As a textile engineer we have to know about the below topics:

 About textile fiber

 About fiber identification
 About yarn
 About the identification of warp and weft yarn
 About count
 About GSM
 About Apparel
 History of apparel industry
 Garments washing
 Fabric inspection
 Difference or properties of woven and knit fabric.
 About dye (Reactive, Direct, Disperse, Azoic, Sulphur, Vat, Acid , Basic dye)and their
application/ process
 About printing and printing process
 Function of wet processing ingredients

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 Table of Contents
Textile Fiber ........................................................................................................ 2
Yarn .................................................................................................................... 8
GSM Measurement........................................................................................... 16
Apparel............................................................................................................. 17
Garments washing ............................................................................................ 31
Fabric inspection .............................................................................................. 36
Fabric................................................................................................................ 38
Dyeing .............................................................................................................. 40

Textile Fiber
What is Textile?

According to old concept textile means “to weave” but according to modern concept textile
means everything that means weaving, knitting, dyeing, printing, spinning etc.

Fiber:

Fiber is a soft, flexible material that length will be thousands time higher than its diameter.
Generally fibers are used as a raw material of yarn. Sometimes fabric is directly produced from
fiber.

For example: Cotton, Jute, Silk, Wool, Polyester, Nylon, and Acrylic.

Textile fiber properties:

To be a textile fiber the fiber should have some features such as:

1. Certain length

2. Certain strength

3. Certain fineness

4. Crimp

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Classification of textile fiber:

1. Natural fiber

2. Manmade/Synthetic fiber

Natural fiber:

1. Seed fiber(cotton & kapok)

2. Bast fiber(jute, flax)

3. Leaf fiber(sisal, hemp)

4. Animal fiber(wool, silk, camel, alpaca)

5. Fruit fiber(coir, coconut)

6. Mineral fiber(asbestose)

Manmade/Synthetic fiber:

1. Semi synthetic fiber(viscose, rayon)

2. 100% or fully synthetic fiber

100% or fully synthetic fiber:

1. Polyester fiber

2. Polyamide fiber(nylon)

3. Acrylic fiber

4. Spandex fiber

What is spinning?

Spinning is a process by which plant, animal or synthetic fibers are twisted together to form yarn.

Classification of cotton according to staple length:

Staple length (26-65mm): Including the fine lustrous fiber.

Example: Sea Island, Egyptian, American etc.

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Staple length (12-33mm): Including medium strength & medium luster cotton.

Example: American upland

Staple length (9-26mm): Including coarse & low grade fibers.

Example: Bangladeshi, Indian etc.

Why cotton fiber strength increase due to wetting?

Cotton fiber strength greatly affected by moisture. Wet strength of cotton is 20% which is higher
than dry strength of cotton. So more wet more strength of cotton.

Physical properties of cotton:

 Elongation: Cotton does not stretch easily. Its elongation (5-10%).

 Elasticity: (2-5%)
 Strength: 6 CN/Tex
 Effect of moisture: It has a regain of 8.5% & water absorbency (25-27%).

Chemical properties of cotton:

 Effect of acid: Cotton is attacked by hot dilute acids.

 Effect of alkalis: Cotton has an excellent resistance to alkalis
 Effect of micro- organism: Cotton is attacked by fungi & bacteria.

Chemical composition of cotton:

 Cellulose: 96%
 Pectin: 1.2%
 Moisture: 8.5%
 Wax/gum: 1.3%

What is the mechanism of cellulosic fiber?

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  Primary wall: Primary wall is an outer protective layer & it contains wax, protein, pectin
as well as cellulose.
 Secondary wall: Secondary wall is almost full of pure cellulose at least 94%.
 Lumen: Lumen is a liquid and gummy substance. A mature cotton fiber has some little
lumen at the center.

Wool fiber: Wool is a protein fiber which collects from sheep, camel etc. Wool has natural crimp
& heat resistance properties. Shoulder provides the best wool.

Physical properties of wool:

 Elasticity: Good
 Moisture regain: It has a regain of 16%.

Chemical properties of wool:

 Effect of acid: Wool has an excellent resistance to acid.

 Effect of alkalis: Completely decomposed by alkalis.

Silk: It is also a protein fiber which is collect from the cocoon of silk worm. Silk alive by eating
mulberry tree.

Physical properties of silk:

 Elongation: Its elongation (20-25%).

 Elasticity: (3-4%)
 Strength: (30-40) CN/Tex
 Effect of moisture: It has a regain of 11%.

Chemical properties of silk:

 Effect of acid: Decomposed slowly by acids.

 Effect of alkalis: Completely decomposed by alkalis. 
Effect of sunlight: Strength loss.

Spandex/Lycra: Spandex is a stretchy synthetic fiber or fabric known for its exceptional elasticity
because it can be stretched 4-5 times from its original length and also it can come back to its
original length after being released tension. It is strong, but less durable. This is made from
polyurethane polymer. Used especially for close-fitting sports clothing.Lycra its brand name.

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Acrylic fiber: Acrylic is a synthetic fiber which fiber forming substance is very long chain
polyacrylonitrile polymer which consists of 85% acrylonitrile monomer and 15% co-polymer.
Mainly used into knit jersey, carpets, sweater etc.

What is polyester? Tell me its trade name?

Poly means “many” ester means “organic salt”. That means polyester means “many organic salt”.
It is usually composed of polyethylene terephthalate polymers (PET). Its trade name is Dacron,
Tetoron etc.

Physical properties of polyester:

 Plastic nature: Polyester filament is plastic as they elastic.

 Hygroscopic nature: Polyester filament are hydrophobic because lack of polarity &
extreme crystalline structure.

Chemical properties of polyester:

 Effect of bleaches: Not required bleaching if required so that is done by using sodium
chlorite.
 Dye ability: It is very difficult to penetrate dye molecules into the extreme crystalline
polymer. Disperse dyes are used to dye polyester fibers.  Flammability: Burn slowly.

What is viscose: Viscose is a regenerated cellulosic filament fiber. Its solution is thick like honey.

What is regenerated fiber: The fiber which we get by regeneration from its main origin?

Example: Viscose, Acetate, Wool, Silk, Rubber etc.

Viscose can be dissolve by (35-60)% formic acid, Residue like soft ash, smell like paper or wood
burn.

Tell me something about nylon fiber?

Nylon is a thermoplastic & first manmade organic textile fiber. Its forming substance is very long
chain polyamide.

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What is cellulose?

It is a gummy substance which is present in cellulosic fiber like cotton, jute, flax etc. Here are two
types of cellulose such as pectin which is present is cotton and lignin which is present is jute.

Micronaire value: The average weight of 1 inch length of fiber. It is a measure of fiber fineness
and maturity. An airflow instrument is used to measure to micronaire value. A micronaire of 3 or
below is considered high micronaire and mature fiber.

Staple fiber: The fiber which has definite length like cotton.

Filament fiber: The fiber which has indefinite length like polyester.

How can we identify fiber?

I. Burn test: Here we will identify the fiber sample by burning which help us to find out that
the fiber or yarn is 100% cotton, wool, polyester and acrylic or not.
II. Solubility test: Here we will identify the fiber sample by chemical treatment by using
different type of chemical which help us to find out that the fiber or yarn is 100% cotton,
wool, polyester and acrylic or not.

Explain the solubility of fiber and their color, smell?

Fiber Name Chemical Color Smell

Cotton/viscose (70-35)% H SO Grey Paper burn
Wool/Silk 5% N OCL Greyish Hair skin burn
Nylon 20% HCL White Plastic burn
Polyester 100% Meta- White Plastic burn
Cresol
Acrylic/Spandex 100% Di-methyl Grey Light skin burn
form amide
Acetate 100% Acetate Grey Like chemical
acid

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Moisture Regain of Fibers:
Fibre name Moisture Regain (%)

Cotton 8.5

Silk 11

Wool 16

Viscose Rayon 13

Acetate fibre 6.5

Nylon6, 6.6 4

Acrylic fibre 1-2

Polyester(PET) fibre 0.4

Jute 13.75

Flax and hemp 12.75

Yarn

Yarn: Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production
of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, or ropemaking.

Yarn count: Count is a numerical value by which we can define that how fine and coarse the yarn
is?

Two types of count;

 Direct system (Mass per unit length here length is fixed)

 In-direct system (Length per unit mass here weight is fixed)

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Direct system count calculating formula: (weight per unit length-length is fixed)
N= (W×l) / L
Where,
N =Yarn count or numbering system
W =Weight of the sample
L=Length of the sample
l=Unit of length of the sample

In brief, definition of the above Systems is as follows:

Tex system ..........................NO. of grams per 1000 meters
Denier .................................No. of Grams per 9000 meters
Deci Tex ..............................No. of grams per 10,000 metres
Millitex ................................No. of milligrams per 1000 metres
Kilotex............................... .No. of kilograms per 1000 metres.
Jute count........................No. of lb per 14,400 yds
The Tex of a yarn indicates the weight in grammes of 1000 metres yarn. So that 40Tex means 1000
meters of yarn weigh 40gm.
From above discussion it is concluded that, higher the yarn number(count) coarser the yarn and
lower the number finer the yarn.

Example: Tex, denier, jute.

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In-direct system count calculating formula: (length per unit weight-weight is fixed)

N = (L×w) / W×l
Where,
N =Yarn count or numbering system
W =Weight of the sample
L=Length of the sample
l=Unit of length of the sample
w = Unit of weight of the sample.

1. Ne: No of 840 yards yarn weighing in One pound

2. Nm: No of one kilometer yarn weighing in One Kilogram

The Ne indicate show many hanks of 840 yards length weigh one English pound. So that 32 Ne
Means 32 hanks of 840yards i.e.32x840 yards length weigh one pound.

For the determination of the count of yarn, it is necessary to determine the weight of a known
length of the yarn. For taking out known lengths of yarns, a wrap-reel is used. The length of yarn
reeled off depends upon the count system used. One of the most important requirements for a
spinner is to maintain the average count and count variation within control.

Example: Cotton (Ne), Metric (Nm), Worsted count.

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What is Unit of Length & Weight (mass) in direct counting system?
Name of the System Unit of mass Unit of length

Tex Gm. Km

Denier Gm. 9km

Jute Pound(lb.) 14,400 yards (spindle)

What is Unit of Length & Weight (mass) in indirect counting system?

Name of the System Unit of length Unit of mass

Cotton (British or English) 840 yards(hank) Pound(lb.)

Metric 1Km 1Kg

Worsted 560 yards (hank) Pound (lb.)

Count conversion:
For direct to direct system:

We know that for Direct to Direct system,

Unknown count × Unit mass/ Unit length = Given count × Unit mass/ Unit length

Example:

Denier × 1gm/9km = Tex × 1gm/1km

Denier = Tex × 1gm× 9km/ 1gm × 1km

Denier = 9× Tex

For Indirect to Indirect system:

We know that for Indirect to Indirect system,

Unknown count × Unit length/ Unit mass =Given count × Unit length/ Unit mass

Direct to Indirect system:

We know that for Direct to Indirect system,

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Unknown count × Unit mass/ Unit length = 1/Given count × Unit length/ Unit mass

Denier =
.
Tex =

Type of yarn according to length:

 Spun yarn: After twisting staple fiber which length we will get is called spun length. 
Filament yarn: It has indefinite length.

As a textile engineer you have to know some common units:

Units are given below;

1kg = 1000gm, 1lb = 453.6gm, 1km = 1000m, 1m = 1.0936yds, 1yds = 0.9144m, 16 ounces = 1lb,
1lb = 7000grains, 1 ounce = 437.5 grains, 1 gallon = 4.5 litter, 1kg = 2.204 lb.

FLOW CHART FOR CARDED YARN

Input Process Function of M/C Output

Row cotton Blow Room To open the baled fiber into small tuft Lap

Lap Carding Individualized the fiber Card sliver

Card sliver Breaker Draw frame Straighten the fiber Drawn sliver

Drawn sliver Finisher Draw frame Improve fiber uniformity Drawn sliver

Drawn sliver Simplex Make thinner of drawn sliver & insert Roving
small amount of twist into roving

Roving Ring frame Draft the roving, twisted the drafted Yarn(cone)
strand & winding the yarn

Yarn(cone) Finishing Remove dirt Yarn

(package)

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FLOW CHART FOR COMBED YARN

Input Process Output

Row cotton Blow room Lap

Lap Carding Card sliver

Card sliver Pre Comb. Drawing Pre Drawn sliver

Pre Drawn sliver Lap former Lap

Lap Comber Combed sliver

Combed sliver Post Comb. Drawing Post Comb. Sliver

Post Comb. Simplex Roving

Sliver

Roving Ring Frame Combed Yarn

Combed Yarn Cone Winding Yarn

Flow process of rotor yarn:

Fiber

Blow room

Carding

Drawing(Draw
frame-1,2)

Rotor spinning

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Some important definition is given below:

Lap: Lap is a compress layer or sheet of cotton, wool etc.

Sliver: Sliver is a loose, untwisted fibers produce in carding.

Roving: Roving is a collection of relatively fine fibrous strand used in the final process of spinning.

Ginning: Ginning is a process for separating the seed from the cotton fiber.

Lint: Row cotton after ginning is called lint.

Linters: Row cotton still attached to the seed after ginning is called linters.

Importance of row cotton

 Row cotton represents at least (50-75) % manufacturing cost.

 And accounts for (80-90) % of the yarn quality.

Carding:

It’s the heart of spinning process by which individualization of fiber is done also remove dirt, dust,
neps etc.

What is combing?
Combing is a process by which we can separate short fiber below a pre-determined length. Its
main objective is to straighten/parallelization of the fiber.

Why we remove short fiber by comber machine?

The short fibers are removed because it can cause thick and uneven surface in the yarn as a result
it produces more hairiness.

What do you mean by hook fiber?

The undesirable bending of a fiber end is called hook fiber. It can be happen in carding machine
during web formation. It reduces the long fiber length. We can remove it by comber and draw
frame machine.

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What do you mean by noil fiber?
The short fiber extracted during the combing action is known as noil. Noil percentage (10-20) %.

What is draft?
Draft is a process by which we can reduce the weight per unit length of sliver and make it suitable
for ring spinning system.

Brand name of cotton fiber:

Brand name Country

Pima USA

Raja CIS

Giza Egypt

Andy Australia

SUV in India

Delta Bangladesh

Whatis carded & combed yarn?

After combing which yarn we get is called combed yarn. There is no neps, hairiness, fault etc.
High quality yarn.

On the other hand carded is low quality yarn because it contains neps, hairiness etc.

Difference between Z & S twists yarn?

Middle portion of yarn look like the letter of Z is called Z-twist produce by ring spinning machine.
Yarn quality is high.

Middle portion of yarn look like the letter of S is called S-twist produce by rotor spinning machine.
Yarn quality is low.

What do you mean by 30, 40, 50,60,70,75 denier?

Weight of 9000 meter yarn is equal to (30, 40, 50, 60, 70, and 75) gm.

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What do you mean by 30, 40, 50,60,70,75 Tex?

Weight of 1000 meter yarn is equal to (30, 40, 50, 60, 70, and 75) gm.

What do you mean by 30, 40, 50,60,70,75 Ne (Cotton count)?

Weight of (30, 40, 50, 60, 70, and 75) hank (840 yards) yarn is equal to 1 pound.

Yarn fault:
 Slub
 Hairiness
 Uneven
 Neps

GSM Measurement
What do you mean by GSM measurement?

GSM is a measurement of fabric weight. GSM means Gram per Square Meter that means weight of
one square meter fabric in gram. GSM is measured by GSM cutter by following equation;

 GSM =Sample weight × Diameter constant

Here, diameter constant depends on the diameter of GSM cutter. Its formula is given below;

 Diameter constant = 4*10/pai d2

 For knitted fabric GSM=wpi*cpi*sl(mm)/count(Ne)*840


 For Woven fabric GSM = × Crimp% + × Crimp%

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How we can calculate below term?

Wales per inch: At first we will take a 10 inch fabric. Then unroll the yarn and divided the total
yarn by 10 inch. So finally we get the wales per inch.

Course per inch: At first we will take a 5 inch fabric. Then unraveling the yarn and divided the
total yarn by 5 inch. So finally we get the course per inch.

Picks per inch: The number of weft threads per inch.

Ends per inch: The number of warp threads per inch.

What is stitch length? When we will straight a total loop then which length we will get this length
is called stitch length. Its unit is mm.

How can we identify warp and weft threads of a fabric?

 The direction of selvedge is wrap direction.

 In most cases EPI is more than PPI.
 Warp yarn is finer than weft yarn.
 Warp yarn contains size particle and relatively hairy.
 Weft yarns crimp percentage is more than warp.

Apparel
Apparel Manufacturing: The process by which we can produce apparel.

What is the history of apparel industry in Bangladesh?

 In 1960 Riaz garments established which export only local garments. But in 1973 it
changed its name to Riaz Garments Ltd. & started to export by selling 10,000 pieces of
shirt to France.
 In 1979 Desh garments Ltd. establish which the first joint venture industry in Bangladesh.
 In 1980, Young one (49%) &trexim (51%) equity formed a company named young one
Bangladesh which exported padded & non padded jackets to Sweden.
 In 1982 there were only 47 apparel industries.
 But 1984-85 there were 587, & 1999 there were 2900 apparel industry in the country.
 Now the number of apparel industry in Bangladesh is 6,600.
 Average growth rate of garment export is 22%.

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What is the difference between textile and garments?

Textile meaning everything relating to fabric.

Garments: Garments refer to the product which generally wears that means it covers/protect
human-body.
Clothing: Clothing refers to the finish piece of fabric that can be used for the purpose of body or
bed.

Sewing: Sewing is a process by which we can join the fabric by the use of needle and thread. Its
main purpose is to produce seam.

Seam: Seam is a line of joining fabric or a stitch line where fabrics are joined together which is
done by various fabric arrangements.

Properties of a good seam:

 Smooth fabric joints.

 Even stitches.
 Stitch should be in required areas.
 Stitch variation is not allowed.
 Achievement of strength, elasticity, Durability, security and comfort.

Seam types: We have 8 types of seam.

1. Seam class-1: Super imposed seam- 2 or more pcs sewing

2. Seam class-2: Lapped seam-2 or more overlapping pcs sewing
3. Seam class-3: Bound seam-finish an edge of garments
4. Seam class-4: Flat seam-2 pcs fabric sewing
5. Seam class-5: Decorative seam-1 or more stitch 1or more layer
6. Seam class-6: Edge neatening-edge cutting stitching
7. Seam class-7 (Attaching of separate items)
8. Seam class-8 (Single ply construction)- 1pcs fabric used

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Stitch types: We have six types of stitch that are given below;

Stitch class-100(Single thread chain stitch)

Stitch class-200(Hand stitch)

Stitch Stitch class-300(Lock stitch)

Stitch Class-400(Multi-thread chain stitch)

Stitch class-500(Over edge stitch)

Stitch class-600(Covering chain stitch)

 Open seam
 Broken stitch
Sewing problem:

 Skip stitch
 Seam pucker(Wrinkle appearance on the seam line)

 Broken stitch

 Uneven stitch

 Joint up down

 Loose stitch

 Pleat

 Double stitch

 Raw edge

 Needle thread breakage

 Imbalanced

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What are the garments manufacturing sequence?

Idea generation

↓
Design / Sketching

↓
Pattern Design

↓
Sample Making

↓
Production Pattern

↓
Grading

↓
Marker Making

↓
Spreading

↓
Cutting

Sewing

↓
Finishing

↓
Final Inspection

↓
Packing& delivery

01928-460609
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Pattern: Pattern is a hard paper is which we draw different parts of a garment according to its
measurement. It also include seam allowance, trimming allowance, dirt’s, and pleats. Pattern is
used to cut fabric.

Two types of pattern:

1) Block pattern: Block pattern indicates the original pattern. It is made on the basis of
standard body measurement without any design or style.
2) Working pattern: Working pattern is derived from the flat or modeling methods with
sewing, trimming, design & style.

Some important definition related to pattern making that is given below;

 Darts: Darts means to eliminate excessive fabric in a pattern so that it can be formed into
3 dimensional.
 Grain line: Pattern pieces normally carry a line is called grain line. It can be length wise
direction or parallel to the warp or wale which determined by the designer.
 Drill holes: Drill holes are small holes into the pattern especially in pocket which indicate
the other components should be superimposed.
 Notches: Notches are cut into the pattern which indicate a point that the other garment
component to be jointed together.

How can we make a pattern by digitizing system?

 At first a base pattern must be digitized in the system & select each corner of the pattern.
After this the line of the pattern will be show on the screen. Finally we get the pattern.

To make a pattern which instruction you have to maintain?

 Name of the pattern (Sleeve)
 Style( 2637)
 Size( M)
 Grain direction( )
 Balance mark( After sewing the exact length of the pattern)
 Seam allowance( The line of joining of fabric)

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Marker making: Marker is a thin paper in which all the pattern pieces are arranged so that we
can get different size garments with minimum fabric wastage. Generally marker is placed on the
fabric which will be cut for sewing. We have 8 types of marker.

Objectives of marker making:

 Marker is used as a cutting guide for fabric.

 Reduced fabric wastage by using marker.
 It saves time and cost.

What is marker efficiency?

Marker efficiency is the ratio between the area covered by pattern pieces in the marker & the
total area of the marker paper. It is expressed by %. Marker efficiency may be (80-85) % and its
length may be (400-750) cm.

Marker Efficiency=total area used in the marker/total area of the marker*100%

Tell me the factors which influencing marker efficiency?

 Marker length: More length more marker efficiency.

 Fabric characteristics: Usually symmetrical fabric provides higher marker efficiency than
non- symmetrical fabric.
 Size of the garments: Smaller & larger size of the garment lead to less marker efficiency
& medium size of the garment gives higher efficiency.
 Marker width: More width more marker efficiency because easier to marker plan.

What are marker mode/ planning?

Marker mode is determined by the symmetry & directionality of fabric.

There are four type of marker mode.

I. Nap-either-way: In this way just maintaining grain line.

II. Nap-one-way: In this way just maintaining one direction.
III. Nap-up & down way: In this way one side can be place on the marker in one direction &
another side placed in opposed direction.
IV. Group way: In this way just maintaining side to side direction that means the garment
are laid together.

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What will be the lay height of a fabric?

Normally height of the lay/fabric is limited up to maximum six inches high. But 4 inch to 5 inch
height of the lay is safe. Which depends on thickness of fabric? Single jersey fabric ply is ( 100-
120), rib & double jersey is (50-60).

Interlining: Interlining is a layer of fabric inserted between the two layers of a garment. It is
also considered as an accessory.

Why we use interlining?

 To retain actual shape of the garments components.

 To make the garments beautiful, strong & attractive.
 To get better hand feel & performance.

What is lining?

It is the outer layer of garments which is used into back moon, water proof jacket etc.

Why polyester coated interlining is ideal interlining?

 It is both that means dry cleanable & water washable.

 This type of resin can be applied in all kinds of fabric.

What should be the required time, temperature & pressure for fusing?

 Time: Fusing time should be control between (5-20) s.

 Temperature: Temperature should be maintained between (150-175)℃.

 Pressure: Pressure should be uniform & sufficient during fusing.

Why polyester fiber thread is ideal than cotton?

Polyester is generally strong, durable, and colorfast because it is made from filament but it has a
problem that is, this thread is not soft so there is a change to tear the fabric. On the other hand
cotton thread is soft but not so strong if we compare with polyester because it is made from spun
yarn.

Merchandising:

Garments merchandising means buying raw materials, accessories, producing garments,

maintaining required quality and exporting the product within schedule time.

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The person who is related in merchandising is called merchandiser who handles the foreign
buyers and acts as a seller.

Finally we can say that merchandisers are the bridge between industry and the buyers.

Flow chart of merchandising:

Contact with buyer (Collect news from EPB)

Receive enquiry sheet (Where indicate target price, measurement, what type of goods he/she
wants etc.)

Sample develop

Consumption of material

Costing of material with CM (Price coding)

Negotiate with buyer

Order sheet receive (Where all information should be include such as color, size, carton,
measurement, amount of garments etc.)

Receive master L/C

Booking fabric and accessories

Open back to back L/C (Booking fabric and accessories with the help of master L/C maximum
70%)

Sample approving

Receive fabric and accessories

Swatch card making and approval (Where we will attach all garments sample so that every
sector can use same goods)

Approval for bulk production

24
 Pre-production meeting (PPM) [Where 4 person should be present PM, merchandiser, buyer,
Quality person]

Start bulk production with test cutting

Line inspection

Ex-work

Pre-shipment inspection (PSI)

Shipment

 Test cutting: Bulk production start with test cutting that means making small amount of
product such as from 1, 00,000 piece to 200 piece garments.
 Pre and post order merchandising: Pre order merchandising is before master L/C receive
and than post order merchandising.
 SOP (Standard Operating Procedure): They provide it so that we cannot change product.
To ensure same goods.

Basic quality of a merchandiser:

 Good command in ‘’English’’ because you have to negotiate with foreign buyer.
 Adequate knowledge on technical term such as SOP, GSP, PPM, PSI, CM, CMT etc. for
accurate and efficient communication with buyer.
 Good knowledge on fiber, yarn, fabric, dyeing, printing, finishing, embroidery, dyes and
chemicals, color fastness, accessories, garments production etc.
 Good knowledge on garments inspection system.
 Must be known about computer literacy-mail, and internet.
 Right consumption and costing knowledge.
 Order getting ability.

Consumption: Quantity of raw materials for making complete garments such as amount of fabric,
sewing thread, button, label, and other accessories.

Costing: Amount for making a complete garment.

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There are two costing process;

a) Direct cost: Direct costs are the costs that are directly involve to the production of a
specific goods.

Example: Fabric cost, accessories cost, labor cost etc.

b) Indirect cost: Indirect costs are the costs that are not directly involve to the production of
a specific goods. Indirect costs are (15-20) %.

Example: Labor transport cost, electricity cost, security, building rent etc.

Causes of seam pucker?

 Unequal stitch on fabric
 Fabric dimensional instability
 Sewing thread tension

Counting of button:
Button is counted by Gross (G) or Great Gross (GG).

1 Gross = 12 dozen = 12 x 12 = 144 pcs.

1 Great Gross = 12 Gross = 12 x 12 x 12 = 1728 pcs.

N.B: 12 x 1 dozen (12 pcs) = 12 x 12 Textile

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care symbol:

Convert ‘’Tex’’ number to ‘’Ticket’’ number:

‘’Ticket’’ number = x3

AQL

AQL: Maximum percentage of defect that can be accepted on a particular sample size. Test

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IPC: Initial production check such as fabric fault

PPC: Pre-production check such as pattern, marker fault

Du. PC: During production check such as sewing fault

FRI: Final random inspection such as finished garments fault

Garments defects:

Chemical test (All color fastness & shrinkage test) Visual test

IPC PPC Du.PC FRI

Three types of defects area present in garments. That are given below;

1. Critical defects: The defects which is unsafe, hazardous for the end user is called critical
defects. Example: Needle break, azo group etc.
2. Major defects: The defects which reduce the functionality, usability, marketability of the
garments. Example: Any stitching problem, button problem etc.
3. Minor defects: The defects which are not affected the garments but it can damage
product quality. Example: Joining of label problem, spot etc.

Sample: Sample is a reference garments which is done by designer. If required any correction
such as style, design, measurement, size sample are made. We have at least 11 sample.

Why shrinkage takes place?

Due to tension and swelling of yarn.

Common Abbreviations for Garments Technology

1. BGMEA = Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association
2. BKMEA = Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association
3. BTMA = Bangladesh Textile Mills Association
4. BTMC = Bangladesh Textile Mills Corporation
5. BGWUC = Bangladesh Garments Worker Unit Council
6. WTO = World Trade Organization
7. AQL = Acceptable Quality Level
8. LDC = Least Developed Country
9. CBL = Center Back Line
10. CFL = Center Front Line
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11. FOB = Free On Board
12. GOB = Government Of Bangladesh
13. GPT = Garments Performance Test
14. C & F = Cost & Freight
15. CIF = Cost, Insurance and Freight
16. EPB = Exporter Promotion Bureau
17. CMT = Cost of Making with Trimming
18. CMO = Cost of Making Order
19. NSA = No Seam Allowance
20. BL = Bill of Lading
21. CO = Certificate of Origin
22. L/C = Letter of Credit
23. BTB L/C = Back to Back L/C
24. UD = Utilization Declaration
25. UP = Utilization Permission
26. AAQC = American Association of Quality Control
27. LCA = Letter of Credit Authorization
28. PSI = Pre-Shipment Inspection
29. M and W = Men and Women
30. W and G = Women and Girl
31. XL = Extra Large (Size)
32. L = Large (Size)
33. M = Medium (Size)
34. S = Small (Size)
35. CAD = Computer Aided Design
36. CAM = Computer Aided Manufacturing
37. PTS = Primary Textile Sector
38. GDP = Growth Domestic Product
39. ISO - International Organization for Standardization
40. GSP = Generalized System of Preferences
41. GATT = Generalized Agreement on Tariffs and Taxes
42. MFA = Multi Fiber Arrangement
43. EPB = Export Promotion Bureau
44. FY = Financial Year
45. BY = Bas Year
46. PTI = Private Textile Industry
47. VAT = Value Added Tax
48. TUF = Technology Upgradation Fund
49. ETP = Effluent Treatment Plan
50. UNIDO = United Nation International Development Organization
51. P/C = Polyester + Cotton
52. T/C = Textron + Cotton
53. BQSP = Bangladesh Quartet Support Programmed
54. MOT = Ministry of Textile
55. MOC = Ministry of Commerce
56. BFQ = Better Fisheries Quality

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57. FAS = Free Alongside Ship
58. CNF = Clearing & Forwarding
59. BWTG = Better Worker in Textile Garments
60. EU = European Union
61. EPI = Ends Per Inch
62. PPI = Picks Per Inch
63. UNEC = United Nations Economic and Development Commission
64. TU = Trade Union
65. UNDP = United Nations Development Programme
66. ILO = International Labor Organization
67. IFTU = International Federation of Trade Union
68. IMF = International Monetary Fund
1. GB = Great Britain
2. GM = General Manager
3. AGM = Assistant General Manager
4. PO = production Officer
5. PM = Production Manager
6. CEO = Chief Executive Officer
7. BE = Bachelor of Engineering

Difference Between Knit Fabric and Woven Fabric:

SL Knit Fabric Woven Fabric
No.
01 Produced by using one set of yarn. It is produced by using two sets of yarn.
02 It has higher elastic properties. Elastic properties not more than knit
fabric.
03 It needs less labor cost during manufacturing. Higher labor cost than knit fabric
manufacturing.
04 It is comfortable to put on. It is not more comfortable than knit
fabric.
05 It has high extensibility properties. It has lower extensibility characteristics.
06 Knit fabric has higher recovery Woven fabric has lower recovery
characteristics. properties.
07 It has no dimensional stability. Woven fabric has dimensional stability.
08 Finishing is advantageous in knit fabric. In case of woven fabric, finishing is not
advantageous.
09 It requires stretch stiches, like zig zags. It is easy to sew on and feed through a
sewing machine.
10 Wrinkle resistant. Hold a crease well.
11 No seam finish is required. Requires seam finishing, like serging, to
prevent ravel.
12 Edges curl and some knits run. Edges are prone to ravel.
13 Cool and breathable. Thick and wind resistant.
14 Most stretch is either in the cross grain or the Most stretch is always on the bias
bias. (diagonal stretch).

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 Woven fabric Non – woven fabric
woven fabric is made with cotton, wool, silk, made out of polypropylene (abbreviated to PP),
linen, ramie, hemp, leather etc. PET, PA, viscose, acrylic fibers, HDPE, PVC and
etc.

The woven fabric is weaved with looms by The nonwoven has no weft and warp yarn that
interlacing warp and weft threads doesn't need to be interlaced or knitted.

the woven cloth appears more durable Less durable

More degradability
The woven fabrics are strong and structurally
sound, widely used to create various kinds of
clothes, bedding sets, sofa, towels and etc.
Less degradability
The nonwoven fabric are lightweight and eco-
friendly, widely used for such as surgical gown,
facial masks, diapers, wallpaper, industrial
filters, shopping bags and so on

Garments washing

Washing: Washing is a chemical process by which we can remove the impurities like dirt, dust,
spot, soil mark etc. from garments. Those are attached during manufacturing garments such as
during cutting we can see lot of dust on the other hand during sewing we can see oil spot on the
garments.

Objects of garments washing:

1) To develop softness in garments
2) To introduce fading effect
3) To create new fashion

Limitations of garments washing:

Like other processes the garments washing is also not without some limitations. They included as
below-

 Garments size change

 Size material is partly removed

 Rough surface of garmen

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Flow process of garments washing:

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Chemical used in washing:
Chemical name Function
Enzyme 1. To reduce hairiness from garments.
2. To produce fading effect on the
garments.
3. To increase the performance next
process.
Detergent(Soap) 1. To remove impurities.
2. To increase the spreading and wetting
ability of water so that washing
chemical can penetrate easily.
Caustic soda,NaOH 1. To produce less color fading effect on
the garments.
2. To control the pH of the washing
solution.
Acetic acid,CH₃COOH 1. To neutralize the garments.
2. To restore the garments from bacteria.

Bleaching powder,H2O2 1. Remove natural grey color and produce

a white effect.
2. To produce fading effect on the
garments.

Softener(silicone) 1. To increase smoothness of

Soda ash, Na2CO3
Potassium permanganate,KMnO4
OBA,TiO2
Sodium hydrosulphite, Sodium metasulphite
the garments.
2. To improve slippery effect on the
garments.
1. To produce effective bond between
washing chemical and garments.
2. To reduce hydrolysis of
washing chemical.
To develop final color during steaming.
To increase the brightness on garments.
To neutralize the garments.

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Anti-Back staining agent: The basic problem in For reducing back stainingin de-sizing and
enzymatic washing of denim is back- staining garment processing specially for denims.
of detached indigo dyes on fabric surface. Additives (Magnesium and aluminum oxide)
Back staining mainly occurs during de-sizing or are used as back staining agent.
stone washing or enzyme stone washing.

Equipment used in washing:

Washing machine Hydro-extractor

Drying machine
Pin attached

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 Sand paper Pumic stone

Type of washing:

 Wet process (Acid wash, bleach wash, enzyme wash etc.)

 Dry process (Sand blasting, grinding, destroying, whiskering etc.)

Washing faults:
1) Back staining mainly occurs during stone and enzyme wash.
2) Uneven washing due to pH control especially during enzyme wash.Standard pH for
washing is (4-7.5).
3) Fabric damage due to more blowing angle, over blasting during sand blasting, P.P spray
and over grinding. Blowing angle should be (10-20)℃.
4) Crease mark can tales place due to more machine RPM. Standard RPM for washing
machine is (28-32).
5) Color shade variation for improper use of washing chemical.

Difference between garments dyeing and garments tinting?

Garments dyeing
Garments’ dyeing is a process by which we
can apply color on grey garments after
making the garments by grey fabric.
Pre-treatment is required.
Large amount of dyes is used.
To create fading effect and change the
outlook appearance on the garments.
Garments tinting
Garments tinting is overdyeing on finish fabric.
Pre-treatment isn’t required.
Small amount of dyes is used.
To increase out-look appearance.

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Pumic stone: Pumic stone collect from the volcanic action which is given during washing ½ of
fabric weight.

SMV: Standard Minute Value. It is a standard time for completing a process by using best possible
method. Pre-determined calculated time.

SAM: Standard Allowed Minute. SAM is SMV + Allowance. Actual calculated time.

Fabric inspection
Fabric inspection is a process by which we can detect the fault into finish fabric. It is done
randomly by taking 10% fabric from total fabric.

Objectives of fabric inspection:

 To detect the fault into finish fabric.
 To take decision that we will used this fabric or not for cutting after inspection.
 To determine the quality of fabric that means the fabric is A grade, B grade or C grade.
 Minimize the wastage.
 Increase product quality and productivity.

For inspection 4.0 point system is best because we allow here fewer faults.

What is 4.0 point system?

It is called 4-Point System because it assigns with 1, 2, 3 and maximum 4 penalty points for defects
according to the size, quality and significance of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points is
assigned for any single defect. Defect can be measured either length or width direction.

Principle of 4.0 point system:

If penalty point per 100 sq. yards is less than 40 then the fabric is accepted on the other-hand if
penalty point is more than 40 then the fabric is not accepted for cutting.

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Working procedure of 4.0 point system:
Suppose we have 1000 fabric roll, so we need to be select 10% fabric roll randomly that means
100 rolls from total fabric that means from 1000 rolls.

Procedure:
 At first take a fabric roll.
 Then spread it on cutting table.
 After that identify fabric faults and put on it arrow sticker that can be red or white.
 Measure the length of each fault. Example are given below;
1. Slub = 2.5’’
2. Shadding = 19’’
3. Hole = 1’’
 Score the penalty point, to do this we should follow the table;

Defect length Penalty point

0’’-3’’ 1
Over 3’’-6’’ 2
Over 6’’-9’’ 3
Over 9’’ 4
For hole, Up to 1’’ 2
Over 1’’ 4

Formula of 4.0 point system:

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Penalty per 100 sq. yards=

Fabric

Weaving process:

Yarn collect
from spinning mill Weft
yarn

Winding/Pre winding (Cone, pirn winding

etc.)

Warping

Sizing (Warp yarn)

Drafting/Drawing
(Passing of yarn through drop wire/heald
eye)

Denting (Passing of yarn through reed)

Looming

Weaving

Woven fabric: Plain fabric (Shirt, Muslin cloth), Twill fabric (Jeans 2/2, Gabardine 2/10), Satin
fabric (Ribbon, Curtains, and Gowns), Braid fabric (Matt, Lace Ropes).

Knitting process:

Yarn collect from spinning mill

Cree-ling (Place the yarn into creel)

Feeding the yarn into m/c by positive feeder, tension device, yarn guide etc.

Set the m/c as per design & GSM

Finally knitting the fabric in tabular form

Withdraw the fabric & weighting

Inspection
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Knitted fabric:

Weft knit: Single jersey fabric/plain knitting (T-shirt, Hosiery), Double jersey fabric/Rib (Collar,
Cuff, Socks), Interlock (Sportswear, Trouser, Underwear).

Warp knit: Net, Lingerie, gloves, eveningwear etc.

Non-woven process:

Raw material (Fiber that can be collect directly or from polymer)

Carding ( Card sliver)

Batt formation ( Sheet web)

Bonding ( Needle punching)

Apply resin by spray

Heating

Non-woven (Roll form)

Non-woven fabric: All types of bags, Baby diapers, Bandage, Caps, Carpets, Shoe covers, Draw
strings. Tapes, Table cloths etc.

Properties of woven and knit fabric.

Woven fabric is made of two set of yarn as a result its structure is compact so no possibility of
shrinkage.

Knit fabric is made of one set of yarn as a result its structure is imbalance, so there is possibility
to shrinkage.

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 Dyeing
Dyeing: Dyeing is a process by which we can produce color on the fabric surface. Dyeing can be
done on the whole fabric surface where only one color is used.

Application of Dyes

Name of Dyes Application

Acid dye Manmade fiber (Nylon), Natural

fiber (Silk, Wool)

Basic dye Jute, Acrylic

Vat dye Manmade fiber (Viscose), Natural

fiber (Cotton, Silk, Wool)

Disperse dye Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Tri-acetate, Di-acetate

Direct Dye Manmade fiber (Viscose),

Natural fiber (Cotton)

Reactive dye Cotton, Wool, Silk, Viscose, Nylon

Sulfur dye Cotton, Viscose

Mordant dye Cotton, Wool, Silk

Pigment Cotton, Manmade fiber

N.B

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 1. Acid, basic & disperse dye is not suitable for cotton.
2. Direct, disperse, basic & sulfur dye is not suitable for wool& silk.
3. Vat, direct, reactive & sulfur dye is suitable for cotton.
4. Disperse dye is suitable for mam-made fiber.
5. Reactive dye is suitable for cellulosic fiber.

Reactive dye:
Reactive dye is a dye that can react directly with the fabric that means a chemical reaction
happens between the dye and the molecules of the fabric. As this dye at first react with the fabric
and then produce color that’s why it is permanent dye.

Why reactive dye is best for cotton dyeing?

 Reactive dye is suitable for cellulosic fibers and produce permanent color by covalent
bond between dye and fiber.
 Reactive dyes have good fastness properties.

That’s why reactive dyes are most commonly used for dyeing cotton fiber.

Dyeing mechanism of reactive dye:

The dyeing mechanism of material with reactive dye takes place in 3 stages:-

 Exhaustion of dye in presence of electrolyte or dye absorption.

 Fixation under the influence of alkali.
 Wash-off the unfixed dye from material surface.

What is direct dye?

Direct dye is water soluble anionic dye.

Why it is anionic dye? It is anionic dye because in reaction the anionic part is take place.

Why direct dye is so called direct dye?

Direct dyes have direct affinity towards cellulosic fiber (cotton, viscose) & it can be applied
directly in fiber without help of any assistant.

What is self-leveling direct dye?

These dyes are capable of dyeing without help of any other chemical.

What is after treatment?

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After treatment is a process which is applied for increasing for fastness properties of dyed
material after dyeing.

Which type of factor is responsible for the dye exhaustion of fiber?

Time, Temperature, material liquor ratio, P etc.

What is vat dye?

Vat dyes are water insoluble cationic dye.

Why it is so called vat dye?

The dye is named from the container vat that’s why it is called vat dye.

You know that vat dye is water insoluble so how can we soluble it?

We can make the soluble of vat dyes by applying strong reducing agent (Hydrose) by vating
process.

Which type of dye we use in denim industry?

Most of the denim industries of our country use vat dye because of rubbing fastness properties.

Tell me some properties of vat dyes?

 Washing & perspiration properties of vat dyes are so good. 

Light fastness properties of vat dyes are extremely good.

What is acid dye?

Acid dyes are water soluble anionic dye.

Which types of fiber we can dye by acid dye?

By acid dye we can dye protein fiber like wool, silk etc. because it has direct affinity towards
protein fiber.

What is basic dye?

Basic dyes are water soluble cationic dyes.

Which types of fiber we can dye by basic dye?

By basic dye we can dye bast fiber like jute, acrylic fiber because it has direct affinity towards
this fiber.

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Some dyeing faults are given below;
Technical deficiency/fault of reactive dye:

Hydrolysis of dye: Hydrolysis is the main problem in dyeing with reactive dye. The reaction of dye
with water is called hydrolysis. It is happen when the dye solution kept for long time.

Remedies of deficiency: Wash the fabric with soap and soda ash at right temperature.

Technical deficiency/fault of sulfur dye:

Bronziness and tendering: Bronziness and tendering is the main problem when dyeing with sulfur
dye. It can be happen when the material are kept for long time into dye bath. It also can be due
to excessive heat, dyestuff and presence of ion as an impurity.

Remedies of deficiency: Treatment the dyed fabric with dilute solution of Na S at 30℃.

Technical deficiency/fault of disperse dye: Levelness dyeing is the main problems when dyeing
with disperse dye.

Remedies of deficiency: Treatment the dyed fabric with leveling agent.

Why curing is done after printing?

Curing' prints means making them permanent, so that the fabric cannot be washed. The main
objective of curing is to increase the color fastness.

Why there is increase in luster of yarn after mercerization?

We know that cotton fiber swells in strong caustic soda solution, which change its cross section
from kidney shape to almost circular shaped. As a result lumen becomes smaller and cell wall
becomes greater for this reason strength of cotton fiber increased also fabric surface become
fine and light reflectance on fabric is consistently that’s why luster increased.

Printing: Printing is a process by which we can produce color on the fabric surface at some specific
place according to its design. Printing is applicable only for fabric where single or multicolor can
be used only one side of fabric.

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Stripping: Stripping is a process by which we can remove color from fabric surface by sodium
hydrosulphite.

Singeing: Singeing is a mechanical process by which we can remove hairy fiber from fabric or
yarn surface by burning or heating process.

Objectives of singeing

 To remove hairy fiber from fabric surface

 To improve the quality of fabric
 To clean & increasing smoothness of fabric
 Increasing luster & fabric strength

By drop test we can say that singeing takes place or not.

Bio-polishing: Bio-polishing is a chemical process by which we remove hairy or loose fiber from
fabric surface by the enzymatic action of cellulose.

Objectives of bio-polishing

 To remove hairy or loose fiber.

 To make the fabric softer & smoother.
 To reduce the pilling tendency of cloths.

Limitation:Fabric will be weak after bio-polishing process.

De-sizing:De-sizing is the first process of finishing that means to remove the sizing materials
from the warp yarn as well as woven fabric.

Objectives of de-sizing

 To remove size material from fabric surface.

 To improve the water absorbency of woven fabric.

What is the modern de-sizing process?

Enzymatic de-sizing: It is an enzymatic process where amylase enzyme is used to remove the size
material from yarn as well as fabric by enzymatic action.

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By iodine test we can say that de-sizing takes place or not.

Flow chart for textile wet processing

Woven fabric collection from weaving industry

Woven fabric inspection

Singeing

De-sizing

Scouring

Bleaching

Dyeing Mercerizing Printing

Finishing

Final inspection

Finish fabric delivery into garments industry

Do you know why is so called universal bleaching agents?

 Both protein & cellulosic fiber can be bleaching.
 Further scouring isn’t required because it is done at high temperature.
 Permanent whiteness is produce.
 Fiber damage is less.

What is color fastness?

Color fastness refers to the resistance of color to fade or bleed of dyed or printed textile materials
to various type of influence such as water, washing, rubbing, light, perspiration etc.

What is grey scale?

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Grey scale is a numerical scale which contains a series of pairs of neutrally colored chips, which
showing increasing contrast between colors.

There are two types of grey scale;

 Grey scale for color change.
 Grey scale for staining.

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