Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Fork Disassembly: WP 4CS Forks Standard Rebuild
Fork Disassembly: WP 4CS Forks Standard Rebuild
Standard Rebuild
NOTE - GOLD VALVES REQUIRE THAT THESE FORKS BE CONVERTED TO AN OPEN-CHAMBER
DESIGN AS OUTLINED IN THE STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE "FORK GOLD VALVE INSTALLATION AND OPEN
CHAMBER CONVERSION".
WP 4CS (Four Chamber) forks have been used in KTM European models since 2013. They were in limited
U.S. models in 2014 and are on most 2015 KTM full sized dirt bikes.
These forks require a special procedure on fork reassembly. The rest is very similar to most modern forks.
Special thanks to Master Suspension Technician Alan "AJ" Peck (yeah, that's his arm).
Shortcuts:
FORK DISASSEMBLY
D1- Back both the Rebound and Compression adjusters out all
the way. These are on the fork caps. Compression is on the left
leg and rebound is on the right.
This step is really for reassembly so the needles are not damaged
in the process.
D13- Remove the seal retainer clip with a clip tool (TSCP 01).
D14- Slide hammer the fork seal and bushings out forcefully.
D15- Tip: You may need to heat the seal/bushing area if the tubes
don't come apart easily during slide hammering. Try slide
hammering after heating the specified area. Use gloves.
D16- Some forks may suffer damage to the Teflon bushings
during disassembly (as shown). Its good to have replacement
bushings on hand, just in case.
D17- Tip - Another way to remove the seal with a minimal chance
of damage to the bushing is to completely fill the fork with used oil,
invert it, remove the wiper and clip, and put it into hydraulic press
to force the seal out.
This seems like it could be a big mess but if the fork is completely
full and there is no compressible air space, the seal pushes out
and a small amount dribbles over the edge.
Once the seal is out it is usually much easier to get the bushing
out.
D19- If you're not replacing seals, use blue masking tape (or
equivalent) to cover the sharp edge of the bushing groove during
removal.
D20- Inspect the fork tube for pits, dings, and straightness.
D22- Remove the adjuster rod from the center of the damping
rods.
FORK ASSEMBLY
A1- Pack the damping rod thread with heavy grease to help
protect the seal. Install rebound rod into cartridge.
A2- Install the spring seat onto the top of the cartridge.
A5- Use the corner of a heavy gage plastic bag and place it on the
end of the fork tube. The will protect the seal from the sharp edges
of the inner bushing groove on the fork tube.
A6- Grease the sealing surface of the wiper with Ultra Slick
Grease.
A7- Slide the wiper over the plastic bag (installation tool). Pull the
bag taught to help the wiper have a smooth ride over the edge.
A10- Slide the seal over the plastic bag. Once again, keep it
taught for easy installation.
A20- If there is space between the cartridge and the fork bottom
(shown in the photo) the cartridge is not full installed.
A21- Install the adjusting rod then temporarily install the cap onto
the rebound rod.
A22- Install the fork cap into the outer fork tube.
A25- Once the oil level gets above the large holes in the end of
the cartridge it will start to fill the chamber on the outside of the
cartridge.
A26- Slightly compress and extend the outer fork tube while
pouring in oil until the bubbles have stopped.
A34- remove the fork cap from the end of the damping rod.
A35- Pour oil into the top chamber of the fork.
A36- Set the tool (TFOL 02) to the correct oil level.
A37- With the Outer Fork Tube bottomed and the Damping Rod
fully extended, set the oil level with the oil level tool.
NOTE - You will need to extend the outer fork tube all the way
before setting the oil level. This is because there is a space
between the inner and outer fork tube. To set the oil level
correctly you must evacuate this area. Extending the fork
tube all the way does this.
A40- On 4CS fork caps the fork spring fits into a 7mm recess. This
recess depth must be considered when calculating the preload.
NEW PIC
FA41- With the adjuster backed out all the way install the cap fully
onto the rod.
A42- Measure from the top of the Outer Fork Tube to the bottom
edge of the Fork Cap. Add 7mm for the recess depth. This is the
Set Length Reference.
If the Set Length is less than the Relaxed Length there is postitve
preload.
The difference between the Relaxed Length and the Set Length is
the preload. Adjust by adding or subtracting preload washers
underneath the spring. This is usually 3 -5mm.
A43-Tighten the jam nut to the fork cap on the damping rod.
new pic
Have fun!
racetech.com