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Quality Concept and Wine Styles 1. What Is The Quality of A Wine?
Quality Concept and Wine Styles 1. What Is The Quality of A Wine?
The quality of a product is usually defined as a “satisfied consumer’s expectation”. This is however,
a very limited definition as each consumer has a different expectation and they are not always
constant. Despite this, companies are constantly trying to create new expectations by launching
new products.
The quality concept is, therefore, defined by the market and is under constant transformation.
The quality of a wine can be viewed strictly from the quality management systems - usually based
on the ISO 9001 norms – that companies within the sector may adopt in order to produce certified
products (or to certify the company itself). On the other hand, quality can be interpreted in a
context related to style, value or price of the wine (more related to marketing issues).
There are various classification systems in the several European wine regions. There are
classifications for wines produced with the region’s grapes (Qualitättswein mit Predicat (D), AOC,
DOC, …) and others for table wines with no geographical origin. In some countries, such as Spain
and France, there are national classifications for wines produced with national grapes.
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3. Wine classification system in Portugal
This is the EU nomenclature and it groups all the wines classified as DOC – “Denominação de
Origem Controlada” (Controlled Origin Denomination) and IPR – “Indicação de Proveniência
Regulamentada” (Regulated Origin Indication). There are also more specific designations for
fortified (1), natural sparkling wines (2) or CO2 added sparkling wines(3):
The “Origin Denomination” concept is applicable to wines whose originality and individuality are
undoubtedly connected to a certain region:
In order to benefit of an Origin Denomination, the entire production process of a wine is submitted
to a rigid control throughout the phases – from the vineyard to the consumer. The grape varieties,
the vinifcation methods, the organoleptic characteristics are some of the elements controlled to
allow the right of carrying this nomenclature. The Regional Viticultural Commissions are responsible
for this control in order to guarantee the authenticity and quality within their demarcated regions
(Law nº. 8/85, of 4th June). In Portugal, the oldest wine producing regions obtained this DOC
status.
Wines with the IPR designation are wines that, despite its particular characteristics, will have to
fulfil all the rules established for the production of quality wines (in a minimum of a 5-year-period)
in order to obtain the DOC classification.
Regional Wine
This classification is given to table wines with Geographical Indication. It is also related to wines
produced in a specific region and that adopt this region’s name. These wines are made with 85% of
grapes from the region and of varieties that are recommended and authorized (Decreto-Lei nº.
309/91, de 17 de Agosto).
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Table Wine
The wines that are not among the previous designations are considered table wines.
The VQPRD designation can be wrongly interpreted as it can suggest there are wines “with no
quality”. This is, in a way, a contradiction as it is up to each consumer to decide if a wine has or
does not have the quality they are seeking for.
The DOC designation is less ambiguous and has been used more often on food products, which
leads to believe that this will become a preferred designation than the former.
The table wines and regional wines are traditionally considered of inferior quality than the VQPRD
or DOC wines as the latter have strict acceptance requirements (physic-chemical and sensorial).
There are however, several recognised quality wines that are not classified as DOC or VQPRD. This
fact indicates a certain lack of update between the wine classification system and the market, not
to mention the confusion it can cause among the consumers.
4. Wine Style
The wines can be classified by types, styles within the types, price category they are inserted in
(premium, super-premium, icon, etc.) and their marketing strategy. The type of wine is related to
its physic-chemical characteristics (as a result of different technological processes) such as the
colour, the sugar levels, the ethanol percentages, etc.
The marketing strategy of a wine considers the brand under which the wine will be traded, the
harvest year, the lot (or lack of it), the type of grapes used in the winemaking (mix of variety or
one single variety), etc.
The style of a wine is related to its complexity, which is also related to its chemical composition -
e.g. wines that are more complex and concentrated should be served with “heavier” meals or
lighter wines that should be served as drinks (with no meal). Just as in quality, the style of a wine
is a mental perception that may have different meanings for each individual.
A wine producer normally tries to have different style wines for different occasions. In some wines,
the goal is to enhance the varietal aroma and in others, the technological process the wine went
through (e.g. ageing in wood).
For economical reasons and consumer’s attitude, the cheaper wines are usually those that went
through a smaller maturation and ageing process. Wines produced for rapid consumption and trade
not only do not age but also can change in character if not consumed quickly. On the other hand,
wines produced to age in bottle (classified as “Reserve”) may not correspond to the consumer’s
expectations if consumed too early.
Criteria Classification
Colour Red, White, Rosé (Rosado), Claret
Sugar Concentration Brut, Extra-dry, dry, demi-sec, sweet, …
CO2 Concentration Still, Fizzy, Sparkling
Ethanol Concentration Licorous (Fortified), Non-licorous
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Some wines have a specific technological production process and therefore become a wine of its
own kind (such as Port Wine).
Below is a classification of wine styles of different types, organised according to their colour and
production process.
Red Wines
The different styles of red wine are usually classified according to the type of aroma and the mouth
sensation (structure or “body”). The choice of a certain style depends on the occasion (and when
the occasion is a meal, it depends on the meal itself).
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White Wines
The sweetness level and the wood aroma usually determine how the white wines are divided. It is
important to consider these facts when choosing a wine for an occasion (or meal).
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Special Styles of White Wine
The sweet white wines (not fortified) are usually obtained by special processes that allow sugar
concentration on the grape.
The sugar concentration in these wines may be caused by several factors:
- Late Harvest – the grapes are left on the vine for long periods in order to become almost raisins,
through water evaporation of the grape. These wines have generic designation of late harvest or
vendange tardive (in french).
- Botryte – The sweet botrytis wines (such as the French Sauternes, the Hungarian Tokaji and the
German Trockenbeerenauslese) are obtained from raisin grapes contaminated with the botrytis
fungii (Botrytis cinerea). This fungii is also responsible for the grey rot – spreads itself out on the
grapes surface and penetrates them causing chemical changes on its composition and
concentrating the sugars. This phenomenom is also known as noble rot (or pourriture noble, in
French).
In order to obtain this type of wine, the grape contamination can either be provocked or happen
naturally.
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- Freezing of the grapes – in some cold areas (e.g. Canada, Germany or Austria) the grapes are left
on the vine until the first frost, at the end of the Autumn. The grapes are harvested frozen
(temperatures equal or below to –8ºC) and are pressed in that state. After pressing the ice cristals
are removed and a must which is highly concentrated in sugar, acids and aromatic composts is
obtained.
- Drying of the grapes – in some wines (e.g. Italian Recioto di Soave) the best grapes are selected
just before the harvest and are placed on a tray for drying. They dry for 4 to 6 months. During this
time they are carefully cleaned and controlled before they are pressed. During the drying process, a
specific fungii develops and a specific aroma will appear as a result of this fact. An intense yellow
wine with complex aromas of honey and flowers will be created.
The Greek Retsina wine appeared from the need to improve the conservation of the wines during
transportation on ships in ancient times. The Greeks would therefore add pine retsina to the wine.
This causes a typical retsine aroma to this wine.
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Rosé Wines
The rosé wines are usually divided according to its sugar levels
Sparkling Wines
This wine is classified by its colour, sugar concentration and phenolic structure
Sparkling Wines
White Medium Dry Sparkling wines with body Champagne (vintage)
Sparkling Wines
White Demi-sec or Sparkling wines with a higher residual
Sweet or Demi-sec Champagne
Sweet sugar level
Sparkling Wines
Rosé Dry or Demi-
Rose colour sparkling wines Champagne
sec
Sparkling Wines
Red Sparkling wines with little sugar
Dry Sparkling Shiraz (AUS)
level
Reds
Sparkling Wines
Rosé Demi-sec or Red Sparkling wines with high sugar Sparkling German Wines,
Sweet level Lambrusco (It)
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Fortified Wines
The fortified wines are divided according to its sweetness. Sweet wines are often only considered as
dessert wines although some are also drunk as an aperitif.
On the fabrication of Sherry wines, the grapes are placed in the sun for a few days (soleo) – after
the harvest – in order to become almost raisins (through water evaporation). The vinification
process is similar to the classic white wine production (open tap). During the alcoholic fermentation
a yeast layer is formed on the wine’s surface (also known as veil or flower). This adds specific
aromas to these wines. In the end, a white wine of 11 a 12º alcohol is obtained. After fermentation
the wines are fortified with wine brandy up to 15º-17º alcohol.
During the staging period, the Sherry wines are placed in half-empty wooden casks. Depending on
the wine to be produced they may (such as the Fino or Manzanilla) or may not (such in the
Olorosos) have a permanent contact with the yeast surface (veil of yeasts). This yeast protects the
wine from oxidation and gives it a typical aroma.
The stage of Sherry wines normally lasts several years and is done through a typical mixing process
that requires filling up the older casks (soleras) with younger wines (criaderas). The addition of
partially fermented wines with staging wines produces wines with different sweetness levels.
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Madeira Wine
Madeira wine is obtained from fresh grape juice partially fermented. This happens when the
fermentation is stopped by adding wine brandy. Madeira wines have a variable residual sugar
concentration, depending on its style.
After the alcoholic fermentation stoppage, the wines go through a “estufagem” (green-house
processing) or heating process which consists in warming up and keeping the wine under a high
temperature (50ºC), in closed containers and therefore without air contact for 90 days. This
process causes chemicals changes in the wines composition, adding its typical characteristics.
The traditional “estufa/green-house” (known as “canteiro”) is basically to store the wines for
several years in a way that the tropical heat in Madeira will produce the desired chemical
transformation. There are nowadays, stainless steel vats with a heating system that keep a
constant wine temperature during the stage period.
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Port Wine
Port is a licourous wine produced in the Douro Demarcated Region under particular conditions as a
result of natural and human factors. The traditional production process includes the stopping of
fermentation of the must by adding wine brandy (called “benefício” or “aguardentação”), the
blending of the wine in lots and the ageing. There are several types of Port wine with different
alcohol and sugar concentrations. These wines also have a large range of colours that will vary
according to its type and age.
The Red Ports can be divided in two categories according to the ageing process:
- Ruby style – wines of intense red colour and fruity aroma; these wines are usually not very
evolved (or evolved under reduced conditions) in order to keep the wine young. The categories of
this type are (in increasing quality order): Ruby, Reserva, Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) and Vintage.
The best quality categories, such as the Vintage and, in a smaller scale, the LBV, can be kept as
they age well in bottle.
- Tawny style– wines that aged in casks or vats; These wines have an evolution/age characteristics
(colour and aroma). They are usually wines form various lots with variable age, but which are, in
mean the label age. The existing categories are: Tawny, Tawny Reserva, Tawny with age indication
(10 year-old, 20 year-old, 30 year-old and 40 year-old) and Colheita. Once bottled, they are ready
for consumption.
The White Ports can also have different styles according to its sweetness, longer or shorter ageing,
etc.
There are some special categories of Port Wines which are specifically regulated (Vintage, LBV,
Aged in Bottle, Date of Harvest (Colheita), Indication of Age and Reserva).
Port wine is a licourous wine obtained by stopping fermentation (adding brandy) at an early stage
(normally 2 to 3 days).
The addition of brandy improves the chemical-oenological stability, produces peculiar organoleptic
characteristics and, at the same time, allows the sweetness control of the wine. The fermentation
process must be stopped when the quantity of non-fermented sugar provides the required
sweetness. The must in fermentation is then separated from the solid parts, and is transferred to
the vats where the fermentation is stopped by adding wine spirit (“beneficio”), in specific
proportions.
In the traditional process the grapes are de-stemmed and crushed in open stone tanks, known as
“lagares” with a maximum height of 60 cm. This operation known as treading is traditionally done
by men. It can also be done by mechanical robots that replace and reproduce the human trod.
After the first treading, the fermenting must rests for a few hours and is then trod again until it
gets separated from the solid parts (escorrimento) in order to receive the wine spirit.
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Nowadays, the majority of wines is made in technologically advanced vinification centres where
most of the operations are mechanized. After the total or partial de-stemming, the crushed grapes
are transferred to the tanks/vats where they ferment for 2 or 3 days. During this period several
pumpings from bottom to top are done in order to maximize the colour extraction.
The white port can differ in its elaboration processes. According to the traditional process methods
it is prepared with some maceration. In these cases it will age in oxidative conditions. For those
wines where it is intended to preserve the pale-white colour and fresh aromas, the time of
maceration is reduced.
The ageing process of Port can last several years and is processed in different ways depending on
the intended type of wine. The best blends of wine produced in an exceptional year are usually
selected to be classified as Vintage. The majority of the wines, however, are used to produce
blends with defined characteristics.
During the first two years the wines are subject to numerous rackings. The quantity and intensity
of these rackings vary according to the characteristics intended during its evolution.
In the case of the Vintage or of the Late Bottled Vintage (LBV), the ageing is initially done in
wooden casks: 2 to 3 years for Vintage and 4 to 6 years in the case of the LBV’s. After this, a
bottle-ageing happens (in reduced conditions or limited oxidation) which improves the organoleptic
characteristics of these wines.
The other types of wine age in oxidative conditions: less oxidative conditionsin the case of Ruby
wines (preserving therefore the more or less intense red colour and the vigour of the young wines)
and molre oxidative in the case of Tawny, Colheitas and Wines with an age indication.
These wines loose their initial astringency throughout the ageing process (due to a high tannin
concentration) and develop a rich and complex bouquet. They also go through accentuated colour
alterations.
The white ports can be prepared with some maceration, ageing in oxidative conditions.
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Vinhos Verdes Styles
The typical Vinho Verde wines belong to the aromatic wine categories with floral and friuty aromas.
This wine’s concept is associated to the Vinho Verde Demarcated Region. Only the wines produced
within that region can carry that designation.
The Vinho Verde are typically fresh, with a recognisable acidity, a low alcoholic level and some
dissolved carbonic gas. Due to the dimension of its Demarcated Region, there are Vinho Verdes
with a style of its own and quite different from each other depending on its geographical origin.
Due to the region’s big variation on the soil and climate conditions, there are also style differences
among wines from different sub-regions. Sub-regions closer to the coast produce wines higher in
acidity than those produced inland. The predominance of certain vine varieties (and the regulation
on the authorized varieties) in a specific sub-region also influences the type of wine produced in it.
There are also differences between blended and single varietal Vinho Verdes apart from the
geographical factor. The blended wines have a style which is more complex (depending on the
varieties and the blending involved) than the single variety wines which have a character specific to
the grape variety it was made from.
The Alvarinho wine is the most famous single variety wine (made with the grape variety of the
same name). This wine is associated to the Monção sub-region. Loureiro is another example. These
varieties are known for their floral and intense fruit and therefore used for single varietal wines.
From a legal point of view, Vinho Verdes must follow certain physic-chemicals parameters defined
by the CVRVV. These parameters can be viewed on the CVRVV’s web page, section “Laboratório”
(Laboratory), with the link: http://www/pt/instituicao/departamentos/laboratorio/bin/produtos.asp)
According to the residual sugar level, the Vinho Verde (table wine) can be classified into:
Varietal Wines
The Vinhos Verdes traded as single varieties are made with at least 85% of grapes from that
variety.
Some Vinho Verdes are exclusively made from only one variety and have on their label the
designation: “exclusively made with the ….variety”.
The Vinho Verdes can also be a blend of two or three varieties or even more (this information is
normally indicated on the label or on the back label).
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The designation “Vinho Verde Alvarinho” is only used for white wines from the Monção sub-region,
exclusively with Alvarinho grapes which are cultivated and vinified in that sub-region’s area.
Colour
The “slight fizzy wines” are wines condicioned in glass bottles containing CO2 with an over pressure
inferior to 1 bar when preserved at a 20º temperature and are closed.
Wines that do not have a noticeable carbonic gas are called “still” wines.
Special Designations
- “Choice (Escolha)”: reserved to wines in glass bottles, with marked organoleptic characteristics
and when associated to the year of harvest can be called “Grande Escolha”.
- “Superior”: reserved to wines in glass bottles, with marked organoleptic characteristics, measured
alcoholic level greater than at least 1% vol. to the minimum limit legally fixed.
- “Selected Colheita (Harvest)”: reserved to wines in glass bottles, with marked organoleptic
characteristics measured alcoholic level greater than at least 1% vol. to the minimum limit legally
fixed. The indication of the harvest year is obligatory.
- “Reserva”: reserved to wines in glass bottles, with the indication of the harvest year, with marked
organoleptic characteristics measured alcoholic level greater than at least 0,5% vol. to the
minimum limit legally fixed.
- “Late Harvest”: reserved to wines in glass bottles, produced from over ripe grapes where Botrytis
cinerea has developed in conditions that cause the noble rot.
The designation “Garrafeira” is reserved for table wines with both geographical and VQPRD
indications, associated to the year of harvest, with destacadas organoleptic characteristics and that
have – for the red wine – a minimum of a 30-month ageing (out of which at least 12 months in a
glass bottle) and for the white or rosé wines, a minimum 12 months (out of which at least 6
months in a glass bottle).
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Special designation for Minho Regional Wine
Apart from the designations already mentioned, the Minho regional wines can also carry the
following designation:
- “White from white grapes”: reserved for white wine obtained exclusively from white grapes.
- “White from red grapes”: reserved for white wine obtained exclusively from red grapes
- “Vinho de missa”(Mass wine): reserved for the wine obtained according to the rules established
by the ecclesiastic authorities, as long as written permission has been given to the bottler.
- “New”: reserved to wines in glass bottles, less than one year-old and that can only be traded
during the beginning and the end of its production campaign. The year of harvest on the label is
obligatory.
- “Old”: reserved to wines in glass bottles, less than three years-old for the reds and less than two
years for the white or rosé. With marked organoleptic characteristics and a measured alcoholic
level minimum of 11,5% vol.
The Sparkling vinhos verdes can still have the following designations:
- “Old reserve” or “Grand reserve”: when over 36 months in bottle, before the racking.
- “Selected Colheita (Harvest)”: reserved to wines in glass bottles, with marked organoleptic
characteristics and the indication of the year of harvest.
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The Sparkling Vinho Verde traded as single variety is made with at least 85% of grapes from that
variety.
The designation “Sparkling Vinho Verde Alvarinho” is only used for white wines from the Monção
sub-region, exclusively with Alvarinho grapes which are cultivated and vinified in that sub-region’s
area.
The wine brandy made from the Vinho Verde region (aguardente vínica) that are made from the
natural ageing in casks of oak wood, can have the following classification:
The wine brandy made from the Vinho Verde region marc/”bagaço” (aguardente bagaceira –
distilled from grape marc) obtained through natural ageing in oak wood casks can be called:
The Alvarinho variety can only be mentioned in the wine spirits / bagaceiras when obtained from
the wine / bagaço made exclusively with Alvarinho grapes which were cultivated and vinified in the
Monção sub-region area.
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