Vitamins

STAY-C® 50

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Formulating with Vitamin C
Formulation Guidance STAY-C® 50: two steps for the best activity
Ascorbic acid STAY-C® 50, DSM stable derivative of Vitamin C, penetrates the
skin surface and is bioavailable into the skin as ascorbic acid.
Stability – for a better performance
1. STAY-C® 50 penetrates the skin
• Low pH (3-4) UP TO STAY-C® 50 penetrates
15% STAY-C® 50 | Vitamin C
the skin within 2 hours
• Low water content (adding alcohol, glycols, etc..) SE and is metabolized to
LEVE

L
U
Ascorbic acid in deeper
or anhydrous formulations oil-/silicone-based 4.5% skin layers
Skin
• Add antioxidants (Tocopherol, Ferulic Acid, etc..) surface
0.1%
• Use airless packaging

0.1%
Solubility
Skin
• Freely soluble in water (approx. 30g/100ml) 33.3% Ac
tiv
es
kin
• Sparingly soluble in alcohol (approx. 2g/100ml) pe
ne
tra
• Soluble in glycols 0.1% tio
Deeper n
layers
55.6%

STAY-C 50 ® 0 10 20 30
Active Ingredient (percent)
40 50 60

Stability – for a better performance STAY-C® 50 and Ascorbic acid concentration on each skin layer by HLPC.

• pH ≥ 6 UP TO
15% 2. 95% of STAY-C® 50 is converted into ascorbic acid within 2 minutes
• Add 0.05-0.1% Sodium Metabisulfite to improve SE
LEVE
L
U

100
color stability Vitamin C
95% of STAY-C® 50
• Add chelating agents (EDTA, phytic acid, etc..) 80
is converted into
to prevent degradation by heavy metal ions ascorbic acid by
acid posphatases
Percent of conversion

• Check stability with electrolytes sensitive thickeners

60
and some ionic emulsifiers

Solubility 40

• Readily soluble in water

20
• Insoluble in lipophilic components or alcohols 5% STAY-C® 50
Stay-C® 50
is not converted
• Dissolve STAY-C 50 in water and add it to an
®
0
emulsion as an aqueous solution below 35-40°C 0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180
Seconds

Stability in formulation
STAY-C® 50 is ≥90% stable at all temperatures Even though some slight discoloration content of the active. STAY-C® 50 is
(4°C, RT, daylight, 40°C) after 3 months storage. occurs at 40°C, it does not impact the long-term stable at room temperature.

Percent recovery of active in 2% STAY-C® 50 o

r Color stability of 2% STAY-C® 50 or Ascorbic acid emulsion
Ascorbic acid formulation At 4°C Room temp. Room temp.
(3 months) (dark, 3 months) (daylight, 3 months)
4°C | RT | daylight | 40°C
100

80
Percent recovery vs t0

60

40

20

0
STAY-C® 50 STAY-C® 50 Ascorbic Acid Ascorbic Acid
pH 6 pH 7 pH 3 pH 4 STAY®-C 50 Ascorbic STAY®-C 50 Ascorbic STAY®-C 50 Ascorbic
acid acid acid
pH 6 pH 3 pH 6 pH 3 pH 6 pH 3
 DSM: leader and pioneer in vitamins
DSM pioneered vitamins for beauty, being the first to explore
their potential as active ingredients for use in cosmetic
applications. Nowadays, DSM as the world’s leading
supplier of vitamins, is proud to deliver Vitamin C of
the highest quality in different forms and
granulometries.
Need of Vitamin C supplementation
Vitamin C is a molecule called Ascorbic acid that is
naturally occurring in our body. Since humans are
unable to synthesize Vitamin C, we rely entirely on
the external supplementation of this precious
ingredient. Especially in the skin, where Vitamin C
levels are easily depleted by UV irradiation,
pollutants and aging, topical application of
Vitamin C becomes crucial to protect and improve
human skin.
Higher quality and sustainability
with DSM Quali®-C
Vitamins are, by definition, essential to life. Like all
of DSM’s vitamins, Quali®-C now comes with the
Quality for Life™ seal; guaranteeing the highest
standards for Quality, Reliability, Traceability and
Sustainability.
Sustainability is fully embedded at DSM’s Quali -C®
production site in Dalry, Scotland, where Ascorbic
acid has been in production since 1983.
It has the lowest carbon footprint for
Ascorbic acid production: 59% lower
greenhouse gas emissions compared to
main alternative sources.
Our efforts to reduce the environmental
impact of the Vitamin C production process
were awarded in Dalry with the European
Responsible Care Environment Award by
CEFIC (2015).
High consumer awareness
Among consumers, vitamins are considered
imperative cosmetic ingredients. No other
group of ingredients has gained such high
awareness in beauty products.
3 out of every 5
women know that
vitamins are in cosmetic products.
Vitamin C is a popular and trusted
ingredient among consumers with many
benefits to offer. In fact, worldwide, 1 in 20
products contains Vitamin C and the
awareness of vitamin C is much higher than
other beauty boosting actives.
71% of consumers are
aware Vitamin C
71% promotes the
appearance of skin,
hair and nails.

Ascorbic acid in different forms

L-Ascorbic acid is the only active form of vitamin C, however it is also
Product
highly susceptible to oxidation. To ensure better stability in Synthetic Vitamin C Halal Kosher China code
formulation and enhance skin penetration of Vitamin C, different
forms and stable derivatives of Ascorbic acid have been developed
Ascorbic acid • • • 04 0805 0
Ascorbic acid fine
and launched on the market. granular powder • 04 0809 3

DSM provides the finest grades of Vitamin C Ascorbic acid fine

powder • • • 04 2240 0
DSM offers different grades of Vitamin C:
Ascorbic acid ultra
Ascorbic acid: genuine Vitamin C in one of the finest grades available fine powder • • • 50 0976 6

on the market (Ascorbic acid ultra fine powder) STAY-C® 50

STAY-C® 50: our stable Vitamin C specialty and multi-talent active

INCI sodium
ascorbyl phosphate
• • 50 0085 8

which delivers vitamin C efficiently into the skin Ascorbyl phosphate • • • 04 1859 5

Ascorbyl palmitate: the oil- soluble technical ingredient used to

protect cosmetic emulsions and oils against oxidation
Key Areas of Benefits
While Vitamin C is typically referred as the #1 benchmark antioxidant, it is proven to be LIGHTENI
N
very effective in various skin and personal care applications by delivering many benefits:

NG
SK
• Excellent antioxidant by reducing peroxides formation and
I-AGEIN I- OXIDA
carbonylated proteins NT NT N

G
A
AC

T
• Boosts collagen synthesis and improves skin firmness TIVIT Y

AND

ION
• Evens the skin tone and reduces age spots by limiting
AC H

CT
the production of melanin E
TI V ITIE S OT

P
Vitamin C O PROT
• Improves the appearance of acne-prone skin
versatile
PROV L CARE
• Limits the growth of oral bacteria for healthy teeth and gum C IM properties A
TI E
OR

ME
COSM
• Has deodorant activity

NT
Many cosmetic applications IR CARE
HA

OF

NT
AN
D

KI
CN S
E- P R O N E DEO D OR A

A
• Day care products • Anti-aging products

• Sun care products • Clarifying perfection products (anti-acne)

• Skin tone applications • Oral and body care AC

TIVIT Y

Anti-oxidant and photoprotection

Vitamin C is the anti-stress solution for a STAY-C® 50 reduces the Vitamin C reduces
UV-induced lipid protein oxidation by 91%
daily, non-stop protection. peroxides up to 40% vs placebo
in vivo in vivo
• Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant as Reduction of Reduction of protein
squalene peroxides oxidation (carbonylation)3
shown by its ability to reduce squalene
peroxides and oxidized (carbonylated) 50 100
* -95% -91%
proteins in vivo.
40 80
40
• It demonstrates synergistic anti-oxidant *
Percentage

Percentage

30 60
and anti-pollution activity with Vitamin E. 30

In vivo studies have shown that a mixture 20

40

of stabilized Vitamin C and Vitamin E can 10

20
decrease erythema by 50% and sunburn 0
4
Placebo 1% STAY-C® 50 3% STAY-C® 50 0
cells up to 75%.1 Another in vivo study has Placebo Vitamin E Vitamin C AA glucoside#
shown that the combination of these 2
vitamins decreased also the inflammation 20 volunteers. Topical treatment for 7 days prior UV-irradiation 8 volunteers. 0.5% topical application twice daily for 4 weeks on
twice daily. * p < 0.05 vs placebo. skin forehead. AA glucoside #: ascorbyl 2-glucoside.
marker of ozone exposure NFkB up to 50%.2

Anti-aging STAY-C® 50 boosts

fibroblast collagen I (+57%)
STAY-C® 50 doubles
the skin firmness
and collagen III (+39%) increase
Vitamin C displays anti-aging activities in vitro in vivo
Collagen production
alone or in combination with other vitamins. (ratio collagen / total protein)
Measurement of firmness by
• STAY-C® 50 stimulates collagen synthesis cutometer on inner forearm
20.0
in dermal fibroblasts and it helps to Collagen I | Collagen III 35
18.0
+30% * +39% *
*
Increased firmness (percent)

maintain skin firmness in aged skin 16.0 30

14.0
+2.2 fold 31
25
• A vitamin complex consisting of 12.0 +42% * +57% * 20
STAY-C 50 and Biotin demonstrates
®
10.0
20
15
proven benefits in the reduction of 8.0
6.0 14
10
wrinkles (-25 µM) as shown in DSM’s 4.0
5
in vivo study. 2.0
0.0 0
• A combination of Vitamin C and Retinol NT TGFB 0.001% 0.005% Placebo 1% 3%
(20ng/ml) STAY-C® 50 STAY-C® 50
improved fine lines and radiance by 15% 20 volunteers. Topical application twice daily for
* p < 0.05 vs non treated (NT) 42 days on inner forearm. * p < 0.05 vs placebo.
in 100% of subjects.4
Skin lightening
Vitamin C has a proven strong lightening DSM’s in vivo study provides evidence that STAY-C® 50 is an approved quasi-drug
effect. Both Ascorbic acid and STAY-C 50 ®
STAY-C 50 significantly brightens the
®
active ingredient for whitening products
significantly reduce the melanin complexion and reduces the in Japan.
STAY-C® 50 reduces STAY-C® 50 reduces the
content in human melanocytes. melanin synthesis by 21%
intensity of facial age spots. color intensity of age
in vitro and is superior to spots up to 25% in vivo
other stable vitamin C and visibly evens the
Inhibition of melanin synthesis derivatives Quantification of improvement Photo evidence skin tone
0.004% | 0.012% | 0.037% by visual assessment of spot reduction
-21% -17.5% -8% -3% -45% (dermatological evaluation)
100
30
Melanin Synthesis — % of Control

**
* +25%
80
* * 25
**
20
**
60 +15%
15
**
10
40
5
20 0 After 12 weeks
Baseline Week 4 Week 8 Week 12 Before using STAY-C® 50
0
Control STAY-C® 50 MAP AA glucoside Ethyl VC Ascorbic Acid Ultra
39 female volunteers, 3-months double blind placebo-controlled study.
Fine Powder
* p < 0.05. ** p < 0.01 vs control. Test cream contained 3% STAY-C® 50 and 1% Vitamin E acetate.

A combination of Biotin and STAY-C® 50 (patent granted) demonstrated significant synergies in skin lightening. DSM efficacy data
shows significant and powerful fading of age spots and evening of the skin tone up to 69%, following its application. The addition of
Niacinamide to the blend confers additional stability to Biotin (patent granted).

Reduces appearance of acne

STAY-C® 50 can be used as an effective In vitro, STAY-C® 50 very effectively reduces appearance of skin condition associated
cosmetic ingredient for acne-prone skin. the bacterial count of Cutibacterium with acne and inflammation. Skin
Acnes, the key bacteria for acne. impurities and acne are common disorders

STAY-C® 50 inactivates DSM’s in vivo study further illustrates the not only experienced by teenagers but
Cutibacterium Acnes
STAY-C 50 potential to improve the ® also by adults.
by 5 log
in vitro
Bacterial count 5 Photographic evidence of skin Efficacy assessment of STAY-C® 50: skin condition
appearance improvement improvement (dermatological evaluation)
Control | 0.1% STAY-C® 50 | 1.0% STAY-C® 50
1,000,000 Before After 12 weeks
2 log 5 log
reduction reduction using STAY-C® 50
100,000 EXCELLENT 7
GOOD 13
10,000
FAIR 1
POOR 5
1,000
WORSENING 0
100

10 77% excellent / good

STAY-C® 50
improves skin condition
1
0 4 hours 8 hours 26 patients with acne vulgaris. 5% STAY-C® 50 topical application twice daily for 12 weeks of acne vulgaris by
77 % in 12 weeks in vivo

Vitamin C upregulates
IGF expression by 11 fold
Hair growth and induces hair follicle
Insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF1) Hair follicle growth up to 25%
expression in hair follicle growth7 ex vivo
An extra benefit of STAY-C® 50 is revealed
1.4 3.0
by its capacity to promote hair growth. As
IGF expression (protein)

Length of follicle (mm)

+25% *
1.2 * 2.5
shown by a published study, Vitamin C 1.0
11 fold
2.0
stimulates the growth of cultured human 0.8
* 1.5
hair follicle ex vivo by up-regulating the 0.6 7 fold
1.0
insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF1). 0.4
0.5
0.2
Stimulation of IGF1 is important to
0.0 0.0
counteract the thinning of hair and a slow Control Vit C 0.25 mM/l Vit C 1 mM/l Control Vit C 0.25 mM/l

hair growth as reported recently. 6

Cultured human hair follicles obtained from scalp biopsies. The concentration of IGF-1 was measured after 24h incubation
with Vitamin C. Hair follicle growth measured after 9 days incubation with Vitamin C. * p < 0.01 vs control.

References
1 J. C. Murray et al., J Am Acad Dermatol. 2008; 2 G. Valacchi et al., PLoS ONE 2015; 3 Tsai F. J. et al., J Photochem Photobiol B. 2012; 4 J. H. Herndon et al., J Drugs Dermatol. 2016; 5 J. Klock et al., Int J Cosmet Sci 2005;
6 Trueb. Skin Appendage Disord. 2018; 7 M. H. Kwack et al., Br J Dermatol. 2009.
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