Function &

Details
Akanksha Sobti (5000013037)
 Contents
1.Module Descriptor
2.Garment Analysis
3.Types of finishes - seams, hems & neck finishes
4.Pin & Space Tucks
5.Dart to form generation & exploration
6.Seam displacement & elimination as detail
7.Dart as a detail
8.Gathers as a detail
9.Pleats as a detail
10.Garment Components as a detail - collar, cuff, neckline, slits,
openings, fasteners & pockets
11.Tech Pack
12.Pinterest Board link
13. Deselected Explorations
14. Self Reflection
15. Bibliography
Module
Descriptor
The module will enhance the analytical and making skills by
encouraging us to explore, experiment the potential of existing
technical/execution skills. This subject will help us to discover the
creativity developing new practical, analytical, and interpretative skills
through exploratory and versatile approaches towards role and function
of details in fashion apparels. It will help to design highly functional,
detailed products and preparing a tech pack as per industry standards.
Expanding making skills and creativity further and equip us to develop
and sample with different fabrics and suitable construction methods
and presenting our ideas for production. With this module we will
evaluate and apply effective techniques and tools to deliver innovative
and relevant outcomes, explore different construction method and
creative outcomes using imaginative and iterative methods of enquiry,
exhibit the integration of creative and professional competence and use
of appropriate materials, media, techniques, and tools and exhibit
effective organisational qualities with appropriate work ethics and
professional values.
 Garment Analysis
High neck band

Gathers on neck
to give volume set in Bishop
full sleeves

Loose fit ;
almost like
balloon
Gathers on
wrist; without
cuff or wrist
band.
Gathers on
waist to give
volume; Under
bust lenght

Fabric used - Satin

Gather detail on shoulder

set in Virago sleeves with

Camisole neckline
4 gathered section detail

overlapping gather detail

on bust

Fitted base bodice ;

midriff length

Frilled cuff

Fabric used - Georgette

 V neckline

Set in full sleeve

Bust with gather detail

Button detail in centre
front
Corseted waist detail;
midriff length
Plain cuff with gather
detail

Fabric used - Satin

 Deep Plunge neckline

Set in exaggerated
puffed full sleeve
Fitted top with center
waist darts

Big Knife pleated skirt

Plain cuff with gather

detail

A line dress with above

the knee length

Fabric used - Poly blend

High neckline with ribbed
detail

Set in leg o'Mutton full

Plain fitted bodice sleeve

Ribbed detail on hem;

midriff length

Big Plain cuff with ribbed

detail

Fabric used - Cashmere

Types of
Finishes
Seams finishes

A seam is a term that refers to the stitching line where two

fabrics are stitched together. It is the basic building block of a
garment. Seams form the structure of the garment and help to
create the garment. They are also used as a decorative feature.

Different types of seams are used to give different finishes.

Finishing of a seam is given to give the garment stability,
strength and to avoid fraying of the fabric.

Types of seam are discussed and sampled further.

In a Plain seam, two fabrics
are joined together along the
seam line by a line of
stitching. This is the simplest
and easiest seam to make
and can be made by hand or
machine using straight
stitches. It does not bulk.
A topstitching seam is a
strong seam as well as a
decorative one.To get this
effect, after plain seam is
done, press both the seam
allowances to one side
and give top stitching on
the right side.
This is the best seam for sheer
fabrics as this seam encloses
the raw edges in a fold, the raw
edges are not seen from outside
without adding much bulk. This
seam is usually done on straight
edges but can also be done on
curved edges.
Flat felled is mostly used
in sports wear, men’s
shirts, jeans kids clothes,
pyjamas etc. It provides
adequate strength to the
seam line. This seam can
be stitched inside as well
as outside the garment.
Unlike the flat fell seam here
the raw edge is not turned
under, this seam will have
exposed raw edges of the
seams on the wrong side.
Hence it is used with fabrics
which do not fray or where
the seam will not be seen.
This is a great seam for a
bulky fabric.
This is a very useful seam
when sewing with heavy
fabrics like suede,
artificial leather, felt. It is
used for its functional as
well as decorative
properties.
In this seam, a fabric-covered
cording is inserted between the
seam line. It is a decorative
seam and is mostly used in
collars, cuffs, pockets and
home decorating fabrics.
A bias bound seam is a
seam that is finished with
bias binding so the raw
edges are covered. The
binding bias is sewn to
each side of a pressed
open seam. This
technique is well suited to
jackets, skirts and
garments that could have
been lined.
 French Seam sample

Cut the excess of seam very closely

and carefully to the stitch line. Then
fold to one side and iron it flat neatly.
Then close and iron on other side as
well so it lays flat.

Start by pinning the wrong sides Now the seam will be enclosed
together and then adding a simple between the 2 flaps, pin and add a
straight stitch to the edge of the stitch closely so the space encloses
seams. the seam. Iron it flat to one side and
French seam is ready.
Front Back
Fabric used - Georgette
 Welt Seam sample

After stitching, cut one of the excess

fabric from the seam and iron the
bigger on over it so it covers the cut
seam. Iron flat on both right and
wrong sides.

Take the right side of the fabric and stitch

a top stitch over the pre existing stitch line.
Start by pinning the right sides Leave a space of one presser foot and add
together and then adding a simple another stitch line on the right side parallel
straight stitch to the edge of the to the one sewn before. There would be
seam. two parallel stitch lines visible on the right
side. Now turn over to wrong side and cut
the excess loose seam left for a neat look.
The welt seam is ready.
Front Back
Fabric used - Satin
 Flat Fell Seam sample

After stitching, cut one of the excess

fabric from the seam and fold & iron
the bigger on over it so it encases
the cut seam. Iron flat on both right
and wrong sides.

Start by pinning the right sides Pin the folded seam on the wrong
together and then adding a simple side and add an edge stitch parallel
straight stitch to the edge of the to the previous stitch line. Iron the
seam with a bit more extra on the front and back. The flat fell seam is
side. ready.
Front Back
Fabric used - Organza
Hem Finishes

A hem is the edge of the garment that is finished using various

methods. The type of hem one uses in garment depends on the
fabric, look and design of the garment.

Different types of hems are used to give different finishes.

Finishing of a hem is given to give the garment a neat finished
look and to avoid fraying of the fabric.

Types of hem are discussed and sampled further.

Single Fold hem - This hem is
when the edge is folded once
and stitched in place. The
type of stitch may vary, from
simple straight stitch to
overlock stitch and many
others too.
Rolled hem - This hem is
sewn by hand or machine
on lightweight fabric. Most
fine silk scarves are with a
rolled hem. There is no
visible fabric edge as it is
‘rolled away’ inside the hem.
Double Fold hem - This hem is
when the edge is folded twice
and stitched in place. The stitch
used is usually single straight
stitch. This creates a crisp neat
edge.
Blind hem - its called a blind
hem because it is almost
invisible to the eye when
sewn. It can be sewn a blind
hem with a special blind hem
sewing machine foot or by
hand as well.
Pin hem - It is similar to a
rolled hem in that it is usually
sewn on fine fabrics and is a
great choice for hemming a
circle skirt as the curved hem
can be tricky to sew a single
or double hem greater than 5
mm.
Piped hem - A piped hem is
a simple way to add a little
detail to the hem. A similar
or different colour of piping
is added to add an element
of detail in the garment.
This is widely seen in
Pyjama sets.
Faced hem - A faced hem can
give such a professional finish
to hand-sewn clothing. Usually
drafted to complement the
shape of the hem, a faced hem
is a separate fabric piece rather
than rolling over a hem
allowance.
Bound hem - One of the easiest
hems to finish, a bound hem is
created by sewing bias strip
binding along the hem allowance
to wrap and enclose the raw edge
of the fabric. The bias may or may
not be in same colour depending
on the design.
 Rolled Hem on Straight Edge Sample

Now stitch the folded edge in place

on the stay stitch itself. After that cut
the excess hem very closely and
carefully to the stitch line.

Start by giving a stay stitch at the After stitching, roll the cut edge
edge of the hem by leaving 15 mm inside and pin. Sew the rolled hem
on side. After stitch, fold and pin in from the edge so it is not bulky. Iron
place. the edge and rolled hem is ready.
Front Back
Fabric used - Organza
 Rolled Hem on Bias Edge Sample

Now stitch the folded edge in place

on the stay stitch itself. After that cut
the excess hem very closely and
carefully to the stitch line.

Start by giving a stay stitch at the

edge of the hem by leaving 15 mm After stitching, roll the cut edge
on side. After stitch, fold and pin in inside and pin. Sew the rolled hem
place. from the edge so it is not bulky. Iron
the edge and rolled hem is ready.
Front Back
Fabric used - Georgette
Neckline Finishes

Neckline finishing is the finish given to the raw neck edge. It is

finished using various methods. The type of neck finish one
does in the neck depends on the fabric, look and design of the
garment.

Different types of methods are used to give different finishes.

Finishing of the neckline is given to give the garment a neat
finished look and to avoid fraying of the fabric.

Types of neckline finish are discussed and sampled further.

In this method the facing is
added and then the facing’s
raw edge is either overlocked
or finished with a zig zag
stitch to avoid fraying.
In this method the facing’s
raw edges are folded inside
and ironed in place which is
then slip stitched or machine
stitched depending on design
and fabric.
In this method the facing is
added and then the raw edge
is ironed and folded inside
and is then hand tacked or
blind sewn by hand to keep in
place and give a neat look.
 Neck Finish with Blind Hand stitch

Now stitch the bias facing with the

neck edge closely. Open the sewn
edge and iron flat and add a top
stitch on pre stitched line so it lays
flat.

Start by giving a stay stitch at the Fold the facing along with the top
neck edge. After stitch pin the bias stitch to create a neat edge and pin
facing in place by keeping right on in place. Hand tack or hand blind
right. hem the facing. Iron the neck and the
neckline is finished.
Front Back
Fabric used - satin
 Neck Finish with Machine stitch

Now stitch the bias facing with the

neck edge closely. Open the sewn
edge and iron flat and add a top
stitch on pre stitched line so it lays
flat.

Start by giving a stay stitch at the Fold the facing along with the
neck edge. After stitch pin the bias top stitch to create a neat edge
facing in place by keeping right on and pin in place. Stitch along the
right. folded edge of the facing with
garment. Iron the neck and the
neckline is finished.
Front Back
Fabric used - satin
Pin & Space
Tucks
A tuck is a decorative element detail which is given in a garment.
There are various types of tucks that are used which are a
variation of the basic tucks - pin & space tucks.

Pin tucks are called so due to the tucks being as thin as a pin.
These add a texture and a visual appeal to the garment.
Space tucks are much thicker in width than the pin tucks and add
a bit more noticeable detail. Space tucks also look like fluting or
pleat details. These two basic tucks are manipulated according
to the design requirements.

Different types of tuck may be used to give different aesthetic

and visual appeal to the garment and add detail.

The primary 2 types of tucks are sampled further.

 Pin tucks Sample
Start by marking the lines where the
tucks are to be made. Fold on the
line drawn. Pin the fabric and sew a
thin stitch lines on the drawn lines.
Iron to one side and the pin tucks are
ready.
Space tucks Sample
Start by marking the lines considering
the width of the tuck desired. Fold
fabric so one line touches the other.Pin
the fabric and sew the lines together
creating a tunnel. Iron to one side and
the space tucks are ready.
Front Back
Fabric used - satin
Dart to form
generation &
exploration
A dart is a part of the garment construction which is used to
give a proper fit or a particular shape to the garment. Darts can
be used on bodice, Skirt, pants and/or on the torso to give it a
proper tailored fit.
Apart from their functionality to give fit to the garment, darts are
also used to make certain forms and shapes which may be used
in the garment as a detail element.

This technique of using darts in various ways to create new

forms is further explored and sampled to gain a better
understanding of how to create and use these elements on the
body form as an added detail instead of a functional element.
 Darts to Form generation exploration Sample
The marked dart legs are sewn
individually one by one. The
form generation can be done by
suing just one or more than one
darts as required by the design.
On the extreme right, the image
shows the form generated after
one dart sewn.

In this first exploration, a The generation of the

square is made and the darts form by closing each
are marked in the middle of dart can be observed.
each line of the square. The
paper pattern is traced on
fabric and cut.
 Fabric used - Pure Cotton
Reflection - This method creates extremely interesting outcomes which can be used in
various places for added detail element.
 The marked dart legs are sewn
individually one by one. The form
generation can be done by suing just
one or more than one darts as
required by the design.

In this self exploration, a rectangle is The generation of the

made and the darts are marked the form by closing each
opposite sides on length, in an dart can be observed.
alternating zigzag fashion. The paper
pattern is traced on fabric and cut.
 Fabric used - Pure Cotton
Reflection - This method creates extremely interesting outcomes which can be used in various places
for added detail element. Different forms can be combined too to make interesting details.
Seam
displacement
& elimination
Seam displacement and elimination is a technique which is
used in garment construction to add detail in the garment.
Seam displacement refers to the method where the seams are
dislocated from their usual place and are adjusted and added to
unusual places on the garment. For example, if the side seam in
the bodice was removed from the side and made to fall in the
front in an abstract form.
Seam elimination refers to the method where the seam is
eliminated/removed altogether from the garment. This means
that there is little to no seam on the garment at all, Just the
hem.
While seem displacement and a detailed to the garment, seem
elimination adds a certain fall in the garment.
Each of these techniques are explored and sampled further.
Seam Displacement Sample

After it is flat, the sections are marked

with diagonal alternative lines in a
zigzag fashion to give an abstract and
geometrical seam to the sleeves. Cut
out on the lines drawn and open to
reveal the sections of the pattern with
the new seems.

Trace out each section of the sleeve on fabric

First take the basic sleeve carefully with the seam allowance. Cut each
pattern and trace it on a paper. section and sew the diagonal lines 1st to
After tracing and cutting it, create tube sections of the sleeve. The section
close the side seam by using of sleeves are stitched to each other by
scotch tape and lay it flat. putting right side of the sleeves together and
pinning in place. The sleeve hem is done and
ironed. The sleeve with a new seam is ready.
 Fabric used - Organza
Reference - Self design
Reflection - It took me a while to sew all the different sections together since I accidently pinned and stitched the wrong way. Hence, it
took a while to rip and sew back again but it was a learning process. This fabric handled the design exactly how I wanted it to.
Front Fabric used - Organza
Back
 Seam Elimination Sample

After opening, iron and stitch the

side hems with a single fold. For
front and back, create a tunnel by
leaving a bit more extra than for
the hem.

First take a rectangular shape After the tunnel is ready, use

of fabric and fold it and mark a safety pin to tie one end of
the neck line in the corner. Cut the cord to it and loop it
to create the neck and open to through the tunnel for both
reveal. front and back tunnels.
Steam iron it and the garment
is ready without any seams.
 Front Back

Fabric used - Pure Cotton

Reference - Self Design
Reflection - This was an easy yet stylish garment to make. It took just 30 mins to make this complete garment. I chose
cotton since it is a stiffer fabric and would give a structure to the whole look as well.
Darts as
a detail
Darts are a technique used for shaping garments by curving
straight fabric to the body. Darts are created by stitching a long,
thin pinch to a point, which is then pressed down to one side.
They vary in width and length, as a garment requires, and can
insert shape at the shoulder, neck, bust and waistlines by being
tapered at one or both ends.
Darts are a functional part of a garment but oftentimes a dart
can be used as an added detail to the design as well. The dart
line that shows in front can be used as a detailing to add
aesthetic appeal along with functionality and fitting.
The ways through which a dart can be added as a detail while
also giving a proper fit is sampled further.
 Asymmetrical curved Darts as a detail Sample

Now both the darts on either

sides are closed. Cut the curve
lines marked on the pattern. The
pattern will lay flat. Trace it on the
main fabric with marking the
middle of both darts and cut the
fabric.

Start by transferring the darts to the

Fold the fabric on the middle
armhole. Then trace it out on a folded
line drawn for the darts so that
sheet. Make two curved lines parallel to
the dart legs are matching. Pin
each other using French curve that join
the darts in place and stitch
to the dart points of both sides. Slash
both darts. Iron the darts flat
the middle line of both armhole darts
and the asymmetrical curved
and tape the dart legs to close the dart
darts are ready.
with scotch tape.
 Fabric used - Cotton Modal
Reference - Armstrong ; page 116
Reflection - Sewing the curved darts properly was a challenge as there were spots where then dart legs
didn't overlap each other at all so I used pins and ironed it to help get the desired results.
 Intersecting Darts as a detail Sample

Now both the darts are closed. Cut the

two lines marked on the pattern. The
pattern will lay flat. with an M shape on
waist. Trace it on the main fabric with
marking the middle of both darts and cut
the fabric.

Start by transferring the darts to the Fold the fabric on the middle line
armhole. Then trace it out on a folded sheet. drawn for the dart so that the dart
Make one line from waist line and one legs are matching. Pin the small dart
intersecting it at an angle that join to the in place and stitch. After stitching
dart points at both sides. Slash the middle first dart, take the dart excess and
line of both armhole darts and tape the dart sew the waist dart. Iron the darts flat
legs to close the dart with scotch tape. and the intersecting darts are ready.
 Fabric used - Cotton Modal
Reference - Armstrong ; page 118
Reflection - The intersecting darts looked really intimidating and challenging at first but as with the
basics clear, it was fairly a smooth and easy process. The outcome was as expected.
Gathers as
a detail
Gathering is a sewing technique that reduces the length of
fabric, so a longer piece can match and be attached to a shorter
one. It is used to manage, as much as disguise, a source of
fullness on a cuff or sleeve and can also pinch a skirt into a
waistband or bodice.
Apart from their functionality and practical purposes, gathers
can be used as an added detail to the garment and to add
movement/fullness. These gathers can be in various ways,
styles, positions and even shapes.
This technique as a detail on a garment is explored and
sampled further.
 Waist gathers as a detail Sample

Slash each line marked and lay the

pattern flat on the fabric. Trace out the
pattern and add 1 cm of seam allowance
to the curved edge and the inner line.
Using slip stitch sew through the line
with curves on it and scrunch it to form
gathers.

Start by transferring the darts to the waistline. Pin the gathers to the extended leg
Make neckline at 2 cm from LSP to middle of in place and stitch on the marked
centre front and one line from center front that line attaching the gathers to the
ends at 1 cm above waist dart point. Using french extended front leg. Steam iron the
curve mark curved lines at 1 cm distance that gathers and lay the seam flat and
extend towards side seam. Slash the middle of the bodice with waist gathers is
dart and join dart legs with scotch tape. ready.
 Fabric used - Cotton Modal
Reference - Self Design
Reflection - The gathers came exactly how I wanted them to. The slight but noticable
gathers add a detail element and elevate the whole look of the garment.
 Yoke gathers as a detail Sample

Cut the yoke and the bodice piece. Using

slip stitch, so through the gathers
marked on the bodice. Scrunch it to
create gathers. Use the balance points
marked to adjust the lower bodice part
according to the yoke.

Start by tracing the basic bodice block pattern with Pin the gathered bodice to the yoke
waist dart, trace the dart as well but blend them in in place and stitch on the marked
the waist hem. Mark the yoke line and draw line to seam. Steam iron the gathers and
get six sections below the yoke. Add balance points lay the seam flat and the bodice with
on the yoke line so that it is easy to attach the yoke gathers is ready.
gathered part with the yoke. Cut the yoke and the
sections pattern piece and trace them on fabric by
leaving 1 cm between each section and 1 cm of
seam allowance.
 Fabric used - Organza
Reference - Google images
Reflection - I used Organza to give it a bit stiff yet flowy look. I tried to add gathers at yoke since I had never
made a garment with yoke and wanted to explore. The overall outcome was exactly how I imagined it and it
was fairly easy to make.
Pleats as
a detail
Pleats are a fold or doubling of fabric that is pressed, ironed or
creased into place. There are many varieties, but the knife and
box pleat are the most common, although they can be
accordion, cartridge, circular, curtain, draped, fluted, Fortuny or
French. They can be insert, as well as inverted. Pleats add an
even greater fullness to a shape as well.
Pleats can also be used to add an aesthetic appeal in the
garment. Different pleats serve different textures, visuals and
effect in a garment.
Various types of this technique and as a detail on a garment is
explored and sampled further.
Knife pleats have one side
longer than the other so that
the fabric will lie flat on the
surface once it is pleated.
Normally the under pleat
would be half that of the over
pleat.
Box pleat combine two
approaches to create the
pleat. There There is a left
hand flat pleat followed by a
right hand flat pleat which
together forms the box
effect.
A Sunray pleat is a graduated
accordion pleat that is pleated
in a semi circle. The pleat starts
off very small and gets bigger at
the end.
This pleat looks like an
accordion because it is
formed by two pleats which
both have the same width. It
is a form of tight pleating
which allows the garment to
expand its shape.
 Skirt with pleated panel as a detail Sample
Take a sheet of paper and mark lines at 1 cm
distance and knife pleat it with each pleat's
width being 2 cm. Iron the paper to keep it flat.
Take the cut rectangular piece of fabric and
crease and pleat it on the paper for easy knife
pleats. Tape and iron the fabric so the pleats
stay in place. Remove pleated fabric from
paper, add stay stitch and then fold it into a
clean hem and sew.

Start by tracing the basic skirt block Pin the front and back of the skirt and
pattern on the fabric. Draw a diagonal sew on the side seams. The basic
line from the hem to 2 cm below the asymmetric skirt is ready for further
hip line in front to create asymmetrical process. Take the pleated rectangular
front hem. Cut the front and back piece and pin it with the front waist band
along with a rectangle piece of fabric of the skirt. Sew on the stay stitch to
and stitch the darts and the skirt front attach the pleated panel to the skirt. Hand
and back is ready for further process. hem the skirt waist band inside and the
skirt is ready.
 Front Back
Fabric used - Cotton Modal
Reference - Self Design
Reflection - This was a simple yet stylish garment to make. The knife pleats on fabric were a bit tricky to handle as they kept opening
up but I pinned each pleat on both ends and added stay stitch. I tried to use pleat purely as a detail without any functional motive to it
in the skirt.
 Skirt with pleats as a detail Sample

Trace the front side seam of the front pattern

and make a triangle with height equalling to the
width of skirt front using the side seam as base
on paper to make pattern. Trace the same on
fabric and stitch the two hems. Take organza
and box pleat 2 pieces as long as the two sides
of the triangle made. Sew a stay stitch on
pleats.

Start by tracing the basic skirt Sew the opposite side seam. Pin the two
block pattern on the fabric. Cut pleated pieces sandwiching between the
the front and back and stitch the front skirt and triangle panel and pin the
darts and the skirt front and side seams with the triangle base
back is ready for further sandwiched between. Sew the seam first
process. to have base attached and then sew along
the V section on the skirt. Iron the skirt
and pleats and the skirt is ready.
 Front Back
Fabric used - Cotton Modal
Reference - Self Design
Reflection - This was a design to explore box pleat as an aesthetic element in garment and not so much as a functional aspect.
The whole look came as desired however, next time I would keep the box pleats a bit more shorter in length so it does not over
power the whole skirt.
Garment
component as
a detail
Garment components such as collar, cuffs, neckline, slits,
openings, fasteners, pockets and other elements can be used as
an extension of aesthetic and detail in a garment other than
their usability.
These elements can be manipulated and explored in interesting
and innovative ways to come up with fresh and new design idea
and generation. Contrasting or prominent changes/ designs of
these garment components can be used to enhance design.
These garment components like collar, cough, neckline, slate,
openings, fasteners and pockets are discussed further. Pocket
as a detail is further sampled and explored as well
 Collars as a detail

Collars are usually extension

for the neck fastening. They
can be used as an added
detail in a garment. A collar
can be made individually to
be attach and detach
according to the desire.
Exaggerated collar can be
used to enhance a simple
design idea. There are
various ways to use collars
as an added detail element.
Cuffs as a detail

Cuffs are extended fabric

that is used to finish a
long sleeve. They usually
have a button but they
can be used as a detail
instead of their
functionality as well. The
cuffs can be made with
various materials, patch
work, cuts and techniques
to add an innovative
touch to a simple
garment.
 Necklines as a detail

Necklines outline of the

upper edge of a garment.
They come in many varieties
of style from the low to the
high, the square, the V, the
halter, the sweetheart, the
turtle, the polo and the
scoop, to name a few.
These can be manuvered
and changed according to
design to add detail.
Openings as a detail

Opening refers to the way by

which a garment is opened.
There are various ways for
putting an opening in the
garment. These different
ways can be manipulated
and manoeuvred in a way to
suit the design aesthetic
better and to add more
detailed value to the
garment.
Fastners as a detail

Fastners include zippers, safety

pins, grommets, ribbons and other
materials which are used to fast
and a garment. These elements
can be used other than their
practical and functional use as an
added detailed element. Safety
pins are prominently used in
various distinctive ways to
achieve creative, easy and yet very
innovative design details. These
details can be put anywhere on
the government.
 A pocket is a bag or envelope
like receptacle either fastened
to or inserted in an article of
clothing to hold small items.
Pockets have evolved from just
having a functional aspect to
being an element of detail and
visual appeal in a garment there
is a lot of room for exploration
in pockets as a detail
component. The same idea has
been explored and sampled
further.

Pockets as a detail
 Patch Pocket as a detail sample

Carefully open and pin the patch

pocket on the bodice where the
pocket is needed.

Start by tracing a rectangle Using straight stitch on machine, sew the

a rectangle shape on the pocket onto the bodice. Since the material is a
sequin material. This will be metal mesh, there is no need for hem. The
the pocket. Cut the pocket straight stitch is done very closely so that each
piece out. stitch is interlocked in the area that connects
the mesh together. Iron the bodice and the
pocket is ready.
 Pocket material used - Metal sequin mesh
Reference - Pinterest
Reflection - It took me a while to handle the material as it is slippery and has high mobility and movement in it. I had to pin each mesh
connection with the bodice so it does not scrunch up while sewing and so the connection interlocking the mesh together does not get ruined
with the needle while stitching.
 Patch Pocket as a detail sample

On another fabric, mark a rectangle with length

which is equal to the pocket length. Hem the
top and bottom of this piece and then stitch the
pocket side seam with the piece on one end.
Twist the piece twice to form a twisted bow
look. Stitch the other end onto the pocket as
well.

Start by adding microdot fusing  take take the sequin fringe trim and pin
behind the base of the patch it on the under side of the pocket. Pin the
pocket. Trace out the pocket pocket on to the bodice and do a single
onto it and cut. Stitch the top stitch to attach the patch pocket on the
hem of the pocket. The pocket is bodice. Iron the garment and the patch
ready for further process. pocket with tassels is ready.
 Pocket material used - Pure cotton (base), Cotton Modal (twist detail), Sequin fringe trim
Reference - Pinterest
Reflection - It took me a while to handle the twisted bit as it kept curling the base pocket along with it. while sewing it took me 4 tries to sew
the pocket correctly on the bodice without sewing the twisted piece along but a part of it still got sewn. The trim was slippering and while
stitching it kept poking out. Even in the final outcome the white part of the trim can be seen. In future, I would cut the excess trim beforehand.
Tech pack
Pin Board
Link
https://pin.it/2LRuqbh
 Deselected Exploration
Samples
Graduating Dart as a detail

Fabric used - Cotton Modal

Reflection - This was not selected as the darts did give the shape but were not visible as a detail that prominently.
 Gathers on bust as a detail

Fabric used - Cotton Modal

Reflection - This was not selected as the gathers were not properly stitched and looked very rough. Even after ironing, it looked very
untidy and haphazard.
 Pleats on sleeve as a detail

Fabric used - Cotton Modal

Reflection - This was not selected as the pleats length after sewing was longer than desired and it looked like a big flap and did not have
the structure or stability to be stiff in place.
 Printed patch pocket as a detail

Fabric used - Cotton Modal (Bodice) ; Printed Crepe (Patch Pocket)

Reflection - This was not selected as the pocket had no experimentation at all and was like a small practice attempt at patch pocket.
 Self Reflection

This module overall was a great insight with enriching information to grasp. The different
techniques and ways to use functional aspects of a garment as an element of aesthetic
and visual appeal in the garment was learnt.
There were alot of challenges faced during the learning process. A few being personal,
health issues and the time restraint since my sewing machine stopped working. I had to
work around the clock and come up with various ways to cope and come up with
solutions. These challenges helped me hone my problem solving and time management
skills.
Apart from these challenges there were a few technical challenges faced as well. For a
few designs I pinned and sew the wrong sides together and hence had to rip them and
sew again. Each design was a learning for me in its own distinctive way.
Overall, these challenge combined together helped me learn new things and put my basic
knowledge about pattern making that we learnt in previous years to test. It was
informative and creatively fullfilling with fruitful outcomes.
 Bibliography
Sites Used :
1. www.pinterest.com
2. www.googleimages.com
3. How to Sew Seams - https://sewguide.com/how-to-sew-seams/ (Accessed on 1 October 2021)
4. 7 types of seams - https://www.masterclass.com/articles/7-different-types-of-seams-and-how-to-use-them-in-
garments#7-different-types-of-seams (accessed on 1 October 2021)
5. Bias Bound seam - https://blog.treasurie.com/bias-bound-seam/ ( accessed on 1 October 2021)
6. All about sewing seams - https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/all-about-sewing-seams/ (accessed on 1 October
2021)
7. Sewing hems - https://www.thecreativecurator.com/sewing-hems-how-to-sew-a-hem/ (accessed on 1 October 2021)
8. How to finish neck lines 3 different ways - https://weallsew.com/how-to-finish-necklines-three-different-ways/
(accessed on 1 October 2021)
9. 3 ways to finish a neckline facing/ a dove blouse - https://blog.megannielsen.com/2016/09/3-ways-finish-neckline-
facing-dove-blouse-tutorial/ (accessed on 1 October 2021)
10. Fashion A-Z - https://www.businessoffashion.com/education/fashion-az/darts (accessed on 1 October 2021),
(accessed on 2 October 2021) , (accessed on 3 October 2021)

Books used :
1. Pattern making 5th edition by Helen Joseph Armstrong
2. Fashionpedia - The visual dictionary of fashion design