Professional Documents
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Whisky Magazine (08.21)
Whisky Magazine (08.21)
Whisky Magazine (08.21)
WHIS KEYS
www.whiskymag.com Celebrating the whiskies of Ireland
TASTED
REVIEWS
INCLUDE
The Busker
Clonakilty
Fercullen
Glendalough
Hinch
Jameson
Paddy’s
Cooper’s Craft
Teeling
Tipperary
Two Stacks
The Whistler Ger Buckley on a life shaping oak
and the future of whiskey
Meet
Sarah Dowling
Kilbeggan’s master blender
Irish Whiskey
Annual Review
Looking back on the
highs and lows July 2021
A
publication
A supplement to Whisky Magazine
xxxxxxx xxxxxx
WHISKEY DISTILLERIES
OF IRELAND 2021
Bushmills
Crolly
LONDONDERRY
ANTRIM
DONEGAL
NORTHERN
IRELAND Copeland
Hinch
Rademon Estate
FERMANAGH
ARMAGH DOWN Echlinville
Blacks
Clonakilty
West Cork
The publishers assume no responsibility for any effects from errors or omissions. All material published in
Whisky Magazine is copyright and reproduction is forbidden without the permission of the publishers.
THOUGHTS FROM
WILLIAM LAVELLE,
HEAD OF THE IRISH WHISKEY ASSOCIATION
T
he publication in December Grasping the opportunities for beating releases competing in the
2020 of the Irish Whiskey Irish whiskey in this new decade premium price segment and above,
Association’s report on the will require meeting the challenge of from the quintessentially Irish single
decade from 2010–2020 allowed pause communicating about the Irish whiskey pot still to single malts, single grains
ϐ
category in new markets and to new and some of the world’s best blends.
a phenomenal period of restoration for consumers. Thankfully, Irish whiskey Our Association recently launched
the Irish whiskey industry. Going from has a great story to tell. a multi-faceted #DiscoverIrishWhiskey
four to 38 distilleries and achieving 140 Our industry has committed to campaign, to spark consumer
per cent global sales growth marked preserving traditionality as the critical excitement in the depth and diversity
an unprecedented turnaround for an underpinning of our geographic of the category. The message is
industry that was nearly wiped out. indication. Yet, it has been equally simple: there are more brands, more
Today, Irish whiskey is entering daring in driving innovation and expressions, more styles and more
the more senior stages of a spirit new product development. This dual ways to enjoy Irish whiskey.
category boom. This inherently brings The closure of the on-trade in our
major markets has seen a consumer
new opportunities and challenges. In
established markets in North America
Our industry has come pivot to home consumption and to
and across Europe, Irish whiskey’s back from the depths. greater use of the online retailer. The
momentum will continue to draw Now it can scale rise of e-commerce has provided a
in new consumers, albeit in a highly major lifeline to many smaller and
saturated and competitive marketplace. the heights medium-sized Irish whiskey producers.
ϐ
ǡ In addition, it is opening up a range
higher-end Irish whiskeys in these ambition has been very much at the of new possibilities for Irish whiskey
markets continues to snowball. In forefront of our collective deliberation brands to engage with consumers and,
newer markets across Asia and Africa, as the Association has commenced and more importantly, vice-versa. While the
Irish whiskey sales have – up until
ϐǤ on-trade will reopen, the position of
recently – been negligible. However, dual ambition has been central to the e-commerce as a major sale channel for
rapidly increasing consumer demand Irish whiskey revival and renaissance. ϐ
for premium international spirits has The phenomenal pace of the past and here to stay.
presented an opening. decade has been spearheaded by With more opportunities in sight, I
But selling Irish whiskey has the three leading brands of Jameson, am convinced that Irish whiskey can
never been easy, and it’s all the Tullamore D.E.W. and Bushmills. The continue to grow global sales and that
harder if the consumer has little to role of these three iconic brands in growth is there to be shared across the
no understanding or appreciation Irish whiskey’s global rebound should board for those who work hard and
of what we know to be a unique and not be understated. Meanwhile, our work smart. At company and category
outstanding spirits category. Yet, Irish new wave of distilleries, the availability level, effort is required. Our industry
whiskey remains unheard of in many of more aged stock from more sources, has come back from the depths. Now it
emerging markets, while the character and a pioneering approach to NPD can scale the heights.
and quality of Irish whiskey remains an have all come together in an explosion
unknown to many whiskey drinkers in of expressions. Irish whiskey is being Learn more about the campaign
markets where Irish whiskey sales are seen in a new light: a world leader #DiscoverIrishWhiskey at: ibec.ie/
ϐǤ
ϐǡǦ drinksireland/irish-whiskey
The Difference
WORDS MARK JENNINGS
a Year Makes
If this is what Irish distillers can do during a challenging year,
the next might just show Irish whiskey to be the most exciting
category in the world
I
t was not all that long ago that Ireland had three Ireland is undoubtedly one of the world’s most exciting
distillery businesses with three predominant styles: frontiers of new whisky making, with rules governing
the triple-distilled single malt from Bushmills in the production that are not quite so restrictive as those applied
north; the mighty Irish Distillers at Midleton, making to neighbouring distilleries in Scotland. This allows for
pure pot still and blends in the south; and Cooley, the traditional pot still style using a mash of malted and
the relative newcomer, double distilling its single malt. unmalted barley, while also not restricting the use of wood to
That’s the way it was for decades. Now there are a whopping ǡϐ
37 distilleries operating, and another nine in planning or vibrant scene. Then there’s the bonders, with their distinct
early stages of build – and that doesn’t include the many
ϐǡ
independent bottlers, or ‘bonders’ and ‘merchants’, as they dimension to this kaleidoscope of distillate styles. Think you
like to be called here. know what Irish whiskey is all about? Think again.
ϐϐ
The rise of peat is partly due to trade distiller Great
this past year has been the rise of peated expressions. ǯϐ
Ǥ
Despite tales of some old poitin being peated, it had wisely laid down almost every distillate style possible to
ϐǡ meet potential market demand, though it’s been reported
with just one product on the market, but that all changed that even the distillery team was surprised by the interest
through 2019–20. Challenging the conventions that Irish in peated Irish.
whiskey should be all about sweetness and light came It’s not all GND, though, with many other distilleries
the likes of Teeling’s Blackpitts single malt, distilled at its quietly laying down peated stock for their own future
Dublin distillery, which met a positive reception. From releases, including Blackwater, Killowen and Dingle, the
the bonders, most notable were the popular Big Phil from peat fanatics at Rademon Estate Distillery, and up to a
W.D. O’Connell and Sliabh Liag’s set of Silkie releases. dozen others.
Opening pages:
In the fields with
team Waterford.
Previous pages
from top:
Teeling Distillery in
Dublin; Alex Chasko,
Teeling’s master
distiller and blender;
Unloading casks at
Waterford Distillery.
These pages,
clockwise from
top left:
Lambay Whiskey’s
brand manager and
ambassador, Sabine
Sheehan; Analysing
spirit at Waterfod;
In the fields with
Waterford; Moving
casks at Dingle.
SIGNIFICANT RELEASES
OF THE PAST YEAR
BOANN CLONAKILTY
Following the successful 2020 release of Last September, Clonakilty Distillery
Ǧϐ teamed up with Pelican Brewing
under its Whistler brand, the Imperial Company, Oregon, USA, to create a
Stout Cask Finish and Calvados Cask
Ȃϐ
Finish, Boann Distillery in County exclusively for the Oregon market. The
Meath picked up the prestigious award Mother of All Storms barleywine has
for World’s Best New Make at the World a cult following among fans of Pelican
Whiskies Awards in March 2021. The Brewing, so Clonakilty Distillery
ϐ
ǡ decided to take things one step ex-Pedro Ximenez sherry casks (61 per These pages, left
it indicates a promising future for the further by imbuing its whiskey with
ȌϐǦϐȋ͵ͻ to right:
distillery’s spirit and whiskies currently ϐ
ǯǦ per cent), and is predominantly created Boann’s award-
winning new-
maturing in the site’s warehouses. winning barrel-aged beer. A select with six- to seven-year-old spirit.
make spirit; The
Boann’s founder, Pat Cooney, said, “This number of these casks were handpicked Importantly, this core-range release has newly launched
ǡϐϐ to embark on a pilgrimage from the been bottled at 46.3% ABV without the Dingle single malt;
for Ireland, no other distillery has won shores of Oregon to the rugged Atlantic
ϐ
Ǥ Glendalough’s
best international new make in this coastline of Clonakilty. 17-year-old,
competition, which is the top award Sean Scully, business development GLENDALOUGH mizunara-cask
whiskey; Lambay
when it comes to whiskey distillation. manager at Clonakilty Distillery, said, Following the trend toward wood
Whiskey’s Alexander
We have achieved this by merging the “The meticulous attention to detail and innovation, Glendalough released a Baring and Cyril
old ways of whiskey production in care that Pelican put into crafting their pot still whiskey aged in Bourbon and Camus of Camus
copper pot stills, with cutting-edge, unrivalled beer offerings is outstanding ϐ Cognac, the source
21st-century nano-technology. It is an to see. Building a partnership with a ϐ of Lambay’s French
incredible achievement for our team brewery that possesses their integrity Japanese oak. The Glendalough 17 oak finishing casks.
that we have produced the best new- and reputation is a privilege for us ϐ
Ǥdz at Clonakilty and we look forward to mizunara oak cask for twice as long as
Ǥdz the last edition, a 13-year-old. Having
ͳͷϐǦϐ
DINGLE cask, the whiskey was transferred to the
Dingle reached an impressive milestone mizunara casks, which the Glendalough
ϐ team say are notoriously leaky and
core single malt expression produced expensive, but worth using for the
entirely using spirit distilled on its own ϐ
Ǥ
site. Some 50,000 bottles of the triple- Meanwhile, the Glendalough Pot Still
distilled Dingle Single Malt have been ϐ
produced and will be sold domestically the company. After spending three years
in Ireland, as well as exported to key in ex-Bourbon casks it was transferred
international markets including the UK, into virgin Irish oak casks for a further
Poland, Germany, France, China and, year of maturation. According to the
later this year, the US. The distillery team at Glendalough, these casks
expects to produce 100,000 bottles of were made from trees that were
Dingle Single Malt, and half a million sustainably harvested in the mountains
bottles across the distillery’s portfolio, surrounding the County Wicklow-based
by 2023. distillery. Keeping sustainability in
Priced at €55.00 per 70cl bottle, the mind, the company has committed to
Dingle Single Malt has been matured in planting seven oak saplings for every
ROYAL OAK still releasing aged products from its This page: TIPPERARY
The last 12 months have been busy and archive of bought-in casks. Teeling The Tipperary Eagerly anticipated releases from
award-winning times for Royal Oak did a whopping 15 new releases in Distillery team. Jennifer Nickerson’s Tipperary
Left to right:
Distillery and its whiskey, The Busker. the last 12 months, including 28 and Distillery included the company’s
Stuart Nickerson,
The distillery released single grain, 37 Years Old vintage single malts; the whiskey consultant; ϐ
malt and pot still bottlings (all of Wonders of Wood series; a Front Line Jennifer Nickerson, homegrown barley. Produced at
which won silver medals at the World Heroes bottling; and collaborations managing director; another distillery while Tipperary was
Whiskies Awards 2021), as well as a with Plantation rum, Umbrella and Liam Ahearn, being built, it was distilled from a mash
triple-cask blend. The team were also Brewing Ginger Beer, and Dot Brew chief agricultural ϐ
consultant.
on top form, with Icons of Whiskey Amber Ale. Teeling also released its the watchful eye of Scotch whisky
Ireland awards for Lisa Ryan, who was Blackpitts peated single malt and legend Stuart Nickerson.
named distillery manager of the year, Sommelier Selection Sauternes Cask Jennifer does not sugar-coat this past
and Woody Kane, who picked up the and Margaux Wine Cask expressions. year, though, as she has worked hard
title of visitor attraction manager of Stephen said, “We have seen a huge to get the distillery up and running. “I
the year. amount of resilience in Irish whiskey wanted to write something about hope
over the past 12 months. Even with all in the darkness, or opportunities arising
TEELING the uncertainty of the pandemic, the from challenges, but really I think we
They have been busy boys and girls premium and super-premium segments ͳʹǡdz
at Teeling and, though it is one of of the market have exploded – showing she said. “This time last year we had an
the few new Irish distilleries with that the segmentation trend within empty shed and some stills. We now
its own whiskey distilled on site, it is Ǥdz have a working distillery, two new staff,
ǯϐ
Ǥdz
WATERFORD
One of the most anticipated whisky
releases in the world in the last 12
months was from Waterford Distillery.
With its team’s zealous focus on
single-farm, terroir-driven whisky,
the company has its share of fanatics
and naysayers but caught a wind of
positivity with its numerous releases.
Though all very young, the common
review was that the whiskies showed
great promise and were worthy of
the bold statements on provenance.
Its releases so far come under three
‘families’ of whiskies:
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Glendalough Hinch
17 Years Old Mizunara Oak Finish Craft & Casks
GLENDALOUGH HINCH DISTILLERY
Jameson Paddy’s
Jameson Black Barrel Old Irish Whiskey
IRISH DISTILLERS PADDY’S
Two Stacks
The Blender’s Cut – Cask Strength
TWO STACKS
7.5 7.3
The Whistler
P.X. I Love You
BOANN DISTILLERY
8.0 8.4
Hinch Distillery
Tel +353 (0)28 9279 1180
www.hinchdistillery.com
The Powerscourt
Distillery
Tel +353 (1) 506 5656
www.powerscourtdistillery.com