Needles

A sewing needle is a long slender tool with a pointed tip. The first needles
were made of bone or wood; modern ones are manufactured from high
carbon steel wire, nickel- or gold plated for corrosion resistance. Needles are
designed to pierce the fabric and create a hole so thread can be carried
through the fabric. The needle forms a thread loop after it passes through
the fabric and begins to retract and rise. For some types of stitches the
needle must pass through a thread loop formed by the lower looper.

Function of a Needle:

• Making a hole through the fabric without damaging the fabric which is
the path of passing needle with sewing thread.

• After penetrating the needle with thread through the fabric, make loop
of needle thread which will pick up by a hook of bobbin case.

• Without Lockstitch machine, passing of needle thread through the loop

made by looper.

Parts of Sewing Needle:

A sewing needle is composed of different parts. Each part represents a

variable that may affect selection and performance. The parts of a sewing
needle are identified in the following figure.

The Butt is the upper end of the thick portion of the needle. Length is
measured from the butt to the top of the eye. It helps the needle to attach
easily with the needle bar or clamp of the sewing machine.

The Shank is the thick upper portion that fits into the needle bar. Shanks
may be round, flat on one side (slabbed) or flat on two sides (double
slabbed), but must be matched to machine requirements.

The Shoulder is a part between shank and blade of the needle. When the
needle penetrates through the fabric to reach its lowest position, then the
shoulder also penetrates through the fabric. As a result, it reduces the
friction between needle and fabric by producing a wider hole on fabric.

The Blade is the long thin part of the needle that extends from the shank to
the top of the eye. Blade length varies with machines type and sewing
needs. A blade may have a long groove on one side, a short groove above
and below the eye or a spiral groove. The long groove provides a channel for
thread as the needle goes through the fabric. Blades are subject to higher
friction as they enter and withdraw from fabric with each stitch. Needle size
is determined by the blade width.

The long groove is a long and thin groove in blade from shoulder to needle
eye. During up and down of needle through the fabric during sewing, the
sewing thread take place in this groove and thus reduce the friction between
fabric, needle and thread.

The Short Groove is placed in the side of the needle in which side the hook
or looper is placed. It is a small groove between needle eye and tip. It helps
sewing thread to create loop.

The Eye is the hole that thread must pass through freely. It is a small slot
between short and long groove of the needle. It holds the sewing thread and
helps to create loop.

A Scarf or Spot is a recess cut across the short groove side of the needle,
just above the eye. It is a curved slot at near above the eye. It helps to close
setting between the needle and the looper.

The Point is the area below the eye, including the Tip. The point and tip
make the initial penetration into fabric and must be appropriate for the fabric
being sewn. Selection of the wrong tip and point can cause permanent
damage to the fabric.

Selection of Needle:

Selection of the appropriate needle depends on the type of machine, other

stitch forming parts, thread size and fabric characteristics. Thread size and
type are selected first, then needle size is matched to the thread. The needle
type number classifies the needle as to eye, finish, groove, point, shaft and
total length. Size refers to blade width. An incorrect needle may prevent
stitch formation and cause thread breakage, skipped stitches, poor stitch
uniformity and fabric damage.

Effect of wrong needle selection:

>> If the needle is finer than sewing thread then;

• The thread cannot move easily through the needle eye.

• The thread will not take position perfectly at needle long groove.
 • More heat will generate on needle for more friction.

• The result is more thread breakage and production loss.

>> If the thread is finer than needle then;

• May produced slipped stitch as the needle cannot create perfect size of
loop.

>> If the needle is coarser than the required fabric then;

• Fabric will be looked odd due to bigger hole.

• Seam pucker may produce on woven fabric.

>> If the Needle is finer than required fabric then;

• During sewing needle will deflect and become curve with the action of
throat plate.

• The curve needle will produce slipped stitch as the looper may not
catch the loop needle thread.