The South India Textiie Research Association Pet leatAn Inter-mill Study of Quality of Cotton Yarns The 22” Survey comparing 58 Mills | «Bost Quality of India Group Arindam Basu R.Pasupathy S.Kadirvel The South India Textile Research Association Coimbatore-641 014, India Vol. 50 October 2005 No.5ABSTRACT This report is based on SITRA's 22nd survey of the quality of yarns. In this survey, only medium and fine counts (40s ‘Ne and higher) ring spun yarns were considered. A detailed analysis has been made for 210 yarns and corresponding sliver samples belonging to 58 mills, which were collected during May - August 2005, The yarns were tested for various yarn properties like U%, Imperfections, Single Yarn Strength, Yarn Hairiness, and Yam Twist and the sliver samples were tested for number of Neps, Nep size and Short Fibre content. The results were compared with the previous survey results and Uster Statistics. The machineries and process parameters used by different mills have been included. CONTENTS ‘Summary of Conclusions 1, Introduction 2, Materials and methods 3. Results and discussions 3.1 Tensile properties and TPI 3.2 Unevenness and imperfections 3.3 Effect of yarn winding 3.4 Changes in yarn quality over the years 3.8°The quality of yarns against Uster Statistics 3.6 Influence of raw material quality 3.7 Machineries and process parameters 4, Acknowledgement Appendix | Appendix I Appendix lt Page No. 10 10 10 " 4 3210. SUMMARY OF CONCLUSIONS The average lea CSPs of 40s CW, 60s CW, 80s CW and 100s CW yams are 2782, 2774, 3021 and 2739 respectively. The average CSP is 2469 for 40s combed hosiery yarns. Lea count CV ranges from 1.4 to 1.8% for 40s CW to 100s CW yarns and 40s CH yarns. The single yarn strength (RKM) varies between 18.16 to 20.47 for warp yarn and 16.77 for 40s CH yarn, The average elongation at break value ranges from 4.4 to 4.8%. A few mills could achieve breaking elongation value above 5.5%. The mean unevenness value (U%) increases with increase in yarn fineness. The imperfections follow the same trend, The hairiness value given by Uster Evenness Tester decreases with increases in yarn fineness. The mean ‘H’ value is 4.55 for 40s CW yarn and 3.28 for 100s CW yarns. ‘The number of long hairs given by S3 values (Zweigle tester) increases with increase in yarn fineness. High speed winding causes some deterioration in yarn properties such as imperfections and hairiness. For number of thick places the deterioration in mean values ranges between 6% and 24% for different yarn counts and for neps and hairiness it ranges from 13% to 29% The cone yarn contains much less total long thick and thin classimat faults as Compared to cop yarn. In many cases the objectionable long thick and thin fault reach 0" level Over the years the CSP of yarns have improved considerably and the number of imperfections has reduced by 70 to 85% as compared to that of 1984 level. Many mills, producing 40s combed hosiery yarns, have achieved 25% of Uster Statistics level in yarn quality. Most of the mills, participated in the survey, use high speed autoleveller draw-frames. ‘They use modern ring frames and run the ring frames at spindle speeds of 20,000 rpm and above.1. Introduction In cotton yarn production India has made a mark in the world textile scenario. It is the largest exporter of the cotton yams in the world. Besides yarn exports, India's growing garment industry is working as a driving force to improve the yarn quality and to increase the production of cotton yarn. This has resulted in an overall improvement in the quality of all textile products including yarn and fabric. The WTO era has seen remarkable improvement in export of textiles. To help the mills in bench marking, SITRA has conducted a survey on the cotton yarn quality for fine and superfine yarns, in which 58 mills from all over India have taken part. This publication Feports the findings of the survey. The process parameters and fibre parameters, used by the Participating mills ere also included. 2. Materials and methods For this survey a total of 210 yarn samples from 58 mills were collected. The process Parameters and cotton particulars of those mills were collected through a questionaire. The draw frame slivers, collected from the participating mills were analysed by AFIS using ASTM-D-5866- 1995 method for nep analysis and Uster Standard method for length analysis. The results are shown in Appendix-I. The process parameters used by the mills are tabulated in Appendix-Ill. The yarn properties were assessed by using the following test methods and the results are shown in Appendix. Parameter Method Instrument 1 [Count ASTM — D ~ 1907-01 Electronic Lea CSP Tester Count CV% and Lea Strength ASTM - D - 1578-93 Strength CV% 2 | irregularity & ‘ASTM - D - 1425 - 96 Uster Tester 4 Imperfections 3__[Hairiness Uster__| Uster Standard Method Uster Tester 4 4 | Hairiness $3 ‘ASTM ~ D - 6647 - Ot Zweigle Hairiness Tester 5 | Single Yarn Uster Standard Method Uster Tensorapid 3 Strength & Traverse Speed : 5000mm/min Elongation Gauge Length : 0.5m 6 | Twist ‘ASTM ~ D - 1422 - $9 SITRA__ Microprocessor Twist Tester 7,_| Ciassimat ASTM — D - 6197-99 Uster Classimat3 The yarhs from ring bobbins (cops) and cones were tested for evenness and imperfections to study the influence of winding on them. Classimat faults were also studied for yarns from ring bobbins and cones. 3. Results and discussions The detail results of yarn properties are reported in Appendix-Il, The summary of the results are tabulated and discussed below. The yarns received were mainly warp yarns except 40s combed hosiery.3.1 Tensile properties and TPI Table 1 Yarn CSP, RKM and TPI (Mean values) Properties Count (Ne) 40sCH | 40sCw | S0scW | 60sCW | OsCW | 100sCW, ‘Actual count 38.9 | 39.7 | 497 [ 59.7 | 797 [ 99.2 Count CV % 14 [15 [14 [18 [14 17 Lea Strength (ib) | 63.9 | 70.2 | 60.9 | 46.6 | 37.9. | 27.7 Strengthcv% | 4.7 [42 [44 | 4.6 | 4.2 4.9) CSP 2469 | 2782 [3027 | 2774 | 3021 | 2739 RKM 16.77 | 18.16 | 20.11 | 18.90 | 20.47 | 19.43, RKM CV %, 6.10 | 8.31 [8.31 | 9.78 | 10.89 | 12.87 Elongation % 4.52 [4.77 | 4.72 | 4.70 | 4.40 | 4.60 Elongation CV % | 8.93 | 9.72 | 10.81 | 11.41 | 11.64 | 12.86 TPI 20.15 | 24.38 | 26.36 | 30.79 | 33.94 | 39.36 Tl CV % 4.73 [4.93 | 6.47 | 5.12 | 5.40 | 5.18 The tensile properties and TPI of yarns are reported in Table 1. It can be seen from the table that except 40sCH yarn the yarns are of right fineness. They are neither finer nor coarser. The CSP ranged from 2739 to 3027 for warp yarns and for 40sCH yarn it is 2469 (Fig.1). This shows that present yarns have very good strength. One salient feature for yarns of all fineness is the very low yarn count CV % ranging from 1.4 to 1.8. Presently most of the mills producing high quality yarns use Autolevellers on drawframes and on cards. This has resulted in reduction in count CV %. The RKM values for warp yarn ranges from 18.16 to 20.47 and for 40s CH yarns it is 16.77 (Fig.2). The mean elongation at break value mostly lies between 4.4 and 4.77%. Though the mean values show lower extension, few mills could achieve 5.5% to 6.1% elongation at break. For warp yarns twist multiplier, (TM) 3.73 to 3.92 are being used and for hosiery yarn it is around 3.20, Figure 1. CSP of yarns of different fineness 4000 3600 a . & - © 3000 2500 2000 40sCH 40sCW S0sCW 60sCW 80sCW 100sCW Yarn Count (Ne)e is 8 \n d oF Figure 2. Single yarn strength RKM 40SCH 40sCW S0SCW 60sCW 80sCW 100sCW Yarn Count (Ne) 3.2 Unevenness and Imperfections The mean unevenness, imperfections and hairiness of yams (from ring bobbins) of different fineness have been reported in Table 2. As expected it can be seen (Table 2 & Fig.3) that the unevenness increases with yarn fineness (except 50s CW). Similarly, the imperfections increase {as the yarns become finer. This is mainly due to reduction in number of fibers per cross-section. As the hairiness given by Uster Tester4 considers total length of hairs, this reduces with increase in yarn fineness. But Zweigle hairiness tester counts the hairs crossing particular length, resulting in increase in S3 values in many cases with increase in yarn fineness. Table 2 Yarn unevenness, imperfections and hairiness Count (Nel Properties 40sCH | 40sGW | S0scw | 60sCW | BOsCW | 100sCW. 0% 70.08 | 10.21 | 10.20 | 11.28 | 12.14 | 13.40 Cum 12.72 | 12.91 | 12.91 | 14.27 | 15.34 [16.99 Thin places/km (60%) 2 3 4 19 [47 [170 [Thick places/km (+ 50%) 29 40 32 77 107, 253 TRepsrkm (+ 200%) 6a_|_e7 | 84 | 165 | 214 | 419 Total imperfections/km 96 | 130 | 120 | 261 | 368 | 842 Thin places/km (-40%) 79_| too | 115 [| 305 | 852 | 1110 Thick places/km (+ 35%) 280_| 332 | 284 | 536 | 728 | 1199 ‘Neps/km (+ 140%) 317_| 396 | 392 | 717_|_912_|_ 1584 Total imperfectionsikm Extra: | 676 | 628 | 791 | 1668 | 2192 | 3893 sensitive H 402 | 455 | 376 | 303 | 338 [3.28 Sh 7,07 [1.02 | 0.83 [0.94 | 0.86 | 0.87 Zweigle Hairiness So se: | 25a | 659 | 946 | 958 | 1042 Index 197 | 226 | 149 | 251 | 243 | 218Figure 3 Unevenness of yarns of different fineness 10g 1021 ot 40sCH 40sCW 50sCW 60sCW 80sCW 100sCW ‘Yarn count (Ne) 3.3 Effect of yarn winding Most of the mills use high speed winding machines to wind the yarn. This process results in some changes in yarn quality such as yarn imperfections, hairiness, seldom occurring faults etc. due to the use of various guides, yarn clearers etc. on the machines. The properties of cop and cone yarns are tabulated in Tables 3 and 4, Table 3 imperfections and hairiness of cop and cone yarns Thin places | Thick places Neps Hairiness Yarn count |_(-50%) (+50%) | (+200%) (Hy ‘Cops | Cones | Cops | Cones | Cops | Cones | Cops | Cones 40sCH 2 [2 [28 | 33 [63 [71 [4921 6.36 ]93 106 40scw 3 [4 [40 | 44 [es [707 [4.55 15.72 Jing 44 50sCw 4 [4 | "32 [34 [24 | 100 [3.761451 J i20 13 ‘60scw i9_| 24 [77 [94 [165 | 202 [3.93 [4.63 ]261 220 ‘B0sCW 47_| 66 | 107 | 133 | 214 | 277 | 3.38 | 3.82 |See ero sooscw [170 | 192 | 263 | 290 | 419 | 528 [3.281 3.70] s&2 icor It can be seen from Table 3. and Figs.4,5,6 & 7 that after winding the number of thick places and neps have increased in all the cases. For number of thick places, the rate of increase varies from 6% to 24% and for the number of neps it is from13 to 29%. The increase in yarn hairiness ranges from 13 to 29%. There is an increase in number of thin places in four out of six cases. The increment in those four counts ranges from 13-40%. The neps, thick places and yarn hairiness increase due to rubbing of yarn against various guides, drums and rollers at very high speed. The increase in thin places is mainly due to stretch caused by high tension resulted from very high speed winding. These results are based on mean values for each count, further analysis of individual cases show more variation in increment for all four parameters. It can be seen that as the yarn becomes finer the increase in yarn hairiness after winding reduces (Fig.7) and the number of neps increases more rapidly (Fig. 6). Finer yarn generally contains lessnumber of fibres per cross-section. During winding due to rubbing and frictional contact of various machine parts many hairs become entangled which are indicated as neps by the evenness testers. New hairs are produced at slower rate due to availability of less free short fibre edges. Figure 4 Change in imperfections after winding Thin Places 10 Cop yarn+Cone yarh 140 130 120 110 100! 90 $A aaa 40sCH 40sCW 50sCW 60sCW 80sCW = 100sCV Yarn Count (Ne) Figure 5 Change in imperfections after winding Thick Places 0 [Cop yam ~Cone yam 130 * 120 110 400 $1» +» _____» ______» + 90 40sCH 40sCW S0sCW 60sCW 80sCW 100sCW Yarn Count (Ne)Figure 6 Change in imperfections after winding 136 130 “= Cop yam ~»Cone yarn’ 125 120 115, 110 105 100 95 90 40sCH 40scW S0scW —-60sCW aoscw — 100sCW ‘Yarn Count (Ne) Figure 7 Change in hairiness (H) after winding Hairiness 0 = Cop yarn «Cone yam 130 120 | 110 | 100 90 40sCH 40sCw s0scWw ——-60sCW Yern Count (Ne) goscw — 100sCW‘Table 4 shows the average number of classimat faults before and after winding for yarns of different fineness. The faults have been classified as follows: Total faults ‘Short thick faults [-| AT + B1 + C1 + 01 Long thick faults |-[& +F + G Thin faults =D + AY Objectionable faults ‘Obj. Short thick faults [- | A4 + B4 + C3 + D2 (Obj. Long thick fautts |-|€ + G (Obj. Thin faults = fiz Table 4 Classimat faults of yarns aoscw | 710 | 665 [12 130 [7 | 34 | 12 Yom Total faults Objectionable faults {am [Short ik Touts [Long tick aus [Thinfats | Short ‘hick fauis_[_Long thick faults [Thin faults Tops [Cones [Cops | Cones | Cops | Cones | Cops | Cones "Cops [Cones | Cops ' Cones ‘osu | 29 | 1985 | 8 2,3] 6 [7 1 4 1 o fo aoscw | 334 | 265 | 7 1 | {3 [0 0 3 0 o | 0 soscw | 2e1_| 242 [6 vo | [13 1 2 0 o [9 eoscw | s71 | S62 | 10 es _| 38 | 27 8 3 1 2 [0 4 1 1 0 13 [3 3 {0 voosow | 1394 [1471 [31 go2_| 157 | 56 [20 itcan be seen from Table 4 that after winding there are major reductions in total long thick and total thin faults. In most of the cases the objectionable long thick faults and thin faults have Feached ‘0’ level. The short thick faults do not show the same trend because the major settings Gn yarn clearers are made for clearing of long faults and objectionable faults. The individual vesults, shown in Appendix: will give @ better picture, as variations in some cases ere much high 3.4 Changes in yarn quality over the years SITRA has been conducting yarn quality surveys for many years to help the member mills in bench marking. A comparison of some of the yarn properties may show how the improvement in yarn quality is taking place over the years. Table - &, 6 & 7 show the CSP values, U% of yarns and imperfections obtained during last few surveys and present survey. Table 5 CSP of yarns over the years : Yam count | 1984 | 1996 | 2001 | 2008 40sCH 2154* | 2527 | 2492 eoscw _| 2400 | 2650_| 2749 | 2774 Boscw __| 2400 | 2550_| 2725 | 3021 1o0scw | 2360 | 2510 | 2590 | 2739 * 1992 SurveyTable 6 Unevenness of yarns over the years Yarn count (Ne) | 1987 | 1996 | 2001 _[ 2005 “40sCw ~ = 10.33 [10.21 60sCW. 73.8 [12.6 [11.45 [11.28 80sCW. 15.3 [14.3 [12.91 [12.14 100sCW 16.1 [16.1 [13.69 [13.40 Table 7 Imperfections of yarns per km over the years Thin places (-60%) | Thick places (+50%) | Neps (+200%) | Total Imperfections ‘Yarn count F983 | 1996 | 2005 | 1983 | 1996 | 2005 [1983] 1996|2005| 1983 | 1996 | 2005 }oscw. 17 |17 | 3 | 148 [ 120 | 40 [285/162 87 | 450 | 299 | 130 (eoscw 150 | 53 | 19 | 600 | 202 | 77 | 580] 235|165|1330| 490 | 261 OsCW. 200 | 207 | 66 | 625 | 634 | 133 | 680] 648 | 277 [1505 | 1369 | 476 rooscw | 300 | 324 | 192 | 630 | 619 | 290 [650 871 | 526 | 1580 | 1814 | 1007 Tables 5, 6 & 7 and Fig.8 show that over the years the CSP of the yarns have improved considerably and the unevenness and imperfections of the yarns have reduced to a great extent. Interestingly the imperfections have reduced by 70 to 85% as compared to that of 1984. This has occurred despite considerable increase in machine speeds including Ring spinning machines. Introduction of Auto-levellers on Cards and Draw frames have largely contributed to the reduction of yarn count CV %. Figure 8 CSP of yarns over the years 130 -=60sCW ©80sCW + 100sCW 125 120 115 110 105 100 95 1984 1996 2001 Yarn Count (Ne) 20053.5 The quality of yarns against Uster Statistics Table 8 Cumulative percentage of mills producing yarns (quality-wise) with relation to Uster Statistics 2001 Yarn count 4nscw e0scw a0scW vooscw osc Properties Sk 0 0 8 0 0 25% 33 0 16 21 0 KM 50% 94 5 6 36 0 75% | ___100 33 4 36 100 ‘Roove 75% : 100 100 100 : oh 0 0 0 2 0 25% 0 5 0 2 0 Elongation 50% 6 4 0 @ 0 75% 3% 2 8 36 30 Rove 75% |__100 100 100 100 100 Tops | Cones | Cops | Cones | Cons | Cones | Cops | Cones | Cops | Cones mrolstoe ts fof ol o | 7 [hol wel ss [ee 113 [ao | 38 | 8 [| 7 | [ e0 | 100 cvm sox {se | 100 | 43 |v | s4 | oo | oa | o | 100 75% | 100 7 |e | 5 | 10 | m | 86 ‘Above 75% vo | 100 | 100 yoo | 100 | waz tos 4 | oe | o fo fo fo fl | wel ss |e | | 2 | | 3 | [a [90 | 100 wees sox} sa | ea | sez | or | s¢ | 62 | so | s7 | 100 7sx [100 | 100 | 87 | 03 | 7 | a | 7 | 86 ‘Above 75% 700 [100 | 100 | 100 | too | wo | - me Te fo | o | o fo | 9 | of | oo Thick mela ton | | | se | [ o | wm | | 90 slaces sox 7 tse | s7|_74 | s4 | e2 | 29 | 36 | 100 | 100 (+50%) 7% | 100 [100 | 07 | too | #6 | 100 | 57 | 79 TAuove 75% ~ p10 |. | wo | - {wo | roo | - milo Te to fo | 8 | 8 | 9 fo | a | 0 meta toa | 4 || 8 [| wo [ o | 6 ay) Tem | 2 | | [| mo [a fw fo | 7 | © 7x {100 {10 [7e | or | o2 | a5 [| v4 | so | 100 ‘oove 75% Too [100 | 100 [100 [too [100 | oh ste poe fo}fo lo fo foto te toe Too fo fe | co [co Plo fl | lO Hains H wel [os ta fo | we [fw fo fo | wet 165] es | 4 | 92 | oo | 7 | 2 | 2 | 1 Mow 7ee | 100 T1009 | 100 | 100 | 100 | vo [ 100 | too | roo | 100Table 8 shows the percentage of mills (amongst the participating mills) which could achieve different levels of Uster Statistics, 2001 which is generally accepted as world standard. It can be seen from Table - 8 that quality of 40s Combed Hosiery yarn is exceptionally good e.g. 100% of the participating mills have achieved 5% level in yarn neps in cone yarn, 25% level in yarn CVm and thin places and 90% of them have achieved 25% level in thick places. For weaving yarns, finer the yarn it is more difficult to achieve 25% world standard. 71 to 82% of the mills producing 40s CW yarn could achieve 25% level in CVm, thin places and thick places. ‘As the yarn become finer this percentage has come down. The major weaknesses are high yarn hairiness and low elongetion at break. 3.6 Influence of raw material quality The yarn quality is largely influenced by the fibre properties. The quality parameters of drawframe slivers have been reported in Appendix ~ |. Generally longer and finer fibers are used for finer counts. The mean fibre length (by number) for 40sCW, 60sCW, 80sCW and 100s CW draw drawframe slivers lie between 22 mm - 23.9 mm, 23.6 mm ~ 26 mm, 26mm ~ 28 mm and 24 mm to 29.4 mm respectively. The short fibre content for the same were 11.4% - 15.4%, 8.6% - 14.3%, 6.1% - 11.3% and 5.1% to 16.9% respectively. It is clear from the above figures that as the yarn becomes finer mills use longer and more uniform fibers. The tensile properties of yarn are very much dependent on fibre properties such as fineness, strength, elongation. It can be seen that a mill could achieve 6.1% elongation at break for its 100sCW yarn (Appendix-II). Further analysis shows that it has used only one variety of cotton {DCH32) which has got a very good breaking elongation value of 7.26% and bundle strength value of 30 gms/tex. 3.7 Machineries and process parameters The machineries and process parameters used by the participating mills are tabulated in Appendix ~ Ill, Most of the participating mills are equipped with very high production cards with latest technologies such as Trumac DK 740, DK 760, DK 780, Rieter C1-2, Trutzschler DK 803, Lakshmi LC 300A etc. Generally the settings are made based on the yarn count and fibre quality. Similarly, majority of the mills use auto leveler draw frames such as Rieter D30, D35, RSB851, LR RSB851, RSBY61 etc. The delivery speed generally lies between 300 ~ 400 m/min. The details shown in Appendix ~ Ill show other process parameters, which vary depending on fibre quality and fineness of yarns. Most of the mills run their ring frames at very high speed, (spindle speed - 18000 to 20000 rpm) resulting in high efficiency. The spindle speeds in few cases have been reported, at 21500 to 22000 rpm. Similarly, some mills use little older version of ring frames and run their machines at 13500 to 15000 rpm. A good number of mills use autoconers such as Schlafhorst 338, 238, 138, Savio Espero, Orion, Murata Macconer 2IC etc Rest use manual winding machines such as RJK, Textool etc. The mills run autoconers at very high speed ranging from 1200 to 1400 m/min. For super fine count such as 100s Ne yarn the automatic winding machines are run at 900 to 1000 m/min. 4. Acknowledgement The authors are thankful to the participating mills for their help in the study. They are thankful to Ms Indra Doraiswamy, Adviser, SITRA for her valuable suggestions, made during the preparation of the report. 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Yam Twist —__—— _— muti |counr| cLass | Tee | copsi cones 0s RERDED ROSERT] er 13 | 40s | karoso|rosterr| Cops sar | 203 | ta | ss | zs | 4a 2 | fos |earoeD|Hosieny| COPS ses | zs | 1s | 37 | 2205 | 492 fa _| 40s_|RARDED|NOSIERY| COPS s73_| tao2 | 30 | 0 | 2573 | 5.00 Wes a1} ano [20] 87] 22.3808 10} fis | COMBED |HOSIERY] COPS a7] aio at] 88] tes] a 4 | 40s |comaeo|Hosiery| cops cra | oar | t+ | 60 | t999 | 432 13 | at |comaco|HosierY] cops er | ane | tt | 41 | 2081 | 258 23 | 40s [comaco|Hosieny| cops saa | 2500 | ts | a8 | 1995 | 558 20 | 40s [comaco|Hosiery| cops ers | 22 | 13 | 51 | 2202 | ats St | 40s [comecn|Hosiery| cops sis | zr | 10 | a1 | tox | 510 Ss | 40s [comeco|Hosiery| coPs ee | 2a | 12 | 4s | zz | ase 33 | 40s [comsco|Hosieny| cops sis | aur | ta | a7 | tar | 576 & | ate |compep|rosery| coms | 300 | e2s | 2s | a2 | 47 | zite | 500 $5 _| sts |comseo|uosenv| coms | 308 | cor | ase | 15 | sa | roo | 43s Hear seg—[-e33 [2st [ ar] 08 | a5 Sas [RARDED] WEFT] COPS [357 | ese | aoe J 18] 41 [2.14 | 398 2 | ats |karoeo| warp | cops | 308 | svi | 2266 | 22 | 6a | zr00| 542 Z| ats |earoeo| wane | cops | ais | sor | ame | 26 | 47 | 202 | 220 s2_| ‘os _[kanoeo| ware | cops sr2_| 2s | ts | $0 | 2010 | 402 esr sae si| a0] 2 | rer | as Sa} aie] COMBEDT WAR] COPS| 40.1] ony] aera] 13] —42_[zzss | 455 4 | ads |couseo| ware | cops | 305 | eat | 2723 | 15 | a7 | 2625 | 397 te | ats |Coweeo| wane | cops | 407 | yoo | 2am | 33 | 35 | 212 | 490 tr | ats |Comseo| war | cors | 303 | roa | ar | aa | a7 | 24sr | 490 31 | ats |Comseo| ware | cops | 400 | 750 | 000 | is | 43 | 2420 | 61 3s | ats |Comseo| ware | cops | sea | a7 | are | 12 | 33 | 2425 | sar % | ats [Comsen| ware | cops | sea | sao | aos | x3 | 38° | 2523 | 454 3% | ats |cowsen| ware | cops | sea | 62a | zr | 1s | 45 | 2505 | 306 S| aos |comsen| warp | cops | aa1 | exr | 205 | ts | 39° | zaot | ast 4% | aos Joompco| ware | coms | see | 72a | 2060 | 25 | 52 | zazz | sas & | fos |cowsen| warp | cops | 398 | cos | amas | 13 | 47 | 2380 | ser % | ats |cowsen] ware | coms | 401 | 726 | ao | 1s | 44 | 2200 | 533 % | as |comseo} war | cops | 300.| 701 | 02 | 10 | 32 498 | ats |comseo| warp | cops | 304 | oor | 270 | 18 | 45 an sr | ‘os |comsso| ware | Cops | sos | es | amo | is | 5: Pe S_| aos _[comsen| wane | coms | aoa | er7_| 270 | 14 | 38 563 Wea sar yoz—|-arer | 45 [a2 295 3s | COMBED|ROSERY]| COPS] ans] sea | a00e 3] 60 Sot 33_| s0s_|cowsen|nosterr| cops | a3 | sso | arr | to | 35 a5 ear C5 A 480 Sa] aos COMBED] WARP] COPS] S07 | Tas aoa te] 85 392 3 | sos |comsen| war | cors | ass | sos | 2068 | oo | a1 456 33 | sos |coaen| ware | cons | aas | sea | 2002 | 15 | 45 Set ie | se [compen] warp | Cops | 4e8 | seo | 200 | 14 | a4 533 |. 4s | sos |comaeo| ware | cops | s1o | s23 | 20 | 12 | 45 581 a | Ss [comeco] ware | cops soo | zt | 18 | 40 700 s7_|_$0s_|cowsen| ware | cops sea _| goa | 13 | 40 403 ean ena 3oa_[ ta at S47 14‘Appendix SP and Yam Twist mui [count] cass | Tye | cops: | count] stren | csp Jenrevn| strevx| te | Pcvm cones 1ST COMBED] WARE Cons | Eas] 20s] a8 ST 24_| 58s |compeo| ware | cops | s53_| we | 260 | 11 a4 | 9120 | 307 Hear ser [as [2098 | 44 a0] ste] 4.59 16. | 60s [COMBED |HOSERY] COPS [ses] arg [any | 14 [36 [2554 | a7 Ht 60s —[KARDED| WARP | -CoPs-[ era [mt | ait | a3 | 90] 207 [589 7} tsTconBeD] war] cors | —s87] aa | 254} 20] 55] 3009] 481 5 | 60s |comeen| ware | cops | saz | ara | 270 | 11 37 | soso | 4a @ | 60 |comaeo| waar | cors | seo | aa | 20 | 29 | 54 | 3219 | 495 4 | 60s |cowsen| warp | cors | eos | sor | 2s | 12 | 35 | 2073 | 409 0s |comeco} ware | cops | era | az1 | 258 | te | 62 | arso | 452 60s |comseo| warp | cops | seo | ses | aise | 11 a5 | asse-| 429 60s |comeco| ware | cops | ses | sz1 | so | 33 | 58 | 3050 | 528 2 | 60s |comsen| ware | cops | sos | 453 | 2s | ta | 44 | soma | saz @® | cos |comaeo| ware | cops | oo2 | dee | amo | v2 | se | 2a05-| 495 at | 60s |cowsen} war | cops | sex | az | 2601 | 25 | 41 | s162 | 505 3 | 60 |comsen| war | cors | sea | ao | 25m | tz | 44 | 3043 | 470 36 | 60s [comsen| ware | cops | sar | 463 | 20 | 12 | 34 | aor | 477 40 | 60s [comaen| ware | cops | soa | ase | ase | 21 | 46 | ase | 439 43 | 0s |comaeo| ware | cops | soo | 450 | 2oz | 37 | 39 | 3965 | 359 4 | 60s [couse] ware | cops | seo | ar2 | zm | 33 | 41 | atzs | aaa 42 | 60s |comsen| ware | cops | rz | 436 | zm | 49 | 51 | at15 | 500 51 | 60s |comaeo} war | cops} ooo | aa | 2658 | +7 | 35 | ata3 | 860 &% | eos |comaen| ware | cops | oo7 | axe | ame | te | 75 | 2aor.| 660 5 | 60s |comseo| wan | cors | ses | ase | ara | ts | 42 | 2050 | 653 5 | 60s |comaeo| warp | cors | ses | ars | 206 | 17 | 45 | sosz | 476 Gp | cos [comer] ware | cops | sos | sea | S577 | 17 | 39 | sosr-| ses or | wee [ara | 48 | 88 T3078 [52 3 | eee [oomaeD| wane | CoPs[ 653369 [2587 [a a9 | s47_[ 453 50 —| ess | KARDED| WaRP_| COPS ~e55 | me —[ 2086 [13 a5 | -3540-| 427 s0—| 68s [commen] waa | cops [ess | see [573] 12 [a5 | sa73 [812 3e_|7os—[Cowpen|-wanP_| Cops goa | so3 | soe | 44 43|- 051 | 585 “3 [725—|Gomseo| wane [cos] —7.6—[ a3] tase ts] a Paz 1 3] ts [CoMseo] wert | cops | 77s] set] 2610) 20133] saa] 52 i | eos |cowseo| wert | cors | 7es | a2s | 256 | 11 a9 | ssa | 472 47 | aos |comseo] werr | cops | aor | aco | zs | 19 | 54 | o4ae | ara 2 | sos |comeco} warp | cops | 77s | as | a0 | te | 42 | aoe | saz fz | 0: [cowsen] ware | cops | 700 | 290 | ans | se | 37 | sae | 427 ga | 20: |comseo| ware | cops | s2s | ave | aise | os | a2 | sai | 510 » | 20 |comseo] warp | cops | rez | aaa | arr | ts | 4a | 3350 | 609 %% | 0s |cowacn| warp | cops | ars | axe | suze | i 34 | aa58 | 549 as |comaco| ware | cops | aos | 413 | sas | to | 33 | aces | aoe 23) | oe |comseo] ware | cops | 02 | 412 | sor | 41 33° | 40 | aor «3 | eos |comaen} war | cops | raz | ara | a | te | 43° | sear | Sos s2_| eqs _|comseo| warp | cops | oo1 | a71_| 2070 | 18 | 56 | 3226 | sus Hosa 7a7 | ars[ sont | 4a 4233.90] 5.00 15Appendix-it CSP and Yarn Twist MALI [Sount| ciass | tvPe | cops: | counr | smren | csp | curevn| sreevx | 1 | teva cones 35__[Bis [COMBED] WARP_|- COPS] 37. a8 ‘8 | 90s COMBED| WEFT | COPS 481 11 | 90s |comaen| wert | cops 453 50 | 90s |comaeo] wert | cops 492 19 | 908 |comaeD| warr | Cops 5.02 30_| 90s_|comaen| ware | cops 5.00, Moan 482, 15 [Sts COMBED] WARP COPS 374 35_| 928 |comaco| ware | cops 455 ‘965 | COMBED] WARP] COPS 328 32_| 95s_|comaep| ware | cops. 6.06, Mean 5.7, 3” | 100s” [COMBED] WEFT | COPS ‘378 11 | 1008 |comseo| wert | cops 621 az | 100s |ComBeD| wert | Cops 4a @® | soos |comseo} wert | cors 475 43, | 100s |comaeo| wert | cops 421 20 | tos |comseo} warp | cops 601 22 | 100s |ComBep} ware | cops 22 | 100s |comaeo| warp | cops @® | 100s {compen} ware | cops 27 | 100s |comBen] warP | cops <@ | 100; |comseo] ware | cops Bi, | 1005 |comeeo} warr | cops 8) | 100s |comseo| warr | cops Moan 37 COMBED] WARP] COPS. 24 [COMBED] “WARB_[ COPS: 16Appendix-It Single Yarn Strength and Zweigle Hairiness an ‘muti |] couxr] cuass | ree | cors: | so | oex | sonce | staucvx|eLoncs|eLoNG cv] RKa CONES [2] aos RAREST ROSERY. COPS] Tae [aE] sare] anatase) Te we | ace |ranoen|tiosieny| cors | toss | 252 | 202 | t19 | 467 | 975 | 1620 3 | fi KGkoeo|sosienr| cops | toot | a7 | zis0 | 91s | sos | sar | tee 2 | St |akbep|Hostenr| cops | aier_| aos | 2051 | vise | sss | 970 | 1380 ea en CZ A AE sat | | OOMBED| HOSIERY] GOPS[ tas | ma [284] 903] 402 | 76) tear | ite [Cowscolnosterr| cors | 2400 | s05 | 207 | 1029 | ses | 7a7 | 1690 12 | 8 |GGMeep|tosieny] coms | ‘ae | co | 2560 | 732 | 405 | are | sae | MS |Soueeolnosierr| cops | sre | t | 22 | ose | 428 | 92 | te98 % | ics |Gousen|nosienr| cops | izes | 510 | 202 | 0s | sor | soe | 1020 | Set |Someeo|nostenr| cops | sor | 78 | 27s | ar | 420 | oar | te0e “|G [Goneeo|nostery| cors | aoe | 53 | 2504 | 799 | a04 | toa0 | 1695 4 | St |Sombeo|tosieny| cops | sat | 76 | 2500 | 70s | 450 | aan | 1012 & | 4 |Coueeolriosierr| Gors | sco | a1 | 2s | 710 | 467 | 993 | 1720 &_| ts |cowseo|uosierr| cos |_s71_| too | 2394 aig | see | so2t Tes aat_—| 197 [207 a32-[ 383 [1677 Faas] RAROED] WEFT | -GOPS [ior] 172) — 2549 38} ess] 798 ty | ate [anoeo| ware | cops | 7e¢ | ter | 2304 for | waar | te2t 5 | foe |ranoeo| ware | Cops | 1593 | se } 2109 see | 91s | 1428 S| ‘0s _|kamoeo| ware | cops | 271 |_60s_| 225 as | ses_| 1526 Head jam[ 3s 81 $23 [ teas [159 So | aos [COMBED] WARE | COPS] 811] 170] 3580 Siar tre 1S | ie [Couseo] ware | cors | tess | sos | 2530 | s27 | sas | sa: | ser 1 | %o [eoueeo| ware | Cops | 7s | zu | 273s | see | 471 | 976 | ese S$ | Ms |Goueeo) ware | Cors | ac | ‘co | 238 | 795 | 467 | 1000 | 706 3 | Sth [owaeo| warp | cops | ser | zr | zs | gar | 479 | 965 | tess 3 | a |Someeo| ware | cops | 7s | 220 | 20 | 765 | 441 | ore | 1798 % | 4 [eoueeD| Ware | Cops | tase | soz | za | 753 | 447 | soos | t228 % 1 [Gowseo| ware | Gos | rrr | ae | 228 | 805 | sm | soe | rear S| [Songeo] ware | Gors | ara | ice | 200 | so0e | a76 | 1053 | 603 # | a |oueeo] ware | Cops | tur | 22 | 2.0 | ie | sos | 990 | 1900 % | St |Gomseo] warp | cors | to42 | 300 | 272 | rae | 4g2 | soar | 1897 2 | fet [onsen] ware | cops | sr | se | zais | 77 | sar | sar | 1905 $2 | Sh |omaeo] warp | cops | 20 | 32 | 2007 | rar | 430 | aso | e862 & | [eomeco] Ware | Cops | tose | aes | zs | ses | sao | 973 | ese S| % [Gouseol ware | cors | ror | tee | 2032 | sot | sss | 00 | ves S| 3 |Sougeol ware | Cops | ass | ze | 203 | 4s | aes | 126s | ws6 es eet ear |r ae ean | foousen|nOSERY] COPS} sie} tas] aos] rer] aa] isa |r Tz [Se [Somscolnosien| cops | ors | ts | 210 | 74a | 467 | oo | 10 Tea Sor iss toa] 788 [aaa [near ss 1, | comaco] wan} COPS|— a6] 54] —a053 [re [ aaa [agi [ase 3 | Se [Comocol ware | cors | seo | se | 224 | 801 | 409 | sso | t268 | SS [eoteeo] Ware | Corps | tra | ge | zo | 996 | sor | s109 | ro00 % | Se |ESieeol ware | cops | sor | tse | zr7 | 80s | as | 104s | 1027 S$ | S% [onsen] ware | cops | ex | ter | z0es | see | 305 | ts40 | 1739 $3 | Ss |Gomeeo| wane | cops | too | 18 | zr2 | 10 | ace | 148 | 192 S| Se [Susesl Ware | cops | ere_| 13s | 20 | sos | eas | car | sss ean a 47Single Yarn Strength and Zweigle Hairinoss. Appendixelt muti | count} cass | type | cops)| ss | inoex | B-FORCE JELONG %| ELONG cv%| KM cones. 7 |e COMBED] WARP COPS | 401] 107] 2007 a 24 | s6s_|comseo| ware | cops | 16s_| 393 | tott 529 | 809 | sa12 Moan 1003—| —250—[ 19839 454_[ 10.48 —|—1857. 48 | “60s | COMBED| HOSIERY] COPS — 007 | 245 168.6 4051140] 47.24 i [60s RARDED| wan _[-Cops[ 1303 398] 139.4 6241140] 14 16 1 [60s [COMBED] “WaRP-|-coPs-|—si6 | tia] 1788 cc 5 | 60s compen] warp | cops | ai2 | 243 | t915 ast | 1244 | 1945 9 | 60s |comBeo} war | cops | ies | 402 | 1804 529 | torr | 1933 12 | 60s |coween| warp | cops | 1076 | 243 | 1832 442] tat | ta6t 13 | 608 |Compen| warp | cops | 127 | 309 | i746 42 | te7r | ar7a 13. | 605 |compeo| warp | cops | 73 | 208 | 2070 600 | ss | 2103 1s | 605 |cowpeo| warp | cops | 673 | 193 | 2049 496 | s82 | 2082 26 | 60s |comsen| ware | cops | o4o | 186 | 1369 455 | 1194 | 1809 29 | 60s |comsen| warp | cops | 956 | 204 | i938 433 | ase | 1969 31 | 60s {comaen} warp | cops | 1115 | 267 | 1764 523 | toro | aez 33, | 60s |compen] war | cops | sz | ‘4s | 1708 42 | s3e¢ | s027 | 34 | 608 |comBen| warp | cops | i399 | 417 | 1879 470 | t107 | 1908 40 | 608 compen] warp | cops | sre | 146 | te31 402 | te4¢ | 1359 43 | 60s |comaco! ware | cops | ss | 420 | toto ss3 | 735 | 1339 4¢ | 60s |comaen] ware | cops | i300 | 414 | tesa 436 | tos | 1883 49 | 60s |comaeo] ware | cops | si | 158 | i726 401 | toas | i756 51 | 60s |comaeo| warp | cops | 1423 | a7 | teas 4s | 964 | 1670 52 | 60s |compeo| warp | cops | os | ats | i7is 4e¢ | 1319 | a7a2 53 | 60s |cowseo| warp | cops | 581 | 50 1839 427 | 1526 | 1968 st | 60s [compen]. ware | cops | sis | 73 1957 sss | 943 | 1969 se_| 60s_|comsep] ware | cops | 501 _| 9 | 2254 431_| 1198 | 22.00 Moar 346_| 251] 186.1 470 [ 11.41 | 14.90 13_[-64s [COMBED] “WARE-|COPS_| “1951 380 | 160.5 499 13.81] “17.39 50 “655 —[ KARDED|_ WARP [~ Cops 1335 7a [142 483] 1127 | 1588 50_—| “66s [COWBED|_WARP_|~COPS_| —1s4—] 321 _[ 151.3 4 732 —|~ieat 3870s | COMBED|_WARP_[~coPS_| ras | 12 | 205.6 323 | 755 |24 36. ‘43 [72s [Comaeb|_wae_|_Cops-| —as0_| 239 | 143.6 494 1295 [17.50 3 | 80s COMBED] Wert | COPS | 11381 24] 1357 404] 1402 | 18.38 17 | 80s |comaen| wert | cops | 1539 | 4 | i279 ait | tog | i732 47 | es |comaco| wert | cops | sss} 138 | i988 427 | 1263 | 1880 2 | ss compen] ware | cops | 1233 | 24 | 1228 491 | 1225 | 1798 12 | 608 [compen] warp | cops | soo | 272 | i577, 403 | s267 | 2.36 14 | a0: |comBen| ware | cops | 1506 | 365 | 1454 456 | st40 | 1083 25 | a0s |comaeo| warp | cops | six | ‘sr | i780 as7 | saz | zat 25 | as |comBen| war | cops | a7 | te | i629 422 | s177 | 2206 28 | sos |compeo| warp | cops | i110 | 281 | 1649 4e.| sae | 2233 29 | 80s |comeeo| ware | cops | “536 | 146 | 1707 47 [oes | 2332 49 | 80s |comaen] ware | cops | 1409 | a7 | 1551 416 | 1159 | 2401 so_| sos [compen] ware | cops |_sea_| t17 | taae 4a0_| 1091 | 1929 Mean 358243] 454 440—[ 11642047 18Appondixt ‘Single Yarn Strength and Zweigle Hairiness oro mui] count] crass | type | cops: | ss | inoex | B-FORCE | STRNCV%|ELONG %/ELONG CV) | RKM CONES, z TEOMEED] WARE | cors_[ 1548] “755 3 80s] COMBED] WerT | COPS | 1260” |~ 200 41 | 908 |comaeo] wert | cops | is2t | 399 50 | 90s |comaen] wert | cops ) 60 | 204 49 | 908 [Comeeo! ware | cos | 700 | 119 30_| 20s _|compen| war | cops | 1205 | _253 oar 4113 [336 $3] ais | COMBED] WARP [COPS] 758 | 185 3s_| ozs _|comaen| warp | cops | 962 _| 172 co 70182 Saas [COMBED] WARP [COPS] —T37 [141 32_| 958 _|comsen| warp | cops | 1145 | 322 co ‘oat | 252 Foes | ComBED] WERT | COPS | 1275 [172 ix | 1008 |comaco| wert | cos | 1104 | 218 47 | 1008 |comaeo) wert | cops | 1332 | 260 36 | 100s |comaco| wert | cops | 581 | 76 1308 3 | ies \Gomeen| werr | cops | saa | ze7 | toro | 1194 | 529 | to9¢ | 028 | Wot |Gouacol ware | cops | oa | 24 | 1305 | 1390 | 408 | 1267 | 22% 2 | 100 |comaeo| warp | cops | 703 | 174 | 1039 si00 | 432 | 1236 | 1759 2 | M8 |Gomaco| warp | cops | tte | 233 | 1048} stgo | sae | 1098 | 78 2 | Mor \conaeo| ware | cops | ser | tsa | 1273 | 1276 | 432 | 1390 | tt 27 | 100s |comaeo| warp | cops | sos | 97 joos | tat | 44s | s267 | 18.08 2 | 100: |comeeo| warp | cops | si | 152 | 1256 sao | 445 | 1255 | 2127 2 | ites |comeeo| ware | cops | 15 | 239 | 1025 | 1477 | 403 | teu | Dee 3h | Woe [Gowaen| ware | cops | 2aee_| 73x | 1936 | 1371 | sot} 1598 _}_2268 Mean ia ae a EK ean | a toommen| waRP| COPS | sve [65 | ios ize fo. fag te St ee ueDL WARP-[ Cops | izes [ase [11201408 {aar [10st Fase a7 [200s [comaeo| wert | Cops|—trz [s: 2385 $03 [5.03 ‘960 [20.19 75] zists | COMBED|HT WARB] CONES [— 15 0 2569 228] ase | 1207 | 2044 19ara a+ vw foo for fou o je uy € | a | oo | + ofc avn ° w fom fz | o of. aM ' o |aw | [iz of] ove 5 su fos | | s of 4 ‘an 4 a | we | ic | o ofe an 5 wu | ae [oa | o je avn € w» | os | o | ¢ o je aan » va jae | z | s ofc an 1 ufo fs fz ofc on 6 vo | me | z | o o | z on 3 so fou |e | ofa ame : z | oo |o | + oft ak * s | om | o | ¢ oz avn 2 os fun 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