Professional Documents
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Extreme How-To 2008 05
Extreme How-To 2008 05
KIT-BUILT
LOG
HOMES
PLUS:
PLIERS
+ ADJUSTABLE
WRENCHES
BUILD A
May 2008
www.extremehowto.com
BRICK
GARDEN WALL
BUILDERS’ SHOW
May 2008
HIGHLIGHTS
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CONTENTS
May 200 8
60
34
70
F E AT U R E S
34 Kit-Built Log Homes
Here’s What to Consider Before you Build
50 Better Built-in
Converting a Closet to Cabinets
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CONTENTS
EVERY ISSUE
88 Advertisers Index
COLUMNS
10 Q & A
14 Tool School
Adjustable Pliers & Wrenches
26 Do-It-Yourself
Build a Brick Garden Wall
D E PA R T M E N T S
82 Everything Auto
Anti-Sway Bar Install
87 Hot Products
14
26
87
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W
Matt Weber
up, get out and go do something. For instance, I knew C O P Y E D I TO R
Tanya Thompson
a guy who had very little formal education, but once
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
built a ski boat by hand without using any plans, other than Monte Burch
Larry Walton
what he had in his head. When asked if it was seaworthy, he Chris Brandt
replied, “It’ll do.” So he named the boat, the Itldoo. He was an Tim Walton
PRESIDENT
years old when he decided to pursue another interest—flying. Trent R. Boozer
He joined the Flying X Glider Airplane Club and became a
EXECUTIVE VICE-PRESIDENT
licensed glider pilot. He loved the peace and quiet of the Chad Gillikin
silent glider soaring like an eagle, and EXECUTIVE VICE-PRESIDENT
Val Carrier
called his pastime “cloud jumping.”
SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT
His name is Carl “Buddy” Weber; Mark Gamble
he was my grandfather and the father
Extreme How-To is published by
of four sons and a daughter. He was LATITUDE3 MEDIA GROUP, LLC
married to my grandmother for 64 1111 Edenton Street
Birmingham, AL 35242
years. Sadly, he passed away at the Phone 205.949.1600 • Fax 205.949.1601
end of February at the age of 85. To www.extremehowto.com
me, he will always remain a true Extreme How-To (ISSN 1540-5346) is published and distributed
monthly to DIY home improvement enthusiasts by Latitude3
source of inspiration. Media Group, LLC, 1111 Edenton Street, Birmingham, AL 35242
(executive and editorial offices). All rights reserved. Neither this
publication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a
retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means,
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise,
without permission of Latitude3 Media Group, LLC.
Subscriptions: U.S. and possessions: 1 year (9 issues – $18.97);
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Send address changes to Extreme How-To P.O. Box 426, Mt. Morris,
IL 61054-0426. SUBSCRIBER SERVICE: To order a subscription
or change your address, write to Extreme How-To P.O. Box 426,
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ehtw@kable.com; or visit our Web site at www.extremehowto.com. To
order back issues, call (205) 949.1603.
QA Q:
& Got
a
? Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your Own
How-To Tip? Visit our website at www.extremehowto.com
and click on Home Repair Forum.
A: Not very. In fact, re-covering a chair seat with fabric is a fairly easy chore. First remove the old seat from
the frame. Cut a new piece of foam rubber to the same size as the chair seat. Then cut a square of
cotton batting roughly 4 inches larger than the seat in every direction. Cut the same size piece from the new
fabric that will cover the seat. To install, first center the foam over the batting on a table. Turn the chair upside-
down and place the top of the seat on top of the foam. Stretch the batting tightly over the edges of the seat
and staple it along the edges to the underside of the chair seat. Keep the corners neat and flat, and cut away
any excess batting. Then, with the chair turned upright, center the new fabric and repeat the stapling procedure
along the front, back and sides. Finish by cutting away excess fabric.
Q: I’m about to add new insulation to my attic. I read online that I should use some sort of heat shield
around the furnace and water heater flues. How do I make the heat shield?
A: A heat shield will help reduce air leaks and protect the insulation from high temperatures. The heat
shield is essentially aluminum flashing that is cut and bent to fit around the flue. Overlap two flat pieces
at the bottom. They should be cut flush to surround the circular base. Press the pieces into a bead of latex
caulk and staple them down. Then, form a round collar from the flashing and wrap it around the neck of the
flue. Make it a few inches taller than the depth of the insulation. Create a lip at the bottom and top of the collar
by cutting tabs and bending them inward or outward as needed, and staple it down.
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QA Q:
& Got
a
? Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your Own
How-To Tip? Visit our website at www.extremehowto.com
and click on Home Repair Forum.
A: You have some extra tiles laying around, right? If not, then you might get lucky finding a replacement
piece and matching grout at a tile store. Assuming you have a match, the first step is to remove the
damaged tile with a hammer and cold chisel. The trick is to start at the edges and work inward. The tile shards
will fly all over the place, so wear eye protection. Remove the old grout with a grout saw. Rotozip makes a spe-
cial bit for its spiral saw that makes this chore easier than the old hand-tool method. Scrape away the old tile
adhesive with a cold chisel so the new tile will lay flat. Use a notched trowel to generously apply thinset mortar
to the back of the new floor tile. Place the tile so the grout lines are even, and use a wood block and hammer
to gently tap it down so it’s flush with the floor. Wipe away extra mortar, and scrape the grout joints clean. After
the repair cures for 24 hours, apply grout as with normal tile installation.
A: A leaky outdoor faucet is probably due to a damaged washer. First step is to turn off the main water
supply and unscrew the handle of the faucet. Hold the faucet securely with pliers while using a wrench
to loosen the packing nut located behind the handle. With the nut removed, pull out the valve stem. Some
stems have to be turned so that a tongue lines up with a groove (if necessary, reattach the handle to turn the
stem). At the end of the stem, remove and replace the rubber washer and any rubber O-rings. EHT
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Visit us at the
2008 National Hardware Show
in Las Vegas
See the CreteSheetTM
in action at booth
#37237
tm
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TOOL SCHOOL
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TOOL SCHOOL
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TOOL SCHOOL
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TOOL SCHOOL
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TOOL SCHOOL
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DixSystems.com
YOU CAN DO IT!
Shampoo Shelves
Recessed Shampoo
and Soap Shelves
Bench Seats
• Waterproof System
Square Drains
• Multiple Options
and colors
Warmly Yours
The TempZone Radiant Heating System Under Tile and Stone is our system that has been
installed in thousands of homes. These homes now have the luxury of heated floors to keep
you warm even after stepping out of the shower. Mesh backed rolls, embedded in thinset
cement at the time floor installation is conducted. The product is ideal for Ceramic Tile , Stone and Hardwood floors . For heated
areas smaller than 150 square feet we recommend the 120V heating rolls; for areas over 150 feet we recommend the 240V heating
rolls. There is not heating efficiency differences between 120V and 240V.
YOU Pick Your Tile & Design. WE Protect You From Problems!
WE MAKE IT EASY — YOU CAN DO IT!
888.450.0112
www.DixSystems.com
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TOOL SCHOOL
The tool has a serrated nose from Jefferson Tool. Designed on flooring replacement jobs and
that bends, shapes and pulls specifically for pulling nails and trim carpentry upgrades, when I
wire, and it features U.S.-made other fasteners, the Extractor had a zillion finish nails to tear
tool steel and Klein’s Comfort creates a grip that won’t slip or out, and the quick rocking action
Grip curved handles. shear. The jaw and teeth always of the Extractor saved lots of
And last but not least is a keeps the minimum gripping time and labor. EHT
tool I’ve used on several remod- force required to prevent slip-
eling projects over the last two page so it can pull tiny pin-nails
years. It’s called the Extractor and staples. I’ve used this puller
TOOL SOURCES
Channellock Irwin LockJaw, LLC
1-800-724-3018 1-800-866-5796 (630) 293-7950
www.channellock.com www.irwin.com www.lockjawpliers.com
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DO IT YOURSELF
L
throw mortar and lay bricks, cut a some mortar with the trowel and
be built with a single number of bricks ahead of time. hold it upside down, the mortar
wythe—that is, with only should stick to the trowel for a
one horizontal row of bricks. But WORKING WITH MORTAR second or two.
such walls are not strong. You A professional mason can
can even push them over by throw a neat line of mortar at BUILDING A BRICK WALL
hand. Double-wythe brick walls just the right thickness with ease Before you start laying bricks,
are much stronger, though if they and speed. Don’t expect to equal make a story pole so you can
are more than 2 feet high, they that after a couple of hours of quickly measure bricks for the
may not be strong enough to act practice. But you can learn to correct height. Lay a number
as retaining walls. throw mortar well enough to of bricks with 3⁄8-inch spaces
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DO IT YOURSELF
between them, on edge on a flat Alternatively, purchase a ready- LAY A DRY RUN
surface. Then lay a length of 1- made story pole. A standard Snap chalk lines on the foot-
by-2 or 1-by-4 next to the bricks model has marks every 8 inches ing indicating the outline of the
and draw marks indicating the to indicate three courses of com- wall. Place the bricks on the
centers of each mortar joint. mon brick plus the mortar joints. footing in a dry run, with 3⁄8-inch
dowels between them to repre-
sent the joints. Make sure you
understand how the bricks will
be laid out at the corner. You
might need to cut a brick or two.
• Hassle-Free, 1
Click on your
no trenches garden hose
quick connector included
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THE ADVANTAGES:
✭ 5 Point per side locking system keeps tiles locked tight and minimizes movement
✭ Highly Engineered Support structure ads strength while allowing moisture underneath to evaporate
✭ Color coordinated base molding, stair treads and riser material available.
DO IT YOURSELF
2030Pplus
Broadcast Spreader
FEATURES INCLUDE:
✔ Fully assembled
✔ Large 9” Pro Turf type pneumatic wheels
✔ Extra large 1,830 cu. in. 75lb. Rust-proof hopper
✔ Ev-N-Spred® 3-hole drop
✔ Foam comfort grip
✔ Rate control high on handle with easy read numbers
✔ Spread pattern 8’~10’
✔ Heavy-duty Gearbox for long life
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BUILD A LEAD
Continue building the corner or
the end of the wall, which is
called a lead. Make a stack
seven or eight bricks high. As you
go, use a level to check that the
corner is plumb and the courses
level. Use a story pole to check
joint thickness. Do not slide
bricks to adjust their position,
unless you have laid them within
the past two minutes.
STRING A LINE
BETWEEN LEADS
Build a lead at the other end of
the wall in the same way and
check it with the story pole and
level. Lay all the in-between
bricks for the bottom course of
both wythes, using the pencil Use masonry blocks and a string
lines as guides. Hook mason’s guide. Begin the courses at the
blocks and stretch a mason’s line corners and work inward.
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DO IT YOURSELF
Excerpted by permission of
Sunset Publishing Corporation
from Walks, Walls & Patio Floors
by Jeanne Huber and the editors
of Sunset Books, published in
February 2008 by Sunset Books.
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EXTREME0805
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KIT-BUILT
LOG
HOMES he romance of building a log home in the
By Monte Burch
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KIT-BUILT
LOG
HOMES
One of the main advantages buildings are normally milled to Other packages consist of
homeowners find, however, is the precise shapes to ensure tight, shells constructed by the dealer
ease of maintenance. No paint- secure buildings. Or, you may pre- or a contractor working for the
ing, scraping and all the other fer to have a log crafter build dealer. In this case the contractor
hard work associated with many your home. These are usually erects the log shell and encloses
building exteriors. Another advan- “one-of-a-kind” homes built to the house. You do all the finish
tage in many cases is log homes the purchaser’s designs. Both work, such as wiring, plumbing,
usually cost less than compara- of these cases are commonly interior finishing, trimming and in
ble stick-built homes, and if you “turn-key” jobs, sometimes right some cases, roof shingling. This
want to trade your own sweat for down to the paint, draperies and is an excellent way to get started
dollars, you can really save. carpeting. if you don’t have the experience,
CHOICES, CHOICES
Log buildings can be acquired
in several ways. The least expen-
sive, but hardest work is to cut or
purchase logs and build your own
log home. To do this requires lum-
berjacking and log-building skills,
plenty of time and lots of muscle.
Wholesale Logs of America
(www.wholesalelogsamerica.com)
provides a variety of log sizes
and materials direct from the mill.
The simplest and most expen-
sive method is to purchase a
manufactured log home and
have it erected by the log home
manufacturer. The logs in these
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KIT-BUILT
LOG
HOMES
time or tools to construct the l
og shell. Some do-it-yourselfers
prefer the opposite approach:
constructing the house shell,
then subcontracting other
chores. Of course, the more
you can do yourself, the greater
A closed shell usually consists
of girders, floor joists, floor insu-
lation, subflooring, perimeter log
walls, caulking, windows with
screens, exterior doors, roof sup-
port systems, roof insulation,
roof sheathing and sometimes
the savings. shingles—plus porches and
decks, if included in the plans. In
essence, everything needed to
lock up your home and keep its
interior weather-resistant is
included. As with any other type
of house construction, but even
more so with log construction,
you should plan to begin con-
struction in plenty of time to
enclose the building before fall
and winter weather sets in.
CABIN IN A KIT
The next step, involving more
work but a great deal less cost,
is to purchase a “kit” log home
and erect it yourself. This is
essentially a package of “precut”
logs. Package homes are avail-
able in a wide variety of types.
For instance you can purchase
only milled or debarked logs if
you wish to cut your own notches,
window and door openings. You
can also purchase a kit consisting
of only the walls, along with
spikes, gaskets and other items
needed. Another type is the “shell”
kit, which includes the walls, roof
and floor framing, and sometimes
the windows and doors. You will
typically have to supply the roofing,
finish flooring, interior finishes and
so forth. Eagle Panel Systems
(www.eaglepanelsystems.com) sell
complete cathedral roof systems,
especially designed for log homes.
These are typical tongue-and-
groove wood panels and rigid foam
insulation, as well as pre-applied
tongue-and-groove sheathing.
If you already have the land,
all that’s necessary is to pick
the home style you desire from
the many offered by kit-home
manufacturers. The manufacturer
VISIT US AT WWW.CADETCO.COM/EHT may even help arrange financing.
Companies usually do not provide
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financing, but can assist in find- own design for appraisal and a photo or drawing and a floor
ing a lender. Financing is one fac- a quote. plan. All materials for log porches
tor you should look into at the When purchasing a manufac- and balconies should be included
start. Some lenders will not do tured log home kit, make if they are in the plans for the
country property or log construc- absolutely sure you understand home. Models with cathedral
tion projects. First, understand exactly what will be furnished ceilings should have cathedral
what you need, and then shop and how. In most instances you ceiling rafters and collar ties.
around. will be purchasing a building from Accessory materials, such as
With financing arranged, order
your log home package and,
while waiting for delivery, prepare
the site and construct the foun-
dation. Within a matter of weeks,
the kit arrives on flatbed trailer
trucks. A quality shell kit can be
erected in a matter of days, usu-
ally within a month, even by inex-
perienced builders. Kit log
homes are delivered to your site
on large, 40-foot trailer trucks.
Your site, including the access
road, must be able to accommo-
date a truck of this size with
enough room to properly unload
the materials, and also be able
to turn around and get out. There
must also be plenty of room to
store the logs. A crew of friends
and neighbors should be on
hand to help unload the truck
when it arrives because some
drivers may refuse to do the
unloading. Ask what is needed
for delivery and unloading before
ordering.
Although kit log homes are rel-
atively easy to build, they require
extensive planning. There are
hundreds of kit log homes avail-
able from almost just as many
manufacturers. Most are reliable
and offer a good product. But as
in all of life, there are a few bad
apples in the barrel. Shop
around when considering a home
package. A life savings invested
in a house of poor materials, of
poor design or shoddy joinery
can create big disappointments.
Consult several log home compa-
nies. Ask about modifying stan-
dard plans to suit your lifestyle.
Most companies are willing to
make substantial changes to suit
individual requirements. In fact,
you may be able to send your
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KIT-BUILT
LOG
HOMES
and a little skill, you can build
your own log home.
KIT CONSIDERATIONS
Log buildings are constructed
in several ways, and kits can be
are formed on the inside or out-
side of the house to catch rain-
water, dust or dirt. Using uniform
logs also saves construction
time, and makes installation of
interior woodwork much easier.
purchased with different types of Kit logs are milled in various
construction. This includes cross sections. The basic
Scandinavian full-scribed, chinked shapes are: two-sided, three-
shingles, wiring, plumbing and round logs, milled square logs, sided, four-sided and completely
interior partitions can usually be hand-hewn square (or simulated turned or shaped. A two-sided
purchased locally at a lower cost hand-hewn), rustic slabbed logs log has two parallel sides and is
than having them shipped. Plus, and milled logs with rounded normally cut whole from one tree
when shopping locally you can exteriors and flat interiors. Kits with the heart of the tree left in.
select the grade and type of with uniform-size, milled logs are These are usually cut from a tree
material. The complete shell kit more expensive because it takes larger than 8 inches in diameter.
should come with a set of more effort to mill the logs to the Three-sided logs may or may not
instructions and numbered logs. same size and shape. There are, be cut from a whole tree. In most
These take quite a bit of effort in however, definite advantages to instances they are not. These
construction, but with patience uniform-size logs. No “shelves” logs are usually cut from trees
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24 inches or larger in diameter. other instances, splines or corners to construct as you must
All timbers are cut to a uniform tongue-and-grooves are milled also scribe the log bottom to fit
size. A four-sided log is usually into the mating surfaces. Corner over the log below it. This notch
cut from a larger log, but some- joints may be scribed, scribed is more commonly used by cus-
times a whole tree is used. and chinked, hewn and chinked, tom log builders, rather than in
Turned logs are normally cut or with a variety of notched or kits. A similar method is the
from a whole tree, using giant tongue-and-groove joints. In some Swedish cope saddle notch. In
lathes or milling machines to of the latter cases, the joints are this case the logs are not
turn the log to a uniform diame- also insulated with foam insula- scribed on their bottoms, but fit
ter. These logs range from 6- to tion. (Note: “Chinking” is the grit- full with milled joints or splines.
12-inches in diameter. A shaped ty, mortar-like material seen This makes it somewhat easier
log is usually four-sided. Three between courses of logs in many to do and is a common kit-home
sides are cut flat and the fourth log homes. Modern Chinking is a style. A similar notch is the dou-
shaped to one of several differ- flexible, textured sealant.) ble-notch. This consists of a
ent exterior designs. Corner styles also vary, and notch on top and one on the
A whole log with the full heart can not only provide the aesthet- bottom of the crossing logs.
of the tree offers the best dura- ic appeal, but depending on the This also alleviates the need
bility. If the entire heart is in the style, a difference in construction for cutting the bottom cup or
log, it won’t check through in effort and longevity. Scandinavian groove, but produces a much
seasoning and will be more rot- scribed log construction typically weaker corner joint.
resistant. Cut logs can check utilizes interlocking corners. The A very simple joint is the sharp
entirely through the log. In the logs are notched to interlock at notch. This is quick and easy to
case of milled logs, sometimes the corners with a half-height build and again, no under cup or
the flat surfaces utilize a sealant difference. The Scandinavian groove is used. This is a com-
or foam strip between them. In scribe is one of the most difficult mon corner joint simple cabins,
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KIT-BUILT
LOG
HOMES
and rarely seen with kit build-
ings. With the sharp notch
method the joints must be well
chinked. The ends of the logs
have a sharp knife edge cut on
their tops, and their undersides
cut to fit the notch below them.
cutting to produce this corner joint.
The butt-and-pass is one of the
joineries typically used with kit-built
homes and logs that are milled on
at least the top and bottom and
sometimes on the inside as well,
creating a flat interior wall. The first
It doesn’t take much sill logs are laid with the log ends
Hand-hewn
protruding past the foundation the
Log Styles desired amount. These ends can
Round log be further trimmed after the walls
Chinking Scandinavian full have been erected. The adjoining
scribed chinking logs are cut so their butt ends
meet the outside corners of the
protruding logs. If the inside faces
are round, for a tight joint, the butt
ends should be scribed to meet
the contour of the adjoining log. As
Milled B-sides the joints are basically open, they
routed groove with
should be well caulked. This style
EthaFoam
produces a symmetrical and attrac-
tive interior wall surface, but is not
as strong as other joints.
A corner notch is also fairly sim-
ple, but is more commonly used in
Total milled Total milled tongue & groove, post-and-beam or when several
round interior flat interior
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KIT-BUILT
LOG
HOMES
pleasant odor. Cedar is another
excellent choice, especially
Western red cedar. Spruce is
also popular. Spruce is often cut
from standing dead timber, which oak for other purposes, limits its the logs. A variety of preservatives
reduces drying time and shrink- use for kit-built homes. Oak, how- are available these days, such as
age problems. Spruce, however, ever is the most common material Perma-Chink (www.permachink.com)
is subject to severe cracking and used for hewed log homes. Oak clear coatings, that are environ-
checking. Although some of this checks severely, pine not as mentally friendly, clean and easy to
is cosmetic, some cracks run much, and cedar negligibly. In bet- apply. These are typically applied
entirely through the log, particu- ter-quality packages, all the bark to the exterior after the logs are
larly if the log is milled to shape. will be removed from the logs. erected. Some are also applied to
Larch, aspen, and cypress are Depending on the kit, the the interior to maintain the color of
used to lesser degrees. Oak is logs may or may not be treated the logs and add to the décor.
used in some areas, but the against decay and insect infestation. Proper construction details can
odor, weight and high value of Many kit-log builders pressure-treat also make a difference in preventing
decay and log deterioration. Good
drainage around the foundation is
important so storm water can’t col-
lect around and under the building.
The site should be graded so water
drains away from the building. For a
single-story building, the overhang
should project 23 inches and the
eaves should extend beyond roof
supporting members. A steeper
pitched roof can also drain away
rainwater faster.
In the old days the spaces
between the logs were chinked
with materials on hand, including
moss, mud, grass and even
chunks of wood. Modern chink-
ing, however, often consists of
a wide range of materials, such
as Log Jam and Chinker’s Edge
(www.sashco.com). They are easy
to use and will even stay flexible.
Can you do it yourself? Yes you
can, and people do it all the time.
Raising a log building, however,
takes muscle-power, skills and
tools. The skills are fairly easily
learned and most kit-home manu-
facturers provide a fairly compre-
hensive construction manual, in
addition to the floor and elevation
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KIT-BUILT
LOG
Spike
Sub floor
flashing
behind
plan, and a numbered set of logs
to match. You’ll probably need a 2x10 joist
good medium-size chainsaw, and a
heavy sledge for driving spikes.
You’ll also need standard construc- 1x10
tion carpenter’s tools including ham- trim board
mers, cordless drills and saws, levels,
squares and so forth.
For more information on Header
kit-built homes, contact: Termite
shield & flashing Header
www.loghomesnetwork.com,
with triple blocking
www.LHIinfo.com. EHT
at rdw th
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48 www.extremehowto.com
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ClosetCabinetFeature7EDIT.qxp:Layout 1 3/12/08 9:28 AM Page 50
ClosetCabinetFeature7EDIT.qxp:Layout 1 3/12/08 9:31 AM Page 51
BETTER
BUILT-IN
Converting a Closet
to Cabinets
By Larry Walton
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BETTER
BUILT-IN fits within the opening, and then
use casing to bridge between the
casing and the wall surface. This
is an important step when remov-
cabinet face frame and the wall ing trim, because the caulk can
Stan noted their ideas, and did surface. pull the paper face off the dry-
some measuring. The existing The third method requires that wall requiring unnecessary
closet was under the first flight the corners of the opening be fin- repairs to complete the project.
of stairs and had an opening only ished and the cabinet built as a Even with the caulking cut,
into the kitchen area. net fit, or with scribes around the Davis took care not to damage
outside that can be shaped
exactly to fit the opening.
Davis chose method two for
both the kitchen and dining room
cabinets because he wanted to
trim the cabinets with casing that
matched the door opening
between the kitchen and dining
room.
The homeowners were very
happy with their new cabinets,
which were installed by removing
the bifold door, cutting back
the shelving, re-routing a wire,
framing an additional opening,
then installing and trimming the
cabinets.
HOW TO DO IT
Before conversion After removing the bi-fold
doors, Davis used a utility knife
The closet was deep enough to to cut the caulking between the
accommodate a nice built-in cabi-
net at the door opening on the
kitchen side while leaving room
for another built-in cabinet on the
dining room side.
Stan made some sketches and
got the cabinet design concept to
the guys at Lonne’s Cabinet Shop
in Springfield, Oregon. He sched-
uled an install for later that month.
FITTING IN
There are three common meth-
ods to fitting built-in cabinets
into an opening. The first method
is to build the cabinet carcass or
box slightly smaller than the
opening the cabinet will occupy.
The cabinet maker then adds a
face frame, which extends out
wider than the opening to cover
the gap and any rough edges in
the opening.
The second method is to build
the cabinet so the face frame
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the walls or floors while remov- The bifold door opening would
ing the casing. Once the casing accommodate the kitchen cabi-
was off, Davis made quick work net, but an opening had to be
of removing the bifold, track, cut from the closet to the dining
half-jamb and full jamb. room for the curio cabinet. Davis
One of the interesting aspects made all of the layout marks
of this project was that it still inside the closet where they
made use of storage behind the would not be seen.
cabinets in the odd-shaped clos-
et. One of the cabinets was
designed to allow access
through the back, so Davis
marked the shelves to be cut so
the remaining shelves could still
be used.
Davis started each shelf cut
with a circular saw. He then fin-
ished each shelf cut with his
Fein MultiMaster.
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BETTER
BUILT-IN
might be in the wall. You can
never be quite sure what’s inside
a wall until you get it opened up.
Davis used a reciprocating saw
to cut the framing out of what
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BETTER
BUILT-IN
viewing the drywall cut from the
dining room side, you can see
the sawzall blade caused no
damage to the heavily textured
wall paper. When he removed the
drywall from the dining room side
of the wall, you could see that
most of the mess was on the
inside of the closet.
Electrician Rocky Thornton came
by to inspect the wiring and
make all of the final connections.
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BETTER
BUILT-IN Davis measured the header
piece for the cabinets at the
short point of the miters. After
making a 45-degree cut on the
right end, he lined the short
point of the miter with the edge
of his tailgate liner, which provid-
ed a good hooking point for his
tape so he could mark the short
point for the left end miter. He
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nailed the casing to the cabinet allow access into the storage
face frames with 18-gauge finish area behind the cabinet.
nails and then through the cas- The finished project features
ing and drywall into the framing built-in cabinets in two rooms
on the thick edge of the casing that occupy space in one
with 16-gauge finish nails. closet. EHT
The kitchen cabinet features
roll-out recycle bins and a trash
can, which can be moved to
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HIGHLIGHTS FROM
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HIGHLIGHTS FROM
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FLO-N-STOP WATER
SECURITY SYSTEM
If you’ve ever come home to a
huge, soggy mess due to a burst
water pipe, then you can proba-
bly see the value in the new Flo-
n-Stop remote-controlled water
security system. Install the bat-
tery-operated controller next to
the entrance for an easy way to
shut off the water supply to your
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HIGHLIGHTS FROM
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HIGHLIGHTS FROM
plate. This means you’re not nate with the beauty of solid those lengths (minus 1/8 inch),
fighting against the flat surface surface materials to create a and plug the J-channel into the
of the standard footplate no smooth radius edge. Available Kwik Corner. Then install the
matter which direction you tilt are new patterns and textures frame around the window and
the saw. The curved plate pro- that rival expensive high-end door, and nail it in place. Along
vides a single contact point as materials, and at a fraction of with diverting water and saving
you maneuver the jigsaw along the cost. The dual material also installation time, it provides a
the profile of a piece of mould- affords endless color combina- finished look around the J-chan-
ing. Using the Coping Foot takes tions for a customized kitchen. nel, concealing unsightly gaps
a little practice, and the mould- Plus, the curved front edge of and cracks. For more informa-
ing should be clamped securely the countertop, which receives tion, go to www.kwikcorner.com
so you can use both hands on the heaviest wear on the count- or call 1-866-781-KWIK.
the saw. But once you get the er, spreads the wear over a larg-
feel of the tool, you can quickly er surface area, minimizing the
notch out the stock and trim up damage. Gem-Loc Premier Edge
the profile with a file. This is available in a wide variety of
attachment proves to be a real styles, including tongue-and-
time-saving alternative to a man- groove, flat-back and a back-
ual coping saw. For more, visit splash cap. Visit
www.collinstool.com or call 1- www.gemloc.com or call
888-838-8988. 1-877-GEM-EDGE.
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HIGHLIGHTS FROM
THE BUILDERS’ SHOW prevent drain clogs. The strength of steel but with the easy
PermaFlow piping is also clear, workability of wood products.
so you can easily see and diag- Compared to hot-rolled structural
nose potential plumbing prob- steel or engineered wood beams,
lems. And if there is an obstruc-
tion in the trap, simply turn the
outside dial clockwise to rotate
the internal wiper to the “9
o’clock” position, lifting debris
into the water stream to continue
down the drain. Use this same
rotating action to hold a dropped
article—like a diamond ring—in
place while you lower a wire hook
from the sink to retrieve it.
PermaFlow provides a low-mainte-
nance solution to troubleshoot
PERMAFLOW the home’s plumbing system.
PermaFlow is a multi-functional Visit www.pfwaterworks.com or LSB can save time and labor. The
plumbing fixture that installs like call 1-877-265-9777. LSB beams can be carried like
a conventional P-trap beneath wood beams and can be cut,
sinks and lavatories. The fixture’s LITESTEEL BEAMS nailed, screwed and drilled on the
unique design continually moves LiteSteel Beam (LSB) from worksite using standard tools.
sediment downstream, which LiteSteel technologies is a light- Visit www.litesteelbeam.com or
minimizes stagnant residue to weight structural beam with the call 1-877-285-2607. EHT
1-800-662-3557
www.tjak.com
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BUILD A
SQUEAK-FREE
FLOOR
By Chris Brandt, P.E.
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f you are planning an addition help provide a solid and silent provides superior quality over
E
home, a key area to focus on is that show through carpet, linoleum engine: All of the parts must fit
the structural framing of the or other floor coverings. together precisely and work as one
floors. Too often, floors have Quality builders will tell you for optimum performance. And,
annoying squeaks or bounce, that viewing the overall structural using modern materials, such as
which can mar an otherwise quality frame as a system, instead of engineered wood products, can
job on the rest of the project. But individual components, helps help speed construction and
a correctly built floor is a hallmark deliver a stronger built home; improve overall quality.
of good construction and can help this goes the same for your
support the long-term value and floors. Selecting and installing PLAN AHEAD
enjoyment of your home. Paying joists, rim board and floor panels The first step in creating a
careful attention to the framing will that perform as a cohesive unit superior floor is working out the
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BUILD A
SQUEAK-FREE
FLOOR The traditional approach to
designing a floor is based on live
To address this shortcoming,
an action many professional
load deflection criteria (i.e., how builders take—one that is also
details in advance. This is critical much the floor “bends” when the open to the serious do-it-your-
because it can be difficult and room is furnished and occupied), selfer—is to have the dealer pro-
expensive to try to retrofit a poor but deflection is only one part of vide a prediction of the floor’s
floor installation. how a floor performs. Relying on performance. For example, using
Fortunately, you don’t need to be this method may provide a struc- TJ-Pro™ Ratings developed by
a contractor or architect to develop turally sound floor that meets iLevel by Weyerhaeuser, the deal-
a well-thought and workable plan codes, but falls short of your expec- er can evaluate factors such as
for the floors. Many lumber and tations if it bounces, feels soft, or materials and installation meth-
building material dealers—espe- vibrates when you walk on it. ods, and determine a target
cially those who support profes-
sional builders—have the tools Work with your lumber dealer to
and resources to help turn your develop a floor plan.
basic ideas into a detailed plan.
They can show you the size, spac-
ing, and span for all materials, and
then provide a detailed list to help
you get the right supplies. As with
any construction project, you
should check with your local build-
ing department to ensure compli-
ance with codes and to confirm if
an engineer of record will need to
review and stamp the plans.
PAINT TO DRY?
The Painter’s Pyramid™
A clever, new solution to a long
felt problem unmet by any other
product on the market…
waiting for paint to dry before
completing a job.
Available in 3 colors:
Red, Blue, Yellow,
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Highest quality and Lowest price makes for happy customers over and over.
BUILD A
SQUEAK-FREE
FLOOR performance of various construc-
tion plans before installation.
is quick and straightforward.
You’ll need to provide the dealer
This can also help ensure that with the dimensions of the floor,
performance rating for your floor the finished floor is not over built the type of floor covering (carpet,
based on your own expectations. or under built, and it balances tile, hardwood, etc.), and the
Such ratings provide you with an desired performance with your anticipated use of the room.
idea of how the floor will feel, and project budget. Considering the use can help you
allow you to test and compare the Obtaining performance ratings decide how solid you want the
floor to be. For example, a high
TJ-Pro Rating may be especially
important in a room with a lot
of traffic like a living room or
kitchen, but less important in
a spare bedroom or office.
JOISTS
Once you’ve worked out a
framing plan with the building
material dealer, there are a num-
ber of things you can do during
installation to help ensure the
floor works as a system. From
your work with the dealer, you will
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BUILD A
SQUEAK-FREE
FLOOR beams or headers using metal
hangers. Place a dab of adhesive
Third, if you need to use one of
the pre-cut knockout holes or drill
in the seat of the hanger to help a hole, follow the manufacturer’s
er’s specifications for fastening eliminate squeaks from the joist hole chart and size the hole larger
the I-joists at supports. This will rubbing on the hanger. Be sure than the pipe or conduit passing
help ensure the flanges are not to nail the hanger in all required through it. This will help eliminate
damaged and will reduce the holes as specified by the manu- noise from the joist rubbing
potential for nails squeaking facturer and bend the tabs over against the pipe when someone
when you walk on the floor. I- (on select hangers) followed by walks over the floor.
joists are typically attached to nailing them down. Finally, while not related to
floor noise, do not cut or notch
the flanges of I-joists. The
I-joists are typically attached to beams or
flanges are designed to be a con-
headers using metal hangers.
tinuous unit and cuts can reduce
their load bearing capacity, poten-
tially resulting in breakage or
loss of structural integrity.
If you are working with sawn
lumber joists instead of engi-
neered I-joists, many of the
suggestions in the following sec-
tions on rim board and sheathing
will help reduce the potential for
squeaks. In addition, some man-
ufacturers offer higher-grade
joists that are selected for
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RIM BOARD
Rim board is a key component
in the overall floor framing sys- Oriented strand board (OSB) is the preferred material for subfloor
tem. It provides a stable attach- panels because it is less susceptible to buckling and delamination,
ment point for the joists and and typically does not have the knots and voids found in plywood.
assists with vertical and lateral
load transfer, including transfer- wood product options available engineered wood product rim
ring loads from the walls through for rim board. The key factor in board. To help avoid this, manu-
to the foundation. Rim board selecting rim board is to match facturers typically make I-joists
also provides a secure attach- it to the material used for the in different sizes from sawn
ment point for decks. joists. In other words, do not lumber so they don’t appear to
As with joists, there are both mix I-joists with sawn lumber be compatible with one another.
sawn lumber and engineered rim board or sawn joists with Matching materials is important
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BUILD A
SQUEAK-FREE
FLOOR No special tools are required
to work with LSL and regardless
durable adhesives. A typical OSB
panel is comprised of four mats,
of whether you use it or sawn with the wood strands cross-ori-
and eliminates differences in lumber rim board, be sure to fol- ented from layer to layer for
shrinkage and inconsistencies low code requirements for con- strength. To achieve the flattest
between materials. I-joists typically nections to the rest of the struc- and most stable floors, OSB is
do not shrink, while sawn lumber ture. A key consideration with the preferred choice since it is
can shrink, potentially resulting in either type of rim board is to less susceptible to buckling and
gaps that can lead to a noisy floor. plan ahead so that joints fall delamination and typically does
An engineered wood product between joists. When a rim not have the knots and voids
frequently used for rim board is board joint occurs at a joist, the often found in plywood.
laminated strand lumber (LSL), tendency is to nail both pieces A typical OSB panel thickness
such as TimberStrand®LSL. The of rim board to the joist, which used in floors is 23/32 inch, but
material is made from wood could result in damage to the thicker 1-1/8-inch panels help
strands that are dried and bound joist, as well as increase the dampen vibration and provide a
with resin. During manufacturing, potential for squeaks. more solid base with less deflec-
the alignment of the strands is tion for hardwood floors and
carefully controlled to take FLOOR PANELS
advantage of the wood’s natural Typical subfloor panels are
strength. The result is rim board either plywood or oriented strand
that is consistently straight, true board (OSB). OSB is an engi-
and dimensionally stable—key neered wood product manufac-
properties for load transfer. LSL tured from layers (or mats) of
also has the added benefit of thin, approximately rectangular,
holding fasteners very well, which strands of wood compressed
can help eliminate squeaks. and bonded together with
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BUILD A
SQUEAK-FREE
FLOOR of joists and rim board, do not
slide the panel across them,
Pay close attention to nail
location when attaching the floor
smearing the adhesive. Instead, panels. Nails that narrowly miss
ends. Otherwise, you run the risk position the panel against the the joist (called "shiners") will
of panels buckling and creating already installed panels at a slight rub against it when someone
uneven surfaces or ridges in the angle, and then set it into place. walks over the floor, causing a
finished floor. Fasten the entire panel before squeak. Snap chalk lines on the
For the strongest bond, once moving on to the next one, rather floor panels before fastening
adhesive is applied to the tops than tacking the corners only. them to ensure that all nails
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Achieve
Near
Zero
Air Infiltration!
www.energyblock.com
701-320-1111
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EVERYTHING AUTO
By Tim Walton
hen my friend Michael Stabilizer bars, anti-sway bars world” road conditions.
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EVERYTHING AUTO
STEP-BY-STEP
If you’re not blessed with a Snake the sway bar around the
shop equipped with a lift, you exhaust on the passenger side,
can use a floor jack and jack taking advantage of the extra
stands to support the vehicle room on the driver’s side you freed
(check your vehicle’s owner’s by moving the muffler earlier.
manual for proper locations).
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Supporting the rear differential Slide the Cobb sway bar into
housing, remove the 19-millimeter position, keeping the angles need-
bolts from the sub-frame and slide ed with the stock sway bar in mind.
the (left and right specific) Cobb The aftermarket cat-back exhaust
reinforcement brackets between system we installed earlier added a
the sub-frame and chassis. little extra challenge because of its
extra tubing size.
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EVERYTHING AUTO
STEP-BY-STEP
ED
NE RE
MO O
?
Remove the factory bushing
straps. Be careful to support the
INF
sway bar to prevent it from
falling, and note it’s orientation
below the tie-rod ends.
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MapeiFP:Layout 1 3/12/08 11:17 AM Page BC1