B. Böhlendorf-Arslan – A. Ricci (eds.

), Byzantine Small Finds in Archaeological Contexts, BYZAS 15 (2012) 117-126

Middle and Late Byzantine Jewellery from

Thessaloniki and its Region
Anastassios C. Antonaras

Abstract
Excavations conducted within Thessaloniki’s city walls and in the nearby region
yielded numerous examples of metal, glass, stone and bone jewellery, some of
which unpublished. Among the notable finds was bronze and glass jewellery dat-
ed to the middle Byzantine period (10th–12th century) possibly locally produced
in one of the two middle Byzantine glass furnaces excavated in the commercial
center of the city. Also, a considerable quantity of jewellery was found in graves
dating to the Palaeologan period (13th–15th century). They present an interest-
ing typology of objects, probably mainly locally produced, but also imported from
other centers.
Keywords: Byzantine, Thessaloniki, Jewellery, Precious Metal, Glass, Copper, Burials

Özet
Thessaloniki ve çevresindeki bölgede yürütülen kazılarda, bir kısmı hala yayımlan-
mamış olan, önemli sayıda metal, cam, taş ve kemik takıları ortaya çıkartılmıştır.
Diğer buluntuların aksine Orta Bizans Dönemi’ne tarihlenen (M.S. 10.–12. yy.),
büyük sayıda bronz ve tabiki cam takılar açığa çıkartılmıştır. Bunlar olasılıkla şehrin
ticaret merkezinde bulunmuş olan ve Orta Bizans Dönemi’ne tarihlenen iki cam
fırınından birinde yerel olarak üretilmiştir. Ayrıca Paleologos Döneme tarihlenen
(M.S. 13.–15. yy.) mezarlarda muhtemelen çoğunluğu yerel üretim olmak üzere,
diğer merkezlerden de ithal edilmiş ilgi çekici tiplerde önemli sayıda takılar bulun-
muştur.
Anahtar Sözcükler: Bizans, Selanik, Takı, Değerli Maden, Cam, Bakır, Gömüler

Middle Byzantine Period (9th– early 13th century)

The human need for embellishment reappears intensely after the economic crisis
of the «Dark Age» (7 th–9 th century). Especially during the middle Byzantine period
jewellery represent almost exclusively the objects that were left on deceased individuals
accompanying both men and women in their eternal sleep.
118 Anastassios C. Antonaras

Archaeological finds from the region around Thessaloniki will be presented and classi-
fied according to the part of the body on which they were worn, starting from the head
downwards.

Diadems
Diadems are extremely rare finds. They consist of series of identical elements, discs with
filigree and glass gems, or elongated pieces, which were strung together on the forehead
and worn1.

Earrings
In addition to simple copper alloy wires, sometimes twisted, a quite common type of ear-
ring consists of plain, usually bronze or occasionally silver wire decorated on its lower part
with beads, usually three, mainly metal or less often glass2 (fig. 1). A few golden examples,
decorated with granulation, or with pearls, are also found. They document very rare luxu-
rious pieces, which were even more seldom left on the deceased’s ears3 (fig. 2).

Fig. 1 Copper alloy earrings, 10th–12th c. Fig. 2 Golden earrings, 9th–10th c.

Pendants
Reliquary crosses, quite common during this period, are excluded from this work, as they
do not represent jewellery, although they are decorated, occasionally quite elaborately4.
The same stands for stone medallions with the double resurrection cross carved on them5.
However, some crosses should be considered more as jewellery and less as amulets. The
miniature rhomboid or, the Greek-type examples curved from several types of stone fit
within this group6. The same decorative nature also characterizes several types of elabo-
rately decorated metal crosses, like the golden one from a 9th–10th century hoard (fig. 3),

1 Kypraiou 1997, 209 (misinterpreted as necklace).

2 Kypraiou 1997, 173 (misdated to the early Christian period); Skouteri-Didaskalou 2007, 126 f.
3 Kypraiou 1997, 224.
4 Papanikola-Bakirtzi 2002, 504 f.; Kanonidis 2002, 71. 76; Skouteri-Didaskalou 2007, 87.
5 Papanikola-Bakirtzi 2002, 523. 566; Kanonidis 2002, 70. 75. It seems that stone amulets and crosses, generally
known from middle Byzantine cemeteries, due to their religious and holy character, or due to a local stylistic
conservatism, were still in use in Thessaloniki during the early Palaeologan period.
6 Papanikola-Bakirtzi 2002, 501. 505. 566; Kanonidis 2002, 66 f. 74 f.
 Middle and Late Byzantine Jewellery from Thessaloniki and its Region 119

or simpler, bronze Greek crosses from middle

Byzantine cemeteries7. Almost all examples
found in our region are Greek crosses and
they do not occur often, as one would expect
them to appear in Christian graves of this pe-
riod, pendants in other forms are practically
nonexistent with a single example in the form
of a glass tooth mounted in a gold frame 8
(fig. 3).

Beads
In our region, no large-sized, richly decorated
beads are found. The only known examples
are small, barrel-like or cylindrical, with a
single, usually dark blue color. Occasionally
Fig. 3 Golden cross, button and amulet,
9th–10th c. simple glass beads were used singly to adorn
metal earrings9.

Bracelets
Our finds are mostly made of copper alloy and almost all of them have open ends. Very
characteristic is the group of bracelets made of two double-folded wires which are twisted
together, forming a wide loop at each end and in which emerge the ends of the other
wire10 (fig. 4).

The second group is represented by band-like bracelets, also with open ends, occasionally
considerably wider than the body, bearing simple engraved or pressed geometric decora-
tion, or images of birds and animals11.

During the middle Byzantine period, use of glass appears to be concentrated in the pro-
duction of jewels and decorative elements. Glass bangles represent the most characteristic
product. Although they are known in the region from the 3rd century, they disappear
very soon after that and they reappear after the 9th century. At that point, they have the
shape of a ring, normally made by joining the two ends of a rod (circular, semi-circular or,
planoconvex in section), or a flat band (square or rectangular in section, sometimes with
rounded ends). The outer surface is occasionally decorated by the winding or applying of
a glass rod or thread of another color, or by silver staining or gilding12 (fig. 5).

7 Papanikola-Bakirtzi 2002, 407; Kypraiou 1997, 221; Kanonidis 2002, 68 f. 75.

8 Kypraiou 1997, 226.
9 Unpublished material of the exhibition at the Museum of Byzantine Culture, Thessaloniki.
10 Kypraiou 1997, 172 (misdated to the early Christian period). 210. 215.
11 Kypraiou 1997, 171. 174. 211-212. 214. 216-218; Skouteri-Didaskalou 2007, 125. 127.
12 Antonaras 2003, 332; Antonaras 2006, passim. For color representations see: Kypraiou 1997, 171-174. 215. 219-
220 and Skouteri-Didaskalou 2007, 125.
120 Anastassios C. Antonaras

Fig. 4
Copper alloy, wire bracelet,
10th–12th c.

Fig. 5 Glass bracelets, 10th–12th c.

Fig. 6 Gold armbands, 9th–10th c.

 Middle and Late Byzantine Jewellery from Thessaloniki and its Region 121

Byzantine jewelers used glass in many ways to embellish metal objects. One of the most
delicate techniques was inlaid enamel, known at the time as χυμευτική. In a 9th–10th cen-
tury golden jewellery hoard found at the center of Thessaloniki, two exceptional examples
of this technique were found, a pair of golden arm bands or bracelets which are among
the best-preserved examples of Byzantine enameled jewellery. They are decorated with
inlaid cloisonné enamel of green, dark blue, cobalt blue, turquoise and white. Each is
covered with twenty rectangular fields in two rows, in which alternately appear a rosette, a
bird and a palmette13 (fig. 6).

Rings
A very common type of jewellery, probably the most widespread are rings. Almost all ex-
amples are made of copper alloy and most are flat band-like ones, although more massive
cast examples do occur also. They are decorated with simple punched or engraved geo-
metrical motifs or patterns, like dots and dotted circles, stars, birds, mythological animals
etc. On some of them votive inscriptions, or parts of them, can be read, such as ΚΕ ΒΟ-
ΗΘΗ followed by the bearer’s name, while on the
flat bezels of others, angels and military saints can
be seen14 (fig. 7).

Some rings are decorated with glass gems. The

Fig. 7 Copper alloy ring, 10th–12th c.
majority of the gems are plain, lentoid or plano-
convex, occasionally decorated with intaglio rep-
resentations, like mounted figures, animals or
zodiac signs15. Also, there are known examples
of rectangular pieces of glass, probably originally
gold tesserae, which were used as gems in middle
Byzantine rings16.

Buttons
Although buttons are known from earlier centuries, it appears that they were not very
widespread, at least not the metal ones. One middle Byzantine, probably 10th century
golden example is spherical and bears a pressed ribbed decoration (fig. 4)17. Simple dis-
coid buttons are also occasionally found, bearing plain engraved geometric decoration18.

13 Kypraiou 1997, 225; Tsakalos 2007, 51.

14 Kypraiou 1997, 207. 213 f. 221; Papanikola-Bakirtzi 2002, 448 f.
15 Papanikola-Bakirtzi 2002, 444 f.
16 Kypraiou 1997, 220; Antonaras 2003, 332; Papanikola-Bakirtzi 2002, 445.
17 Kypraiou 1997, 226.
18 Papanikola-Bakirtzi 2002, 397.
122 Anastassios C. Antonaras

Late Byzantine period (mid–13th to mid–15th century)

Earrings
The majority of our finds consists of small-sized examples. Fairly common are simple rings,
or simplified versions of crescent-shaped employing motifs earrings, occasionally gilded,
sometimes with cast pseudo-granulation and additionally decorated with glass gems, or
tiny pearls19.

Cloisonné enamel with undulating fields, in motifs and aesthetics also imitated in book il-
luminations and in precious micro-mosaic icons, was also used for the decoration of metal
jewellery. Good examples are crescent-shaped earrings, found in Thessaloniki and in rural
sites of Chalkidiki, dated to the late 13th–14th century. In fact, these are not real earrings,
but rather temple pendants, which were suspended with textile stripes from the hat or
kerchief. The upper part of the jewellery is open and it is supposed that a small piece of
cloth was placed in it and soaked with fragrance20 (fig. 8).

Other forms known from the middle Byzantine period include, earrings with a compo­
site, filigree bead, encountered occasionally among Palaeologan finds from Thessaloniki21
(fig. 9). It also seems that crescent-shaped filigree earrings were made during the late
Palaeologan period22. Noteworthy is that many of the bronze examples retain a layer of
gilding, witnessing their original golden appearance23.

Fig. 8 Enameled copper alloy temple Fig. 9 Golden earring, 13th c.

pendant, 13th–15th c.

19 Antonaras 2003, 333. Also unpublished material at the exhibition of the Museum of Byzantine Culture,
Thessaloniki.
20 Moutsopoulos 2000, fig. 170; Antonaras 2003, 333; Skouteri-Didaskalou 2007, 127; Tsakalos 2007, 52.
21 Papanikola-Bakirtzi 2002, 437. See also footnote 5.
22 Moutsopoulos 2000, fig. 238.
23 Personal observation on unpublished material, partly exhibited at the Museum of Byzantine Culture,
Thessaloniki.
 Middle and Late Byzantine Jewellery from Thessaloniki and its Region 123

Pendants
Several small-sized crosses, almost all
of them in a Greek form, are found
in the cemeteries of the Palaeologan
period. All our examples are made of
copper alloy and they bear cast deco-
ration which imitates the inlaid deco-
ration of their golden prototypes 24
(fig. 10).

Bracelets
Bracelets are not common among Pa-
laeologan finds. Only a more subtle
Fig. 10 Copper alloy crosses, 13th–15th c.
version of the wired middle Byzantine
examples occurred. Glass bracelets are also less in number and it appears that already
within the first half of the 13th century they had fallen out of fashion. By the end of the
century they no longer appear25.

Rings
Rings continue to represent a very
common type of jewellery; probably
the most widespread one, during the
Palaeologan period.

Generally the rings of the late Byzan-

tine period are bigger and more mas-
sive than the middle Byzantine exam-
ples. The majority of our finds consists
of simple examples, with engraved,
geometric and floral decoration on
their raised bezel26. Another group
of massive, cast examples also exists.
They often have a plain, undecorated
bezel, or bear intaglio decoration27.
A third group of rings, possibly of a
Fig. 11 Copper alloy and Bone Archers’ Rings,
13th–15th c.
little later date, consists of small rings
embellished with simply usually plano-
convex ring gems single-colored28.

24 Kanonidis 2002, 69. 75. Decoration see: Antonaras 2006, 431.

25 Papanikola-Bakirtzi 2002, 420.
26 Papanikola-Bakirtzi 2002, 453.
27 Skouteri-Didaskalou 2007, 107. 125.
28 Skouteri-Didaskalou 2007, 124 f.
124 Anastassios C. Antonaras

A special group of rings appears after the late 13th–14th centuries, the so-called Archers’
rings29. They have a flat, triangular bezel, originally designed to protect the thumb of
archers, when they released the string of the bow. They are made both of bone and bronze.
The bronze one bears engraved floral decoration, while these from bone are either plain
or decorated with bronze inlays (fig. 11).
In addition to this group are the ascribed metal rings with a high heart-shaped bezel,
which makes their use as an archers’ ring completely impossible, and clearly they should
be separated and treated as ordinary jewellery30.

Buckles
Although one would suppose that buckles would appear very often in excavations, they
are almost never found, at least in our region. The sole two exceptions are both made of
copper alloy, the first is a simple semi-ovoid, while the second, which was co­vered with a
layer of silver, has a more elaborate shape and it appears that belonged to a wealthy lady
of Thessaloniki31. Larger, flat, bipartite buckles published as late Byzantine finds32 should
rather be dated to the post-Byzantine period.

Buttons
Although buttons are not strictly speaking jewellery, they are included in the present
work. It is obvious that they were not mere clothing implements and a great effort was
put toward making fancy articles that would embellish the person using them. It appears
that during the late Byzantine period brooches, which are almost non-existent during the
middle Byzantine period, are completely replaced by buttons.
The largest group represent copper alloy, spherical or ellipsoidal forms, sometimes gilded,
consisting of two hemispherical pieces joined together, one of which bears an inherent
or applied suspension ring33. Also, but only occasionally, heavy, cast, lead buttons bear-
ing plastic decoration in the form of ribs or granules34 (fig. 12) were found. Big filigree
buttons appear very seldom35. Fi-
nally, according to archaeologi-
cal finds, it seems that flat and
discoid bone buttons were also
occasionally used.

Fig. 12
Copper alloy and lead buttons,
13th–15th c.

29 Antonaras 2004, 50-62 (with further bibliography on analogous Balkan finds).

30 Antonaras 2004, 50-62, esp. 57. 61-62.
31 Unpublished material in the exhibition at the Museum of Byzantine Culture, Thessaloniki.
32 Papanikola-Bakirtzi 2002, 396.
33 Papanikola-Bakirtzi 2002, 397.
34 Skouteri-Didaskalou 2007, 90. 93.
35 Skouteri-Didaskalou 2007, 93.
 Middle and Late Byzantine Jewellery from Thessaloniki and its Region 125

Beads
Beads are not at all a common find in our excavations and the only really important
quantity of glass beads comes from a single find in a 15th–16th century Thessaloniki grave –
although these beads may represent the intrusion of much later objects. Seve­ral hundred
colourless and blue hexagonal beads, along with several dozens of spherical colourless
beads with a metal coating in their interior, which transforms them into tiny mirrors, were
decorating the dress of an obviously well-to-do lady of Thessaloniki36.

Conclusions
In closing this presentation of Macedonian jewellery a few remarks should be made. These
are far from being real conclusions with general value, but they sum up the material pre-
sented above. Based on finds, which might reflect primarily burial habits and not the
actual way of living of the society under examination, it can be noted, that there are no
finds at all which could be dated to the dark 7th–8th centuries. All finds are from post-9th
century. Gold and silver jewels practically vanish and jewellery now is almost exclusively
made of copper alloys, occasionally covered with gilding. Glass is very widely used both for
the production of glass articles (bracelets, beads and gems) as well as for the embellish-
ment of metal jewellery in the form of enameling. Beads and especially gems were used
as substitutes for articles originally made of semiprecious stones, which are not present in
our finds.

Fine elaborate types of jewellery, widely known during the Late Antique period, do not
occur. Bigger and more massive forms prevail, usually cast or more seldom forged, deco-
rated with cast, engraved or scratched motifs. These motifs imitate or render in an in-
expensive way the enameled, niello, or three-dimensional decoration of the golden and
silver jewellery made of colorful stones.

During the late Byzantine period jewellery made of cheap metals, copper alloys and silver
of low purity continues to prevail, while golden articles are almost non-existent. Glass con-
tinues to be used as a substitute for semiprecious stones which are quite rare, while bone
and stones are used for the production of certain artifacts such as crosses, pendants or
special types of rings.

Credits: Hellenic Ministry of Culture and Tourism, Museum of Byzantine Culture.

36 Antonaras 2003, 333.

126 Anastassios C. Antonaras

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Greece, in: Annales du16e Congrès de l’Association Internationale pour l’Histoire
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Culture 11, 2003, 50-62.
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