, just 11 of these 16 were granted E numbers, personal understanding of the word “allergic”). However, in
permitting their regulated use in the EC. A few others were one keynote investigation [15], when proper diagnostic tests
also permitted for UK use only, with the rest of the EU having were applied to these individuals only one in ten showed a
no use for them [8,9]. Notable among these was Brown FK measurable reaction to the food in question, i.e. 2% or less of
(E154; CI Food Brown 1), a mixture of six synthetic azo dyes, the total adult population. A higher proportion of infants (up
which was used to enhance the brown colour of smoked fish to 8%) show a genuine food allergy.
such as haddock and kippers. The “FK” looks as if it is one of Subsequently, the possibility arose that consumption of
the suffixes common in dyestuff terminology (e.g. in the name Tartrazine and five other food colours, Quinoline Yellow WS
Ponceau 4R), but is in fact an abbreviation of “For Kippers”. (4), Sunset Yellow FCF (5), Carmoisine (6), Ponceau 4R (7)
The safety of food colorants in the EU is currently evaluated and Allura Red AC (8), was associated with higher inci-
by the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) under dences of hyperactivity (Attention Deficit Hyperactivity
Commission Regulation no. 1129/2011 [10]. This is binding Disorder (ADHD)) in susceptible children. In 2007, studies
on all members of the EU. conducted at the University of Southampton provided some
In the USA, the 1960 Color Additives Amendment was support for this suspicion [16]. The studies were unavoid-
the major legislation that determined which colorants could ably hampered by the difficulties, ethical as well as techni-
be added to food [11]. Today in the USA, the Food and Drug cal, of conducting double blind trials with relatively small
Administration (FDA) permits two major classifications of numbers of young children, and where the judgements of the
food colorants: certified (mainly synthetic colorants) [12] effects were largely made by their parents. Despite the
and those exempt from certification [13], which generally support of the UK Food Standards Agency (FSA), the
includes natural pigments, although there is no specific Southampton results failed to convince EFSA, and the
definition of what “natural” means [14]. regulatory position of the suspect colours remained
The amounts of dyestuffs used are usually restricted, unchanged. However, in 2010, the FSA introduced a seem-
sometimes by the term “quantum satis”, that is, no more than ingly innocuous regulation that required any food products
necessary, and no dyestuffs can be used in the majority of sold in the UK which contained any of the six “Southampton
fresh foods, including fresh fruit and vegetables, infant foods, colours” to state on their labels: “May have an effect on
raw meat and fish. The possession of an E number or FD&C activity and attention in children”. Manufacturers who
number in no way implies that the use of a particular dyestuff removed these colours from their products were encouraged
in food is unregulated. For example, in the EU amaranth to add their names to a freely accessible published list.
(E123, C I Food Red 9; 1) may only be used to colour aperitifs This regulation was promptly adopted throughout the
and fish roe, and erythrosine (E127, FD&C Red No. 3; CI Food EU. The combined effect of these two measures was the
Red 14; 2) is restricted to maraschino cherries. Erythrosine is rapid disappearance of the six Southampton colours from
also the only approved synthetic colorant that can be directly food products, particularly confectionery and soft drinks, in
printed onto eggs to give sufficiently water- fast codes (used the UK and the rest of the EU. (It remains to be seen
for communicating data such as best-before dates). In 1990, whether there has since been a detectable improvement in
the FDA instituted a partial ban on erythrosine, with approval the attentiveness of the children raised in the EU.) It should
only given for its use in food applications where the sodium be noted that all six Southampton colours are still permis-
iodide content of the products is below 0.1%. sible for use in the EU [10] (Table 1); in the USA, an FDA

© 2018 The Authors. Coloration Technology © 2018 Society of Dyers and Colourists, Color. Technol., 0, 1–21 3
4
Table 1 Synthetic food colorants currently permitted for use by EFSA [10] and FDA [12]

Permitted in
Commercial name E-number FD&C EU or USA CI Name Structure

Tartrazine E102 Yellow No. 5 Both CI Food Yellow 4 O

NaO N
H N
N SO3Na 3
Coultate and Blackburn Food colorants

N
O
NaO3S

Quinoline E104 None EU only CI Food Yellow 13 O


Yellow WS

4
HN
O (SO3Na)X

Sunset Yellow FCF E110 Yellow No. 6 Both CI Food Yellow 3 O


H
N
N 5

NaO3S SO3Na

Carmoisine E122 None EU only CI Food Red 3 SO3Na

NaO3S N
N
H 6

Ponceau 4R E124 None EU only CI Food Red 7 O


H
N 7
N

NaO3S NaO3S SO3Na

© 2018 The Authors. Coloration Technology © 2018 Society of Dyers and Colourists, Color. Technol., 0, 1–21
Table 1 (Continued)

Permitted in
Commercial name E-number FD&C EU or USA CI Name Structure

Allura Red AC E129 Red No. 40 Both CI Food Red 17


NaO3S O SO3Na

N
N 8
H
O

Patent Blue V E131 None EU only CI Food Blue 5


N N

9
SO3Na

HO
SO3Na

Indigo Carmine E132 Blue No. 2 Both CI Food Blue 1 O


H
NaO3S N
10
N SO3Na
H
O

Brilliant Blue FCF E133 Blue No. 1 Both CI Food Blue 2 SO3Na

© 2018 The Authors. Coloration Technology © 2018 Society of Dyers and Colourists, Color. Technol., 0, 1–21
N N
11

SO3Na
NaO3S
Coultate and Blackburn Food colorants

5
6
Table 1 (Continued)

Permitted in
Commercial name E-number FD&C EU or USA CI Name Structure

Green S E142 None EU only CI Acid Green 50


N N

12
Coultate and Blackburn Food colorants

OH

NaO3S SO3Na

Fast Green FCF E143 Green No. 3 USA only CI Food Green 3 SO3Na SO3Na

N N

13
SO3Na

OH

Brilliant Black BN E151 None EU only CI Food Black 1 NaO3S


O
N
N O HN
N 14
N
H
NaO3S
SO3Na

Brown HT E155 None EU only CI Food Brown 3 NaO3S SO3Na


OH
N N
N N
15
OH

OH

© 2018 The Authors. Coloration Technology © 2018 Society of Dyers and Colourists, Color. Technol., 0, 1–21
Table 1 (Continued)

Permitted in
Commercial name E-number FD&C EU or USA CI Name Structure

Orange B None Orange B USA onlya CI Acid Orange 137

N O
N H
NaO3S N
N 16
O
SO3Na

Citrus Red No. 2 None Citrus Red No. 2 USA onlyb CI Solvent Red 80
O
O
N
N O
H 17

a
Surfaces and casings of frankfurters or sausages, ≤ 150 ppm by wt. of finished product.
b
Skins of mature oranges, ≤ 2 ppm by wt. of whole fruit.

© 2018 The Authors. Coloration Technology © 2018 Society of Dyers and Colourists, Color. Technol., 0, 1–21
Coultate and Blackburn Food colorants

7
Coultate and Blackburn Food colorants

hearing on certified food colorants [17] concluded that “a protons [19]; pheophytin also gives uncoloured canned peas
causal relationship between exposure to color additives and their colour. Cooks have traditionally preserved the colour of
hyperactivity in children in the general population has not leafy green vegetables by adding a pinch of sodium bicar-
been established”. Tartrazine, Sunset Yellow FCF, and bonate to the saucepan to keep the pH above 7: this ruins the
Allura Red AC are all still permitted by the FDA and texture and destroys the ascorbic acid (vitamin C). Fortu-
widely used in food and drink products [12]. nately, modern vegetable-processing techniques such as
Changes in Europe were part of a general trend that had HTST (high temperature short time) can often minimise the
been developing for many years. The original 1979 list of E- formation of pheophytin. However, other food products have
numbered additives already included 11 colours that most to rely on synthetic colours, e.g. the mixture of Tartrazine
consumers would describe as natural rather than chemical and Green S which will always be associated with canned
or synthetic. The degree of processing or modification that peas. The naturally derived alternative to these is sodium
is compatible with the word natural is a matter for copper chlorophyllin (E141; CI Natural Green 3; 19), a bluish
philosophers and advertisers. In addition to the Southamp- green colorant synthesised from chlorophyll with Mg2+
ton six and erythrosine discussed earlier, EFSA and FDA replaced by Cu2+ and the ester link cleaved to remove the
still allow the use of several other synthetic colorants phytol side-chain – this colorant is used in a wide range of
including Patent Blue V (9), Indigo Carmine (10) and foods in the EU [20]. Sodium copper chlorophyllin is much
Brilliant Blue FCF (11); in addition, Green S (12), Brilliant more stable to heat and low pH; it is best described as only
Black BN (14) and Brown HT (15) are allowed in the EU (but fairly soluble in water since it does not penetrate well
are banned in the USA); and Fast Green FCF (13), Orange B through the outer layers of vegetables such as peas. It seems
(16) and Citrus Red No. 2 (17) are allowed in the USA (but unlikely that its range of use will ever extend far beyond the
are banned in the EU) (Table 1). jellied confectionery where it is most frequently encountered
today, and its status as natural does not appear to have been
questioned. With due respect to Elizabeth Raffald’s con-
The present – natural food colorants cerns, it should be pointed out that the contribution of
Green copper chlorophyllin to the copper intake of consumers is a
The green colour that was the subject of Elizabeth Raffald’s tiny fraction of the current figure of 1.4 mg/day recom-
concern illustrates some of the issues that have arisen as mended by qualified nutritionists for males aged 19–64 [21].
natural colorants have begun to replace their synthetic The FDA permits the use of sodium copper chlorophyllin in
predecessors. This is chlorophyll (E140), the plant pigment citrus-based dry beverage mixes only at a limit of ≤ 0.2% by
responsible for capturing the energy of visible light in the wt. of the dry mix [13].

N N N N
Mg Cu
N N N N

O NaO O O Na
O
O
O O O NaO O

18 19

fundamental process of photosynthesis [18]. Chlorophyll a Yellow and orange


(18) is the dominant form of the green pigment found in most The carotenoids are responsible for the yellow, orange (and
higher plants, including the fruit and vegetables we eat – the some red) colours of many fruits and vegetables, and more
green colour arises from the pyrrole-based ring structure than 700 carotenoid pigments have been identified in nature
around a central Mg2+ ion and the extended phytol side- [19]. These tetraterpenoid pigments are characterised by a
chain facilitates the close association with the other lipids of long chain of conjugated double bonds, and the p-electrons
chloroplast membranes. Chlorophyll is extracted for use as a delocalised along the polyene chain are responsible for their
food colour from a variety of plants including grasses, alfalfa, absorbance in the visible spectrum [22], however, this
spinach and stinging nettles. It is quite stable in the electron-rich, highly saturated system does render the chro-
protective environment of the membranes in chloroplasts mophore vulnerable to oxidation during processing and
in the cells of plant leaves; however, when subjected to storage [23]. The structures of several important naturally
prolonged heating in even mildly acidic environments (e.g. occurring carotenoids are shown in Table 2, most of which
school-dinner cabbage), it is converted to a greyish brown are permitted food additives in the EU [10] or in the USA as
derivative, pheophytin, in which Mg2+ is replaced by two colorants exempt from certification in the form of extracts

8 © 2018 The Authors. Coloration Technology © 2018 Society of Dyers and Colourists, Color. Technol., 0, 1–21
Table 2 Carotenoids widely used in Europe [10] for food coloration and related details of food colorants exempt from certification by the FDA [13]

Colour
Common Index
name E-number name FDA Structure

b-carotene E160a CI Food Natural and


Orange 5 synthetic
permitted 20

O O
bixin E160b CI Natural Annatto
Orange 4 extract
O 21
permitted
OH

capsanthin E160c CI Natural Paprika and OH


Red 34 paprika
oleoresin 22
permitted
HO O

lycopene E160d CI Natural Lycopene,


Yellow 27 tomato 23
extract or
concentrate
permitted

lutein E161b – Tagetes (Aztec OH


marigold)

© 2018 The Authors. Coloration Technology © 2018 Society of Dyers and Colourists, Color. Technol., 0, 1–21
meal and extract 24
permitted for
chicken
feed only HO
Coultate and Blackburn Food colorants

9
Coultate and Blackburn Food colorants

[13]. Several carotenoids are commercially synthesised for

Crocetin is the main colorant in saffron; saffron is often referred to as E164 but this designation has no official basis and is not recognised by the FSA or EFSA; legislators currently treat saffron as a food-flavouring ingredient that just happens to
use as food colorants on an industrial scale, by both purely
chemical routes and also by fermentation of appropriate
yeasts or algae; these are b-carotene (20), lycopene (23), and

25
canthaxanthin (25) [24]. Capsanthin (22) is extracted from
the fruits of Capsicum annuum L. (paprika, bell, jalape~ no,

26
cayenne peppers) or Capsicum frutescens L. (piri piri,
O

tabasco peppers) by percolation with a variety of solvents,

OH
primarily hexane, which are removed prior to use [25]. In the

O
EU, capsanthin (E160c) is the listed food colorant, whereas
in the USA paprika oleoresin is listed as the colour additive;
oleoresins are semi-solid extracts composed of a resin in
solution in an essential and/or fatty oil, obtained by evap-
oration of the solvent(s) used for their production [26].
Food carotenoids are actually quite stable at food-
processing temperatures. In the environment of plant
tissues they are well protected from the bleaching action
of atmospheric oxygen by the natural antioxidants present,
notably ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and tocopherols (vitamin
E). Carotenoids are widely used as food colorants, espe-
cially in dairy products (ice cream and desserts) and baked
O

goods (cakes, etc.) [27,28]. In all of these products


HO

carotenoids can be delivered dissolved in the fatty compo-


O

nents of the recipe. They are not required in spreads such


as margarine since the addition of a small proportion of
unhydrogenated palm oil, naturally very rich in b-carotene,
Structure

late in the manufacture of these products, will give the


desired result. These products have to be fortified with
vitamin A to bring them up to the same vitamin levels as
butter. In aqueous environments such as yoghurt, confec-
tionery and cloudy soft drinks, very small crystals of
carotenoids can be added in a carrier such as glycerol [28].
use ≤ 66 mg/kg of food

One particularly interesting carotenoid colorant is the


permitted for general

fish feed ≤ 80 mg/kg

orange-red cis-bixin (21). At first it appears unqualified to be


and for salmonid

a carotenoid/tetraterpenoid since it is deficient in carbon


Canthaxanthin

atoms; however, being naturally synthesised in the plant


permitted

from tetraterpenoid precursors, it is officially an apoc-


Saffron

arotenoid. It is a major constituent of the traditional


FDA

colouring matter annatto, the powdered resinous coating of


the seeds of a widely grown tropical shrub achiote (Bixa
orellana L.), which is traditionally used as the colouring in
red cheeses such as Red Leicester due to its lipid solubility.
Its modest solubility in water is attributed to its carboxylic
provide colour. In the USA, the FDA consider saffron as a food colorant.

acid group, but saponification of the methyl ester at the other


Orange 8

end of the molecule produces the water soluble pigment


CI Food
Colour
Index
name

norbixin [11]. Bixin is specifically prohibited from spices


such as curry powder where its bright colour could give a

false impression of quality. Heat treatment of cis-bixin can


result in the formation of the trans isomer, which is more
lipid-soluble and has a colour shift to more yellow tones [29].
The spice saffron is essentially the dried stigmas of the
E-number

autumn crocus (150,000 per gram of spice) and contains


E161 g

another apocarotenoid, crocetin (26), which also owes its


modest water solubility to carboxylic acid groups. Crocin is
a

the diglycoside of crocetin, where the carboxylic acid


moieties are each esterified with a gentiobiose disaccharide
(Continued)

group, and is also found in saffron, being highly water


soluble as a result of the sugar substituents [11].
canthaxanthin

Most carotenoids, or apocarotenoids, have never had


Common

significant claims of toxicity made against them. Although


crocetin
Table 2

name

widely used in the USA and Asia, canthaxanthin (25) is not


permitted in the EU except for “Saucisses de Strasbourg” –
a

10 © 2018 The Authors. Coloration Technology © 2018 Society of Dyers and Colourists, Color. Technol., 0, 1–21
Coultate and Blackburn Food colorants

α-, β- or γ-carotene
(provitamins A)

liver enzymes

OH
retinol HO
(vitamin A)

Figure 1 The relationship between vitamin A and a-, b- and c-carotenes. The carotenoid structure shown here is that of b-carotene

some concerns have been raised in Europe over its safety against sunlight [31]. Humans cannot synthesise xantho-
following its misuse as a (sun)tanning aid. Certain phylls and uptake is therefore dependent on the consump-
carotenoids have a well-established status as essential tion of certain fruits, vegetables or animal products such as
nutrients – dietary b-carotene, and its a- and c- isomers, eggs [32]. Irreversible blindness linked to age-related mac-
converted in the liver into retinol (vitamin A) (Figure 1), ular degeneration (AMD) has been associated with dietary
notable for its role in vision. Night blindness is the best lutein deficiency [33]. Lutein, extracted from the petals of
known (although not the most important) symptom of marigolds (Tagetes erecta L.), is widely available as an
deficiency. Interestingly, the UK Government’s World War expensive dietary supplement, but is not widely used as a
II campaign which suggested that the success of the RAF’s food colorant [34].
night fighters against the Luftwaffe was down to the pilots’ Astaxanthin (27) is a lipid-soluble xanthophyll pigment
carrot consumption was not, as is often assumed, a ploy to and is present in most red-coloured aquatic organisms. Like
divert enemy attention from British radar developments. It saffron, astaxanthin is often awarded an unofficial E
was actually a cunning and successful plan to encourage number (E161j) but it is not used as an additive in human
children to eat more carrots to compensate for the shortage food. Astaxanthin occurs in shellfish and some fish, notably
of vitamin A-rich dairy products in their wartime diet [30]. salmon and sea trout. The industrial production of astax-
Unfortunately, the efficiency of conversion of dietary b- anthin for use in the feed of farmed salmon and trout comes
carotene to retinol is not high since it is poorly absorbed from both synthetic and natural sources (krill and the
from plant foods, especially when they are eaten raw. cultivated freshwater microalga Haematococcus pluvialis
Lutein (24) is a xanthophyll carotenoid that plays an Flotow). Natural astaxanthin is generally recognised as safe
important role in maintaining eye health and protection (GRAS) by the FDA, and is permitted in salmonid fish feed

O
O O
OH
O

HO OH
HO O
O
27 28

OH HO
HO OH
HO OH HO OH HO
OH
OH HO
O OHO O HO OH
HO OH
HO O
O O O OH OH
HO
O O
HO
O O O
HO

OH HO
29 30

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Coultate and Blackburn Food colorants

at ≤ 80 mg/kg of finished feed, but there is little clinical natural alternative to quinoline yellow. Like saffron, saf-
evidence to support its use as an antioxidant dietary flower petals are treated as a food ingredient, rather than an
supplement [35]. additive which just happens to be coloured.

Besides the carotenoids there are two other natural Red and purple
yellow colours with a long history of food use, turmeric The red and purple natural colours are particularly inter-
and safflower. Turmeric is the dried powdered root of esting and offer plenty of scope for applications as
Curcuma longa L., used for centuries as a spice (especially colorants. Most red, purple and black fruit owe their natural
in Asian cookery where it provides an earthy, slightly bitter colour to a group of pigments known as anthocyanins.
taste as well as its yellow colour) and in Asia as a textile However, before considering those in detail a brief diver-
dye. It is the characteristic ingredient of the English pickle sion to a red pigment of animal origin with a long history of
known as piccalilli and is an essential component of curry use as a food colorant is in order. Cochineal (E120) has been
powders. The greenish yellow oil-soluble pigment in an object of commerce throughout recorded history as a dye
turmeric is curcumin (E100i; CI Natural Yellow 3; 28), for textiles – Cortes, writing in 1520, marvelled at hanks of
which is becoming popular in a variety of manufactured cotton “in all colours” in a Mexican market [37]. As a textile
foods, not just pickles, but also ice cream and other dessert dye, cochineal was applied with an alum mordant and

OH
HO OH
OH O O
HO
O OH

O OH
O O
OH Ca2 Al OH
HO OH O O
OH O O O OH
HO
O OH O OH
HO
HO OH OH O O
HO OH
OH O
OH
31 32

products. Turmeric and turmeric oleoresin are food colours optionally post-mordanted with other metal mordants,
exempt from certification by the FDA [31]. One of its providing a range of bright crimson colours [38].
possible advantages is its reputation for medicinal benefits,
which include an as yet unproven role in slowing down the Cochineal is obtained from aphid-like insects (notably
progress of Alzheimer’s disease [36]. Among its practical Dactylopius coccus Costa) that are harvested from cactus
disadvantages in food colorant roles are its poor water plants, notably the prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica (L.)
solubility and its light sensitivity. Mill.), in various parts of the world, particularly Peru, the
Like turmeric, safflower is another colorant with tradi- Canaries and southern Africa. Cochineal’s principal colorant
tional roles in both textiles and food. The thistle-like is the anthraquinone carminic acid (CI Natural Red 4; 31)
safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) grows readily in arid which contains an interesting C–C glycosidic bond that is
regions and is cultivated as an oilseed source in India, stable to acid hydrolysis; it exists in the insect as potassium
Mexico and the USA. Its red flower petals contain three salt [39]. The free form is used and in aqueous solution at pH 4
water soluble pigments: red-coloured carthamin (29) is is yellow-orange, but the primary use in food is as either
destroyed by light, oxygen and low pH, but its yellow aluminium or calcium lakes, with colours ranging from
precursors, safflor yellow A (30) and safflor yellow B are magenta red to purple [40], the most famous being the bright
more stable, but still tend to fade in bright light; all three red aluminium lake carmine (CI Natural Red 4:1; 32).
contain unusual C-glycoside linkages between the glucose Carmine is heat-stable and maintains its colour in the pH
residue and the aglycon component. In spite of their range (6–8) of food products such as cakes (notably Batten-
instability, these pigments, in the form of dried flower berg) and some confectionery where it has a long history of
petals, are traditional colorants in a number of character- use, with no safety issues raised against it. Unfortunately, it
istically British soft drinks and are being considered as a suffers from two serious drawbacks: firstly, it is very

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expensive; secondly, and even more problematic, is that its storage at room temperature, anthocyanins retain their
insect origins rule it out for Jewish, Muslim and vegan colour; traditionally bottled or canned fruit bear witness
consumers. There would obviously be a case for the chemical to their stability. Modern commercial jam-making pro-
synthesis of a “nature identical” version, if only it could be cesses also do little damage although the prolonged high
achieved economically. Carmine and cochineal extract are temperatures used by commercial and domestic jam-
food colours exempt from certification by the FDA [13]. makers in the past were fairly destructive. It is the
The red, purple and blue colours of fruit, flower petals availability of enzymatically hydrolysed starch syrups that
and some (but not all) vegetables are owed to a class of has facilitated the dramatic improvement in colour and
glycosides known as anthocyanins (33), which are the flavour of commercial jam in recent decades [48]. Anyone
largest group of polyphenolic pigments in the plant king- who has poured cream (ca. pH 6.8) over cooked black-
dom, accumulating solely in the vacuoles of plant cells [41]. currants (juice ca. pH 3–4) will be familiar with the
More than 20 different anthocyanidins (the aglycons) have colour change that results (Figure 2). American-style
been identified in nature, all based on the flavan nucleus, blueberry muffins also demonstrate a colour change
but the six different aglycons shown in Table 3 are the most combined with the yellow colour of egg yolk (Figure 3);
common components found in foods, leading to many the brownness of the crust, which splits to reveal the
anthocyanins, due to the diversity of glycosylation [42]; in blue-green interior, is the result of the combined effects of
total more than 600 anthocyanins have been identified in the neutral pH and the high baking temperature.
nature [43]: their colours are determined by the number of These effects are seen more clearly with isolated
hydroxyl groups (and degree of methylation) and the anthocyanins in vitro, as in Figure 4. The complex pattern
nature, number and position of sugar moieties [44]. The of the ionisation of the anthocyanin chromophore is shown
sugar component(s) usually attached at the 3-O-position in Figure 5. As the pH rises above 3 anthocyanin solutions
may also carry phenolic compounds, notably p-coumaric, start to lose their strong red colour as the proportion of the
sinapic, ferulic or caffeic acids [45]. The great variety of colourless carbinol pseudobase increases. As neutrality is
actual colours one observes in flower petals or raw fruit is to approached the purple and then blue forms of the anhy-
a large extent the result of complex formation with metal drobases come to dominate. In an aqueous solution of pH
ions and/or other phenolic substances present in the plant <3, the anthocyanin is red and the flavan nucleus exists
tissues. The sugar residues are essential in nature since mainly as the very stable flavylium cation (AH+). Increasing
without their interference the phenolic hydroxyl groups pH leads to kinetic and thermodynamic competition
would tend to bind to the surface of enzyme proteins. Their between two reactions. When pH increases, the flavylium
resulting inactivation would have devastating results for the form is in equilibrium with the purple/blue quinonoidal
metabolism of a plant. On the plus side, phenolic groups are base (A) by a deprotonation reaction (pKa1 ca. 3.7) and also
the source of the anthocyanins’ astringency, essential to the with the respective anionic quinonoidal base (A ) at high
flavour of red wine. Anthocyanins are widely permitted as pH (pKa2 ca. 7) that has a blue colour [42,49–52]. Further-
natural sources of food/beverage colorants within Europe more, above pH = 2, the flavylium cation is prone to water
(E163), Japan, the USA and many other countries [46]. addition (hydration) at C-2 (pKh ca. 2–3) yielding the
Grape skin extract has been used as a colorant for more than colourless carbinol pseudobase (B), which may undergo
a hundred years, first being applied to enhance wine colour ring-opening to chalcone pseudobases (C) that exist in
[47]. In the USA, grape-colour extract is obtained as a by- either cis-(Ccis) or trans- (Ctrans) form; both isomers are
product of processing Concord grapes (Vitus labruscana L.), yellowish [53].
but its application is limited by the FDA to non-beverage Co-pigmentation (i.e. interactions between polyphenolics)
food use [13]. is the phenomenon resulting in anthocyanins appearing
The usefulness of anthocyanins as colorants is princi- bluer, brighter, or more intense in intact plant tissues. It can
pally limited by pH. In acid environments, as typically also help to stabilise anthocyanins against light-induced
found in intact fruit or fruit juices, and at ordinary degradation pathways [54]. The characteristic colour of
cooking temperatures, even if followed by prolonged strawberries (Fragaria spp.), whose anthocyanins are almost

Table 3 Structures and absorption maxima for common anthocyanins

Anthocyanin R1 R2 kmaxa

R1 pelargonidin H H 503
cyanidin OH H 517
OH peonidin OCH3 H 517
delphinidin OH OH 526
HO O petunidin OCH3 OH 526
R2 malvidin OCH3 OCH3 529

OGly
OH

33

a
kmax values shown are for corresponding 3-O-glucoside at pH 3.

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2.8 3.3 4.5 5.3 6.0 7.3 7.8


pH

Figure 4 Aqueous solutions of red cabbage anthocyanins in buffers


at a range of pH values

Figure 2 Cooked blackcurrants, with juice, mingling on the plate


with some fresh cream
which it can be used, making them applicable as neutral pH
colorants. It has been demonstrated that red cabbage
extracts containing highly acylated anthocyanins can pro-
exclusively based on pelargonidin, is attributed to co- duce blue hues similar to indigo carmine [55]. This
pigmentation with other polyphenols. In particular, co- increased stability is a result of intramolecular co-pigmen-
pigmentation depends upon intermolecular hydrogen bond- tation effects resulting from acylation of the glycosides with
ing between flavonoid catechol moieties and carbonyl groups hydroxycinnamic and hydroxybenzoic acids (Figure 6) [56].
of anthocyanin anhydrobases [41]. These stacking interac- Acylation also affords greater heat stability at higher pH
tions may also involve self-association (anthocyanin + an- values in comparison with non-acylated anthocyanins [57].
thocyanin), self-association of acylated anthocyanins, and In addition to pH, water in the food system affects
the formation of metal-anthocyanin complexes [51]. Antho- degradation – the more water is able to interact with the
cyanin co-pigmentation is a noncovalent complexation that anthocyanin, the lower the stability [58,59].
has been shown to be the main mechanism by which certain Toxicological data on anthocyanins supports the view
colours, particularly blue, violet, and red, are stabilised and that these pigments pose no threat to human health [60]. In
modulated in flowers, vegetables, fruit and food products fact, dietary consumption of anthocyanins has been asso-
derived from them (e.g. wine and jams) [51]. ciated with many beneficial effects, including anti-inflam-
These pH-driven changes are not a problem in low-pH matory and anti-carcinogenic activities, reduced incidence
products such as confectionery and preserves, but they of cardiovascular disease, control of obesity and diabetes
present a real challenge to manufacturers of dessert prod- alleviation [61].
ucts including milk proteins such as ice cream and Other useful red pigments that are often overlooked are
yoghurts. The anthocyanins of black carrots (Daucus carota those from beetroot (Beta vulgaris L.), betalains. Until the
subsp. sativus var. atrorubens Alef.), a vegetable becoming chemical structure of these compounds was properly
popular in gourmet circles, can provide a partial solution; established they were often described as “nitrogenous
the pKa values of its various transitions are shifted a little anthocyanins”, but in fact they are quite unlike antho-
towards neutrality, increasing the range of food products in cyanins, being indole rather than flavan-based. Of the two
groups of betalains, it is the dominant purplish-red
betacyanins (e.g. betanin, E162, 34) that provide the
characteristic colour of beetroot and which are of interest
as food colorants [48]. In the USA, beet juice (as vegetable
juice) and beet powder (dehydrated beets) are food colours
exempt from FDA certification. The indole ring of the
betacyanins normally carries a glucose residue, but in the
yellow vulgaxanthins (35) the ring is unravelled. These
indole-derived pigments are unique to the botanical order
Caryophyllales (also known as Centrospermae), none of
whose members ever contain anthocyanins, even in their
flower petals. Although they bear no obvious relationship
Figure 3 American-style blueberry muffins. Initially the muffin
batter (ca. pH 6–7 dictated by the egg proteins, raising agents, etc.) to beetroot two other plant genera have also been recog-
has a green shade associated with the blue and purple of the nised as sources of betacyanin pigments. One is the
anhydrobase forms (A and A ) of the anthocyanins blended with prickly pear cactus (Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill.), native
the yellow of the egg yolk. In the oven, the surface temperature is
sufficiently high to decompose the anthocyanins and leave the crust
to Central and South America, which also hosts the insects
the brown shade dominated by the Maillard reaction of the flour that are a source of cochineal. The flower petals of
and egg proteins with the sugar members of the genus Amaranthus, also a member of the

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R1 R1 R1
OH O O
–H+ –H+
HO O HO O O O
R2 R2 R2
+H+ +H+
OGly OGly OGly
OH OH OH
flavylium cation (AH+) anhydrobase (A) anhydrobase anion (A–)
pH < 3 slightly acidic to neutral pH pH > 7.5

–H2 O –H2 O
–H + +H+

R1
OH R1
OH HO OH OH
HO O OGly
R2

OGly R2
OH OH O

carbinol pseudobase (B) chalcone pseudobase (B)


pH 3-6 pH 3-6

Figure 5 Effect of pH on anthocyanin structure and resultant colour. Not shown here are the less well-defined series of irreversible reactions
occurring at high temperatures, leading to the breakdown of the chalcones – the effects of these are visible in the muffin crust in Figure 3

R1

OH
O OH
OH

O R2
HO O O
OH
O OH
O O HO
O
OH OH OH
OH
O

OH

HO

Figure 6 Chemical structures of acylated anthocyanins in black carrots: cyanidin-3-O-(2’’-O-xylosyl-6’’-O-sinapoylglucosylgalactoside) (R1 =


R2 = OCH3), cyanidin-3-O-(2’’-O-xylosyl-6’’-O-feruloylglucosylgalactoside) (R1 = H, R2 = OCH3), and cyanidin-3-O-(2’’-O-xylosyl-6’’-O-p-
coumaroylglucosylgalactoside) (R1 = R2 = H)

Caryophyllales have been used as a source of natural However, in neutral or alkaline environments it breaks
textile pigments for centuries. The synthetic dye CI Food down at cooking temperatures to unattractive brown
Red 9 (E123; 1) was named “amaranth” because of the compounds. This property means that it shares with
similarity of its colour to the natural amaranth pigments. anthocyanins their unsuitability for colouring baked goods
Compared with the anthocyanins, the red colour of the such as cakes or biscuits.
betalains is much less affected by rising pH. The response The problems posed by introducing novel sources of
of its ionisable groups to pH changes has no influence on natural pigments are typified by anka, a red food colour
the conjugated double bond system that is the source of its popular in many Far Eastern countries. Various moulds
colour. It is very stable at the highest temperatures of food- belonging to the genus Monascus are cultivated on steamed
processing and culinary operations provided it is in an rice or other cooked starchy material [62]. The mould cells
acidic environment. Malt vinegar provides just such an contain several structurally related pigments, e.g. rubrop-
environment when beetroot is preserved by pickling. unctamine (36), which collectively impart a purplish red to

© 2018 The Authors. Coloration Technology © 2018 Society of Dyers and Colourists, Color. Technol., 0, 1–21 15
Coultate and Blackburn Food colorants

OH
HO

HO OH
O
O
O OH
HO O
OH
N N O O
O
O HN O
O NH

O
HO OH HO OH O
N N O N
H H H
O O O O O

34 35 36 37

the rice. No attempt is made to extract the pigments from blue chromophore (38), which structurally resembles
the mould cultures; the red rice is simply dried and bilirubin, a breakdown product of haemoglobin in mam-
powdered for direct use in food preparation. The colour is mals. Fortunately there was one species, Arthrospira platen-
undoubtedly “natural”, as are the miscellany of other fungal sis Gomont (once classified in the genus Spirulina), that was
metabolites which may be present. There is a strong already being widely cultivated. This occurs naturally in
possibility that at least some of these could present a tropical and subtropical lakes rich in carbonate and bicar-
hazard to consumers, as do the fungal toxins associated bonate (pH 8–11) and is readily cultivated in large pools
with contaminated peanuts and other crops. While anka with either sunlight or artificial light. It forms thick mats of
remains a popular and legal ingredient in many Far Eastern filaments that are easy to harvest. Dried cells have been sold
countries, the FDA and EFSA are disinclined to legalise it. in tablet form for many years as a high protein food
This would require extensive testing on a variety of animal supplement and numerous studies have claimed additional
species and much more defined, and regulated, manufac- health benefits for its consumption. For a long time it was
turing processes. marketed as a “natural” source of vitamin B12 suitable for
Another purple pigment that has attracted recent interest vegans, but it has now been established that the variant of
for food applications is violacein (37), a naturally occurring the vitamin that it contains cannot be utilised by humans
bis-indole pigment with antimicrobial properties [63] that [65]. It has recently been marketed as a “superfood”. The
occurs in several species of bacteria including Chromobac- blue protein pigment is known commercially as spirulina,
terium violaceum Bergonzini [14]. The water-soluble pig- but there are no details of the process for its extraction and
ment is stable between pH 1–11 and showed no significant purification from the filaments of alga cells, however, its
degradation in a yoghurt system after storage for one month at long history of human consumption has meant that its food
4 °C [64]; it has not yet been approved for use in food [14]. colour use has not provoked any safety issues or public
outcry [66,67]. Technically it has proved an excellent colour
Blue for confectionery, although its application is limited since it
There is a general absence of naturally blue foods (blue- has poor light stability and high heat sensitivity, degrading
berries are certainly not blue). The result of this absence has readily above 45 °C [68]. Spirulina’s regulatory status is
resulted in blue being traditionally regarded as a taboo proving problematical for legislators. If it is to be approved
colour in food packaging, notably associated with the blue as a food additive (complete with an E number) alongside
glass bottles of traditional remedies emphatically labelled the other natural colours such as anthocyanins and
“Not to be taken internally!” The synthetic blue food carotenoids, etc., then spirulina would have to undergo
colorants, Indigo Carmine, Brilliant Blue FCF and Patent time-consuming and expensive toxicological scrutiny. The
Blue V were not included in the Southampton Six but have alternative is the rather dubious classification of “colouring
nevertheless become unacceptable to the public in the EU, food stuff”, the best known example of this being saffron.
especially in children’s confectionery; FD&C Blue No. 1 and The regulatory fate of spirulina has now been in the EFSA’s
No. 2 are, however, still widely used in the USA. In intray for some time while its use in confectionery grows in
response to public disquiet, Nestle replaced blue smarties popularity! Concentrated solutions of spirulina can be
with white ones. To the surprise of many in the confec- found on supermarket shelves for domestic use as a blue
tionery industry this change generated uproar in the social food colour for cake icing, etc. It is left to individual UK
media from people who wanted their blue smarties back! local authorities to challenge spirulina’s unregulated use,
Fortunately there was one potential source of natural blue but any prosecution would have to demonstrate that its use
pigments – blue-green algae. was injurious to health. Unsurprisingly no prosecutions
In spite of their name, blue-green algae are actually have yet taken place. In the USA, spirulina extract is
photosynthetic bacteria, the Cyanobacteria (or Cyanophyta). exempt from certification by the FDA for coloration of
Besides chlorophyll, their photosynthetic machinery confections (including candy and chewing gum), frostings
includes a protein, C-phycocyanin, which contains a bright (icing), ice cream and frozen desserts, dessert coatings and

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toppings, beverage mixes and powders, yogurts, custards, are particularly abundant in the leaves and shoots of the
puddings, cottage cheese, gelatine, breadcrumbs, and ready- tropical and subtropical shrub, Camellia sinensis (L.)
to-eat cereals (excluding extruded cereals) [13]. Kuntze, i.e. tea; in this case, the enzymic browning
Some recent research has explored the possible applica- reactions are a necessary, and desirable, part of the
tion of nature’s techniques for colouring flower petals blue production process [76].
[50,69,70] by associating anthocyanins with other phenolics Much more relevant to this article are the products of
or aluminium ions; at the right ratio of Al3+ or Fe3+ cation- non-enzymic browning, the chemical reactions associated
to-anthocyanin such chelates develop blue colours above with reactions of carbohydrates when they are heated.
pH 2.5 [71]. However, the inherent problems posed by the When strongly heated in the absence of proteins or amino
nature of the food matrix, and the need for long-term acids, sugars give rise to brown pigments in a complex and

HO N HN
O O
O
NH H

HO
H O
S protein
O HN H
HO OH
O H

38 39

stability, makes this a very difficult objective, especially poorly defined sequence of reactions known as caramelisa-
when consumers’ enthusiasm for blue food and drink is so tion. When subjected to high temperatures in the presence
limited. of proteins, in cooking or baking, a similar sequence of
An iridoid glycoside pigment called geniposide is present reactions occurs – the Maillard reaction, which is now
in the fruit of Gardenia jasminoides J.Ellis; the aglycon, recognised as the source of desirable colours and flavours in
genipin (39), is formed by enzymatic hydrolysis and treated cooked (especially baked) foods where carbohydrates and
with amino acids to produce the blue pigment gardenia blue proteins occur together.
[62,72]; it is approved for use in Japan but not the EU or the For centuries cooks have been partially burning sugar in
USA [11,73]. metal pans over strong heat to generate a sticky brown
material, caramel, that can be used to both colour and
Brown flavour food. The residue from sugar-refining, molasses,
Brown colours arise in food by two distinct processes was used for the same purpose. Caramel (CI Natural Brown
associated by consumers with quite different groups of 10) for commercial use in food colouring is manufactured
foods. Furthermore, one of the processes, associated with by controlled heating of carbohydrates either alone (Class I,
fresh fruit and vegetables, is largely undesirable; the other E150a), in the presence of alkali and sulphite (Class II,
associated with carbohydrate-rich baked foods is largely E150b), in the presence of ammonia (Class III, E150c), or in
desirable. The first of these is described as “enzymic the presence of ammonia plus sulphite (Class IV, E150d).
browning”. This occurs when physical impact, fungal or However, they do not qualify for the epithet “natural”
insect attack damages plant cell membranes and allows the unless their manufacture and use resembles traditional,
cytoplasm, with its array of enzymes, to mix with the domestically prepared burnt sugar [77]. Large quantities of
contents of the cell vacuoles which contain a variety of caramels are used in a wide range of food and drink
phenolic compounds [74]. The cytoplasmic enzyme pheno- products including beer, spirits, cola, confectionery, soup
lase catalyses the oxidation of the phenolics to o-diphenols and dairy products – in terms of bulk they are by far the
and then o-quinones; these are highly reactive and sponta- most heavily used class of food colorants. Of the various
neously polymerise to the brown pigments that characterise classes of caramel, only Class III has raised concern on
the cut surfaces of potatoes, bananas, etc. exposed to the air grounds of toxicological safety and the Joint FAO/WHO
[75]. Though aesthetically unappealing and providing a Expert Committee on Food Additives (JECFA) has estab-
negative indicator to consumers, this process provides an lished 200 mg/kg body weight as an acceptable daily intake
essential defence against mould growth. Conversely, there (ADI). Beer is by far the most significant source of Class III
is one group of phenolase substrates, the catechins, which caramel in the diet, but exceeding the ADI would require

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daily consumption of over 20 l; its alcohol content would issue of genetic modification (GM) may significantly limit
raise more significant health issues. their application as both foods and sources of food colorants
A novel approach to the issue of whether caramels can be in the Europe due to EU restrictions on GM; the last approval
regarded as natural has been adopted by one manufacturer for a GM food crop in the EU came in 1998. Despite being
of traditional caramels in the USA. A variety of fruit or developed at the John Innes Centre in the UK, large-scale
vegetable juice concentrates are intensively cooked and production is now under way in Canada as Canadian
further concentrated to become brown-colouring materials regulations are seen as more supportive of GM [81]. A key
with residual flavour elements characteristic of the original question is whether a GM product that may have health
raw material. Not containing any ingredients that might be benefits will influence public opinion; a major survey across
construed as synthetic, artificial or unnatural, they can be the EU in 2010 found opponents outnumbered supporters by
marketed without reference to food additive legislation. approximately three to one.
Significant research at The University of Porto on the
isolation and hemi-synthesis of anthocyanin-derived pig-
The future ments found in aged Port red wines has led to identification
Anthocyanins are seen as an area of significant potential for of a family of rare pyranoanthocyanin pigments (40) that
food colorants and there is an ongoing global search for present a blue colour (kmax = 575 nm) at acidic pH [82].
edible plants that contain these pigments, particularly those These pigments were comprised of a pyranoanthocyanin
with desirable colours and good stability [11]. Research moiety linked to a flavanol by a vinyl bridge formed through
groups have developed biotechnological methods to pro- the reaction of anthocyanin-pyruvic acid adducts with
duce anthocyanins through plant tissue cultures as an vinyl-flavanol adducts. The extended conjugation of the p
alternative to crop production [78], although none have electrons throughout the entire pigment molecule is likely
been commercialised. to confer a higher stability on it and is probably the origin of
Researchers have also examined the possibility of using the intense blue colour. The researchers also identified a
biological engineering techniques as possible methods to new family of pyranoanthocyanin dimers (41) displaying an
produce anthocyanins in large quantities. The tomato extraordinary turquoise-blue colour (kmax = ca. 730 nm) in
(Solanum lycopersicum L.) is seen as an excellent vehicle aged Port wine [83]. These compounds comprise two
for such engineering, despite anthocyanins normally being pyranoanthocyanin moieties linked together through a
absent in tomato fruit [79]. Ectopic fruit-specific expression methyne bridge formed from reaction between carboxypyra-
of transcription factor proteins from snapdragon (Antir- noanthocyanins and methylpyranoanthocyanins. However,
rhinum majus L.) resulted in accumulation of anthocyanins the compounds have poor water solubility, limiting their
throughout tomato fruit in high concentrations; the most industrial application as food colorants. Researchers
abundant anthocyanins expressed were shown to be an recently produced a new blue portisin-derived (vinylpyra-
acylated delphinidin glycoside and an acylated petunidin noanthocyanin) pigment (42), resultant from the reaction of
glycoside [80]. These purple tomatoes have significant A-type vitisin (carboxypyranomalvidin-3-glucoside) with 4-
potential as foods with high nutritional benefit and also for (dimethylamino)-cinnamic acid [84]. The presence of an
producing reliable, high quantities of anthocyanins for other amino group in the structure is responsible for extensive p-
applications, including as food colorants. However, although delocalisation and the associated intense blue colour
ectopic expression can be caused by natural processes, the (kmax = 638 nm).

O O
OH OH

HO O HO O
O O O
OH
OR OR
O O HO O
OH O
OH
OR
HO O O
O
OH
RO
OH OH
OH O
HO O O OH

HO
OH
O N
OH

R = glucose or coumaroylglucose R = glucose or coumaroylglucose R = glucose

40 41 42

18 © 2018 The Authors. Coloration Technology © 2018 Society of Dyers and Colourists, Color. Technol., 0, 1–21
Coultate and Blackburn Food colorants

In an attempt to increase the stability of anthocyanins, Microalgae are being developed as a new source of food
the Porto researchers attempted acylation of anthocyanins. colorants since they are the major source of certain natural
Compared to other flavonoids, chemical modifications in pigments [110]. Different chlorophylls are readily available in
anthocyanins are highly challenging because of the positive most microalgae. In addition, b-carotene is found in green
charge in the flavylium form, the various equilibrium forms microalgae (Chlorophyta), brown microalgae (Diatomo-
in solution, low solubility in organic solvents, and suscep- phyceae), cryptomonads (Cryptophyta), euglenoids (Eugleno-
tibility to degradation in neutral and basic conditions. Cruz phyta) and dinoflagellates (Dinophyta); xanthophylls are seen
et al. [85] successfully acylated malvidin-3-glucoside with in blue-green microalgae (cyanobacteria), green microalgae,
stearoyl chloride to provide the stearic acid derivative, but brown microalgae, cyanobacteria and euglenoids; astaxan-
the reaction was not regioselective and mono-, di- and tri- thin is present in green microalgae; and phycobiliproteins are
ester derivatives were isolated that were very difficult to found in cyanobacteria and cryptomonads [110]. Several
separate. In contrast, the research group showed that factors have to be considered in microalgal pigment produc-
regioselective synthesis (where only the primary –OH on tion in order to achieve the highest levels of pigments in the
the glucose moiety was derivatised) of a malvidin-3-gluco- cells. Light and temperature are the most important factors
side-oleic acid ester derivative was achieved by enzymatic that affect overall biomass production [111]; Arthrospira spp.
catalysis with Candida antarctica Lipase B (CalB), giving (cyanobacteria) prefer low light intensities in production of
only one ester product [86]; the derivative was more phycobiliproteins [112], whereas b-carotene production in
lipophilic and more stable to oxidation. Dunaliella salina (Dunal) Teodoresco (a green microalgae) is
Research on lipophilic food colorants has focused on greater in higher light intensities [113]. The optimum
green chemistry approaches to extract lycopene from temperature for the production of most pigments from most
tomatoes [87–93], lutein from marigolds [94,95], curcumin microalgae was in the relatively narrow region of 25–36 °C
from turmeric [96–99], bixin from annatto [100], capsanthin [110]. However, it has been demonstrated that higher
from peppers [101,102], using more environmentally temperatures between 55 and 60 °C were optimal for the
friendly and less toxic solvents. This is desirable from a production of total carotenoids from green microalgae
sustainability and toxicological perspective, but can also [114,115]. The potential concentrations of such pigments in
give higher yields with better colour and flavour [103]. microalgal sources significantly outweigh vegetable/fruit
Greener solvents and methods include supercritical carbon sources – spinach has a chlorophyll content of 0.06 mg/kg,
dioxide [89,91,94,95,98,100–102,104,105], microwave- whereas A. platensis biomass contains 1.15 mg/kg, nearly 20
assisted extraction [88,96,98,106], ultrasound-assisted times the concentration [110]. New, clean extraction tech-
extraction [88,90,92,93,97,98,107,108], enzyme-assisted niques described above offer significant potential in being
extraction [91,92], and continuous counter-current extrac- translated to the extraction of pigments from microalgae.
tion [87]. Food-processing waste is an attractive source of
food colorants and these novel extraction methods have Conclusions
been employed usefully in extracting b-carotene from Whether we are purchasing fresh vegetables from a market
tomato waste [93], lycopene from tomato waste stall, ready meals from the supermarket, eating at home or
[93,104,105], and lycopene from papaya waste [108]; other in a five-star restaurant, we use colour to give us clues as to
interesting source materials such as gac fruit (Momordica what to expect in terms of taste, nutrition and safety. This is
cochinchinensis (Lour.) Spreng.) have been explored as a very different to our approach to the colour of the other
source of lycopene and b-carotene [106]. things we buy. The colour of a coat doesn’t tell us how
Other sources of food waste have also been examined as a warm or waterproof it will be. The colour of a car doesn’t
potential source of food colorants. Guyot et al. [109] tell us how fast or safe it will be. This review has considered
developed a new bright yellow and highly water-soluble the techniques that have, over the years, been employed to
dye from apple pomace, the major by-product of apple juice modify the colour of our food, and the interactions of these
and cider production, as a potential natural alternative to techniques with questions of safety and nutrition. On
tartrazine. The yellow pigment (POPj) is formed in high supermarket shelves, the proliferation of products with
yields by oxidation of phloridzin (found in high concentra- labels stating that they contain “No artificial colours”
tions in apple pomace) by polyphenol oxidase (PPO) suggests that the future of the azo dyes and various
enzymes (Figure 7). POPj has a bright yellow colour at pH derivatives is limited. If the fate of the Southampton Six
3–5, turning orange at higher pHs, and was only weakly is any guide, it will be consumer choice rather than
degraded by prolonged storage at ambient temperature. legislation that wields the axe. Neither should we be too

O OH O
HO OH OH HO OH OH
HO O
PPO activity PPO activity
intramolecular intramolecular
O nucleophilic nucleophilic O
O O
R addition R OH addition O
R O
OH
phloridzin POPi POPj

Figure 7 Synthesis of the yellow pigment POPj by oxidation of phloridzin by polyphenol oxidase (PPO) enzymes

© 2018 The Authors. Coloration Technology © 2018 Society of Dyers and Colourists, Color. Technol., 0, 1–21 19
Coultate and Blackburn Food colorants

optimistic about the outcome of searches for more “new” 17. Food Advisory Committee, Background Document for the
natural colours. The new developments that food colour Food Advisory Committee: Certified Color Additives in Food
and Possible Association With Attention Deficit Hyperactivity
manufacturers proclaim tend to turn out to be no more than Disorder in Children (Washington: United States Food and
enhanced vehicles for delivering established natural pig- Drug Administration, 2011).
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It appears likely that the food colouring issue will Natural Food Colorants, Eds. G A F Hendry and J D Houghton
(New York: Blackie Academic & Professional, 1996).
actually follow in the pioneering footsteps of food season- 19. S J Schwartz, vonElbe J H and M M Giusti, Colorants, In
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in their food would “harden their pulse” [116]. Since the (Boca Raton: CRC Press, 2008).
1980s various medical authorities around the world have 21. Public Health England, National Diet and Nutrition Survey,
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