Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 2010-10
Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 2010-10
Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 2010-10
Capri Sweet
✁
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PASTRY
MEETING BETWEEN
HEMISPHERES
thinking of a playful solution
We were speaking of Gianluca Fusto, class of 1975, before he became a
household name thanks to his brilliant career first as chef pâtissier in renow-
ned restaurants, then as a Valrhona demonstrator.
He was a student at the Carlo Porta hotel-management school of Milan, when
we awarded him a prize. Since then we have met several times – the world of
sweets is a small one indeed – with increasing regularity; we admire the diffi-
cult path he has taken for his training, and his ability to bring together, with hu-
mility and a strong desire to understand, culture, science, history, research
and experimentation, all mixed with the instinct and courage of going beyond.
And these are the primary elements of his love and passion for confectionary.
Gianluca expresses these feelings in the way he acts, speaks and researches;
they have let him acquire his own personal style in which details are funda-
mental.
And it is with the details that we begin our chat, which both of us wanted, so
as to be able to talk about this new phase in Gianluca's professional develop-
ment, and more.
2 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
What he represents today is a synthesis of
his past and of the people he has met, be-
"Aimo Moroni taught me how to respect the raw
ginning with Aimo Moroni, a father of sorts,
and not only professional. "Working at his
material; Frédéric Bau, Yann Duytsche and the
side means letting oneself be permeated by l’Ecole du Grand Chocolat Valrhona taught me
the magic of ingredients, the alpha and
omega of a style of cooking that listens," he the rigour of technique, rheology and taste"
confides. And then there are other names:
Enrico Parassina, the master of sugar, How do you act in practice? aesthetic isomorphism. It is a journey to the
gave him a feel for the range of colours, I follow the dogma "separate and bring to- heart of matter that finds confirmation in our
while prominent members of the French gether". I enjoy moving in the wake of the senses. And the final alchemy happens
Ecole du Grand Chocolat Valrhona, Frédé- elements that form matter, following one when technique, attention to detail and per-
ric Bau and Yan Duytsche, conveyed pre- rule: three products, three structures, three fectionism turn into joy, gourmet pleasure,
cision, rigour and technique. At Tain consistencies, three temperatures, three co- and a smile.
l'Hermitage Gianluca arrived at the start of lours. In short, the multiples of three diffe- Could you describe exactly what ele-
the new millennium as first foreign pastry rent sensations to provide the palate with ments you take into consideration?
chef: working side by side with chemists, complete emotion. Using completeness of taste as a starting
physicians and food engineers let him un- Then I move in the direction of essence, point, you seek to satisfy and interact with
derstand better the world of ingredients, also where thematic suggestions intersect with the seven sensations that allow you to reco-
with reference to the human organism and clarity of taste, geometry of shapes, and ne- gnise taste: sight, hearing, smell, aromas,
the nature of taste. atness of colour, according to the laws of kinesthetic sensations, texture and tempe-
Today the time is ripe for convergence bet-
ween laboratory and cuisine, technique,
creativity and grand products. In 2008 Gian-
luca Fusto Consulting was established, a
mix of courses, consultancy and the sharing
of knowledge aimed at all food sectors.
His confectionary is of a simple nature, dra-
wing on the four elements evoked through
elegant periphrasis, between glimpses of
journeys to distant lands and self-assured
citations of contemporary art. In the pipeline
this year is Laboratorio del Dolce Con-
temporaneo, a joint effort with Aimo, re-
proposing recipes of ten years ago,
lightening when necessary and fixing aro-
mas when useful. In short, Gianluca is a
contemporary alchimist of food.
SEMPLICITÀ WAS CREATED FOR THE CHRISTMAS PERIOD AND FOR FESTIVITIES. IT IS A
SIMPLE SWEET, WITH A NEAT SHAPE AND DESIGN, IN WHICH GEOMETRY IS THE KEY ELEMENT.
THE WHITE CHOCOLATE AND COCOA BUTTER SHELL, WHICH IS SPRAYED FOR DECORATION, IS
PRESENTED VERTICALLY, EVEN IF TASTING IS HORIZONTAL. THIS IS TO UNDERLINE THE PRINCI-
PLE OF CONVIVIALITY ON CHRISTMAS DAY, BUT ESPECIALLY THE SPIRIT OF FESTIVITY AND
SURPRISE.
INSIDE THERE IS A BLEND OF AROMAS RANGING FROM WHITE CHOCOLATE AROMATIZED WITH
YUZU AND A SOUR-CHERRY GELATINE AND A CRUNCHY ALMOND BISCUIT WITH CHOCOLATE.
2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16 3
PASTRY
"My aim is to
generate emotions at
the moment of tasting,
bringing to life a magic
made of visual (design, colour)
and gustative emotions"
"THIS CAKE CAME ABOUT AFTER A TRIP TO MADAGASCAR, FULL OF PERFUMES, SENSATIONS AND EMO-
TIONS, ONE WHICH I AM PARTICULARLY FOND OF BECAUSE IT WAS THE FIRST TIME I VISITED A COCOA
PLANTATION."
MADAGASCAR IS BUILT AROUND A DESIRE TO REVISIT THE JAM TART. ON A STREUSEL OF COCOA
"The most difficult AND SALT IS A MANJARI MOUSSE COMBINED WITH A COFFEE GELATINE WITH TANARIVA MILK CHOCOLATE
AND VANILLA CARAMEL; EVERYTHING IS CLOSED BY A VERY THIN CHOCOLATE CRUST (RATHER LIKE A
CHOCOLATE SWEET) BONBON AND SPRAYED WITH COCOA BUTTER.
aspect of our work is finding THE MINIMAL SHAPE IS DICTATED BY SIMPLICITY, ELEGANCE AND THE BEAUTY OF THE AFRICAN ISLAND.
between technical rigour and To build a dish and provide emotion to the palate, rules are necessary.
Taste is something defined by perfume, aroma and flavour. Few
a desire for change" speak of sensations in the mouth (which can be creamy, crunchy, li-
quid, or semi-liquid), which result in consistency. The human body is
rature, based on levels of sugar and fat. Without forgetting rheology a complex machine. Very important are creativity, technique and re-
and the range of its possible behaviours, to then choose the role it spect for ingredients, which must be set off with specific techniques.
can play in the dish. What comes first: the ingredient or technique?
On the basis of the articulation of taste, the structures and design are I go against the flow. I start with the product and then select the te-
selected, combining textures to shapes. I always try to ensure that te- chnique, not the other way round. I do not seek virtuosity as an end
chnique is at the service of the ingredient, conceptuality intrinsic to in itself, but as something directed at the product. Alpha and omega.
the palate. The right recipe is the one that adapts to the raw mate- The beauty of a mosaic is having tesserae of the same importance.
rial and to its possible elaborations, in terms of procedure and design. And what about selling appeal?
Are there any other aspects on an aesthetic level? This is the end result of all the work: maximum attention to detail,
Colour and shape are also of great importance: visual clarity evokes not only aesthetic, but also with regards taste. Because it is stan-
the simplicity of confectionary by means of subtraction, which remo- ding out in terms of technique and technology, a respect for ingre-
ves the superfluous in search of the essence. Without ever forgoing dients, and originality that makes the difference.
gourmandise, because dressage and visual sensations must create What are your suggestions for those who are bearing the
an uncontainable desire to plunge the spoon into the dessert. brunt of the crisis?
There is no use feeling sorry for yourself if you do not seek new
ground. Sure, there is a crisis but we have to take it head on, un-
derstand it, analyse it and make the most of what others offer. This
means reconsidering one's work because we need to put ourselves
into question in order to understand how we can express ourselves
in order to go beyond habit, convention and the crisis. We need to
take a fresh look at every detail and evaluate what products we sell
best in order to offer even better.
What more can you tell us about the crisis?
You need to have the courage and awareness to take a fresh look at
production based on sales, so that the client can also see the evolu-
tion and is tempted to change. This means putting yourself into que-
stion again and reorganising yourself, but it also means sending a
strong message to the client. There is a need to go beyond the stan-
dard and to ask questions. All too often the attitude is one of resi-
gnation without seeking to change the situation. But if something is
"WITH SEMPLICEMENTE CIOCCOLATO, AMARENA E NOCCIOLA not working, complaining will not solve the problem.
I PRESENT THE COMBINATION THAT I LOVE AND THAT HAVE MADE ME FALL IN
What do you mean by "going beyond"?
LOVE WITH THE WORLD OF CHOCOLATE: GUANAJA, HAZELNUTS AND SOUR CHER-
RIES. THE AROMATIC POWER OF A FINE SELECTED COCOA, THE FULL-BODIED I mean not stopping at standard procedures. Today everything is nor-
TASTE OF TONDE AND GENTILI HAZELNUTS, AND THE SWEET SOUR FLAVOUR OF
malised for questions of time, personnel, and costs, and so one tries
CANDIED SOUR CHERRIES: HOW DELIGHTFUL!"
to make products that are as similar to each other as possible with
4 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
WITH TIRAMISÙ A MODO MIO I WANT TO REVISIT A CLASSIC THAT NEVER
WANES, WHICH REMINDS ME OF MY CHILDHOOD AND THOSE PRECIOUS AND RARE
SUNDAY MOMENTS SPENT AT HOME WITH MY FAMILY.
THE DISH IS STILL BASED ON STRUCTURES, ON RESPECT FOR THE TASTE OF THIS
GREAT SWEET KNOWN THE WORLD OVER, BUT ALSO ON THE REDISCOVERY OF A
CLASSIC COMBINATION (ALBEIT SOMEWHAT FORGOTTEN) OF LEMON RIND AND
COFFEE.
2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16 5
NEWS
INTERPRETATIONS
BETWEEN PAST AND FUTURE
A DIFFERENT APPROACH
A change of style defines Costa Group present approach. The bo-
oths fitted out at two international events such as Iba and Host
were the translations of today market’s requirements: quality, con-
sistency and transparency.
The space was divided into an old style Italian bakery and a mo-
dern lounge-coffee bar, using innovative solutions to show the pro-
ducts. On the one hand, the style of the bakery recalled the Italian
shops of the Fifties: the pastry counter in crude marble, the back-fitting composed of a
wooden expository trolley, the lab at sight, the furnace’s hood in copper, the white pot-
tery at the walls, and then… rolling pins, oven shovels, ancient balances, writings,
blackboards and old style graphics. Besides the nostalgic hue there was also the te-
chnology of furnaces and expositive counters, and through the partnership with com-
panies such as Bindi and Bakermark Italia the place was rich of colours and flavours,
thanks to a big variety of cakes, desserts, breads and focaccias. On the other hand,
the white and green lounge-cafeteria was more modern and it evoked a carefree sea
atmosphere. A very big gazebo was fitted as a winter garden, with small tables, flo-
wers, vases, colourful beach umbrellas and books, where it was possible to sit down
and taste the coffees and herb teas.
CARAMEL GLAZE
Adding a final touch to the finest cakes, Fabbri 1905 gla-
zes are clear icings which create a uniform finishing
cover on cakes and semifreddos. Their brilliant colour
(which stays the same at temperatures above or below
freezing) make them the right aid for pastry chefs who
want to add a unique, imaginative touch to their crea-
tions. The glazes cut perfectly and always have a deli-
cious yet subtle flavour.
Today Fabbri 1905 adds a new product to the range:
Caramel glaze. Caramel, which is made by cooking
sugar until it melts, it is transformed into a glaze, making
even the simplest cakes irresistibly tantalising, delighting
not only customers’ palate
but their eyes, too.
www.fabbri1905.com
6 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
EASTER
CHOCOLATE
EASTER EGGS
8 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16 9
EASTER
Photos Bononi
From left, Palmira and Andrea, with Lara and Daniele Slitti.
10 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
A building in Emerald City, in the Land of Oz. Tin Man, one of Dorothy’s fellow travellers. Scarecrow, another fellow traveller.
Fantasy genre, horror fiction and exotic imagery have always been sources
of inspiration for the chocolatier ANTONIO LE ROSE. He loves to recreate
dreamlands and imaginary places and characters using chocolate, always
paying attention to practical details through his technical ability and skills.
These chocolate eggs refer to the celebrated fantasy musical movie “The
Wizard of Oz”, by Victor Fleming, 1939, illustrating the adventures of a
young girl, Dorothy, in a marvellous and dangerous magic land.
Photos Pace
Le Rose took inspiration form the visual art of native Australians for the decoration of these Easter eggs.
2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16 11
EASTER
12 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
It’s all here.
For more than sixty years, we at
I C A M L I N E A P R O F E S S I O N A L E . Y O U R I N S P I R AT I O N , O U R PA S S I O N.
w w w.ic ampr ofe s sionale.it
NEWS
14 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
at last...
o vered
di s c
...I G I C ”wa y
a new “MA to show
my
pro
du
cts
!
Ital Proget, offers a new way to show products thanks to Magic line includes gelato, confectionery, cold and hot
Magic showcase line; the innovative idea is represen- gastronomy showcases, which can be canalized.
ted above all by the original way of showing drinks. Beyond the perfect visibility of products, Magic
Choosing a drink has never been so easy as it is with showcases were designed with a practical glass top for
Magic Bar. consumption.
CAPRI SWEET
Mozzarella mousse Skin of milk
milk g 500 milk a.r.
buffalo mozzarella (about 250 g) no. 1 Heat the milk in a large pan until a skin on the surface is formed. Delica-
cream g 150 tely remove this with your fingers without breaking it, place it on some
gelatine sheets no. 2 transparent film and store.
granulated sugar g 50
Chop up the mozzarella with the milk, cover and let it stand for about one
Garnish
hour. Then pass the lot through a chinois strainer. Bring the cream to
70°C and dissolve in it the sugar and gelatine, previously softened. Then vanilla oil, carbon sugar, granulated sugar, Maldon salt, lemon
add this to the infusion of mozzarella and pour the mixture in a siphon. Let basil, fennel
it stand in the refrigerator for about four hours.
Dressage
Garnish the milk skin with the mozzarella mousse, trying to give it a roun-
Candied dwarf tomatoes ded shape that looks like a small mozzarella; arrange two or three toma-
dwarf tomatoes toes with the juice from the cooking, lightly grate some mozzarella with
granulated sugar, and then add some Maldon salt crystals.
butter Place some carbon sugar in a melon-pear and, to season, make an infu-
millefiori honey sion of olive oil and vanilla. Decorate with small leaves of lemon basil and
ginger, Tahiti vanilla, fresh mint, lemon grass some fennel.
Peel the dwarf tomatoes, fry them slightly in a buttered pan, add a spo- Stefano Baiocco
onful of millefiori honey, a vanilla pod open in half and some slices of fresh Grand Hotel Villa Feltrinelli – Gargnano, Brescia
ginger. Repeatedly glaze the tomatoes and finish cooking in a 60°C oven www.villafeltrinelli.com
for about 2-3 hours. Photos Francesca Brambilla – Serena Serrani
Once removed from the oven add a julienne of fresh mint. Store.
16 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
characteristics:
SWEET
SENSATIONS OF SICILY
Tirrimulluri
An ancient sweet, typical of the town of Randazzo. After the grape har- found in bakeries, not because they are difficult to make, but because fin-
vest, people would go and pick the small bunches of grapes that had ding freshly drawn must from a vat and the right ash (i.e. clean and dry)
been left on the vines. This would then be taken home and crushed. Then, is everything but easy.
without giving the must a chance to ferment, it was boiled with the ashes
of the vine wood, called sciarmenti, which even today is burnt to ash. This cooked wine kg 1
is then passed through a sieve until you get a powder that is added to the semolina wheat flour g 500
must and boiled. After the first boiling, it is removed from the heat and al-
lowed to cool. Subsequently, it is filtered through a cloth in order to eli- 00 flour g 100
minate any ash residues. This cooked wine is ideal for making fruit pickle. toasted almonds g 150
For the tirrimulluri on the other hand, the must, after the first boiling is toasted hazelnuts g 150
then boiled again until reduced to a third of the original quantity. At this dried figs g 100
point, the must has turned into a very spicy wine caramel. This is the hal- After carrying out the boiling operations on the must mentioned above,
lmark of the tirrimulluri, which together with other local products such as heat again and sprinkle in the flours, stirring continuously so lumps do
almonds, walnuts, dried figs, hazelnuts, and wheat flour, give this sweet not form; add the coarsely chopped dried fruit and figs and mix together.
its unique flavour. It is very popular among older generations, who would Place on a table and make a stick. Cut this into 50-70 g pieces and make
prepare them as early as November in order to eat them on Christmas biscuits with a light “s” shape, rolling it out on some caster sugar to make
Eve with a hot glass of cooked wine in which they would dunk the tirri- the sweet slightly crispy on the surface. Bake at 200°C for 12 minutes.
mulluri. What a treat in those days! So we can say they were the typical
sweets of winters past. Today they are considered delicacies no longer Salvatore Caggegi
18 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
Cooked wine mostarda
must
(with relatively high sugar content) l 10
starch g 400
cinnamon stick (optional)
Boil the must to reduce it by half; take about one litre of reduced must and
cool and dissolve the starch. Pour again in the must and bring to the boil, stir-
ring continuosly. When it tickens, place in moulds and cool. Dry in the sun.
Angelo Motta
This book is a journey through time and sweet tradition in search of the most authentic Sicilian identity. The au-
thor Salvatore Farina describes the most significant stages of the island’s millenial history using sweets as living
icons, giving them voice and a new life. Glossy photographs, taken by the author himself, illustrate evocative de-
scriptions of preparations, and the invitation to taste is more than explicit and goes far beyond the pleasures of
the palate. The author encourages the reader to seek out in person the artistic and landscape attractions of Sicily
and its confectioners, faithful interpreters of tradition. But more than that, he also invites to meet those who, ori-
ginally from Sicily, expatriated for personal ambition in search of work, and who were successful in distant lands
because of their offering of Sicilian sweet specialities. Biagio Settepani – www.pasticceriabruno.com – is a
case in point, whose New York story Farina tells, illustrated by the photographer Giancarlo Bononi.
The book is published by Edizioni Lussografica, Caltanissetta, and is available in Italian and English, $ 40,00.
2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16 19
GELATO
BEYOND
TRADITIONAL GELATO
In the past issues of “Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition” we published many different gelato recipes,
introducing also the “savoury side” and the plated dessert version. Their future potential is clear as proven in
these pages and as you can find out in www.gelatointavola.it
Assembly
In a hollow dish place the gazpacho; in the centre place a small ball of
sorbet, some raspberries, redcurrants and chopped strawberries.
Above the sorbet place two breadsticks and a sugar decoration.
Gazpacho
strawberries g 500
raspberries g 300
redcurrant g 100
sugar g 150
glucose g 50
lemon juice g 20
Blend all the ingredients and pass through a chinoise to eliminate the
seeds of the red fruit.
Basil sorbet
water l 1
sugar g 600
glucose g 100
basil g 800
nitrogen a.r.
Bring the water with the sugar and glucose to 121°C. Having reached
that temperature, remove from the heat and add the basil; infuse for one
hour. Filter the syrup and thicken with the liquid nitrogen.
20 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
SMALL BRONTE PISTACHIO CAKE
WITH SAUCE AND SAFFRON PISTIL GELATO
Serves 6 Ricotta gelato
finely chopped pistachio g 100 sheep's milk ricotta g 200
00 flour g 100 fresh cream g 40
caster sugar g 80 fresh milk g 40
whole eggs no. 2 caster sugar g 90
pistachio paste g 20 spoon of acacia honey no. 1
salt a.r. saffron pistils g 0.05
bicarbonate g 3 salt a.r.
Place all ingredients in an electric mixer and mix for about 15 minutes. Place over the heat at 70°C for 15 minutes, pass through the thermo-mix
Butter and sugar some small moulds, pour in the mixture and bake at for another 5 minutes, and when cold move to the gelato machine. As-
160°C for about 15 minutes. semble the sweet by serving the cake in a soup plate, with sauce for the
base and the gelato above the hot cake.
Ricotta sauce
sheep's milk ricotta g 100 Pietro D'Agostino
fresh whole milk g 40 Ristorante La Capinera – Taormina, Catania
www.ristorantelacapinera.com
caster sugar g 20
acacia honey g 10
saffron pistils g 0.02
salt a.r.
Place the lot over the heat at 70°C for 5 minutes, blend with an immer-
sion blender and serve.
2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16 21
NEWS
GELATISSIMO
The special trade fair for the manufacture of hand-made ice-
cream, which takes place right at the start of the ice-cream
season, therefore providing you with the ideal platform for obtain-
ing all the necessary information. On ingredients and additives,
work and technical equipment, facilities and furnishings, or pro-
ducts and services for the production, sale and presentation of
ice-cream. Treat yourself to a visit to GELATISSIMO 2010. Make
sure you note the dates now and register online.
www.gelatissimo.de
DRINKS
FRAGRANT MIX
The aromas of the renowned almond liqueur and of the apple distillate of Normandy
express themselves in this cocktail, in which gelato and coffee come together
Malpaso
cream gelato g 30
expresso coffee cl 3
Disaronno cl 1
Calvados cl 4
Roberto Bianchi
Thanks go to Rinaldo Merlone,
director of the institute 'A. Prever' of Pinerolo,
Alberto Ferrero and Alexandra Raluca Gadalean
The recipe of Malpaso and many others are included in this book, “From aperitive to desserts”
(published in Italian by Chiriotti Editori).
Cocktails are intended not only as fancy drinks, but also as matches for appetizers and confectionery
products, “drinkable” gelatos and as desserts themselves. Serving suggestions, curiosities and historical
hints complete this cocktail recipe collection.
The authors, Roberto Bianchi and Edoardo Baviello, teach at the professional institute
“A. Prever” in Pinerolo, near Torino.
The book, 112 pages, is sold at € 30,00 and can be ordered on
www.pasticceriainternazionale.it/shop or by email info@pasticceriainternazionale.it
24 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
CUISINE
A NATURAL
PLAYER
A celebration of nature and its food: Joia is a vegetarian restaurant in the centre
of Milan, awarded a Michelin star in 1996, and run by chef-patron Pietro Leemann
Many years have passed since vegetarian great responsibility. Intense spirituality, intel- food means coming as close as possible to
cooking was thought of as tasteless, unva- lectual inquisitiveness and sharp sensitivity a condition of well-being. The menus are
ried, and even boring. Considered to be se- distinguish this chef, whom many call a phi- balanced and give us natural tastes. The
cond-class cooking, a niche phenomenon losopher. very basis of taste must be natural, never
that put animal lovers against meat eaters, it Let us begin with the concept of vege- manipulated or altered by chemical pro-
freed itself of its unjustly attributed role to tarian cooking. ducts. A vegetarian dish provides more har-
take on a new lease of life. Because vege- I am vegetarian out of ethical and moral con- monious pleasure because it is in tune with
tarian today not only means eating well but viction. It is a choice dictated by an aware- nature: we are not what we eat, but it is
also healthily and carefully. Especially if Pie- ness of more healthy eating habits that gives through what we eat that we are transfor-
tro Leeman is in the kitchen, star-winning me, with my cooking, pleasure and well- med.
chef of the Joia restaurant, Milan, and spo- being. What do you mean when you say "ela-
kesman for natural haute cuisine. In other Natural haute cuisine. What does this borate cooking is linked to material,
words cooking made using greens, cereals, mean? cultural and spiritual wealth"?
fruits, fats, and dairy products, but no meat It means being close to nature, both in terms The three riches can be presented together
or fish. Quality biological and biodynamic of ingredients used and methods adopted or alone, and in my dishes I try to represent
raw materials, colours, forms, and aromas for the preparation of dishes. These are sim- them all with the aim of giving well-being to
are used to their full potential. The key pla- ple processes that do not denaturalise the the body, mind and spirit. For a dish to be
yer is nature, taken as a point of reference ingredient, rather they accompany and em- good and natural it must possess these
and a starting point in the search for health phasise it. Natural also refers to ideas in three elements and offer a key of interpre-
and well being. His dishes, fully-fledged which there is a stylisation of nature that un- tation that meets the expectations of all. We
works of art, are an ode to life and enjoy- derlines its importance. can decide to eat for pleasure or we can ex-
ment. For this Swiss cook, food brings peo- So is nature a point of reference and a perience food as a journey of awareness in
ple together and breaks down cultural starting point for your work? the knowledge that through our choices we
barriers. It is a precious gift, and cooking a We are a part of nature and eating natural can determine our mental and physical well-
being. The act of eating can turn into pure
Il fascino
della Sacher
pleasure for those seeking material sati-
(the Sacher’s sfaction, and so a good dish will suffice; it
Glamour).
can become an intellectual experience for
those who use the restaurant as a breeding
ground of emotions, or else it can be raised
to a spiritual level and offer happiness.
Some of my dishes – Perseveranza, Virtù,
Serendipity – are also a vocal expression of
a spiritual idea, which calls for closer exami-
nation.
What do you mean by that?
"Perseveranza" is my way of seeing this
value. The colour that best defines it is
green (green pasta, spinach and its stock)
26 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
with red spots (tomato petals) that give it
power, and some white spots (the almond
sauce) for candour. The dish comprises four
ravioli, each one different, made without
eggs but with wheat gluten, which has the
same characteristics, and no dairy products.
This choice of ingredients makes the recipe
light and digestible, and is perfectly suited
to the concept of well-being in the broad work, that feeling of gratification that enri-
sense of the term. ches the mind and the spirit. The act of coo-
Let's talk about how your cooking is re- king is important, as is the act of eating: expressive manner, and I start by using in-
presentative of well-being. there is a big difference between food pre- gredients I am familiar with. Later on I take
My dishes are clean, simple and represent pared with love and care and food prepared a look at what tradition has to offer. Even the
a specific group of elements that makes for the sake of it. most innovative dishes are in some way as-
choices easy. A balanced diet contains all in- What are the underlying principles of sociated to our roots. The dialogue with the
gredients. But today there are some ingre- your cooking? client only takes place thanks to the use of
dients like eggs, fat, wheat, and dairy Non violence before anything else: the food symbols which are a part of the same culture
products that are eaten frequently and in I serve is never the fruit of a violent act; were and tradition. Otherwise there is a risk of
large quantities. The result is a high number it so it would determine its character. With speaking different languages and not un-
of allergies and intolerance to certain foods. my food I seek to celebrate life and enjoy- derstanding each other.
Starting from here I have various tricks up ment: death, in the kitchen, is associated to What makes a dish excellent?
my sleeve for preparing dishes that are just the animal kingdom. Secondly, I use pro- First of all the ingredients, followed by the
as tasty yet do not contain these elements. ducts that respect nature: the selection of balance obtained from the perfect gauging
For instance, instead of thickening mayon- ingredients, which must be of the highest of flavours. It must be linked to nature and
naise with normal flour I do it using corn or quality, is carefully made. Finally my method also to our roots. When I make a dish I ob-
rice flour. Furthermore, it is easier to stay in is to preserve the ingredient, without ever serve tradition and take note.
good health if food is assimilated slowly by denaturalising it. This means maintaining as What is the role of the dessert in your
our organism. Glucids that enter our orga- much of its energy as possible, which can cooking?
nism quickly raise the level of insulin in the be achieved with rapid, simple and imme- It has an important place in my heart: I be-
blood, causing negative effects. For this rea- diate cooking processes. But also the com- came a chef thanks to a Russian Charlotte.
son, instead of sugar I use honey, brown position of the menu has to respect a It was the year 1976 and the great cook and
sugar, fructose and so on. balance between raw (rich in vitamins) and gastronome Angelo Conti Rossi, a dear
It is a great responsibility for a chef, cooked (more easily absorbed by our orga- friend of the family, invited to dinner, turned
isn't it? nism. up with a Bavarian vanilla cream crowned
Absolutely. A good cook is one who knows How is a dish created? with Savoy biscuits, obviously made by him.
how to give a moment of pleasure with his I try to represent my ideas in an artistic and I was fifteen at the time and I will never for-
2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16 27
CUISINE
Perseveranza
green pasta g 200 Blend the ingredients together, knead and allow to stand for half an hour.
softened haricot beans g 50 Stretch out the pasta and cut to the desired shape.
carrots g 100
Grate the orange rind and cook the sugar with the petit boulé. Soak it
blood orange no. 1½ with the juice of all the oranges and reduce it to a syrup. Cut the peeled
coppered tomatoes n. 2 carrots into thin slices and sweat them for half an hour with a little oil and
early spinach g 50 covered saucepan. Blend and flavour with the reduced orange juice.
spinach purée g 50 Cook the beans, blend them and pass them through a sieve. Flavour them
with the orange rind and chopped rosemary. Roll the pastry out to very thin
vegetable stock g 100
and prepare 4 cm diameter ravioli, filling half with the carrots and the other
rice flour g 5 with the beans.
almond milk g 50 Boil the stock and thicken with the rice flour; add the spinach purée and
nutmeg g 1 blend. Boil the almond milk with the nutmeg and thicken with corn flour.
corn flour g 2.5 Peel the tomatoes, cut them into quarters, remove the seeds and put them
to dry in a 75°C oven for 2 hours.
sugar g 2.5
Cook the ravioli for one minute in salted boiling water, then place them in
extra-virgin olive oil g 20 the spinach stock with the leaves of the early spinach; season with extra-
rosemary g 5 virgin olive oil and cook for another minute.
salt a.r.
Assembly
Green pasta Place the ravioli in the dishes with little stock and the spinach leaves. Gar-
flour g 50 nish with tomato petals and add dashes of almond sauce.
wheat gluten g 15 Pietro Leemann
Joia Restaurant – Milano
dry spinach purée g 12
www.joia.it
28 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16 29
CUISINE
Monica Onnis
Photos by Francesca Brambilla and Serena Serrani
taken from the book "Joia
I nuovi confini della cucina vegetariana"
Giunti Editore www.giunti.it
30 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
We will attend:
SIGEP in Rimini
23 - 27 January 2010
Hall. B3 - Stand 120
PROSWEETS in Colonia
From 31/01 to 03/02/2010
Hall 10.1- Stand G 031
SELMI SRL
Via Statale,151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN)
Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814
www.selmi-group.it - info@selmi-group.it
RECIPES
RECIPES FROM
THE IFSE
Peel the eggplants and set part of their skin aside, dice one half, blanch
in salted water with a drizzle of white wine vinegar. Let cool down and
marinate in extra virgin olive oil, chopped mint and garlic. Bake the other
half of the eggplants at 180°C for about one hour, covered with a tin
foil.
In a pan, sauté the julienned shallot in extra virgin olive oil, add the
honey and caramelize for a few seconds, add the baked eggplant, co-
arsely cut, and sauté briefly. Season with salt and pepper, then blend
with the eggs, the Grana Padano and the milk.
Add the diced and squeezed eggplants and fill single-portion and but-
tered moulds, arranged in a bain-marie in a baking dish. Bake at 160
C° for about 20 minutes.
32 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16 33
RECIPES
Serves 4 about three minutes, strain well and let cool down. Pour into a gelato
machine and work till you reach the consistency you need.
For the gelato
milk g 150 For the pears
cream g 150 pears no 4
Pecorino di Fossa cheese g 70 chestnut honey to taste
ginger roots to taste
egg yolks no 2 Cut the pears into very thin slices and warm up in a pan with honey for
a few minutes. Let cool down.
salt to taste
In a sauce-pan, warm 70 g of milk and the cream up to 60°C, incor- IFSE - Italian Food Style Education
porate the remaining half of the milk and the Pecorino, previously sof- Piobesi Torinese, Torino
tened for about an hour in the same milk with the ginger. Add the
Photos by Marco Beltramo
beaten yolks and, if necessary, season with salt. Heat up to 75°C for
34 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16 35
NEWS
DULCIS IN NAPLES
The members of the Accademia Maestri Pa-
sticceri Italiani chose Naples for their last ye-
arly public meeting, www.ampiweb.it. They
met in November at The National Archaeolo-
gical Museum of Naples, where they showed From left, Gary Rulli
and offered to the public their wonderful swe- from San Francisco,
ets: everyone had to make hazelnut and che- his wife Jeannie, and
stnut cakes, and small pastry made with Biagio Settepani from
Annurca apples and Costiera Amalfitana le- New York. Both the
mons. Gino Fabbri, www.ginofabbri.com, Italo-American pastry
vice president of the association, won the chefs have been ad-
prize as the pastry chef of the year; Biagio mitted to the associa-
tion as honorary
Settepani from New York City and Gary Rulli
members.
from San Francisco are the honorary
members.
Their next technical meeting is planned from
7 to 10 March 2010, in Brescia at Cast Ali-
menti, www.castalimenti.it
36 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
VISUAL MERCHANDISING
RED AS LOVE
Red is the right colour to feast Valentine Day, appearing
as a recurring chromatic motive in these packagings
made by Chiara Rosino and Lorena Signori (lorenasi-
gnori@tiscali.it). The two artisans are specialized in the
art of glasswork and woodwork and their frameworks,
rings, mini trays, butterflies, pendants... can be easily
matched to confectionery products (such as chocolates,
bonbons, petits fours...) wrapped in white written papers,
resulting in original and elegant handmade lover gifts.
Photos Caffaro
38 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16 39
NEWS
40
2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
My world has changed.
My new multifunction kitchen helper: Multi Fresh®, Irinox.