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Shape Changing Materials: Exploring Applications of Smart Memory Alloy

with Fabric and 3D Visualizations.

Experiment Findings · April 2016

DOI: 10.13140/RG.2.1.2900.5209

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 Shape Changing Materials
Exploring Applications of Smart Memory Alloy with Fabric and 3D Visualizations.

Grace Jun Jaskirat Randhawa Efilena Baseta

Parsons School of Design. Parsons School of Design. Noumena
6 E. 16th St., 12th floor, New York, 6 E. 16th St., 12th floor, New York, Carrer de Tanger 33, Poblenou,
NY 10011 NY 10011 08018, Barcelona, Spain
email: jung235@newschool.edu email: randj063@newschool.edu email: efilena@noumena.io

ABSTRACT
The Shape Changing Materials workshop is a three-
day collaborative that explores the potential of shape
changing clothing through alternative ways to
integrate smart memory alloys (SMA) with fabric. The
application of SMA to fabric was visualized through
physical simulations using Rhino3D and Grasshopper.
Kangaroo, a “live physics engine for interactive
simulation, within Grasshopper,” [1] was used to
visualize the shape change. The contribution of this
work can apply to the fields of wearable technology,
material sciences, or textiles. Through a combination
of hands-on making and digital simulations,
participants were able to imagine shape changing
garments or accessories.
Keywords
Smart Memory Alloy, Apparel Design, Digital
Computation, Simulation, Rhino, Grasshopper,
Kangaroo, Wearable Technology, Design Education,
Design Processes.
INTRODUCTION
The field of design is changing along side
technological advancements. Disciplines such as
electrical engineering, human factors, or psychology
have weaved into design fields and are providing
experimental opportunities in wearable technology.
“Research and experimentation in the field of textiles
and fashion in the last fifteen years have resulted to
numerous projects and products conceived at the
intersection of fashion, science and technology.” [2] To
explore experimentation in these emerging studies,
the workshop was designed as an interdisciplinary
collaboration with fifteen participants and three
instructors. The workshop team came from different
backgrounds of study such as design strategy,
architecture, engineering, fine arts, and apparel
design. As part of our vision for the future of
transformable clothing, instructors and participants
trained the SMA and studied its behavior when
interacting with different kinds of natural fabric.

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April 22, 2016, New York, New York, USA.

Copyright 2016 Grace Jun

1
PREPARTION & GOALS
Preparation for the workshop included research and
tests on different types of Shape Memory Alloy, best
practices in connecting wires with fabric, and
simulation using Rhino.
The instructors searched for ‘ideal’ natural fabrics like
linen or cotton, and prepared a variety of thickness,
weights, and colors. They also researched for the
types of connectors. Connecting the SMA to fabric
involved a trial and error process using heat-retardant
thread and metal or silver crimps. The set of crimps
had a diameter that was larger or nearly the same as
the SMA wires. The learning goals for each day was
to the following:
1. On the first day, participants prepared
fabric swatches that embedded SMA using
silver crimps, conductive thread, fabric, and
alligator clippers. The shape of the swatch
transformed when electric power was
supplied to the SMA wire. The participants
learned to control the transformations
through iterative experimentation.
2. On the second day of the workshop,
participants were grouped into teams to
collectively experiment with hands-on
practice with fabric and SMA. They were
taught basics of Rhino and application of
Grasshopper and Kangaroo for physical
simulations. Participants were expected to
deliver at least one simulation of their
swatch behavior. The goal was to simulate
the experiments in software before
constructing the final swatches.
3. On the third and last day participants
applied learning experiences from the
previous two days to deliver final swatches
with controlled transformations.
Figure 2. 0.006 inch wire sown into muslin and cotton fabrics
workshop explored two types of nickel/titanium (NiTi)
alloy wires.
Wire Type 1
Participants used muscle wire or actuator wire
(FLEXINOL® actuator wire) which can be electrical
activated or thermally heated to change shape.
“These alloys contract by several percent of their
length when heated and can then be easily stretched
out again as they cool back to room temperature” [4].
The participants used "LT"- Low Temperature type
actuator wires and springs of 0.006 inch diameter.
Participants were able to sew the wire into fabric
through a sewing machine, The Brother CS 6000i. By
rapidly sewing on the wire, participants did several
tests with different stitch length and pattern
combination. The sewing machine has independent
controls for the length and width of stitch. Compared
to 0.006 inch diameter wires, the 0.008 inch wires
were too thick for the machine to handle and created
rigid knots that restricted any transformation when the
wire were electrically activated. Because the sewing
machine has different control panels for the length
and width of stitch, it was easy to create many
samples using the 0.006 inch actuator wire. The 0.008
inch wires were too thick for the machine to handle
and created many knots.

SHAPE CHANGE IN FABRICS WITH SMA

Many materials are sensitive to temperature and react
to cold or heat, such as Shape Memory Materials
(SMM). SMM react by changing into a prescribed
shape and “can be seen in a variety of materials such
as alloys, ceramics, polymers and gels” [3]. This

2

Figure 2 & 3. Wires used in thick gray cotton fabric to create a visor
However, the 0.008 inch worked best in the pre-made
Bendsoft™Demo. BendsoftTMDemo, is 2 inches in
length made of high temperature type or (HT) wire. In
Bendsoft, the actuator wire is secured to a plastic strip
along its length and is anchored using metal crimps at
each end. Participants found it was convenient to test
several prototypes with a standard product.The
electrical power needed per Bendsoft was 2- 2.8 volts.
For example, one participant created a visor cap
using three Bendsofts placed on the rim. Coin cell
batteries worked best for this wearable concept.
Because the wire was secured within a plastic frame
and already came with anchored crimped wires on
each end, participants discovered it was easy to
quickly use and apply to other forms. For example,
one participant created a visor cap using three
Bendsofts placed on the rim. Coin cell batteries
worked best for this wearable concept.
Figure 4. Stretched spring with acrylic tiles sample.
Next, workshop applicants worked with the
FLEXINOL® springs. The 0.015 inch diameter springs
were successfully used in two group projects. The first
project, “Animated Wearable” stretched the springs
into a straight wire and attached conductive thread at
the end with crimps. The concept demonstrated a
transformation in material reflection that contracted in
2D plane. The sample piece used a 0.38 mm spring
3
on a sandwiched layer of synthetic black fabric with
blue-gray silk. The spring was tied to two acrylic
squares that provided weight and aesthetics. The
heating time was 1-2 seconds and the cooling time
was 8.8 seconds. 
The next project aimed to make a vest. The piece
used the thickest type of spring actuators,
0.020” (0.51mm), to make a contraction behavior to
one of the halves of the vest. With a combination of
traditional pattern making and apparel construction
techniques, the coils were embedded on the inside of
the vest, interlinked using conductive thread. The
placement of the springs created pleats on the
surface of the vest, when the power was applied to
them. The experiment aimed to create self-automated
garments which could open and close on it’s own. The
potential application for such garments was inspired
from MIT Open Style Lab’s program working with
people with physical disabilities [5]. “One of the most
visible areas of change caused by integration of
technology is in garment silhouette and contour:
bulky, solid shapes integrated into a flexible textile
garment create noticeable bulges and stiff areas in a
garment”[6]. The half bodice exemplified the potential
of shape change for wearables. 
Figure 5. Half body upper garment using springs.
Wire Type 2
The second type of NiTi alloy wire, also known as
Memory Wire initially 'remembers' a shape when
treated with heat. “It simply has to be held in the
desired shape and then heated to 500°C in a small
oven for a few minutes”[7]. When Memory wire is
electrically powered, it retracts back to its original
state. One group of participants conducted an
experiment in which one end of the swatch contracted
and simultaneously the opposite end expanded
across a 2D resting plane. The 0.5mm Memory Wire
Wire Type Reacting Diameter (size) Resistance Pull Cooling Approx. Cooling
tempeature ohms/inch Force* Deformation Current for Time
(ohms/ pounds Force* 1 Second 158°F, 70°C
meter) (grams) pounds Contraction “LT” Wire
(grams) (mA) or
194°F, 90°C
“HT” Wire

Flexinol® Actuator 70°C 0.006” 1.4 (55) 0.71 0.28 (128) 410 2.0
Wire (large roll) (321)
(Low temp)

0.008” 0.74 (29) 1.26 0.50 (228) 660 3.2

(570)

Flexinol® Actuator 90°C 0.020” (0.51 mm) 12.7 (500) 0.08 (36) 0.032 (14) 85 0.4 secs
Springs (20 coils)
(Low temp)

0.015” (0.381mm)* 22.6 (890) 0.04 (20) 0.016 (8) 55 0.24

0.008” (0.203mm) 0.74 (29) 1.26 0.50 (228) 660 3.2

(570)

Bendsoft™ Demo 90°C 0.008” 0.74 (29) 1.26 0.50 (228) 660 2.7
(570)
(High Temp)

* Based on Dyanolly Spec Sheet: http://www.dynalloy.com/pdfs/TCF1140.pdf

was treated to follow the triangular contours of the
gray viscose fabric (See Figure 5). The team
successfully created a simulation of its change in
Rhino.
One group conducted an experiment that used both
ends of a fabric swatch to move in opposite directions.
The 0.5mm Memory Wire created a wave-like
behavior in the gray viscose fabric. The team
successfully created a simulation of it’s change in
Rhino. They witnessed a 20% contraction effect on
the total length of their 60cm wire.
Another team created a simulation and prototype of
an interactive wearable shoe, “The R2DShoe.” The
team’s concept envisioned a flap that automates
expansion of the opening of the shoe to help the
wearer easily wear it. The team attached the Memory
Wire onto a 1mm thick lambskin fabric and conducted
a contraction analysis using the pattern of the shoe
flap.

Figure 5 & 6. Physical prototype using Memory Wire on Hanji

Korean fabric. Simulation of wire behavior using Kangaroo. Figure 7. Rhino simulation of R2DShoe.

4
ENVISIONING SHAPE CHANGING WEARABLES
The potential to imbue clothing with emerging
technologies and functionality, was examined through
hands-on experience of embedding SMA into fabrics,
skillfully envisioned through digital simulations. The
second half of the workshop explored those
visualizations and simulations to predict the behavior
of the experiments with high fidelity. The second half
of the workshop explore visualization and simulation
techniques for these behavior changes.
Softwares Used
In order to optimize and inform the shape shifting
prototypes, we simulated beforehand their movement
digitally. For the simulations, Rhinoceros3D and its
plug-in Grasshopper have been used. Because
Rhinoceros3D is an accurate 3D modeler that
supports mesh design.The different types of textiles
have been represented by mesh geometries with less
or more polygons according to their flexibility.
Grasshopper, is a visual programming software where
the creation of computational algorithms allow real
time interactivity between the user and the design.
Finally, the add-on Kangaroo enabled physics
simulations.
Kangaroo Physics
Kangaroo is a real time, interactive engine, which
allows the manipulation of the time parameter and the
introduction of other possible external factors, such as
wind, or human interference [1]. Using Kangaroo, the
forces applied by the smart alloys onto the textiles
were used as input data for the digital deformations.
Another input parameter was the flexibility and the
elasticity of the fabric, represented by Kangaroo
Springs with different stiffness. Internal forces cause
shape-shifting in these kinetic material systems.
According to the written algorithm, we could
automatically extract data as an numeric output such
as the following:
• Shape memory alloy contraction
• Textile contraction
• Time needed
• Energy consumed
The participants discovered realistic simulations and
numeric data could be achieved by using the
aforementioned software. Simulating the material
system behavior before developing the prototypes
5
gave them the opportunity to optimize their design in
terms of desired deformations and efficiency in a short
amount of time. However, there was no direct
connection between the input parameters of the
physical prototypes (Voltage, Current) or for the digital
simulation (Unary forces, Springs).
Simulation Rendering and Retouch
The digitalization of material behaviors of a kinetic
system (wearable, fabric, smart material etc.) can add
various values to the design, both during the design
process and towards the final product. As mentioned
before, digital simulations support designers to
optimize their compositions according to different
parameters. Extracting numeric data, designers can
minimize the amount of material used, the material
waste, energy consumed and simultaneously
maximize the desired shape-shifting. A digital
simulation of a kinetic product can inform the users
about its behavior and also can be used as a visual
manual and demonstration.
CONCLUSION
The workshop demonstrated the potential for
interdisciplinary collaboration between schools and
fab labs using a combination of hands-on practice and
visualization. The use of SMA as ‘extrinsic enablers’
were explored with training the wires to take on a
shape or form within a piece of fabric. The workshop
demonstrates the combination of hands-on practice
and methods of interactive models. The instructors
and participants were able to create examples that
develop an understanding of structural behavior. The
experimentation of these enablers has given the
instructors and workshop participants stronger ways
to imagine the relationship between technology and
clothing.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This workshop was supported by Parsons MFA
Design & Technology, Parsons Student Senate,
Parsons SAFC, Dynalloy, Inc. (Dynalloy’s SMArt®
Steps Program), and Noumena. Special thanks to
Alexi Tosti and Casey Barber. The fifteen participants
included the following students and young
professionals:
Attie Chan, Autumn Kietponglert, Boris Yu, Fulya
Turkmenoglu, Harmony Pilobello, Ivor Ip, Jordan
Frand.,Mia Baldonado, Pablo Criado-Pérez, Ran
Tian , Renata Gaui, Savani Mirashi, Suma Balaram,
Savani Mirashi, Terricka Johnson, and Xiang Liu.
REFERENCES
1. Piker, Daniel. "Kangaroo." Grasshopper:
ALGORITHMIC MODELING FOR RHINO. 2016.
Accessed April 28, 2016. http://
www.grasshopper3d.com/group/kangaroo.
2. Pantouvaki, Sofa. "Technology-inspired
Experimental New Transparencies."
Academia.edu. Accessed April 28, 2016. http://
www.academia.edu/4428570/Technology-
inspired_Experimental_New_Transparencies.
3. Pantouvaki, Sofa. "Technology-inspired
Experimental New Transparencies."
Academia.edu. Accessed April 28, 2016. http://
www.academia.edu/4428570/Technology-
inspired_Experimental_New_Transparencies.
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4. "Introduction To FLEXINOL® Actuator Wire."
FLEXINOL® Actuator Wires. 2016. Accessed April
28, 2016. http://www.dynalloy.com/flexinol.php.
5. Cleveland, Lauriel. "Open Style Lab: Fashion for
All Abilities." CNN. August 3, 2015. Accessed April
21, 2016. http://www.cnn.com/2015/08/03/fashion/
fashion-made-accessible-mit/index.html. See also:
openstylelab.org
6. Dunne, Lucy E. "The Design of Wearable
Technology: Addressing the Human-device
Interface through Functional Apparel Design."
Ecommons.cornell.edu. August 2004. Accessed
April 28, 2016. http://ecommons.cornell.edu/
bitstream/handle/1813/150/Lucy E Dunne-Masters
Thesis.pdf?sequence=2.
7. Memory Wire." Mindsets Online. 2016. Accessed
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productID=48a9b12d-50f4-4d80-
bac5-544e4d6c9b72Hunt, Jamer. A Manifesto for
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