Y4 Module 1 Draft and Cut Pattern For Mens Casual Apparel

Republic of the Philippines
Department of Education
PUBLIC TECHNICAL-
VOCATIONAL
HIGH SCHOOLS
Unit of Competency: Draft and Cut Patterns for Men’s

Casual Apparel
Module no. 1 Module Title: Drafting and Cutting Patterns for
Men’s Casual Apparel
MODULE 1
QUALIFICATION TITLE : GARMENTS NC II
UNIT OF COMPETINCY : DRAFT AND CUT PATTERN FOR MEN’S

CASUAL APPAREL
MODULE TITLE : DRAFTING AND CUTTING PATTERN

FOR MEN’S CASUAL APPAREL
NOMINAL DURATION : 125 HOURS
GARMENTS NC II
WHAT IS THIS MODULE ABOUT?
This module covers the knowledge, skills, and attitudes required in

drafting and cutting of basic and block patterns for men’s casual apparel.
It includes the requirements for planning garment design, in taking body
measurements and drafting of basic/block and cutting patterns for men’s
casual apparel.
WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?
At the end of this module, you should be able to:

a. plan garment design;
b. take client’s body measurements;
c. draft basic/block pattern; and
d. manipulate and cut final pattern.
WHAT DO YOU ALREADY KNOW?
Pre-test
The following items below will test how much you already know
about men’s casual apparel. Select the correct answer from the options
given for each item. Write the answer in your quiz notebook.
1. What factor in garment planning is considered to suit one’s daily

lifestyle?
a. personal needs
b. resources
c. time and event
d. any of the above
2. Which characteristic refers to the smoothness or dullness of a
fabric?
a. color
b. hue
c. intensity
d. texture
3. How are cotton fabrics different from rayon and polyester?
a. lustrous
b. resilient
c. shrink-resistant
d. stronger when wet
4. Which devices are used to accuratly draft patterns?
a. cutting tools
b. measuring/shaping tools
c. pressing tools
d. sewing tools
5. Which tool is best in shaping slight curves of the pattern?
a. French curve
b. hip curve
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c. L-square
d. triangle
6. Which point of the body is located 4 inches (10.2 cm.) below
shoulder tip point?
a. chest point
b. elbow point
c. knee point
d. shoulder neck point
7. What part is measured when a tape measure is placed across the
shoulder tip points?
a. chest
b. crotch or rise
c. shoulder
d. waist
8. What measurement is taken from the nape (at the back of the
neck) down to the desired length?
a. length of long pants
b. length of shirt
c. length of sleeve
d. length of short pants
9. In order to locate the waistline, what should be done before
measuring body parts?
a. let the client point to his/her waist
b. put a piece of tape or adhesive on the waist of the client
c. tie a string on the waistline of the client
d. any of the above
10. Which method is correct in taking an accurate length of long
sleeves?
a. from shoulder tip point passing elbow to the wrist
b. from the shoulder tip point passing halfway bent elbow to the
wrist
c. from shoulder tip point passing full bent elbow to the wrist
d. any of the above
11. Which of the following is NOT part of short pants?
a. cuff
b. belt carrier
c. placket
d. pocket
12. Which CANNOT be applied on men’s polo shirt?
a. Chinese collar
b. continuous collar
c. executive collar
d. notched sports collar
13. What should be done to the overlap or button lap if the neckline
of the polo shirt pattern is shaped?
a. folded only half of the facing
b. folded whole facing towards the bodice
c. shaped without folding the facing
d. any of the above
2
14. Where should the end of the tape measure be placed when you
measure the front neckline?
a. center front neckline
b. half of neckline
c. one inch from center line
d. one-third of neckline
15. What part of the waist circumference will be laid out in front of
the pants pattern?
a. ¼ of the waist circumference
b. ½ of the waist circumference
c. ¾ of the waist circumference
d. any of the above
16. In cutting patterns, which line should be cut?
a. dart line
b. neckline
c. pressing line
d. seam allowance
17. What is the characteristic of the armhole of a front polo shirt?
a. deeper than the back
b. longer than the back
c. shallow than the back
d. shorter than the back
18. How do you place a pressing line symbol in the block / final
pattern?
a. along the lengthwise grain
b. on the crosswise
c. 45◦ on the pattern
d. any of the above
19. Which pattern symbol is used to indicate centerlines, end of seam
lines.
a. bias grain
b. crosswise Grain
c. notch
d. lengthwise grain
20. Which part of the sleeve is set to the armhole of a polo shirt?
a. armscye
b. hem
c. sides
d. any of the above
3
LESSON 1
PLANNING GARMENT DESIGN
WHAT IS THIS LESSON ABOUT?
The lesson deals with the preparation of garments design, selection

of designs and consideration of the special needs of clients.
At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

1. discuss the factors in preparing a garment design;
2. select design and fabric; and
3. adjust garment designs according to client’s special needs.
LET US STUDY
Words to Study
Plan – a scheme or method of doing a plan or design.

Wardrobe – a complete outfit for a particular season or event.
Lifestyle – a way of living.

Complexion – the color and appearance of the skin.
Colorfast – characteristic of a fabric from resistance to fading or
running.
Crease resistance – resistance to mark of a wrinkle to fabric.
Evolvement – a development or changes as in the present fashion
Well-planned wardrobe offers the assurance of making the desired

“first impression” while a coordinated wardrobe is the result of a careful
planning and purchasing. A wardrobe plan does not happen instantly, it
is a state of continuous evolvement. As a preliminary step to wardrobe
planning, you may wish to identify and evaluate your current clothing.
You can refer to the listed factors below on a careful planning of a
garment.
Factors to Consider in Planning a Garment Design
1. Personal Needs
This includes all that one does, such as:
 Daily lifestyle
 Social activities
 Employment
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 Sports
 Travel
 Friends
2. Resources
This factor affects the planning stage of the garment where

simplicity and uniqueness through applications of different
accessories are being considered.
Questions often asked by the client to the designer:
 What appropriate design will fit me?

 How much do I need to pursue the planned garment design?
 What quality of fabrics and colors best suit my complexion
and activities?
3. Time and Event
Garment planning is very important to know how much time

you need to complete the wardrobe and how much attention you
give to its every detail.
Questions that a designer could ask to his client:
 What garment must be worn in a certain occasion?

 Where will it be worn?
 When will it be worn?
After evaluating the individuality of your client, his needs and

lifestyle, the next thing to do is to gather the things you need for making
the clothes. This involves selection of fabric designs that must be
carefully done by a designer/tailor in order to meet the specifications of
his client.
Fabric Selection for Men’s Apparel
Texture and color are factors that play important part in fabric
selection. Texture refers to the smoothness or dullness of a fabric. Does it
feel smooth, silky, or soft? Color is the reflection of an object that appears
to our eyes. Most men preferred light colored toppers and neutral
colored trousers.
Fabric designs also vary in choosing which lines of different
weights are very dominating among men’s apparel. Here are some fabric
designs used on men’s toppers:
Checkered Plaids Stripes
5
Quality in Fabrics
Another aspect in the selection of fabric is the quality. This refers

to the garments’ properties such as: colorfast; shrinkage; wrinkle
resistance and wash-and-wear properties which are considered to be
among the most desired characteristics in clothing. The table below can
guide you in selecting a good quality material for your project.
Fiber Characteristics General Handling and Care

 Comfortable to  Can be washed
wear because of in hot water,
absorbency machine washed,
 Stronger when tumble dried and
Cotton, Linen wet bleached
 Low resiliency  Can be ironed at high
and temperature – 400
 With tendency to degree Fahrenheit
wrinkle  Linen could be iron
damp for best result
 least expensive  can be washed as
and most widely cotton or linen
used fiber  should be ironed with
 comfortable a moderate ironing
Rayon because of temperature
absorbency
 lustrous
 good drapability
 weaker when
wet
 durable  spot should be clean
 resilient and easy to wash due
 crease resistant to low moisture
Polyester  shrink resistant absorption
 drapes well  can be washed by
 absorbent hand or machine
 easily washed  press with a cool iron
and dried under a damp cloth
The following fabrics may help you decide what kind of fabrics will
be used for specific garment.
6
A-Z Guide to Fabrics on Men’s Apparel
ACETATE
Silky finished drapes well. Blended with other fabrics, it adds to their
strength and beauty. It is made into fabrics like taffeta, satin, brocade,
jersey and linings.
ACRILAN
It is wool-like, bulky and soft. Comfort without weight, good pleat
retention, recovers quickly from creasing. Woven and knitted, it is used
for dresses, suits and jumpers.
BROCADE
All-over raised design with contrasting colors and surfaces, often
incorporating metallic threads. It comes in many weights for different
garments.
CALICO
This is hard wearing plain weave, usually printed, in various weights.
Used for Shirts and interfacings.
CHAMBRAY
(ch as in shop) Colored warp threads and a white filler thread create
attractive variations of stripped effects in plain cotton fabric. Children’s
clothes, shirt, pyjamas.
CORDUROY
Ribbed pile fabric, hard-wearing; various weights. Skirts, trousers,
jackets.
COTTON
Woven and knitted in many weights. (Most cotton fabrics listed under
generic names). All kinds of garments.
DENIM
Strong, twill-weave fabric; hard-wearing. Various weights and colors.
Jeans, skirts and jackets.
DUETTE
Double jersey. Suits, coats, trousers, skirts.
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GABARDINE
Twill weave, hard wearing fabric which can be shower-proofed. Suits,
coats, rainwear.
JACQUARD
Woven and knitted fabrics of complex structure and color combinations.
Dresses and suits.
JERSEY
Knitted fabric (single and double knit) in various weights. Soft; good
draping qualities; tends to stretch. Dresses, suits. (Double jersey with
less stretch is suitable for trousers).
LEATHER FABRIC
Fabrics treated for special finishes to simulate leather. Skirts, jackets.
Coats, bags.
LINEN
Plain weave natural fabric with uneven surface texture. Strong, cool and
absorbent. Skirts, trousers, coats.
MOHAIR
Knitted and woven fabrics including natural animal hair; soft and warm.
Coats, jackets, shawls.
NYLON
Fine woven or knitted fabric. Strong, non-absorbent, best blended with
other fibers; useful blended for all garments. Skirts, overalls.
ORGANDIE
Sheer, woven fabric; can be very soft or crisp according to finish.
Blouses, party dresses, collars and cuffs. The crisp one makes excellent
interfacing.
P.V.C.
Special, non-porous finish applied to woven or knitted base fabric.
Aprons, rainwear, coats, capes, jackets, hats and trous
RAYON
Fabric made from regenerated cellulose – originally it resembled silk.
Now best blended with other fibers.
SAILCLOTH
Strong, plain or basket weave fabric, originally stiff, for sails, now softer.
Skirts, jackets, trousers.
SATIN
Special weave where threads ‘float’ over the base threads, giving a sheen. Evening wear,
trimmings.
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SUEDE CLOTH
Woven or knitted fabric finished to resemble suede. Skirts, jackets,
trousers, bags.
TOWELLING
Looped fabric for absorbency. Originally pure cotton. Robes and
beachwear stretch baby and children’s wear, sport outfits.
TREVIRA
(Trade name) woven or fitted fabric. Skirts, jackets.
TWEED
Mostly woven but sometimes knitted. Usually checked patterns in
particular colors according to p[lace of origin, e.g. Harris Tweed. Suits
and coats.
VELVET
Warp pile fabric, woven. Various types: cut velvet (faconne’) panne velvet:
(silky Pile smoothed one way). Various weights for day and evening
wear. Capes, coats, suits, skirts, dresses.
WOOL
Woven and knitted as pure wool and it blends with natural and man-
made fibers to form many fabrics. Dresses, coats, suits, skirts.
WORSTED
Best quality wool, tightly woven, smooth, strong, wears well. Fine
worsted for winter dresses; suit and coat weights.
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How do we assess clients regarding his preferences? A sample form
will help you evaluate their needs.
Survey Record for Men’s Apparel
Client’s Name:__________________________________ Date:______________
 Check the appropriate box
 Student  Professional
SHIRT PREFERENCES:
Color  light /pastel  dark / neutral
Pockets  patch  welt
Sleeve  short  long
Fit  Loose  Snug
Fabric  Soft  Polyester
TROUSERS/PANTS:
Length  short  long
Fabric  Soft  Denim
LET US REMEMBER
Today’s successful apparel designer has a philosophy of

art, fashion and history plus an understanding of the factors of
one’s physical being. No matter how well designed or beautiful a
garment is, it will not be satisfying if it does not contribute to the
physical comfort of the wearer.
HOW MUCH HAVE YOU LEARNED?
Answer the questions below. Give examples to illustrate your ideas.
1. What are the factors affecting garment designs?

__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
2. Why do we need to assess the individuality of a person when

designing a garment?
_________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
3. Which type of fabrics are suited for men’s clothing? How are these
selected?
_________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED
Task 1
Look for a male client outside your classroom. He may be a teacher or

another student. Ask him the given items in the form below and report your
client’s evaluation to the class.
Task 2 Garment Sketching
Design a wardrobe that will fit the assessed client’s specifications.

Label the specific parts of the garments.
TASK 3 Enrichment Activity
Make an assessment of another client, a friend or a family member

Have a copy of the survey form below and enter your gathered
information about your assessed client. Be ready to share your
assessment to the class the next day.
Survey Record for Men’s Apparel
Client Name:__________________________________
Date:______________
 Check the appropriate box
 Student  Professional
SHIRT PREFERENCES:
Sleeve  short  long
Fabric  Soft  Polyester
TROUSERS/PANTS:
Length  short  long
Fabric  Soft  Denim
RESOURCES:
Supplies
 Bond paper
 Pencil
 Eraser
Materials
 Learning Modules
 Textbooks
 Men’s apparel Catalog
 Model Men’s apparel
 Fabric Swatches
REFERENCES:
Complete Guide to Sewing. Reader’s Digest. U.S.A. The Reader’s Digest

Association, Inc., 1976.
Cruz, Julia G. et al. Home Economics IV. Philippines. Adriana Publishing
Company, Inc., 1998.
De Cosse, Cy. et al. Singer (Sewing Update). U.S.A. Contemporary Book Inc.,
1988. Del Rosario, Marissa and Constancia Del Rosario. Clothing and
Textiles III & IV. Manila, Philippines. Philippine Book Company. 1986.
Erwin, Mabel D. Clothing for Moderns. Sixth Edition. Quezon City,
Philippines. JMC Press Inc., 1979.
Hilario, Carmelita B. Clothing Technology (Made Easy). Valenzuela City,
Philippines. 24k Printing Co., Inc., 2001.
Minott, Jan. Pants and Skirts. U.S.A. Burgess Publishing Company,174.
Navarro, Leticia S. Homemaking for You and Me (Clothing Construction).
Quezon City, Philippines. Abiva Publishing House, Inc., 1985.
Department of education, Culture and Sports ,SEDP Series. Technology and
Home Economics. Home Technology Clothing II Fourth Year High
School
LESSON 2
TAKING CLIENT’S BODY MEASUREMENTS
The lesson deals on how to take client’s body measurement using the
different measuring tools. This also involves accurate recording of
measurements that will serve as a guide of a well-drafted pattern.
At the end of the lesson you should be able to:
1. discuss and describe the measuring devices used in taking body

measurements;
2. demonstrate how to take and record body measurements based on
standard body measurement procedure; and
3. follow given standard in taking and recording of body measurements
for men’s apparel.
LET US STUDY
Words to study
ankle - the point or region between the front and the leg
circumference – the measurements taken around the
parts of the body
crotch - an angle formed by parting of two legs
length - the longer or longest dimension of an object
perpendicular – forming a right angle with each other or
with a given line
point of reference – the point of beginning and end of a
given measurement
torso – the trunk of a human body
wrist - the joint or region between the hand and the arm
A perfect fit requires perfect measurements of the body, pattern and
fabric. Accurate measuring tools are essential for accurate pattern drafting.
Do you still remember your tools in dressmaking? This lesson will refresh
your knowledge on the use of measuring devices. The skillful use of these
devices will help take body measurements and drafting of patterns with
accuracy and speed.
Measuring/Shaping Devices and Their Uses
A. L-Square
Divides the garment into the desired measurement. It perfects
squares and is useful in making straight lines and numbers. It
can also function like a tape measure. It has two arms
connected perpendicularly.
1. The longer arm is twenty-four (24) inches long.
2. The shorter arm is fourteen (14) inches long.
Characteristic of the Longer Arm L-Square
1. In front of the longer arm, there are six (6) different columns. The
numbers found in every column are equal.
2. The six (6) column parts are:
a. 1/24
b. 1/12
c. 1/6
d. 1/3
e. 2/3
f. By inch or the 24 inches column
3. At the back are numbers made from 1 to 24 inches. At the corner
of the L-Square is an aluminum that holds the two arms in a 90
degree angle. Both ends of the L-Square are secured with metal
sheets.
Characteristics of the Shorter Arm
1. Starting from the corner of the short one we can observe the
following:
a. 1/32
b. 1/16
c. 1/8
d. 1/4
In other L-Square the shorter arm has 16th, 8th, 4th, ½ and by
the inches.
2. The back part of the arm contains a four-inch measurement.
The two arms are secured with a curved metal sheet on the
inner portion.
B. The Hip Curve

This is used in connecting or shaping curve points. The
front part of the curve has a measure of inches. At the
back part is a measure of centimeters. It is marked every
five centimeters.
C. French Curve
This is used to shape the depth of the neck hole and arm
hole of the pattern.
D. Ruler
Ruler aids in connecting lines. They are graduated in
inches and centimeter which are commonly made of
either wood or plastic.
E. Yardstick
This is used for general marking and for measuring fabric
grainline when laying out the pattern. It should be made
of smooth, shellacked hardwood or metal.
F. See-through Ruler
This lets you see what you measure or mark. This ruler
is used to check fabric grainline and to mark buttonholes,
tucks, and pleats.
G. Tape Measure
It has the flexibility required to take body measurements.
Select a 60” (150 cm) long tape with metal tips, made of a
material that will not stretch. It should be reversible,
with numbers and markings printed on both sides.
H. See-Through T-Square
Is used to locate cross grains, alter patterns and square
off straight edges.
After you have identified the tools to be used in taking body

measurements and shaping tools for pattern drafting , let us take a look on
the different body points and lines on men’s figure. You must have a
mastery of this to ensure that measurements are taken from and-to exact
points.
BODY POINTS AND LINES
Shoulder
neck point Center back neck

Center neck point Center back
Shoulder blades shoulder tip
Chest Point
Armpit Side waist

point Elbow
point
Side hip
Knee point
Ankle
Neckline
Chestline
Waist
Elbow
Hip line
Knee level
Are you now excited for the first step in making a pattern? You need
to prepare the Personal Measurements Record (PMR) to register the
measurements you have taken from your client. The record should be kept
so that when he comes back for another project, you will just refer to it.
Below is a suggested format for a measurement record of your client.
Personal Measurement Record
Name: ______________________________________ Date:__________

Address: _______________________________________________________
Tel. No. ______________________ Mobile No.__________________
POLO
A. Shoulder _____________
B. Length of Polo Shirt _____________
C. Chest _____________
D. Waist _____________
E. Hip _____________
F. Length of sleeve _____________
G. Wrist _____________
H. Length of Sleeve (short) _____________
I. Short Sleeve circumference/girth _____________
J. Neck _____________
PANTS
D. Waist _____________
E. Hip _____________
K. Length of short pants _____________
L. Length of pants _____________
M. Knee circumference _____________
N. Ankle circumference _____________
O. Crotch or Rise _____________
Diagram on how to measure body measurements for men’s apparel.
HOW TO MEASURE FOR MEN’S APPAREL
A. Shoulder :Place the end of tape on shoulder tip passing the

nape across the other shoulder tip point.
B. Length of Shirt :Measure from the nape down to the desired length.
C. Chest :Encircle tape measure on the fullest part of the
upper body in line with chest inserting two fingers
in it.
D. Waist :Place tape measure in line and around the smallest
part of the waist.
E. Hip :Place tape measure in line and around the fullest
part of the hip.
F. Length of Sleeve (long): Place tape measure on shoulder tip down to the
elbow (halfway bent) and to the wrist.
G. Wrist: Encircle tape measure in line and around the wrist.
H. Length of Sleeve (short): Place tape measure on shoulder tip down to
the desired length of short sleeve.
I. Short Sleeve Circumference/Girth: From the measured short sleeve
length, place tape measure around the arms with
the desired circumference.
J. Neck :Place tape measure around the base of the neck.
K. Length of Short Pants: Place end of tape measure on waist down to the
desired length of the long pants.
L. Length of Long Pants :Place end of tape measure on waist down to the
desired length of the long pants.
M. Knee Circumference :Place tape measure in line and around the ankle
joint.
O. Crotch or Rise :Have your client sit on a chair, then place tape
measure on waist location down to the seat. Add 1”
to the measured length.
Efficient and accurate taking of body measurements depend on how

competent a tailor/dressmaker is. There are some pointers that you should
observe while taking body measurements. Try to follow them while enjoying
the pleasure they give.
POINTS TO REMEMBER IN TAKING BODY MEASUREMENTS
1. Ask the client politely to stand straight while taking measurements.

2. Use a soft flexible type of tape measure so it will be flat on the part to
be measured.
3. Tie a string on the exact waistline as a point of reference while taking
measurements.
4. Start with either horizontal or vertical measurements.
5. When measuring lengths, let the tape measure hang freely for a more
accurate measurement.
6. In measuring distances or widths, place the end of tape measure to
the exact point of reference.
7. In taking circumference, insert two fingers on the part being
measured to provide an allowance.
8. Avoid taking measurements in halves, fourths or eights if possible.
9. In measuring long sleeves, ask the client to bend halfway his elbow.
10. Always have a ready personal measurement chart for every client so
you can be sure that all measurements can be taken.
To facilitate correct proportion of measurements, you can refer

to the table below any time you need it. This can help you create a
well-proportioned garment asked by your client.
Men’s Standard Measurement

(Numbers are in Inches)
Items of Body S M M/L L XL XXL

Measurement
A Shoulder 17 17 1/2 18 18 1/2 19 19 1/2
B Length of Shirt 27 27 1/4 27 1/2 27 3/4 28 28 1/4
C Chest 34 36 38 40 42 44
D Waist 28 30 32 34 36 38
E Hip 36 38 40 42 44 46
F Long Sleeve 23 23 3/8 23 5/8 24 24 3/8 24 5/8
G. Wrist 8 8 1/4 8 1/2 8 3/4 9 9¼
H. Short Sleeve 9 9 1/2 10 10 1/2 11 11 ½
I. Short Sleeve 14 14 1/2 15 15 1/2 16 16 ½
Circumference
J. Neck 15 15 1/2 16 16 1/2 17 17 ½
K. Short Pants Length 20 20 ½ 21 21 ½ 22 22 ½
L Long Pants Length 38 40 41 42 43 44
M. Knee 19 20 20 ½ 21 21 1/2 22
Circumference
N Ankle 17 18 18 1/2 19 19 ½ 20
Circumference
O Crotch/Rise 10 10 1/2 11 11 ½ 12 12 ½
LET US REMEMBER
A well-fitted garment lies mainly on how measurements will be

taken into somebody’s figure. Remember to incorporate easy methods or
techniques so you can develop speed and accuracy. This is a skill that
tailors/dressmakers should have.
Answer the following questions briefly.

1. How do we measure vertical measurements?
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
2. What effective technique is used in taking horizontal measurements?
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
3. Why do we need to insert two fingers in the tape measure when taking
horizontal measurements?
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
TASK 1 SMALL GROUP WORK (SGW)
You will be divided into five groups. Each group will be given
measurements to be demonstrated to the class.
Group 1 Items A,B,C

Group 2 Items D,E,F
Group 3 Items G,H.I
Group 4 Items J,K,L
Group 5 Items M,N,O
TASK 2 PAIR WORK
Instruction:
Get a partner from your classmates. Copy the Personal Measurement

Record Form. Take the measurements of your partner and record it in his
PMR. Submit this to your teacher for evaluation.
TASK 3 Enrichment
Practice this at home: Ask two male family members of your family to
allow you to take their body measurements. Prepare their personal
measurement record together with the client’s record survey previously
learned in lesson 1.
How to Rate Your Performance
TASK 1
Each group will be given scores according to the accuracy of their

demonstration:
Well-explained and accurately demonstrated 5 90%

Somewhat explained but accurately demonstrated 4 85%
Poorly explained but accurately demonstrated 3 80%
Poorly explained and demonstrated 2 75%
Not explained and poorly demonstrated 1 70%
TASK 2
Your teacher will check the measurements you recorded in your
partner’s form. You must have 100% accuracy in your performance before
you can proceed to the next part of the module. If not, you will be required
to get another partner until you master the skill in taking accurate
measurements.
RESOURCES:
Tools
 L-square
 Hip Curve
 Tape Measure
 Triangle
 Meter stick
 Scissors
Supplies
 Bond paper
 Pencil
 Eraser
Materials
 Textbooks
 Sample Men’s apparel
 Personal Measurement Record
Equipment
 Model form
REFERENCES:

1988.
De Guzman, Ines A. and Suratos, Cesar P. Technology and Home

Economics (First Year). Manila, Philippines. Saint Bernadette
Publications, Inc.,1993.

Francisco, Chic R. Rudiments of Simplified Pattern Making of Men’s Wear.

Manila, Philippines. Golden Ideas Publishing House, Inc., 2006.

Minott, Jan. Pants and Skirts. U.S.A. Burgess Publishing Company, 1974.


School
LESSON 3
DRAFTING BASIC/BLOCK PATTERN FOR MEN’S APPAREL
The lesson deals on how to draft basic and block pattern of

men’s apparel based on costumer’s specifications using the appropriate
tools and materials.

1. identify the tools used in drafting basic/block pattern for men’s
apparel;
2. draft basic/block pattern of men’s polo and trousers; and
3. follow the criteria for a well-drafted basic/block pattern of men’s polo
and trousers.
LET US STUDY
Words to study
draft - a preliminary sketch of a working plan

pocket – a little bag or pouch especially sewn into a clothing for
carrying small items or money
patch – a single layer material applied on the right side of the
garment usually designed with different shapes
placket – a finished edge of a garment applied with garment.
button lap - the finished overlap in front of a garment applied with
buttons and buttonholes
hemline – a line at the bottom of a garment turned and finished
done by hand or machine
armhole – part of the upper body pattern where sleeve is set or
attached
notch – a V-cut design on the lapel of a collar
Preparing to Make Men’s Polo Shirt
Polo shirt is a loose garment for the upper part of the body, usually
having collars, either short or long sleeves, cuffs and a front opening. The
common collars used in polo shirts are the sport collar, standing collar,
Chinese collar and Mandarin collar.
Look at the illustration of a polo shirt below. What are the parts you
commonly see on men’s apparel?
It is just right to prepare a project plan for a men’s polo before you
make your pattern. Use the format below and carefully plan how to draft
your first project on men’s apparel.
Project Plan for Men’s Regular Polo Shirt
Name : _____________________________ Year and Section : _________________

Instructor : ________________________ Date Begin : ______________________
Rating : _________ Date Finished : ___________________
I. Objective :
Construct a polo shirt with executive collar, patch pocket and short
sleeves accurately and correctly.
II. Tools and Equipment Needed :

Drafting Cutting Sewing tools Sewing Equipment
tools/materials tools/equipment
L-square Cutting table Hand needles Lockstitch Sewing
machine
French curve Cutting shears Pins/pin cushion Overlock sewing
machine
triangle Seam ripper
pencil pair of scissors
Pattern paper
PMR
III. Sketch of the design

IV. Estimated Cost of Materials :
Qty. Unit Item Description Unit Cost Total cost

1 1/2 yrd Polyester cotton, 60” wide P 80.00 P 120.00
7 pcs buttons 2.00 14.00
1 spool thread 6.00 6.00
1/4 yrd Interfacing 40.00 10.00
Total P 150.00
V. Procedure:
1. Gather all the tools and materials needed.
2. Take body measurements and have it check by your teacher.
3. Draft the block and final patterns of the polo shirt.
4. Prepare the fabric for layout and cutting. (Refer to module 2)
5. Layout and cut the material. (Refer to module 2)
6. Transfer construction marks from pattern to fabric.
7. Assemble the polo shirt.(Refer to the steps in module 3)
8. Press, fit and evaluate.
9. Make alterations if needed. (Refer to module 4 for possible
alterations)
After gathering what you need in drafting the regular men’s polo,
make its pattern. This is quite different from a pattern of a blouse. You need
to follow carefully the steps to draft a well-fitted polo.
Drafting the Front and Back Pattern of Regular Men’s Polo Shirt
Facing
1. From the corner of pattern paper, measure 3 ½ inches ( 8.9 cm. ) and
mark as point 1a.
2. 1a to 1b = draw a perpendicular line for about 30 inches long ( 76.5
cm.)
Overlap or Button Lap

3. Ia to IIa = measure ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) and mark it point IIa
4. IIa to IIb = draw a perpendicular line for about 30 inches ( 76.5) long
then mark it IIb.
Back Shoulder
5. IIa to A = measure 2 inches ( 5.1 cm ) then mark it A. From point A,
draw a perpendicular line and measure 12 inches ( 30.5 ) outward
6. A to B = measure ½ of shoulder measurement and mark it B.
7. B to C = measure ½ inch ( 1.3 cm) and mark it C
Neckline
8. A to D = measure 3 inches outward (7.6 ) and mark it D
9. D to E = Draw a perpendicular line upward and mark it E.
10. D to F = measure 1 inch diagonally upward to get point F
11. A to G = measure 1 ¼ inches (3.2 cm.)
12. Connect points A,G,F and E with a round curve line or can be drawn
freehand.
13. Connect E to C with a straight line.
Front Shoulder
14. A to H =measure ¼ inch downward and mark it H
15. H to I = measure 3 inches (7.6 cm.) downward and mark it I.
16. I to J = measure ½ shoulder measurement and mark it J
17. J to K = measure ½ inch outward and mark it J
18. Connect points H and K with a straight line.
19. K to L = measure E to C and apply the same measurement on back
shoulder slope
Front Neck
20. Project a perpendicular line downward to get point M.
21. M to N = measure 1 1/4inches (3.2 cm.) and mark it N
22. Shape front neckline by connecting points L,N and I with a round
curve line or can be drawn freehand.
Neckline Adjustment
23. Apply ½ front neck measurement in adjusting neckline and reshape it
according to desired measurement.
Chest Level
24. H to O = measure ¼ chest measurement plus ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) and
mark it O. Project a horizontal perpendicular line for about
12 inches (30.5 cm.)
25. O to P = measure ¼ chest measurement and mark it P.
26. P to Q = measure 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) and mark it Q
27. P to R = measure 1 ¼ inches (3.2 cm.) and mark it R
28. Connect point C and R with a straight line.
29. Locate the midpoint of line J and R and mark it S.
30. Shape back armhole by connecting point C, S and Q. Use a different
color of pencil to identify front from back pattern.
Front Armhole Line

31. R to T = measure 1 inch (2.5 cm.) and mark it T.
32. Connect points K and T with a straight line
33. Locate the midpoint of line K,T and mark it U.
34. Shape front armhole connecting K, U, and Q. It has a deeper curve
than back armhole.
Length of Shirt
35. H to V = measure the length of the polo and mark it V. Project a 12
inches perpendicular line from point V.
Hemline
36. V to W = measure ¼ chest measurement and mark it W.
37. W to X = measure 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) and mark it X
Adjustment for the front Hemline

38. V to Y = measure 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) downward and mark it Y
39. Shape hemline with a slight curve by connecting point Y and X and
extend it to the button lap allowance.
Side Seam
40. Connect Q – X with a straight line to form side seam.
To Separate the Back Pattern

To separate back from front pattern, trace A, G, F, E, C, J, S, Q, X
and A into another sheet of pattern paper.
To Separate the Front Pattern

1. Fold facing allowance (1a and 1b) Hold the fold in place with pins.
2. Trace from point I, N, L, K, U, Q, X and Y.
The Collar
Collar is a part of a garment sewn around the neck. Just like any
details of a garment it is not only functional but also decorative in purpose.
There are varieties of collar to choose from for men’s apparel: sports collar,
mannish or executive collar and its variations.
In this lesson two kinds of collar will be presented so you can choose
the best one to suit your taste. The measurements needed are:
1. Front neck measurement __________________
2. Back neck measurement __________________
3. Collar width/height __________________
Here is how neck measurements are taken:
To Draft Notched Sports Collar
Prepare a paper. Fold in half.

Width: 18 inches (45.7 cm.)
Length: 5 inches (12.7 cm.)
1. Measure 1 inch from mid bottom and mark it A. Draw a 10 inches
(25.4 cm.) horizontal perpendicular line from point A.
2. A to B = measure ½ neck measurement and mark it B
3. A to C = measure 2 inches (5.1 cm.) and mark it C.
4. B to D = project point B upward and measure 2 inches (5.1 cm) and
mark it D.
5. D to E = measure ½ inch (1.3 cm.) and mark it F
6. B to F = measure ½ inch (1.3 cm.) and mark it F
7. Connect points F – E and A – F with a straight line.
8. Shape points A and F with a slight curve line.
This is how your sports collar will look when unfolded.
To Draft an Executive Collar
Prepare a pattern paper. Fold it in half.

Measurements Needed:
Front Neck: ___________

Back Neck: ____________
Collar Stand
Measure 1 inch from mid-bottom of pattern paper and mark it A.

Project it perpendicularly to the right
1. A to B = measure ½ of back neck measurement for the button lap and

mark it B
2. B to C = measure ½ front neck measurement plus ¾ inch and mark it
C
3. A to D = project point B upward. Measure 1 1/4 inches for the collar
stand height
4. Project point D perpendicularly to the right
5. D to E = equal to AB or ½ of back neck measurement and mark it E
6. E to F = measure ½ of front neck measurement and mark it F
7. C to G = measure ¾ inch upward and mark it F.
8. F to H = measure ¾ inch upward and mark it F
9. Connect B – G and E H with a curve line.
10. H to I = measure ¾ inch to the left and mark it I
11. Connect G and I with a straight line.
Collar Fall
12. D to J = measure 1 ½ inches upward and mark it J

13. Project it perpendicularly to the right
14. J to K = measure ½ of the back neck measurement and mark it K
15. K to L = measure ½ front neck measurement and mark it L
16. J to M = measure 1 ½ inches and project point M horizontally
17. Project point L and mark it N.
18. L to O = measure ¼ inch downward and mark it O.
19. N to P = measure ½ inch sideward and mark it P.
20. Join K and O with slight curve and P – O with a straight line.
The Sleeve
The sleeve for men’s casual apparel is just a basic one. It only differs
on the techniques applied in drafting it. Unlike on ladies apparel that adopt
the evolution of different garment styles and methods. Men’s casual
garments are usually short sleeve.
Start on how to measure the front and back armhole.
Do the following easy steps in drafting a sleeve for a regular polo shirt.
Sleeve length _______________
Sleeve cap height _______________
Front armhole measurement _______________
Back armhole measurement _______________
Lower arm girth _______________
1. Prepare a pattern paper.

Length: 26 inches (66 cm.)
2. Mark and draw a line on the center of the pattern paper.
Length of the sleeve
3. From top measure 1 inch and mark it A.

4. A to B = measure the desired sleeve length and mark it B. Project
point B perpendicularly to the right.
Sleeve Cap height
5. A to C = measure 1/8 of chest measurement and mark it C. Project it

perpendicularly to the right.
Front Cap Width Sleeve
6. A to D = measure ½ of the front cap width of sleeve diagonally to line C

and mark it D.
7. D to E = measure ¼ inch and mark it E.
8. Connect points A and E with a straight line.
9. Label line E-C “FRONT’ to indicate the side of the sleeve.
Front Cap Line
10. Divide line A-E into two equal parts and label it F.
11. Divide line A-F into two and mark it G.
12. G to H = measure ½ inch (1.3 cm.) and mark it H.
13. Divide line E-F and mark it I.
14. I to J = measure ½ inch (1.3 cm.) and mark it J.
15. Shape armscye by connecting A, H, F, J and E with a smooth curve
line.
Back Cap width of Sleeve
16 A to K = measure ½ of the back width and sleeve (back armhole)

diagonally to line C and mark it D.
17. K to L = measure ¼ inch and mark it L.
18. Connect point A and L with a straight line.
19. Label line C-L “BACK” to indicate the side of the sleeve.
Back Cap Line
20. Divide line A-L into two and mark it M.

21. M to N = measure ½ inch (1.3 cm.) upward and mark it N.
22. Divide line A-M into two parts and mark it O.
23. O to P = measure 5/8 inch (1.5 cm.) and mark it P.
24. Divide line M-L into two and mark it Q.
25. R to S = measure ¼ inch (0.6 cm.) and mark it S.
26. Shape back armscye by connecting A, P, N, Q, S at L with a smooth
curve line.
For Short Sleeve Length
27. A to B1 = measure desired length of short sleeve and mark it B1.

28. B1 to T1; B1 to T2 = measure ½ of bottom sleeve width (lower arm
girth) and mark both sides as T1 and T2.
29. Connect point E-T1 and L-T2 with a straight line.
30. Measure 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) from T1 and T2. Fold this when
making final pattern to follow the shape of side seam.
Preparing to Make a Pair of Long Pants
Long pants are very popular outfit today for both men and women but
they are costly whether they are ready-to-wear or tailor-made. Thus it is
practical to learn how to make them which may pave the way to a tailoring
business later on.
In preparation for pants construction, familiarize yourself with the
following terms:
1. Crotch. The part of the body where the legs meet.

2. Thigh. The part of the leg between the knee and the hips.
3. Draft. A preliminary sketch of a working plan.
4. Pocket. A little bag or pouch especially sewn into a clothing for
carrying money and small articles.
5. Patch. A piece of material used for mending a hole or tear or for
strengthening a weak spot.
6. Seam. A line formed by sewing together two pieces of materials.
7. Placket. A finished opening usually found at one end of a seam.
8. Waist. The part of the body between the ribs and hips.
9. Waistband. The band encircling the waist, as at the top of the skirt
or trousers.
10. Waistline. The line of he waist between the ribs and the hips.
Here is a sample project plan for making a pair of long pants with
pockets.
Project Plan for Long Pants with Slide Side Pockets

I.Objectives :
Construct long pants with slide side pocket accurately and correctly.

machine
machine
Pattern paper
PMR

IV. Estimated Bill of Materials :

1 yrd wool, 60” wide P 100.00 P 100.00
1 pair Pants hook & eye 5.00 5.00
¼ yrd Interfacing 40.00 10.00
Total P 121.00
V. Procedure:

2. Take body measurements and have it check by your teacher
3. Draft the block and final patterns of the long pants.
7. Assemble the long pants. (Refer to the steps in module 3)
alterations)
Drafting the Pattern for Men’s Long Pants
You need the following measurements when drafting the pattern for
men’s basic pants. Review on the previous lesson how to take the different
measurement asked below and list them in your personal measurement
record.
Measurements :
Pants Length 40 inches

Crotch or Rise 10 1/2 inches
Waist Circumference 30 inches
Hip Circumference 38 inches
Ankle Circumference 18 inches
Knee Circumference 20 inches
The steps in drafting the pattern for the front part are as follows :
Guide Line:
1. Draw a foundation line and mark it A.
2. A to B = 1 ½” upward and project a horizontal line from A
Rise
3. A to C = crotch or rise length. Project a horizontal perpendicular line.
Length of Pants
4. A to D = measure length of pants project a perpendicular line and
mark it D
5. D to E = measure 2 inches downward then project a horizontal
perpendicular line and mark it L.
6. C to F = measure 4 inches outward and mark it F
7. F to H = measure ¼ hip circumference and mark it H
8. H to I = measure 1/16 part of hip circumference and mark it I
9. I to J = measure ½ inch and mark it J
10. Project point H upward perpendicular to line A
11. H to M = measure 2 ½ inches upward and mark it M
12. H to L = measure ¾ inch mark it L
13. L to N = measure ¼ inch and mark it N
14. L to O = measure 1/4 waist circumference and mark it O
15. P = Midpoint of F and I and project perpendicularly
downward to line D.
16. Locate the midpoint of C and D and mark it Q.
17. Q to R = measure 1 inch and mark it R
18. S = intersection of lines P and R
19. S to S1 = measure ¼ knee circumference and mark it S1
20. S to S2 = measure ¼ knee circumference and mark it S2
21. P1 to T1 = measure ¼ankle circumference and mark it T1
22. P1 to T2 = measure ¼ ankle circumference and mark it T2
23. Connect F to O with curve line.
24. Connect J and M with a round curve line.
25. Connect J and S2 with a slight curve.
26. Connect F to S1 with a slight curve.
27. Connect S1 – T1 and S2 – T2 with a straight line.
28. Connect T1 – U1 and T2 – U2 with a straight line.
To Draft Back Part of Men’s Basic
Pants
1. L to #1 = measure 1 1/2 inches

and mark it #1
2. #1 to #2 = measure 1 ½ inches
upward and mark it #2
3. Connect #1 and #2 with straight
line.
4. #2 to #3 = measure ¼ waist
circumference and mark it #3
5. #3 to #4 = measure 1 ¾ inch
outward and mark it #4
6. Connect point #2 and #4 with a
straight line.
7. Locate the middle #4 and #2 and
mark it #5.
8. Project #5 perpendicular (90 degrees
) downward.
9. #5 to #6 = measure 4 ½ inches
downward and mark it #6
10. #5 to #7 = ½ inch sideward and
mark it #7
11. #5 to #8 = ½ inch sideward and
mark it #8
12. Form the dart by connecting #7,
#6 and #8.
13. J to #9 = ¼ inch downward,
then draw a broken line outward
and mark it #9
14. #9 to #10 = 1 inch inward and
mark it #10
15. I to #11 = 1 inch outward and mark it #11
16. #11 to #12 = 1 inch downward and mark it #12
17. Connect point #2 and H with a straight line passing points #10, #9
and ends in #12.
18. S1 to #13 = ¾ inch downward and mark it #13
19. S2 to #13a = ¾ inch – 1 inch outward and mark it 13a
20. U1 to #14 = ¾ inch – 1 inch outward and mark it #14
21. U2 to #14a = ¾ inch – 1 inch outward and mark it #14a
22. F to #15 = ¾ inch – 1 inch outward and mark it #15a
23. Connect points #4 and #15.
24. Connect #12 - #13 with curve line.
25. Connect #13 - #14 and #13a - #14a with a straight line
To Separate the Front and Back Pattern
1. Trace the front pattern. Follow the following points:

O, L, J, S2, U2, U1, S1, F and O
2. Transfer the grain line on pressing line.
3. Cut the front pattern and label it “FRONT”.
4. Trace the back pattern from point #4, #2, #12, #13a, #14a, #14, #13,
#15 and #4.
5. Trace the dart line from points #7, #8, #6 and transfer grain or
pressing line.
6. Cut the back pattern and label it “BACK”.
Separated front and back patterns of long pants
Preparing to Make a Pair of Short Pants
If you have enjoyed making a pattern for your long pants, making a
shorter version of it will now be easy for you. Short pants is a men’s light
garment having two separate leg section covering only the mid-thigh. This
can be made with fancy or decorative pockets in front and at the back. One
has to plan ahead how to make a simple pattern for another satisfying
project.
Project Plan for a Pair of Short Pants with Pockets
Here is a sample project plan for making a pair of short pants with
pockets.
Project Plan for Short Pants

I.Objectives :
Construct a short pants with slide side pocket accurately and
correctly.

machine
machine
Pattern paper
PMR
IV. Estimated Bill of Materials :

1 yrd wool, 60” wide P 100.00 P 100.00
1 pair Pants hook & eye 5.00 5.00
¼ yrd Interfacing 40.00 10.00
Total P 121.00
V. Procedure:

2. Take body measurements and have it check by your teacher
3. Draft the block and final patterns of the short pants.
7. Assemble the long pants. (Refer to the steps in module 3)
alterations)
A review on how to take measurements for short pants is given below.

Refer to each illustration so you can take measurements before drafting a
pattern. Be sure to keep a record of your client’s measurement.
1. Waist circumference – Adjust your pants to a

comfortable position and measure around the
narrowest part. Insert two fingers under the
tape measure.They serve as ease or allowance
2. Hip circumference – Measure around the

fullest part of the hip (buttocks). Again two
fingers under the tape measure for allowance.
3. Bottom circumference – Locate the front and

back crease of the pants worn by the person.
Measure around the middle of the thigh or
where the shorts length ends.
4. Crotch – Position a ruler (12 inch) under the

crotch between waist band until the tip of
the ruler.
5. Length of shorts – Adjust the pants to a
comfortable position and measure from the
side seam below the belt to the desired length
of the short.
Now, you are ready to draft your basic short pants pattern.
Below are the steps/procedures that you can easily follow.
Do the following easy steps in drafting the front part of short pants.
Waist _____________
Hip _____________
Crotch _____________
Length of shorts _____________
Bottom circumference _____________
1. Draw a foundation line and mark it A.
2. A to B = measure 1 ½ inches upward and project a horizontal
perpendicular line from A. Mark it B.
3. A to C = measure crotch or rise length then project it perpendicularly
and mark it C.
4. A to D = measure length of short pants then project it perpendicularly
and mark it D.
5. D to E = measure 2 inches downward then project it perpendicularly and
mark it D.
Hip Line
6. C to F = measure 4 inches outward and mark it F

6. F to H = measure ¼ hip circumference and mark it H.
7. H to I = measure 1/16 part of hip circumference and mark it I.
8. I to J = measure ½ inch and mark it J
9. Project point H vertically to point A. line A and mark it K
10. H to M = measure 2 ½ inches upward
11. K to L = measure ¾ inch and mark it L
12. L to N = measure ¼ inch and mark it N.
Waist Line
13. L to O = measure ¼ waist circumference and mark it O
Grain Line
14. P = midpoint of F and I. Project point P perpendicularly downward to
hemline (
Hem Line
15. P1 to Q = measure ¼ bottom circumference and mark it Q
16. P1 to Q1 = measure ¼ bottom circumference and mark it Q1.
Shaping In Seam and Side Seam

17. Connect F to O with a curve line using hip curve.
18.Connect J to M with a round curve line using French curve or can be
drawn free hand.
19. Connect F to Q with a straight line.
20. Connect J to Q with a slight curve line.
21. Extend Q1 and Q2 down to line E and mark it R1 and R2.
To Draft Back Part of a short Pants
Use front as the basis of the back pattern:

1. L to #1 = measure 1 ½ inches and mark it #1
2. #1 to #2 = measure 1 ½ inches upward and mark it #2
3. Connect # 1 and #2 with a straight line.
4. #2 to #3 = measure ¼ waist circumference and mark it #3
5. #3 to #4 = measure 1 inch outward and mark it #4
6. Connect points #2 and #4 with a straight line.
Dart
7. Locate the middle of #4 and #2 and mark it #5.

8. From #5 project a perpendicular line downward.
9. #5 to #6 = measure 4 ½ inches downward and mark it #6
10. #5 to #7 = measure ½ inch sideward and mark it #7
11. #5 to #8 = measure ½ inch sideward and mark it #8
12. Form the dart by connecting #7, #6 and #8
Rise
13. J to #9 = measure ¼ inch downward then draw a broken line

outward
14. #9 to #10 = measure 1 inch inward and mark it #10
15. I to #11 = measure 1 inch outward and mark it #11
16. #11 to #12 = measure ¼ inch downward and mark it #12
17. Connect point #2 and H with a straight line.
18. Shape crotch connecting points M, #10, #9 and #12 with a round
curve line.
Hemline
19. R to #13 = measure ¾ - 1 inch outward and mark it #13

20. R1 to 13a = measure ¾ - 1 inch outward and mark it # 13a
21. F to #14 = measure ¾ -1 inch outward
22. Connect points #4 and #14 with a curve line.
23. Connect #12 to 13a with a curve line.
24. Connect #14 and #13 with a straight line.
To Separate the Front and Back Pattern
1. Trace the front pattern. Follow the connecting points O, L, M, J, Q1, R1,
R, Q, F and O.
2. Transfer the grain or pressing line
3. Cut the front pattern and label it “FRONT”
4. Trace the back pattern from point #4, #14, #13,#13a, #12, #9, #10, M,
#2, and #4.
5. Trace the dart lines from points #7, #6 and #8
6. Transfer grain or pressing line.
7. Cut the back pattern and label it “BACK”.
To Draft the Pants’ Slide Side Pocket
Pocket is an essential part of a pair of long pants. It is both

functional and decorative in purpose. Here is one way of drafting a pocket
for long pants.
1. Trace front pant pattern at least 3 inches below crotch.

2. Project point P perpendicularly to the waist and mark it V.
3. V to V1 = measure 12” downward.
4. Project point V1 perpendicularly to side and mark it W.
5. O to X = measure 1 ½ “ and mark it X
6. O to Y = measure 6” and mark it Y
7. Connect points X and Y with straight line.
8. Y to Z = measure 1 1/2 “ and mark it Z.
9. Shape pouch edge by blending a curve line from Z to V1.
To Transfer Pocket to a Separate Pattern Paper
1. Prepare a pattern paper with this

measurement. Fold this into half.
Width: 16 inches (40.6 cm)
Length:14 inches (35.6 cm.)
2. Place the pattern paper under the front parts
pattern with the folded side in line with points V
and V1.
3. Trace the pocket pattern following points O,X, Z at V1.

Transfer points X and Y.
4. Cut pocket pattern following points V, O, Y, Z to V1
The Placket
A placket is a finished opening in a garment. On men’s pants, the

most common placket is the zipper closure. Plackets are also used as a
decorative or functional opening.
To Draft Zipper Placket Facings
1. Prepare the front pattern.

2. Measure line L to M..
3. Add 1 ½ inches to the measured length
4. In a piece of paper, increase 3 inches and length equivalent to line LM
plus 1 ½ inches.
5. Mark the center of the pattern to indicate following line.
The Waistband
There are two kinds of waistband: the simple straight waistband

which is commonly used on trousers, and a shape or complex waistband
which fits over the hip contour. The simple waistband may be drafted using
the basic skirt and pants pattern.
To Draft a Simple Waistband Pattern
1. Prepare a piece of pattern paper with this measurement:

Width: 20 inches (50.8 cm)
2. From the bottom, measure 1 inch (25 cm.) and mark it A.
3. A to B = measure ½ waist circumference and mark it B
4. B to C = measure 2 inches (5.1 cm) allowance for the fastener (men’s
hook and eye or button)
5. AD = measure 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) and mark it D
6. CE = measure 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) and mark it E
7. DF = measure 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) and mark it F
8. EG = measure 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) and mark it G
9. Connect points F and G with a straight line.
10. Indicate a folding line connecting point D and E.
11. Connect point A-C and G-C with a straight line.
Note: A waistband can be drafted in full size or in two pieces if the

waistband is planned to be joined at the back. This can be an advantage for
an easier adjustment on waistband if needed.
LET US REMEMBER
It is very practical and fun to draft polo shirt as well as long

and short pants pattern. The steps are simple, and no great skill is
needed. To learn, to evaluate and to perfect your pattern, you will
find it well worth the trouble. Once you have a good basic pattern,
you can learn to change its styles for popular trends while retaining
all the personal fit factors.
Answer the following questions briefly:
1. Why do we have to know the different body points and lines of men’s
figure?
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2. How should we crotch measurement?

_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
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_________________________________________________________________
3. How do we use L-Square effectively in drafting patterns?

_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
LET US APPLY WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNED
Individual Performance
Perform pattern drafting using the given measurements for each

men’s apparel.
Task 1 Regular Polo Shirt
Shoulder 17 inches (43.2 cm.)

Length of Polo 27 inches (68.6 cm.)
Chest 34 inches (86.4 cm.)
Neck Measurement 15 inches (38.1 cm.)
Task 2 Men’s Basic Long Pants
Waist 28 inches (71.1 cm.)

Hips 36 inches (91.4 cm.)
Length of Long Pants 38 inches (96.5 cm.)
Knee circumference 19 inches (48.3 cm.)
Ankle circumference 17 inches (43.2 cm.)
Crotch/Rise 10 inches (25.4 cm.)
Task 3 Short Pants

Waist 28 inches (71.1 cm.)
Hips 36 inches (91.4 cm.)
Length of Short Pants 20 inches (50.8 cm.)
Bottom Circumference 22 inches (55.9 cm.)
Crotch/Rise 10 inches (25.4 cm.)
Scoring Rubrics for drafted Patterns
Task 1 Men’s Regular Polo shirt.
Opposite each item is the corresponding point. Check your drafted

pattern against the criteria given.
A. Process (50%) Corresponding
Points
Measure the following:
1. 3 1/2 inches (Facing) 1
2. Ia to IIa - ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) 2
3. Ib to IIb - ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) 2
4. II a to A - 2 inches (5.1 cm.) 1
5. A to B - ½ shoulder measurement 3
6. B to C - ½ inch (1.3 cm.) 2
7. A to D - 3 inches (7.6 cm.) 2
8. D to F - 1 inch (2.54 cm.) 2
9. A to G - 1 ¼ inches (3.2 cm.) 2
10. A to H - ¼ inch (0.6 cm.) 1
11. H to I - 3 inches (7.6 cm) 2
12. I to J - ½ shoulder measurement 3
13. J to K - ½ inch (1.3 cm.) 2
14. K to L - equal to E-C 3
15. M to N - 1 ¼ inches (3.2 cm.) 2
16. O to P - ¼ chest measurement 3
17. P to Q - 1 ½ inches(3.8 cm.) 2
18. R to R - 1 ¼ inches (3.2 cm.) 2
19. S - midpoint of J and R 2
20. R to T 1 inch (2.5 cm.) 2
21. U - midpoint of U and T 2
22. V to W - ¼ chest measurement 3
23. W to X - 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) 2
24. V to Y - 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) 2
Total 50
B. Product (30%)
1. Curved lines were smoothly drawn. 6
2. Perpendicular lines were projected perfectly. 6
3. Unnecessary marks were erased neatly. 6
4. Pattern were labeled clearly and properly. 6
5. Pattern was neatly drafted. 6
Total 30
C. Work Habits (20%)

1. Manipulated drafting tools properly. 5
2. Observed economy in the use of materials. 5
3. Maintained clean working area. 5
4. Worked on the target time. 5
Total 20
Evaluation Checklist for Drafted Collar Pattern
Sports Collar

Points
1. A to B = ½ neck measurement 10
2. A to C = 2 inches (5.1 cm.) 10
3. B to D = 2 inches (5.1 cm) 10
4. D to E = ½ inches (1.3 cm.) 10
5. B to F = ½ inch (1.3 cm.) 10
Total 50
B. Product (30%)
1. Curved lines were smoothly drawn 6
2. Perpendicular lines were projected perfectly 6
3. Unnecessary marks were erased neatly 6
4. Pattern were labeled clearly and properly 6
5. Pattern was neatly drafted 6
Total 30
1. Manipulated drafting tools properly 5
2. Observed economy in the use of materials 5
3. Maintained clean working area 5
4. Worked on the target time 5
Total 20
RESOURCES:
Tools
 L-square
 Hip Curve
 Tape Measure
 Triangle
 French Curve
 Scissors
 Ruler
Supplies
 Pattern paper
 Bond paper
 Pencil/eraser
Materials
 Textbooks
Equipment
 Cutting table
 Model form
REFERENCES:

1988.
Economics First Year). Manila, Philippines. Saint Bernadette
Del Rosario, Marissa and Constancia Del Rosario. Clothing and Textiles III
& IV. Manila, Philippines. Philippine Book Company. 1986.
Francisco, Chic R. Rudiments of Simplified Pattern making of Men’s
Wear. Manila, Philippines. Golden Ideas Publishing House, Inc., 2006.
School
LESSON 4
MANIPULATING AND CUTTING PATTERN
The lesson deals with manipulation of block pattern, draft, label and
cut final patterns in accordance with the client’s specifications and
operating procedures.
1. draft block patterns of a men’s regular polo shirt, long pants and
short pants and
2. label and cut final patterns of selected men’s apparel.
LET US STUDY
Words to study
Manipulate – to manage or use skillfully a given tool or

material
Cut – the process of separating pieces using appropriate
cutting tools
Seam allowance – the distance between the seam line and
cutting line
Cutting line – a heavy solid line in a final/blocked pattern
that indicates where the pattern is exactly to be cut
Grain line – the line with arrowheads on both ends
indicated in the final pattern directing on what grain the
pattern is to be laid out on the cloth
.
Drafting the Final Patterns
One interesting part of pattern drafting is developing its final pattern.

Final pattern will be indicated with the needed symbols that will guide the
dressmaker/tailor during the layouting of the pattern on the material. Some
of the symbols that can be seen on a finished pattern are the following:
Pattern Symbol Description How to use
Grainline – heavy solid Place pattern piece on

= line with arrows at each fabric with arrow
end parallel to selvage.
Button and buttonhole Mark position where it

placement - solid lines should be indicated
that indicate length of
buttonhole
Dart - broken line Mark, fold along center
forming a “V” shape, line and carefully
usually at hipline , bust match lines and dots.
line Stitch to a point.
Seamline - long Refer to specific seam

broken line, usually allowances
5/8” (1.5 cm)
inside cutting line.
Hem - hem allowance Turn hem up to the
is printed on the cutting specified amount,
line. adjusting as necessary.
Cutting Line - heavy Cut exactly on this line

solid line along outer when making the final
edge of pattern. May pattern.
also designate a cut-off
line for a certain view.
Before you can make a final pattern or drafted block patterns, you
should check some items so that troubles during fitting can be avoided.
Remember the guidelines for specific drafted patterns. Let’s make a
comparison and final checking of your block patterns.
For Regular Polo Shirt
 The front polo has a deeper neckline than the back.

 The front armhole has a deeper curve than the back.
 The center front is longer than the back.
 Sides of the polo are of the same length.
 Chest measurement are of the same width.
For Long and Short Pants
 Waist of back pattern is wider than the front pants.

 Crotch of back pattern is deeper than the back.
 Crotch line of the back is wider than the front.
 Knee line is of the same level or length.
 Front and back pants length are of the same measurement.
 Bottom or hem of the back is wider than the frontpart.
 Dart is correctly located on the waistline.
After checking all of these major parts of the pattern, you can now
proceed in making the final pattern. Look at how final pattern can be done
accurately.
You must prepare the following tools and material before starting this
interesting activity.
Supplies and Materials
 Pattern paper
 Pencil and eraser
Measuring and Shaping Devices
 L- square
 French curve
 Hip curve
 Triangle or ruler
Regular Polo Shirt
Steps
Provide necessary seam allowances. Use the given measurements below:
Facing 3 ½ inches ( 8.9 cm )

Neckline seam ½ inch ( 1.3 cm )
Shoulder seam ½ inch ( 1.3 )
Hemline 1 ½ inches ( 3.8 cm )
Side seam ½ inch ( 1.3 cm )
Note : Fold facing towards the body before reshaping the neckline
and the hemline seam allowances.
SLEEVE
Prepare a piece of
pattern paper. Apply the
following seam allowances:
Armscye ½ inch ( 1.3 cm)

Sides ½” inch (1.3 cm)
Hemline 1 ½ inch ( 4 cm )
COLLAR
Measure ½ inch (1.3 cm ) on sides of neckline. Be sure to shape the

neckline smoothly.
LONG PANTS
Waistline ½ inch ( 1.3 cm.)

Crotch ½ inch ( 1.3 cm. )
Inseam ¾ inch ( 2 cm. )
Hemline 1 ½ inches ( 4 cm )
Outseam 1 inch ( 2.54 cm. )
SHORT PANTS
Waistline ½ inch ( 1.3 cm.)

Crotch ½ inch ( 1.3 cm. )
Inseam ¾ inch ( 2 cm. )
Hemline 1 ½ inches ( 4 cm )
Outseam 1 inch ( 2.54 cm
POCKET
Waist ½ inch (1.3 cm. )

Sides ¼ inch ( 0.6 cm. )
Pouch hem ½ inch (1.3 cm. )
Pocket lips ¼ inch ( 0.6 cm )
Note: Pocket must be cut into two pieces when laid/put into the fabric.
PLACKET FACINGS
Seam allowances are already included in the

drafted pattern.
Note: Check all patterns if correct and

complete patterns symbols were indicated.
Cutting the Final Patterns
When all patterns were drafted and re-adjusted based on the corrections
made in the previous tasks, few adjustments may be applied on it.
1. Interpret pattern symbols indicated on each pattern piece. Apply

/recall your knowledge on the different symbols used on final patterns
2. Use appropriate cutting tool. It must be sharp enough to cut edges
and curves smoothly. Avoid using shears intended for fabrics, it may
make the blades dull.
3. Cut exactly on the seam allowances. Do not try to increase or
decrease it so that problems will be prevented during garment
construction. This also facilitates an easier and exact placement of
patterns when planning for layouting.
4. To cut curved areas smoothly, like pockets, armholes and crotch,
slowly use the tip of the scissors without lifting the pattern. This
cutting stroke is also applied during the cutting of fabrics.
5. For patterns that need to be prepared in double such as pockets,
collar and sleeves, have a ready pattern to plan the layout easily . This
is an advantage when the fabric is limited for specific projects but be
sure to make its identical pieces .
LET US REMEMBER
The secret of a well-fitted garment depends oh how patterns are

manipulated. Enjoy doing this task as if you are always making your own.
Practice the best method, and use the best tools consistently until you acquire
the needed skills in this craft.
Answer the following questions briefly.
1. How are measuring tools used effectively? Explain it in your own idea.
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_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
2. How are pattern symbols included in the final patterns? Cite an

example.
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_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
3. How do we develop final patterns from a basic pattern?
_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
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TASK 1
Exchange your drafted block patterns with a classmate. Look for any
corrections that should be done before they make the final patterns. Copy
the following items in the checklist and put a check mark if they have
followed the guidelines given below. Items that are not correctly done must
be given remarks for easier corrections. Items that are incorrect must be
given remarks opposite for re-adjusting measurements.
Items to be evaluated Remarks
Regular Polo Shirt
1. The front polo has a deeper neckline the back.

2. The front armhole has a deeper curve than
the back.
3. The center front is longer than the back.
4. Sides of the polo are of the same length.
5. Chest measurement are of the same width.
Long Pants
1. Waist of back pattern is wider than the front

pants.
2. Crotch of back pattern is deeper than the
back.
3. Crotch line of the back is wider than the front.
4. Knee line is of the same level or length.
5. Front and back pants length are of the same
measurement.
6. Bottom or hem of the back is wider than the
front part.
7. Dart is correctly located on the waistline.
Short Pants
1. Waist of back pattern is wider than the front

pants.
2. Crotch of back pattern is deeper than the
back.
3. Crotch line of the back is wider than the front.
4. Knee line is of the same level or length.
5. Front and back pants length are of the same
measurement.
6. Bottom or hem of the back is wider than the
front part.
7. Dart is correctly located on the waistline.
Note: This evaluation is not a test but a basis in developing your final
patterns.
PERFORMANCE TEST
From the evaluation done in your patterns previously, be able to

develop the final patterns of the following :
 Polo shirt
Front part
Back part
Sleeve pattern
Collar
 Long Pants / short pants
Front part
Back part
Pocket
Placket facings
Scoring Rubrics for Drafted Patterns
Task 1 Men’s Regular Polo shirt.
Opposite each item is the corresponding points. Check your drafted

pattern against the criteria given.

points
1. 3 1/2 inches (Facing) 1
2. Ia to IIa - ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) 2
3. Ib to Iib - ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) 2
4. II a to A - 2 inches (5.1 cm.) 1
5. A to B - ½ shoulder 3
measurement
6. B to C - ½ inch (1.3 cm.) 2
7. A to D - 3 inches (7.6 cm.) 2
8. D to F - 1 inch (2.54 cm.) 2
9. A to G - 1 ¼ inches (3.2 cm.) 2
10. A to H - ¼ inch (0.6 cm.) 1
11. H to I - 3 inches (7.6 cm) 2
12. I to J - ½ shoulder 3
measurement
13. J to K - ½ inch (1.3 cm.) 2
14. K to L - equal to E-C 3
15. M to N - 1 ¼ inches (3.2 cm.) 2
16. O to P - ¼ chest measurement 3
17. P to Q - 1 ½ inches(3.8 cm.) 2
18. R to R - 1 ¼ inches (3.2 cm.) 2
19. S - midpoint of J and R 2
20. R to T 1 inch (2.5 cm.) 2
21. U - midpoint of U and T 2
22. V to W - ¼ chest 3
measurement
23. W to X - 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) 2
24. V to Y - 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) 2
50
Total
B. Product (30%)
30
Total
20
Total 100%
Evaluation Checklist for Drafted Collar Pattern
Sports Collar

points
6. A to B = ½ neck measurement 10
7. A to C = 2 inches (5.1 cm.) 10
8. B to D = 2 inches (5.1 cm) 10
9. D to E = ½ inches (1.3 cm.) 10
10. B to F = ½ inch (1.3 cm.) 10
Total 50
B. Product (30%)
Total 30
8. Worked on the target time . 5
20
Total 100%
Score Sheet for Drafted Sleeve

points
1. A to B - desired length of the 2
sleeve
2. A to C - ⅛ chest measurement 3
3. A to D - ½ of front cap width of 3
sleeve
4. D to E - ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) 2
5. F - midpoint of A – E 3
6. G - midpoint of A – F 3
7. G to H -½ inch (1.3 cm.) 3
8. I - midpoint of E – F 3
9. I to J - ½ inch (1.3 cm.) 2
10. A to K - ½ inch of the back
width 3
11. K to L - ¼ inch (.6 cm.) 3
12. M to N - ½ inch (1.3 cm.) 3
13. O - midpoint of A – M 3
14. O to P - ⅝ inch (1.5 cm.) 3
15. Q - midpoint of M – L 3
16. R to S - ¼ inch (.6 cm) 3
17. A to B1 - desired length for
short sleeve 2
18. B1 to T1 - ½ inch (.6 cm.) 2
19. B1 to T2 - ½ inch (.6 cm.) 1
Total 50
B. Product (30%)
30
Total
20
Total 100%
Score Sheet for Drafted Sports Notched Collar

points
1. A to B - neck measurement 1
2. A to C - 2 inches (5.1 cm.) 2
3. B to D - 2 inches (5.1 cm.) 2
4. B to D - ½ inch (1.3 cm.) 1
5. B to F - ½ inch (1.3 cm.) 2
Total 5
B. Product (30%)
1. Curved lines were smoothly drawn 6
2. Perpendicular lines were projected perfectly 6
3. Unnecessary marks were erased neatly 6
4. Pattern were labeled clearly and properly 6
5. Pattern was neatly drafted 6
30
Total
1. Manipulated drafting tools properly 5
2. Observed economy in the use of materials 5
3. Maintained clean working area 5
4. Worked on the target time 5
20
Total 100%
Score sheet for drafted Executive Collar

points
Collar Stand
1. A to B - ½ inch back neck
measurement 5
plus ¾ inch (1.9 cm.)
2. B to C - ½ inch neck measurement 5
plus ¾ inch 5
3. A to D - 1 ¼ inches (3.1 cm.) 5
4. D to E - ½ back neck measurement 5
5. E to F - ½ inch front neck measurement 5
6. C to G - ¾ inch upward (1.9 cm.) 3
7. F to H - ¾ inch upward (1.9 cm.) 3
8. H to I - ¾ inch upward (1.9 cm.)
Collar Fall 2
9. D to J - 1 ½ inches upward 2
10. J to K - ½ inch neck measure 3
11. K to L - ½ front neck measure 3
12. J to M - 1 ½ inches (6.3 cm.) 2
13. L to O - ¼ inch (.6 cm.) 2
14. N to P - ½ inch (1.25 cm.) _____
50
Total
B. Product (30%)
_____
Total 30
_____
Total 20
100%
Score Sheet for Drafted Long Pants - Front

points
1. A to B - 1 ½ inches upward 3
2. A to C - crotch or rise length 3
3. A to D - length of pants 3
4. D to E - 2 inches downward (5.1 cm.) 3
5. C to F - 4 inches 3
6. F to H - ¼ hip circumference 3
7. H to I - 1/6 part of the hip circumference 3
8. I to J - ½ inch (1.3 cm.) 3
9. H to M - 2 ½ inches (6.4 cm.) 3
10. K to L - ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) 3
11. L to N - ¼ inch waist circumference 3
12. L to O - ¼ waist circumference 3
13. P - midpoint of F – I 3
14. Q - midpoint of C and D 3
15. S to S1 - ¼ knee circumference 2
16. S to S2 - ¼ knee circumference 2
17. P to T - ¼ ankle circumference 2
1 1
18. P1to P 2 - ¼ ankle circumference 2
50
Total
B. Product (30%)
30
Total
20
Total 100%
Score Sheet for Drafted Long Pants – Back

points
1. L to #1 - 1 ½ inches (4 cm.) 3
2. #1 to #2 - 1 ½ inches (4 cm.) 3
3. #2 to #3 - ¼ inch waist circumference 3
4. #3 to #4 - 1 ¾ inches ( ) outward 3
5. #5 to #6 - 4 ½ inches ( ) downward 3
6. #5 to #7 - ½ inch ( ) 1.25 cm 3
7. #5 to #8 - ½ inch ( ) 1.25 cm 3
8. J to #9 - ¼ inch (.6 cm.) downward 3
9. #9 to #10 - 1 inch (2.5 cm.) outward 3
10. I to #11 - 1 inch (2.5 cm.) outward 3
11. #11 to #12 - 1 inch (2.5 cm.) downward 3
12. S to #13 - ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) downward 3
1
13. 2 S to 13a - ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) downward
1 inch (2.5 cm.)outward 3
14. 2 S to 13a - ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) downward 3

1 inch (2.5 cm.)outward
15. 1 U to #14 - ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) downward 3
1 inch (2.5 cm.)outward
16. 2 U to #14a - ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) downward
17. F to #15 - ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) downward
____________
Total 50
B. Product (30%)
30
Total
20
Total 100%
Score Sheet for Drafted Short Pants - Front

points
1. A to B - 1 ½ inches upward 4
2. A to C - crotch or rise length 4
3. A to D - length of pants 4
4. D to E - 2 inches downward(5.1cm.) 4
5. C to F - 4 inches (10.2 cm.) 4
6. F to H - ¼ hip circumference 3
7. H to I - 1/6 part of the hip circumference 3
8. I to J - ½ inch (1.3 cm.) 3
9. H to M - 2 ½ inches (6.4 cm.) 3
10. K to L - ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) 3
11. L to N - ¼ inch (waist circumference 3
12. L to O - ¼ waist circumference 3
13. P - midpoint of F – I 3
14. P1to Q - ¼ inch (.6 cm.) bottom
circumference 3
15. P1to Q1 - ¼ inch (.6 cm.) bottom
circumference 3
Total 50
B. Product (30%)
4. Patterns were labeled clearly and properly. 6
5. Patterns was neatly drafted. 6
30
Total
20
Total 100%
Score Sheet for Drafted Short Pants - Back

points
1. L to #1 - 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) 4
2. #1 to #2 - 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) 4
3. #2 to #3 - ¼ waist circumference 4
4. #3 to #4 - 1 inch (2.54cm.) 4
5. #5 to #6 - 4 ½ inches (11.5 cm.) 4
6. #5 to #7 - ½ inch (1.3 cm.) 4
7. #5 to #8 - ½ inch (1.3 cm.) 4
8. J to #9 - ¼ inch (.6cm.) 4
9. #9 to #10 - 1 inch (2.54cm.) 3
10. I to #11 - 1 inch (2.54cm.) 3
11. #11 to #12 - ¼ inch (.6cm.) 3
12. R to #13 - ¾ inch (1 cm.) 3
13. 1 R to 13a - ¾ inch (1 cm.) 3
14. F to #14 - ¾ inch (1 cm.) 3
_______
Total
50
B. Product (30%)
1. Curve lines were smoothly drawn. 6
4. Patterns were labeled clearly and properly. 6
5. Patterns were neatly drafted. 6
Total 30
1. Manipulated drafting tools. 5
4. Worked on time target. 5
Total 20
SCORING RUBRICS FOR DRAFTED FINAL PATTERNS
Items to be Evaluated Score

A. Process and Product (80%)
1. Allowances were provided accurately 20 %

2. Lines were clearly drawn 10 %
3. Curves were smoothly shaped 10 %
4. Pattern symbols were correctly indicated in each pattern 10 %
5. Darts and buttonhole locations were correctly and neatly 10 %
transferred
6. Pattern edges were smoothly cut and shaped 10 %
7. Unnecessary marks were neatly erased 10%
B. Work Habits (20%)

1. Manipulated drafting tools properly 5%
2. Observed economy in the use of materials 5%
3. Maintained clean working area 5%
4. Worked on the target time 5%
Total 100 %
RESOURCES:
Tools
 L-square
 Hip Curve
 Tape Measure
 Triangle
 Meter stick
 Scissors
Supplies
 Pattern paper
 Bond paper
 Pencil
 Eraser
Materials
 Textbooks
Equipment
 Cutting table
 Model form
REFERENCES:
.Complete Guide to Sewing. Reader’s Digest. U.S.A. The Reader’s Digest

Economics (First Year). Manila, Philippines. Saint Bernadette
Del Rosario, Marissa and Constancia Del Rosario. Clothing and Textiles III
& IV. Manila, Philippines. Philippine Book Company. 1986.
Francisco, Chic R. Rudiments of Simplified Pattern Making of Men’s
Wear. Manila, Philippines. Golden Ideas Publishing House, Inc., 2006.
School
Post- test
Let us see how much have you learned from this module. Select your
answer from the given options on each item. Write your answers in your
quiz notebook.
1. In cutting patterns, which line should be cut?

a. dart line
b. neckline
c. pressing line
d. seam allowance
2.What is the characteristic of the armhole of a front polo shirt?
a. deeper than the back
b. longer than the back
c. shallow than the back
d. shorter than the back
3. How is pressing line symbol placed in the block or final pattern?
a. along the lengthwise grain
b. on the crosswise
c. 45◦ on the pattern
d. any of the above
4. Which pattern symbol is used to indicate center lines, end of seam lines,
and is cut with the tip of the scissor?
a. bias grain
b. crosswise Grain Bias grain
c. dart
d. Lengthwise grain
5. Which part of the sleeve is set to the armhole of a polo shirt?
a. armscye
b. hem
c. sides
d. any of the above
6. Which of the following is not a part of short pants?
a. cuff
b. collar
c. placket
d. pocket
7. Which CAN NOT be applied on men’s polo shirt?
a. Chinese collar
b. executive collar
c. notched sports collar
d. continuous collar
8. What should be done to the overlap or button lap if the neckline of a polo
shirt pattern is shaped?
a. folded only half of the facing
b. folded whole facing towards the bodice
c. shaped it without folding facing
d. any of the above
9. Where should the end of the tape measure be placed when you measure
the front neck line?
a. center front neckline
b. half of neckline
c. one inch from center line
d. one-third of neckline
10. What part of the waist circumference will be laid out in front of the
pants’ pattern?
a. ¼ of the waist circumference
b. ½ of the waist circumference
c. ¾ of the waist circumference
d. any of the above
11. Which point of the body is located 4 inches (10.2 cm.) below shoulder tip
point?
a. chest point
b. elbow point
c. knee point
d. shoulder neck point
12. When a tape measure is placed across the shoulder tip points, the item
measured is ________________.
a. chest
b. crotch or rise
c. shoulder
d. waist
13. What measurement is taken from the nape(at the back of the neck)
down to the desired length?
a. length long pants
b. length of shirt
c. length of sleeve
d. length of short pants
14. In order to locate waistline in taking body measurements, what should
be done first?
a. Let the client point to his/t her waist
b Put a piece of tape or adhesive on the waist of the client
c. Tie a string on the waistline of the client
d. any of the above
15. Where do you start to measure in order to take an accurate length of
long sleeves?
a from shoulder tip point passing elbow to the wrist
b. from the shoulder tip point passing halfway bent elbow to the
wrist
c from shoulder tip point passing full bent elbow to the wrist
d. any of the above
16. What factor in garment planning do we consider to suit the client daily
lifestyle?
a. personal needs
b. resources
c. time and even
d any of the above
17. Which characteristic refers to the smoothness or dullness of a fabric?
a. color
b. hue
c. intensity
d. texture
18. How are cotton fabrics different from rayon and polyester?
a. they are lustrous
b. they are resilient
c. they are shrink-resistant
d. they are stronger when wet
19. Which devices are used in drafting patterns accurately?
a. cutting tools
b. measuring/shaping tools
c. pressing tools
d. sewing tools
20. Which tool is best in shaping slight curves of the pattern?
a. french curve
b. hip curve
c. L-square
d. triangle
Key to Correction
Pre – test Post – test
1. a 11. a 1. c 11. a
2. d 12. d 2. d 12. c
3. d 13. b 3. b 13. b
4. b 14. a 4. c 14. c
5. b 15. a 5. c 15. b
6. a 16. c 6. a 16. a
7. c 17. d 7. d 17. d
8. b 18. b 8. b 18. d
9. c 19. c 9. a 19. b
10. b 20. c 10. a 20. b
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Module 1. Draft and Cut Pattern for Men’s Casual Apparel

Pretest.......................................................................................................................1
Learning Outcome 1. Plan Garment Design............................................................4
Let Us Study............................................................................................................4
 Factors to Consider in Planning a Garment.................................................4
 Fabric Selection for Men’s Apparel.............................................................5
 A-Z Guide to Fabrics on Men’s Apparel.....................................................7
 Sewing Record for Men’s Apparel............................................................10
How Much Have You Learned?............................................................................11
Let Us Apply What You Have Learned.................................................................11
Learning Outcome 2. Taking Client’s Body Measurements

Let Us Study..........................................................................................................14
 Measuring and Shaping Devices and their Uses........................................16
 Characteristics of a Longer Arm L- Square.............................................. 18
 Personal Measurement Record..................................................................19
 Body Point and Lines.................................................................................21
 How to Measure for Men’s Apparel..........................................................21
 Points to Remember in Taking Body Measurements................................22
 Men’s Standard Measurements..................................................................23
 How Much Have You Learned?................................................................24
Learning Outcome 3. Drafting Basic or Block Pattern For Men’s Apparel

Let Us Study..........................................................................................................28
 Preparing to Make Men’s Polo Shirt.........................................................28
 Project Plan for Men’s Regular Polo Shirt................................................29
 Drafting the Front and Back of Men’s Polo Shirt......................................30
 The Collar..................................................................................................33
 The Sleeve..................................................................................................36
 Preparing to Make a Long Pants................................................................38
 Project Plan for Long Pants with Slide Side Pockets................................39
 Drafting the Pattern for Men’s Long Pants................................................40
 Project Plan for a Pair of Short Pants with Pockets...................................45
 To Draft the Pants’ Slide Side Pockets......................................................50
 The Placket.................................................................................................52
 The Waistband...........................................................................................53
Learning Outcome 4. Manipulating and Cutting Pattern

Let Us Study..........................................................................................................60
 Drafting the Final Patterns ........................................................................61
 Pattern Symbols.........................................................................................63
 Regular Polo Shirt......................................................................................63
 Collar..........................................................................................................64
 Long Pants.................................................................................................64
 Short Pants.................................................................................................65
 Pocket.........................................................................................................65
 Placket Facings..........................................................................................66
 Cutting the Final Pattern............................................................................66
Post Test.................................................................................................................80
Key to Correction...................................................................................................83
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
The Department of Education wishes to extend thanks and

appreciation to the representatives of the different Secondary Technical-
Vocational Schools who shared their expertise in developing the
Competency-Based Curriculum (CBC) and Competency Learning Matrix
(CLM) on February 25-29, 2008 and Competency-Based Learning Materials
(CBLM) on April 14-19, 2008, refinement and packaging of CBLM on May 5-
10, 2008 and final repackaging on May 23-25, 2008 at the Development
Academy of the Philippines, Tagaytay City and the final refinement of CBC-
CLM-CBLM at the Marikina Hotel, Marikina City on April 20-25, 2009.
This learning material was developed, enhanced and refined by the

following personnel:
Writeshop on the Development of CBC-CLM
Writers:
 ELORJEN VILLAMAYOR
M. S. Enverga Memorial College of Arts and Trades
 LORENA GENITO
Zamboanga Del Sur School of Arts and Trades
 PURIFICACION RAZON
Don Alejandro Sr. Science and Technology High School
 ROSSANA I. SAGUID
Tanza National High School
 LUZ AGBULUS
Zamboanga del Sur School of Arts and Trades
 JULIE ANNIE M. PESTAÑO

General Mariano Alvarez Technical High School
 ANNABELLE R. DE LEON
Tanza National Trade School
 MARIA M. DEL MUNDO

E. Rodriguez Vocational High School
 PRESCILLA RAYOS
Community Vocational High School
Encoder:
 MYRNA COVILLA
Consultant:
 ROSITA CREDO
TVE Consultant
Writeshop on the Finalization, Packaging and Repackaging of CBC-

CLM-CBLM
 ALVA NALDOZA
General Santos City
 ESTRELINA PALALON
Glan School of Arts and Trades
 FRANCISCA BUMANGLAG
Jones Rural School
 JULIE ANNIE M. PESTAÑO

General Mariano Alvarez Technical High School

Writeshop on the Refinement and Enrichment of CBC-CLM-CBLM of

Arts and Trades Specializations
TVE Writers:
Teacher III
Paradahan I, Tanza, Cavite
Region IV-A
Teacher III
Nagtahan, Sampaloc, Manila
NCR
 MARIA VICTORIA M. FERNANDO
Teacher III
Pangasinan School of Arts and Trades
Lingayen, Pangasinan
Region I
 NIMFA O. MARMOL
Teacher I
Muntinlupa Business High School
Muntinlupa City
NCR
 DR. MILAGROS M. TORRES

Master Teacher I
Sanchez Mira School of Arts and Trades
Sanchez Mira, Cagayan
Region 02
Academic Writers:
English
 NOVELINE C. TACATA
Teacher III/English Coordinator
Cabarroguis National School of Arts and Trades
Cabarroguis, Quirino
Region 02
 SCHUBERT ANTHONY C. SIALONGO

Master Teacher I
General Leandro Fullon National High School
Hamtic, Antique
Region VI
Science
 DR. CECILIA B. CASTILLO

Head Teacher VI
Siniloan National High School
Siniloan, Laguna
Region IV-A
 TEZA LORRAINE A. MARCOS

Teacher I
AFG Bernardino Memorial Trade School
Marilao, Bulacan
Region III
 EVELYN P. CHAVEZ
Teacher I
Pedro E. Diaz High School
U.P. Side Subdivision, Alabang, Muntinlupa
NCR
Encoders:
 MIA LORAINE MANUEL

Fairview, Quezon City
Editors:
 ANA LIZA C. CANILANG

Teacher I
Pedro E. Diaz High School
U.P. Side Subdivision, Alabang, Muntinlupa
NCR
Facilitator:
 AIDA T. GALURA
Vocational Secondary Administrator II
Angeles City National Trade School
Angeles City
Region III

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Republic of the Philippines

Unit of Competency: Draft and Cut Patterns for Men’s

QUALIFICATION TITLE : GARMENTS NC II

UNIT OF COMPETINCY : DRAFT AND CUT PATTERN FOR MEN’S

MODULE TITLE : DRAFTING AND CUTTING PATTERN

NOMINAL DURATION : 125 HOURS

This module covers the knowledge, skills, and attitudes required in

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?

At the end of this module, you should be able to:

WHAT DO YOU ALREADY KNOW?

1. What factor in garment planning is considered to suit one’s daily

PLANNING GARMENT DESIGN

WHAT IS THIS LESSON ABOUT?

The lesson deals with the preparation of garments design, selection

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?

At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

Plan – a scheme or method of doing a plan or design.

Lifestyle – a way of living.

Well-planned wardrobe offers the assurance of making the desired

Factors to Consider in Planning a Garment Design

This factor affects the planning stage of the garment where

Questions often asked by the client to the designer:

 What appropriate design will fit me?

Garment planning is very important to know how much time

Questions that a designer could ask to his client:

 What garment must be worn in a certain occasion?

After evaluating the individuality of your client, his needs and

Fabric Selection for Men’s Apparel

Checkered Plaids Stripes

Another aspect in the selection of fabric is the quality. This refers

Fiber Characteristics General Handling and Care

Survey Record for Men’s Apparel

Client’s Name:__________________________________ Date:______________

 Check the appropriate box

Pockets  patch  welt

Sleeve  short  long

Fit  Loose  Snug

Fabric  Soft  Polyester

Pockets  patch  welt

Length  short  long

Fit  Loose  Snug

Fabric  Soft  Denim

Today’s successful apparel designer has a philosophy of

Answer the questions below. Give examples to illustrate your ideas.

1. What are the factors affecting garment designs?

2. Why do we need to assess the individuality of a person when

LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Look for a male client outside your classroom. He may be a teacher or

Task 2 Garment Sketching

Design a wardrobe that will fit the assessed client’s specifications.

TASK 3 Enrichment Activity

Make an assessment of another client, a friend or a family member

 Check the appropriate box

Complete Guide to Sewing. Reader’s Digest. U.S.A. The Reader’s Digest

TAKING CLIENT’S BODY MEASUREMENTS

WHAT IS THIS LESSON ABOUT?

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?

At the end of the lesson you should be able to:

1. discuss and describe the measuring devices used in taking body

Measuring/Shaping Devices and Their Uses

Characteristic of the Longer Arm L-Square

B. The Hip Curve

Client’s Name:____________________ Date:

Name: ____________________________ Date:

Name : _____________ Year and Section : _