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Kyparissi
Kyparissi
Kyparissi is the kind of holiday place that if you know about it, you
only tell your closest friends because you are afraid of spoiling it.
But really it would be a hard place to spoil just because of the
difficulties in getting here. You could tell the whole world about your
holiday in the land of the Hunzas but only about one person in 25
million is going to visit there because not everyone wants to cross
icy mountain peaks riding on a yak to visit some place you told
them was nice. Kyparissi is sort of like that. Even though it has been
written up in many Greek magazines, and featured in the book The
Most Beautiful Villages of Greece, and is the favorite destination of
George H Bush, Prince Charles and may have been the last place
Princess Diana visited before her ill-fated trip to Paris, getting to
Kyparissi is a formidable task to anyone who does not have access
to a high-powered yacht with a helicopter.
In the old days there was a weekly ferry that started in Pireaus and
followed the east coast of the Peloponessos, and stopped in
Kyparissi on its way to Monemvasia, Kythira and Crete, before
returning the way it had come. We took this ferry from Githion to
Kyparissi in 1963 and a later boat in the eighties and early nineties.
Later the Flying Dolphins took this route and stopped here daily in
the summer until the new dock collapsed within a few months of
being built and the old dock was too unsheltered and there were too
few passengers to make the trip lucrative. They cut service back to
just weekends and eventually stopped it altogether. The ferry and
flying dolphin skippers never liked stopping in Kyparissi anyway. The
old boats used to anchor in the bay and small caique would ferry the
people to the dock. The later ferries began docking at Agios
Nicholaos and at the main dock when the sea was not too rough.
But there were days when we would wait for the flying dolphin only
to see it pass us by because it was too much of a hassle to try
todock and
whoever wanted to
get off in Kyparissi
could take a taxi
from Geraka or
Monemvasia. For
those who wanted
to go to Athens…
too bad. For those
who arrived at
Agios Nicholaos by
Flying Dolphin for
the first time it was
a confusing
experience. For
awhile Yiannis
Zefiris would ferry
people to the town dock in his little boat but once he stopped the
only way in was to catch a ride with someone or walk for about an
hour. When my father came back to the village in the eighties with
his new bride he assumed that if they began walking that someone
would pick them up. Wrong. He had to walk all the way into the
village with his suitcases.
“The villagers are not friendly” he said to me.
“They are very friendly”, I explained to him since I spent many of
my summers here. “If you had asked someone for aride and they
refused then I would say you would be justified in believing the
village was unfriendly. But just because they did not notice a seven
foot man and his five foot tall bride walking into town does not
mean they are not friendly, just unobservant.
He never forgave the village for his long walk and never returned.
In the sixties
they had built
a road to
connect
Kyparissi with
Leonideon
which you can
still take from
the north
sideof the
village. It hugs the coast for a few miles and then turns inland to the
nearly abandoned village of Kapsala, home to the Mavromichalis
clan from the Mani, who fought to liberate Greece from the Turks
and then according to local legend were framed by the British for
the murder of Greece’s first Head of State. The road continues past
several beautiful beaches and ends abruptly at the border of
Arkadia. The Arkadians decided they did not want to lose tourist
business to Laconia so they just didn’t build their portion of the
road. It has been fifty years and the people of Kyparissi still blame
the Arkadians for the lack of tourism which they see as a curse, but
anyone else would see as a blessing. There is a road though. One of
the most frightening in Greece, it hugs the mountainside for several
miles, just wide enough for two cars to pass in most places. There is
even a spot that so terrified even a seasoned professional Athens
taxi driver that he had to be led down the mountainside by keeping
his eyes on my rear bumper and not looking at either side. This road
and the lack of a boat have kept Kyparissi as unspoiled as a Greek
coastal village can be.
The road goes downhill in relatively extreme fashion and passes the
Schiller designed elementary school, crosses a bridge over a dry
river bed and goes past the graveyard and the beautiful old church
before reaching the town of Parilea (photo), which means beach.
There are several small hotels here, the best among them being
Kyfanta Apartments which are large studios with kitchens and a
view of the sea, owned by Yannis and Esther. Yiannis is from
Kyparissi while Esther comes from Spain and is the multi-linguist of
the family, speaking several including Spanish, English and Greek.
Parilea also has a couple restaurants, both quite good. One is known
as Rovatsos and is in a modern looking apartment style building
overlooking the sea and features fresh fish, local meat, cheese and
vegetables and as do all the restaurants, excellent local wine. They
also have the world’s largest and tastiest olives. Almost next door is
Trocadero, owned by Panagiotis Volis, a resident of Montreal who
returned to his ancestral village to serve some of the best food you
will find in Laconia including what may be the best omelets in
Greece. For those who have not been impressed with the breakfast
buffets served at most hotels in Athens and the popular islands,
finding a restaurant where a guy will make an omelet with anything
you ask him to put in, is not only refreshing, but may save you
money because you will probably be able to skip lunch. A third
restaurant is known as Katina’s and is currently closed because of a
lawsuit with a neighbor who wanted to use her seating area as a
driveway to his garage. Maybe this will be resolved by the time you
come and if so she is an excellent cook as well.
T
here are several cafe-bars including To Kafe tis Maritsela, a
beautifully designed stone basement place owned by Maria Fasili,
which is right next to Tis Electra’s gift shop which is full of unique
items not found in your everyday gift shops in Greece. Nearby is the
pandapoleon which means a store that sells everything, owned by
Girogos Zeferis who makes a delicious organic wine and is also one
of the few fishermen that sells his daily catch to the restaurants. On
the far side of Parilea is an actual supermarket, not on the scale of
one you might find at home but by Kyparissi standards certainly
super enough. There is a small beach to the right of the dock and a
larger one to the left of town that stretches perhaps a quarter of a
mile and separates Parilea from the third of the three villages, called
Metropolis (photo). There are two restaurants here, both good, one
with a view called Lulas and one without a view called Tiris, the
more popular of the two, open year round and also has its own
bakery and zacharoplasteon (pastry shop). Fresh fish, home grown
vegetables and local meats, cheese and wine have made Tiris a
favorite not just with the locals and the Athenians who visit but also
for the yacht and sailboat people who stop here overnight in the
summer months
Beyond Metropolis the road winds through olive groves before
emerging at the beach and small harbor of AgiosNicholaos. When
the sea is rough
this is the best
place to swim and
when the sea is
not rough it is the
best place to get
away from the
few people who
are on the
beaches in town.
Tiris owns another
restaurant-cafe on
the hill
overlooking the
port that has
excellent food and
even a live
rembetika-laika band in the summer. There are only a couple shops
for buying crafts and anything resembling tourist paraphenalia so if
you are the type of traveler that thinks that shopping is an
important part of any holiday then you may be disappointed.
However serious art collectors are in luck because Kyparissi is home
to the British artist James Foot, one of the finest watercolor painters
in Greece and if you ask for him you should be able to buy some
original pieces which should gain in value if not bring a little bit of
Kyparissi home to decorate your living room. For those who have
family members addicted to shopping you can drive to Monemvasia
in about two hours and not only will the number of tourist shops be
satisfying but it is quite an amazing place to see, a medieval
fortified village on a giant rock in the sea. Other possible day trips
include the island of Elafonissos, near the city of Neapolis, Githeon
which is the port of Sparta, the Diros Caves in the Mani, the
Byzantine city of Mystras, any of which should take about two hours.
Closer and just as interesting is the town of Geraki which also has a
Byzantine city.
But most people who come to Kyparissi find that using it as a base
for daytrips to the rest of the Peloponessos requires a little more
driving than they like to do on holiday and instead explore the area
on foot, swim, eat long lunches while drinking local wine and then
taking a nice siesta in the afternoon. If you are a reader you don’t
have to worry about running out of material because Yiannis and
Esther have collected a pretty impressive English language library of
paperbacks. There are numerous trails that lead to small churches,
hidden springs, remote beaches, caves, forests and of course the
abandoned village of Kapsala, now used by a few of the remaining
Mavromichalis clan for summer homes or to be close to their farms
and sheep. The best time for me is dinner when you can’t help but
strike up a conversation with any foreigner who may be sitting
nearby in the restaurant, some who come by sailboat, some who
like you, came because they read this, and some because they have
been coming here for years and have a family house here. (I am one
of those people.)
G
oing to Kyparissi for a holiday you need to plan on staying here at
least five days and you will need a rental car and you will need to
know how to drive it. Few if any travel agencies book hotels in
Kyparissi and most have never even heard of it. If you try to book
through a travel agency you may find yourself in the town of
Kyparissia on the west coast of Greece which is a whole different
thing. Your best bet is to book directly with Yiannis and Esther at
Kyfanta Apartments and if they are full they can find you a room
elsewhere. For car rentals I suggest Swift Rent-a-Car in Athens and
they will drive you out of the city to the National Road and at least
you don’t have to worry about that part of the journey. The trip
down is pretty easy as far as Tripolis where it is a brand new
highway which is only crowded on holidays. From Tripolis you get on
a smaller road to Sparta and from there you can turn left towards
Geraki and follow your map, or go south towards Githion and then
follow the signs to Skala and then to Molai and from the main road
find the turnoff to the road that goes to Kyparissi. You will need a
map, especially from this point on. The roads are good in terms of
the pavement. There is little traffic and should take about an hour
from Molai until you reach the sea in very dramatic fashion and then
take the narrow road along the edge of the mountain. There is a
small Byzantine church right at the opening to the sea where
youcan stop and take a break, gather your courage, say a prayer
and then continue for the last harrowing twenty minutes. Once you
get to Kyparissi you will see that it was all worth it and really the
only scary part was thinking about it. You can also take a taxi which
will cost you a couple hundred euros but you get to sit back and
enjoy the trip. (See greecetravel.com/taxi) The only other option
besides driving is to take a water-taxi from Spetses which will take
about an hour and cost in the neighborhood of about 200 euros,
which can be split between people since it is per trip and not per
passenger.(Call Alex at (30) 6945901110) No matter how you end
up getting here, once you are here you will realize this is a special
place and want to stay as long as you can, if for no other reason to
avoid the long trip back.
James will begin each daily session with a demostration from 10.30am and talk about
the approach to that day’s goals, after which he will circulate, paying individual
attention to each student as they work. Students are free from 2.30pm onwards to have
lunch, continue with their work, swim, walk or siesta. The students&artist will meet
up again at 7.30pm each day at the hotel bar to look at work and discuss the
achievements and developments of that day.
To take advantage of the transport from Athens airport to the village meet at dooor A
of arrivals before 6pm on Saturday 29th May. The minibus will return to the airport
by 1pm on Sunday 6th June.
Materials provided will be one Pro Arte brush per student, Saunders Waterford paper,
Rembrandt watercolours and pencil – obviously students are welcome to bring their
own materials if they prefer.
Charges are:- Tuition (including transport&materials 50euros per day x7days =
350euro
How to book: contact James at jamesefoot@yahoo.co.uk
Hotel – single room&breakfast per person 45euros x 8nights = 360euro
- shared room&breakfast per person 32.50euros x 8nights = 260euro
How to book: contact Esther at Hotel Kyfanta
Matt's Greece Travel Guide
Itinerary Suggestions
Last weekend seemed like a good time to take a trip. Amarandi had
a school field trip to Sparta from Sat-Mon, and Tuesday was Ochi
Day, a Greek holiday celebrating their refusal to let the Italians
occupy the country at the beginning of World War Two, so it was a 4
day weekend if you skipped work or school on Monday. Our plan
was to go to the Peloponessos and then pick up Amarandi on
Monday from somewhere along the way and stretch out her trip, but
she did not want to suffer the humiliation of having her parents
meet her along the way and take her off so we had to plan on being
back in Athens on Monday night when she got back. So Saturday
morning we still did not have any concrete plans besides taking
Amarandi to ACS and putting her on the bus. I looked at weather
reports (www.meteo.gr is pretty good and even if you don't read
Greek you get the idea from the pictures) and it seemed that with
the exception of the island of Skyros, which was on our short-list,
where it was raining, it looked pretty good anywhere in Greece for
the end of October. But to be honest if we just stayed home and
passed the day and then went out at night in Athens I would have
been perfectly happy. Traveling seemed like a hassle and in my
mind we were not going to go anywhere. We would drop Amarandi
off and then go to a cafe or Starbucks and talk about where we
wanted to go and spend so long doing it that in the end Andrea
would just agree with me and we would go home. But things did not
go as planned and because we came to the entrance to the Attiki
Odos (National Road of Attika) before we came to a cafe I got on the
road and we still had no idea where we were going. Originally we
thought about Epirus but we really did not have enough time. Then I
wanted to go to Volos and drink tsipuro and eat their wonderful
seafood mezedes and explore the wooded Pelion Peninsula. Andrea
wanted to go to Pylos where there is some kind of chameleon
preservation park but that did not seem very exciting to me. We
thought about Zakynthos but that's the island where development is
endangering the carretta-caretta sea-tortoise so its on my list of
places to avoid. Lefkada was another option as was Patras and
Kefalonia. But we were approaching the intersection with the
National Road and we had to at least decide whether we were going
north or south. At the last moment we went south, not because we
had made a decision but because a big truck cut me off from the
exit so I really did not have a choice. We now had an hour to decide
whether to turn west towards Patras and see either Lefkada,
Kefalonia or the western Peloponessos or go south towards my
grandmother's village of Kyparissi and maybe down to Monemvasia
and Neapolis.
I was torn really. I have this sense of responsibility that tells me I
should find new places to write about for the website but there is a
sentimental part of me that just wants to go to my favorite places
and see my friends. The sentimental side usually wins out which is
why after working on the website for 15 years there is a lot of
Greece that I still have not been to. Maybe we should go to Kithira.
But the travel agents on my site are dreading the day I go there
because it is so far off the beaten track that they are almost
helpless to assist with hotels and ferry bookings and usually when I
write about an island it brings about a surge of interest which takes
them by surprise and sends them scrambling looking for contacts
and hotels if it is somewhere obscure. No. I will have mercy on the
agencies and save Kithira for sometime after the world economy
collapses. Lets go to Kyparissi, I said to Andrea. But first lets call
Electra, my Canadian friend who splits time between there and
Athens. When I told her I was on my way to Kyparissi she practically
screamed with delight. "I am on my way there too!" she said.
Well as you can see I am writing this with an eye to the future and a
possible Kyparissi page. But what about my weekend in Kyparissi?
Kosmas, Arkadia, GreeceOur nest stop was Kosmas just over Mount
Parnonas and across the border into Arcadia. Its a gorgeous
mountain village with cafeneons in a large tree shaded platia next
to the large church of Ag Anargiron with a fountain of lion heads
spitting water. There were chestnut trees everywhere, their leaves
changing bright yellow and in the square and in the small traditional
shops were big baskets of chestnuts for sale. We stopped in a small
traditional restaurant called O Elatos where two women and their
husbands crank out dishes of grilled paidakia, hirino brizoles(pork
chops), mouschari(steak), sikotaria (liver) and other meat dishes.
But the specialties of the village are what we ordered which
included yida, a goat soup that is eaten in the winter, gkougkes,
which is a local thick pasta with cheese, and pitaroudia, the local
horta or spinach pie which is fried, grilled or sauteed instead of
baked. They had an excellent local rose, more tan than pink and
almost like sherry which we wanted to get a bottle of to bring home
but they were in short supply. (They did have some at the Selinouta
traditional products shop in the square and whether it was as good I
will have to tell you when we finally get to drink it.) We ended up
spending as much time in Kosmas as we probably would have if we
had gone to see my relatives and once again when the waiter-owner
Thanassis asked me my katagogi and name it turned out he knew
all my cousins too because they used to hang out at his old taverna
in Geraki.
Ag Nikolas on the Leonidio-Kosmas roadThe road from Kosmas to
Leonidio is one of the most spectacular in Greece. You start in the
mountains and then go down through the Dafonas Gorge which in
the summer is a dry riverbed of white stones but in the winter and
spring must be fairly full of water if not a raging river of rapids.
Along the way is the monastery of Agios Nikolaos built into the side
of a rock cliff. There are a couple turnoffs to remote villages like
Paleohora, Platanaki, Ag Vasilios, Gagani, Socha and Vaskina, places
that see few if any tourists. Gradually you end up on a big fertile
plain where the town of Leonidio sits against the side of Mount
Karkovouni at the entrance to the gorge. Leonidio is a place that I
have always wanted to spend time in, since I was a child actually,
but have only seen while on the way somewhere. Its one of those
large towns that for one reason or another never got the
opportunity to be destroyed by hideous architecture like most of the
larger towns in Greece. There are several bridges which span the
riverbed and it must be an amazing site when there is water in it.