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Perfume: the essence of illusion

“Perfume” says sophia Grojsman of international flavors y fragrances, “is a promise in a
bottle.” We want to believe. We want to be prettier, richer, and happier than we ere.
Consider the names of the fragrances we buy: joy, Dolce vita, pleasure, white Diamonds,
beutifull. “ We sell hope, “said charles revson, founder of the revlon cosmetics company.

In terms of chemistry, fragrances are a mixture of aromatic oils and alcohol. The “fixatives,”
or oils, that make a fragrance last a long time, traditionally came from animals. Those have
mostly been replaced by synthetic chemicals. The other ingredients come from plants,
especially flowers.

The area around Grasse, france, is famous for growing flowers. Farmers like joseph mull
have been producing flowers-including roses, jasmine, and lavender- for centuries. Mul’s
“rose absolute,” the fragrant liquid he gets from his roses, sells for $3,650 a pound.
“picking roses are carefully collected by hand during the early morning. By ten o’clock, the
heat of the sun begins to affect the flowers, and the workers are done for the day.”Labor is
60 percent of the cost,”says Mul”.

The high cost of natural ingredients is just one of the reasons that perfumers today also
use artificial ingredients in their fragrances, in addition, synthetics allow perfumers to use
scent that cannot be gotten naturally; for example, the scent from the lilac flower. They
allow the rare or endangered flowers, and they save wild animals from being used for their
musk- a kind of fixative. According to perfumer Harry Fremont, “Good fragrance is a
balance between naturals and synthetics.”

Once perfumers have created a lovely fragrance, it’s time for the marketing department to
work its magic. The industry spends hundreds of millions of dollars each year to convince
people to buy something they don’t really need. The success rate for new perfumes is low-
only about one in ten is successful, so spending money on advertising is a big risk. It’s
also the only way to let the world know about a fragrance so enchanting that it can make
us believe our dreams will come true.