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BEST OF YEAR 2020

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PLUS:
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Deep roots.
Important in the vineyard. And in how we run our business.
©2020 Trinchero Family Estates, St. Helena, CA
 BEST OF YEAR
December 31, 2020

of 2020

46
BY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST
Here are the best wines to enjoy now.

Cover Photo by Tom Arena

68 TOP 100 SPIRITS OF 2020  84 TOP 25 BEERS OF 2020 

BY KARA NEWMAN BY JOHN HOLL
These are the best pours of the From lagers to stouts, these were
year, from whiskey to vodka the year’s best-reviewed brews.
and beyond.

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 Vineyard Photo Credit: Nathan DeHart

Farming in Lake County is a labor of love.

Diamonds are forged under In this mountainous land of rugged beauty, brilliant
light, and red volcanic earth, our growers tend to
intense pressure. the vines with an uncommon degree of care.
Open a bottle of Lake County wine and discover
a gem from California’s North Coast.
 Features
62 BORDEAUX’S
PREMIER CREW
BY ROGER VOSS
Get to know the stories behind
the region’s legendary five first
growths.

78 URUGUAY’S MOMENT
BY MICHAEL SCHACHNER
Modern wines push one of
the smallest wine-producing
countries to new heights.

90 NEW IDEAS ON THE OLD

CENTRAL COAST 
BY MATT KETTMANN
Historic estates in one of
California’s seminal wine regions
continue to innovate.

99 WINE ENTHUSIAST
WINE STAR AWARDS
Meet the bright stars of 2020.

136 DRINKS GONE DIY

144
Sweet talk
BY KARA NEWMAN
Classic cocktails that lend
themselves to infinite variations.

62
Bordeaux icon
144 JUST DESSERTS
Château Mouton BY LAYLA SCHLACK
Rothschild Impressive confections get
paired with the sweet wines
they deserve.

90
A peek at
Peake Ranch

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 26
Flor to ceiling
design

Departments Columns
WINEMAG.COM IN THIS ISSUE
14 Craft Brews 12 Where do we go
From Here?
BY ADAM STRUM AND
THE CRUSH SUSAN KOSTRZEWA
19 Exit strategy advice
22 Franc’s new palette VIEWPOINT
24 Where Riesling rules  42 And the Best Wine of
26 How savvy design the Year Is…
helps Sherry BY LAYLA SCHLACK
28 Q&A with Cameron
Diaz and Katherine
LAST DROP
Power
200 Camping Among the Vines
30 Bubbles reborn in
BY KRISTEN RICHARD
cocktail form
32 Other drinks by way
of clay
Buying Guide
34 A tall order for quiche   154 Loire Valley 188 Chile
36 Why some say yes 177 Burgundy 190 Uruguay
to invest 181 Rhône Valley 191 California
38 Better wines for 182 Portugal 194 Washington
butternut   184 Northern Italy 198 Spirits
40 Less spark, more joy 187 New Zealand 199 Beer

28
Q&A with
Katherine Power
and Cameron Diaz

19
New ways to
stay home

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

PA S O RO B L E S D E F I N E D

PA SO R OBLE S
 VOLUME 33, NUMBER 10

Adam M. Strum PUBLISHER

Susan Kostrzewa EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jacqueline Strum ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea

EDITORIAL DIGITAL DESIGN CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR ART DIRECTOR EUROPEAN EDITOR SPIRITS
Layla Schlack Emily Saladino Monica Simon Roger Voss Kara Newman

SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DESIGNER ITALIAN EDITOR BEER
Sarah Daniels Dylan Garret Eric DeFreitas Kerin O’Keefe John Holl

TASTING ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR VISUALS PRODUCER WINE FOOD

J’nai Gaither Jesse Reiter Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Nils Bernstein
ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR
Fiona Adams Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon,
SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Matt Kettmann, Sean P. Sullivan, TRAVEL
Elyse Estrella Tom Arena Lauren Mowery
TASTING COORDINATOR Anna Lee C. Iijima, Anne Krebiehl, MW,
Craig Chamberlain Christina Pickard
SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR LIFESTYLE & ENTERTAINING
Marco Bruno Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen

EDITORIAL OFFICES HEADQUARTERS CALIFORNIA EUROPE ITALY PACIFIC NORTHWEST

200 Summit Lake Drive Virginie Boone vboone@wineen- Roger Voss rvoss@wineenthusiast. Kerin O’Keefe kokeefe@ Paul Gregutt pgregutt
Valhalla, NY 10595 thusiast.net; Jim Gordon jgordon@ net; Anne Krebiehl akrebiehl@ wineenthusiast.net @wineenthusiast.net; Sean P. Sullivan
TEL: 914.345.9463 wineenthusiast.net; Matt Kettmann wineenthusiast.net ssullivan@wineenthusiast.net
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BACK ISSUES AND ADDITIONAL COPIES Jennifer Sullivan
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Wine Enthusiast (ISSN 1078.3318) is published monthly with double issues published in March and July. Each double issue counts as two of the 12 issues in an annual subscription. Wine Enthusiast may also publish occasional
extra issues. Subscriptions are $34.95 (International: Canada $59.95; Foreign $89.95). ©2020 Wine News, Inc. 200 Summit Lake Drive, Valhalla, NY 10595. Periodical postage paid at Valhalla, NY and additional mailing offices.
Manufactured and printed in the USA. Reprints: You must obtain permission to reproduce any material. Postmaster: Please send address changes to Wine Enthusiast, P.O. Box 420234, Palm Coast, FL 32142.0234

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

Because rules are made
to be broken.

shannonridge.com

WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE?
As 2020 draws to a close, we reflect on the top stories in the wine world this year.
No
doubt, 2020 has been a year
of challenges, of change and
of mostly unnavigated wa-
ters for not only the wine
industry, but the world at large.
In this, our Best of Year issue, we look to the
future, with aspirations and hopes for a brighter
tomorrow. But we also reflect on the impactful,
often tumultuous year we are closing.
While many trends, topics and innovations
have influenced what’s in our glass, the
following five stories took center stage, forever
altering the landscape of wine and the world as
we know it.
COVID-19 alters all aspects of life. Initial
global lockdowns commencing in February and
March 2020—based on scientific projections
and a slow but steady understanding of how the
virus spreads—meant a complete and necessary
change of public life. The environments in which
we consume, buy and appreciate wine closed,
adapted or went completely virtual. Despite
the cataclysm of events, wine sales in America
increased 30% from the start of the pandemic,
according to a June 2020 Nielson report.
Businesses adapt and innovate with
impressive speed. The hospitality and beverage
industries pivoted quickly to provide safe
options for consumers and employees alike,
including 100% take-out and curbside service,
virtual shops and tastings, socially distanced
*Tourism Economics Travel Industry Employment report, October 2020 | ** California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection reports
12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
in this issue
dining and tightened hygiene precautions. Such
ingenuity was only a partial hindrance to the
pandemic’s impact, though, with the hospitality
industry in particular (including restaurants,
bars, clubs, hotels and cafes) suffering over
36% of all total U.S. job losses from February to
September 2020. *
Diversity and inclusion efforts drive
needed change. The racial inequity of the
wine industry was a focus this year, spurred
by the atrocities of police brutality against
Black civilians like George Floyd and Breonna
Taylor and nationwide protests in support of
the Black Lives Matter movement. As a result,
new and existing programs that endorse and
amplify BIPOC voices in wine found a long
overdue prominence in the industry, and big
business stepped up with donations as well
as internal diversity and inclusion initiatives
and partnerships. The dialogues also increased
exposure to wines supporting and/or made by
BIPOC producers.
Wildfires on the West Coast are the worst
in recorded history. With climate change
playing an indisputable role, the intensity and
frequency of devastating wildfires like the
Glass fire in Napa and blazes in Washington
and Oregon increased again this year, revealing
a terrifying new normal for America’s premier
wine regions and resulting in loss of life and
infrastructure. As of November 4, the year’s fires
“A bend in the road
is not the end of the
road… Unless you fail
to make the turn.”
—Helen Keller
had burned more than 4% of California’s roughly
100 million acres of land, making this year the
largest wildfire season recorded in California’s
modern history.**  With questions looming of
future safety and long-term sustainability of
winegrowing in continually perilous regions,
considerations for abating the climate crisis
became ever more crucial this year.
Tariffs hobble the industry and increase
wine prices in popular categories. In October
2019, 25% tariffs levied on wines under 14%
alcohol from France, Germany, the U.K. and
Spain decreased availability and selection of
the category, increased prices and threatened
the businesses of distributors, importers and
retailers across the nation. Job losses due to the
tariffs are estimated in the thousands.
GETTY IMAGES
ADAM STRUM SUSAN KOSTRZEWA
PUBLISHER & CEO EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
@adamstrum @suskostrzewa
 WINEMAG.COM

Craft Brews MASH

MADE EASY
If you’re not sure how to get
started, keep it simple with
an all-in-one brew kit. For as
little as $50, you can have
everything you need delivered
to your door, even the recipe.
We review three kits at
winemag.com/BrewKits

HOME
SCHOOL
Ready to give it a go?
We’ve got a grain-to-
glass guide to walk you
through the process
of homebrewing and
act as a roadmap on
brew day. Follow along
at winemag.com/
Homebrew

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: MICHAEL DELAPORTE, ERIC DEFREITAS, GETTY IMAGES

BREW
SLANG
The best way to step up
your game is to learn how
pros do it. Beer Editor
Looking for a new indoor project? Join the crowd of John Holl breaks down the
people who are beginning to discover the rewards of details of making different
styles like ale, porter or
homebrewing (like ample six-packs for gifting). With
lager at winemag.com/
the right supplies and a little help from winemag.com, HowToBrew
you’ll easily master your next favorite hobby.

Follow us @WineEnthusiast

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 PODCAST Every bottle tells
a unique story.
Listen as Wine Enthusiast editors take you on a tantalizing trip
into the world of wine, beer and spirits. Drink up the latest
trends, news and information, plus meet the passionate people
behind your favorite pours.

Find us on winemag.com/podcast or
AWAY AT HOME
After a year of stocking up, staying in and
clinking glasses across computer screens,
you may be looking for some new scenery.
Turn the page for fresh escapism tips from
wine and beverage pros who have
aced armchair adventure beyond
their four walls. >>

WINEMAG.COM | 19
 WINE AWAY WITH ME

MASTER THE
ART OF THE
ARMCHAIR
VACATION
As overseas jaunts remain
uncertain, many seek ways BY
LAUREN
to escape their living room MOWERY
without buying a plane ticket.
For more ideas on the art of P H OTOS BY
PENNY DE
the stay-home wine LOS SA N TOS
vacation, we asked
industry experts
to weigh in.

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 IN THE KITCHEN
A celebrity chef, TV personality and author, Amanda Freitag is certainly
no stranger to transporting diners, herself included. The vehicle?
Memorable culinary experiences. 
“As we are all contained in our safe bubbles, my way to travel is
to cook, taking my senses on a trip,” she says. She loves to make fresh
STYLING BY JUDY HAUBERT

pasta. “I recently took myself to Italy without ever leaving my kitchen.” 

She made a Bolognese sauce and prepared fresh tagliatelle, then
popped open a Lambrusco from Modena.
“I ate slices of luscious mortadella from the package while enjoying
the uncomplicated elegance of the Lambrusco,” she says. “I closed my
eyes for a moment…and I was in Bologna.”
Scott Bull, co-owner and host of Sustainable Wine Tours in Santa
Barbara, California, customizes private driving tours to area wineries
and winemaker homes. For those who can’t make it to Santa Ynez,
however, he recommends ordering bottles online. 
“Drink the Estate Syrah from Larner Wines alongside a plate of
Santa Maria tri-tip and pinquito beans for a full-bodied Santa Barbara
experience,” he says. 

THROUGH THE SPEAKERS

While what’s on your plate and in your glass offer their own portals,
the synergy created by the combination of food, wine and music is
undeniable. Even if the “place” it takes you is just a state of joy. 
Freitag loves to blast tunes while cooking and sipping pink bubbly.
“The genre depends on my mood,” she says. “I will go all-out rock ’n’
roll with Led Zeppelin, Foo Fighters and my fave, Nathaniel Rateliff &
The Night Sweats,” she says. Though, any disco and R&B classics that
inspire her to dance and sing will also do the trick.  
While less likely to make you want to bust a move, podcasts offer
another option. Bull listens to The Land of Desire, a history podcast
that offers “tales of fun, adventure and absurdity,” he says. A recent
overview of the madeleine, a small French cake, inspired him to bake
a batch. 
Bree M. Stock, a Master of Wine and the education manager of
the Oregon Wine Board, keeps the focus on vino. She tunes in to Levi
Dalton’s I’ll Drink to That! for frank conversations with the personalities
behind bottles and deep dives into wine production.

ON THE PAGE
To journey beyond her walls, Chevonne Ball, founder of Dirty Radish
Travel Company, turns to books. A recent pick was Dirt by Bill Buford.
“I’ve been to the bakery he speaks of several times, and I am
enjoying the trip down memory lane,” she says. 
Jeff Harding, wine director at New York City’s Waverly Inn, also
looks to the page for a little escapism.
In the last year, he’s sought books on World War II-era France. He
recommends The Flight Portfolio by Julie Orringer, set in the country’s
south, as well as Champagne-based The Winemaker’s Wife by Kristin
Harmel and Death in Bordeaux by Allan Massie. All have “made things
in our time seem a lot more bearable,” he says.

ON THE SCREEN
Hoping to help others get out mentally, Harding opens a portal into the
vines via his Instagram series, Vineyard Chats.
“One of the coolest [Instagram Live] interviews I did was a virtual
walking tour with Hela Mansour, the owner of Bordeaux Walking Tours,”
he says. 
Harding met her on a previous trip and thought it would be fun to
take a virtual walk together. To search for specific paid virtual wine
exploits, he suggests checking out Airbnb’s new online experiences. 
Unsurprisingly, Zoom, the online conferencing platform that has
become a household name during the novel coronavirus pandemic, can
also help facilitate armchair travel.
Sommelier and tastemaker André Hueston Mack uses it regularly
for his own seminars as well as to join others. The salons held by
Larkmead Vineyards are one of his favorites. 
Many wineries also host guided virtual tastings or other interactive
events. Oregon’s Brooks Winery, for instance, offers tastings that range from
a focus on single vineyard wines to a deep dive into the Willamette Valley.
With tasting times set at the participants’ request, managing director Janie
Brooks Heuck makes it easier than ever to access Brooks’ wine.

WINEMAG.COM | 21
 THE WHITE STUFF

FRANC GOES BLANC P

arent of powerhouse red variety Cabernet Sauvignon,
Cabernet Franc creates herbaceous, savory reds, bright
rosés and, increasingly, layered white wines.
That’s right: An adventurous set of American
winemakers has begun to embrace the grape in a new light
U.S. winemakers are bringing a and produce tradition-defying, still white offerings.   
Without any skin contact during the winemaking process, white
lighter perspective to Cabernet Cabernet Franc doesn’t exude the same berry notes one might expect
Franc production. from the grape. The variety’s telltale pepperiness and lively acidity
carry through, however, and resulting wines fall anywhere from
zippy, like Sauvignon Blanc, to ripe or complex and smoky, like a
Grüner Veltliner. 
Ahead, find four selections that showcase this unique expression.
—Shelby Vittek 

JACKALOPE WINE HALCYON WINES BLANC LEAH JØRGENSEN CELLARS SAVAGE GRACE WINES
CELLARS WHITE  OF CABERNET FRANC  BLANC DE CABERNET FRANC  BLANC FRANC 
Portland, OR  Contra Costa County, CA Newberg, OR  Woodinville, WA
In 2014, Corey Schuster, Jackalope’s Husband-and-wife team Tyler and Southern Oregon winemaker Leah Although the Yakima Valley Ameri-
owner/winemaker, made his first Kim Elwell focus exclusively on Jorgensen Jean is credited as the first can Viticultural Area (AVA) is plant-
white Cab Franc by accident. In- California Cabernet Franc. This wine in America to make still white wine ed largely to Chardonnay, Merlot
tended to be a rosé, the wine had was born out of a desire to add a from Cabernet Franc. “You wouldn’t and Cabernet Sauvignon, Savage
lost all color come bottling time. white to their portfolio. “When you make a white wine arbitrarily from Grace Owner/Winemaker Michael
The result was surprisingly popular, restrict yourself to one grape, you just any red grape. Cab Franc has the Savage kicked off his first vintage
and he’s made it every year since. have to get creative,” says Tyler, who needed acidity, like Pinot Noir and with a Cabernet Franc. He’s since
KATRIN BJÖRK

“Not a lot of people have a frame of presses whole-cluster and limits Pinot Meunier in Champagne,” says begun to make a Blanc Franc by
reference for it, so it gets people out color extraction to produce this Jorgensen, who advocates for the pressing whole clusters and aging
of their box,” says Schuster. bright bottling.  ageability of white Cabernet Franc. “I the wine in stainless-steel tanks. 
call it the ultimate Cinderella grape.” 

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 GRAPE ON THE GO
RIESLING
ROMPS AROUND
Widely known for its sweet expressions, this
variety proves its versatility across the map.
N
ative to Germany’s Rhine Valley, Riesling has found
great popularity worldwide. And for good reason:
Though many associate the white grape with sweet
wines, its shape-shifting nature means it can just as
effortlessly play the role of dry, crisp apéritif, as it
can be an off-dry foil to fiery Thai curry or a luscious late-harvest
accompaniment to cheese. Typically high in acid, this showy variety
is hardly ever shy and often yields perfumed notes of stone fruit,
citrus and honeysuckle that will beckon you back for another sip.
Recently on quite a global jaunt, here are three other places to find
the aromatic white. —Kelly Magyarics
24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
AUSTRALIA
Though made in Tasmania, Western Australia and Victoria, Riesling from the
Clare and Eden Valleys of South Australia is considered a quality benchmark.
“The Clare Valley does dry Riesling beautifully—we have great weather, lots of
sunshine, clear skies and a pristine rural environment free of pollution,” says
Jeffrey Grosset, owner/founder of Grosset Wines. The certified-organic winery
has been producing crisp, lemon- and lime-driven versions for four decades.
HUNGARY
Hungary boasts the fifth-most European plantings of Riesling after Germany,
Alsace, Austria and Moldova. Not to be confused with Olaszrizling, the widely
planted local white used mainly for bulk wines, Hungarian Riesling often yields
quality bottlings. Made with grapes grown across the country, varietal bottlings
and Riesling-based blends prove equally exciting. Regional styles range from
bone dry, tank-fermented offerings to spontaneous-fermented bottlings made
from old vines.
WASHINGTON STATE
One of the first grapes planted in the state, Riesling is now Washington’s
second most grown white. Producers in the Yakima Valley, Ancient Lakes and
Lake Chelan are known for fruit-dominated versions. Elsewhere, winemakers
produce a viscous, honeyed late-harvest style while others freeze Riesling
grapes for ice wines. Chateau Ste. Michelle remains the largest Riesling
producer worldwide, joined by boutique winemakers like Chris Figgins,
president/winemaking director of Walla Walla’s Figgins Family Wine Estates,
JOÃO NEVES
who predicts a coming pivot in style. “While there’s many sweet to off-dry
[examples], I really believe the future to be dry Rieslings for their transparency
and complexity,” he says.
 I NDULGENCE BEGINS IN THE VINEYARD.
©2020 DIORA WINES, KING CITY, CA

91 POINTS
W I NE E N TH U SIA ST
90 POINTS
W INE ENTH US IA ST
91 POINTS
W I N E E N T HU SIA ST
L A SP LEN D EUR DU S O LE IL C H A R D ONN A Y L A PE TI T E G RA CE PI N OT NO I R LA B EL LE FÊTE R OSÉ OF P INOT NO IR
 SHERRY TALES

FLOR PLANS
In southern Spain, centuries-old Sherry
bodegas marry form and function.

W
hile modern wineries feature their
share of architectural wonders,
the historic bodegas of the Sherry
triangle, many of which date to
the mid-1800s, boast their own
engineering marvels. Most were designed to create specific
microclimates that encourage the development of flor, the
blanket of dead yeast cells that forms over Sherry as it ages,
protecting it from oxidation.  
“[The architects] came up with a new style of building,
combining functionality with aesthetic,” says Mario Muñoz
González, Brand Ambassador for
Bodegas Lustau in Cádiz, Spain. “At
“[The architects] that time, to be recognized or known
came up with a new as one of the best affluent wineries of
style of building, Jerez was to have tall, beautiful and
combining impressive cellars.” 
But there’s more to it than
functionality with grandeur. Every feature was taken
aesthetic.” —Mario into account. 
Muñoz González Windows and doors carefully align
to take advantage of, or buffer against,
the cool, humid Poniente wind from
the west, as well as the hot and dry Levante wind from the east. During much
of the year, these portals remain open to allow the Poniente “to refresh the
microclimate,” says Muñoz González, but they’re closed in the summer when the
Levante is at its most powerful.
Each building’s coordinates are key to harnessing the wind’s powers.
“The wineries are oriented to receive the Atlantic Ocean breeze from the south
and west, especially at night, when the higher humidity contributes importantly to
the development of wine yeasts,” says Mauricio González-Gordon, chairman of
González Byass.
Because heat can damage the wines, high ceilings were implemented to allow hot air to

COURTESY OF BODEGAS LUSTAU

rise and keep the solera process, an aging system used to blend many vintages over time,
nice and cool. González-Gordon says thick walls, often made of sandstone or limestone,
also help control temperature fluctuations, as they absorb humidity.
However, humidity serves an essential role in flor’s development, and it’s maintained in
other ways. At both Lustau and González Byass, albero soils, the same type of dirt found in
bullfighting rings, cover the floor. Frequent watering, sometimes numerous times per day in
the summer, helps maintain a constant humidity level. —Shana Clarke

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 Q&A For the full interview
with Diaz and Power,
visit winemag.com/
Avaline

W
hen friends Cameron Diaz
and Katherine Power
learned about the addi-
tives used in some wine
production and the industry’s lack of clear
labeling requirements, they were shocked.
With so many people increasingly con-
scious about the ingredients in other
consumable goods, how could such a
dearth of transparency be acceptable?

CLEAN WINE
Wine lovers, the two decided to change
that dialogue by establishing their own
Actress and brand. Named Avaline and launched in
author Cameron July, the label advocates for more informed
purchasing through straightforward
Diaz and fashion labeling. It offers a trio of vegan wines,
entrepreneur all made with organic grapes. Nutritional

CONSCIOUS
Katherine Power information is included on the bottle, and
a list of all ingredients can be found on the LEFT: JUSTIN COIT; TOP: AVALINE
share more brand’s website.
about the key Here, we dish with the duo about
that defines their why they entered the wine biz, how they
determined their lineup and what exactly
new wine brand, “clean wine” means to them.
Avaline. —Lauren Buzzeo

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020


How did you decide what kind of wine you
wanted to make?  farming for multiple generations and the
Katherine Power: Avaline was born
out of our personal need to understand
how the wine we were drinking was
being made, and to explore and raise the
standards that we were looking for when
it comes to wine. Our goal as a brand is
to offer transparency around ingredients
and nutritional information in the wine
without sacrificing taste. The blends were
developed to be delicious, easy-to-drink,
everyday wines that appeal to a broad range
of taste preferences and occasions.
Cameron Diaz: Katherine and I have
different palates. For red, I go more towards
a heavier wine, like a Cabernet Sauvignon,
and she goes more towards a lighter Pinot
Noir. For white, I go more towards a
Sancerre, or Sauvignon Blanc, while she
goes more towards a Pinot Grigio. Rosé, we
agree on. As we created Avaline wines, our
goal was to meet each other in the middle.
We were successful in finding wines that
speak to both palates.
“Our goal as a brand is to
offer transparency around
ingredients and nutritional
information in the wine
without sacrificing taste.”
—Katherine Power
How did you find a team you wanted to
work with?   and without unnecessary additives. Our
KP: Finding the right partners started with
finding people who already knew how to
make wine that met our criteria: organic
grapes, vegan and using as few additives as
possible. From there, it came down to the
taste profile of the wine and the ability of
the winemaker to grow with our business
CD: It was all of that and getting to
learn more about their history and farming
practices. It was incredible hearing the
stories of these winemakers that had been
care that they have for their land. In most
cases, our growers are harvesting by hand
and planting for biodiversity. Some of our
growers use natural pesticides and deficit
irrigation, but only as necessitated.
How active were you in the production of
the wines?
KP: The two of us built Avaline from
the ground up for over a year before we
made our first full-time hire. We knocked
on doors, met with countless experts,
traveled to the winemakers in Europe and
sampled hundreds of blends to ultimately
create a range of wines that we are proud
to put our names on. Avaline is far from
a celebrity brand, but rather a product we
felt compelled to create for our community
and the rest of the world.
CD: I have said this before, but I stand
by it: It’s just as easy to slap a label on a
“celebrity” as it is for a celebrity to slap a
label on a bottle, so I get why people might
think that’s what Avaline is. But I’ve never
slapped my name on anything. I’ve always
done the work, even though it’s never felt
like work to me because I only pursue what
I am passionate about.
Avaline’s branding says the wines are
“clean.” What does that mean to you?
KP: We are very used to seeing the term
“clean” when it comes to categories like
food and beauty. Now, consumers are
asking for the same standards when it
comes to wine. “Clean wine” is made from
organic grapes, with minimal intervention
wines are vegan and are free from added
sugar, color and concentrates. Avaline’s
label is a jumping-off point for greater
transparency. Consumers can dive even
deeper into the details on the wine on our
website as well.
Why do you think there’s been concern with
the term “clean wine”?  
CD: The term clean has been used in other
industries, like beauty, for years, but using
the term in wine is relatively new... For us,
“clean wine” is a way to help our drinkers
find the wine that aligns with their criteria:
organic grapes, no unnecessary ingredients
and, of course, a vegan product. When
we went out to find wines that met these
standards, we couldn’t easily walk the
grocery aisle and identify them. That’s
because the wine industry hasn’t chosen
to emphasize these attributes historically.
The consumer is demanding that things
change… Accessibility and education are
very important to us as a brand.
KP: We are not the first to use the
term “clean wine,” but our mission is to
make this level of ingredient and nutri-
tional transparency the norm. Not a crazy
expectation, but something that hasn’t
been required by the regulating body of the
wine industry. It should be as easy for the
consumer to understand as it is with food
and skin products. We are not here to chal-
lenge the traditional wine industry. We are
here to invite them to be more transparent.
WINEMAG.COM | 29
 COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH

FREEZE
THAT FIZZ
Here’s a way to use up any
bubbles left after the ball drops.

A
fter New Year’s celebrations
are done, put any leftover
Champagne to work in this
indulgent slushy that’s like
a cross of a frozen Margarita
with a Sgroppino, an Italian classic made
with lemon sorbet, vodka and Prosecco.
(Yes, you can put bubbly in the blender.
Just a couple of ounces of fizz won’t cause
an explosion, promise.) Flat Champagne
would also work. —Kara Newman
BALLER MARGARITA
Courtesy of Erick Castro,
proprietor/bartender, Raised by
Wolves, San Diego

1 ounce blanco Tequila

2 ounces Champagne
½ ounce vanilla liqueur, preferably
Licor 43
1½ ounces lime sherbet
Lime wheel, for garnish

Combine Tequila, Champagne,

vanilla liqueur, sherbet and 1
cup ice cubes in blender. Blend
until slushy, about 20–30 seconds.
TOM ARENA

Pour into hurricane glass. Top

with crushed ice. Garnish with
lime wheel.

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 EXPLORING NORTHERN ITALY’S
SURPRISINGLY SOPHISTICATED SPARKLING WINES
The idyllic Dolomite mountain area crowning
Northern Italy’s Trentino region inspires awe
and is known around the word not only as
a UNESCO world heritage site, but a dream
destination. What few people know, however,
is that this region is also home to some of Eu-
rope’s most developed at the dawn of the 20th
century, Trentodoc wines are some of the most
labor-intensive wines in the world. The Char-
donnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Meunier
grapes are nurtured by pure spring water and
grow on the traditional Trentino pergola system
on steep vineyards that reach up to 2,952
feet altitude. The striking diurnal temperature
swings between cold mountain nights and
radiant alpine sunshine-soaked days lend the
grapes both complexity and robustness, as well
as a bright acidity.
Once the grapes reach the right level of
acidity, minerals, sugars, and aromatics, they
are hand-picked by farmers who work to
protect the Metodo Classico, the 150-year
old method that creates this exquisite wine.
This tradition includes a double fermentation,
wherein the bottles are regularly rotated in a
process called remuage. The resulting sparkling
white and rosé wines – ranging from Brut
(aged 15 months) to millesimato and riserva
(aged up to 10 years) – are so versatile that
NOW TRENTODOC
they can be paired with any part of the meal, IS ALSO AN APP!
from appetizers to the main course. This strict
adherence also earned Trentodoc wines
VULVM[OLÄYZ[+6*MVYJSHZZPJTL[OVKL The Trentodoc App, made for wine lovers and
champenoise wines in the world, and each travelers will guide you through the discovery
bottle from the 57 producers in the region of Trentodoc sparkling wine from Trentino, the
bears the Trentodoc trademark. Trentodoc TL[VKVJSHZZPJVIVYUHTVUN[OL+VSVTP[L
is a proud supporter of the Institute of the Mountains, in northern Italy. The mobile App
Masters of Wine. allows you to discover all the 57 producers and
Treat yourself to these award-winning,
their 175 Trentodoc labels, showcased through
carefully-crafted sparkling wines and see if
technical tasting sheets, to help you taste and
you can taste this unique territory and the
Italian mountainside breezes in your glass. savor the sparkling wine from the mountains at
OVTLVY^OPSLKPUPUNV\[@V\JHUHSZVÄUK
information about Trentino
territory, guided tours to
wineries and more than
200 gastronomical, natural
and cultural sites and stay
updated on the events
and tastings. You can
ÄUKP[VU`V\YTVIPSL
store (both Apple and
Android) and there is
a version in English.
CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI
DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013
CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING
TO EU REG. NO. 1308/2013
www.trentodoc.com
For more information, istituto@trentodoc.com
@trentodocusa @trentodoc

IS NOW THE
TIME TO
INVEST IN
WINE?
Collecting and cellaring lead
to personal gratification, and if
you play your cards right, there
might be a financial reward, too.
It
might be hard to think about
the long term amid a global
pandemic, a grape glut in
California and tariffs on certain
European wines. And yet, people
are buying more wine than ever. So, is this
a good time to invest? —Shana Clarke
32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
BUY CELLAR HOLD
THE PROS
Anthony Zhang, cofounder/CEO of wine
investment platform VinoVest, says that
the factors that drive the wine market—
scarcity, supply and demand—are different
than those that drive the stock market.
Wine is inherently a long-term
commodity that gets better as it ages, so its
value only goes up, says Zhang.
He points out that many restaurants
are liquidating inventory, so rare, allocated
bottles are hitting the open market.
Wineries are also releasing library wines or
offering futures at a lower price.
Producers are playing the market right
now, too. Take, for example, Bêcheur, a new
project by Michael Terrien, winemaker at
Obsidian Ridge and Terrien Wines.
Seeing the recent surplus in California,
he offered to bottle and sell friends’ wine
under the Bêcheur label. This led to the
creation of a dynamic pricing model—each
bottle on the site has a detailed graphic—
to sell Mt. Veeder Syrah and Oakville
Cabernet Sauvignon, among others, at a
fraction of their normal prices.
These don’t have the labels that make
a wine collectible, but Terrien’s model is a
great way to get high-end, drink-now wine
on the cheap.
THE CONS
Rob McMillan, founder/executive vice
president of Silicon Valley Bank’s wine
division, agrees that it’s a good time to
invest, but with a few caveats. Tariffs on
some imported wine require a higher buy-in.
Longer term, societal changes could
affect investments, too. McMillan points
out that baby boomers are beginning to
retire, and their discretionary funds may
be allocated elsewhere.
There’s also a question about the
drinking behaviors of millennials.
According to market research firm Wine
Intelligence’s 2020 Landscapes report, the
number of regular wine drinkers in the U.S.
has decreased by 11 million since 2015.
People ages 21–34 account for 77% of that
decrease. There’s concern about how many
people will buy fine wine in the future.
Danny Brager, of Brager Beverage
Alcohol Consulting, urges wine investments
to safeguard the industry against the rise of
alternative beverages.
“I would suggest that not investing in
wine yields to competitive forces,” he says.
Of course, there’s no tidy answer as
EVAN JOSEPH
to whether or not now’s the right time to
invest in wine, but as Zhang says, if worse
comes to worst, you can always drink it.
BATTLE OF
THE BLENDS
JUSTIN ISOSCELES and JUSTIFICATION have a heritage
of excellence. Grapes grown in the limestone-rich soil
of Paso Robles, California, are hand-harvested, hand-
sorted, and aged in fine French oak barrels in the classic
old-world style. These unique blends have received 90+
points vintage after vintage and are yours to compare.

Exceptional from every angle.

justinwine.com

QUICHE
ME QUICK
Royalty among egg
dishes, the elegant quiche
Lorraine lends itself to
myriad variations, but
it always showcases a
simple silky custard laced
with salty pork. Baked
in a springform pan, this
version boasts maximum
eggy excellence. Use your
favorite pie dough or, to
make even easier, opt for
store-bought pie dough.
—Nils Bernstein
QUICHE LORRAINE
1 recipe pie dough, mixed and
chilled
6 ounces thick-cut bacon,
diced
1 small white onion, minced
4 ounces Gruyère cheese,
grated
2¼ cups half-and-half
4 large eggs
½ teaspoon salt
34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
RECIPE OF THE MONTH
Heat oven to 400˚F. Place 8-inch
springform pan on baking sheet
lined with parchment paper.
On lightly floured surface, roll
dough into circle about 1/3-inch
thick. With rolling pin, carefully
transfer dough to springform, then
use fingers to press evenly into bot-
tom and about 2 inches up sides of
pan. Chill for at least 15 minutes,
then prick base and sides with fork.
Line dough with foil or parch-
ment paper, and fill with dry beans
or pie weights. Bake until crust
begins to brown at edges, about
15 minutes. Remove lining and
weights, and bake 3–5 minutes, un-
til light golden. Cool to room tem-
perature, and reduce oven to 325˚F.
Meanwhile, fry bacon over me-
dium heat until it starts to crisp.
Transfer to plate lined with paper
towels. Add onion to pan, and cook
until translucent, about 2 minutes.
Remove from heat. Add bacon to
prepared crust, then layer in onion
and cheese.
In medium bowl, whisk half-
and-half, eggs and salt until well
combined. Pour into crust. Bake for
40–50 minutes, until filling is set,
but still soft and jiggly in center.
Cool at least 20 minutes, remove
from pan, and slice. Serves 6–8.
WINE PAIRING
Kuentz-Bas 2018
Tradition Riesling
(Alsace)
PHOTO: PENNY DE LOS SANTOS; STYLING: JUDY HAUBERT
Quiche Lorraine hails
from the Lorraine region
of northeast France,
which borders Alsace.
Appropriately, dry
Alsace Riesling makes
a supreme pairing.
While usually very dry,
these wines remain ripe
and full-bodied. This
selection’s acidity offers
contrast to the rich
dish, but also shares the
quiche’s opulent texture.

A LITTLE
TWINKLE
Semi-sparkling wines have less fizz and
a whole lot of character, so if you’re
someone who cranks your SodaStream
up to its highest setting, you may question
the appeal of a sparkling wine with less
effervescence. But this style of wine can
deliver a food-friendly balance of bubbles
and flavor. And if you’ve ever enjoyed a
bottle labeled “frizzante,” “pétillant,”
“spritzig” or “perlant,” you’ve already
experienced it. —Taylor Tobin
36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
BUBBLING UNDER
WHAT DOES SEMI-SPARKLING MEAN?
The pressure inside a wine bottle is measured in bars or units of atmosphere.
“The biggest difference between [sparkling and semi-sparkling] is the level of effervescence
produced in each bottle,” says Settimo Pizzolato, winemaker for Cantina Pizzolato in Villorba,
Italy. “Technically speaking, spumante wines are fully sparkling wines with over three bars of
pressure, while frizzante wines are semi-sparkling wines with between one and two- and-a-half
bars of pressure.”
Many semi-sparkling wines go through secondary fermentation, but some, like pétillant
naturel wines, don’t. According to Guy Pacurar, owner of Fathers + Daughters Cellars in
California, “the bubbles result from capturing the final portion of the primary fermentation
under pressure and as a result, the bubbles stay in the wine.”
WHICH WINES ARE SEMI-SPARKLING?
“Many Prosecco wines would even fall into this category without actually printing it on the
label,” says Kaitlyn Harrah, wine director of Fia Restaurant in Santa Monica, California. She says
some Moscato d’Asti can also be frizzante.
According to Tomasso Chiarli, export manager of Cleto Chiarli in Emilia-Romagna, many
Lambruscos also make the cut. They’re joined by a lot of sparkling rosés from California, many
bubbly Rieslings from the Finger Lakes, Paleokerisio skin-contact wine from Greece and Perlwein
from Germany. Some bottles have the pressure listed on the label, making it easy to tell.
DO THEY TASTE DIFFERENT?
Semi-sparkling wines offer a different flavor experience than their fully sparkling cohorts. Some
experts also believe that the less intense fizz makes them better
suited to food pairings.
“Fully sparkling wines tend to mute the varietal
characteristics of their component grapes,” says Jim Laughren,
author of 50 Ways to Love Wine More (Crosstown Publishing,
2018). “Instead of brioche, toast and [lees] as the dominating
flavors, frizzantes tend to showcase the actual grapes from
which they are made, and not the technique for making them.
Because frizzantes put the grapes front and center, they can be
a superior pairing with foods. They don’t elbow the food aside
to gain the dominant position.”
TOM ARENA

SQUASH
FOR A
NOSH
Creamy, sweet
butternut
complements
several wines’
greatest virtues.

BUTTERSCOTCH
As its name suggests, butternut
squash has a buttery quality.
Combined with its brown-sugar
sweetness, it’s reminiscent of
butterscotch. Well-toasted American
oak can impart this flavor, so look
for an oak-aged Chardonnay,
preferably from the U.S. Its rich tones
of butter and caramel are offset by
bright citrus notes.  complex savory side.
38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
PAIROLOGY

NUTTINESS
Again, butternut’s subtle nutty
character is right there in the name.
It’s why dishes that feature it often
go so well with nuts, as well as nut
liqueurs like Frangelico and Amaretto.
Skin-contact white wines have
nutty notes and honeyed spice that
marries well with butternut. They
match in color, too.  choice to bring out butternut’s more

EARTHINESS
Like other winter squashes and
root vegetables, butternut has a
pronounced earthiness that helps
offset its sweetness. Commonly grown
in Piedmont and less celebrated than
the region’s Nebbiolo-based wines,
Grignolino is unabashedly earthy and
spicy, with bright red fruit. It’s a great
B
utternut squash is
the quintessential
produce of fall and
winter. Rich and
smooth, it’s akin to
sweet potato, though less dense
in texture, and pumpkin, which
can be watery by comparison.
It’s also, without question, the
perfect partner for the spices
of the season: cinnamon, clove,
various curry blends, allspice,
ginger and nutmeg. Equally
suited for sweet or savory
preparations, it’s luscious in
desserts (it makes an even
better “pumpkin” pie), soups,
salads, gratins or just mashed
alongside your holiday roast.
—Nils Bernstein
PHOTO: PENNY DE LOS SANTOS; STYLING: JUDY HAUBERT

CREAMINESS
Butternut squash has a silky texture
and flavor that can also recall butter
or fresh cream. Try warm-climate
Sémillon from South America, South
Africa or California, ideally with some
oak. With flavors of salted butter
and beeswax, it’s a nicely weighty
alternative to Chardonnay.
 POWERED BY
WIND & SUNSHINE

Heidi Scheid, Wine Enthusiast’s

2020 Person of the Year, has been
a shining example of our core values
since joining the company in 1992.

Heidi has been a leader in our growth

as a grapes-to-glass wine company
for the global marketplace. She is
a champion of our award-winning
wines and sustainability mindset,
from being 100% powered by wind
to transitioning all 12 estate vineyards
to organic by 2025.

Heidi embodies our “Power of Positivity”

brand, Sunny with a Chance of Flowers.
This zero sugar, low calorie and low
alcohol wine is perfectly positioned in
the trending Better for You wine category.

Not only is Heidi our Executive

Vice President, she’s our Chief Sunny
PERSON OF THE YEAR
Officer and we congratulate her on
HEIDI SCHEID exemplifies this well-deserved award.
Scheid Family Wines’ core values;
Courage, Honesty, Respect,
Continuous Improvement,
Hard Work, Excellence,
and Innovation.

SCHEIDFAMILYWINES.COM
 GONE TO POT

T
he use of clay in winemaking dates back more
than 8,000 years to the nation of Georgia,
where pots called qvevri were used to age wine
underground. Similar dolium have roots around
the Mediterranean, while egg-shaped vessels
called  tinaja  are linked to Spain. Amphorae, smaller jars,
trace origins to ancient Greece and Rome.  
Recently trending among today’s winemakers and wine
lovers, various terracotta vessels are being embraced by other
beverage producers, too.   
Sebastian  Degens, owner of Portland, Oregon’s Stone
Barn Brandyworks, is one. While several spirits like mezcal,

CLAY
pisco and shochu have traditions in clay, Degens says his
inspiration for the distillery’s nocino and grappa came
from the wine industry. Both are aged in amphora-like pots
called novum made by fellow Oregonian Andrew Beckham of
Beckham Estate Vineyard.  
The sole commercial amphora producer in the U.S.,

TO WIN
Amphora and similar vessels
are being adopted by
brewers, distillers and more.
To read more about modern
brewers who embrace
Beckham’s produced pots for dozens of wineries. He’s now also
seeing interest from distilleries and breweries. 
Lead Brewer Ryan McNeive of Boulevard Brewing Company
in Kansas City, Missouri, was allured by the mineral and
earthy qualities made possible by clay contact.
He first experimented with clay last year. A mixed-culture
Belgian-style golden strong ale aged for six months together
with whole-crushed Vignoles grapes from local Les Bourgeois
Vineyard in a Tuscan amphora. Called Test, the limited release
was packaged in 750ml bottles. This year, McNeive plans to
age the ale for 11 months.  
“When you age beer in wood you get oak tannins and
leather, but with [clay], it’s totally different,” says McNeive,
who likens the sensation to “licking a brick.”  
These tactile characteristics are what offer a similar appeal
to bartenders.   
“The number one difference is texture,” says Douglas
Derrick, a district manager for Campari America. He’s credited
as one of the first to merge cocktails with clay. In 2015, he filled
a few 24-liter amphorae with the ingredients of a Negroni and
aged them underground for three months.   
“There’s a textural element that’s different from a classic
Negroni, and there’s a rustic oxidation quality that comes
through,” he says.  
It’s something Nick Korn, owner of Offsite, a Boston-based
event and brand strategy firm, believes is the natural next step
for craft cocktails.   
“It’s not a gimmick,” says Korn. “It’s another tool for
ALAMY

ancient techniques, visit

winemag.com/AmphoraBeer
experimentation.” —Jess Lander

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

The Luxury Lifestyle Community that combines three of life’s greatest passions: fine wine,
exquisite cuisine and travel. Become a member today and begin to earn and redeem points!

Join now at foleyfoodandwinesociety.com

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AND THE BEST WINE
OF THE YEAR IS…
The one you’re drinking right now.
W
ine is an ambitious
pursuit. It’s not just
for drinking, it’s for
studying, collecting
and discussing. Many
people who picked up this issue will have
flipped open to “The Enthusiast 100,” and
maybe marked down some bottles to try,
long before you’ll read this piece.
And that’s fine. I get it. Key to wine’s
allure are the sense of exploration and the
feeling that the more we study, the less we
actually know. We’ll never stop marking up
lists, or eagerly clicking links about new-
to-us regions.
Normally, this is the time of year
when we start to talk about our wine
resolutions—what will we learn about or
grow to appreciate or finally find and taste
42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
in the year ahead? It’s a fun exercise, and I
have a few of my own. One of them is trying
not to get too wrapped up, not to push
myself too hard.
After the year we’ve all had, I tell myself,
don’t forget to just enjoy what’s in your
glass. We don’t know when this pandemic
will end, and the fight for social and racial
equality and equity that sparked protests
this year is far from over. Uncertainty looms
for so many of us. It’s OK to take comfort
and happiness where we can find them.
One way to do that is to pour a glass of
wine, give it a swirl and a deep sniff, take a
sip and then take another one. We can take
momentary pleasure in what the vines and
the winemakers have given us.
It’s easy to enjoy a wine and immediately
start researching similar styles, or what
Uncertainty looms for so
many of us. It’s OK take
comfort and happiness
where we can find them.
the best examples are of that grape or
region. Working at this magazine, I have
a world of information at my fingertips to
do just that, and it’s a joy and privilege to
be able to go down those rabbit holes and
taste expansively.
That is, right up until the moment when
I start to feel competitive with myself,
wondering why I’m bothering with a wine
that might not be the very, very highest-
scoring, rarest or exemplar. That’s the
turning point, where wine stops being an
educational, pleasant hobby. I urge you all
to use this end-of-year time as a reset to
pull back from that.
While you’re perusing our best wines of
the year and making your lists of bottles to
seek out, or resolutions about what you’ll
taste and discover in 2021, take a second
to enjoy whatever wine you’re holding right
now. Just this once, don’t think too hard
about the depth of color or the mouthfeel.
Just let the taste wash over you, and with
it the vines that grew the grapes that made
it, and the sun, wind and soil that helped
those grapes ripen.
Now tell me that’s not the best wine
you’ve had all year.
TOP: PRISCILA ZAMBOTTO/GETTY IMAGES
Associate
Managing Editor
of Print Layla
Schlack closed her
eyes and enjoyed a
glass of Pinot Noir
after writing this.
 NO WINE FRIDGE? NO PROBLEM!

TAKE IT FROM MASTER SOMMELIER, JIM BUBE.

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The Drink Perfector takes your wine to the

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 THE ESSENCE OF

“
We are honored to represent a collection of the most exceptional and innovative wine
producers in Trentino, who truly embody the heart and soul of this incredible region.
Here, the combination of high-altitude vineyards, pristine mountain air, sun-filled
days, and cool nights create the foundation for world-class still and sparkling wines.”
©2020 Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL ©2020 Taub Family Selections, Boca Raton, FL

Saluté to our partners, and to Trentino

Wine Star Awards Wine Region of the Year!
President & CEO,
Palm Bay International
& Taub Family Selections
 of 2020
The Best Wines to Enjoy Now
BY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST
PHOTO BY TOM ARENA

This is it, folks. The end of 2020 is in sight. At the finish line of such a
difficult year, it’s cathartic to remember some positives that occurred in the last 12 months.
This year, for example, our global team of editors and tasters cumulatively reviewed more than
25,000 wines. For the November issue, we used those selections to put together a list of the
Top 100 wines for $15 or under. We then followed that up in the December issue with a list of
the Top 100 wines to stash away in the cellar.
Now comes the ultimate, The Enthusiast 100.
A ranking of the top wines we tasted over the last 12 months, this roster represents some of
the most exciting finds on the market today. Well-loved categories like Argentine Malbec, New
Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and California Pinot Noir are present and accounted for, but there’s
also plenty to discover beyond the mainstream, with Italian Lambrusco, Washington Grenache,
Tasmanian sparkling wines and beyond.
At the number one spot this year is a Napa Cabernet icon that delivers on its immense level
of quality, attainable price and wide availability—a trifecta that is often hard to come by in such
a premium wine region. The list as a whole is built to please a range of palates and budgets,
so you’ll find everything from widely available, attractively priced bottles to small-production,
natural offerings that wine lovers are geeking out over and everything in between.
With an average score of 93 points and average price of $34, these selections are ripe for
the picking.

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

WINEMAG.COM | 47
 ENTHUSIAST 100 I 2020
1 and tobacco while firm, velvety tannins provide
97 Lail 2017 Blueprint Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Made by Philippe Melka
and his team, this is a grippy, earthy wine, vibrant
in blue fruit, plum and sage. Round, lush and
opulent on the palate, it glides seamlessly across
supple, integrated tannin and oak, effortlessly
incorporating 11% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot.
The vineyard sources range from the producer’s
Mole Hill Estate on Howell Mountain to the
cooler reaches of Coombsville. —V.B.
abv: 14.9% Price: $80
2 Choice. —M.S.
96 Trimbach 2017 Sélection de Vieilles
Vignes Riesling (Alsace). Initial smoky
notes of reduction make way for a pervasive,
subtle but luminous lemon freshness on the nose
of this wine. The palate shows exquisite concen-
tration in lemon freshness. It’s bone dry, vivid
and fresh. Drink until 2045. Taub Family Selec-
tions. Editors’ Choice. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $36
3 and cherry flavors as lively acidity envelopes the
97 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2015
Brunello di Montalcino. Enticing aromas
of ripe wild berry, iris, camphor and sunbaked
soil take shape in the glass. Full in feel and envel-
oping, the smooth, delicious palate doles out
HOW THE WINES BREAK DOWN ARGENTINA : 3 I
48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
juicy Marasca cherry, raspberry jam, licorice
support. It boasts concentration and structure
but also balance, thanks to the fruit richness and
freshness. Drink 2023–2030. Indigenous Selec-
tions. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $50
93 Luca 2018 Old Vine Malbec (Uco Valley).
Concentrated black-fruit aromas along-
side hints of cardamom and coriander open
this lush Malbec. Blackberry, cassis and dark
plum flavors are pure and agile on the palate.
Enjoy through 2024. Vine Connections. Editors’
abv: 13.5% Price: $35
94 Paula Kornell NV Brut Méthode Champe-
noise (California). This inaugural release
is stunning and incredibly impressive—a wine well
worth stocking up on for the price and quality. A
beautiful jasmine aroma leads to marzipan, peach
palate. It’s a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20%
Pinot Noir. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 12% Price: $22
AUSTRALIA : 4 I AUSTRIA : 4 I CANADA : 1 I
6
95 Domaine de la Solitude 2017 Red
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Whiffs of dried
strawberry and cherry mingle into darker notes
of smoke and spice in this perfumed blend of
Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. A
luscious, voluminous sip, it floods the palate with
primary cherry and raspberry flavors but also a
crush of minerals, too. This readily approachable
wine with fine, silky tannins should gain earthier
complexities through 2030. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.
Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 14.5% Price: $48
7
95 Austin Hope 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). Quite dark in the glass,
this reliable crowd-pleaser begins with hearty
aromas of black currant, black plum, lush oak
and caramel, accented by a hint of olive and
loads of clove and nutmeg spice. The mouthfeel
is hearty and rich, with just enough tannic weight
to balance the creamy black-cherry, caramel and
chocolate-ice-cream flavors, which lead to an
oaky finish. —M.K.
abv: 15% Price: $56
8
93 Framingham 2019 Sauvignon Blanc
(Marlborough). This Sauvignon sees a bit
of skin contact and a short time in oak. The result
is a highly aromatic nose that’s unmistakably
Marlborough but with individuality. There are
aromas of gooseberry, pineapple rind, lime, black
currant and grass, with a flicker of toasty oak at
the back. The mouthfeel deftly balances a creamy
texture with zippy acidity. There’s fresh lime
and a saline edge to the finish. A food-friendly
CHILE : 4 I FRANCE : 17 I GERMANY : 3 I GREECE : 1
bottling, this could handle a wide range of richer
dishes. Evaton, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. 11 14
abv: 13% Price: $17

9
96 Brady Vineyard 2018 Zinfandel (Paso
Robles). Dense aromas of black currant,
red flowers and charred meat are wrapped in a
rocky edge on the nose of this bottling. There is
great cohesion to the palate, where rich red fruits
are cut by crushed stone flavors, lifted by savory
spice and framed by ample acidity and tannins.
Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 15% Price: $24

92 Santa Rita 2017 Medalla Real Gold Medal

Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
(Maipo Valley). Plum, berry and cassis aromas
give this single-vineyard sibling of Medalla Real
Gran Reserva a riper nose than its brother. A
fruity palate is fleshy and bursting with plum,
berry and chocolate flavors, while this Cabernet is
medium in depth on the finish. Drink now–2024.
Delicato Family Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $20
15
99 Ramey 2017 Rochioli Vineyard
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley).
Only the third vintage by this producer from a
spectacular site, this elegant wine is brimming
in tension and length. Delicate layers of Meyer
lemon, Gravenstein apple and pear show an
abundance on the palate, seasoned in salty
oak, nutmeg and a hint of cardamom. Editors’

94 El Coto 2012 Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva

(Rioja). Classic Rioja aromas of graphite,
cherry, plum and oak are lightly toasted and spicy.
12
Choice. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $70

On the palate, this offers chewy depth and impec-

cable balance. Ripe, heady plum, cassis and berry
flavors are also nuanced and elegant, while this gran
reserva from a ripe vintage tastes of vanilla and mild
oak on the finish. For an affordable high-quality gem,
look no further. Drink through 2028. Opici Wines.
Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $35
94 San Simeon 2019 Estate Reserve Pinot
Noir (Monterey). Fresh out of the gates,
this bottling is singing in opulent aromas of Bing
16
cherry pie, clove, mace and rosewater. There is a
wealth of baking spice on the palate, from nutmeg
to star anise, while the silky, smooth mouthfeel
presents flavors of cherry and mulberry. —M.K.
abv: 14.9% Price: $25

10 13

97 Williams Selyem 2018 Terra De Promissio

Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). The
Petaluma Gap site shows its innate earthiness
in droves here, opening in a rose petal aroma
before evolving slowly to reveal dense, delicate
layers of black tea, orange peel and allspice. The
savory tones lead to a midpalate that bursts of
rich berries, with soft, supple tannins framing it
all. —V.B.
abv: 13.9% Price: $65

92 Elk Cove 2019 Estate Pinot Gris (Willa-

mette Valley). Adam Campbell’s Pinot
Gris is one of Oregon’s best, year in and year
out. A lush and vivid mix of grapefruit, lemon
curd and candied orange peel, this new vintage
both surprises and delights. Such complexity is
rare in a grape mostly centered around apple and
pear flavors—both are here, but in a back seat
role. This unique mix is deliciously irresistible.
Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13% Price: $19
95 Dei 2016 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.
Fragrant blue flower, crushed aromatic
herb and wild berry aromas form the nose of
this smooth, full-bodied red. A blend of 90%
Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo Nero, it’s savory
and loaded with finesse, delivering juicy black
cherry, ripe blackberry, truffle and cocoa before
a star anise finish. Supple tannins and bright
acidity provide seamless support and balance.
Drink 2021–2031. Multiple U.S. importers.
Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $28

Average Rating: 93.46 Average Price: $34.11

ISRAEL : 1 I ITALY : 16 I NEW ZEALAND : 3 I PORTUGAL : 7 I SOUTH AFRICA : 1 I SPAIN : 5 I UNITED STATES : 30 CA: 19 / NY: 1 / OR : 5 / WA: 5

WINEMAG.COM | 49
 ENTHUSIAST 100 I 2020
17
95 Lingua Franca 2018 Avni Chardonnay
(Willamette Valley). This is a stunning
wine and a sensational value. Succulent, tangy
and concentrated in ripe fruit, it explodes with
flavors of lemon, peach, apricot and papaya
lifted by a squeeze of lime. Fermented in a mix
of concrete and neutral barrels, it was then aged
in new puncheons and neutral barriques. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.3% Price: $30
18
99 Brovia 2016 Garblèt Suè (Barolo). Wild
berry, iris, menthol, star anise and new
leather aromas follow over to the precise, full-
bodied palate along with juicy cherry, raspberry
compote and tobacco. Boasting elegance and
structure in equal measure, it has taut, refined
tannins and fresh acidity that will give this
decades of drinking pleasure. Drink 2026–2056.
Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $92
19
94 Vina Robles 2018 The Arborist Estate Red
Blend (Paso Robles). This is a scream-
ingly good deal, offering both hedonistic pleasure
and complexity through a blend of 41% Syrah,
35% Petite Sirah, 12% Grenache and 12%
Tannat. Aromas of roasted cherry, smoked meats
and cola spice lead into a hearty palate of black
currant, roasted game and licorice. It’s balanced
by bright acidity, making for a sip that will satisfy
many. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $18
50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
20
95 Massican 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). This is Winemaker Dan Petroski’s
nod to the Sauvignons of Northern Italy. Lemony
and sleek, it conjures notes of wet stone, brine
and complex, layered acidity, with lasting teases
of green apple and lemongrass. —V.B.
abv: 13.3% Price: $32
21
95 Paltrinieri 2019 Radice (Lambrusco
di Sorbara). Made by carrying out the
second fermentation in the bottle, this radiant,
lightly sparkling wine opens with heady aromas
of citrus, violet and a yeasty whiff of bread dough.
Bone-dry and delicious, the energized palate
delivers tart sour cherry, juicy pomegranate,
pink grapefruit and white pepper alongside crisp
acidity and a savory hint of saline. One bottle
probably won’t be enough. Lyra Wine. Editors’
Choice. —K.O.
abv: 11% Price: $20
22
96 Van Volxem 2016 Goldberg Riesling GG
(Mosel). Ephemeral compared with
grand cru expressions from the Mosel that are
increasingly stout, this finely etched dry Riesling
offers invigorating lemon and yellow-plum flavors
layered in smoke, flint and dusty minerals. It’s
lithe and steely but silky, too, with a bracing steel
edge. Tasted in 2020, it’s brilliantly fresh. Should
continue to improve well through 2035 and hold
further still. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 12% Price: $40
23
96 Castello di Neive 2017 Albesani Santo
Stefano (Barbaresco). Aromas of ripe
black-skinned fruit, fragrant blue flowers, new
leather and a whiff of menthol form the alluring
nose. Full in feel and savory, the enveloping
palate doles out fleshy Marasca cherry, raspberry
compote, crushed mint and tobacco set against
firm, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2023–2029.
LLS–Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40
24
95 Giant Steps 2019 Chardonnay (Yarra
Valley). The latest vintage of this
noteworthy producer’s Chardonnay is singing.
A harmonious, multifaceted nose offers notes
of bright citrus, fresh melon and flowers, while
a chorus of sun-baked stones and freshly baked
bread linger behind. Beautifully textural and
salty on the palate, it crunches with minerals
and vibrant fruit. The oak is tucked away and the
finish long and salty. Drink now–2030. Jackson
Family Wines. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $30
25
94 Birichino 2018 Besson Vineyard Old
Vines Grenache (Central Coast). From
vines planted in 1910, this wine impresses on
multiple levels. Aromas of dark berry, strawberry,
dried thyme and turned soil are both rustic and
refined. The palate is framed by fresh acidity and
a delightful rocky minerality, which give depth
to the cranberry, raspberry and herbal flavors.
Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25
26
95 Fontodi 2017 Chianti Classico. Fragrant
and delicious, this opens with aromas
of ripe black-skinned fruit, blue flower, leather,
underbrush and a whiff of French oak. The full-
bodied, enveloping palate delivers baked plum,
Marasca cherry, licorice and a note of espresso
framed in fine-grained enveloping tannins that
give it a smooth texture and a weightless finesse.
Vinifera Imports. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $39
27
95 Herdade do Esporão 2018 Esporão Private
Selection Sémillon (Alentejano). This is
a rare example of a 100% Sémillon wine from
Portugal, perhaps inspired by Winemaker David
Baverstock’s Australian background. Wood aged
and ageworthy, it is rich in tropical fruits, spice
and toastiness. While it could be enjoyed now, it
will be even better after 2023. Now Wine Imports.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $30
28
97 Millton 2017 Te Arai Vineyard Chenin Blanc
(Gisborne). Gorgeously textured, swinging
between unctuousness and freshness, this is a
soulful wine from New Zealand’s godfather of
biodynamics, James Millton. Millton’s reputation
for Chenin Blanc is equally mighty, and this
honey-hued beauty lives up to it in every way.
Highly aromatic, like a flower garden, it offers
heady scents of jasmine, hyacinth and lavender
combining with raw honeycomb, guava and
pineapple rind. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. Editors’
Choice. —C.P.
abv: 12% Price: $33
29 32
98 Franchetti–Passopisciaro 2018 Contrada
R Nerello Mascalese (Terre Siciliane).
Fragrant and loaded with finesse, this gorgeous
red stuns with captivating scents of pressed rose,
violet, red berry, white pepper as well as whiffs
of smoke and balsamic notes. Boasting extreme
elegance and intensity, the smooth, delicious
palate delivers strawberry jelly, raspberry
compote, cinnamon and flinty mineral framed
in smooth, silky tannins. Made from some
of the highest vineyards on Mount Etna and
100-year-old vines, it’s endowed with bright
acidity that keeps it superbly balanced. Drink
through 2030. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Editors’
97 Liminal 2018 High Canyon Series
WeatherEye Vineyard Grenache (Red
Mountain). The first thing one notices about
Choice. —K.O. this wine is the depth of color for the variety.
abv: 12.5% Price: $90 Coming from the Amphitheater block, the aromas
pop in notes of black raspberry, rose petal,
pomegranate and crushed rock. Red and black
30 fruit flavors undulate across the palate, showing
deftness, richness and detail. The finish goes on
as long—longer even than one cares to count.
Throughout it all, it retains a sense of balance and
freshness. It’s a yardstick against which future
Washington Grenache will be measured. Editors’
Choice. —S.S.
abv: 15% Price: $75
33
94 Margerum 2019 M5 Margerum Estate
Vineyard White (Los Olivos District).
Complex and yet utterly refreshing, this estate
blend of 45% Grenache Blanc, 21% Marsanne,
14% Viognier, 13% Roussanne and 7% Picpoul
Blanc begins with wet stone, chalk, nectarine,
Rainier cherry and creamed pear on the crisp
nose. The palate sizzles with acidity and ashy,
chalky tension, delivering flavors of kiwi, lychee
and more stone fruit. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
95 Tornatore 2019 Pietrarizzo Bianco (Etna).
Made predominantly from Carricante
with a drop of Catarratto, this smooth, stunning
abv: 12.8% Price: $29 white offers delicate, enticing scents of Spanish
broom, chamomile, ripe white-stone fruit and a
whiff of smoke. Savory and loaded with elegance,
31 the medium-bodied, focused palate features juicy
Meyer lemon, ripe Bartlett pear, golden apple and
96 Ata Rangi 2017 Pinot Noir (Martin-
borough). From extremely low-yielding,
organic vines, this flagship Pinot, which sees 30%
tangy, saline mineral notes. Bright acidity lends
tension and balance. Drink through 2025. LUX
Wines. —K.O.
whole bunch and a native yeast fermentation, is abv: 13% Price: $55
beautifully expressive. Complex, harmonious and
elegant, it ripples with pristine, brambly fruit,
dried flowers, spices, river stone minerality and
a savory, meaty nuance. The palate is silky, with
crystalline acidity and laced with fine, chalky
tannins. Still a baby, this needs a decanter to
drink now but will age well through 2040. Verity
Wine Partners. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $55
WINEMAG.COM | 51
 ENTHUSIAST 100 I 2020
34
94 Michelini i Mufatto 2018 GY Malbec-
Cabernet Franc (Tupungato). A pure
and direct nose is highly exact and confident,
with aromas of black fruit that are crisp and
clean. A tight, juicy palate is balanced by ample
roundness, while this delivers high-quality berry
and plum flavors that are familiar to fans of
Argentine Malbec. This is 60% Malbec and 40%
Cabernet Franc. Drink through 2026. Brazos Wine
Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $30
35
94 Michele Chiarlo 2017 Cipressi (Nizza).
Vinous aromas of just-pressed grapes,
fragrant blue flower and mature blueberry form
the inviting nose along with whiffs of graphite and
underbrush. Chewy and delicious, the smooth,
concentrated palate doles out succulent black
cherry, crushed blackberry, star anise and a hint
of game alongside velvety tannins. Drink through
2025. Kobrand. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $30
36
93 Abbazia di Novacella 2019 Sylvaner (Alto
Adige Valle Isarco). Apricot, citrus and
smoke aromas form the nose of this radiant,
fragrant white. On the racy, delicious palate,
vibrant acidity and flinty mineral notes lend
tension and depth to ripe yellow peach, juicy
grapefruit and ginger. Abbazia di Novacella USA.
Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
37
93 Anselmo Mendes 2019 Contacto
Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). From the
producer’s home region of Monção and Melgaço,
this wine is made, unusually for Vinho Verde,
using skin contact. That gives it an extra
dimension of richness and fullness. The wine’s
apple flavors have concentration and, along with
the texture, suggest potential for aging. Drink
ideally from 2021. Grape2Glass. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $20
38
94 François Villard 2017 Les Contours de
Deponcins Viognier (Vin de France). More
floral and freshly fruited than the producer’s
Terrasses bottling, this sunny Viognier wafts of
orchard peaches, rose petals and honeysuckle.
It’s a plush, sensual sip held upright by a crush
of minerality and lingering tea tannins. Ready
52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
to drink now, it will hold through 2030. Jack
Edwards Collection. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. 43
abv: 14% Price: $28
39
95 Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Freedom Hill
Vineyard Dijon 115 Clone Pinot Noir (Willa-
mette Valley). A striking, dense and muscular
wine, this is a standout among a slew of Freedom
Hill designates from Patricia Green Cellars. Sappy
blackberry and black-cherry fruit are streaked
with highlights of red licorice, coffee and a whiff
of charred wood. The tannins are polished and
firm, and at 14 years of age, these vines are just
93 De Stefani NV Rive di Refrontolo Brut Nature
(Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Ra-
diant and loaded with finesse, this lovely sparkler
entering their prime. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. opens with floral and fruit aromas of hawthorn,
abv: 14% Price: $48 acacia and yellow pear. The bone-dry, linear pal-
40
ate delivers mature green apple, white peach and
a savory mineral note alongside a foaming mousse.
Bright acidity keeps it balanced and energized. Eth-
ica Wines. —K.O.
abv: 11.5% Price: $32
44
95 Russiz Superiore 2016 Riserva Sauvignon
(Collio). A benchmark for Italian whites,
this wine opens with inviting aromas of honeydew
melon, exotic fruit, aromatic herb and a whiff of
baking spice. On the delicious, polished palate,
fresh acidity accompanies ripe apricot, white
peach, gooseberry, cantaloupe and pastry cream
95 J. Lohr 2016 Cuvée Pau (Paso Robles).
This is a dense and detailed wine,
starting with rich, inviting aromas of dark
before a lingering lemon-drop finale. Dalla Terra berries, cherries, cocoa, vanilla and mocha on
Winery Direct. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. the nose. Those lavish tones carry to the palate,
abv: 13.5% Price: $43 which is framed by chiseled tannins. But the most
intriguing aspects are the wild array of oregano
and dried herbs that decorate the blackberry-jam
41 and cherry-juice core. —M.K.
93 Mount Eden Vineyards 2017 Old Vines
Chardonnay (Edna Valley). Pleasantly
abv: 14.9% Price: $60
briny hints of sea spray and beach dew meet 45
with golden nuts and dried lemon peels in the
intensely complex nose of this bottling. The
texture is compelling, leading into full flavors of
lemon balm, salted macadamia nuts, orange rind
93 Lieubeau 2017 Cru Goulaine (Muscadet
Sèvre et Maine). From one of the desig-
nated cru villages, this wine is ripe with maturity.
and creamy guava peel. —M.K. That gives the wine a rich, nutty character as well
abv: 14% Price: $23 as hints of yellow fruits and a soft final texture.
It is concentrated and ready to drink. European
Cellars. —R.V.
42 abv: 12.5% Price: $24
94 Pascal & Alain Lorieux 2018 Thélème
(Chinon). Rich with black fruits, this
smoothly textured wine has a smoky character
46
from wood aging. Still young and with tannins
still present, it is just beginning to show its full
richness. It will be best from 2022. Serge Doré
96 Alain Voge 2017 Les Vieilles Vignes
(Cornas). Old vines averaging 60 years
and long oak maturation (20% in new oak) lend
Selections. —R.V. spicy, sweet notes of cinnamon toast and clove to
abv: 14% Price: $35 deeply concentrated black plum and blackberry
flavors in this wine. It’s a creamy Syrah, balanced
by tart cassis acidity and ripe but firm, lingering
tannins. Delicious already, the wine should show
even better from 2022 and improve through
2037. Citadel Trading. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $85
47
93 Pflüger 2018 Bunstandstein Pinot Noir
Trocken (Pfalz). Spicy notes of burnt
caramel and black pepper accent intensely ripe
black cherry and plum in this delightfully juicy,
concentrated red. It’s an immediately enjoyable,
gorgeously red-berried sip but boasts a firm
acidic backbone and subtleties of earth and herb.
A fantastic value for such a satisfying wine. Valck-
enberg International, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $22
48
93 Laurent Gauthier 2018 Côte du Py
(Morgon). Like so many producers in
Morgon, this grower has a piece of the 100-acre
Côte du Py. This structured wine is rich, laden
with tannins as well as massive black fruits. It has
the concentration to age well. Drink from 2021.
American Northwest Distributors Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $35
49
94 Quinta do Crasto 2016 Reserva Vinhas
Velhas (Douro). A blend of 30 grape
varieties from vines aged at least 70 years old,
this wine boasts density and a firm structure. It’s
powered by tannins, dark black-fruit flavors and
great concentration, and is an impressive wine
that needs much more time. Drink from 2022.
Folio Fine Wine Partners. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $45
50
96 Château la Gaffelière 2017 Saint-Émilion.
This wine has good structure, delicious
black-currant fruits and powerful tannins.
Its dry core will drive this wine forward as it
matures. The aftertaste brings out the fruit-
iness of the vintage. Drink from 2024. K&L Wine
Merchants. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $85
51
93 Failla 2018 Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). You’ll have to search far and wide
to find a Willamette Valley Pinot this good at this
price. Winemaker Ehren Jordan is a proven Pinot
master, and works his magic here, using fruit from
top Chehalem Mountain and Eola-Amity sites.
This offers a well-integrated mix of fruit and
barrel flavors, blackberries, black cherry, mocha
and coffee. The ripe and focused tannins add
notes of espresso and toasted hazelnuts; the wine
is a sheer joy to drink. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.1% Price: $28
52
97 Gunter Triebaumer 2018 Ruster Ausbruch
(Burgenland). A hint of musk, a touch
of vanilla and the promise of creaminess starts
this off. On the palate, this vision blossoms
into apricot-scented sweetness and concen-
trated richness of apricot compote. All this is
pervaded by equally concentrated freshness,
piercing through with lemony brightness. Circo
Vino. —A.K.
abv: 9% Price: $54/375 ml
53
93 Château Vincens 2018 Origine (Cahors).
Still totally young, this dense, structured
and tannic wine shows strong wood aging flavors.
Licorice and bitter chocolate emphasize the
wine’s youth and fine future. Drink from 2023.
W. Direct. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $28
54
93 Vignobles Brumont 2016 Château
Bouscassé (Madiran). Mainly Tannat
with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon,
this wine comes from the home estate of Madiran
leader Alain Brumont. It balances bold tannins
from all three grapes with the power of black
fruits, acidity and density. It needs to age and
will be ready from 2022. Regal Wine Imports Inc.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $25
55
93 Hermann J. Wiemer 2018 Reserve
Dry Riesling (Seneca Lake). Sourced
from three estate vineyards (15% HJW, 20%
Magdalena and 65% Josef), this reserve offers
ripe aromas of apple, pineapple and apricot that
are delicately perfumed with ginger and blossoms.
Rounded in feel, the palate shows pineapple and
peach, lifted by reverberating jolts of lemon peel
and white tea. It shows great texture and depth,
ending dry and stony. —A.P.
abv: 12.7% Price: $29
56
92 Summer Water 2019 Rosé (Central
Coast). A pale salmon-pink color in
the glass, this widely available bottling of 85%
Grenache and 15% Syrah delivers a fantastic
nose of melon, bubblegum and soft rose petals.
It’s clean and chalky on the palate, with a light
cantaloupe flavor and a surprisingly long finish.
Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $20
57
92 Markus Huber 2019 Terrassen Grüner
Veltliner (Traisental). A subtle tone of
yeast on the nose has a bright edge of lemon zest.
The palate also combines savory, textured yeast
with tingling, zesty lemon, resulting in a lovely
combination of richness and tangy freshness.
The body is slender, concentrated, dry and vivid.
Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $18
58
93 Zuccardi 2018 Poligonos del Valle de Uco
San Pablo Cabernet Franc (Uco Valley).
This racy Cabernet Franc from winemaker
Sebastián Zuccardi is made entirely in concrete.
Plum and berry tones are full and fresh on the
nose and palate, while flavors of black fruit,
herbs, tea and tomato linger on the smooth finish.
Drink through 2024. Winesellers, Ltd. Editors’
Choice. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30
WINEMAG.COM | 53
 ENTHUSIAST 100 I 2020
59
93 Clover Hill NV Tasmanian Cuvée Méthode
Traditionnelle Rosé (Tasmania). Clover
Hill’s sparklers show off Tasmania’s prowess
when it comes to serious, traditional method
bubbly. With this golden, rose-tinted wine, the
nose opens with yeasty, honeyed, baked pear
notes with just sprinkles of ground clove, ginger
spice and cherry blossoms. The creamy texture
is lifted by persistent bubbles. There’s a slight
bitterness to the finish, and it lacks a little depth
of flavor, but overall this is quite the classy drop.
Little Peacock Imports. —C.P.
abv: 12.5% Price: $30
60
92 Dos Almas 2015 Apogeo de Apalta
(Colchagua Valley). Blackberry and
blueberry aromas meld with a bit of tar on
the nose. A full and layered palate brings the
intensity, while this Cabernet Sauvignon-lead
blend tastes of blackberry, chocolate and a touch
of green herbs. Toasty oak lends smokiness to a
finish that fades with grace. 1821 Fine Wines &
Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $50
61
94 Château Bouscaut 2017 White (Pessac-
Léognan). A rich, creamy wine, this is
perfumed, textured and full of tangy orange and
lemon flavors. Fruit is just part of the package,
with the toast, spice and light tannins adding
further complexity. Drink from 2021. Joanne
Bordeaux USA. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $50
54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
62
95 Louis Roederer 2014 Brut Rosé
(Champagne). The Roederer style has
become drier as the fruit has become riper and
this finely balanced Champagne is an excellent
example. Taut and textured, with great freshness
allied to the mineral and fruit tones, this wine just
hints at tannins as it moves towards maturity.
Drink from 2022. Maisons Marques & Domaines
USA. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $89
63
93 Quinta da Rede 2018 Grande Reserva
White (Douro). Arinto and Rabigato in
equal proportions and nine months in wood have
produced an impressively rich, creamy, spicy
wine. It is dense from lees aging, ripe and full of
white fruits that are touched by citrus. Drink this
fine wine from 2021. M Imports, LLC. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $32
64
92 Tiberio 2019 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. This
richly hued pink wine starts off with
a nose of freshly pressed cherries and black-
berries—stems and all. While the fruit is intense
and concentrated, there are earthy base notes
of herbs and bramble that tie it all together. It’s
full yet fresh on the palate, showing amazing
purity to the berry fruit flavors. Slicks of crushed
stone and herbs keep this lifted and energized.
It’s an excellent offering from this estate winery
located in the Pescara province of Abruzzo.
Drink now–2021. The Sorting Table. Editors’
Choice. —A.P.
abv: 14% Price: $20
65
93 Wilson Foreigner 2018 Rancho Chimiles
Valdiguié (Napa Valley). This is a beauti-
fully complex, beguiling and lifted red wine,
tasting of plum and dark cherry dappled in white
pepper and dried herb. Fermented in concrete
tank and aged in neutral oak, the grapes are grown
on the ranch owned and farmed by the Wilson
family in the far reaches of the eastern Napa
Valley. —V.B.
abv: 12.7% Price: $34
66
93 William Fèvre 2018 Champs Royaux
(Chablis). A subtle hint of tangerine on
the nose dissipates to leave ripe lemon brightness.
The palate is beautifully concentrated, juicy and
fresh, brimming with lemon-edged Mirabelle
fruitiness. A chalky depth anchors everything in
more coolness despite the ripe, rounded vintage.
Maisons and Domaines Henriot. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $35
67
93 González Byass NV Nectar Dulce Pedro
Ximénez (Jerez). A smooth nose deals typi-
cal P.X. aromas of chocolate, fig and raisin. On the
palate, this is thick and a touch chewy but that’s not
abnormal for this type of wine. Rich flavors of café
mocha and chocolate finish long, sweet and satisfy-
ing. Gonzalez Byass USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 15% Price: $25
68
92 Involuntary Commitment 2018 Red
(Columbia Valley). This side project from
the folks at Andrew Will is consistently one of
the best values in the state. A blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, with
coffee, cherry and savory herb aromas out front.
The palate brings a sense of balance, intensity,
depth, purity and sophistication. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
69
92 Penley Estate 2018 Phoenix Cabernet
Sauvignon (Coonawarra). Tannin hounds
rejoice, this quintessential Aussie Cab is awash
with plump currant and plum fruit, with bay leaf,
olive, tobacco and eucalyptus tones all cinched
by muscular, leathery tannins. It’s a powerful but
balanced wine crying out for a slab of rare steak.
Drink now–2035. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P.
abv: 14% Price: $20
 92 pts

2020

EDITOR’S
CHOICE
2020

©2020 The Portfolio Group, Manteca, CA

BASED ON A REAL STORY

Over 30 years ago, in 1987, before Maipo was a renowned wine valley a bottle of Medalla Real Cabernet Sauvignon
1984 changed the history of Chile´s wine industry. This wine outscored 35 Cabernet, including strong French, Spanish,
and Californian contenders to become the first Chilean wine to win the Paris Wine Olympics.
 ENTHUSIAST 100 I 2020
70
92 Biokult 2019 Naken Made With Organic
Grapes White (Burgenland). Pink-hued
and funky, this skin-contact orange wine brims
with clementine and orange peel notes on the
nose, supported by an overtone of honeysuckle.
The light palate has a texture reminiscent of citrus
pith and tingles with freshness, while clementine
and white pepper notes are highlighted by the
bone-dry nature. It is compelling and wonderfully
light. Natural Merchants, Inc. —A.K.
abv: 10.5% Price: $20
71
92 Matchbook 2017 The Arsonist Red Blend
(California). This wine is superconcen-
trated and complex in its array of red and black
fruit flavors, with subtle oak spices and a rich
texture. A blend of Petit Verdot, Malbec and
Cabernet Sauvignon, it has a mouthcoating effect
and a lingering gorgeous finish. —J.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $22
72
92 Tement 2019 Kalk & Kreide Sauvignon
Blanc (Südsteiermark). Flinty reduction
hovers on the still shy nose. The palate comes in
with ease and gentle spritz, presenting vivid, pure
lemon and a certain fragrant creaminess without
tipping over into obvious varietal flavors. This is a
Sauvignon Blanc about texture, with a juicy, dry,
mouthwatering finish. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $20
73
92 Caliterra 2017 Tributo Carmenère
(Colchagua Valley). Berry and black plum
aromas meld with and herbal accent in this typical
Colchagua Valley Carmenère. On the palate, this
is full and dense, with just enough lively acidic
pop. Toasty, spicy flavors of smoky oak accent a
56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
core of blackberry and cassis, while this is long
and slightly tannic on a well-focused finish. Drink
through 2024. Seaview Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
74
92 Moulin de la Roque 2016 Les Adrets Red
(Bandol). This elegantly perfumed wine
is almost entirely Mourvèdre. Flavors of mint and
rich blackberry are well integrated, giving a wine
that still brings out fruit while just moving into
a mature, complete phase. Drink now. Scoperta
Importing Co. Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $21
75
91 Bonterra 2018 Made with Organic Grapes
Merlot (California). The black-fruit flavors
in this full-bodied and moderately tannic wine go
deep and broad, filling the palate with rich berries
and black cherries. Hints of cocoa and dark
chocolate add interest and complexity, too. —J.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $16
76
92 L’Ecole No. 41 2019 Luminesce Estate
Grown Seven Hills Vineyard Sauvignon
Blanc-Semillon (Walla Walla Valley). This wine is
equally split between the two varieties. Pleasing
aromas of pear, citrus, fig, mineral and herb
are followed by rounded, textured flavors that
lead to a warm finish. The acidity is heightened
compared to recent vintages, making the flavors
snap. Give it a few years in the cellar to see it at
its best. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14% Price: $22
77
92 Casa Relvas 2018 Herdade de São Miguel
Escolha dos Enólogos Red (Alentejano).
Taken from a selection in the cellar, this
wood-aged wine is a rich blend that includes
Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet, Syrah,
Cabernet Sauvignon and others. It has structure
as well as powerful black fruit flavors that come
through the dark chocolate and spice accents.
Drink from 2022. Quintessential Wines. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $23
78
92 Dalton 2017 Alma Crimson (Galilee). Dark
red-violet in color, this wine has aromas
of black plum and violet, with the faintest touch
of green pepper. It feels good on the palate, with
subdued but ever-present tannins and flavors
of black cherry, cassis, caramel and thyme that
continue into a lively finish. Kosher. Allied
Importers, USA, Ltd. —M.D.
abv: 14.5% Price: $23
79
92 Cave L’Aurance 2015 Brut Milléseimé
(Crémant de Bourgogne). Notes of
ripe Mirabelle and dried apricot point to some
evolution on the nose. The fine foam and richness
on the palate carry the same, presenting mellow
freshness and fine, smooth, salty, yeasty autolysis.
While elegant and smooth, the palate has a spine
of freshness. Allied Beverage Group. —A.K.
abv: 11.5% Price: $24
80
92 Bodegas Riojanas 2016 Viña Albina
Reserva (Rioja). Mild reduction on the
nose leaves room for earthy plum and berry
scents as well as floral aromas. This reserva from
a great vintage is lively and juicy on the palate,
with rubbing tannins that should soften in short
order. Cherry, cassis and wood spice flavors finish
dry and firm, with residual red fruit notes. Drink
through 2025. Bodegas Riojanas. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $24
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 ENTHUSIAST 100 I 2020
81
91 Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen 2018
Eroica Riesling (Columbia Valley). The
aromas are vibrant, with notes of lime leaf, whole
lime and wet slate. Medium-bodied, off-dry lime
and white-peach flavors follow, with mouthwa-
tering acidity upping the interest. Nestea Iced
Tea notes linger on the finish. Pair it with shrimp
ceviche with diced mango and lime juice. Editors’
Choice. —S.S.
abv: 12% Price: $20
82
92 Luke 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke
Slope). Aromas of fresh raspberry, bitter-
sweet chocolate and dried herb pop on the nose.
The palate is ripe, delicious, fruit filled and
lip-smacking, displaying a lot of density, intensity
and texture. Give this beauty a short decant if
drinking in the near term. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $25
83
92 CVNE 2017 Monopole Clásico Viura
(Rioja). Aromas of lightly oxidized white
fruit open this white Rioja. A full and complex
palate is supported by core acidity, while this
Viura-based classic tastes salty and woody, with
apple, leesy yeast and dry oak notes driving a
smooth finish. This contains some Manzanilla
Sherry in an ode to how the wine was made 75
years ago. Drink through 2024. Arano LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30
84
90 Hecht & Bannier 2019 Rosé (Côtes
de Provence). A rich wine full of ripe
raspberry flavors, this spicy blend includes
Grenache and Cinsault along with a touch of
Vermentino. Drink now for best enjyoment.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
85
93 Glenelly 2013 Lady May (Stellenbosch).
This is a beautiful, expressive wine, with
loads of potpourri, dried floral and cinnamon-
spice notes that lead on the nose and ride atop
the decadent fruit tones of blackberry, boysen-
berry and black plum flesh. The palate is full and
smooth, yet not overdone or overly opulent, with
more of those ripe black fruit flavors that are
partnered with tones of tilled earth, licorice, light
char and freshly ground coffee. The tannins are
structuring, yet well integrated into the mix, with
a long finish to seal the deal. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $55
86
92 Day 2016 TNT Tannat (Applegate Valley).
Sourced from the Layne Vineyard, this
makes a strong case for Tannat in the Applegate
Valley. Winemaker Brianne Day does not shy away
from risk in pursuit of natural, unmanipulated
wines, with wild yeast and no fining or filtering.
The lush midpalate is loaded with berries and
cherries, and the finish is threaded with details of
citrus and herbs. One-third whole clusters were
used, along with one-third new oak (a Russian
oak puncheon). Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13% Price: $33
87
92 Michael David 2017 Inkblot Petit Verdot
(Lodi). This big but seductive wine is
immensely flavorful and tannic but also polished
in feel. It’s brimming with ripe, lush blackberry
and blueberry flavors that are deftly accented
by vanilla, chocolate and nutmeg. Best through
2026. —J.G.
abv: 15% Price: $35
88
91 Wittmann 2018 100 Hills Dry Pinot Blanc
(Rheinhessen). Vibrant, transparent
grapefruit and pear flavors extend from nose to
finish in this fantastic value Pinot Blanc. Full
bodied and juicy on the palate, it’s balanced by
zesty tangs of lemony acidity and a lingering
note of smoked hazelnut. Enjoy now–2022
to maximize its vital style. Loosen Bros. USA.
Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $16
89
91 Produttori di Manduria 2017 Lirica
(Primitivo di Manduria). Cohesive aromas
of tilled earth, tobacco and peppery spice are
well-integrated into a rich cherry jam core on
the nose. This is full, rounded and juicy in feel,
showing luscious fruit jam flavors that don’t
falter or loose definition, thanks to lifted acidity
and a firm framing of polished tannins. Tobacco,
earth and violet tones bring added depth, with a
cherry skin tone lingering on the close. Massanois
Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.P.
abv: 14.5% Price: $16
90
92 Navarro 2019 Late Harvest Gewurztra-
miner (Anderson Valley). This gorgeously
sweet wine is well balanced enough to serve
before or during a meal as well as with dessert.
It offers wonderful rose-petal and grapefruit
flavors, a rich texture and a touch of brisk acidity
to counter the sweetness. —J.G.
abv: 11% Price: $25/375 ml
91
91 Granbazán 2019 Etiqueta Verde Albariño
(Rías Baixas). Apple and other white fruit
aromas come with a touch of lanolin, while this
is fresh yet rounded on the palate. Nice flavors of
golden apple, white stone fruits and sea salt finish
with good length. Drink this rock-solid Albariño
through 2021. Europvin USA. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $18
 ENTHUSIAST 100 I 2020
92
91 Kettmeir 2019 Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige).
Hawthorn and yellow pear aromas form
the nose. The aromas segue over to the smooth,
crisp palate, along with white peach, baking spice
and a hint of white almond. Vibrant acidity lifts
the creamy, delicious flavors. Santa Margherita
USA. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
93
91 Louis Latour 2018 Marsannay. The flinty
promise of slight reduction is the first
notion on the nose of this wine, followed by a
bright, juicy red-cherry tone. The palate also
has that appetizing flintiness surrounding ripe,
almost fleshy cherry that sits around a core of
freshness. Subtle, juicy tannins appear on the
appealing finish. Louis Latour Inc. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $32
94
92 Cossart Gordon 2008 Colheita Single
Harvest Verdelho (Madeira). At 12 years
old, this wood-aged Madeira has plenty of fruit
to go with lifted acidity. Orange and candied
lemon-peel flavors are preserved by the wine’s
total freshness and spicy. Drink now. Vineyard
Brands. —R.V.
abv: 19% Price: $48/500 ml
For more on this year’s list, visit
winemag.com/2020Top100
60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
95 98
90 Nasiakos 2018 Agiorgitiko (Pelopon-
nese). This wine starts with red fruit,
warming spice and cedar aromas. On the palate, it
brings an elegant balance of forest fruit, spice and
smoke. The wine’s style is soft and rich, with a
lingering blackberry finish. Pair with lamb or soft
cheeses. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K.
abv: 13% Price: $17
91 Undurraga 2019 T.H. Terroir Hunter
Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). A bright 99
nose delivers a shot of fresh lime backed by
cilantro, vanilla and sea spray. A sleek and juicy
palate is cut by piercing acidity, while lime,
tangerine and tarragon flavors wrap up on a
cleansing finish. This shows all the attributes
of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc at its best. Freedom
Beverage Co. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $22
96
90 DFJ Vinhos 2017 Aluado Reserva Alicante
Bouschet (Lisboa). This rich, dense
wine is powered by dark black fruits and ripe
tannins. It exudes structure and concentration,
with big blackberry fruits that keep freshness
very much upfront. Drink now. Lionstone
91 Illuminati 2017 Ilico Riserva (Montep-
ulciano d’Abruzzo). A dense core of
red-cherry coulis is lifted up by bright mentho-
International. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $18
lated herbs and tobacco on the nose of this
riserva. Medium in weight, there’s a tangy 100
cherry tone to the palate, with firm, finely knit
tannins and pulsing acidity providing the frame.
More herbs and a slight granite twang linger on
the finish. Montcalm Wine Importers. Editors’
Choice. —A.P.
abv: 13.5% Price: $24
97
90 Robert Oatley 2017 Shiraz (McLaren
Vale). The Oatley reds are often tightly
wound, even austere, at first. But give this wine
time in a glass or decanter and it becomes a
much more vibrant and elegant drop. Plums,
91 Cave Spring 2018 Riesling (Niagara
Peninsula). Balance is the watchword for
this wine, reaching across the dynamic tension
brambly berries, dark chocolate and licorice between the residual fruit sugar and the searing
are backed by earthy, savory spices. Power acidity. In the mix are tangy flavors of apple,
and elegance play together, wound by savory white melon, lemon and tangerine. Editors’
tannins. Overall, this is a balanced and restrained Choice. —P.G.
bottling. Drink now–2027. Pacific Highway Wines abv: 11% Price: $17
& Spirits. —C.P.
abv: 14% Price: $20
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 BORDEAUX’S
PREMIERCREW
The region’s five first growths make some of the most sought-after
wines in the world. Get to know the stories behind the legends.
BY
ROGER
VOSS
S
ince the 1855 classification, the first growths of Bordeaux
Médoc and Graves have stood at the top of the heap,
the monarchs of all they survey. Other chateaus, however good,
can aspire to, but never seem to reach, the pinnacle of these five
(originally, four).
Chateaux Lafite-Rothschild, Mouton Rothschild, Latour, Margaux and
Haut-Brion: What sets them apart? What magic stardust has been sprinkled
on them to offer such enduring status?
The alpha and omega is the terroir. All five have magnificent vineyards.
The richness of the gravel and clay makes a natural home for Cabernet
Sauvignon, the premier grape for all five. Owners may have come and gone,
but those vineyards remain treasured.
Over the decades, the soil and vines have been observed, fussed over
and analyzed almost to excess. Every wrinkle is known and, increasingly,
62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
understood. That attention to detail has translated into the cellar
and the wine.
Climate change has increased the need for observation. Sandwiched
between the Gironde estuary and the Atlantic Ocean, the Médoc-based first
growths have seen little change so far. In fact, at Mouton and Lafite, they
glory in the increased ripeness of the Cabernet Sauvignon and its higher
percentage of the blend.
But these titans are also planning for the future. At Château Margaux,
when vines are replanted, they’re now oriented away from the sun, and Merlot
is replaced with Cabernet Franc.
These are multimillion-dollar businesses. They sell wines at prices above
the market, and they promote them stylishly and effortlessly. But they owe
their success to what goes into the land, and what comes out of it. Keep
reading to learn more about how they keep their legacies strong.
 Château Lafite-Rothschild
The Iron Fist in the Velvet Glove
Standing in the courtyard of Château Lafite-Rothschild, one must turn away
from the structure to look at one of the most dramatic vineyard sites in the
world. Rising steeply in a majestic curve, known as the Dome, are rows of
FRANÇOIS POINCET/CHÂTEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD (2)
Cabernet Sauvignon vines. They climb up to the plateau that forms the heart
of Lafite’s Grand Vin, its first wine.
Of the 276 acres of vines that form the estate, this 172-acre core is where
Château Lafite-Rothschild’s Grand Vin is produced.
“It has a very special composition,” says Eric Kohler, the technical director
since 2015. “It is on a plateau, deep gravel mixed with clay. That mix balances
the water when it is needed in the summer.”
The vineyard has remained unchanged since the French branch of the
Rothschild family bought the estate in 1868.
“While we have enlarged the estate for our second wine, Carruades, the
Grand Vin vineyard is very stable, with many vines that are over 50 years
old,” says Kohler.
He arrived in 1992. Since then, he says that 75% of the changes have been
in the vineyard, with drainage and better observation of the vines.
“We are now effectively organic, although we do not want to be certified,”
says Kohler. “In 2019 and 2020, we were totally organic.”
Lafite is the expression of its terroir each year, a wine that ages even
though recent vintages have seemed more accessible when young.
“The wine is a subtle blend of power and softness,” he says. It would be
easy to make a powerful wine, “but we want the softness with the power in
the background.”
As the percentage of Merlot in the Grand Vin blend falls, currently no
more than 8%, the need to control the natural power of the Cabernet
Sauvignon increases.
Alcohol levels are always modest at Lafite. This year, the final blend will
likely be 13% alcohol by volume (abv). That modesty comes from the same
aim. Lafite is a wine that has force, but it always retains that softness.
WINEMAG.COM | 63
Château Mouton Rothschild
Opulence and Velvet Tannins
Château Mouton Rothschild is the sunniest of the first growths, the most
opulent and the richest. It has always been like this, sometimes excessively
so. Today, it’s more restrained and succulent.
Of course, it’s all down to the vineyard, some 200 acres planted in gravel
that’s up to 22 feet deep in places, with a chalk subsoil.
It’s the highest point in Pauillac (all of 80 feet above sea level) with two
plateaus of vines, one close to the chateau called Le Grand Plateau, and the
other named Le Plateau des Carruades. A small dip between the two gives a
pause in this intensity of vines and gravel.
Mouton Rothschild was not among the four first growths in the 1855 clas-
sification. It became a first growth in 1973, after decades of lobbying by owner
Philippe de Rothschild. It’s easy to question why it was not classified as a first
growth. Remember, the classification was based on sale price, not necessarily
the quality of the wine.
64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
“The secret of Mouton is the vineyard that has stayed the same since the
[English branch of the] Rothschild family bought it in 1853,” says Philippe
Dhalluin, the retiring managing director who will hand over the reins to
Emmanuel Danjoy, the technical director. “The Grand Plateau is precocious.
It gives tannins that are soft and fruit that is sweet.”
Like all the Médoc first growths, Mouton is about Cabernet Sauvignon. It DEEPIX/CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD
can be more than 90% of the blend.
“Along with our terroir, the Cabernet gives these intense but velvet tannins,
and the richness that you can see even two days after fermentation starts,”
says Danjoy. “It gives flavor, finesse and the perfumes that come from every
tank in the cellar at harvest time.”
It’s a supreme example of the blissful marriage of gravel and Cabernet
Sauvignon that produces an enduring wine.
 Château Latour
Power, Precision and Purity
Of the four first growths in the Médoc, Château Latour is the one that’s gone
furthest with organic and biodynamic methods. Owned by the Pinault family
of luxury products empire Kering (the group that manages Gucci, Alexander
McQueen, Saint-Laurent and more) since 1993, all of its 229 acres have been
certified organic for the last two years.
The heart and jewel of the vineyard is the 113 acres of the walled L’Enclos,
the source of Latour’s famed Grand Vin. That block is now biodynamic, one
of the largest areas of biodynamics in Bordeaux.
“We do notice greater intensity in the fruit, perhaps more energy in the
wine,” says Jean Garandeau, sales and marketing director at Latour, when
asked what effect biodynamics has on the vineyard. “We are certainly pleased
with the results in the health of the vineyard.”
The L’Enclos, at the southern limit of Pauillac, dates at least to the 17th
century. The vineyard’s proximity to the Gironde estuary, less than half a mile
BRICE BRAASTAD/CHÂTEAU LATOUR
away and very visible, is what makes it so vital to Latour’s wine. That creates
a microclimate where temperatures are two or three degrees warmer in the
winter than the rest of the vineyard.
Gravel and clay, drained since the 18th century, make “a perfect spot for
Cabernet Sauvignon,” says Garandeau. Today, Cabernet makes up at least
90% of the Grand Vin.
There are three elements to the style of Latour: the precise quality of the
tannins, the aromatic purity that comes from the transparency between
the land and wine, and the power in its length and complexity. It’s austere
sometimes at the beginning, but it deepens as it matures.
The style of Latour has always been conducive to aging. The combination
of the L’Enclos vineyard and biodynamics has further refined and defined this
essential character, a wine for the generations.
WINEMAG.COM | 65
Château Margaux
Finesse and Elegance
Continuity and attention to detail keep Château Margaux at the top of
its game.
The southernmost of the four Médoc first growths, it’s known for
its grand, classical chateau, an impressively distant vista at the end
of a long avenue of trees. When she’s in Bordeaux, this is the home of
Château Margaux owner Corinne Mentzelopoulos.
The chateau is at the heart of the 654-acre estate, which is made
up of woods and fields. Some 252 of those acres are under vine. The
vineyard, with records that date to the 16th century, is the same today
as it was then. Merlot vines start as the fields by the Gironde begin to
slope up.
Just to the north of the chateau is the walled vineyard at the heart
of the Grand Vin, planted to Cabernet Sauvignon. This, says Philippe
Bascaules, the director of Château Margaux since 2016, “gives the
perfect wine and makes at least 70% of the Grand Vin.”
Both in the vineyard and cellar, Bascaules describes an almost fanat-
ical attention to detail.
66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
“We have divided the original parcels into four, and each micro-
parcel has its own character,” he says.
That’s why there are now 95 tanks in the cellar, with 30 more in the
works. In the new cellar, designed by leading architect Norman Foster,
the rows of tanks seem to stretch far into the distance.
“We want to treat each micro-parcel individually,” he says. “We are
observing our vineyard over the long-term. We have the time.”
The wine that comes from this ancient vineyard has always been
known for its elegance. New approaches, which include organic prac- MATHIEU ANGLADA/CHÂTEAU MARGAUX
tices as much as possible, have resulted in greater definition of the wine.
“Everything is in balance,” says Bascaules. “It is not the intensity of
one or other element, but the combination that makes Château Margaux
and its perfume, the softness of the tannins that are at its heart.”
The increased use of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend has not
changed the primary character of Château Margaux. The tannins may
be a tad more intense, but then so are the perfume and the velvet, the
harmony and the gentle concentration.
 Château Haut-Brion
The Historical Exception
Of the five first growths, Château Haut-Brion is the outlier. It’s in the
first area of vines planted in the Bordeaux region. Its vineyard is an
oasis of green amid the suburban sprawl of universities, hospitals and
housing, rather than in open country close to the Gironde estuary. It has
more Merlot in the blend than other first growths.
It also has the longest history. Local records extend to the 16th century.
The wood-lined library that houses the chateau’s archives was created
by the current president of the estate, Prince Robert of Luxembourg,
grandson of American Clarence Dillon, who bought the chateau in 1935.
A coin of first-century Emperor Claudius found in the vineyard
suggests it could first have been planted by the Romans, who were viti-
culturally active in Bordeaux, says deputy managing director Jean-
Philippe Delmas, who has been at Haut-Brion since 2003.
“Haut-Brion has an ecosystem that stems from its history,” he says.
“We also have extraordinary continuity, with only five owners in the
last five centuries. I am the third generation of my family to manage the
estate on behalf of the Dillon family.”
OF CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION
PHOTO CREDIT
COURTESY
The ecosystem in question is the alchemy of the soil, the subsoil and
the climate. The company is studying the microbiology of the soil and
how it affects the different parcels.
“The magic of Haut-Brion is that we have this great terroir,
sanctified by time, so we hardly have to interfere during vinification,”
says Delmas.
The vineyard slopes gently southward, with gravel over large rocks.
The terroir is reflected in the wine, austere when young with a strong
line of tannins. Delmas describes the complexity of aromas when the
wine is still in the tank. He says they can always find the leather, coffee
and toastiness in the young wine.
In a row of first growths, it’s always easy to pick Haut-Brion out
of a blind tasting because of its high percentage of Merlot. The grape
represents 40% of the vineyard. Merlot gives the wine its richness and
generosity once it has begun to mature, which continues the line of
history that surrounds this ancient estate.
WINEMAG.COM | 67
68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
 of 2020
These are the best pours, from
whiskey to vodka and beyond.
BY KARA NEWMAN
PHOTO BY TOM ARENA

W
hen comforting pours were needed most, spirits producers continued
to turn out high-quality bottlings, and record numbers of consumers
tried their hand at mixing cocktails at home.
As always, this list represents the most compelling spirits we’ve
had the opportunity to review this year. It spans a broad range of cate-
gories and price points, from a $250 single-barrel Bourbon to an $8 extra-dry vermouth
ideal for elevating your Martini.
This best-of-the-best collection also incorporates some delightful surprises, such as a
Sherry-based vermouth almost too good to mix into cocktails; a quirky bartender-made
rum that straddles the line between spiced rum and gin; and an innovative applejack-
finished rye.
We could all use a little comfort this year, and whether you’re looking for yourself or as
a gift, this selection of spirits is sure to deliver some much-needed joy.

WINEMAG.COM | 69
 TOP 100 SPIRITS I 2020

BOURBON peel. It’s a good contemplative sipper, with a cube of

ice. Limited edition, 2,100 bottles produced. 91 Huber’s Single Barrel Bottled-in-Bond (USA;
Starlight Distillery, Borden, IN). The notably
abv: 65.5% Price: $250 dark hue of this Bourbon matches the deep tof-
96 Old Fitzgerald Bottled-in-Bond Spring
2019 Edition (USA; Heaven Hill Distillery,
fee aroma. Distinct coffee notes persist from start
Bardstown, KY). The third release in the series is
a 100-proof Bourbon. Toasty aromas suggest crois-
94 Wilderness Trail Small Batch Bourbon (USA;
PM Spirits, Brooklyn, NY). This high-rye
Bourbon opens with a mild caramel aroma and a
to notably long finish, with the middle filled in by
bold toffee, fudge, a red fruit hint and peppery spice.
Sherry barrel finished.
sant and dulce de leche. The palate opens spicy, with
hint of booziness on the nose. The palate echoes abv: 50% Price: $60
cayenne and cinnamon heat. Adding water unlocks
those notes, adding water tames the heat while
the confectionary promise of the aromas, unfurl-
ing rounded vanilla and coconut, finishing with the
right amount of assertive spice. Bottled in an ornate
maintaining the caramel, roasted nuts and hint of
butterscotch. All that winds into a drying baking-
spice finish laced with citrusy zing.
91 Oppidan Smoke & Sea (USA; Oppidan Spir-
its, Wheeling, IL). A ringer for Scotch, this
Bourbon is finished in peated Islay Scotch barrels
decanter, this is composed of liquid from barrels
abv: 50% Price: $56 to intriguing, earthy effect. The peaty aroma wows
produced in September 2005.
from first sniff, while the smoky, slightly saline pal-
abv: 50% Price: $130
93 Milam & Greene Triple Cask Bourbon (USA;
Milam & Greene Distillery, Austin, TX). As
ate winds into an espresso- and clove-tinged finish.
abv: 46% Price: $40
95 Four Roses Small Batch Select (USA; Four
Roses, Lawrenceburg, KY). Created by mas-
the “Triple Cask” name suggests, this newcomer is
a blend of three straight Bourbon whiskies: a two-
ter distiller Brent Elliott to mark the distillery’s
grand reopening, this Bourbon is the first perma-
year-old Texas Bourbon, a three- to four-year-old
Tennessee whiskey, and a 10- to 11-year-old Tennes-
COGNAC
nent addition to the portfolio since 2006. This is a
concentrated sip—even with plenty of water—show-
ing warm, toasty vanilla, sugar cookies and buttery
see whiskey. It offers complex orange peel and vanil-
la aromas and a silky palate that opens with vanilla
and evolves into a long maple sugar finish topped up
97 Gilles Brisson XO Cognac (France; David Bowl-
er Wine, New York, NY). An enjoyable mix of
fruit, cocoa and spice makes this ideal for sipping
brioche, finishing extra-long and drying, accented by
with a bit of spicy cinnamon glow. or dessert pairing. Dried fig and plum aromas are
plenty of baking spice. It’s a real lip-smacker.
abv: 47% Price: $43 echoed on the notably silky palate. It finishes long,
abv: 52% Price: $60
with rich cocoa accented by cayenne and clove notes.

95 Maker’s Mark Wood Finishing Series 2019

Limited Release RC6 (USA; Maker’s Mark
93 New Southern Revival Straight Bourbon
Whiskey 100% Jimmy Red Corn (USA; High
Wire Distilling, Charleston, SC). Made from 100%
Aged 18-22 years.
abv: 40% Price: $105
Distillery, Loretto, KY). A newcomer from stalwart
Maker’s Mark, this limited release is finished with
virgin oak staves for nine weeks. The end result is a
Jimmy Red corn—a previously endangered heir-
loom variety—and bottled at cask strength. The first
sips are beerlike, with a hoppy hint. Adding water
96 Park XO Cognac (France; Back Bar Project, Se-
attle, WA). Look for a deep amber hue and
bold, sweet aromas suggesting dried fig and baked
rich and delicious toffee aroma and a spiced, strong
smooths it a bit, revealing dried fig, oloroso Sherry, pear. The palate is equally bold, folding cassis, dried
palate. Adding water brings more caramel forward,
and hints of dark chocolate and spice. The overall cherry, and port notes into dusty cocoa and walnut.
while each sip still finishes with piquant cayenne-
effect is dark and intriguing. It finishes long with a hint of clove. Aged a minimum
edged baking spice and a hint of Sherry.
abv: 54% Price: $97 of 20 years.
abv: 54.1% Price: $60
abv: 40% Price: $170

94 Bardstown Bourbon Company Discovery Se-

ries #1 (USA; Bardstown Bourbon Company,
93 Penelope Bourbon Barrel Strength (USA;
Penelope Bourbon, Frankfort, KY). Distilled
in Indiana, bottled in Kentucky and named for the 95 Merlet Selection Saint-Sauvant Assem-
blage No 1 Cognac (France; Bedford & Grove,
Bardstown, KY). A masterful blend, an 11-year-old
founder’s daughter, this offers a bold, concentrated Louisville, KY). The aromas are relatively demure:
Kentucky Bourbon makes up the base, accented with
caramel tone that mingles with a hint of plum skin. dried apricot, grilled pineapple, a whiff of coconut.
older 13-year-old and younger 10-year-old and five-
A pleasant prickle of sweet spices—cinnamon, car- Yet, this is a powerhouse of a Cognac, opening big
year-old Bourbons. Showing maple-drizzled pecan
damom, clove, cayenne—lingers on the finish. Aged with robust stone fruit, rounding into rich, dripping
pie and cinnamon spice, the long finish is refreshed
a minimum of 24 months. honey, it seems to expand with every sip under an
by a lemony bite. Launched June 2019.
abv: 58.3% Price: $55 umbrella of cinnamon, clove and nutmeg.
abv: 60.6% Price: $130
abv: 45.2% Price: $100

94 Hotel Tango Kentucky Straight Bourbon

(USA; Hotel Tango, Indianapolis, IN). An
92 Angel’s Envy Cask Strength Bourbon Finished
in Port Wine Barrels (USA; Angel’s Envy, Lou-
isville, KY). Concentrated caramel and maple aromas 94 Chateau Montifaud XO Cognac (France;
Baron Francois, New York, NY). Dried figs
easy-drinking, versatile crowd-pleaser right for a
are enriched with more than a hint of red fruit. The and dates lead the nose. The bold palate opens with
wide range of cocktails. The bright, fresh aroma bal-
palate is quite fiery—as would be expected from a cask- vanilla and oak, finishing elegant and complex, with
ances oak and vanilla. The palate is smooth and light
strength bottling—showing lots of mouthwatering red stone fruit, barely-there hints of vanilla and cocoa,
from first sip, with plenty of concentrated vanilla
fruit from the outset, plus spicy fireworks. Adding wa- and a long, dusty cinnamon fade. A blend of bran-
bean. Adding water coaxes a bit more spice into the
ter gives plush texture and allows a chocolate hint to dies aged at least 30 years.
finish, along with a fleeting butterscotch note. Aged
come forward, while dialing back fruit and spice. abv: 40% Price: $150
two years. Best Buy.
abv: 61.2% Price: $200
abv: 45% Price: $35

92 Legent Bourbon (USA; Beam Suntory, Deer- 93 Frérot Extra Cognac (France; Wooler Brands,
Ventura, CA). This honey-hued Cognac offers

94 King of Kentucky 2019 Release (USA; Brown-

Forman Beverages, Louisville, KY). The sec-
ond edition of Kings of Kentucky is a 15 year-old
field, IL). A collaboration between Kentucky
Bourbon-distiller Fred Noe and chief blender Shinji
apricot and peach nectar aromas, the initial alcohol
on the nose dissipates after some time in the glass.
Fukoyo of Japan’s Suntory, this Bourbon is partially The complex palate opens lightly with maple and
single barrel Bourbon. An assertive oak note in the
finished in wine and Sherry casks. The result is a honey, followed by baked pear and stewed peach
aroma mixes with toffee; the overall effect is warm
caramel-rich nose and palate that reads almost like midpalate, and finishes gently with a flurry of baking
and enticing. The velvety, weighty palate explodes
dulce de leche with a pleasantly silky texture. There’s spice and orange peel. This is an hors d’age Cognac,
with a progression of coffee, toffee, cocoa and clove,
a hint of dried fruit and spice on the exit. Best Buy. with a blend of brandies aged between 30-50 years.
finishing long and drying, with a final curl of orange
abv: 47% Price: $36 abv: 41% Price: $200

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020


92 Branson XO Cognac (France; Sire Spirits, Katy,
TX). Delicate vanilla and apricot perfume
this Cognac. The palate is more forward, showing
mouthwatering butterscotch, golden raisin and ma-
ple, finishing with baking spice warmth.
abv: 40% Price: $250
92 Distillerie du Peyrat XO Classic Cognac
(France; Heavenly Spirits, New York, NY).
Golden in the glass, the dried apricot aroma includes
a smoky tinge. The palate echoes the dried apricot
note, layering it with vanilla, cinnamon and clove. It
finishes rounded and mouthwatering.
abv: 40% Price; $92
91 Delamain Pale & Dry Cognac (France; Kobrand,
Purchase, NY). Look for a burnished gold hue
and mild aroma. The palate is light and soft, with
delicate hints of cedar, almond and golden raisin
yielding to a briskly spiced finish accented with
lemon and grapefruit peel.
abv: 40% Price: $120
91 Frapin Chateau Fontpinot XO Cognac (France;
Pacific Edge Imports, Agoura Hills, CA). This
burnished gold Cognac offers aromas of red fruit
and baked pear, plus a floral hint. The piquant pal-
ate opens with cayenne, cinnamon candy and black
pepper, followed by concentrated vanilla. It finishes
on a juicy baked apple tone.
abv: 41% Price: $140
GIN
95 Bixby Dry Gin (USA; Lloyd Distillery, Gonzales,
CA). The slightly sweet aroma offers a hint
of spearmint. Grapefruit peel astringency leads into
an herbaceous midpalate, finishing brisk and minty
alongside a hit of ginger heat. This hits all the right
notes for a top-flight Martini. It’s a small-batch gin
made with citrus, elderflower and California bay leaf.
abv: 46% Price: $39
94 Highside Distilling Gin (USA; Highside Distill-
ing, Bainbridge Island, WA). Distilled from
Washington apples, this robust gin is malty on nose
and palate. Lemony acidity leads into a savory, lip-
smacking finish tinged with cucumber, black pepper,
grains of paradise and cayenne sparks.
abv: 44% Price: $38
93 Occitan London Dry Gin (Italy; Oliver McCrum
Wines, Berkeley, CA). The aroma is mild, al-
most neutral. The palate opens with cucumber and
a hint of tarragon freshness, while the crisp, smooth
finish brings in juniper, grapefruit pith, and a hint
of white pepper. Ideal for Gin & Tonics, Collins and
other cocktails.
abv: 42% Price: $43/1 L
92 100 Mill St Gin (USA; 100 Mill St., Minneapo-
lis, MN). Made from a base of maple sap, this
newcomer offers a malty aroma freshened with a
whiff of eucalyptus. The palate is pleasingly sweet-
savory, tinged with pink peppercorn, rosewater and
a fleeting raspberry note, finishing with assertive co-
riander spice. Small batch; only 3,000 bottles made
each year.
abv: 42% Price: $50
92 Malfy Gin Con Limone (Italy; Pernod Ricard,
New York, NY). Clear in the glass, this fla-
vored gin, made with Italian lemons, offers gentle
lemon and grapefruit peel aromas. The bracing,
lightly sweet palate has a nicely authentic lemon
flavor, with hints of peel and pith, finishing appro-
priately bitter. Skip the lemon twist, and mix into
Martinis and other drinks.
abv: 41% Price: $28
92 Mulholland Gin (USA; Mulholland Distilling,
Downey, CA). A waft of cucumber leads the
nose, echoed on the silky palate from start to fin-
ish, accented by brisk white pepper and lime peel.
Distilled from corn.
abv: 48% Price: $27
92 Nordes Atlantic Galician Gin (Spain; Ole & Ob-
rigado, New Rochelle, NY). With time in the
glass, this gin becomes particularly aromatic, mixing
citrus and floral notes. The palate leads with her-
baceous sage and bay leaf, leading into a floral ex-
hale—hibiscus is one of the botanicals—tinged with
grapefruit peel and lemon verbena.
abv: 40% Price: $35
91 Highclere Castle London Dry Gin (England;
Highclere Castle Spirits, Centerbrook, CT). For
fans of Downton Abbey, this gin hails from the own-
ers of Highclere Castle, where the series was filmed,
and made with botanicals inspired by those grown
in the Castle’s herb garden. Look for a citrusy aroma
and demure hints of pink peppercorn, mint and lav-
ender, plus a mouthwatering salinity. A floral note
emerges on the mentholated exit.
abv: 43.5% Price: $40
91 Manatawny Still Works Zimbro (USA; Mana-
tawny Still Works, Pottstown, PA). This un-
usual gin finished in used port casks has a tawny
hue and distinct coconut aroma. The palate echoes
that coconut note, layered in almond and spice, a
hint of cedar, and a pleasant, sweet vanilla fade. It
drinks like a cross between whiskey and gin. Part of
a small batch series, this limited edition is currently
sold out but is expected to return to production in
winter 2020.
abv: 47% Price: $40
91 Prairie Organic Gin (USA; Ed Phillips & Sons,
Princeton, MN). Light and herbaceous, this is
a veritable herb garden of a gin. Hints of fresh rose-
mary entice nose and palate, while delicate tarragon,
mint, sage and eucalyptus add complexity, finishing
with grapefruit peel astringency. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $20
90 Empress 1908 Gin (Canada; Azzure Spirits,
Las Vegas, NV). This gin is vivid indigo-blue,
thanks to an infusion of butterfly pea blossoms, and
transforms to an attractive pink hue as tonic or cit-
rus are added. The aroma is relatively neutral and
the palate is mild and malty, with hints of coriander,
orris root and white pepper. But it’s really all about
the eye-popping blue color and all the party tricks
that can be performed with this gin.
abv: 42.5% Price: $40
90 Freeland Spirits Gin (USA; Freeland Spirits,
Portland, OR). Look for a mild cucumber
aroma and robust palate that showcases anise and
lemon tartness, echoing a hint of cucumber and
clove heat on the exhale. With repeated sips, the
anise note seems to expand and blossom, and adds
a minty finish.
abv: 45% Price: $35
WINEMAG.COM | 71
 TOP 100 SPIRITS I 2020
LIQUEUR
96 Coole Swan Irish Cream Liqueur (Ireland;
MHW, Manhasset, NY). A milky appearance
and bold white chocolate aroma mark this luxe sip-
per. The light, frothy palate layers vanilla butter-
cream, cocoa butter and white chocolate, exiting
with a pleasing minty exhale and a warming alcohol
kick. Made with Belgian white chocolate and single
malt Irish whiskey.
abv: 16% Price: $32
95 Hard Truth Toasted Coconut Rum Cream
(USA; Hard Truth Distilling, Nashville, IN).
Lingering softly on the palate like cream of coco-
nut, this milky-hued liqueur opens with vanilla and
toasted coconut tones. There is a surprising salti-
ness on the finish that suggests Maldon salt flakes
on top of a vanilla wafer, unusual in a cream liqueur,
it begs for a second sip. Mix into tropical cocktails.
abv: 15% Price: $30
94 Abadía da Cova Galician Cream Liqueur
(Spain; Seaman’s Beverage & Logistics, Clif-
ton, NJ). An easy-drinking crowd-pleaser, this li-
queur has a milky coffee appearance. It’s smooth and
not too heavy, with a subtle, refreshing minty note
on nose and palate. The base spirit is orujo, distilled
from the skins and other solids left over from wine
production, macerated with milk.
abv: 15% Price: $44
94 Ambrosia Aperitivo (USA; Don Ciccio & Figli,
Washington, DC). The bittersweet, grape-
fruit-y flavor of this rosy-red craft liqueur lands
somewhere between Campari and Aperol. It pours
fairly viscous, and plays well with ice, bubbly mix-
ers, or gin; ideal for Negroni fans. Launched in 2019.
abv: 15% Price: $31
94 Atxa Pacharáan Sierra de Orduña (Spain; T.
Edward Wines & Spirits, New York, NY). With
its bright rosy hue and dried cherry fragrance, few
would guess this liqueur is made with three differ-
ent types of anise, blended with a maceration of sloe
berries. This classic Basque spirit is light-bodied
and tart, suggesting dried cranberry and cherry, fin-
ishing with barely there hints of anise and eucalyp-
tus. Sip or mix.
abv: 25% Price: $40
94 RumChata Limón (USA; Agave Loco Brands,
Vernon Hills, IL). Cooling and refreshing, this
liqueur has a pale, buttery yellow tinge and pleasing
72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
aroma of lemon cream pie. The light, almost frothy
palate suggests lemon curd and vanilla wafer, finish-
ing with bright lemon peel and a fresh herb exhale.
It’s a Caribbean rum base. Sip or mix into citrusy
cocktails.
abv: 14% Price: $22
93 Barrow’s Intense Ginger Liqueur (USA; Proof
of Concept, Brooklyn, NY). Look for a cloudy
pale lemon hue, with a sweet ginger aroma and a
hint of lemon peel. The viscous palate opens sweet
and finishes long and warming, with plenty of gin-
gery zing, a mouthwatering citric quality and flurry
of white pepper sparks.
abv: 22% Price: $32
93 Meletti Anisetta Dry (Italy; Opici Wines, Glen
Rock, NJ). Recommended by the producer
for cocktails, this higher-octane, lower sugar an-
isette offers a bright orange peel aroma and fruity-
spiced palate that finishes with brisk cayenne and
cinnamon, fading off into an earthy aniseed hint.
Best Buy.
abv: 42% Price: $25
93 Sōmrus Coffee Cream Liqueur (USA; SomPri-
ya Fine Spirits, Pewaukee, WI). This addictive
sipper is a blend of coffee and chicory with a base of
Caribbean rum. A gentle coffee aroma leads the nose,
while the light, silky palate shows plenty of vanilla
and cocoa powder, exiting with a mild coffee exhale.
Sip alongside or in place of dessert.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25
92 Misceo Coffee Liqueur (USA; Allied Wine, El-
lenville, NY). This vodka-based liqueur looks,
smells and tastes much like sweetened espresso. The
bold palate is not too overbearing on the coffee notes,
allowing pleasing caramel to emerge along with a re-
freshing mentholated exhale. Would be dynamite in
Espresso Martinis. Kosher.
abv: 35% Price: $35
92 Mr Stacks Toasted Coconut Cream Liqueur
(USA; Saranty Import, Stamford, CT). Ex-
pect a creamy hue and pleasing coconut meat aroma.
Concentrated coconut flavor carries through on each
sip, ending lightly on nutmeg and cinnamon. Overall,
a dessert-worthy pour.
abv: 15% Price: $10
91 Amarula Vanilla Spice Cream Liqueur (South
Africa; Terlato Artisan Spirits, Lake Bluff, IL).
Pours out with a light, latte-like hue and nutty,
faintly spiced aroma. The light, smooth palate opens
with a burst of cardamom underpinned by a mild
fruitiness that resembles dried dates. The long fin-
ish is tinged with vanilla, caramel and sweet spices.
abv: 15.5% Price: $24
91 Last Shot Chocolate Crème Brulee Liqueur
(USA; Last Shot Distillery, Skaneateles, NY).
Distiller and owner Chris Uyehara is a former pas-
try chef and chocolatier; his 35-year career inspired
this lip-smacking liqueur. Made with a Bourbon
base, the delectable aroma is pure caramel, while
the smooth palate is more nuanced, leading with
vanilla and cocoa and exiting with a distinct almond
paste note.
abv: 15% Price: $30
RUM
96 Admiral Rodney HMS Formidable (St. Lucia;
Spiribam, Miami, FL). Made with rums aged
from nine-12 years, this rich, full-bodied spirit of-
fers brown sugar, caramel and spice aromas. The soft
palate balances vanilla sugar and custardy flan with
lively citrus, perfect for a dessert pairing.
abv: 40% Price: $130
95 Plantation Isle of Fiji Rum (Fiji; W.J. Deutsch
& Sons, Stamford, CT). The aroma suggests
banana bread drizzled with honey and just a whiff
of pineapple. The palate magnifies that tropical note,
exploding with juicy grilled pineapple and landing
lightly with vanilla, coconut and cinnamon tones.
Mix into pineapple Daiquiris and Piña Coladas. Dis-
tilled and aged two to three years in Fiji, then anoth-
er year in the cooler climate of France in ex-Ferrand
Cognac casks. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $25
94 Dos Maderas Selección Superior Reserve Rum
(Spain; Palm Bay International, Port Wash-
ington, NY). Expect a dark brown hue and rich toffee
and espresso aromas. This rich, velvety sipper offers
plenty of mocha and fudge, finishing with dusty co-
coa and a hint of dried fig that belies PX Sherry is
part of the mix. This bottling starts with rums from
Barbados and Guyana aged in the Caribbean for 10
years, then transported to Spain for blending with
casks of a five-year-old rum that has been finished
in PX Sherry casks.
abv: 42% Price: $60
94 Rhum Barbancourt Estate Reserve Aged 15
Years (Haiti; Crillon Importers, Paramus, NJ).
Maple, coconut and honey sweetness, even a hint of
cookie dough entice nose and palate, finishing gently
with warming baking spice and candied orange peel.
Made from fresh sugarcane juice.
abv: 43% Price: $55
93 Appleton Estate 8 Year Old Reserve (Jamai-
ca; Campari America, New York, NY). This re-
serve bottling, released in spring 2020, is intended
to commemorate the 250th anniversary of the brand.
Complex and smooth, look for an amber hue and
mildly funky aroma that mingles banana funk, va-
nilla and a hint of red fruit. The palate amplifies that
fruit, opening with dried cherry, caramelized pine-
apple and vanilla, drifting into a drying finish laced
with nutmeg, clove and coconut. Best Buy.
abv: 43% Price: $29
93 Hidden Harbor White Rum (USA; Allegheny
Distilling, Pittsburgh, PA). Made for Pitts-
burgh tiki bar Hidden Harbor, this rum is specially
formulated for use in Daiquiris and other tropical
cocktails. Most of what’s in the bottle (80%) is
made by Pittsburgh distillery Maggie’s Farm, and the
remaining 20% is a blend of Caribbean rums. It’s a
full-flavored, robust white rum, with a mildly funky
aroma and a surprising hint of red fruit jazzed up
with ginger and white pepper on the finish. Should
stand up nicely to fruit and bold flavors.
abv: 50% Price: $35
93 The Rum Cooperative Volume 2 (Caribbean;
Bully Boy Distillers, Boston, MA). This de-
lightful tawny sipper opens with aromas of dried
apricot, golden raisin, maple syrup and candied gin-
ger, finishing long, spiced and a little sticky. It al-
most sips like a spiced rum but it’s not—just a blend
of rums from five different rum-making regions,
namely Martinique, Panama, Mexico, Puerto Rico
and Colombia, with an age range spanning eight–12
years and representing various raw materials and
distillation methods.
abv: 42% Price: $35
91 Saison Rum (France; Romina Foods, Inc., San
Mateo, CA). This light and silky sipper from
Cognac-maker Jerome Tessendier has a mild vanilla
fragrance and a pleasing brown sugar and vanilla
bean profile. The elongated finish is laced with cin-
namon and nutmeg. Made with a blend of rums from
Barbados, Trinidad and Jamaica aged up to five years
in American white oak, the blended rum is then fin-
ished in Limousin casks in France’s Cognac region.
Best Buy.
abv: 42% Price: $28
91 Thrasher’s Green Spiced Rum (USA; Potomac
Distilling, Washington, DC). Think of this un-
usual newcomer as a mix between spiced rum and
gin, with the usual spice additions mostly replaced
by citrusy and herbaceous flavors. Veteran bartender
Todd Thrasher uses botanicals grown in his own
backyard, including lemon verbena, lemongrass and
mint. The aroma is malty and brisk, with a hint of
dill, while the palate is slightly sweet, with a mouth-
watering citrusy tartness and a hint of coconut that
winds into the complex finish laced with ginger and
cardamom. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $27
RYE
96 A Midsummer Nights Dram Act 7 Scene 6
(USA; High West Distillery, Park City, UT).
This polished annual release is always a pleasure,
and the seventh release in the series is no different.
Concentrated caramel tinged with oak and red fruit
entice the nose and palate. Adding water eases the
alcohol bite, and brings more lush fruit and spice
forward. A blend of straight rye whiskies finished in
French oak port barrels, bottled by High West.
abv: 49.3% Price: $100
95 Ragtime Applejack Barrel Finished Rye (USA;
New York Distilling Company, Brooklyn, NY).
This unusual limited edition starts with two-year-
old rye, then aged for 90 days in barrels that previ-
ously held applejack made by Black Dirt Distillery.
The end result is delightful and surprisingly delicate,
offering fleeting hints of butterscotch and baked ap-
ple, finishing long with nutmeg, cinnamon sprinkle
and lemon zest. Sip or mix.
abv: 50% Price: $45
94 Catoctin Creek Roundstone Rye Whiskey
Distillers Edition (USA; Catoctin Creek Distill-
ing, Purcellville, VA). This single-barrel rye is suit-
able for sipping or a dessert pairing. Look for bold
sugar-cookie aromas and confectionary richness
on the palate: vanilla, cocoa, hazelnut, maple sugar
and mocha. The moderately long finish is marked by
lemon peel and nutmeg.
abv: 46% Price: $51
93 Old Henry Clay Whiskey Straight Rye Whis-
key (USA; James Pepper Distilling, Lexington,
KY). Distilled in Indiana and aged about 2 years,
look for a honey hue and oaky aroma. The palate
opens big and bold, with lots of vanilla sweetness.
Adding water is a game-changer: It intensifies into
butterscotch and vanilla, with a weightier, buttery
texture and cinnamon spiced finish. Big and deli-
cious. Best Buy.
abv: 43% Price: $20
93 Peerless Rye Whiskey (USA; Kentucky Peer-
less Distilling, Louisville, KY). This four-year-
old, barrel-proof rye is a beast, but it can be tamed
with a bit of water. The intense caramel aroma sig-
nals what is to come. With enough water, this big,
flavorful, downright chewy whiskey offers dense and
delicious maple sugar, creamy caramel, red fruit and
candied ginger heat.
abv: 54.6% Price: $90
93 Rod & Hammer’s Distiller’s Reserve Rye Whis-
key (USA; Rod & Hammer, San Luis Obispo,
CA). Aromas of vanilla, caramel, oak and orange peel
fill the glass. The palate is silky, with just a hint of
maple sweetness. Adding water brings a cocoa note
forward. The drying, grippy finish rounds out with
clove and a hint of cayenne heat. Aged 12 months
and “cut with the Pacific,” a k a purified ocean water.
abv: 40% Price: $59
93 Whistlepig Farmstock Rye Crop 003 (USA;
GoAmericaGo Beverages, Shoreham, VT).
This rye is complex and palate-coating, especially
with a dose of water added. Each sip opens with
honey, coconut and white chocolate, and finishes
long with delicate candied ginger, lemony acidity
and white pepper. Made with 100% rye, this is the
third version of Farmstock, with the goal of eventu-
ally moving toward a fully estate-sourced whiskey.
For now, about half the liquid in the bottle comes
from a three-year-old Vermont rye, supplemented
with six-year-old Canadian rye and a small amount
of 10-year-old Canadian rye.
abv: 43% Price: $73
92 Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Straight Rye Whiskey
(USA; Jack Daniel Distillery, Lynchburg, TN).
Made with 70% rye, a moderately high amount, this
whiskey is brisk and spiced, with plenty of flavor. It
also has plenty of alcohol punch on nose and palate,
so plan to mix into cocktails or add water to taste,
which softens the impact and coaxes out vanilla,
lemon peel and allspice notes on the drying finish.
Best Buy.
abv: 45% Price: $27
92 Kindred Straight Rye Whiskey Single Barrel
(USA; Kozuba & Sons Distillery, St. Peters-
burg, FL). This wheated rye offers baked apple and
brown sugar aromas. The palate is lively and light.
Hints of honey and butterscotch are perked up by
clove and cinnamon punch. Best Buy.
abv: 45% Price: $39
WINEMAG.COM | 73
 TOP 100 SPIRITS I 2020

92 Old Forester Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey

(USA; Old Forester Distilling, Louisville, KY).
Look for a bright topaz hue and concentrated sweet
vanilla bean and caramel aromas. The palate skews
toward darker flavors: toffee, mocha, espresso and
clove, with a drying finish. Adding water brings out
a dark chocolate hint. Best Buy.
abv: 50% Price: $25
approach to peat. Look for a wispy peated aroma and
mild, pleasant smokiness on the palate mixed with
almond sweetness. The spiced midpalate segues into
a smoky waft. Sip or mix. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $26
TEQUILA
over into the smooth, elegant finish, exiting with a
sprinkle of sweet cinnamon.
abv: 40% Price: $75
92 Vida de Louie Blanco Tequila (Mexico; LDDV
Inc., Jacksonville, FL). This is a delicate,
slightly floral blanco with hints of lime blossom,
lime peel and granite leading into a fleeting violet
note on the brisk, peppery exhale. The bottle topper

92 Rebellion Rye Whiskey (USA; Meier’s Distilled

Products, Silverton, OH). Pleasing, integrat-
ed vanilla and oak entice the nose. The palate is light
and nicely spiced, opening with almond and cit-
rus. Adding water lightens and brightens, exposing
grapefruit peel, ginger and cinnamon sparks. Overall,
a lean and likeable rye that’s ready to mix.
abv: 43% Price: $41
96 Maestro Dobel Silver Tequila (Mexico; Proxi-
mo Spirits, Jersey City, NJ). The sweet aroma
hints at tropical fruit and white chocolate, under-
is a hard to miss round wooden piece with skull and
crossbones in the middle.
abv: 40% Price: $35
pinned by jalapeño. The buttery palate delivers on
the promise of fruit, showing melon, lychee, and
grapefruit peel that wind into a delicate white-pep- 91 Cincoro Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Park Street
Imports, Miami, FL). The mild aroma of this
Tequila shows just a hint of coconut. The palate
per finish.
abv: 40% Price: $44 opens with robust honey and jalapeño tones, set-
tling into coconut sweetness on the exit, and braced

SCOTCH 95 Los Rijos Silver Tequila (Mexico; Distiller

Sales, Princeton, MN). This Tequila is brisk
and slightly vegetal, with tones of bell pepper and
up with a drying burst of clove. It’s all packaged in a
dramatic, extra-tall sculptural bottle.
abv: 40% Price: $70

96 Compass Box Great King Street Artist’s Blend

Scotch (Scotland; MHW Ltd., Manhasset,
NY). Part of the Great King Street series, this is a
sweetie of a blended Scotch. The first feather-light
sips open with vanilla custard, orchard fruit and
coconut cream, rounding into enticing red fruit on
the finish. A splash of water unlocks more red fruit,
along with tinges of butterscotch, oak and spice.
Best Buy.
abv: 43% Price: $37
94 Murray McDavid Òrdha Meas 13 Year Old
Scotch (Scotland; Glass Revolution, Las Ve-
gas, NV). Òrdha meas means golden fruit in Gaelic.
Look for a burnished gold hue and mellow aromas
that suggest baked apple drizzled with caramel. The
velvety palate opens on a toffee note coupled with
fiery clove, cinnamon and black pepper, while salted
caramel flows into the finish. This limited edition
bottling is made using a blend of whiskies from all
five Scotch-making regions.
abv: 46% Price: $50
93 Duncan Taylor Politician Blended Scotch
(Scotland; Shand Import, Duarte, CA). So
named because it was originally an exclusive for The
Politician bar on Scotland’s remote Eriskay island,
this golden whisky has a mild, slightly floral aroma.
Hints of almond butter, pear and white flowers lead
into a warming toasted coconut finish laced with
plenty of tingly white pepper. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $20
tarragon layered with almond. The generously
spiced finish shows clove, cinnamon and a hint of
cardamom. It’s a complex blanco to sip or mix.
abv: 40% Price: $32
94 Fortaleza Still Strength Blanco Tequila
(Mexico; Winebow, New York, NY). The sa-
vory, spicy aroma hints at fresh tomato. The drying,
astringent palate opens with a savory, herbal blast,
rounding into sun-dried tomato earthiness, mouth-
watering lemon peel and bright lemon-pepper on
the long finish. The producer chose to go with the
extra-proof “still strength” because “this is how Te-
quila was enjoyed over 125 years ago by my Great
Great Grandfather.” The bottle, topped with a hand-
painted agave piña, was hand-blown by bottle arti-
sans in Mexico.
abv: 46% Price: $55
93 Corazón Expresiones Blanco Artisanal Edi-
tion Tequila (Mexico; Sazerac, Metairie, LA).
This blanco Tequila was briefly aged in ex-American
whiskey barrels from the Sazerac portfolio, specifi-
cally those from George T. Stagg, Old Rip Van Winkle,
Buffalo Trace and Sazerac Rye. The end result is a
mild almond aroma and tantalizing notes of brown
sugar, brown butter and nutmeg on the palate, with
a plushness that’s unusual for a blanco. Overall, this
drinks like a whiskey, save for the jalapeño zippiness
on the finish. Interesting and complex.
abv: 40% Price: $60
91 Villa One Silver Tequila (Mexico; Stoli Group,
New York, NY). With mellow tinges of coco-
nut on nose and palate, this Tequila is generally mild,
with hints of almond and charcoal, finishing light
and clean, with a bit of spicy clove heat. Backed by
celebs Nick Jonas and John Varvatos.
abv: 40% Price: $45
VERMOUTH
96 González Byass Vermouth La Copa Extra Seco
(Spain; González Byass, Chicago, IL). Made
with fino Sherry, this pale-straw vermouth greets
with a mild, slightly herbaceous aroma. The palate
shows golden raisin and ripe pear tinged with basil
and sweet cinnamon, with mouthwatering salinity
on the finish. It’s delightful to sip straight—espe-
cially when chilled—or mix into killer Martinis.
abv: 17% Price: $25
95 Mommenpop Vin D’Pampe Pamplemousse
Vermouth (USA; Mommenpop, Napa, CA).
This highly quaffable vermouth blends Pinot Noir
rosé and grapefruit fortified with American brandy
(also made with Pinot Noir). Look for a peachy hue
and flavors that suggest both grapefruit-peel bitter-
ness and grapefruit-flesh juiciness. It’s a joy to drink,
including in a Martini.
abv: 17% Price: $22/357 ml

92 4 Copas Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Preiss

92 Monkey Shoulder Scotch (Scotland; William
Grant & Sons, New York, NY). This blended
Scotch opens with a bright, fresh-cut apple aroma.
On the palate, butterscotch richness gives way to
mild hints of smoke and juicy citrus. This versatile
pour could be enjoyed on its own or recommended
for mixing. Best Buy.
abv: 43% Price: $33
Imports, Ramona, CA). Complex, enticing
tropical fruit aromas entice. A fleeting, mouthwa-
tering saline note up front carries over into a burst
of salted fruit: guava, lychee, prickly pear lead into
a waxy rosewater exhale laced with grapefruit peel
and cardamom.
abv: 40% Price: $43
93 C. Comoz Vermouth de Chambery Blanc
(France; Haus Alpenz, Easthampton, MA).
This golden-hued vermouth offers peach nectar and
ripe pear aromas. The palate is sweet and honeyed,
showing stone fruit and vanilla, finishing moder-
ately long and mildly sweet. Pleasing to sip or mix.
abv: 16% Price: $17
92 Cinzano Vermouth Extra Dry (Italy; Cam-
pari America, New York, NY). Look for a mild,

90 Islay Mist 8-Year Scotch (Scotland; M.S.

Walker, Boston, MA). Made at Laphroaig, the
Islay distillery famed turning out uber-peaty single
malts, this blended Scotch offers a more moderate
92 Casa Dragones Blanco Tequila (Mexico: Casa
Dragones, Manhasset, NY). Mild, sweet
mango and coconut aromas lead into a mouthwa-
earthy aroma with hints of fresh melon and pear.
The palate is brisk, crisp and fresh, opening with
teringly tart, fruity palate. Vanilla and coconut take

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 9 CONSECUTIVE

90SCORES
+
2009 – 2017 NAPA VALLEY
CABERNET SAUVIGNON

WINE ENTHUSIAST
& JAMES SUCKLING

6 CONSECUTIVE

92
SCORES
2010 – 2015 NAPA VALLEY
+
TRANSCENDENT

WINE ENTHUSIAST
& WINE ADVOCATE

THE U NWAVER IN G P UR S UI T O F unforgettable WINE S

blackstallionwinery.com
©2020 BLACK STALLION ESTATE WINERY, NAPA, CA
 TOP 100 SPIRITS I 2020
lemon and a twist of bittersweet grapefruit peel, fin-
ishing with a green melon exhale. Best Buy.
abv: 18% Price: $8
92 Ransom Sweet Vermouth (USA; Ransom
Spirits, Sheridan, OR). The bold, rich aroma
is redolent with cocoa, cinnamon, fig jam and straw-
berry compote. The palate echoes the nose, layer-
ing on dried date, walnut and strawberry-rhubarb,
winding into a gentle, lingering waft of cocoa and
spice.
abv: 17.8% Price: $18/375 ml
91 Guerin Vermouth Blanc (France; Heavenly
Spirits LLC, Lakeville, MA). Sweet, sticky and
fruity, this rose-gold vermouth leads with straw-
berry jam on the nose and palate, but finishes with
a tartness closer to cranberry. Made with a base of
Pineau de Charentes and finished in Cognac casks.
Best well-chilled.
abv: 17% Price: $22
91 Vermut Lustau Rosé (Spain; Europvin USA, Van
Nuys, CA). A juicy, easy-drinking newcomer
made with a fino Sherry base blended with Mosca-
tel wine and Tintilla de Rota, a fruity red wine from
the Jerez region. The end result is a vermouth with
a pretty dusty-rose hue and grapefruit-tinged aroma.
The palate is quite sweet and juicy, finishing with
soothing vanilla. Serve over ice or mixed with tonic
water.
abv: 15% Price: $20
90 Massican Sweet Red Vermouth (USA; Massi-
can Winery, St Helena, CA). This garnet-hued
Napa Valley vermouth is lean and drinks almost like
a dry red wine. Fleeting blackberry and cherry give
way to grapefruit peel astringency and plum skin
bitterness, leading into coriander and black pepper
on the finish. 2018 vintage.
abv: 16% Price: $22
76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
VODKA on nose and palate. It’s not the absolute neutrality
some seek in vodka, but it’s still pleasant, light and
soft with tinges of coconut and cinnamon heat into
the finish.
abv: 40% Price: $30
91 Tom of Finland Vodka (Finland; Wolf Spirit, Eu-
gene, OR). Named for Touko Laaksonen, the
Finnish artist and gay icon better known as Tom
of Finland. Made from organic wheat and rye, this
versatile vodka has a mild, slightly citrusy scent and
a smooth, vanilla-tinged palate that finishes brisk,
with peppy hints of lemon peel and white pepper.
abv: 40% Price: $35
90 Hanson of Sonoma Organic Vodka (USA;
Hanson of Sonoma Distillery, Sonoma CA).
A small-batch wine country vodka distilled from
93 D. George Benham’s Vodka (USA; Graton
Distilling, Petaluma, CA). Made from grapes
and a blend of grains (wheat, rye, corn), this smooth
organic grapes. The faintly fruity aroma channels
bubble gum or lychee. Those notes echo on the pal-
ate, layered with hints of rosewater, cinnamon and
vodka is neutral on nose and palate, with whispers white pepper heat. Sip or mix.
of grapefruit, almond and charcoal. It slides into a
clove-accented finish.
abv: 40% Price: $30
abv: 40% Price: $27
93 Hangar 1 Fog Point Vodka (USA; Hangar 1,
Alameda, CA). This limited-edition vodka
is “inspired by the Bay Area fog,” the producer says.
The base is distilled from a Chenin Blanc and Viog-
nier blend from California’s Pine Ridge Vineyards,
then cut with water sourced from Hangar 1’s “fog
catchers.” The finished vodka is remarkably silky
and layers a distinctly fruity note with earthy un-
sweetened chocolate, finishing lightly with a dusting
of lemon-pepper.
abv: 40% Price: $134
93 Smugglers’ Notch Moroccan Rose & Grape-
fruit Flavored Vodka (USA; Smugglers’ Notch
Distillery, Jeffersonville, VT). A candied orange peel
aroma entices the nose. The palate is relatively neu-
tral at first, then plenty of orange peel and grape-
fruit pith emerges on the rounded, surprisingly long
90 Round Rock Vodka (USA; Gulf Coast Distill-
ers, Houston, TX). Made from 100% corn,
this versatile small batch vodka is relatively neutral
finish, adding ginger and white pepper sparks. Mix on nose and palate, with brushes of charcoal, citrus
with tonic or soda water. and white pepper, with a bracing, drying finish. Sip
abv: 35% Price: $27 or mix. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $20
92 ATX Vodka (USA; Sangiovanni Distillery,
Pflugerville, TX). Look for a neutral aroma
and palate laced with almond sweetness. The long,
bracing finish suggests pink peppercorn, grapefruit
90 South Fork Vodka (USA; Satellite Spirits,
Grass Valley, CA). This small batch vodka
distilled from corn has a distinctly sweet, marsh-
peel, cardamom and clove. Best Buy. mallow-like aroma. The palate also has a sugary tone,
abv: 40% Price: $19 hinting at marshmallow and coconut, finishing brisk.
Best Buy.
92 Belvedere Single Estate Rye Vodka Lake
Bartezek (Poland; Moët Hennessy, New York,
NY). One of two new bottles introduced to demon-
abv: 40% Price: $19
strate the impact of terroir in vodka, this bottling is
crisp, light and overall neutral on nose and palate. A
vegetal hint on the palate leads into white pepper,
ginger and lemon peel on the exhale.
abv: 40% Price: $38
91 Shelta Cavern Spirits Vodka (USA; Straight to
Ale Brands, Huntsville, AL). Made from malt-
ed barley and wheat, look for distinct fruity notes
For more on the Top 100 Spirits,
visit winemag.com/TopSpirits2020
R E V E L AT I O N
T H E WO R L D ' S F I N EST W I N E C E L L A R E XC LUS I V E LY AT W I N E E N T H US I AST

R E V E L AT I O N D O U B L E L

A SK OUR E XPERTS WHICH

EURO C AVE IS RIGH T F OR YOU

8 0 0 . 3 7 7. 3 3 3 0
 U
RODRIGO GUILLENEA/BODEGA GARZÓN

BY MICHAEL SCHACHNER

You’ve probably heard the expression “good things come in small packages.” Such is the wine story
of Uruguay, a country that’s tiny by size and output, but increasingly, a source for opulent as well as elegant wines.
Tucked between Argentina and Brazil on South America’s eastern side, Uruguay is a country of only 3.5 million people, with a
long wine history. In the 18th century, European immigrants came to Uruguay with grapes in tow. A century later, Basque settlers

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

U
MOMENT
RUGUAY’S Modern wines
that make a big
statement are
pushing one of the
world’s smallest
wine-producing
countries to new
heights.

planted Tannat, a powerfully tannic red grape with 13th-century roots in France’s mountainous southwest.
Over the ensuing century and a half, Tannat stood the test of time. It’s been replanted over and over with better-
Bodega
performing French clones to become Uruguay’s signature grape. When made well, it yields a dark-tinted, full- Garzón
bodied and lush wine similar to Argentine Malbec.

WINEMAG.COM | 79
Vineyards at Bodega Bouza

O verall, Tannat accounts for more than 4,000 acres of vines planted largely along the country’s fertile and temperate southern coast-
line, where the Río de la Plata that separates Uruguay from Argentina joins the Atlantic Ocean.
In addition to Tannat, which is sometimes cited for its health benefits because it boasts high levels of polyphenols like resveratrol,

CLOCKWISE FROM UPPER LEFT: COURTESY OF BODEGA BOUZA;

Uruguay is home to red grapes including Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Petit Verdot and Marselan.
Among white grapes, Albariño has adapted well to Uruguay’s Atlantic-influenced terroir, and it’s made mostly in a fresh style akin to wines from
Galicia in northwest Spain. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Petit Manseng round out the country’s white grape varieties.
With barely a dozen of its 180 wineries exporting to the U.S., Uruguay might be easy for stateside wine lovers to dismiss. But if you taste a burly
COURTESY OF BODEGA CERRO CHAPEU (2)
yet balanced Tannat from a winery like Bodega Garzón, Artesana, Familia Deicas, Bodega Cerro Chapeu, Pisano or Bodega Bouza, there’s a strong
chance you’ll be pleasantly surprised, maybe even hooked.
That’s what Uruguay is banking on.
“We have the grapes the world wants,” says Ricardo Cabrera, president of Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura (INAVI), Uruguay’s national
institute for viticulture and winemaking. “We also have tradition, which wasn’t always the best. Too much color and heavy wines…that’s not what
most people want today.
“But we have much better knowledge and experience now,” he says. “We have more talent—domestic and international—working in the wine
industry, and we understand that the public demands better wines. We are still a bit like kids who begin by crawling, then they start walking, and
finally they are alone and running. That is us today.”

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 “We have the
grapes the
world wants.
We also have
tradition,
which wasn’t
always the
best.”
—Ricardo
Cabrera

Vineyards (left) and

tank room at Bodega
Cerro Chapeu

A Familiar Start
Much like neighboring Argentina and Chile to the west, Uruguay can trace its wine DNA back to a large wave of Spanish and Italian immigration that
began in the 18th century and picked up intensity during the 19th.
The arrival of Tannat in the late 1800s, at the hands of a Basque immigrant named Pascal Harriague, is widely viewed as the starting point for
Uruguayan wine as a commercial entity. Many of those original plantings have since been replaced by proven clones from the Pyrenees wine regions of
Madiran and Irouléguy. The period from the 1970s through the ’90s represents the golden age of replanting. Today, only about one-third of Uruguayan
Tannat qualifies as “old vines” of 50 years or more.
COURTESY OF BODEGA CERRO CHAPEU

For much of the 20th century, Uruguayan wineries toiled in international obscurity, their focus trained on a limited but thirsty domestic market.
The country shares many cultural and culinary customs with Argentina, thus beef is a staple of the local diet. What goes better with grilled meat
than an equally meaty red wine like Tannat?
The last 20 years have introduced major changes to the country’s wines. Consistent export channels and an international reputation for quality are
now priorities, and Uruguayan wineries have made the necessary strides to compete with more established and much larger wine-producing countries.
This has been fueled in part by input from global wine consultants and the overhaul of overproductive vineyards. New growing regions like Garzón
and the emerging Altos de José Ignacio subzone, both in Maldonado where the Atlantic Ocean shows its strongest influence, have also propelled
Uruguay forward.

WINEMAG.COM | 81
 Six Top-Rated
Uruguayan
Wines to 92  Bouza 2018 B6 Parcela Única
Las Violetas Tannat (Canelo-
nes); $48. A nearly black color and
Buy Now ripe aromas of cassis, raisin and road
tar announce a Tannat that’s satu-
rated and rich. This is packed to the
93  Cerro Chapeu 2017 Botovi T1
Single Vineyard Tannat (Uru-
guay); $35. From the Rivera sec-
hilt with pulpy black fruit and tar-
taric acidity that helps with balance.
Dark flavors of blackberry, cassis,
tion of northern Uruguay, this wine
espresso and chocolate finish warm,
offers massive dark-berry aromas
rich and spicy. Drink through 2024.
that range from blackberry to spiced
Elixir Wine Group.
black cherry. Following the nose, the
palate is flush and lush but balanced.
Chocolaty oak blends with ripe
berry and spice flavors in front of a
91  Viña Progreso 2016 Old Vines
Tannat (Progreso); $31. This
small-batch Tannat from the tra-
smooth, toasty finish with black cof-
ditional Progreso subzone near
fee notes and welcome acidity. Drink
Montevideo opens with bright berry
through 2025. MHW, Ltd.
aromas and a sense of freshness.
Familia Deicas The palate is racy but balanced by
92  Artesana 2018 Reserva Tan-
nat (Canelones); $19. Dark
berry aromas form a nose that’s
nicely extracted fruit, while oaky
coffee and chocolate notes aid core
Artesana blackberry fruit. A supple finish
quite dense. A saturated palate is
with good flow wraps up this attrac-
packed with concentrated power,
tive red. Drink through 2023. Copa
while blackberry and cassis flavors
Fina Imports CA.
are backed by oak that’s slightly
charred and warming. Dark choco-
late and smoky flavors play out on
a muscular finish. Enjoy through
89  Cerro Chapeu 2019 Gran
Tradición Petit Manseng-
Viognier (Montevideo); $25. Buttery
2025. Austral Estates Wines. Edi-
oak aromas are out front on this bar-
tors’ Choice.
rel-aged Petit Manseng (with 10%
Viognier). A plump palate is ripe and
92  Bodega Garzón 2018 Single
Vineyard Tannat (Uruguay);
$30. This is a ripe version of Tan-
round on first take, then softer on
the back end. Apple, saline, tropical
fruit and citrus flavors are a mixed
nat, with earth and blackberry aro-
bag, albeit a good one. Drink now.
mas leading the charge. Toasty dark-
MHW, Ltd.
fruit flavors benefit from integrated
oak, while this tastes peppery on the
finish. The palate shows a lot of grip,
so it’s best to serve this with meat.
Drink through 2025. Pacific High-
way Wines & Spirits.

TOP: COURTESY OF ESTABLECIMIENTO JUANICÓ; BOTTOM: ARTESANA WINERY

The Terroir
Draw a horizontal line from Santiago, Chile, through Mendoza, Argentina. Then, extend that line across the Atlantic Ocean to Cape Town, South Africa,
and on to Adelaide, Australia. Finally, it will cross through Auckland, New Zealand.
That line, at roughly 34 degrees south latitude, intersects some of the best winegrowing regions in the Southern Hemisphere. Also situated on that
line is Montevideo, Uruguay’s capital city, as well as the Canelones wine region, the country’s largest and most historic growing area.
Canelones is known for humid weather and profound clay-based soils that yield full-bodied Tannat, as well as a potpourri of other full-flavored
wines that include red blends, Chardonnay and Albariño.
An hour-and-a-half east of Montevideo, the province of Maldonado is home to the world-famous beaches and nightlife of Punta del Este, as well
as the vineyards of Garzón and nearby José Ignacio.
Garzón is where the Argentine oil billionaire Alejandro Bulgheroni, with help from Italian winemaking consultant Alberto Antonini, has spent the
past 20 years turning former cattle grazing land and eucalyptus forests into the country’s most prominent winery.
Bodega Garzón’s early success includes winning Wine Enthusiast’s Wine Star Award for Best New World Winery in 2018. It sold 25,000 cases in the
U.S. last year, by far the most of any Uruguayan winery. Such achievements led others to the area to develop what’s now known as Altos de José Ignacio.
“We like the José Ignacio valley, even though it’s lower in elevation than Garzón,” says Christian Wylie, Bodega Garzón’s general manager, who

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 Vineyards of
Bodega Garzón

believes this part of Uruguay has a special allure. “You get a nice southern exposure to the Atlantic Ocean for Albariño and a northern exposure to
ripen red grapes like Tannat and Cabernet Franc. Plus, it all sits on quick-draining soils, so you avoid the water retention that leads to the heavier
wines that other areas of the country produce.”
Reputable names now exploring the Maldonado area and planting new vineyards include the Deicas and Bouza families, both from Canelones.
Meanwhile, top-flight winemakers from Argentina including Gerardo Michelini, whose Uco Valley wines are highly sought, and Hans Vinding-Diers,
a Dane who has helped advance the windy Río Negro region at Bodega Noemia de Patagonia, are also working on projects in Garzón and Altos de José
Ignacio, respectively.

The Wrap
COURTESY OF BODEGA GARZÓN

In 2019, Uruguay exported just 38,000 cases of wine to the U.S., barely a drop in a global ocean that rises every year. With distribution like that,
one could argue that the country will never earn much space in the American wine consumer’s cellar. But, if variety is the spice of life, isn’t there
always room for something new and good?
“We think this our moment,” says Cabrera. “We have a new young president [Luis Lacalle] who believes in the wine industry. We have domestic
stability. We want to produce the quality of wine that consumers want. We want to be an example for all the other small producers in the world.”

WINEMAG.COM | 83
 of 2020
From lagers to stouts, these were
the year’s best-reviewed brews.
BY JOHN HOLL
PHOTO BY TOM ARENA

uring a year that none of us will forget, the brewing industry continued on its

D
path of creativity and innovation with each new beer release.
As taprooms limited capacity, bars closed and draught lines dried up,
beer drinking was done increasingly at home. In response, many breweries
launched delivery services, offered curbside pickups or expanded distri-
bution to retail outlets, all of which made it easier than ever to keep your beer fridge
stocked. And with more than 8,000 breweries in the country, there are seemingly endless
options for your next beer.
America’s craft brewing industry remains IPA focused, both by customer demand
and brewers’ enthusiasm for producing the style. This year, however, there was also a
noticeable increase in the amount of lagers, as well as a wealth of experimentation with
traditional beer styles and infusion of fruits or other specialty ingredients.
The following list is a showcase of the top beers tasted in 2020. It’s packed with satis-
fying sips, pleasurable pints and an array of flavorful, crushable cans from around the
country, with a price point to meet every budget.
Get your favorite glass and get ready to drink along as we toast the fine ales and lagers
that inspired and delighted us.

84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

WINEMAG.COM | 85
 TOP 25 BEERS I 2020
1 4
98 Port Mongo Double IPA (American Double IPA;
Port Brewing, CA). This offers a lively com-
bination of key flavors in a manageable high-alcohol
package. Clear bronze in color, it has a classic biscuit-
malt backbone and threads of pine hops that evolve to
a pleasing herbal bitterness which emerges midpalate
and eventually gives way to a soft clementine finish.
abv: 8% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack
2
96 New Realm United Craft Lager (Lager; New
Realm Brewing Company, Atlanta, GA). As-
sertive carbonation brings aromas of ripe lime, lush
tangerine and apricot skin to the surface. These tones
come through on the palate to yield a wonderful tap-
estry of New World flavors with Old World respect
and know-how. It finishes with a slight spice note
that adds a snap to any sweetness that might have
built up. All of the ingredients come together in a, yes,
united way that will bring you back can after can.
abv: 4.5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack
3 6
98 Cascade 2017 Bubonic Plague (Barrel-aged
Robust Porter; Cascade Brewing, OR). This is
tart stone-fruit forward, with some light malt roast in
the background that never quite settles on any of the
traditional, familiar flavors. A dry, tannic midpalate
and finish would indicate that significant time was
spent in wood, taking on the characteristics of pre-
vious occupants. The brewery calls this an imperial
porter aged in Bourbon barrels with dates and spices.
This is a springtime sipper, when there is still a chill
in the air but promise of warm weather ahead.
abv: 11.1% Price: $14/500 ml
86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
97 Parish Ghost in the Machine Ale (Hazy/Juicy
American Double IPA; Parish Brewing Co., LA).
It takes some time for this hazy, pineapple-juice
cocktail of a beer to truly reveal itself. It is bursting
with fruit notes of mango and papaya, layered with
orange peel and tangerine on the earthy wheat body.
The hop bitterness grows as the glass empties, but
it is such a slow process that the nature of the hops
never overpowers.
abv: 8% Price: $14/12 oz 4 pack
5
95 Ecliptic Callisto Blackcurrant Tripel (Belgian-
style Tripel; Ecliptic Brewing, OR). Showing
peppery and spicy notes, this tripel gets an assist
from the tannic black currants that not only add
to the auburn hue of the beer, but also give it a dry
finish. Flowery, yeasty flavors and a malt sweetness
bring out a just underripe raspberry flavor on the
midpalate.
abv: 7.5% Price: $4/500 ml
97 Lakefront 2019 Black Friday Barleywine
(Barrel-aged Barleywine; Lakefront Brewery,
WI). The strength of this barleywine is that it stands
tall on its own and the barrels only play a small role in
the overall flavor. The wood is important, mind you,
and offers up the vanilla and spice components that
one expects from Bourbon barrels, but the base beer
offers tones of caramel, butterscotch and light min-
erality. An annual release from the brewery available
on the day after Thanksgiving, this will age well over
the next five years or can be consumed immediately.
abv: 14.8% Price: $20/22 oz
7
98 Rhinegeist Truth India Pale Ale (American IPA;
Rhinegeist Brewing, OH). This IPA is like be-
ing punched with an iron fist in a velvet glove. It is fun
and engaging, with mango and pineapple hop flavors
that are soft and inviting, followed by orange, grape-
fruit and a finishing touch of pine. It has diversity
in each sip and it drinks just a little too easy for its
above-average alcohol level.
abv: 7.2% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack
8
98 Weldwerks Medianoche Brewer’s Select
(Barrel-aged Imperial Stout; Weldwerks Brew-
ing, CO). This is a decadent ale that seems to capture
all light around it. With a silky jet-black pour and a
thin head, it leaves legs on the glass as it empties. Va-
nilla and oak are the dominant flavors behind the rich
cocoa base. Whiffs of pipe tobacco, soft aged leather
and husky malt are intertwined in this ale that has
spent the better part of two years sleeping in Bourbon
barrels. Solidly built, sipping on this beer helps the
mind wander to peaceful places and should be en-
joyed with abandon.
abv: 14.5% Price: $32/22 oz
9
95 Springdale Coconut Cast Away (American Wild
Ale; Springdale Beer Co., MA). This is a lovely
sour ale that offers bright acidity, a hint of lemon cit-
rus and a quality that gets the salivatory glands going.
At first blush you could think it’s a young beer made
by an experienced Belgian brewery, but the reserved
coconut note shows up and it shows its American
roots. Some breweries might try to hit you over the
head with it, but this one teases you. The coconut
tone disappears and then reappears, its flavor grows
as the beer warms, and a woody character is revealed.
Drink one now, but get a second to age. This has
promise to delight over time. Drink through 2025.
abv: 6.5% Prie: $12/500 ml
10
95 Side Project Brewing Grisette Blend #6 (Gri-
sette; Side Project Brewing, MO). A lovely all-
day sipper that is lively with just-ripe strawberry
and peach. Champagne-like carbonation wakes up
the taste buds and reveals a soft wheat character
that is like lightly toasted country bread followed
by a slight earthy hop bite. On the finish is an oak
character from the foudres used to age the beer. This
ale manages to be both traditional and modern in
each sip.
abv: 4% Price: $15/750 ml
11
95 Alaskan Imperial Bock (Eisbock; Alaskan
Brewing, AK). Bursting with rich tobacco and
toffee aromas, there’s a woody, spruce-like character
that likely comes from being brewed with oak chips.
There is a thin line of heat that rolls from the first
sniff to the last sip, making this the kind of beer you’d
want to drink outside while ice fishing, or just stand-
ing in the middle of a blizzard. It’ll warm you up and
make you not care about the cold. A malt-derived
fruitiness of raisin, plum and fortified grapes give it
a brandy-like finish.
abv: 12.2% Price: $10/22 oz
12
96 Reuben’s Triple Crush Hazy India Pale Ale
(Hazy/Juicy American Double IPA; Reuben’s
Brews, WA). This is smooth and tangy in tart lime and
lychee tones, with hints of passion fruit and orange
popping up. All these tones shine on their own and
are spokes that connect to a light-colored yellow hazy
body with a full mouthfeel.
abv: 10% Price: $20/16 oz 4 pack
13
94 Rockwell Beer Co. Stand By Hoppy Pilsner
(Pilsner; Rockwell Beer Co., Saint Louis, MO).
A “hoppy pilsner” that delivers on both without al-
lowing the former to overwhelm the latter. Respon-
sibly dosed without a residual hop bitterness, it has
a juicy character of tropical fruit, with a touch of or-
ange and even a little earthiness. Some lagers can grab
your palate’s attention from the first sip and hold it
through until the end, and this is one of them.
abv: 5.3% Price: $10/16 oz 4 pack
14
98 Revolution Mixed Berry Ryeway Rye Ale
(Barrel-aged Rye Ale; Revolution Brewing, IL).
Pouring a shade of royal purple, this is sweet, tart and
teeming with real juice from the raspberries, black-
berries, cranberries and boysenberries that went
into the recipe. Part of the brewery’s Deep Wood se-
ries of beer, this rye ale never feels heavy and lets all
of the fruit tones shine—tart cranberry followed by
tangy raspberry, then sweet boysenberry. The wood
ties it all together with an earthy note before a strong
cherry juice finish.
abv: 12.4% Price: $40/12 oz 4 pack
15
96 Area Two Black Raspberry (Lambic; Two
Roads Brewing, CT). This deep purple ale has
a rouge foam that rings the edge of the glass, which
is enough of a reason to buy this beer—it’s mesmer-
izing to look at. The blackberry in this lambic from
Area Two, a sour project by Two Roads brewery, is the
star of the show and shows off all the versatility of the
fruit. It’s tart and sweet, assertive yet subdued. With
mellow acidity and a dusting of chocolate, it’s slightly
thick and jammy. It’s a beer that is made by years of
honing a skill, not just a lucky one-time batch.
abv: 6.7% Price: $15/375 ml
16
96 West Sixth Pennyrile Pale Ale (Juicy/Hazy
Pale Ale; West Sixth Brewing, KY). The cara-
mel malts play a crucial role in this beer, as they
give a soft and sweet platform for the tropical fruit
hop oils. It offers a smooth hop experience from be-
ginning to end, never becoming too bitter. It’s the
right beer for an afternoon on the lake or a sunset
drink before dinner.
abv: 6% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack
17
95 Atlas Silent Neighbor (Stout; Atlas Brew
Works, Washington, D.C.). This is a fun every-
day stout that is rich, warming and easydrinking. It’s
a fine accompaniment to a lunch out or a session dur-
ing an evening around the firepit. It was brewed with
molasses and rye, but won’t weigh you down with
alcohol or body weight. It will tickle the taste buds
with milk chocolate, a smooth coffee roast and a hint
of vanilla bean.
abv: 6.7% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack
WINEMAG.COM | 87
 TOP 25 BEERS I 2020

18
97 Wormtown Rocket Pale Ale (American Pale
Ale; Wormtown Brewing, MA). A miraculous
combination of orange zest, tangerine and apricot is
balanced by a spicy malt note that creates a zippy,
refreshing ale. Brewed with specialty rye from a lo-
cal maltster, this is the kind of pale ale that locals are
lucky to have access to and beer fans should travel for.
abv: 5% Price: $11/16 oz 4 pack
21
94 Lawson’s Hopzilla (American Double IPA;
Lawson’s Finest Liquids, VT). The hops are a
showcase here, with traditional pine, grapefruit and
dried citrus flavors and aromas. There is also a boost
from a strong malt content that is not shy about fla-
vors of caramel, grape nuts and crusty bread. This is
an old school IPA that is doing just fine in a modern
hoppy world.
abv: 8.7% Price: $15/16 oz 4 pack
24
93 Ayinger Altbairisch Dunkel (Munich-style Dun-
kel; Ayinger, Germany). This shows a lovely
combination of worn leather, sweet tobacco, dried
sweet cherry and a dusting of chocolate. It’s dessert
in a glass that won’t weigh you down. With effer-
vescent carbonation that keeps each sip lively, this
well-crafted lager remains crisp from start to finish
and shows a Sherry-like depth woven throughout. It
would be a wonderful pairing with a slow cooked beef
and root vegetable stew. Merchant du Vin.
abv: 5% Price: $4/25 oz

19
97 Drowned Lands Spring Terra Double IPA (Hazy/
Juicy American Double IPA; Drowned Lands
Brewing, NY). Pale and bright straw in color, this of-
fers pleasing aromas of lemon curd and spun confec-
tioner’s sugar. Sip after sip, it comes across as light
and airy despite the amped up alcohol. It’s like a
warm ray of sunlight that lands on an otherwise nippy
spring day.
abv: 8.2% Price: $20/16oz 4 pack
20
94 Notch Cerné Pivo (European-style Dark La-
ger; Notch Brewing, MA). This brewery cares
about tradition and process, so it’s no surprise that
this black lager is the closest thing to what you’d get
in Bavaria without having to leave New England. It’s
light and crisp, with just a hint of roasted coffee and
an earthy hop bitterness. The low abv makes this an
ideal session beer for just about any occasion. It’s
smooth, refreshing and thought provoking.
abv: 4.5% Price: $10/16 oz 4 pack
22
25
96 Sun King Bourbon Barrel Aged Donuts (Barrel-
aged Stout; Sun King Brewery, IN). With an
aroma like walking into a bakery minutes after the 92 Narraganset Autocrat Coffee Milk Stout (Milk
Stout; Narragansett Brewing, RI). This is the
pasties have been dusted, a whiff of confectioners’ kind of stout you want served in a dimpled mug inside
sugar bounces from the glass and stays until the end of a cozy pub on a rainy afternoon. Softly sweet, there’s
each sip. The vibrant, powdered sugar tone is boosted a fun and lively coffee roast with some milk chocolate
on the palate by raspberry jelly and a sweet choco- and a slight hop bite. But any bitterness comes from
late. Whatever kind of baked sorcery the brewers did the java or malt. With a smooth mouthfeel, this col-
to this stout, a collaboration with Jack’s Donuts, it laboration with Autocrat coffee, a local producer, is
works. It’s the breakfast beer we deserve, especially one to seek out.
after a morning trip to the gym. Treat yourself. abv: 5.5% Price: $11/16oz 6 pack
abv: 10.4% Price: $20/16 oz 2 pack
23
94 Avery Night Warden Whiskey Barrel-Aged
Stout (Barrel-aged Stout; Avery Brewing Co.,
CO). This is a barrel-aged stout made for everyday
drinking. With a manageable alcohol level, drinking
this need not be a special occasion. The base stout
recipe, with subdued chocolate, toffee and coffee fla-
vors, remains intact and is lightly accented by a softly
toasted wooden-barrel character. There is nothing
flashy about this beer, no bells or whistles, just a
showcase of what a familiar beer can do after a spell
in whiskey barrels. A chocolate bitterness creeps in
on the finish, but is washed away clean with the next,
slightly sweet yet still refreshing sip.
abv: 8.2% Price: $17/12 oz 6 pack

For more on this year’s list, visit

winemag.com/TopBeers2020

88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 SPECIAL PROMOTION

THERE’S MORE TO DISCOVER WITHIN

THE CÔTES DU RHÔNE
Côtes du Rhône wines have become American favor- Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, and Roussanne are woven
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beloved for their characterful, easy-drinking nature. 
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value-drivenen reds. This is a region with more than 2,000 While red wines may have propelled Côtes du Rhône into
years of winemaking heritage, spanning a complex and the spotlight, the region’s white and rosé wines are hidden
compelling range e of unique terroirs.
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es, the Côtes du Rhône follows the Rhône River Ri as it trac- ĨǕ
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es a course through exceptionally diverse erse and demanding centerpieces. Whether it’s a textured white to
terroirs. From dramatic terraces, across oss sloped hillsides, pair with festive turkey, a structured rosé to
to alluvial plains, vines thrive in a mosaic of soils. Whether match roasted duck, or an earthy red
sand, limestone, clay, or the region’ss famed galets, these 

ǔ Ǖǔ Ĩ
soils lend individual character to the wide range e of Côtes Côtes du Rhône is filled
du Rhône wines. with food-friendly
The Côtes du Rhône is devoted to quality across oss all le
levels options to discover
of its hierarchy, from the foundational Côtes du Rhône AOC, OC, and enjoy.
across the dynamic Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC OC up to 21
geographic names that can append their name to the Côtes
 /| ,Ǖ\ 1 űŕ
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tegral throughout all of these tiers, as 23 grape varieties are
grown within the Côtes du Rhône’s vineyards. Red grapes like
Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre and white grapes like

Photo Credit: Bernard Favre, Favoreat Europe Design, Christophe Grilhe

 NEW IDEAS
ON THE OLD
CENTRAL COAST
Historic estates in one of California’s
seminal wine regions continue to innovate.
B Y M AT T K E T T M A N N

JIMMY HAYES/EDEN RIFT VINEYARDS

90 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 F
rom the late 1700s, when Spanish friars planted vines in Santa
Barbara County, to the end of the 19th century, when French
and Italian immigrants established nurseries and vineyards
throughout the Santa Cruz Mountains, California’s Central Coast
has played a prominent role in the rise of American viticulture.
As much of that history slips away with the march of time, a number of
the region’s wineries embrace these chapters with pride. But the best of these
brands aren’t content to remind us of yesteryear. They’re also focused on the
future, evolving constantly to compete with the best wines in the world.
Few projects represent this better than Eden Rift in San Benito County,
which has breathed new life into a bucolic property first planted in 1849.
Just to the southwest in the Carmel Valley, Massa Estate has revived the
old Durney Vineyard, planted in 1968. Down in Paso Robles, meanwhile, the
Dusi family continues a Zinfandel heritage that’s a century old.
In southern San Luis Obispo County, Center of Effort has turned a faded
Edna Valley facility into a hotbed of high-quality production. And in the Sta.
Rita Hills of Santa Barbara County, Peake Ranch pays homage to a former
owner, the late artist Channing Peake, and the wine industry itself. It high-
lights the very spot where regional pioneers first plotted a new appellation
more than two decades ago.
All together, these producers teach strong lessons in how respect for the
Eden Rift Vineyards
and the Cienega Valley past can be a key strategy for a thriving future.

WINEMAG.COM | 91
More than 170 Years of History
Eden Rift Vineyards
After trying for nearly two years to find a historic California vineyard to
purchase, preserve and promote, wine industry veteran Christian Pillsbury
learned of a ranch in the Cienega Valley of San Benito County.
“I could immediately see that this was the right thing,” he says. “It had
everything that we wanted to accomplish. It had lost its way and was at risk
of being lost forever.”
Frenchman Theophile Vache planted the original vines here in 1849
and was one of the first people to plant Pinot Noir in California back in
1860. The property, which would later be renamed Eden Rift, featured a
marvelous mansion and Zinfandel vines, both dating back to 1906 and the
joint ownership of Captain Jules Jacques St. Hubert, a winemaker, and a
Chicago grain broker named John Dickinson. It endured many peaks and
valleys, from widespread renown under Dickinson as well as proprietors
named Palmtag and Valliant.
When he bought the property at the end of 2016, Pillsbury began
research that may never end.
“What we’ve done is peel the paint off of this property and just
understand what was here and when,” he says. “To find something that is
a fount of authentic American and Californian viticultural history, it gets
my heart racing.”
In 2017, he and Cory Waller, the winemaker, began to replant much of
the vineyard, now about 65% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. They added
terraced blocks of Pinot Gris, some Rhône grapes and a new block of Trous-
seau, which Vache had also planted. Wines made from those, along with
that historic Zin, are sold worldwide.
“If you’re from San Benito County, there is a swelling of pride,” says Pills-
bury, who’s from San Francisco. “And if you’re from New York or Chicago
or Tokyo, discovering something new that has been lost in the mists of time
is fantastic.”

From top: Eden Rift Vineyards; the cellar;

the property’s original farmouse; terraces
of Pinot Noir on the Lansdale Slope, which
was the first block grafted at Eden Rift

JIMMY HAYES/EDEN RIFT VINEYARDS; COURTESY OF EDEN RIFT VINEYARDS (3)

92
 Caring for Coastal Mountain Cabernet
Massa Estate
“For a vineyard of this age to be in the coastal mountains and be relatively
unknown, but still capable of this quality, is just plain unheard of,” says
Ian Brand, winemaker for Massa Estate. He’s helping longtime Monterey
County farmers Bill and Laurie Massa, who bought this ranch in 2018,
rejuvenate half-century-old vines and reopen a long-shuttered winery.
In the remote Cachagua area of the Carmel Valley, the property was
planted with seven acres of Cabernet Sauvignon in 1968. It was known
as the Durney Vineyard, and more acres of Cab, Chenin Blanc and
Pinot Noir would follow. The own-rooted cuttings, which came from
the historic Mirassou Winery vineyards of the Santa Clara Valley, still
thrive today.
“The Durney wines have long been the stuff of legend locally,” says
Brand, who points to 1978 as a particularly compelling vintage. “But
only whispers of that fame extended beyond the region.”
Over time, the vineyard has grown to about 85 acres, with a switch to
organic farming in 1996, when it was known as the Heller Estate. When
the Massas bought the property, the first tasks were to improve vine
Clockwise from right: the fountian
and chapel on Massa Estate’s
grounds; a stained-glass window
from chapel; Cabernet Sauvignon
vines; a Cabernet vineyard
ALLI PURA (4)
health and connect grape buyers with the right winemakers. That’s so far
included Megan Bell of Margins Wine, Joshua Hammerling of Blue Ox,
Matt Nagy of Benevolent Neglect, Jaime Motley and Rajat Parr.
Plans call to remodel existing structures, which include a small chapel,
into a retreat and event space, and to also make the winery functional.
“It’s outfitted with all the latest technology from 1980,” says Brand.
“The idea is to move all the production back up there.”
He says that several younger winemakers are interested in the full-
time gig when that’s available.
“People want to make it sing again,” says Brand, who’s as excited
about the potential at Massa as he is at the many old-vine properties
he’s discovered across the region.
“The fact that we can grow in these rugged areas a few miles from
the coast and capture the cooling influence of that refracted sunlight
and licks of fog, and do it all at elevation is something absolutely unique
to California, and unique to this section of the Central Coast,” he says.
“It’s a story that needs to be told and reflected more.”
WINEMAG.COM | 93
Generational Zinfandel
J. Dusi Wines
“Growing up, this was our life,” says Janelle Dusi, minutes after she finished
a morning pick of Zinfandel from her family’s Paso Robles ranch on the east
edge of Highway 101, planted in 1926.
“We were expected to do everything,” says her brother Matt Dusi. “You’d
get shamed if you didn’t show up.”
In 1907, Sylvester Dusi left the Northern Italian village of Ono Degno,
near Lake Garda, to work the coal mines of Pennsylvania. He then headed
west, where he opened a hotel in Paso Robles in 1921.
The next year, he married Caterina Gazzaroli, who’d come to work in the
hotel from Casto, Italy, and they planted vines four years later. Their sons,
Guido, Dante and Benito, carried on the family’s hospitality and vineyard
pursuits. They planted more Zinfandel in 1945, just west of Highway 101.
Though they mostly sold grapes, the Dusis made commercial wine when
grape prices fell in the 1950s. They sold it through a small tasting room on
their ranch, the first ever along 101. The structure still stands, its shelves
loaded with 50-year-old bottles. The family focused on farming for the next 50
years, and it remains a major chunk of their business, with grapes sold to Ridge
Vineyards, Turley Wine Cellars, Tobin James Cellars and other Zinfandel stars.
But in 2005, fourth-generation vintner Janelle, who crafted her first
homemade wine at age 13, launched J. Dusi Wines, which returned the
family name to a brand. Seven years later, her father, Mike Dusi, bought
360 rugged acres in the Willow Creek District, after a prolonged search for
a new vineyard site. He planted nearly 110 acres to 11 varieties across four
ridges. Called the Paper Street Vineyard, it quickly became a coveted source
of grapes for wineries across Paso Robles.
Top: Grenache in J. Dusi Wines’ Paper Street Vineyard;
Janelle, Matt and their brother, Michael Dusi, all work in the family busi- above left: Sylvester Dusi on the Dusis’ home ranch in the
ness, with those original Zinfandel vines still at its core. They garner deeper late 1940s; an original Dusi wine bottle from the family’s
attention, as the family works with Cal Poly to better understand older cellar, which was printed in 1942 when the family had a
tasting room on Highway 101; below: traditional grape
vines versus new ones. picking boxes for harvesting small lots of grapes
“A lot of sorting isn’t really true to the variety,” says Janelle. “The small
berries are too intense, and the big ones are too watery. You need them both
to make a complex wine.”

OF J. DUSI WINES (4)

PHOTO CREDIT
COURTESY

Honing a Historic Facility
Center of Effort
When it was founded as a quarter-million-case facility in 1979, the ambi-
tious Lawrence Winery put the Edna Valley on California’s wine map.
Two years later, it was renamed Corbett Canyon Winery, which The
Wine Group acquired in 1988. It became one of the country’s most
popular brands, thanks to affordable prices and catchy advertisements
that echo in people’s ears today.
As Corbett Canyon grew, The Wine Group consolidated production
elsewhere. In 2008, longtime Raytheon chairman Bill Swanson and
developer/vintner Rob Rossi acquired the massive facility, which Rossi
helped design, as well as the surrounding vineyards, which had been
planted in 1997. They called their brand Center of Effort.
COURTESY OF CENTER OF EFFORT (4)
Swanson took full ownership in 2016, and with the guidance from
the general manager/winemaker, Nathan Carlson, the vineyards have
been replanted and expanded to nearly 80 acres. The winery is a hub
of both boutique and larger batch production, and sustainability is
centerstage. This year, Center of Effort was declared Sustainability
in Practice (SIP) Certified in both the vineyard and winery, only
the fourth brand to achieve that dual designation, and the first that
includes custom crush clients.
Top: Center of Effort vineyard and winery; bottom, left
to right: aerial view prior to 1978 opening; a tour group
explores after opening; winemaking under the ownership
of Lawrence Winery
The focus for Center of Effort remains estate-grown, luxury-level
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but Carlson returned once-common
Chenin Blanc back to the Edna Valley and also experiments with Rhône
grapes. In 2019, the property underwent a multimillion dollar remodel
centered around hospitality, with a new demonstration kitchen and
outdoor entertainment areas.
“It’s about having a place to really tell the Center of Effort story
very clearly,” says Carlson, who has grown the wine club steadily, even
during the pandemic. “We provide a special place where our members
can feel safe and cared for as well.”
While he processes fruit for large clients in the refurbished facility,
Carlson rents winemaking space to small brands like Coby Parker-
Garcia’s El Lugar Wines and John Niven’s Cadre Wines. Niven’s family
was the first to plant grapes in the Edna Valley, back in 1973.
“We don’t make a lot of money having Coby and John in here, but
they are people we want to support and brands that have integrity,”
says Carlson. “We want to see them succeed, and it’s just good for our
winemaking to be surrounded by people with good and different ideas.”
WINEMAG.COM | 95

Cowboy Country
Peake Ranch
“We’re certainly very keen to maintain the spirit of the place as an
artistic, agrarian mecca,” says John Wagner, who purchased 107 acres of
the southeastern Sta. Rita Hills in 2009. He christened it Peake Ranch,
in honor of the late cowboy-artist Channing Peake.
Developed in the late 1800s by a Danish dairy farmer, whose stone
water cisterns still stand on the hilltops, Peake bought what was then
a 1,600-acre ranch in 1938. He spent the next two decades at what he
called Rancho El Jabali.
“He would get up in the morning, do cowboy stuff and then, in the
afternoon, retire to that studio, which was the old cow-milking barn, and
paint,” says Wagner. “Hence, all of the Channing Peake paintings that are
floating around Santa Barbara County.” A handful are displayed in Peake
Ranch’s tasting room, which opened along with the new winery in 2019.
The old structures were also headquarters for Pinot Noir pioneer
Richard Sanford from the 1980s to the early 2000s, where he and
others plotted the creation of a new America Viticultural Area (AVA).
“That hay bale barn that Richard built 40 years ago is where
everyone met to plan the Sta. Rita Hills AVA,” says Wagner. “We wanted
96 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
Clockwise from left: Channing Peake, a previous owner of
the land that became Peake Ranch, drawing under a tree;
Sta. Rita Hills vineyards; tractor prepruning Chardonnay
vines; the old Sanford Tasting Room
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF CHANNING PEAKE ESTATE, HEATHER DAENITZ,
to preserve that because it’s part of our region’s heritage.”
Drawing from his experience as owner of the nearby John Sebastiano
Vineyard as well as Sierra Madre Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley,
Wagner planted the property with 43.5 acres of wine grapes. They’re
overseen by vineyard manager Mike Anderson, who for decades ran
Oakville Station, a research vineyard for the University of California,
Davis, and the winemaker, Wynne Solomon, who grew up in Sonoma
County before she moved south.
John’s wife, Jill, guided the winery and tasting room design.
“She was super-committed to building a winery that wasn’t going MACDUFF EVERTON, HEATHER DAENITZ
to be the center of attention,” says Wagner, who prefers to empha-
size the vineyard, creek, mountains and old buildings. “We’ve always
had the attitude that we wanted the winery to blend in as much as a
15,000-square-foot building can.”
The best evidence they succeeded? Peake’s fifth and last wife,
Cherie Peake, visits often. “The history of the place is part of what’s so
enchanting,” says Wagner. “For 150 years, people tried to do something
in this canyon.”
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In
2020, we mark the 21st
anniversary of Wine
Enthusiast’s Annual Wine
Star Awards, honoring the
individuals and companies
that make outstanding
contributions to the wine
and alcohol beverage world. In a chal-
lenging year, we salute the dedicated
professionals who have innovated, flour-
ished and exhibited a passion for change.
From winemakers to wineries,
sommeliers to CEOs, innovators and
social visionaries, each winner has
balanced business acumen with vision,
shown a drive and resilience to weather
challenges, and made steps to evolve the
future of wine and alcohol beverage.
Nominated by our global sales, events,
marketing and editorial divisions with
final selections made by our executive
publishing team, winners will be honored
via a virtual event in January 2021. For
details on the event and further insight on
our selection process, visit winemag.com
On the pages ahead, meet the bright
stars of 2020.

BY
TOM ARENA

T H E E D I TO RS O F
WINE ENTHUSIAST

WINEMAG.COM | 99
HEIDI SCHEID
PERSON OF THE YEAR
The Scheid Family Wines executive grows the
family business while helping others through
the Wine Market Council.
“I love this industry from the
bottom of my heart,” says Heidi
Scheid. “To bring wine into the
everyday lives of Americans—I just
really believe in that mission.”
When Scheid first came on
board at Scheid Family Wines as
the director of planning in 1992,
the Salinas Valley-based estate
was a grape-growing and -selling
venture. Taking on the executive
vice president role in 2017, Scheid
has overseen the company’s quick
evolution into an estate vineyard
and winery that now produces a
broad portfolio of its own-labeled
wines as well as a series of private
labels for retail clients.
Outside the family business,
Scheid is the current chairperson
for the Wine Market Council—an
organization that provides wine
market knowledge, trends and in-
sights to its industry members.
“It is so valuable to midsized
wineries who can’t afford to have
their own research and develop-
ment department,” she says.
A midsized-winery executive
herself, Scheid understands the
value of utilizing market data to
grow. For her, it’s important for
“In this business,
it’s hard to
become a big
player. It’s hard
to create a brand
from zero and go
to a million.
But we’re a
scrappy company.”
the marketplace,” Scheid tells
Wine Enthusiast.
According to her, in under
10 years, Scheid Family Wines
went from producing a modest
4,000 cases to 600,000 cases noted as one of the first wineries in est label, Sunny with a Chance
annually. Under her watch, the North America to earn this accredi- of Flowers, is a low-calorie wine.
Scheid family has also increased tation known for having the highest “The research validated to us and
its vineyard holdings to 12 estate- level of food safety protocols. our business partners that…the
owned sites, totaling 4,000 acres Having this certification, ‘better-for-you’ category is real,”
of vines—all of which are certified Scheid says, has helped the busi- Scheid says.
sustainable and working toward ness act as a leader in terms of “In this business, it’s hard to
organic certifications. how to operate in a pandemic. become a big player. It’s hard to
“One of our core values is con- “We have all the audit proce- create a brand from zero and go to
tinuous improvement, and for us, dures in place: a sanitation team, a million,” she says, “But we’re a
the next step is obtaining organic wine quality control and docu- scrappy company. And you have to
certification on 100% of our vine- mented traceability of all products be scrappy in such a competitive
yards by 2025,” Scheid says. from vine to bottle.” The rigorous marketplace.”
ELISABETH FALL, FALLFOTO

that growth to be sustainable.
“My responsibility has been
helping to lead that evolution
from a supplier to other wineries
to a producer that’s on the global
map bringing bottled goods to
With that spirit of improve-
ment, Scheid Family Wines’ es-
tate winery turned its attention to
employee and consumer health. It
achieved British Retail Consortium
(BRC) certification in 2016 and was
standards allow the business to
ensure it provides clean, safe prod-
ucts to their clientele as well as
maintain a healthy work environ-
ment for all employees.
Scheid Family Wines’ new-
For her dedication to
responsible growth, consumer
health and employee safety, Wine
Enthusiast is proud to award Heidi
Scheid as our Person of the Year.
—Stacy Briscoe

100 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

ALAN DREEBEN
LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT
After growing American wine culture through
his Republic National Distributing Company,
the executive retires this year.
Alan Dreeben, the widely admired
and respected partner in Republic
National Distributing Company,
will step down from the board of
directors at the end of 2020, bow-
ing out of management of the sec-
ond largest wholesale wine and
spirits distributor in the United
States. Dreeben, 77, will hand off
his board seat to his son-in-law
Marc Sachs and will take a part-
time role as advisory director after
54 years with RNDC.
“Never in my wildest imagi-
nation did I think that we would
have the size and scope that we
have today,” Dreeben tells Wine
Enthusiast. “We’re not through.
We will continue to grow, but be-
ing the biggest is not my goal. My
goal has always been to do the
best for our customers. Now my
part will be to help set the vision
and be a cheerleader.”
Often, it seemed as if Dreeben
was working for the benefit of non-
profit organizations or the wine in-
dustry as a whole as much as he
was for the company. His curricu-
lum vitae lists dozens of organiza-
tions in health care, education, the
arts and religion that he and his
wife, Barbara Block Dreeben, have
supported over the years.
“I was not to the manor
born but came from a modest
background,” says the San
Antonio-area resident. “To be as
102 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
“I was not to
the manor
born but came
from a modest
background. To be
as lucky as I have
been and not to
give back is a sin.”
lucky as I have been and not to
give back is a sin. I truly believe it.
There are two ways you can give,
time and money, and my choice
was to give both.”
He was especially focused
on education, serving as a board
member or officer for local school
associations, the Texas State Uni-
versity system and the University
of Texas at Austin, as well as the
Jewish Social Service Federation
in San Antonio. Dreeben was a
member of the Institute of Masters
of Wine North America and was
instrumental in bringing the Wine
& Spirits Education Trust (WSET)
courses to the U.S .
Heidi Scheid, whose family
owns Scheid Family Wines in Mon-
terey County, California, served
with Dreeben on the Wine Market
Council, a nonprofit whose work
supports multiple tiers of the wine
business. She is currently the chair.
“Alan Dreeben’s industry ac-
complishments are profound, but it
is the fact that he is one of the most
well-liked people around that is
truly remarkable.” says Scheid. “He
makes people feel valued and in-
cluded. He practices gratitude and
leads by example.”
As a young man in the 1960s,
Dreeben worked in sales for E. &
J. Gallo. This was when sweet and
fortified wines were the biggest
sellers, and dry table wines were
unknown to most U.S. consumers.
He returned to the family busi-
ness in Texas, Block Distribut-
ing, and stayed with it through the
rest of his career. Over time, Block
would merge with N. Goldring
Corp. and National Distributing to
form Republic National. Dreeben
was instrumental in building a
successful, far-reaching business
while helping to educate Ameri-
cans to appreciate table wine and
give them access to the great wines
of the world.
“To be invested in wine was
unusual back then,” says John
Rydman, owner of the Houston-
based retail chain Spec’s, who has
known Dreeben for decades. “The
liquor guys dominated distribution
in those days, and they were really
structured, all the way down to the
street level. Somebody had to fall in
love with wine and keep pushing it,
and Alan did.”
For his role in popularizing wine
consumption, constantly improv-
ing the professionalism of the mid-
dle tier, and for setting a high bar
for ethics and community spirit,
JENNA DOSCH
Alan Dreeben receives the Lifetime
Achievement Award from Wine
Enthusiast. —Jim Gordon
CHEERS TO ALAN DREEBEN &
THE WINE STAR HONOREES
GARY EBERLE
AMERICAN WINE LEGEND
The pioneer of American Syrah also made Paso
Robles a household name.
If it weren’t for Gary Eberle, two
accepted truths of modern Ameri-
can viticulture may never have tak-
en root: Paso Robles is a great place
to grow grapes, and Syrah is a great
grape to grow across the country.
The only child of a single moth-
er in Western Pennsylvania, Eberle
rode a football scholarship to Penn
State. After earning his Bachelor of
Science degree, he went to Louisi-
ana to pursue graduate studies in
zoology and genetics, but fine wine
stole his heart. In 1971, he headed
west to study at the University of
California, Davis, where he worked
and studied under professors who
were examining whether Paso
Robles could be the next Napa.
“I just fell in love with Paso
Robles,” says Eberle. “The people
are nice, and the weather is so con-
ducive to Bordelaise and Rhône va-
rieties. They do very well here.”
Eberle cofounded Estrella River
Winery in 1973. He quickly won
accolades from Los Angeles to
London for the Cabernet Sauvignon
and Chardonnay. Crucially, he also
planted Syrah, and his 1978 vintage
was the first American bottling to
ever feature 100% Syrah.
Eberle’s “Estrella clone” of Syrah,
reportedly from Chapoutier by way
of the Davis campus vineyard, be-
came coveted across the U.S., from
Washington State to Virginia.
“Probably 60% of all the Syrah
grown in the United States is that
damn clone,” says Eberle. “It’s a
104 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
“We used to go to
the East Coast and
say ‘Paso Robles,’
and they’d ask if we
were from Texas
or Baja California.
Now Paso is known
in the major wine-
consuming nations.
We are a very
serious part of the
wine industry.”
great producer and it doesn’t have
any viticultural problems.”
Based on the initial success,
Eberle’s partners at Estrella River
wanted to keep growing, but he
advised otherwise. He officially
left the partnership in 1981 to start
Eberle Winery, eventually planting that I wasn’t going to be successful everything I have, I crafted,” he says.
three more vineyards and growing unless Paso was successful.” “But I’ve never had another purpose.
production close to 30,000 cases It worked. Right now, I’m sitting in front of my
a year while mentoring new “We used to go to the East winery. I’m here every day, seven
generations of winemakers and Coast and say ‘Paso Robles,’ and days a week. I have good people in
steadily raising Paso’s profile. they’d ask if we were from Texas all the key positions, so this winery
Eberle says he modeled his or Baja California,” he says. “Now runs itself. I’m allowed to just sit out
Paso Robles strategy after what Paso is known in the major wine- here and talk to consumers.”
his old mentor Robert Mondavi consuming nations. We are a very For helping make Syrah and
did for Napa. serious part of the wine industry.” Paso Robles major players in the
“I tried to promote Paso as More than a half-century in, American wine world and mentor-
much as I did my own winery, be- Eberle still works every day, but it’s ing the next generation of stew-
EBERLE WINERY
cause it was one of those chicken or more of a cruise-control lifestyle ards for both, Gary Eberle is Wine
egg things,” he says. “They both had than his early days. Enthusiast’s American Wine
to go up at the same time. I knew “I never inherited a dime— Legend. —Matt Kettmann
Congratulations to this year's honorees
and those before them for your instrumental work in the
wine & alcoholic beverage industry.
We raise a glass to your outstanding achievements.

©2020 DELICATO FAMILY WINES, NAPA, CA

JULIA CONEY
SOCIAL VISIONARY OF THE YEAR
Through her mentorship, writing and the
launch of Black Wine Professionals, she fights
for equity in the industry.
In a time where tensions are high
and uncertainty looms, we crave re-
lentless truth.
That’s what makes Julia Coney
such a treasure: She is always going
to serve up honesty, whether it’s in
a wine review, blog post or sharing
her personal experience.
Coney entered the wine indus-
try in 2016. Since then, she has un-
apologetically blazed her trail as a
thought leader, mentor, writer, ed-
ucator and a powerful advocate de-
termined to create space for other
wine professionals who look like her.
In January 2018, for example, she
made her voice heard and priorities
known in an open letter to famed
wine writer Karen McNeil, express-
ing her disdain for the lack of Black
women within the wine industry.
“I am able to do my work be-
cause of Dorothy Gaiter and John
Brecher,” she says. “Their work has
inspired me for years.”
While the broader wine com-
munity seemed to suddenly recog-
nize there was an issue of diversity
and inclusion within the industry
in June of this year, after #Blackout
Tuesday, Coney had already been
raising her voice about the problem.
That moment was a turning
point for her.
“I created Black Wine Profes-
sionals (BWP) the morning after go-
ing live on Instagram [in June] and
sharing my experiences with racism
106 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
“My mother
often told me,
‘we are blessed
to be a blessing,’
and my work is to
be a blessing to
others, to highlight
others to make
the wine space
approachable.”
in the wine industry,” she says. “I
was just frustrated, and all the frus-
trations of I can’t be the only black
person on these media lists.”
Now a resource not only for port marginalized people who look Black Wine Professionals, but
Black men and women in wine, like me and marginalized people The Roots Fund, Wine Unify and
BWP is also for those industry pro- of color.” even BAME [Wine Professionals],
fessionals who often say that they The last few months for Coney an organization in the United
have trouble finding Black wine have been a roller coaster of emo- Kingdom, that are doing the work.
lovers to participate in press trips, tions, work and realizing it is her It is a process, and we all need
marketing campaigns and other duty, honor and privilege to work grace—those that are doing the
wine-related activations. for those who feel they don’t have a emotional labor and work, and
When asked what it means to be voice in the wine space. those who are working to provide
a social visionary, Coney said she “My mother often told me, ‘we a safe space for BIPOC people in
hadn’t thought about it until she are blessed to be a blessing,’ and my this industry.”
was nominated for the award. work is to be a blessing to others, to For her voice, passion, deter-
“When I look at the bigger pic- highlight others to make the wine mination to change this industry
ture, a social visionary sees the space approachable, engaging, edu- for the better and the inspiration
world in a bigger light,” she says. cational and fun,” she says. she’s provided to up-and-coming
JUSTIN T. GELLERSON
“I think about my legacy often, and Coney recognizes that she has Black wine professionals, Wine
that legacy is a legacy of service, allies in this fight. Enthusiast is proud to honor Julia
to highlight, promote, encourage, “There are a number of Coney as our Social Visionary of
engage, lift up, amplify and sup- organizations,” she says. “Not only the Year. —Chasity Cooper
 CONGRATULATIONS
to all the nominees and winners of this year’s Wine Star Awards.

Especially
Heidi Scheid
Executive Vice President,
Chief Sunny Officer
PERSON OF THE YEAR

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GERARD THOUKIS
WINE EXECUTIVE OF THE YEAR
Foley Family Wines’ Chief Marketing Officer has
helped expand the brand and been instrumental
in growing direct-to-consumer business.
“I was fortunate to be exposed
to the wine industry at a very
young age,” says Gerard Thoukis.
“My grandfather was a wine and
spirits maker on the island of
Cyprus. My father immigrated
to the U.S. to study winemaking
at [University of California,]
Davis, and retired as the VP of
winemaking for E. & J. Gallo.”
Thoukis followed familial foot-
steps, studying fermentation sci-
ence at Davis and then working for
21 years at E. & J. Gallo, most re-
cently as senior director of market-
ing, luxury and retail on premise.
He joined Foley Family Wines
as senior vice president of market-
ing and commercial capability in
2017. Two years later, he assumed
his current role as chief market-
ing officer.
“Foley Family Wines had in-
trigued me for many years,” he tells
Wine Enthusiast. “I realized that
the Foley family and Foley Family
Wines organization were commit-
ted to investing in the business for
the long-term and striving for suc-
cess in the luxury wine market. I
believed I could help that success.”
And, indeed, he has.
Over the past three years,
Thoukis has assisted in the
company’s various acquisitions,
including Acrobat, Banshee and
Ferrari-Carano. The scope of
his work has also encompassed
108 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
“I realized that
the Foley family
and Foley Family
Wines organization
were committed
to investing in the
business for the
long-term and
striving for success
in the luxury wine
market. I believed I
could help.”
leading teams responsible for
direct consumer communications,
product development and branding,
analytics, pricing and market-
channel strategizing.
Though the last year has pre-
sented unique challenges, like
navigating the effects of the fires,
the pandemic and associated tast-
ing room and winery closures,
and the industry’s shift toward
the direct-to-consumer (DTC)
marketplace, Thoukis has taken
them in stride. He says that he—
along with Foley Family Wine’s
executive leadership team, led
by President Shawn Schiffer—
has made the commitment to the
health, safety and well-being of all
employees a top priority.
“We understood that if our team
members felt safe, secure and sup-
ported by the organization, we
would be able to navigate through
anything that occurred throughout
the year,” he says.
From a business standpoint,
Thoukis says Foley Family Wines
already had a stronghold in the re-
tail and DTC markets, including
e-commerce. He points to the Foley
Food & Wine Society, which he de-
scribes as celebrating three of life’s
greatest passions: food, wine and
consumer experiences.
“In hindsight, this effort po-
sitioned Foley Family Wines ex-
tremely well to help offset the
challenges faced in the on-premise
channel for our business,” he says.
Looking toward the future,
Thoukis says his business mantra
is, “Make Foley Family Wines a
great place to work and get better
every day.”
“We have no aspirations of be-
coming the largest wine company
in the world,” he says. “However,
we strive to become the most effi-
cient and to ensure that our indus-
try partners and customers view
Foley Family Wines as the most
prepared, innovative, focused and
supportive luxury wine partner in
the industry.”
And it is for that efficiency,
innovation, focus and industry
FOLEY FAMILY WINES
support that Wine Enthusiast is
proud to honor Gerard Thoukis as
its Wine Executive of the Year.
—S.B.
CRISTIE NORMAN
WINE EDUCATOR OF THE YEAR
The Online Wine Course makes education fun
and approachable, while Norman continues to
be a resource for sommeliers.
Excited and knowledgeable
consumers are good for the
industry. Wine professionals
who have access to support
and education can generate this
sort of passion in their customers.
Those two principles are what
guided Cristie Norman to create
The Online Wine Course
and cofound The United
Sommeliers Foundation.
Norman became a certified
sommelier at the age of 21 and
joined the team at Spago in Beverly
Hills, California, that same year. It
was there that she started forming
connections and creating learning
opportunities with and between
other sommeliers.
“I saw that there was a lack of
community,” she says. “There were
different levels of people, and they
kind of worked independently.
I felt like that was a problem,
because you need people who are
better than you to taste with you
in order to improve. I wanted to
create a mechanism to improve
people’s tasting and improve
their skills as professionals.
And I attracted a lot of people.
People came out of the woodwork,
literally 100 miles north and south
or more.”
Seeing the value in and desire
for educational programs, Norman
created a series of YouTube videos
called “Adulting With Alcohol,”
110 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
“We want to give
everybody a chance
to learn about wine,
because there’s
wine for everybody.
It can be something
that’s inexpensive,
and people can love
that wine. Or it can
be really expensive.
Everybody has their
own wine journey.”
and then launched The Online
Wine Course.
The course was developed to
make wine fun and accessible. For
just under $150, participants have
access to four-hour course made
up of videos, worksheets, timed
quizzes and a final exam. It builds
students’ vocabulary, explains the
difference between certain wines,
how winemaking affects the final
product and basic varieties, and
then goes on to discuss the major
winemaking regions of the world,
as well as food and wine pairings.
“We want to give everybody
a chance to learn about wine,
because there’s wine for
everybody,” she says. “It can be
something that’s inexpensive, and
people can love that wine. Or it can
be really expensive. Everybody has
their own wine journey.”
This consumer-facing program
hasn’t kept her away from her
network in hospitality, though.
“When the pandemic hit, I was
the person people came to when
they lost their jobs, or when their
restaurants got closed, because I
was the person who would help
people find jobs,” she says. “I saw
firsthand how dedicated the somm
community could be, and I care
about our wine industry.”
That moment is what led to the
creation of The United Sommeliers
Foundation. Using money raised
through donations and auctions
held in conjunction with Acker
Wines, the organization helps
fund emergency grants to those
who are in financial crisis. Norman
also offered free education for a
limited time.
“I think we need to address
all of these different parts of the
industry and bolster the people of
the wine industry and make sure
they have resources to support
them,” she says. “And then also,
on the other side, we need to have
more consumers.”
For her commitment to making
wine accessible to all, and to
DOMINICK AZNAVOUR
supporting those in her industry
during unprecedented challenges,
Wine Enthusiast names Cristie
Norman Educator of the Year.
—Layla Schlack
 GREG BREWER
WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR
A Champion of the Sta. Rita Hills, his
expressive wines helped the rest of the world
take notice of the region.
For Greg Brewer, being named
Winemaker of the Year is primarily
vindication of the Sta. Rita Hills, as
the appellation is now known, the
Santa Barbara County region where
he’s made wine since 1991.
“It really is an acknowledge-
ment of the appellation in my eyes,”
says Brewer, who celebrated his
30th year as a winemaker and 25th
vintage of Brewer-Clifton in 2020.
“It’s really not me. It’s everyone
who has come before and everyone
who will come after. The Sta. Rita
Hills is my identity. It’s not where I
work. It’s ultimately who I am. This
shines a really beautiful light on
the efforts of everybody in the area.
We all should be celebrating in this
huge honor.”
Raised in Los Angeles, Brewer
went to University of California,
Santa Barbara, for college, and was
working as a French instructor
when he picked up a weekend gig in
the tasting room at Santa Barba-
ra Winery. He immediately realized
that wine would be his career path,
“When you really
commit to a
significant other or
vocation or pursuit,
there is something
very liberating
about that. There’s
contentment
and ease, and
confidence and
nourishment
comes with that.”
showcase single-vineyard bottlings
rather than regional blends.
Meanwhile, Brewer helped
start Melville Winery in 1999
and served as winemaker there
through the 2015 harvest. In 2017, Brewer’s fascination for the Sta. been clean and lucid enough to
two years after Clifton left the Rita Hills never wavered, and he’s warrant this attention globally,
brand, Brewer-Clifton was sold to found freedom in that devotion. then it’s just an acknowledgement
Jackson Family Wines. “When you really commit to of how special this unique stretch
That deal allowed Brewer to a significant other or vocation or of land truly is,” says Brewer. “I
stop his many consulting gigs pursuit, there is something very work hard, don’t get me wrong,

JEFFREY BRAVERMAN/JACKSON FAMILY WINES

and was soon working in the cellar.
In 1995, he cofounded Brewer-
Clifton with his friend Steve
Clifton, and focused on Pinot Noir
and Chardonnay from the hills
between Buellton and Lompoc,
which would eventually become the
Sta. Rita Hills appellation. Brewer-
Clifton quickly won accolades for
being one of the earliest brands to
around the Sta. Rita Hills and
again focus on the Brewer-Clifton
wines, which he makes in Lompoc.
Jackson Family Wines also invested
more in the appellation by planting
the Perilune Vineyard, and encour-
aged Brewer to continue mak-
ing his lean Chardonnays under
the Diatom label and cool-climate
Syrah under Ex Post Facto.
liberating about that,” he says.
“There’s contentment and ease,
and confidence and nourishment
comes with that.”
Brewer strives to quiet his
impact in the cellar as much as
possible in order to let terroir
speak loudest.
“I’m just transmitting this
place, and if that translation has
and I’m touched beyond measure
that I’m receiving this. But I truly
do see this as a celebration of the
Sta. Rita Hills.”
For his decades of showing
off the Sta. Rita Hills terroir and
impact bringing the region to the
national spotlight, Wine Enthusiast
recognizes Greg Brewer as its
Winemaker of the Year. —M.K.

112 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

VICTORIA JAMES
SOMMELIER/BEVERAGE DIRECTOR OF THE YEAR
The bestselling author takes a fresh approach
to pairings at New York City’s Cote while
working to support others in the industry.
“Growing up in restaurants, I often
felt like a lamb being thrown into a
den of wolves,” says Victoria James.
“It wasn’t always an easy place for a
young woman.”
That formative impression has
not only motivated James in her ca-
reer, but has also inspired her to
make the wine world more welcom-
ing overall. She’s worked in res-
taurants since she was 13 years old
and became a certified sommelier
at age 21. After working in some of
New York City’s most exalted res-
taurants, she helped open Cote, a
wine-driven Korean steakhouse,
where she’s a partner, in 2017. A
new location in Miami’s Design Dis-
trict is slated to open this month.
“Victoria is one of the most pas-
sionate and motivated young som-
meliers I have ever seen,” says Rajat
Parr, the accomplished sommelier
and winemaker. “She is insightful
and thoughtful and gives back an
extraordinary amount of her time
and energy to build community.”
James recognizes that being a
sommelier doesn’t exclusively mean
selling wine to restaurant patrons.
“We all have to constantly be
evolving in order to stay relevant and
better serve our community,” she
says. “I just feel that if I focus solely
on selling wine in a restaurant, I’m
limiting myself and the potential to
bring joy to a much wider audience.”
Her two books have helped
114 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
“There is always
someone who
needs help,
someone who has
had it worse than
you, and if we aren’t
always looking
around at who
needs us,
we will all become Katie Jackson and Miguel Torres
lost leaders.”
reach that wider audience. Drink
Pink expanded the market for and
improved public perception of rosé
on its release in 2017. In March
2020, she published a memoir,
Wine Girl, which was a bestseller in Wine Empowered has opened the “Wherever you are in your ca-
the U.S., UK and Canada. It’s also door for women and minorities to reer path, you can always find
nominated for a Goodreads Choice get the education and access essen- someone else to lift up,” she says.
Award, and there are talks under- tial to building a career in wine,” “There is always someone who
way to turn it into a TV series. says sommelier and blogger Shakera needs help, someone who has had it
She’s been a strong advocate Jones. “In addition to that, she’s on worse than you, and if we aren’t al-
against mistreatment and abuse the floor, every day, with her team, ways looking around at who needs
in the wine world, recently showcasing the true meaning and us, we will all become lost leaders.”
speaking out against the Court of spirit of hospitality. Her knowledge For being not only an influen-
Master Sommeliers. In 2019, she and approachable way of explaining tial restaurant wine director, but ALICE PRENAT/PORTRAIT MADAME
cofounded Wine Empowered, an wines and regions to guests makes an author, entrepreneur, ambassa-
organization that seeks to diversify novices and experienced enthusiasts dor, mentor and advocate for equi-
the hospitality industry by giving alike eager to explore more.” table opportunities within the wine
tuition-free education to BIPOC Acknowledging the influence of world, Wine Enthusiast recognizes
and white women.  mentors like Rita Jammet, Aileen Victoria James as its Sommelier/
“Victoria has been a tireless Robbins and Laura Maniec-Fiorvanti, Beverage Director of the Year.
champion for women, and through James looks to pay it forward. —Nils Bernstein
MIGUEL LUNA
VITICULTURIST OF THE YEAR
When he’s not managing vineyards for premier
Napa Valley producers, Luna mentors other
Mexican-Americans in the wine world.
Born in Mexico, Miguel Luna
came to the Napa Valley at age 13.
His father, Esteban, was an es-
tablished vineyard worker, having
come to the region for seasonal
work in 1968.
Now 38 and a father himself,
Luna worked his first harvest at 14,
removing leaves out of bins picked
by his father. Once he turned 16,
he did vineyard work on weekends
and summers.
“And I hated it,” he remembers.
Two years later, out of high
school, he says he wasn’t yet ma-
ture enough for college so he kept
working. He helped his parents put
a younger sibling through college,
unmoored and unsure of what he
wanted to do.
Soccer had always been a pas-
sion of his, and that’s how he met
his now-wife, Cassandra Grassi,
whose family had a small vineyard
in Stags Leap District. Grassi en-
couraged Luna to go back into wine,
highlighting classes in the Napa
Valley College schedule until he
agreed to go.
For five years he attended
junior college and worked harvests
at Pahlmeyer, Dana Estates and
Atelier Melka.
“You cannot
separate
grapegrowing
from making
wine. Having good
knowledge of how
the winemaking
process works
makes better wine;
you need to know
what the impact
of every decision is
going to be.”
then traveling to Bordeaux for har-
vest at Château de Fieuzal.
Luna joined Silverado Farming
Company full-time in 2015 and in
2017 was made a partner. grapes, mostly within the Napa But what makes Luna such an
Today, Luna mentors what he Valley. Its clients include Melka exceptional viticulturalist is his
sees as younger versions of him- Estates, Vineyard 29, Brand Napa deep understanding of winemaking.
self, encouraging them to pursue Valley, Dana Estates, Lail Vine- “You cannot separate grape-
formal education. yards, Black Sears, and Bart and growing from making wine,” he
“As a Mexican-American it is Daphne Araujo. notes. “Having good knowledge of
hard to be taken seriously without Luna is working hard to make his how the winemaking process works
a degree,” he says. “I tell them how vineyards herbicide-free, concerned makes better wine; you need to
important it is. I’ve now mentored not just about the health of the soils, know what the impact of every de-
two guys whose dads worked for but the health of his employees. cision is going to be.”
Silverado Farming and they have “I like old vineyards,” Luna says. In recognition of his mentor-
SUZANNE BECKER BRONK

His goals became to attend
University of California, Davis,
and work a harvest in France. He
achieved both, earning a degree in
viticulture and enology in 2014 and
both graduated from Davis.”
Silverado employs 90 full-
time workers and 300 to 400 sea-
sonal workers every year to farm
more than 600 acres of wine
“I look for ways to keep vines going
as long as possible and to minimize
our impact on the environment with
holistic farming. You need healthier
soils to get healthier vines.”
ship and commitment to the high-
est level of grape growing, Wine
Enthusiast names Miguel Luna as
its Viticulturalist of the Year.
—Virginie Boone

116 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

MICHAEL DAVID WINERY
AMERICAN WINERY OF THE YEAR
With delicious and accessible wines and
a lighthearted approach to labeling, this
California powerhouse continues to grow.
The year 2020 has been one of
milestones for Michael David Win-
ery. The sixth-generation Lodi, Cal-
ifornia producer, led by brothers
Michael and David Phillips, finished
an ambitious winery expansion and
visitor experience overhaul, saw its
business grow by 12% and donat-
ed $100,000 to fund virus research
at the University of California, San-
ta Cruz in conjunction with a new
wine project, Going Viral.
Navigating Covid-19 restric-
tions to maintain momentum in its
direct sales and hospitality opera-
tions, the business also completed
a transformation of its brand lineup
and tripled the size of its produc-
tion facilities. The dramatic tran-
sition began in 2018 when it sold
Seven Deadly Zins, the number-one
selling Zinfandel brand in America,
to The Wine Group.
The current reinvigoration is
part of a 36-year legacy of inno-
vation, creativity, leadership in
promoting Lodi as a quality grape-
growing appellation and foresight in
sustainable farming—not to men-
tion irreverent humor in marketing.
Growing up as the fifth genera-
tion on their family farm in the Cal-
ifornia Delta, Michael and David
both went to the University of Cal-
ifornia, Davis. Michael, who is 10
years older, studied science, while
David majored in international
business.
118 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
The Freakshow
brand, priced
around $20 a
bottle, is now
Michael David’s
biggest seller
in stores...
Earthquake, Petite
Petit, Inkblot,
Rapture, Lust,
Politically Correct
and 6th Sense
continue the
attention-getting
branding.
Michael started the family win-
ery in 1984, when wine grapes were
just one of many crops grown in
Lodi, and only a handful of wineries
existed. David joined in 1989.
Today, Michael is CEO and co-
owner with David, who is president
and, in his words, “number one
cheerleader.” Michael’s son,
Kevin, is vice president of opera-
tions, and his daughter, Melissa
Phillips-Stroud, is vice president
of sales and marketing. They all
give a lot of credit to their key staff
members, including Director of
Wine Operations Adam Mettler,
who won the Wine Star Award for
Winemaker of the Year in 2018.
Michael says that Consulting
Winemaker Barry Gnekow was
instrumental in developing the
Michael David style of wine,
which is ripe and bold, showing
ample oak flavor without being
extreme. David describes their
wines as balanced.
“I like that middle path, as in
Buddhism, taking life not too ex-
treme in either direction,” says Da-
vid. “People can take our wine to a
party and everyone’s going to like it.”
The Freakshow brand, priced
around $20 a bottle, is now
Michael David’s biggest seller in
stores and the one poised for the
most growth. Earthquake, Petite
Petit, Inkblot, Rapture, Lust,
Politically Correct and 6th Sense
continue the attention-getting
branding, while the recently
repackaged Michael David line is
styled more for fine dining.
While the brands are provoca-
tive, the family itself remains warm
and welcoming.
“They advocate for their neigh-
bors in Lodi, and their sense of
community and sense of place
comes through in their wines,” says
Laura Glenn, director of supplier
relations for Empire Distributors in
North Carolina. “They want to en-
gage with not just the wine drinker,
but the world.”
Wine Enthusiast is proud to
honor the Michael David Winery as
American Winery of the Year, rec-
MICHAEL DAVID WINERY
ognizing the Phillips family’s suc-
cesses and outstanding service to
consumers, the wine trade and
their winegrowing community in
Lodi. —J.G.
DOMAINES PAUL MAS
EUROPEAN WINERY OF THE YEAR
This Languedoc producer helped put the
region on the map, and it consistently
provides quality at a range of price points.
For Jean-Claude Mas, Domaine Paul
Mas’ founder and owner, working in
the wine industry has always been a
part of his destiny, and his passion.
He recalls escaping from his mother
during harvest as a toddler, running
a mile and a half through the vine-
yard to find his grandfather in the
cellar. That memory is formative to
Mas and would be the first of many
around his love of wine.
Based in the Languedoc region
in the south of France, in the town
of Pézenas, the Mas family has
wine experience dating back to
1892. That’s when Mas’s great-
grandfather, Auguste Mas, acquired
the first plot of family vines.
Subsequent generations only
continued to grow the family’s
vineyard holdings.
In 1987, Mas received around 86
acres of vineyards from his father,
Paul Mas, to forge his own path.
Thirteen years later, Mas found-
ed Domaines Paul Mas, named in
honor of his father. Combining his
passion for his family’s history, the
wines of his native region and his
education in marketing and eco-
nomics, he aimed to create a brand
of uniquely personal yet distinc-
tively Languedoc-spirited bot-
tlings, while also spreading regional
awareness around the globe as well
as bringing the family name into a
new echelon of the wine world.
“I wanted to elevate my fa-
120 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
“We produce some
of the best wines
in the world with a
great respect to our
environment.”
—Jean-Claude Mas
ther’s viticulteur legacy to authen-
tic vigneron status while cultivating
this inherited intuitive respect for
my environment,” says Mas. “Vine-
yards have always been part of the
Languedoc—the diversity of soil,
elevation and the climatic condi-
tions are all the elements necessary
to bring to optimum maturity the
grapes need while letting express
their character and origin.”
Today, after 20 years in busi-
ness, it’s clear that he succeeded in
his mission. Domaines Paul Mas is
now a powerhouse producer known
around the world. The company’s
portfolio currently boasts 15 cha-
teaux and more than 20 brands,
with a total annual production of
around 22 million bottles that are
distributed to 71 countries.
The family now owns 2,100
acres of vineyards across the
Languedoc region, with another
3,700 contracted, for a total
of 5,800 acres of vines. Of the
family’s vineyard holdings, 60%
are certified Agriculture Biologique
(AB), and 80% are certified Terra
Vitis and farmed organically, with
the intent to be 100% organic
within a couple of years.
“As it comes to my region, it is
now time for the world to recognize
it as one of the most beautiful, and
where we produce some of the best
wines in the world with a great re-
spect to our environment,” he says.
While growth has been
substantial over the past two
decades, an intimate, family-
minded and quality-driven ethos
remains at the core of the company.
Mas makes it a point to visit each
estate every week to manage them
and maintain the winery’s spirit,
culture and philosophy.
“The biggest challenge is pro-
ducing 20 million bottles with the
same attention as when I started
with 10,000 bottles,” he says.
Regardless of product line or
price, overall quality and a con-
sistent sense of style prevails
throughout the portfolio, from the
lighthearted Arrogant Frog and the
accessible yet distinctive Côté Mas
wines, to premium selections such
as Château Lauriga, Château Crès
Ricards, Domaine du Silène and
Clos Astélia, the latest winery jew-
el in the Domaines Paul Mas crown
named for Jean-Claude’s daughters.
It is for the reliability and qual-
ity across a range of products with
a unique sense of style and expres-
DOMAINES PAUL MAS
sion of the Languedoc spirit that
Wine Enthusiast names Domaines
Paul Mas its European Winery of
the Year. —Lauren Buzzeo
© 2020 Imported by Fetzer Vineyards, Hopland, Mendocino CO., CA
CASILLERO DEL DIABLO
NEW WORLD WINERY OF THE YEAR
Making high-quality Chilean wine widely
available, this producer honors its history
and heritage.
Roughly translated as “the devil’s
cellar,” Chilean wine producer Casil-
lero del Diablo derives its name from
a company legend. The story goes
that wine frequently went missing
from the cellar. To scare off thieves,
founder Don Melchor de Concha y
Toro spread a rumor that the devil
lived down there.
Today, many wines are still aged
in those same caves in the Maipo
Valley, which guests can tour dur-
ing visits to Concha y Toro, which
owns Casillero del Diablo, about an
hour outside of Santiago.
The value-driven label has
evolved since its inception in 1963,
with a portfolio rooted in the ad-
venturous nature of Chilean wine.
Casillero del Diablo has vineyards
throughout Chile’s geographically
diverse areas, in the Valle Central,
Maipo Valley, Rapel Valley, and
Limarí Valley regions. Marcelo Papa,
veteran winemaker and technical di-
rector for Concha y Toro, first worked
with Casillero del Diablo in 1998.
“During this time, I have wit-
nessed the incredible evolution and
growth of the brand,” says Papa.
“This recognition makes me feel
proud and reflects the extraordi-
nary work that we have done to-
“To me, Casillero
del Diablo is
Chile. It is the
best ambassador
we can have in
the world.”
— Sebastián
Rodríguez
sales of its affordable and quality
wines to consumers in more than
140 countries.
“To me, Casillero del Diab-
lo is Chile,” says Winemaker Se-
bastián Rodríguez. “It is the best
ambassador we can have in the
world.”
Adding to the brand’s cur-
rent appeal is the success of its
much-heralded 2018 vintage. The ers with a challenge to explore the ers to Chilean wine to appreciate
complex, expressive reds include wines through guided blind tastings. the incredible quality, variety and
a Cabernet Sauvignon, which was A new direct-to-customer sales flavor afforded by wines from Chile.
Casillero del Diablo’s inaugural bot- model and a stellar vintage have Its success symbolizes the poten-
tling during the 1966 vintage. contributed to a renewed interest tial of the category and inspires us
“Our wines faithfully reflect the in the brand’s wines and the Chil- to continue to expand and enhance
expression of each of our varieties,” ean wine category at large. the ways we bring these remarkable
says Rodríguez. “It is a tremendous honor to wines to consumers.”
In an online video series titled see Casillero del Diablo recognized For its commitment to making
“Challenge Your Senses,” Concha with such a significant commen- Chilean wines accessible to the
CASILLERO DEL DIABLO

gether over the past decades.”
In recent years, the internation-
al brand—imported to the U.S. by
Fetzer Vineyard—has invested in
a relaunch that has reinvigorated
y Toro Head Sommelier Massimo
Leonori guides viewers through the
2018 vintage, explaining the ideal
conditions that led to the “near per-
fect” reds, and engaging consum-
dation,” says Giancarlo Bianchetti,
CEO of Fetzer Vineyards. “Casillero
del Diablo’s well-developed market
presence in the U.S. and globally
has long set the stage for newcom-
world, and its innovation without
losing tradition, Wine Enthusiast
names Casillero del Diablo its
New World Winery of the Year.
—Shelby Vittek

122 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

TRENTINO, ITALY
WINE REGION OF THE YEAR
With top-tier sparkling wines gaining
international acclaim, this high-altitude
appellation offers a variety of styles.
Making up the southern half of
the Trentino-Alto Adige region in
northern Italy, the Trentino prov-
ince makes world-class wines.
About an hour’s drive from Verona
and surrounded by the majestic
Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heri-
tage site, it’s one of the most beau-
tiful areas in the country.
Celebrated for its pristine ski
slopes, breathtaking hiking trails,
cycling routes and dramatic scenery,
Trentino is also one of the most dy-
namic, multifaceted wine-producing
areas in Italy. It makes quality,
terroir-driven wines from both in-
ternational and regional grapes, as
well as one of the country’s most re-
nowned bottle-fermented sparklers.
Counting 25,232 acres of vines,
the province accounts for just un-
der 2% of the nation’s vineyard
area. Despite its relatively small
size, the U.S. is Trentino’s num-
ber one export market, represent-
ing 51% of the territory’s exports in
terms of value.
White grapes dominate its wine
scene. Pinot Grigio is the leader,
comprising 34% of overall grape
production followed by Chardon-
nay at 26% and Müller-Thurgau
at 10%. Other white varieties in-
clude Sauvignon, Pinot Bianco and
Nosiola. For red wine production,
Teroldego, Merlot, Marzemino and
Pinot Nero are the main grapes
followed by Schiava, Lagrein and
Cabernet Sauvignon.
124 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
Currently, 12%
of Trentino’s
vineyards are
certified organic.
The area has
recently become
one of the leaders
in Italy when it
comes to using
integrated farming
methods.
These varieties form the back-
bone of the region’s principal
denomination, Trentino Denomin-
azione di Origine Controllata (DOC).
Thanks to the influence of the near-
by mountains, Trentino’s still wines
boast freshness and finesse.
The province is also home to
Trento DOC, a denomination en-
tirely devoted to the production
of bottle-fermented sparklers.
Fragrant, savory and loaded with
elegance, these wines are credited
as Italy’s first metodo classico bot-
tlings. Its roots date back to the
early 1900s when pioneer Giulio
Ferrari realized the area’s extra-
ordinary potential for sparkling
wine production and began culti-
vating Chardonnay.
Today, the main grapes in this
mountain sparkler are Chardonnay
and Pinot Nero, although Pinot Bi-
anco and Pinot Meunier can also be
used. Chardonnay lends fragrance
and longevity while Pinot Nero pro-
vides structure and finesse.
A DOC-regulated wine since
1993, 57 metodo classico pro-
ducers are part of the Istituto
Trentodoc and use the collec-
tive Trentodoc trademark. These
wines are defined, in part, by their
unique growing area.
On midmountain slopes 656–
2,952 feet above sea level, the
pure mountain air, high-altitude
vineyards and plenty of sunlight
generate hot days and cool nights
during the growing season that
encourage optimum grape ripening.
This ideal maturation gener-
ates enticing aromas, pronounced
flavors and bright acidity. Even
though mandatory aging on the lees
ranges from 15 months for Brut,
24 months for Millesimato and 36
months for Riserva, nearly all pro-
ducers age their wines for far lon-
ger, even up to 10 years.
Currently, 12% of Trentino’s
vineyards are certified organic.
The area has recently become
one of the leaders in Italy when
it comes to using integrated
farming methods. To protect
the environment, farmers and
consumers, most of Trentino’s
growers and wineries have adopted
this approach and limit the use
of chemical treatments in the
vineyards as much as possible.
In 2016, the Consorzio Vini
del Trentino embarked on the
certification process for integrated
grape production regulated under
the Integrated Production National
Quality System (SQNPI). In 2019,
over 90% of Trentino’s grape
production was certified.
For its long history of quality
wines, recent achievements and
commitment to sustainability,
Wine Enthusiast is proud to
ALICE RUSSOLO
recognize Trentino as its Wine
Region of the Year. —Kerin O’Keefe
 EXPERIENCE 90 POINT WINES FROM
A SONOMA COUNTY PIONEER

92
VINTAGE 2019
90
VINTAGE 2019
EDITOR’S CHOICE WINE ENTHUSIAST
WINE ENTHUSIAST NOVEMBER 2020
AUGUST 2020
©2020 RODNEY STRONG VINEYARDS, HEALDSBURG, CA

Rod Strong was one of the first to recognize and promote Sonoma County’s diversity as a key attribute. We continue to
honor Rod’s spirit of innovation, passion and community building through our winemaking and winegrowing practices today.

committed to community since 1959

RODNEYSTRONG.COM
CORY RELLAS
INNOVATOR OF THE YEAR
The cofounder and CEO of delivery service
Drizly has seen rapid growth and changed the
way Americans drink.
Online ordering for things like
pizza and groceries started in the
mid-1990s, and by the 2010s, on-
line delivery systems had left the
old-fashioned phone call in the
dust. But something had always
been missing: an equally savvy
means of adding the perfect pair-
ing into the mix.
In 2012, Cory Rellas, along with
cofounders Nick Rellas, Spencer
Frazier and Justin Robinson,
brought online alcohol delivery
service Drizly to life.
With it, in just a few taps, you
can pair your favorite pie with that
Lambrusco you’ve been eyeing at
the local wine shop without ever
setting foot outside.
Since its launch, with Rellas
at the helm, Drizly has grown to
partner with more than 3,500 re-
tailers across 27 states and Wash-
ington, D.C.
“The initial vision was much
more about finding the intersec-
tion of technology within a regulat-
ed industry rather than ‘delivery’
or ‘on-demand,’ ” he says. “It’s an
incredible and important industry,
and we’re excited to build a compa-
ny that can be there for people and
the moments that matter.”
Rellas adds that the experience
benefits brands, wholesalers, re-
tailers and the consumer in one
fell swoop.
Forward thinking by him and
126 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
“We are focused on
providing a fun, easy
and personalized
experience for
consumers, and as
we continue to be
successful there,
we have larger goals
to build technology
for retailers and
the supply chain to
better inform their
businesses.”
his team has served as a significant
contributor to this growth with no
signs of slowing down in the fu-
ture. Though the company is still
in its early days, projections for
the next few years are as promis-
ing as ever, compounded by a surge
in business brought on by the rip-
ple effects of the pandemic. To wit,
Drizly has grown 350% over the
course of 2020.
Keeping up with a rapidly
changing landscape has proven
fruitful: This past April alone
showed figures eight times higher
than those of April 2019, a rising
tide lifting all boats.
“We’ve worked hard with our
partner retailers to make sure they
could stay open for business in
a time where many did not leave
their home, and [to] take the
proper communication and health
guidance to make sure drivers and
consumers were protected during
the course of delivery.”
Rellas foresees Drizly gracefully
riding the wave into the future.
“Thirty billion dollars of alcohol
products annually are moving online
in the next five years, and those that
are generating value for the con-
sumer are most poised to benefit,”
he says. “We are focused on provid-
ing a fun, easy and personalized ex-
perience for consumers, and as we
continue to be successful there, we
have larger goals to build technology
for retailers and the supply chain to
better inform their businesses.”
In his personal life, as in his
work, Rellas is on a perpetual quest
to expand his knowledge without
losing sight of the fun side of
things, and his go-to order of late is
no exception.
“Lately, I’ve been trying Italian
wines and learning about the var-
ious grapes,” he says. “That said,
I’m almost always including a new
beer within the cart for random
occasions.”
That spirit of exploration driv-
ing growth and accessibility across
DAVE SHEPARD
the industry that makes Cory Rellas
Wine Enthusiast’s Innovator of the
Year. —Céline Bossart
 TA S T E WO RT H
A

D I S C OV E R I N G

As the year draws to a close, it’s time to look toward a new year, full of new discoveries.
Like the exceptional flavors of The Balvenie Caribbean Cask 14 Year Old, a Single Malt
Scotch finished in rum casks for a warm, lingering finish. It’s a taste every whisky lover
should experience, or discover all over again.

HANDCRAFTED TO BE ENJOYED RESPONSIBLY. THE BALVENIE SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY, 43% ALC./VOL. ©2020 IMPORTED BY WILLIAM GRANT & SONS, INC. NEW YORK, NY.
UNCLE NEAREST
PREMIUM WHISKEY
SPIRIT BRAND OF THE YEAR
Named after the enslaved man who taught
Jack Daniel how to distill, this brand has found
growth in authenticity.
The story of Nearest Green, a Ten-
nessee whiskey brand located in
Shelbyville, about an hour out-
side of Nashville, begins with CEO
Fawn Weaver.
A charismatic author and en-
trepreneur, Weaver’s interest was
drawn by an article in the New York
Times that focused on the origin
story of American whiskey legend
Jack Daniel.
That article led her to uncover
Nearest Green, the person. Nathan
(a k a Nearest) Green was an en-
slaved Black man who distilled
whiskey beginning as early as the
1850s, noted for teaching a young
Jack Daniel the craft of distillation
and eventually becoming a men-
tor to him.
Weaver began a journey to
uncover the history of “Uncle
Nearest,” and ultimately built a
whiskey brand around his legacy.
Uncle Nearest Premium Whis-
key launched in July 2017. It com-
memorates the first Black master
distiller on record, posthumously
anointed by Jack Daniel’s Tennes-
see Whiskey.
Since its release, Uncle Nearest
has become the fastest-growing
independent premium American
whiskey brand in U.S. history,
128 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
“I consider
Tennessee whiskey
to be authentically
American, and
there was always an
African-American
influence. There’s
no other whiskey
that not only gives
us credit, but
makes us part of
the story.”
—Fawn Weaver
oversee whiskey production for museum, the world’s longest bar, a
Uncle Nearest. Meanwhile, Victoria mini golf course and a concert pavil-
with 100% growth each quarter Eady Butler, the great-great- ion are part of the long-term plans.
to date, and selling 60,000 cases granddaughter of Nearest Green, “I consider Tennessee whis-
in 2019. Even in an extraordinarily signed on as Master Blender. key to be authentically American,
difficult year for the spirits In September 2019, Uncle and there was always an African-
industry, the company blew past Nearest opened its own facility. American influence,” Weaver says.
its 2020 sales projections. While the whiskey currently is “There’s no other whiskey that not
The brand has found a devot- sourced from two other distilleries only gives us credit, but makes us
ed fan base, not just because of the in Tennessee, the brand has been part of the story.”
story, but because of the liquid in co-distilling and laying down its For building a brand that has
the bottles, and the people behind own barrels since 2017, with plans connected deeply with consum-
the liquid. to begin distillation on site in late ers, leading to rapid growth even
Sherrie Moore, a member of summer 2021. during one of the most challenging
Jack Daniel’s family, who had spent The distillery and visitors cen- economic cycles in recent history,
STACY PRESTON
more than three decades as head ter are just the first stage of building Uncle Nearest is Wine Enthusiast’s
of whiskey production there, of- what Weaver calls “the Disneyland Spirit Brand of the Year.
fered to come out of retirement to of distilleries.” A Tennessee whiskey —Kara Newman
QUINTESSENTIAL WINES
IMPORTER OF THE YEAR
Committed to representing family-owned
producers, this business continues to add
employees in trying times.
When father-and-son team Steve
Sr. and Dennis Kreps founded
Quintessential Wines in 2002,
they intentionally built their
business around what was then a
mold-breaking concept: Their vi-
sion was to represent wineries all
over world, not just from one or
two countries, as was common for
many successful importers at the
time. Many contemporaries were
skeptical of their business model,
but the Krepses persisted.
“When we saw the wine busi-
ness becoming more and more
corporate, we identified a need to
help family-owned wineries com-
pete, grow and flourish in the U.S.
market,” says Dennis.
Eighteen years later, the fami-
ly-owned and -operated business,
headquartered in Napa, has grown
to more than 70 employees, in-
cluding Steve Jr., who joined the
family business in 2005. But one
thing that hasn’t changed is its
commitment to supporting like-
minded family-owned businesses.
“Our main goal is to be
a steward for family-owned
wineries,” says Dennis. “We
look for good people with a long
term, multigenerational approach
to their business.”
Quintessential Wines
currently represents more than
45 producers in 12 different
countries, spanning a wide
130 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
“The key to our
success has always
been driven by
investing in self-
motivated, honest,
hardworking
team members
who believe in our
portfolio and the
unique niche we
have carved out.”
—Dennis Kreps
range of price, geography and
style. The company’s portfolio
includes the highly rated wines
from Attilio Ghisolfi in Piedmont,
Quinto do Vallado in the Douro
Valley, Pascual Toso in Argentina,
Simonsig in South Africa, as well
as the iconic wines of Georges
Duboeuf in Beaujolais, just to
name a few. All are family-owned
and family-operated wineries.
Even during a year that has
presented challenges for many
businesses in the wine industry,
Quintessential has continued
to invest in its team—both
the employees and the family
of wineries they import and
distribute.
In August, Quintessential
acquired all four U.S.-produced
From left to right: Dennis Kreps, Steve Kreps Sr., Steve Kreps Jr.
brands from Australia-based
Accolade Wines: Geyser Peak,
Atlas Peak, Outlot and XYZin.
“Our portfolio was missing
two major categories: New
Zealand and a stronger balance of
domestic versus imported wines,”
says Dennis. “Accolade provided
an answer to both opportunities.”
 Plans are in place to
reinvigorate the brands.
“We plan to reestablish each as
market leaders in their respective
categories,” says Dennis, noting
that he is especially enthusiastic
about Atlas Peak and Geyser
Peak, one of California’s historic
wineries founded in 1880. “They
are both brands that over-deliver
on quality to price in market.”
The acquisition has enabled
Quintessential to add at least
eight new positions during a
time of high unemployment
nationwide.
“The challenges of 2020 mo-
tivated us to grow. It has been a
very tough year but it encouraged
us to take an aggressive and pro-
active approach,” says Dennis.
“The key to our success has al-
ways been driven by investing in
self-motivated, honest, hardwork-
ing team members who believe
in our portfolio and the unique
niche we have carved out in the
wine industry.”
That dedication to hard work,
STRAUSS PEYTON
following convictions and growth
is why Wine Enthusiast is proud
to name Quintessential Wines its
Importer of the Year. —S.V.
 ®
VINOVIEW
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E N J OY T H E B E AU T Y
O F YO U R L A B E L S

VINOVIEW
BY WINE ENTHUSIAST
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ALBERTSONS
RETAILER OF THE YEAR
The massive grocery chain takes a small-
shop approach to wine, incorporating local
offerings and knowledgeable staff.
“If you look at a lot of our wine,
beer and spirits sets, you would
not think we are a really large
company,” says Curtis Mann,
MW, group vice president, alcohol,
at Albertsons.
Indeed, Albertsons, which in-
cludes Safeway, Haggen, Shaw’s
and numerous other grocery stores,
puts a strong emphasis on regional
identity and local preferences in its
wine selection, from Paso Robles-
heavy offerings in southern Califor-
nia to Washington-centric bottle
choices in Seattle. This also holds
true for spirits and beer.
“In Maryland, [we’ve] got a
great selection of Dogfish Head,”
Mann says. “Out in Portland,
[Oregon,] we have some of the best
selections of four pack, 16.9-ounce
beers. In Northern California, we’ve
got great selections of hazy IPAs.”
Albertsons gives local stores
considerable autonomy in what
they offer. That knowledge and
expertise of the local beverage
scene is then leveraged nationally
to ride and drive trends.
Albertsons’ beginnings date all
the way back to 1860, when one
of its brands opened its first store
“There’s been
a trade up even
further. I think
it’s because
people are dining
at home more,
and they want to
have a really nice
experience. They
are looking to us to
provide that nice
experience and
those nice bottles
of wine.”
—Curtis Mann, MW
Members of the Albertsons corporate buying team and the Intermountain Division, from left to
right: Chris La Fata, David Spohr, Curtis Mann, MW, and Matt Wirth
different brands in 33 states and ed, marquee destination wine, beer us to provide that nice experience
Washington, D.C. and spirits shop,” Mann says. and those nice bottles of wine.”
Wine departments are often set Throughout the Covid-19 Albertsons succeeds here, too,
up as stores within a store, with pandemic, with wine sales on by carefully curating selections at
many locations offering dedicated the rise, Albertsons has not just every price point, whether it is a
cellars for top-end wines, beverage given consumers choices when it $10 Spanish red or a $200 Napa
stewards to guide selections and comes to wine, beer and spirits, Valley Cabernet.
on-site tastings where allowed. A but has provided high-quality “We have a curated set,” Mann
considerable percentage of staff options across price tiers, with says. “We can’t take everything. If
has formal training, which allows premiumization increasing to an customers come into our stores,
them to understand and anticipate extent Mann calls “shocking.” they know we’ve tasted through all
JERRY SMART/ALBERTSONS

in Portland, Maine. In 2015, the
company merged with Safeway
to become one of the largest
food and wine retailers in the
country, owning and operating
2,200 supermarkets across 20
customer needs at a high level.
When people come to Albertsons
stores, it’s increasingly because of
the wine selection.
“We’re becoming less of a gro-
cery selection and more of a curat-
“There’s been a trade up even
further,” he says of wine buying
during the pandemic. “I think it’s
because people are dining at home
more, and they want to have a really
nice experience. They are looking to
of these products.”
For its excellence bringing the
world of wine, beer and spirits to
grocery shoppers, Albertsons is our
2020 Retailer of the Year.
—Sean P. Sullivan

132 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 2 1 S T A N N U A L W I N E S TA R A W A R D W I N N E R S

Honoring Luminaries of the Beverage Alcohol Industry

Winners will be honored at our virtual black-tie gala: January 26 - 28, 2021 at 1 PM EST daily.

Register To Attend:
www.WineEnthusiastWineStarAwards2021Event.com
Tickets are complimentary.

Executive Vice President, Scheid Family Wines; Partner, Republic National Distributing Company
Chairperson, Wine Market Council

Partner / Enologist, Eberle Winery CMO, Foley Family Wines Founder, Black Wine Professionals
Wine Writer, Educator and Consultant

Photocredits: Dominick Aznavour, Jeffery Braverman, Suzanne Becker Bronk, Jenna Dosch, Eberle Winery, Elisabeth Fall, fallfoto, Justin T Gellerson,
Instituto Trento Doc, Strauss Peyton Photography, Alice Prenat for Portrait Madame, Stacy Preston, Dave Shepard and Jerry Smart.
 INNOVATOR OF THE YEAR
CORY RELLAS
CEO and Cofounder, Drizly
SOMMELIER / WINE
DIRECTOR OF THE YEAR
VICTORIA JAMES
Head Sommelier, Beverage Director
and Partner, Cote
WINE EDUCATOR OF THE YEAR
CRISTIE NORMAN
Founder / CEO, The Online Wine Course
Cofounder/President, The United
Sommeliers Foundation

AMERICAN WINERY EUROPEAN WINERY NEW WORLD WINERY

OF THE YEAR OF THE YEAR OF THE YEAR
MICHAEL DAVID WINERY DOMAINES PAUL MAS CASILLERO DEL DIABLO
Lodi, CA Languedoc, France Chile

IMPORTER OF THE YEAR RETAILER OF THE YEAR WINE REGION OF THE YEAR
QUINTESSENTIAL WINES ALBERTSONS TRENTINO, ITALY

WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR VITICULTURIST OF THE YEAR SPIRIT BRAND / DISTILLER

GREG BREWER MIGUEL LUNA OF THE YEAR
Cofounder and Winemaker, Brewer-Clifton Partner, Silverado Farming Company UNCLE NEAREST / NEAREST GREEN
Shelbyville, TN
Drinks
These classic cocktails
lend themselves to
infinite variations, so
mix it up with whatever
you’ve got on hand.

Gone A 
good cocktail is meant
to be an invitation to
unwind, but some recipes
are jaw-clenchingly
complicated: precise
measurements of this particular spirit or
those exact bitters. If you don’t have the
right bottle readily available, you can’t
make the drink at all. It makes you want to
throw up your hands and walk away.
Luckily, some drinks are made with a
freer structure. They lend themselves to
riffing and breezy improvisation.
Tristan Willey made his name at
high-end New York City bars like Booker
& Dax and The Long Island Bar, where he
discovered that drinks like Martinis and
Manhattans work well when the rules
are relaxed.
By playing with
proportions, for example,
what ends up in the glass
“wasn’t a recipe that existed in
my brain, but it works great,” he says.
“I’ve fallen in love with this concept, the
total looseness of it.”
Prefer a drink stronger, or perhaps
sweeter? Do it. Have rum instead of
whiskey? That’s fine. Life is complicated
enough. Relax. Exhale. The drinks that
follow are as forgiving as can be.

136 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

BY MARTINI
KARA Many bartenders lay claim to a perfect version of this classic, but it’s a drink with
NEWMAN wide range. Add more vermouth, or less. Use gin or vodka. Dash in orange bitters
or not. Try a splash of liqueur, or rinse the glass with absinthe or Chartreuse.
P H OTOS BY “I love a Martini of any ratio, it turns out,” says Willey, who recently cofounded
K AT R I N Good Vodka. “I go up to my stirring glass and pour in amounts, and it’s always
BJÖRK nearby what I want. It keeps me from having to do anything agonizing about the
drink. I can just enjoy.”
Below is Willey’s go-to recipe, but he encourages that it be used as just a
starting point. Here are a few ways to change it up:

) Try it with equal parts gin and vermouth.

) Flip proportions to 2 ounces vermouth and 1 ounce gin for an Inverse Martini.

) Either some or all of the gin can be swapped for vodka.

) The vermouth is open to interpretation. Try dry, blanc, a wine-based apéritif

like Lillet or Cocchi Americano, dry Sherry or saké.

) Play with garnishes. Try caper berries, olives or cocktail onions.

Agony-Free Martini
Courtesy Tristan Willey,
cofounder, Good Vodka,
New York City

2 ounces London dry gin

1 ounce dry vermouth
Lemon twist, for garnish

In mixing glass filled

with ice, stir gin and
vermouth. Strain into
chilled coupe glass. Gar-
nish with lemon twist.

WINEMAG.COM | 137
NEGRONI
Three ingredients in equal parts make up the
classic recipe of this ruby-hued Italian aperitivo.
The original is credited to barman Fosco
Scarselli of Caffe Casoni in Florence, between
1917 and 1920.
Many drinks fail when the components aren’t
in balance, write Alex Day and Dave Kaplan,
two of the authors of Cocktail Codex. The two,
also proprietors of Death & Co., with locations
in Denver, Los Angeles and New York City, offer
a caveat. “However, there is an exception to this
rule (as there always is): the Negroni.”
The two credit the interplay of bitter Campari
with the clean structure of gin and the richness
of vermouth for its lasting appeal. Yet, there’s
something about the simplicity of a drink
constructed in equal parts that lends itself to
easy riffing. Here are a few ideas:

) Double up on the gin for a drier drink.

) Swap out the gin for rum (a Kingston

Negroni), Bourbon or rye (a Boulevardier),
or Tequila (La Rosita).

) Switch in dry vermouth for sweet, or top

up with soda water or sparkling wine (a
Negroni “Royale”).

) Experiment with the red bitter. Swap part

or all of it for other liqueurs that have some
sweetness and bold flavor, like Aperol,
Suze or smaller measures of orange liqueur
or crème de cacao. The latter makes a
luscious Chocolate Negroni.

138 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 No-Fuss Negroni
Adapted from Cocktail Codex (Ten
Speed Press, 2018), by Alex Day,
Nick Fauchauld and Dave Kaplan

1 ounce gin
1 ounce Campari
1 ounce sweet vermouth
Orange half-wheel, for garnish

In mixing glass filled with ice, stir

all ingredients except garnish.
Strain into Old-Fashioned glass
over large ice cube. Garnish with
orange half-wheel.

WINEMAG.COM | 139
HIGHBALL
If there’s any drink that absolutely, positively
can’t be screwed up, it’s the highball. The
template is an ounce or two of a core spirit,
often whiskey, and a nonalcoholic mixer, either
effervescent or still. It doesn’t get any simpler or
more flexible.
“I’ve been taking any spirit I have on hand
and dumping a can of LaCroix on it,” says Willey.
“Bubbly water on anything is pretty wonderful. I
have mezcal, Tequila, whiskey. A highball is such a
lovely, refreshing thing. It always surprises me.”
The drink is so accommodating that he
often lengthens it as he goes with more
sparkling water as he sips. It creates what
he refers to jokingly as “an infinity highball.”
At Brooklyn’s Strangeways, co-owner
Jamie Webb uses fresh Granny Smith
apple juice to give the “Sigh of Relief”
highball a vibrant bright-green hue and
zingy flavor.
“Everything works in it,” he says.
Here are some ideas:

) Use spiced rum, vodka or gin

instead of whiskey.

) Try nonalcoholic cider and a

squeeze of lemon instead
of fresh-pressed juice from
Granny Smiths.

) Top it up with club soda or

ginger ale for a lower-alcohol
afternoon sipper.

140 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

Sigh of Relief Highball
Courtesy Jamie Webb, co-owner, Strangeways,
Brooklyn, NY

1½ ounces whiskey
4 ounces Granny Smith apple juice (pressed from
about 1½ apples)
Green apple slices, for garnish

Scoop ice into highball glass. Pour in whiskey and apple

juice. Serve with straw. Fan out apple slices and secure
with toothpick, then balance on edge of glass to garnish.

WINEMAG.COM | 141
OLD FASHIONED
The classic Old Fashioned is among the “easiest
to manipulate and riff,” says New York City
bartender and beverage director Aubrey Slater.
If you switch out sweeteners, bitters and spirits,
“the possibilities and combinations are endless,”
she says.
This is a good excuse to break out something
delicious. In general, it’s an uncomplicated drink
that highlights the base spirit. For the rum-based
Old Fashioned variation below, Slater recom-
mends an aged rum at least eight years old.
Angostura’s warming spice notes are the
usual addition to an Old Fashioned, but Slater
supplements with orange bitters, too.
Because this drink is so straightforward, it’s a
good one to showcase with beautiful glassware
and large ice cubes.
“All drinks are more forgiving with the ice,
especially if you have good ice,” says Webb. “And
it looks more impressive.”
Here are more ideas to make this your own:

) Whiskey is the classic base for an Old

Fashioned, but any brown spirit works
well. Try rum, brandy, applejack, reposado
Tequila, barrel-aged gin or genever.

) Instead of Demerara syrup, other varia-

tions might rely upon maple syrup, honey
or simple syrup (made with white sugar
instead of Demerara), or small amounts of
liqueur or sweeter-style amari.

142 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 Relaxed Rum
Old Fashioned
Courtesy Aubrey Slater, bartender/
bar manager, New York City

2 ounces aged rum (preferably at

least 8 years old)
¼ ounce Demerara syrup
(2 parts Demerara sugar
stirred into 1 part hot water)
2 dashes Angostura bitters
2 dashes orange bitters
Thick orange peel, for garnish

In rocks glass, stir first four

ingredients with large piece of ice.
Express orange peel over top of
drink, then use it to garnish.

WINEMAG.COM | 143
 BY
L AY L A
SCHLACK
PHOTOS BY
CO N P O U LOS

STYLING BY
CHRISTINE ALBANO

PROP STYLING: SUZIE MYERS

144 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

Impressive
confections get
paired with the sweet
wines they deserve.

D
essert and sweet wines have a lot
in common beyond sugar: Both,
at their best, are packed with
complexity and characteristics
like brightness or bitterness to
keep them from being cloying. Both are after-
thoughts a lot of the time, too, and not just
because of their place in the meal. But that
doesn’t mean they have to be. With winter
nights at home looming on the horizon, we’re
putting the last course and its sweet pairings
in the spotlight. Whether your dessert prefer-
ences run fruity, caramelly or chocolatey, we’ve
got a recipe for you on the following pages
paired with the right style of dessert wine.

WINEMAG.COM | 145
Tangerine Curd Mille-Feuille
With a name that means “a thousand sheets,” this dessert has the veneer of French patisserie fanciness.
Ryley Eckersley, chef de cuisine at Quaintrelle in Portland, Oregon, has simplified things by calling for
frozen puff pastry. His version is also layered with ginger custard, set off by a tangerine curd and Earl Grey
ice cream—the combination of bright citrus and warming ginger is a winter classic.

Courtesy Ryley Eckersley, chef de cuisine, Quaintrelle, Portland, OR

146 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 1 17-ounce package frozen puff pastry,
thawed
1 cup tangerine juice
2 teaspoons lemon zest
1½ cups sugar
6 whole eggs
12 tablespoons butter
2 cups milk
1 vanilla bean
5 yolks
½ cup ginger juice
¼ cup cornstarch
2 tablespoons flour
Earl Grey ice cream (recipe at
winemag.com/JustDesserts)

Heat oven to 400˚F. Roll out puff pastry

to ¼ inch thick. Cut into 36 rectangles (or
other shape, if desired). Place on parch-
ment-lined sheet pan, then top with an-
other sheet of parchment and place another
tray on top. Bake for 15 minutes, remove
top tray and parchment, and bake for
another 4–5 minutes until golden brown.
Remove from oven and set aside.
For curd, in saucepan over medium heat,
combine tangerine juice, lemon zest, 1 cup
sugar and whole eggs, whisking vigorously
and constantly. Whisk in butter until fully
incorporated, allow to reach bubble, then
transfer to bowl and chill.
To make ginger custard, heat milk and
vanilla to simmer. Separately, whisk yolks
and sugar together until pale yellow, fold in
ginger juice, cornstarch and flour until fully
incorporated. Very slowly add hot milk,
whisking constantly until fully incorpo-
rated. Strain through fine-mesh sieve back
into pan and heat until just starting to boil.
Remove from heat, chill and transfer to
PAIR IT: ICE WINE piping bag.
These wines, produced primarily in Canada and Germany, are made from grapes that are harvested when they’re To assemble, small dollop custard on
frozen, usually in January or February. They tend to be honeylike in their sweetness but balanced by fresh acidity. plate. Place puff pastry piece on top. Pipe
Often carrying notes of stone fruits, they’re a great complement to desserts made with everything from citrus to dots down both sides, and top with another
tropical varieties. puff pastry piece, and repeat, for 3 layers of
For this dessert, Quaintrelle Wine Manager Chris Cooper recommends Alloro 2017 Vino Nettare Dessert puff. Pipe or spoon tangerine curd on plate,
Wine, produced nearby in the Chehalem Mountains appellation of the Willamette Valley. This “ice style” wine is where you see fit. Place scoop of Earl Grey
65% Muscat and 35% Riesling. Its apricot and floral notes will highlight the tangerine curd, while the dessert’s ice cream on plate. Repeat with remaining
ginger custard will keep things from getting too sweet. components. Serves 12.

WINEMAG.COM | 147
Butterscotch Panna Cotta
Panna cotta, Italian for cooked cream, is exactly the type of dessert you want in your arsenal: It seems
fancy, but set with gelatin, it’s easier to prepare than a custard. This one was supplied by Bad Hunter in
Chicago, which closed due to the coronavirus pandemic. The dessert is flavored with butterscotch and
studded with toffee and sourdough breadcrumbs. The result is rich but not too sweet with plenty of toasty
nuttiness to warm a winter’s night.

Courtesy Danielle Snow, former executive pastry chef, Bad Hunter, Chicago

WHIPPED CRÈME FRAÎCHE

Add vanilla bean paste to crème fraîche to
taste. Whisk until whipped to soft peaks.

148 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020


PAIR IT: FORTIFIED WINE
Fortified wines are a large and varied category
encompassing any wine that has spirits added to
it. Many are dry, but when pairing with a caramel
or butterscotch dessert, you’ll want a sweet
Madeira, white or tawny Port, or amontillado or
oloroso Sherry. These all have oxidative qualities
that can contribute nutty, tobacco, coffee and/or
caramel notes. Bad Hunter’s former wine director,
Rebecca Schliff, recommends Cossart Gordon
NV 5 Year Old Bual Medium Rich Madeira with
this recipe.
“This Madeira is a little lighter and less sweet
than the butterscotch panna cotta but still
stands up to its richness,” Schliff says. “It can
be a bit cloying on the palate if both the dessert
wine and dessert are equally sweet. The caramel
and coffee notes of the Madeira complement the
toffee in the panna cotta.”
1 cup butter
2½ tablespoons corn syrup
1¼ cup sugar
1¾ teaspoons salt, plus more to taste
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 loaf sourdough bread
Olive oil
22/3 cups heavy cream
½ cup brown sugar
2/3 cup crème fraîche
1 tablespoon gelatin powder
Thyme-poached pears (recipe at
winemag.com/PannaCotta)
To make toffee pieces, line sheet pan with
silicone mat or parchment paper. In pot,
melt ½ cup of butter. Add corn syrup, ¾
cup sugar, ½ teaspoon salt, 1½ teaspoons
vanilla extract and 5 teaspoons water. Cook
over medium-high heat until mixture reg-
isters 300˚F on candy thermometer. Pour
into prepared tray and let harden at room
temperature. Once cool, break into small
pieces and store in an airtight container for
up to 1 day.
To make sourdough crumbs, heat oven
to 350˚F. Cut crust from bread and dis-
card. Cut bread into rough 1-inch chunks.
Toss with olive oil until evenly coated but
not saturated. Season with salt, to taste.
Spread onto parchment-lined sheet pan.
Bake for 10–15 minutes, tossing halfway
through to ensure even browning. Remove
from oven and let come to room tempera-
ture, then pulse in food processor to form
coarse crumbs.
To make panna cotta, warm pot over
medium heat. Gradually add remaining ½
cup sugar to hot pot until sugar caramel-
izes to deep amber. Immediately add 2/3 cup
heavy cream. Bring back to simmer, whisk-
ing to incorporate. Whisking continuously,
add remaining heavy cream, remaining 1¼
teaspoons salt and 1½ teaspoons vanilla ex-
tract, as well as brown sugar, crème fraîche
and, as last ingredient, gelatin. Strain
through fine-mesh sieve and cool to room
temperature. Divide equally among 8 shal-
low dishes. Refrigerate until set. Top with
toffee pieces, sourdough crumbs, thyme-
poached pears and whipped crème fraîche
or whipped cream, if desired. Serves 8.
WINEMAG.COM | 149
150 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
 Chocolate and Fig Tart
For many people, there’s no dessert other than chocolate. This one—a dark chocolate ganache layered
in a chocolate cookie shell—is unabashedly rich to satisfy anyone in that crowd. Caitlyn Jarvis, the pastry
chef for Henrietta Red in Nashville, has also layered in lots of fig flavor to highlight some of the nuance of
the star ingredient and add a spot of brightness.

Caitlyn Jarvis, pastry chef, Henrietta Red

and The Party Line (catering), Nashville

11 tablespoons butter
½ cup sugar
1¹/3 cups flour
2/3 cup cocoa powder
¼ teaspoon baking powder
2/3 plus ¾ teaspoons salt
1½ cups fig jam (store-bought, or use
recipe at winemag.com/FigJam)
2 cups dark chocolate pieces (70%
cacao)
¾ teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons heavy cream
Pickled figs (for recipe, visit
winemag.com/FigTart)

PAIR IT: AROMATIZED WINE Heat oven to 350˚F. In stand mixer fitted
A good chocolate dessert starts with complex, flavorful chocolate, which can often have with paddle attachment, cream 8 table-
fruity, herbal, floral and berry notes. An aromatized wine such as vermouth, amaro, spoons butter and sugar. Add in all flour,
quinquina or chinato is a sweetened, fortified wine that’s also likely to have those cocoa, baking powder and 2/3 teaspoon salt,
characteristics, plus a dose of bitterness to match that in chocolate. and mix until just combined. Spread onto
Allie Poindexter, the restaurant’s former wine director, recommends Cappellano NV sheet pan lined with parchment and bake
Barolo Chinato, from Italy’s Piedmont region. Made from a Nebbiolo base, infused with for 15–20 minutes. Let cool.
cinchona bark—the same ingredient used in tonic water—and herbs, and enhanced with In food processor, grind to crumbs, stop-
spirits, this is produced from a family recipe dating back to 1870. Originally made with ping just before it becomes cookie butter.
medicinal intentions, it will cure whatever ails you. Melt remaining 3 tablespoons butter and
thoroughly combine with crumbs. Press
mixture firmly into tart mold. Bake for 20
minutes. Cool completely, then spread fig
jam over crust.
To make ganache filling, place chocolate,
vanilla and remaining ¾ teaspoon salt in
heatproof bowl. Warm cream over medium
heat until simmering. Pour cream over
chocolate and allow to melt for 2–3 min-
utes, then mix until completely emulsified.
Pour into tart shell and chill until set. Top
with pickled and fresh figs. Serves 8.

WINEMAG.COM | 151
 BEST OF YEAR

THIS MONTH
154 LOIRE VALLEY

177 BURGUNDY

181 RHÔNE VALLEY

182 PORTUGAL
184 NORTHERN ITALY

187 NEW ZEALAND

188 CHILE

190 URUGUAY

191 CALIFORNIA
194 WASHINGTON

198 SPIRITS
199 BEER

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WINEMAG.COM | 153
BUYINGGUIDE
LOIRE VALLEY
A hidden trove of Pinot Noir
I
t’s hard to find many benefits of climate
change. However, there is one for vine grow-
ers and wine producers in cooler climates.
Grapes that ripened erratically are now reg-
ularly capable of going the extra mile, turning
out wines that previously could only have been
made in warmer climes.
That’s the case in the eastern
Loire regions of Sancerre and
Menetou-Salon. While these Producers have
areas might be better known for learned to make
Sauvignon Blanc, this story is
about Pinot Noir.
red wines that are
The red wines of Sancerre
close to attaining
and Menetou-Salon, which are the heights of
made entirely from Pinot Noir, Burgundian
used to be mainly thin and
Pinot Noir.
weedy. A few geniuses, such as
the Vacheron family, managed to
coax richness from grape, but mostly the wines
were light in profile, with flavors of bell pepper
and green herbs. Sometimes, a producer would
throw wood at the problem and fail.
The last six years, starting with the 2014
vintage, there has been a remarkable change.
Producers have learned to make red wines that
SANCERRE
95 Alphonse Mellot 2016 Géneration Dix-Neuf
(Sancerre). This flagship wine is one of a
pair of releases that celebrate the 19 generations of
the producer. Its structure and ripe, generous black
fruits are still developing, sustained by the wood
aging and acidity. Age further and drink from 2022.
Organic and biodynamic. MS Walker. Cellar Selec-
tion. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $140
94 Alphonse Mellot 2016 En Grands Champs
(Sancerre). This sophisticated, ripe wine
comes from a high elevation, well-exposed vine-
yard. Generous and full, the wine has light tannins
and spice from wood aging. The structure and black
fruits are rich and fully mature, although there is
also potential for further aging. Organic and biody-
namic. MS Walker. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $140
154 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
are close to attaining the heights of Burgundian
Pinot Noir, with the same depth and complex-
ity. They have learned that wood supports the
fruit and doesn’t submerge it.
The resulting wines are reflected in a recent
batch of reds reviewed from the regions. Who
would have thought that Sancerre could pro-
duce a 95-point red? Or, that in
this batch alone, there would be
more than 40 wines scoring 90
points or above?
These wines are succu-
lent in rich black cherry tones,
lifted by acidity that comes
from picking the grapes at just
the right moment, and not from
under-ripeness. They show
all that effort put into growing
Pinot Noir in the chalk soils of
Sancerre was worth it—that there was a logic
to putting the red vines among the ocean of
Sauvignon Blanc.
Elsewhere in this Buying Guide, you’ll find
reviews from Italy, California, New Zealand and
beyond. Check out winemag.com/ratings for
thousands more reviews. —Roger Voss
94 Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et Fils 2018
Anthocyane (Sancerre). Old vines and fer-
mentation and aging in barrel have produced this
richly concentrated wine. Big tannins and black
fruits are laced with acidity and minerality from the
chalky soil. Drink this ripe wine from 2022. Integ-
rity Wines GA. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $49
94 Domaine Delaporte 2018 Le Cul de Beaujeu
(Sancerre). For full review see page 159.
Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.5% Price: $53
94 Domaine Vacheron 2016 Belle Dame
(Sancerre). This is a magnificent wine
from a producer that has made a name for its red
Sancerre. The wine is dark, solid and firmly struc-
tured, balanced by rich, dense black fruits that
impart great potential. Drink this wine now, but it
will be better from 2021. Terlato Wines Interna-
tional. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $84
94 Pierre Morin 2016 Bellechaume (Sancerre).
From a parcel of vines in the village of Bué,
this wine benefits from the vineyard’s south expo-
sure. It has richness, depth and concentration. The
dense tannins and bold texture of the black fruits
are balanced by acidity and a cool, perfumed after-
taste. Drink now. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $31
93 Alphonse Mellot 2016 La Demoiselle
(Sancerre). This wine is structured and
full-bodied, rich in tannins, black-cherry fruits and
hints of green pepper. Wood aging has smoothed the
fruit and brought the beginnings of maturity to the
wine. Drink from 2021. MS Walker. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $130
93 Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et Fils 2018 Les
Saurins (Sancerre). A new single-parcel red
from this estate, this wine is structured and firm,
with a crisp red-currant edge and smokiness from
wood aging. The wine’s potential is obvious, with
tannins and acidity backing up the red fruits. Drink
this wine from 2022. Integrity Wines GA. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA
93 Domaine Matthias et Emile Roblin 2016
Grande Côte de la Vallée (Sancerre). The top
red wine from the producer, this is impressive. Per-
fumed, smooth and mature but still with acidity, the
wood-aged wine is elegant and spicy. Mature tan-
nins hold the wine together well, giving structure
and supporting the richness. Drink now. Vintage ’59
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $45
93 Domaine Vacheron 2018 Sancerre. From
the master of Pinot Noir in Sancerre, this
release epitomizes the spicy, perfumed style of wine
produced in the region. It also has richness and
density, giving a wine that is worth aging for several
years. Drink from 2022. European Cellars. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $40
93 Pierre Prieur et Fils 2014 Cuvée Maréchal
Prieur (Sancerre). This ripe, wood-aged wine
is mature. Perfumed and with its spice and black
fruits supporting the secondary, smoky flavors, the
wine is suave, balanced and totally ready to drink.
Vineyard Road. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $35
92 Domaine Delaporte 2018 Silex (Sancerre).
Named after the flint soil on which the vines
grow, this structured wine has plenty of tannins.
They go with the perfumed and spicy black-cherry
fruits. Acidity and a juicy character promise aging.
Drink from 2021. Vineyard Brands. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $42
Continued on page 176
 The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine
Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular
contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander
Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren
Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Edi-
tors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike
DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New
York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin
O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in Eng-
land; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt
97 Simonnet-Febvre 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru
(Chablis). A chalkiness on the nose of this
wine blends with freshly cut lime zest, creating a
Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean
P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey.
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s
initials appear following the note. When no initials appear fol-
vivid mix of aromas. Although the palate tones
this down, it still holds immense chalky depth and
freshness, despite the vintage’s ripeness. The body
96 Chappellet 2017 Hideaway Vineyard Chap-
pellet Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val-
ley). This wine is 100% varietal and aged in entirely
lowing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more
reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all is generous but lifted, with a hint of lanolin accen- new French oak, the grapes grown on a rocky slope
tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara
Newman and all beer reviews are by John Holl.
tuating the richness. This wine will be even more at 1,425 feet in elevation. Sinewy on the palate, it
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its beautiful and chalky with age. Drink 2022–2040. offers flavors of leather, mocha and dark berry, with
suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us Louis Latour Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.K. background notes of coffee and dark chocolate.
by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices abv: 13% Price: $95 It packs plenty of punch and opulence while still
are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. retaining enviable grace and complexity. —V.B.
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS abv: 14.5% Price: $140
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind.
Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8
samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight
to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never
the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible,
products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:The pinnacle of quality.
Superb 94–97: A great achievement.
Excellent 90–93:Highly recommended.
Very Good 87–89:Often good value; well recommended.
Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less-
critical circumstances. 97 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2017 S.L.V. Estate
Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap
District). From the producer’s first site that was
96 Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Angel Camp Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Well balanced
yet opulent in flavor, this superb wine blends a
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
points) are not reviewed. planted in 1970, this wine is sumptuous in black- spicy, earthy, piney aroma with lush, ripe black-
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS berry, fig and dark chocolate. A bright wisp of cassis fruit flavors that are shaded by hints of rosemary
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- shines on the midpalate, enlivening the bold, supple and baking spices. It’s beautifully complex on the
ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price texture. Underlying layers of crushed rock and iron palate and long on the finish. Best through 2028.
with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible provide a welcome and intriguing minerality that Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to highlights the finish. Best from 2027–2037. Cellar abv: 14.1% Price: $62
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
Selection. —V.B.
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In abv: 14.8% Price: $195
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced
at $15 or less, and are designated Best Buys after surpassing a
specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark.
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo-
cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/
contact-us. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review
Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast.
net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make
every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there
is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or
that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be
accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may
be downloaded from our website. 96 Joseph Drouhin 2018 Drouhin Vaudon
Vaudésir Grand Cru (Chablis). A creamy,
nutty haze on the nose of this wine already prom-
LABELS
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given
the opportunity to submit labels only after the reviews have been
finalized and assigned to a specific issue. Labels are reproduced
96 Brady Vineyard 2018 Zinfandel (Paso Robles).
Dense aromas of black currant, red flowers
and charred meat are wrapped in a rocky edge on
ises integration. The palate follows through with a
ripe, rounded body that has chalkiness, a pithy tex-
ture and a slight warmth that is countered by lem-
and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information
on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax the nose of this bottling. There is great cohesion to ony concentration. This big, bold wine portrays the
866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net the palate, where rich red fruits are cut by crushed ripeness of 2018, ringing with warmth and fresh-
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at stone flavors, lifted by savory spice and framed by ness. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —A.K.
winemag.com/ratings ample acidity and tannins. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $110
abv: 15% Price: $24

WINEMAG.COM | 155
BUYINGGUIDE
96 Mira 2015 Schweizer Vineyard Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Stags Leap District). A 100% vari-
etal wine from a mighty appellation, this is thickly
concentrated in black fruit, with robust tannins
and oak to carry it through. Specks of coconut and
vanilla contrast against a sturdy wall of black pep-
per, iron and crushed rock, finishing with powerful
intensity and length. Best from 2025–2035. Cellar
Selection. —V.B.
abv: 15.5% Price: $377
96 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2017 Cask 23 Estate
Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap Dis-
trict). A 100% varietal wine from the best lots of
two of the producer’s prized sites, Fay and S.L.V.,
this wine is richly expansive in red fruit, balanced
by bright acidity and lengthy structure. Clove, black
pepper, black olive and a dash of dark chocolate
mingle on the palate. Best from 2027–2037. Cellar
Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $295
95 Arietta 2018 H Block Hudson Vineyards
(Napa Valley). This is such a spectacular
showcase of 56% Cabernet Franc and 44% Merlot,
both from Hudson Vineyards in Carneros. Spicy in
nutmeg and clove, with red and black currant lay-
ered throughout, it finishes on accents of cedar, vio-
let and crushed rock. Best from 2028–2038. Cellar
Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.9% Price: $150
156 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
95 Austin Hope 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso
Robles). Quite dark in the glass, this reliable
crowd-pleaser begins with hearty aromas of black
currant, black plum, lush oak and caramel, accented
by a hint of olive and loads of clove and nutmeg. The
mouthfeel is hearty and rich, with just enough tan-
nic weight to balance the creamy black-cherry, cara-
mel and chocolate-ice-cream flavors, which lead to
an oaky finish. —M.K.
abv: 15% Price: $56
95 Chanson Père et Fils 2018 Montée de Ton-
nerre Premier Cru (Chablis). This wine’s shy
nose allows just brief glimpses of lemon zest and a
slight nuttiness. The nuttiness is equally subtle on
the taut, smooth and focused palate that seems to
be a shaft into cool, chalky depths. The long lemon-
zest finish is elegant and smooth. Drink 2022–
2040. Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $75
95 Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Devil’s Gulch Vine-
yard Chardonnay (Marin County). This silky,
gentle, quietly concentrated wine combines subtle
mint, pine, Gravenstein apple and peach flavors,
adding a suggestion of honey on the finish. While
full in feel, it’s not at all fat in texture, but sleek and
polished. Best through at least 2028. Cellar Selec-
tion. —J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $55
95 Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Devil’s Gulch Vine-
yard Pinot Noir (Marin County). This suave,
smooth and intricately flavored wine just wows the
nose and palate with well-modulated baking spices,
mulled cherries, black tea and cinnamon notes. It’s
polished, complex and full bodied, but well bal-
anced, too. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 13.8% Price: $72
95 J. Davies 2016 Jamie Cabernet Sauvignon
(Diamond Mountain District). Made from
estate-grown grapes, this wine opens in soft, sup-
ple tannins and a wealth of powerful black fruit.
Expansive and weighty on the palate, it unfurls
integrated acidity throughout. Black pepper, dried
herb and crushed rock components give it an endur-
ing earthiness. Enjoy from 2026–2036. Cellar
Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.9% Price: $225
95 Kintera Wines 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Rutherford). Beautifully inviting aromas
entice one into a world of blueberry, dark cherry
and cassis in this layered, luxurious wine. With
small amounts of Malbec and Petit Verdot included
in the blend, it is soft, supple and sultry on the
lengthy palate, with a spicy finish of nutmeg, clove
and black pepper. —V.B.
abv: 15.5% Price: $150

95 La Pelle 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val-
ley). A collaboration between winemaker
Maayan Koschitzky of Atelier Melka, viticultur-
ist Miguel Luna and vineyard manager Pete Rich-
mond, this stunning white is a must-try, even if
made in such small quantities that it might be dif-
ficult to find. The wine is aromatically exquisite and
fully realized in tension and texture. Delicate and
quenching, the acidity lifts a core of oyster shell,
white peach and stone. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 12.5% Price: $45
95 Merry Edwards 2018 Meredith Estate Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). This wine is
exuberantly layered in bright tones of pomegran-
ate and strawberry, while textured with integrated
tannins and oak. Complementary elements of forest
floor, black tea and clove play well with the fruiti-
ness and enduring lushness on the palate. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $72
95 Mira 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville).
This impressively structured wine, with just
3% Petit Verdot, is ample in a robut blackberry jam
tone. Iron, tobacco, lavender and dried herb ride
along the midpalate with ease. The black pepper
on the finish is additionally on point. Enjoy from
2026–2036. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 15% Price: $144
95 Quinta do Vallado 2018 Vintage Port. This
estate, founded by the legendary Dona
Antónia Ferreira, has produced a massive Port. Dark
with tannins and full of opulent black-stone fruits
and prunes, it obviously has a fine future ahead.
Drink this great Port from 2030. Quintessential
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 19.5% Price: $110
95 Quinta dos Murças 2015 VV47 (Douro). With
traditional foot treading in open lagars, this
field blend has a generously rich and open charac-
ter. Its tannins are firm but ripe—a powerhouse of
spice, black fruits and structure from wood aging.
It’s an impressive wine that can be enjoyed now or
until 2025. Now Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $90
95 Robert Biale 2018 R.W. Moore Vineyard
Zinfandel (Coombsville). First planted
in 1905, this is a relatively cool-climate site that
imparts great brightness and tart acidity to the
wine. A dark cherry flavor is powerfully repre-
sented, alongside baked plum, blackberry and black
pepper. A taut structure suggests this will do well
with time in bottle. Best from 2028–2033. Cellar
Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.8% Price: $62
95 Seven Apart 2018 Expedition Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Napa Valley). The inaugural release
made by Andy Erickson, this comes from the own-
er’s Sage Ridge Vineyard atop Atlas Peak, at 1,400-
feet in elevation and planted in 1999. Thick, tannic
and earthy, it buzzes in dried herb, sage, flint and a
rich intensity of blackberry, plum and vanilla. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 15.2% Price: $135
95 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2017 Fay Estate
Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap Dis-
trict). From the historic site where Stag’s Leap first
began, this is nearly 100% varietal, with just 1.5%
Cabernet Franc. It delivers a lifted, floral character
dipped in tangy red fruit. The tannins are pillowy
and supple, with a structure will last. Enjoy from
2027–2037. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.8% Price: $150
95 Stasis 2019 Murmur Vineyard Gamay Noir
(Santa Maria Valley). The early attempts
at Gamay Noir on the Central Coast trend toward
fresher styles, but this bottling is reminiscent of a
serious Cru Beaujolais. Aromas of dark berry, crum-
pled flowers, crushed rock and white pepper lead
into a palate of boysenberry, plum skin, pepper and
purple flowers. The texture is tight, the acidity is
bright and yet there is compelling density. Editors’
Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $42
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95 Three Sticks 2018 Origin Chardonnay
(Sonoma Coast). Tones of crushed salt, oak,
lemon zest and crème brûlée blend in this beauti-
fully made wine. From the producer’s own Durell
Vineyard, this white is fermented in concrete egg,
amphora and stainless steel, aged on its lees to maxi-
mize creaminess and texture. The power is there, yet
it is elegant and balanced. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $55
94 Anthem Winery 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Mount Veeder). Made by Winemaker
Jeff Ames, this Cabernet Sauvignon includes 7%
Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot. Aged in 100%
new French oak, it offers a seamless core of cassis,
raspberry and dark cherry, with velvety richness
forming a concentrated bond on the palate. —V.B.
abv: 15.6% Price: $125
94 Bel Colle 2016 Monvigliero (Barolo). Rose,
camphor, pipe tobacco, leather and tilled
earth are just some of the aromas that appear in
this full-bodied, fragrant red. Elegantly structured,
the focused palate features ripe black cherry, lico-
rice and clove framed in firm, fine-grained tannins.
Fresh acidity keeps it vibrant. Drink 2026–2036.
Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $75
158 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
94 Casa Relvas 2018 Herdade de São Miguel
Reserva (Alentejano). This dense, dark red
blend has a perfumed character, along with young
tannins and a backdrop of ripe black fruits. Made
with Alicante Bouchet, Touriga Nacional and a host
of other grapes, this is a big wine that needs to age.
Drink from 2022. Quintessential Wines. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 15% Price: $35
94 Cave de Tain 2017 Au Coeur des Siècles
Selection Parcellaire (Hermitage). Notes of
honeycomb and pollen offset delicate lemon and
apple on the nose of this 100% Marsanne. Sourced
from granite and alluvial soils, it’s a juicy, mouthfill-
ing, dry white that’s packed with crisp yellow apple
and quince flavors. Pristine fruit and crisp mineral
tones are appealing in youth, but it should continue
to improve through 2030 and hold longer still.
Hand Picked Selections. —A.I.
abv: 14% Price: $97
94 Château de la Crée 2017 La Rue aux Vaches
(Puligny-Montrachet). The nose of this
wine is subtle in gentle touches of oatmeal and
lemon. The palate then comes in with chiseled pre-
cision and lemony intensity. While hints of honey
have started to develop, the wine has underlying
concentration, with a gorgeously chalky texture. It’s
taut, bright, stony and long. Domaine Serene. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $70
94 Claiborne & Churchill 2018 Greengate Ranch
& Vineyard Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Deli-
cate aromas of red currant, pomegranate and rasp-
berry are enhanced by touches of rose petal and
crushed rocks on the nose of this bottling. The wine
starts on the palate with a brisk kick, showing wild
plum and rose petal as well as thyme, marjoram and
lavender. Waves of ever-changing complexity keep
coming into the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $52
94 Claiborne & Churchill 2018 Runestone Pinot
Noir (Edna Valley). This barrel-selection
bottling is named as an ode to the founder’s former
career as professor of Norse studies. It takes a bit of
time to open, but then doesn’t relent in complex-
ity. Ripe yet crisp aromas of black-raspberry cream,
black cherry and toast lead into a grippy palate
loaded with sagebrush, black plum and earthy herb
flavors that just grow more intriguing with time.
Drink through 2030. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 13.8% Price: $56
94 Daou 2018 Eye of the Falcon Reserve (Paso
Robles). This blend of 75% Cabernet Sau-
vignon and 25% Petit Verdot begins with aromas
of charred coffee beans, blistered black plums and
cherries, with accents of lilac and dried beef. The
roasted flavors extend across the palate, bringing
together espresso, soy, charred meat and dark fruit.
The tannins are polished yet hefty. —M.K.
abv: 14% Price: $75
94 Domaine Delaporte 2018 Le Cul de Beaujeu
(Sancerre). This rich, full-bodied Pinot
Noir is built aroundx solid tannins. At the same
time, dense black fruit balances all that structure,
yielding a powerful wine that needs time in the
cellar. Drink from 2022. Vineyard Brands. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $53
94 Dovecote 2017 Thompson Vineyard Estate
Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Black plum,
cardamom and more baking spice aromas kick off
the nose of this bottling from a historic vineyard
in the newly christened Alisos Canyon appellation
(approved after this wine was bottled). Flavors of
lavender, lilac and rose petal meet açaí and pepper-
corns. —M.K.
abv: 14.9% Price: $80
94 Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Docker Hill Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Mendocino). Pure, focused fruit
flavors and delicate baking spices give this medium-
to full-bodied wine a sleek but powerful expression.
Concentrated flavors of black cherry and pomegran-
ate are wrapped in light tannins and lifted by bright
acidity. It has everything needed to age well. Best
from 2024. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 14.1% Price: $68
94 Harrington 2018 Calleri Vineyard Sagrantino
(San Benito County). The essence of stone
is throughout this bottling of a grape originally from
Umbria, Italy. Aromas of river stone, granite and
gravel meet with red currant and underripe straw-
berry. The palate is brisk in acidity and mineral-
driven, while taut tannins carry bright red-fruit
flavors into a dry finish. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 13.1% Price: $35
94 Lail 2019 Blueprint Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). This white is fermented in French
oak barrels, 30% of them new, and then aged in
stainless steel—offering the best of both worlds.
Quenching flavors of stone fruit highlight a rounded,
rich palate, dusted in dried herb and earth. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $40
94 Lichen Estate 2018 Moonglow Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). Superfresh and power-
fully fruity, this medium- to full-bodied wine braces
bright, focused blackberry and black-cherry flavors
with tangy acidity and moderate, grippy tannins.
It has a vibrancy and drama that are wonderful to
experience. Best from 2023. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $35
94 Luke 2018 Reserve Syrah (Wahluke Slope).
Blackberry and other dark-fruit aromas
meld with notes of smoked meat, coffee and min-
eral. The palate packs a big wallop of rich, layered
black-fruit flavors, with plenty of tannic structure
to provide support. It’s a power-packed, hedonistic
delight. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.7% Price: $45
94 Maison Evenstad 2017 La Garenne Premier
Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). Hazelnut and a
hint of resin carries the nose of this wine. The pal-
ate adds multidimesional richness in tones of lemon
oil, saffron, hazelnut and flint—it is steely precision
clothed in sumptuous velvet, and will please Bur-
gundy purists as well as richer Chardonnay fans
with its creamy finish. Domaine Serene. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $125
94 McKahn 2018 Mourvèdre (Livermore Val-
ley). This substantial, fruit-packed and full-
bodied wine overflows with delicious dark-berry
and dark-chocolate flavors while the rich, clinging
texture is backed by light tannins. With time in the
glass, intricate, complex notes of beef, woodsmoke
and mushroom appear on the palate and linger on
the finish. —J.G.
abv: 14.9% Price: $42
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94 Niner 2016 Fog Catcher Estate Grown (Paso
Robles). This top-shelf bottling is a blend
of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Malbec, 15%
Carmenère and 14% Petit Verdot. Aromas of black
currant and licorice lead into an elegantly framed
palate of black plum and violet, bolstered by tan-
nins that are firm but not in the way. —M.K.
abv: 14.6% Price: $100
94 Portalupi 2018 Shake Ridge Ranch Barbera
(Amador County). A deft touch of new oak
and sumptuous, concentrated blueberry and black-
cherry flavors are delicious and impressive in this
full-bodied wine. It is big and superexpressive, lay-
ering cinnamon and nutmeg over the dramatic, ripe
fruit notes framed by moderate fine-grained tan-
nins. Best through 2028. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 15% Price: $90
94 Quinta do Crasto 2016 Reserva Vinhas
Velhas (Douro). A blend of 30 grape vari-
eties from vines at least 70 years old, this wine
boasts denisty and a firm structure. It is powered
by tannins, dark black-fruit flavors and great con-
centration, and is an impressive wine that needs
time. Drink from 2022. Folio Fine Wine Partners.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $45
160 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
94 Robert Biale 2018 Black Chicken Zinfandel
(Napa Valley). The producer’s marquee
wine and a nod to its long-standing ties to farm-
ing, this is fresh and earthy in notes of crushed
rock, slate, dried herb and black pepper. The fruit
is layered and sumptuous in flavors of raspberry
and black cherry, while supple tannins and a hint of
toasted oak provide framing. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.8% Price: $50
94 Robert Biale 2018 Gaudi Carli Vineyard Bar-
bera (Calistoga). This tiny production wine
is made from some of the oldest Barbera in Napa
Valley, planted more than 80 years ago. Tangy red
fruit leads to flavors of just-picked blackberry, with
bright acidity carrying the experience to an earthy
mushroom finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $50
94 Robert Biale 2018 Valsecchi Vineyard
Zinfandel (Carneros). One of the few and
oldest vineyards planted to the variety in Carne-
ros, this wine opens in sharp, tangy cherry and
strawberry flavors dusted with baking spice. Bright
acidity turns up at every level, though the wine
still maintains plenty of full-bodied power, concen-
tration and a creamy texture. A finishing touch of
citrus underscores its lively nature. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $58
94 Robert Biale 2018 Varozza Vineyard
Zinfandel (St. Helena). Brawny and thick in
notes of blackberry, dark cherry and cola, this wine
comes from a 40-acre site of head-trained vines at
the northern edge of St. Helena. A plush, opulent
texture supports the powerful fruit, finishing on
teases of nutmeg and black pepper. —V.B.
abv: 14.8% Price: $55
94 Sante Arcangeli 2018 Lester Family Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Many
winemakers pull from this vineyard, but John Bene-
detti might be closest to mastering the site. Tightly
wound aromas of strawberry, red plum and hibiscus
are wrapped in a slightly earthy sage-root element.
The palate snaps with crisp cranberry and rose petal
flavors, lifted by white pepper and sumac. Editors’
Choice. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $49
94 Tatomer 2018 Paragon Grüner Veltliner
(Edna Valley). Tangerine peel, dried lime
and a lightly funky kelp aroma draws the nose into
this epic bottling by Graham Tatomer. The palate is
extremely dry yet utterly floral, offering flavors of
plumeria, jasmine tea and Mandarin zest. Editors’
Choice. —M.K.
abv: 13% Price: $28
94 Three Sticks 2018 One Sky Chardonnay
(Sonoma Mountain). From an estate vine-
yard planted at 1,400-feet in elevation, where cool
pockets hug the mountain, this white is bright,
grippy and textured. Fennel, flint and lemon peel
flavors wrap around a tense core of stone fruit and
oak, with shots of acidity that brighten and lengthen
the palate. —V.B.
abv: 14.2% Price: $55
94 Villa Oeiras NV Superior (Carcavelos). This
blend of Galego Dourado, Arinto and Rat-
inho is aged for 15 years in wood and comes from
Portugal’s smallest appellation. The long wood aging
of this wine has given it an intensity that comes
from great concentration. It has a beautiful texture
and touches of honey and spice that are memorable.
Drink now. Haus Alpenz. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 18.5% Price: $31/500 ml
94 Vina Robles 2017 Mountain Road Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Aro-
mas of freshly smashed boysenberry, açaí sorbet
and purple flowers make for a vibrant nose in this
bottling from the brand’s Adelaida Springs Ranch,
located just 12 miles from the coast at 1,700 feet
in elevation. Those fruity, floral tones are upheld by
tight tannins on the otherwise lush palate. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $56
94 Vina Robles 2018 The Arborist Estate Red
Blend (Paso Robles). This is a screamingly
good deal, offering both hedonistic pleasure and
complexity through a blend of 41% Syrah, 35%
Petite Sirah, 12% Grenache and 12% Tannat. Aro-
mas of roasted cherry, smoked meat and cola spice
lead into a hearty palate of black currant, roasted
game and licorice. It’s balanced by bright acidity,
making for a sip that will satisfy many. Editors’
Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $18
94 Xavier et Agnès Amirault 2016 Le Fondis
(Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil). From deep
gravel soil to the west of Saint-Nicolas, this wine is
rich and balanced despite its modest alcohol. Ripe,
firm tannins give the wine richness and structure
along with some further aging potential. Perfumed
red-berry fruits offer a fresh take. Drink from 2022.
Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $46
94 Zaca Mesa 2018 Bien Nacido Vineyard Hom-
age Collection Pinot Noir (Santa Maria
Valley). An elegant lavender aroma meets with
raspberry, crushed rock and a hint of game on the
nose of this bottling. The tannins are expertly taut,
carrying more floral tones of lavender and rose
alongside subdued plum, making for a delicate yet
complex display. —M.K.
abv: 13.9% Price: $48
93 Andis 2018 Old Vine Original Grandpère Vine-
yard Zinfandel (Sierra Foothills). Distinctive
tones of salt, pepper and sage bring this full-bodied
wine to life as they accent the ripe plum and black-
berry flavors. Mild tannins and a superbroad tex-
ture make this wine something over which to linger,
as it no doubt reflects the 19th-century vines from
which it was made. —J.G.
abv: 15.5% Price: $45
93 Claiborne & Churchill 2018 Claiborne Vine-
yard Estate Dry Riesling (Edna Valley).
Aromas of jasmine, apple, honey and light petrol
show on the nose of this bottling from a pioneering
Riesling property. The palate is both crisp and oily,
offering flavors of lime peel and citrus jelly as well
as guava and plumeria. —M.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $28
93 Croma Vera 2018 Grenache (Edna Valley).
Buoyant aromas of raspberry, white pep-
per, rose, dried sage, loamy soil and roasted meat
make for a layered and dynamic entry to this hearty
wine. There is plenty of depth on the palate as well,
from black raspberry and plum flavors to salumi and
Turkish delight. —M.K.
abv: 14.6% Price: $45
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93 Crū 2018 Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Aromas of iron,
roasted cherry, sagebrush and potpourri are pleas-
antly full and rustic on the nose of this bottling
from a coveted vineyard. Light strawberry, roasted
red-plum and thyme flavors are fresh yet ruggedly
delicious on the palate. —M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $60
93 Dovecote 2018 Thompson Vineyard Petite
Sirah (Alisos Canyon). Petite Sirah is a rarity
in Santa Barbara County, but this vineyard makes
one wonder why. Aromas of lilac, Concord grape,
iodine and elderberry jam slide into an upright,
acid-washed palate of violet candy and just-smashed
black currant. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.8% Price: $55
93 El Pino Club 2018 Sea Floored Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). Coiled aromas of raspberry
and red cherry meet with a hint of loamy soil on
the powerful nose of this bottling. There’s a touch of
savory game at the beginning of the sip, then come
flavors of black raspberry paste and cardamom.
Drink now–2033. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 13.9% Price: $60
162 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
93 Four Vines 2018 The Kinker Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Paso Robles). For the price, this deli-
cious bottling is hard to beat. Aromas of blackberry
pie, caramel and light oak are approachable and
appealing. The palate is wrapped in tight-enough
tannins to uphold the joyous black-plum and black-
berry-pie flavors, which are enhanced by savory
touches of meat and black olive. It finishes on a hint
of mint. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14% Price: $18
93 High Valley Vineyard 2018 Zinfandel (High
Valley). Pure, delicious black-fruit flavors
and a nicely firm texture make a great combination
in this full-bodied, high-alcohol but well-balanced
wine. Hints of mint and cedar accent the black-
cherry and black-plum flavors while light tannins
add a good bite to the texture. —J.G.
abv: 15.9% Price: $32
93 Indigené 2017 Parenthesis Syrah (Chalone).
Like much from this ruggedly dry appella-
tion, this bottling is tightly wound and should stand
the test of time. Dark aromas of black currant, crisp
blackberry, violet, game and graphite lead into a
tense, chalky palate with dark fruit and black pepper
flavors. Drink 2022–2037. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 14.3% Price: $45
93 Lucia 2018 Garys’ Vineyard Syrah (Santa
Lucia Highlands). This wine is only begin-
ning to gather the elements that will make it a clas-
sic for years to come, starting with aromas of savory
dried meat, kelp and charred asphalt. The palate’s
dried purple fruits are lifted by peppercorns, tar
and more seashore influence—elements that will all
converge in true harmony with time. Drink 2022–
2038. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 14.2% Price: $60
93 Mettler Family Vineyards 2018 Estate Grown
Petite Sirah (Lodi). Deep, layered and satu-
rated, this inky-colored wine is massively concen-
trated and tannic, but still comes off velvety and
generous. Woodsmoke, blueberry and dark choco-
late are accented by touches of vanilla and cassis.
Best from 2023–2038. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
93 Portalupi 2018 Shake Ridge Ranch Primi-
tivo (Amador County). Absolutely gorgeous
black-fruit flavors burst out of this deep, dark, full-
bodied Primitivo. It is a supergenerous, ripe and lip-
smacking expression. Blackberry and black-cherry
flavors practically overwhelm the palate and linger
on the finish. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 15.5% Price: $40

93 Quinta dos Murças 2018 Margem (Douro).
This field blend of old vines planted close to
the Douro River is impressive and also very young.
It has tight tannins that are still firmly closed, giv-
ing it an initial dry character. But the rich black
fruit and ripe acidity promise a fine future. Drink
from 2023. Now Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $65
93 Quinta dos Murças 2015 Reserva Vinhas Vel-
has (Douro). This wine is made from a wide
selection of Douro grapes. They give power and
richness as well as solidly textured tannins and con-
centrated black fruits. The wood aging adds spice
and pepper as well as broadening out the structure.
Drink from 2022. Now Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $45
93 Ron Noble 2018 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir
(Petaluma Gap). This reserve-level wine
from a cool-climate site is weighty and robust in
style, with a creamy texture and plenty of upfront
fruit intensity. Brooding black cherry and wild
strawberry layer over sumptuous notes of carda-
mom, nutmeg and clove. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $95
93 Ruggeri & C. 2019 Vecchie Viti Brut (Valdob-
biadene Prosecco Superiore). Honeysuckle
and green apple aromas follow over to the polished,
vibrant palate, along with green melon and pear.
Tangy acidity lifts the rich flavors while an ele-
gant, continuous perlage provides creamy finesse.
WinesU. —K.O.
abv: 12% Price: $40
93 Sante Arcangeli 2018 Ananda Pinot Noir
(Santa Cruz Mountains). Named after Wine-
maker John Benedetti’s late wife, Melania Ananda
Benedetti, this bottling combines the grapes from-
Split Rail and Lester Family Vineyards. It opens
with candied cherry, red currant and wild mint on
the nose, leading into a grippy, fresh palate of tart
red fruit, peppery spices and a smooth finish. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $65
93 Schramsberg 2017 Blanc de Blancs Méthode
Traditionnelle Brut (North Coast). Lively
citrus flavors are nicely tempered by almond and
bread-dough nuances in this elegant, well-balanced
and rich-tasting wine. It offers more than fresh
fruit, adding aged-on-the-lees complexity for a very
tempting expression. —J.G.
abv: 12.2% Price: $41
93 Schramsberg 2011 J. Schram (North Coast).
Handsome and fully mature, this well-aged
bottle of bubbles is all about complexity. Tempting
aromas of toasted walnuts and buttered baguettes
are backed by mellow lemon and tangerine notes
that keep the palate fresh from the start to the lin-
gering finish. —J.G.
abv: 12.2% Price: $130
93 Shokrian Vineyard 2018 Harvest Moon Unfil-
tered Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County).
Extremely light in the glass, this wine by Drake
Whitcraft is sprightly and refreshing, starting with
aromas of cranberry juice, raspberry, strawberry
and hibiscus. It’s crisp and tight on the palate,
where those red fruit and flower flavors meet with
bright acidity. This one goes down all too easily.
Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 11.5% Price: $44
93 Shokrian Vineyard 2018 Opulent Goat Syrah
(Santa Barbara County). A crisp black-
raspberry-sorbet aroma makes for a fresh, inviting
interpretation of Syrah by Winemaker Alice Ander-
son. The palate is grippy in structure, offering tart
blackberry and lavender flavors, clinging to that
snappy and fresh vibe. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $40
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93 Shokrian Vineyard 2017 Rue Dauphine Pinot
Noir (Santa Barbara County). Black rasp-
berry, wet clay and rose petal aromas converge on
the dynamic nose of this brisk bottling from a vine-
yard near Los Alamos. The wine is fresh, snappy and
lively on the sip, where an energetic tension delivers
bright, easy-to-like flavors of red currant and white
pepper. —M.K.
abv: 12.7% Price: $42
93 Vina Robles 2018 Estate Petite Sirah (Paso
Robles). Quite dark and inky in the glass,
this bottling begins with aromas of cassis, roasted
meat and a hint of baking spice. Thick, hearty tan-
nins frame the savory sip, where teriyaki and roast
lamb flavors lead to dark berries, moving to vanilla
bean and espresso on the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $29
92 Andis 2018 Painted Fields Old Vine Zinfandel
(Sierra Foothills). This well-balanced, lay-
ered and seamless wine offers tons of fresh black-
berry and raspberry flavors wrapped in a bracing
texture of fine-grained tannins. Good acidity and a
great sense of focus add to its charms. Interestingly,
it is made from 50% Zinfandel, 30% Primitivo (the
Italian strain of Zinfandel), 10% Petite Sirah and
10% Barbera. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 15.5% Price: $25
164 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
92 Bel Colle 2016 Simposio (Barolo). Aromas
of ripe berry, pipe tobacco and new leather
form the nose. Firmly structured, the palate offers
juicy black cherry, baked plum and star anise
alongside close-grained tannins. Drink 2026–
2031. Quintessential Wines. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $60
92 Bel Colle 2009 10 Anni Riserva (Barolo). Aro-
mas of tar, smoke, pressed rose, leather and
prune slowly take shape in the glass. The aromas
carry over to the medium-bodied palate along with
dried cherry and tobacco while fine-grained, dry-
ing tannins provide support. It’s still holding up,
but enjoy it sooner rather than later to capture the
remaining fruit and freshness. Drink through 2024.
Quintessential Wines. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $75
92 Casa Relvas 2018 Herdade de São Miguel
Escolha dos Enólogos (Alentejano). Taken
from a selection in the cellar, this wood-aged wine
is a rich blend that includes Touriga Nacional, Ali-
cante Bouschet, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and
others. It has structure as well as powerful black-
fruit flavors that come through the dark chocolate
and spice accents. Drink from 2022. Quintessential
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
92 Castelli Family Vineyards 2015 Estate Petite
Sirah (Ramona Valley). This is a solid wine
from a little known Southern California region.
Dense aromas of cassis, black plum, barbecued meat
and leather lead into a palate wrapped in chalky
tannins. Opulent cassis and elegant purple-flower
flavors lead into a lavender-scented finish. Editors’
Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $45
92 Cossart Gordon 2008 Colheita Single Har-
vest Verdelho (Madeira). At 12 years old,
this wood-aged Madeira has plenty of fruit to go
with lifted acidity. Orange and candied lemon-peel
flavors are preserved by the wine’s total freshness
and spice. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. —R.V.
abv: 19% Price: $48/500 ml
92 Dos Almas 2015 Apogeo de Apalta (Colcha-
gua Valley). Blackberry and blueberry aro-
mas meld with a bit of tar on the nose. A full and
layered palate brings the intensity, while this Cab-
ernet Sauvignon-lead blend tastes of blackberry,
chocolate and a touch of green herbs. Toasty oak
lends smokiness to a finish that fades with grace.
1821 Fine Wines & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $50

92 Dovecote 2019 Thompson Vineyard Estate
Rosé (Santa Barbara County). A light shade
of pink, this bottling begins with delicate aromas of
bubblegum, rose and wet stone. The palate comes
alive with zesty acidity and a chalky texture, offer-
ing flavors of peach, citrus and strawberry. —M.K.
abv: 13.9% Price: $30
92 Dovecote 2016 Redtail Thompson Vineyard
(Santa Barbara County). Aromas of baked
boysenberry and raspberry meld with baking spice,
soy and braised beef accents on the nose of this
blend of 34% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 25% Mourvè-
dre and 16% Petite Sirah. There’s a fresh snap to
the palate, where bright acidity carries flavors of
tart blackberry, mace and cracked pepper. —M.K.
abv: 13% Price: $55
92 Four Vines 2018 The Biker Zinfandel (Paso
Robles). Aromas of fresh berries and
crushed rocks make for a tightly wound and focused
nose in this bottling. Brisk blackberry-jam and
light vanilla flavors converge on the palate, which
is structurally impressive, wrapped in taut tannins
and solid acidity. —M.K.
abv: 15% Price: $18
92 Highway 12 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali-
fornia). This complex and well-layered wine
is a true standout. It offers intriguing tobacco, earth
and cedar aromas, well-knit flavors of black cherry,
tamarind and olive, all wrapped in a solid, firm tex-
ture. Composed and well balanced, it will drink well
through at least 2026. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $17
92 Hook or Crook 2018 Field Blend Reserve
(Lodi). Excellent depth and concentra-
tion give this full-bodied wine a richness that is
expressed in beautiful flavors of blackberry, blue-
berry and chocolate. All that lushness is wrapped
in a blanket of fine-grained tannins that creates a
velvety texture. Best through 2026. —J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $24
92 Indigené 2017 Parenthesis Syrah (Sta. Rita
Hills). Dense aromas of baked blackberry,
purple flowers, loamy soil, light smoke and cocoa
dust show on the nose of this bottling. The palate is
firm and concentrated, offering cassis and violet fla-
vors supported by strong acidity and a tight tannic
structure. —M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $45
92 Jermann 2017 Red Angel on the Moon-
light Pinot Nero (Venezia Giulia). All about
finesse, this linear, balanced red opens with allur-
ing aromas of red forest berry, graphite, smoke and
underbrush. The elegant palate boasts surprising
freshness for the scorching vintage, featuring juicy
strawberry, pomegranate, white pepper and star
anise. Silky tannins lend a smooth texture. Drink
through 2023. LUX Wines. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $35
92 Luke 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke
Slope). Aromas of fresh raspberry, bitter-
sweet chocolate and dried herb pop on the nose.
The palate is ripe, delicious, fruit filled and lip-
smacking, displaying a lot of density, intensity and
texture. Give this beauty a short decant if drinking
in the near term. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $25
92 Luke 2018 The Companion Red Blend (Colum-
bia Valley). This is a blend of 60% Cabernet
Sauvignon and equal parts Merlot and Syrah. Plum,
raspberry, chocolate and cherry aromas lead to an
explosion of blue- and red-fruit flavors on the pal-
ate. There is dazzling freshness, a spot-on sense of
balance and plenty of acid and tannin structure.
Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.2% Price: $22
WINEMAG.COM | 165
BUYINGGUIDE
92 Marchesi Antinori 2017 Villa Antinori Riserva
(Chianti Classico). Aromas of ripe dark-
skinned fruit, warm spice and blue flower mingle
with a balsamic whiff of menthol. The firm, medium-
bodied palate offers dried black cherry, licorice and a
hint of espresso alongside taut, fine-grained tannins.
Drink 2021–2027. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $35
92 Middle-Earth 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Nelson).
In addition to pineapple rind, red apple
peel and lemon verbena tones, this wine offers
gentle accents of warm stone and dried riverside
vegetation, too. The acidity is bright and zippy and
there’s lovely purity of fruit on the palate. This is a
youthful, vibrant wine that’s expressive of place and
variety, with an affordable price tag to boot. Copa
Fina Imports CA. Editors’ Choice. —C.P.
abv: 12.5% Price: $17
92 Midnight 2017 Titan Tannat (Paso Robles).
Aromas of smoked berry, roasting herbs,
cola spice and black plum skin carry the nose of
this bottling, which is a solid showing of this grape’s
Paso Robles potential. Rich flavors of black cherry,
cola and German chocolate cake show on the palate
alongside hints of coffee beans and smoked pork.
Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 15.9% Price: $49
166 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
92 Niner 2017 Heart Hill Vineyard Twisted Spur
(Paso Robles Willow Creek District). Intense
aromas of purple flowers, cassis and a hint of vanilla
wafer show on the nose of this blend of 37% Syrah,
29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot, 15%
Malbec and 4% Carmenère. There is firm tannic
framing to the sip, balanced by welcoming flavors of
currant and baking spice that soar across the palate.
Drink 2021–2030. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 14.9% Price: $75
92 Peachy Canyon 2018 Ms Behave Malbec
(Paso Robles). Dense aromas of black-
berry, ham, coffee and a hint of leather show on the
brooding nose of this bottling. The palate is loaded
with earthy and savory flavors of bloody meats and
tobacco, as sandy tannins frame the dark fruit fla-
vors. —M.K.
abv: 14.3% Price: $40
92 Peachy Canyon 2018 Mustard Creek Zinfan-
del (Adelaida District). Aromas of smoked
blackberry, fennel and oregano are intense but not
overripe on the nose of this bottling, which includes
11% Petite Sirah. Generous flavors of baked red plum,
rose petals and tea leaves lead into a graham cracker
finish, all framed in a delicate tension. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $42
92 Planeta 2018 Nocera (Sicilia). Elegant and
focused, this lithe red offers aromas of fra-
grant blue flower, wild red berry and Mediterranean
scrub. Made from vineyards overlooking the sea, the
savory, ethereal palate delivers juicy strawberry, sour
cherry, star anise and a saline note alongside glossy
tannins. Vibrant acidity adds even more energy to
the mineral tension. Taub Family Selections. Editors’
Choice. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $NA
92 Robert Biale 2018 Falleri Vineyard Zinfandel
(Calistoga). Thick, supple tannins wrap
around lifted tones of strawberry and raspberry
in this wine. From a site planted in 1924, it shows
the successful partnership between producer, site
and ideal vintage, finding balance and nuance that
impress. —V.B.
abv: 14.4% Price: $58
92 Ron Noble 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Petaluma
Gap). Stemmy and earthy, this intriguing
estate wine is lifted in red fruit, with persistent
accents of mixed dried herbs. From a relatively
cool site, it offers structure, lushness and length,
with bright acidity helping to keep it balanced and
poised. —V.B.
abv: 14.3% Price: $68

92 Shannon Ridge 2018 Buck Shack Small
Batch Red Wine (Lake County). This bold
and full-bodied wine boasts a superdeep color,
dense and concentrated blackberry flavors and a
firm structure. It has the power to stand up to a
juicy steak or roast, bolstered by fine-grained tan-
nins and filled in nicely by opulent black-cherry and
cassis flavors. —J.G.
abv: 15% Price: $35
92 Shannon Ridge 2018 High Elevation Collection
Zinfandel (Lake County). This full-bodied
and nicely structured wine offers a mix of ripe
blackberry and plum flavors, with light nuances
of dried sage and aged beef. It’s balanced, complex
and distinctive. —J.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $23
92 Simonnet-Febvre 2018 Chablis. Lemon zesti-
ness on the nose yields a sense of freshness
and ripeness at the same time. The palate manages
to be slender and sinuous despite the warmth of the
vintage and shows an uncommon tension. Paired
with the chalky, textured midpalate, this wine has
a sense of place, finishing with beautiful freshness.
Louis Latour Inc. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $25
92 Simonnet-Febvre 2018 Fourchaume Premier
Cru (Chablis). This wine’s shy nose needs
swirling to reveal subtle but ripe lemon notes. The
palate comes in with concentration and roundness,
displaying slightly bitter citrus pith. There is a phe-
nolic edge and a plush body, but the finish shows
the inherent zestiness. This wine needs time to
come into its own. Drink 2023–2030. Louis Latour
Inc. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $48
92 St. Supéry 2018 Virtú Estate Bottled Semillon-
Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). A blend
of 54% Sémillon and 46% Sauvignon Blanc, this
barrel-fermented white is crisp and sophisticated.
Flavors of pea shoot, dried herb, peach and green
apple mingle effortlessly on the palate, extending
long on the ample finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30
92 Undurraga 2015 T.H. Terroir Hunter Rarities
Garnacha-Cariñena-Monastrell (Cauquenes
Valley). Warm berry aromas include a dose of pave-
ment in this Mediterranean red blend. A shock of
bold acidity enlivens the palate and creates a sense
of racy crispness. Slightly charred black-fruit fla-
vors show hints of juniper and chocolate, while
this is jacked up and lifted across the finish. Drink
through 2023. Freedom Beverage Co. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $35
92 Zaca Mesa 2016 Mesa Reserve Estate Vine-
yard Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). Although
nearly five years old already, this bottle is still firm
and tight. Aromas of crisp elderberry, lavender,
white pepper and asphalt lead into a palate of black
pepper, violet and iodine flavors, proving intense
and still rigid. Drink through 2031. Cellar Selec-
tion. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $54
91 Bellenda 2017 Sei Uno Metodo Classico Rive di
Carpesica Extra Brut (Valdobbiadene Prosecco
Superiore). Dry and elegant, this vibrant sparkler
carries aromas of hawthorn, white stone fruit and
a whiff of almond. These tones follow through to
the crisp, clean palate along with yellow apple and
unsweetened lemon drop, accompanied by a refined,
continuous perlage. Specialty Cellars. —K.O.
abv: 11.5% Price: $30
91 Bonterra 2018 Made with Organic Grapes Mer-
lot (California). The black-fruit flavors in this
full-bodied and moderately tannic wine go deep
and broad, filling the palate with rich blackberries
and cherries. Hints of cocoa and dark chocolate add
interest and complexity, too. —J.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $16
WINEMAG.COM | 167
BUYINGGUIDE
91 Brady Vineyard 2018 Cabernet Franc (Paso
Robles). Blueberry and blackberry aromas
are spiced with black pepper, crushed rock and
loamy soil on the nose of this bottling. The palate
is tightly wound at first, slowly unfurling flavors
of dark fruit, smoked wood and more stone, all
wrapped in lingering tannins. —M.K.
abv: 15% Price: $26
91 Brady Vineyard 2018 Merlot (Paso Robles).
Dark berry, leather and pie crust aromas
show on the nose of this bottling by Don Brady,
longtime winemaker at Robert Hall Winery. The
palate is wrapped in tightly woven tannins and full
of seared beef and dark red-fruit flavors, with a hint
of lilac. —M.K.
abv: 15% Price: $24
91 Broken Earth 2017 Limited Release Grenache
(Paso Robles). Pinpoint aromas of pome-
granate and hibiscus candy are precise and inviting
on the nose of this bottling. Grippy tannins provide
ample structure to the sip, where a brisk raspberry
flavor is decorated with wild mint and sage. —M.K.
abv: 15% Price: $29
168 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
91 Lucas & Lewellen 2017 Cote Del Sol Valley
View Vineyard Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Pleasant aromas of dark
berry, toasted wood, coffee bean and roasted cocoa
show on the nose of this bottling. Chalky tannins
make for firm tension on the palate, where those
91 Cannonball 2018 Eleven Sauvignon Blanc (Dry
Creek Valley). Starting off with an inviting
stone fruit tone, this wine is cohesive and balanced
berry and cocoa tones ride fresh acidity into the fin-
ish. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $38
in style. Approachable and likable, it delivers lively
acidity and floral accents that work well with the
fruit richness. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $23
91 Marchesi Antinori 2017 Tenuta Tignanello
Riserva (Chianti Classico). Aromas of warm
spice, French oak, fruitcake and violet are front and
center. On the concentrated, firmly structured pal-
91 Crū 2019 French Camp Vineyard Viognier
(Paso Robles Highlands District). Broad aro-
mas of guava, melon, plumeria and jasmine show
ate, close-grained tannins envelop flavors of rasp-
berry jam, coconut and baking spice before a coffee-
bean close. Drink 2022–2027. Ste. Michelle Wine
on the nose of this bottling. The real reward is the Estates. —K.O.
incredibly lively palate, where fresh, zesty acidity abv: 14% Price: $45
delivers clean flavors of pear rind and guava. —M.K.
abv: 13.9% Price: $20
91 Mettler Family Vineyards 2018 Epicenter Old
Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). This spicy, generous
91 Dovecote 2019 Thompson Vineyard Estate
Grenache Blanc (Alisos Canyon). Very light in
the glass, this bottling offers white flower and honey
wine does a nice job of blending the baking spice
and maple notes of new barrels with jazzy raspberry
and strawberry flavors. Full bodied and just moder-
aromas alongside a mineral-driven edge. There is a ately tannic, it has a big personality. —J.G.
chalky structure on the sip, where Key lime sorbet abv: 14.7% Price: $25
and ripe nectarine flavors align. —M.K.
abv: 13.8% Price: $35
91 Mettler Family Vineyards 2018 Estate Grown
Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). This full-bod-
ied, rich and saturated wine offers abundant black
cherry, black olive and toasted oak flavors on a firm
texture of moderate, fine-grained tannins. It brings
a lot of sensory pleasure from its deep, dark color to
the velvety mouthfeel and baking spice accents that
linger on the finish. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
91 My Story 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso
Robles). Focused aromas of dried cherry, soy,
leather, smoked oak and coffee candy show on the
nose of this bottling. The mouthfeel is hearty and
full, carrying flavors of blackberry jam, coffee cream
and a generous helping of oak. —M.K.
abv: 13.7% Price: $17
91 Peachy Canyon 2018 Vortex Zinfandel (Paso
Robles). Aromas of dark berry, smoke, leather
and crushed black rocks show on the nose of this
bottling, which includes 9% Petite Sirah and 8%
Counoise. A baked boysenberry flavor meets with
dried fig and rock tones on the palate. —M.K.
abv: 15% Price: $44
91 Piper Sonoma NV Brut Méthode Traditionnelle
(Sonoma County). Combining 70% Chardon-
nay, 20% Pinot Noir and small amounts of both
Pinot Blanc and wine from an aged reserve blend,
this sparkler is fleshy and lush in an expansive
mouthfeel of fruit and texture. Gravenstein apple,
pear and a touch of honey highlight the midpalate,
building to a finish of toast and brioche. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $22
91 Quinta do Crasto 2017 Crasto Superior (D-
ouro). From a selection of grapes from the
quinta’s property up river in Douro Superior, this
wine is richly perfumed and structured. The tan-
nins blend into the juicy richness of the dark fruit,
but this fine, ripe wine needs some more time.
Enjoy from 2021. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $29
91 Retzlaff 2018 Estate Bottled Merlot (Liver-
more Valley). This expressive wine aged in
French oak barrels offers a spicy bouquet of mint,
cedar and cigar box followed by powerful and
focused black-cherry flavors. It’s all supported
nicely by fine-grained tannins. —J.G.
abv: 14.3% Price: $49
91 Retzlaff 2018 Family Reserve Old Vine Estate
Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Livermore Valley).
This smooth, oak-aged wine brings a bracing, toasty,
mineral aspect to the inherent citrus and melon fla-
vors, and does it while maintaining good balance
and freshness. It’s a delicious change of pace for a
Sauvignon Blanc. —J.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $42
91 Retzlaff 2014 Estate Bottled Merlot (Liver-
more Valley). Tempting accents of mint,
cedar and tobacco surround a solid center of black-
berry and black plum in this full-bodied and lightly
tannic wine made from organic grapes. It shows
some good wood-aged maturity and a satisfying grip
on the palate. —J.G.
abv: 14.4% Price: $36
91 Secret Vines 2016 The Original Tannat (Saint
Mont). Best known in nearby Madiran, Tan-
nat is also grown in Gascogny’s Saint Mont. This
wine offers a broad, rich texture that is still soft-
ening. The tannins typical of the variety are still
exerting an influence and firm grip alongside the
black plum fruits. Brickell Wines LLC. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
WINEMAG.COM | 169
BUYINGGUIDE
91 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2018 Artemis Caber-
net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). From a blend of
beautiful sites across the valley, including Arcadia
Vineyard in Coombsville and Rancho Chimiles in
Wooden Valley, as well as small amounts of grapes
from S.L.V. and Fay, this wine is inviting in dense
aromas of red fruit, caramel and brioche. With
dashes of Petit Verdot and Malbec, it finishes on
accents of tobacco and cedar. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $75
91 Undurraga 2019 T.H. Terroir Hunter Sauvignon
Blanc (Leyda Valley). A bright nose delivers
a shot of fresh lime backed by cilantro, vanilla and
sea spray. A sleek and juicy palate is cut by piercing
acidity, while lime, tangerine and tarragon flavors
wrap up on a cleansing finish. This shows all the
attributes of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc at its best.
Freedom Beverage Co. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $22
91 Vina Robles 2018 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). Aromas of roasted black
cherry, fig, caramel and milk chocolate make for a
rich and gooey entry to the nose of this appellation
blend. Lavish, creamy and smooth tannins frame
the sip, where roasted plum, fig and raisin flavors
are framed by a more rigid structure toward the fin-
ish. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $26
170 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
90 Astrolabe 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor-
ough). With a bit of time in the glass, this
reveals itself to be an aromatic bombshell. More
fruit driven than vegetal, it offers notes of lychee,
passion fruit, lime zest and peach, with a subtle
snow-pea aroma at the back. The palate is bright
and bouncy, with nicely concentrated fruit and tex-
ture. Share a Splash. —C.P.
abv: 13.5% Price: $22
90 Bartholomew Estate 2018 Estate Grown
Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley).
Earthy and thickly concentrated, this robust wine
is intensely flavored and dark. Tobacco, cedar and
clove flavors accent a core of rich blackberry, black
cherry and vanilla, finishing on a dusting of dark
chocolate. —V.B.
abv: 15% Price: $60
90 Bluewing Vineyards 2017 Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Sonoma County). This is a brawny,
approachable and likable wine, thick in tannin and
oak. Dark berry, cola, vanilla and a thread of last-
ing baking spice highlight the full-bodied, soft and
supple palate. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
90 Böen 2018 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara
County-Monterey County-Sonoma County).
This complex, full-bodied and generously oaked
wine offers attractive baking-spice aromas and
an abundance of pear, apple and honey flavors. It
brings a mouthfilling, smooth texture that’s under-
pinned by good acidity. —J.G.
abv: 14.4% Price: $25
90 Bonterra 2018 Made with Organic Grapes
Pinot Noir (Mendocino County). Cinnamon
and clove aromas lead to a juicy, well-concentrated
cherry flavor in this medium-bodied, fairly oaky
wine. Light tannins add to the grippy mouthfeel and
help pull the fruit flavors through the finish. —J.G.
abv: 13.8% Price: $18
90 Broken Earth 2019 Limited Release Fiano
(Paso Robles). This bottling begins with
clean, pleasant and yet strong lines of peach, apple
blossom and lime peel on the nose. There’s undeni-
able ripeness of guava and other tropical fruits on
the palate, but the texture is chalky and the acidity
is fresh. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 13.1% Price: $24
 90 Castoro Cellars 2018 Estate Grown Cabernet
Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Dark red berries,
cocoa and new leather aromas show on the nose of 90 Cuvaison 2019 Estate Grown Sauvignon
Blanc (Los Carneros). Lengthy and intense,

90 Carol Shelton 2019 Black Magic Late Har-

vest Zinfandel (Sonoma County). This des-
sert wine is made from a selection of vineyards and
blended with 15% late-harvest Petite Sirah. Vis-
cous and delicious, it delivers dense flavors of baked
cherry, vanilla and mocha that blend with balanced
accents of baking spice and oak. —V.B.
abv: 15.5% Price: $20/375 ml
this reliable bottling from a regional icon. There is
a hefty feeling to the chalky, sandy tannins, zippy
acidity and familiar flavors of dark red fruit, herbs
and turned earth. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
this estate-grown white is fermented entirely in
stainless steel and aged similarly for another six
months. Kiwi, honeydew and grapefruit combine
around a stony texture of grip and viscosity. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $24

90 Chacewater 2015 Petite Sirah (Lake County).

This is a well-concentrated, no-nonsense
90 Davis Bynum 2017 River West Vineyard
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Made
in a thick, full-bodied style with wide appeal, this

90 Castello Bonomi 2011 Cru Perdu Millesimato

(Franciacorta). Aromas of white spring
flower and white stone fruit form the subtle nose.
The vibrant, linear palate offers bread crust, orange
rind and ripe yellow apple alongside firm acidity
and a lively perlage. It closes on a note of bitter wal-
nut. Serendipity Wine Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $39
wine that is superfocused on black-fruit flavors and
laced with the typical blanketing tannins. While a
bit subdued now, it will come around with time.
Best from 2024–2034. —J.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $28
vineyard-designate wine opens with a green olive
tone and focused acidity. The midpalate delivers
more richness, effusive in toasted oak, vanilla and
crème brûlée. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25

90 Crū 2019 Jose’s Rosé (Central Coast). A dark

shade of pink in the glass, this ripe style
90 Dixie & Bass 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). The aromas of this wine
are ripe and fruitful, with blackberry and black

90 Castello di Neive 2016 Vigna Basarin (Dol-

cetto d’Alba). Aromas of violet, black-
skinned berry and spice emerge from the glass. The
vibrant, mouthwatering palate delivers crushed
blueberry, ground pepper and clove alongside pol-
ished tannins. An almond note marks the finish.
Enjoy through 2025. LLS–Winebow. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $19
of rosé begins with aromas of strawberry pie and
orange cream on the inviting nose. There’s a bright
sizzle of acidity on the sip, where more of those
cherry showing pleasing purity. There’s plenty
of density and intensity to the flavors. Editors’
Choice. —S.S.
strawberry and orange flavors arise. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $18
abv: 13.8% Price: $20

WINEMAG.COM | 171
BUYINGGUIDE
90 Domaine de la Rivière 2018 Next Door Neigh-
bor Chardonnay (Russian River Valley).
From the Lone Oak Vineyard next door to the pro-
ducer’s property, this wine has a rich, confectionary
opening on the nose. There’s a saltiness underneath
the oak, and it’s floral, earthy and well integrated
on the palate, with lasting flavors of pear, pineapple
and peach. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $62
90 Dovecote 2018 Quail Valley Vineyard Estate
Viognier (Los Olivos District). Tightly woven
aromas of dried lemon peel, ripe apple, a metallic
minerality and a touch of nuts show on the nose of
this bottling from Noah and Tamara Rowles’ back-
yard vineyard. There’s bright acidity on the palate,
where flavors of ripe apple, melon and a hint of
banana arise. —M.K.
abv: 14.9% Price: $35
90 Dutcher Crossing 2016 Pritchett Peaks
Zinfandel (Rockpile). From a site high
above Lake Sonoma, blended with small amounts
of Petite Sirah and Mourvèdre, this wine is juicy in
plum and dark cherry. With a soft, integrated struc-
ture, it builds complexity in the glass, contributing
savory notes of black pepper and clove. —V.B.
abv: 14.7% Price: $51
172 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
90 Lava Cap 2019 Estate Bottled Sauvignon
Blanc (El Dorado). Figgy aromas lead to
subdued but tangy flavors of green apple, mineral
and mild herb in this subtle, medium-bodied, well-
90 Hook or Crook 2018 Reserve Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Lodi). This stalwart, firmly tannic
wine wraps concentrated black-fruit flavors in a full
balanced wine. It’s not overtly fruity, but well worth
sipping for its complexity. —J.G.
abv: 14% Price: $20
body and grippy texture. It will dazzle with a juicy
steak or chop, and stay enjoyable through at least
2024. —J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $24
90 Le Garenne 2018 Red (Sancerre). Lightly
wood aged, this wine has weight and rich-
ness as well as juicy red-cherry fruits. A subtle
touch of spice accompanies the lifted acidity. Drink
90 Kopriva 2018 Ricci Vineyard Unoaked Char-
donnay (Carneros). Lemon rind, lime and
peach figure prominently on the palate of this
from 2021. Asgram LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $25
steely, unoaked wine. Light, bright and unfussy, it
has lifted acidity that keeps it laser focused and
lean. —V.B.
abv: 12.9% Price: $19
90 Les Tourelles de la Crée 2017 Premier Cru
(Montagny). Although the shy nose of this
wine gives little away, the palate shows a fleshy rich-
ness of fruit. Overtones of fresh pineapple cluster
around a nutty, rounded but fresh core. The finish
90 Lamole di Lamole 2016 Riserva (Chianti
Classico). Toasted nut and underbrush
aromas lead the nose along with whiffs of menthol.
has a touch of smokiness. Domaine Serene. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $45
The austere palate presents dried cherry, prune,
espresso and tobacco alongside notes of powdered
sage. Fine-grained tannins leave a drying finish.
Santa Margherita USA. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $25
90 Luca Bosio 2016 Barolo. Aromas of blue
flowers, baking spices and leather lead the
way in this firm red. The taut, linear palate offers ripe
black cherry, orange zest and star anise alongside
assertive, close-grained tannins that grip the close.
Drink after 2026. Quintessential Wines. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $45
90 Michael David 2018 Sixth Sense Syrah
(Lodi). Delicious and mouthfilling, this
full-bodied wine is drenched in jammy blackberry
and blueberry flavors on a rather soft and easy tex-
ture. The saturated fruitiness stays on the palate
through a lingering finish. —J.G.
abv: 15% Price: $18
90 Michael Pozzan 2018 Giapoza Cabernet
Sauvignon (California). This is a big yet
nicely restrained wine, backing its flavors of black
cherry and dark chocolate with moderate tannins.
Its appetizing texture slowly releases layers of depth
and flavor with time in the glass. Best through
2026. —J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $18
90 Pull 2017 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Paso Robles). Concentrated cherry,
crushed stone, silty dust and light oregano aro-
mas kick off the nose. The palate is rich and vis-
cous in black cherry, nutmeg and vanilla flavors,
which ride tight tannins and fresh acidity. Editors’
Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14% Price: $16
90 Quinta do Vallado 2018 Vallado Tinto
(Douro). Partially wood aged, this rich,
dense wine is smooth, maturing well but retaining
plenty of its ripe black-fruit flavors. It is a dense
wine that lingers on a blackberry flavor and lifted
acidity. Drink now. Quintessential Wines. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $23
90 Qupé 2018 Syrah (Central Coast). Though
founder Bob Lindquist is no longer part of
this winery, the brand still delivers value-driven
Syrah. Aromas of roasted meat, black pepper, lav-
ender and light berries kick off the nose, while the
savory palate blends pepper, crisp fruit and dried
herb flavors into an easy-to-quaff, light-bodied
expression. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
90 Rocca delle Macìe 2016 Riserva di Fizzano
Single Vineyard Gran Selezione (Chianti Clas-
sico). Subdued aromas evoking ripe black-skinned
fruit, toasted nut, new leather and violet form the
nose. The full-bodied palate features dried cherry,
chopped aromatic herbs and licorice alongside
fine-grained tannins. Drink sooner rather than
later to capture the remaining fruit. Palm Bay
International. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $65
90 Secret Vines 2018 Reborn Varietals Gros
Manseng-Petit Courbu-Arrufiac (Saint
Mont). In pursuit of its enlightened policy of finding
and developing old local and native varieties, this
producer has blended Gros Manseng, Petit Courbu
and Arrufiac into a fresh while also richly creamy
wine. Its sliced apple flavors shine out, bringing
acidity and ripeness. Drink now. Brickell Wines
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
90 Seven Deadly 2017 Red Wine (Lodi). Rich
licorice, plum and blackberry-jam notes give
this full-bodied wine more than enough fruit flavor,
while a velvety texture laced with fine-grained tan-
nins makes it smooth on the palate. —J.G.
abv: 15% Price: $16
WINEMAG.COM | 173
BUYINGGUIDE

BEST BUYS

89 My Story 2019 Chardonnay (Paso Robles).

Aromas of lime blossom and Key lime pie

90 Viña Chocalan 2017 Gran Reserva Origen Car-

menère (Maipo Valley). Olive and tomato
leaf aromas meld with pepper and blackberry at
the base of the nose. A plump, fleshy mouthfeel is
soft in the middle, while flavors of plum, tobacco,
tomato and thyme carry to a soft finish. Drink
through 2022. Chocalan USA. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $18
meet with a chalky restraint on the nose of this bot-
tling, whose label invites customers to write their
names on the front. Flavors of wet stone and lime
zest make for a delicate palate, where sharp acidity
cuts into the finish. —M.K.
abv: 13.4% Price: $17
91 Noble Vines 2019 242 Sauvignon Blanc (Mon-
terey). Crisp aromas of green apple skin,
cut grass and white flowers show on the nose of
this bottling, the latest in this numbered series of
affordable wines. It’s fresh on the palate in flavors of
lime peel, fresh grass and peach, framed by a tense
minerality that holds the ripe part in check. Best
Buy. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $13

89 Crū 2019 Albariño (Edna Valley). Aromatic

hits of apple blossom, bubblegum, melon
and tuberose show on the nose of this bottling.
There is compelling tension and sizzling acidity to
the sip, which is fresh although very ripe in tropical
flavors of papaya, mango and plumeria. —M.K.
abv: 13.9% Price: $20
88 Seven Deadly Zins 2017 Old Vine Zinfandel
(Lodi). This full-bodied, broad and choco-
laty wine tastes ripe and is quite mouthfilling. Fla-
vors of dried plum, milk chocolate and cedar make a
satisfying blend. —J.G.
abv: 15% Price: $16 90 Muirwood 2018 Merlot (Arroyo Seco). This
brand is consistently producing affordable
wines that punch above their weight class. This wine
begins with aromas of ash, chalk, red berry and light
BEST BUYS pomegranate. These tones continue to the palate,
with added streaks of stone, red currant and chalk
that hold firm into the finish. Best Buy. —M.K.
abv: 14.2% Price: $15

89 Michael David 2018 Freakshow Zinfandel

(Lodi). Full in feel and firmly structured,
this wine is a kind of gentle giant. It offers ripe but
not overt flavors of blackberry and blueberry, with
a well-polished texture despite the moderate tan-
nins. —J.G.
abv: 15.5% Price: $20
91 Four Vines 2019 Naked Chardonnay (Central
Coast). This unoaked bottling carries all
the tropical hallmarks of the style, starting with
jasmine and guava flesh on the nose. The palate is
generous in both acidity and flavor, showing pine-
apple, lychee, guava and stone fruit that linger into
the grippy finish. Best Buy. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $11
90 Noble Vines 2018 337 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). Polished and well balanced,
this flavorful and moderately tannic wine fits the bill
nicely for a well-priced Cabernet. It has a full body, a
concentrated black cherry flavor and subtle hints of
chocolate and vanilla. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $15

174 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

 BEST BUYS
89 Bliss 2019 Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc
(Mendocino). Crisp and lively, this wonder-
fully fruity wine lifts bright apple and citrus flavors
with good acidity for a refreshing, tangy expression.
Perfect for lunches and appetizers. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $14
89 Guenoc 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (California).
Subtle in flavor and well balanced, this
wine is a bit steely and mineral-like in aroma, then
brings light cucumber and honeydew melon flavors
to the palate. It will be a superversatile wine for
lunch or dinner. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $10
88 Castle Rock 2019 Pinot Noir (Mendocino
County). Fruity and savory flavors mingle
well in this full-bodied, smooth-textured wine. It
offers ample black-cherry and black-plum notes
along with hints of tasty mushroom and beef jus.
Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $12
BEST BUYS BEST BUYS
88 Montoya 2019 Chardonnay (Monterey).
Broad aromas of buttered peach, roasted
88 Chateau Souverain 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). This engaging wine is medium
weight for a Cab and shows authentic varietal char-
apple, sea salt and daffodil make for a pleasant entry
to the nose of this bottling. The palate is ripe in fla-
vors of poached apple and pear, with ample baking
acter in its savory, interesting mix of black olive, spice to keep it intriguing. Best Buy. —M.K.
black cherry and bell pepper flavors. Moderate tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $12
nins give it a velvety texture. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $10
87 Barefoot NV Sauvignon Blanc (California).
Lemon, lime and snap pea aromas lead to
88 Chateau Souverain 2018 Chardonnay (Cali-
fornia). This very good wine offers lots of
fruit flavor and a straightforward, slightly crisp
very fresh, vivid, herbal flavors in this light-bodied,
appetizing wine. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13% Price: $7
texture filled out by fresh apples and pear along-
side hints of oaky vanilla and white pepper. Best
Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $10
87 Mirassou 2018 Pinot Noir (California). This
smooth, gentle medium-bodied wine offers
a rich, soft texture and ripe cherry flavors accented
by a touch of cinnamon. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $12
88 Chateau Souverain 2018 Merlot (California).
Bold tones of chocolate, vanilla and mint
start this off. Black licorice and black cherry meld
on the palate in this full-bodied and moderately
tannic wine. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $10
WINEMAG.COM | 175
BUYINGGUIDE

BEST BUYS 92 Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy 2018 Terre de

Maimbray (Sancerre). This dense wine has
fine tannins that are still softening. Blackberry and
red cherry fruits shine with freshness and richness.
The elements have potential and will come together
further. Drink from 2022. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30
wine balanced as it develops. Drink from 2022.
Organic and biodynamic. Old World Imports LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $25
91 Lucien Crochet 2015 La Croix du Roy
(Sancerre). This perfumed, ripe wine is now
fully mature. Although the fruitiness may be dimin-

92 Pierre Prieur et Fils 2016 Domaine de Saint-

Pierre (Sancerre). This is a ripe, mature and
perfumed wine. Juicy fruits have softened into gen-
ished, the texture has softened and opened into a
smooth, structured, cherry-jam-flavored, wine.
Drink now. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —R.V.
erous tannins to produce a texture that is smooth abv: 13% Price: $32
but has a dry edge. Drink now. Vineyard Road. —R.V.

86 Barefoot NV Chardonnay (California).

Charred oak and butter aromas are followed
by ripe fruit flavors and more butter and toast.
This full-bodied wine is broad in mouthfeel, shows
plenty of oak influence and has a thick texture. Best
Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13% Price: $7
abv: 13% Price: $23
91 Michel Vattan 2018 B-C (Sancerre). Soft
and fruity, this wine has a texture that has
92 Roger et Didier Raimbault 2018 Vieilles
Vignes (Sancerre). Concentrated and dense,
this structured wine demands aging. Ripe black-
smoothed out into luscious blackberry flavors.
Acidity and a hint of pepper add further interest
to the forward fruitiness. Drink from 2021. Boivin
cherry flavors are threaded by dry, firm tannins and Selections. —R.V.
freshened by the juicy aftertaste. Drink from 2022. abv: 13.5% Price: $30
Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $65
91 Pierre Morin 2017 Sancerre. Produced from
several parcels of vines, this wine is ripe and

91 Alban Roblin 2018 Sancerre. After a year in

wood, this wine has developed a rich, lush
character that cushions the black fruits and softens
the tannins and acidity. The wine is ripe, balanced
and ready to drink. APS Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $30
smoothly textured. There is a succulent character
to the polished texture and balance between fruit
and the partial wood aging. Drink the wine now.
Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $27

91 Château de Sancerre 2018 Tradition

(Sancerre). This full, silky-textured wine is
packed with ripe cherry flavors and toasty notes
from wood aging. It is still developing but the juicy
90 Alphonse Mellot 2016 La Moussière
(Sancerre). This ripe wine is full of red-
cherry flavors broadened by the wood aging. Tan-
nins and juicy berry flavors are balanced, giving a
wine that is ready to drink. MS Walker. —R.V.

86 Castle Rock 2019 California Cuvée Pinot Noir

(California). A reduced, flinty aroma gives
character is already established. Drink this poised
wine from 2021. USA Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $52

way to pleasant fruit flavors and earthy overtones in

this medium-bodied wine. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
abv: 14.5% Price: $34
90 Clement et Florian Berthier 2018 Sancerre. A
perfumed wine with spice and bitter cherry
Price: $11
91 Clement et Florian Berthier 2016 La Croix
Renaud (Sancerre). Now mature, this ripe
wine has secondary undergrowth flavors, touched
flavors, this red offers a crunchy texture as well as
ripe fruitiness. It needs a few more months and will
be best from 2021. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V.
by mushrooms while still guarding some original abv: 12.5% Price: $27
black-cherry freshness. The wine is balanced and
ready to drink. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $40 90 Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et Fils 2018
Sancerre. A ripe, smoothly textured wine,
this is packed with black-cherry and red-berry fla-

91 Domaine Fouassier 2018 Sancerre. This per-

fumed, red-berry-flavored wine was wood
aged for a year. It is polished, rich in fruits, min-
vors. Tannins support the fruits and spicy struc-
ture. Drink from 2021. Integrity Wines GA. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $34
erality and light toast. The structure will soften
well over the next few months, so drink from 2021.
Organic. Opici Wines. —R.V. 90 Domaine Delaporte 2019 Chavignol
(Sancerre). In this rounded wine, generous

86 Chateau Souverain 2018 Pinot Noir (Califor-

nia). This full-bodied wine is smooth and
abv: 14% Price: $60 black-cherry fruits are balanced by acidity and a
light touch of tannins. This perfumed wine is open,
well behaved, offering generally ripe black-fruit fla-
vors, low tannins and a hint of baking spice. Best
Buy. —J.G.
91 Domaine Matthias et Emile Roblin 2018 Orig-
ine (Sancerre). A year in wood has given this
wine richness and a smooth texture to go with the
packed with fruit and a peppery edge. Drink the
wine from 2021. Vineyard Brands. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $36
abv: 13.9% Price: $10 smoky flavors. Red cherries and spice add complex-
ity to the wine that needs more time to soften. Drink
from 2022. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $35
90 Domaine Reverdy-Ducroux 2018 Beau
Regard (Sancerre). Packed with red-cherry
fruits, this softly textured wine is ready to drink.
Light tannins give a gentle edge to the acidity and

91 François Crochet 2018 Sancerre. This wine

exudes the richness that is now possible in
red Sancerre. Black-cherry fruits are dense, struc-
final fruitiness. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $21

tured but with the necessary acidity to keep the

176 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

90 Fleuriet Frères 2018 Renaissance La Magie
des Caillottes (Sancerre). Balanced struc-
ture and ripe cherry fruits are perfumed, making
this an open wine. Fragrant and fruity, with a bal-
anced tannic core, the wine is almost ready and will
be very drinkable from 2021. Vinifrance. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $30
90 Jean-Marie Reverdy et Fils 2018 Silex
(Sancerre). This ripe, almost mature wine
offers rich black-cherry flavors and a backdrop of
firm tannins. The ripe fruits have been smoothed by
a year in barrel, adding spice and a lightly toasty fla-
vor to the mix. Drink from 2021. TAP Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $20
90
abv: 13%
Le Garenne 2018 Sancerre. For full review
see page 172.
Price: $25
90 Roger et Didier Raimbault 2018 Sancerre.
Perfumed and elegant, this has soft tannins
to balance the red-berry flavors. Depth and concen-
tration come from the rich fruitiness, acidity and
the firm, dry core. The wine will be at its best from
2022. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $35
MENETOU-SALON
93 Domaine Pellé 2018 Morogues (Menetou-
Salon). This succulent, juicy wine has ripe
cherry flavors, generous tannins and freshness all at
the same time. Acidity and fruitiness hold the wine
together and promise aging. Drink from 2021. DB
Wine Selection. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $27
93 Domaine Pellé 2016 Le Carroir (Menetou-
Salon). Ripe and juicy, this perfumed wine
has a cool character to go with its black-cherry
flavors. Partial wood aging has added spice and a
smooth texture to the wine’s complexity. Drink from
2021. Polaner Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $29
93 Domaine Philippe Gilbert 2017 Les Chan-
delières (Menetou-Salon). Aged for two
years in barrel, this single-vineyard wine is just
approaching maturity. Rich tannins have softened
to bring in the ripe blackberry flavors and perfumed
acidity. The wine needs a little more time, so drink
from 2021. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. Cellar Selec-
tion. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA
91 Domaines Minchin 2018 La Tour Saint-Martin
Célestin (Menetou-Salon). This generous
wine is full of ripe black fruits. Tannins give a touch
of dryness but are already well integrated into the
ripe berry flavors. The perfumed aftertaste and
acidity hold promise for the future. Drink from
2022. European Cellars. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $29
90 Domaine Antoine van Remoortere 2019
Menetou-Salon. This young wine is full
of promise. Red-cherry flavors are enthusiasti-
cally bright and fruity, backlit by acidity and light
tannins. It should be ready to drink from 2022.
Winemonger. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $29
90 Domaine de l’Ermitage 2018 Clos de Davet
(Menetou-Salon). Black-cherry fruits and
soft tannins sustain this soft, warm wine that has a
juicy character. The texture and tannic edge give the
wine shape and will allow it to age further. Drink
from 2021. The Wine Source. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $35
90 Domaine Philippe Gilbert 2018 Menetou-
Salon. This dense wine is packed with rich
black fruits as well as tannins. It’s a sign of the new
wave of reds from this region, giving rich cherry and
berry flavors, touches of wood aging and some aging
potential. Drink from 2022. Organic. Rosenthal
Wine Merchant. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $28
90 Isabelle et Pierre Clément 2018 Classique
(Menetou-Salon). Short wood aging has
enhanced the perfumes of this smoky, ripe and fruity
wine. With acidity as well as red-berry flavors, the
wine is still buoyant, showing a firm layer of tannins.
Drink from 2021. World Wine Source. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $22
BURGUNDY
CHABLIS
98 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2018
Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos Grand Cru
(Chablis). While the nose on this wine has a rich
sense of creaminess and chalk, an insistent sense
of juicy Mirabelle and ripe lemon breaks through
with sheer exuberance. Something fresh-faced and
honest in that fruit expression seems aware of the
depth and seriousness of the wine. Despite the pro-
fundity, the wine conveys an eternal sense of joy.
Concentrated and generous, but also so cool and
linear, the wine is wonderful. Drink by 2040. Fred-
erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
97 Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit
La Moutonne Monopole Grand Cru (Chablis).
A subtle nose on this wine references chalk, lanolin
and lemon, drawing you in with a promise of depth.
Just as secretive, the palate presents pure lemon
essence from its depths of chalkiness. The wine is
concentrated and bright, with effortless elegance.
We will have to wait for this profound yet restrained
wine to reveal itself. Drink 2025–2040. Albert
Bichot USA. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $237
97 Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit
Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). Beautiful sub-
tlety on this wine’s nose recalls smoky lemon, citrus
pith and molten candlewax. The palate also holds
these notions, bolstering that lemony waxiness with
thick, layered chalkiness and pithy, mouthwatering
freshness. This is concentated and bold, offering
energy and drive, with a contradictory heat emanat-
ing from a cool core. A compelling wine, it needs to
calm down a little. Drink 2025–2040. Albert Bichot
USA. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $120
97 Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit
Vaudésirs Grand Cru (Chablis). Bright, tender
lemon and fragrant summer blossom give a sense
of delicacy to this wine’s chalky nose. The chalky,
concentrated and textured palate is also pervaded
by lemon zestiness that makes the mouth water.
Yet the wine also has generosity and lovely balance.
Richness and freshness are anchored in the stony
depth of the wine, making it a joy to drink. Over the
years the chalkiness will become even more pro-
nounced. Drink by 2040. Albert Bichot USA. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $122
97 Chanson Père et Fils 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru
(Chablis). This wine’s shy nose suggests
clear, molten wax. Waxy richness also plays on the
concentrated palate where everything seems com-
pact, bundled in richness and almost viscous. There
is ripeness but it is measured, and freshness that is
rounded. This wine needs time to come into its own,
with the chalky depth becoming even more evident.
Drink 2025–2040. Vintus LLC. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $120
97 Domaine Besson 2017 Les Clos Grand Cru
(Chablis). The merest touch of tomato leaf
precedes an intense nose of wet chalk. On the pal-
ate of this wine, that chalkiness gets stronger and
projects depth and cool freshness that is augmented
by lemony brightness. Elegant, expressive, fresh and
precise, it will become more and more of itself with
bottle age. Drink by 2040. Multiple U.S. importers.
Editors’ Choice. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $105
97 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2018
Les Clos (Chablis). A certain restraint gov-
erns the chalky, nutty and smoky nature of this
wine’s nose. Very slowly, a pure note of zesty lemon
comes through, illuminating the entire wine. Chalky
density, coolness and rich, buffered stoniness give
texture and concentration, made distinct by lemon
freshness. The wine already has harmony and poise
that will only increase over the years. It is elegant
and enduring. Drink 2025–2040. Frederick Wild-
man & Sons, Ltd. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
97 Domaine des Malandes 2019 Les Clos Grand
Cru (Chablis). Scents of hazelnut, smoke
and molten wax blend on this wine’s complex nose.
A sense of pure lemon oil hovers above. There is
something rich and concentrated here, edged with
lemon that is anchored in chalk. Texture and cool-
ness is everything here, despite the roundness and
generosity. This wine is beautifully fresh and bright.
WINEMAG.COM | 177
BUYINGGUIDE
Drink 2025–2040. Milton Road Trading Co. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $165
97 Domaine Laroche 2018 Les Blanchots Grand
Cru (Chablis). Creaminess on the nose of
this wine comes with the richness of crème fraiche
edged with lemon. A velvety palate enforces this
bright, mellow creaminess, layering it with chalky
coolness pervaded with zesty lemon. The round-
ness of 2018 is conserved in refreshing smoothness.
Depth is already hinted at on the long, smooth and
chalky finish. Drink 2025–2045. Wilson Daniels
Ltd. Cellar Selection. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $NA
97 Domaine Louis Moreau 2017 Les Clos (Cha-
blis). Hints of cool chalk and bright lemon
show on this wine’s shy but fresh nose. A whisper
of smoke accompanies the stony, wet-chalk notes.
Chalkiness is even more pronounced on the palate,
pervading texture and body, but also referencing
lemon zestiness and riper tangerine. Gorgeously
fresh now, this alluring wine is certain to evolve.
Drink by 2040. Winebow. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
97 J. Moreau & Fils 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru
(Chablis). Only a slight quiver of smokiness
intrudes on the wet chalk and lemon nose of this
wine. The palate is striking in its serenity and bal-
ance, an apt representation of the ripe 2018 vintage.
It offers immense juiciness but somehow, the age-
old limestone complexity takes the lead, affirming
that over the years, only depth will matter. Nonethe-
less, the wine has immense charm, smooth texture
and absolute freshness. Boisset Collection. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $108
97 Joseph Drouhin 2018 Drouhin Vaudon Bou-
gros Grand Cru (Chablis). Toasted hazelnut,
chalk plus the merest hint of summer blossom and
creaminess combine into a subdued but utterly
attractive nose on this wine. The palate has the
same sonorous and gentle texture, rich, layered and
giving a real sense of chalkiness. All is pervaded by
lemon freshness. The ripeness of 2018 is beauti-
fully managed here, manifesting itself in an elegant,
smooth and cooling wine. Drink 2025–2045. Drey-
fus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $110
97 Julien Brocard 2018 Les Preuses Grand Cru
(Chablis). A yeasty, funky, earthy and still
slightly reductive, flinty haze clouds this wine’s
nose for now. On the palate, however, three ele-
ments combine for deliciousness. The wine offers
the ripe juiciness of tangerine-tinged stone fruit,
cool, profound chalky depth and pervasive fresh-
ness. It has energy and animating verve. This little
genie in the bottle will work its magic over years.
Drink by 2040. David Bowler Wine. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $86
97 Roland Lavantureux 2018 Vaudésir Grand Cru
(Chablis). Chalk, wax, smoke and lemon are
intense on this wine’s nose, immediately conveying
178 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
that it is not about fruit but rather stone and place.
The same goes for the palate where a dense texture
redoubles on that chalk and smoke. But everything
is brightened and pulled into delicious focus by
lemon freshness. This wine has poise, elegance and
subtlety. Drink 2022–2040. Kermit Lynch Wine
Merchant. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
97 Simonnet-Febvre 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru
(Chablis). For full review see page 155. Cel-
lar Selection.
abv: 13% Price: $95
97 William Fèvre 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru (Cha-
blis). A subtle nose on this wine evokes
chalk made moist with ripe Amalfi lemon juiciness.
The palate plays these twin notions off each other
in a subtle, fresh way, despite the concentration
and depth. This wine is cool and zesty at its core
but generous and lightfooted at the surface. Allow
this to calm down and come forth with its compel-
ling core. Drink by 2040. Maisons and Domaines
Henriot. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $160
96 Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit
Les Blanchots Grand Cru (Chablis). This
wine’s nose opens with subtle apple freshness fol-
lowed by lemon brightness. The palate immediately
shows rounded, chalky depth, filling the mouth with
chalky yeastiness that is brightened and cooled by
lemon. The heat of 2018 is well managed in this
elegant wine, expressed in juicy ease but anchored
in cooling depth, with a subtle whisper of oak.
Drink 2025–2040. Albert Bichot USA. Editors’
Choice. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $108
96 Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit
Les Preuses Grand Cru (Chablis). A touch of
roast hazelnut lends richness to chalk and lemon on
this wine’s evocative nose. The palate also combines
richness and freshness, bedded on a concentrated
core of cool chalkiness. Lemon oil shimmers around
the edges, as does a slightly pithy bitterness that
makes the mouth water even more. This wine makes
you want to delve into its untold depth. It is certain
to reveal more and more of itself. Drink by 2040.
Albert Bichot USA. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $109
96 Clotilde Davenne 2017 Les Clos Grand Cru
(Chablis). A subdued note of wet chalk is the
first notion on this wine’s nose, which remains subtle
and smooth. The palate continues this deep sense of
chalkiness, pervading and illuminating it with vivid
lemon. This wine is compact in body but sonorous
in stature, shining with freshness and depth. Lovely
now, it is certain to evolve and remain fresh. Drink
now–2040. Bonhomie Wine Imports. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
96 Domaine Besson 2017 Vaudésir Grand Cru
(Chablis). An almost mossy green fresh-
ness streams from the glass, implying gentle, herbal
savoriness. The palate of this wine offers the same
effortless but insistent freshness. A flinty, stony
tone amid the chalk adds extra dimension, illu-
minated by lemon freshness. The sense of chalki-
ness and cooling depth is persistent and strong,
just what you are looking for in this sort of wine.
Drink now–2040. Multiple U.S. importers. Editors’
Choice. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $95
96 Domaine Billaud-Simon 2018 Les Preuses
Grand Cru (Chablis). Lemon, lemon flower
and white summer blossom are like a gentle caress
on this wine’s nose. The palate has the same buff-
ered gentleness and soft aroma, with a concentrated
midpalate that reveals texture and riper, juicier
stone fruit. A smooth finish offers long, lemon
freshness. Drink by 2035. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
96 Domaine Billaud-Simon 2018 Vaudésir
Grand Cru (Chablis). Toasty, nutty richness
lays itself like a warming blanket over this wine’s
nose, but underneath some ripe, lemon-edged
stonefruit peeps through promisingly. The palate is
still dominated by that toasty sheen, but it is only a
question of time before the vivid, concentrated fruit
integrates this, making the wine more of a unit. It
has rich texture, lovely depth, generous fruit and
ripe freshness. Drink 2025–2040. Frederick Wild-
man & Sons, Ltd. —A.K.
abv: NA Price: $NA
96 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2018
Valmur Grand Cru (Chablis). The appetizing
nose on this wine offers creamy, nutty and lemon-
scented freshness. The palate adds supersmooth,
juicy ripeness that suggests yellow apple, juicy
Mirabelle and a touch of honey from the ripeness
of 2018. There is wonderful freshness, however, and
cool, chalky depth that turns this into a balanced,
rounded, mouthwatering wine with real dimen-
sion. The finish is zesty and long. Drink 2022–
2040. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar
Selection. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
96 Domaine des Malandes 2019 Vaudésir Grand
Cru (Chablis). Almost blossomy aromas
precede pear, lemon and chalk notes on this wine’s
nose. The palate presents a full-blown cloud of lem-
ony, smoky chalkiness on a textured, smooth body.
A nutty echo of oak adds roundness. The finish is
smooth, bright with lemon and long with chalk.
Milton Road Trading Co. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $165
96 Domaine Jean Collet & Fils 2018 Valmur
Grand Cru (Chablis). The sonorous and
slightly nutty richness of oak for now dominates this
wine’s nose with its toastiness. The palate counter-
points that with rich and textured chalkiness, along
with smooth, soothing creaminess and bright lemon
freshness. This wine has elegance and harmony but
what really gets you is the vivid yet gentle freshness.
Drink now–2040 The Source. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
96 Domaine Pinson 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru
(Chablis). This wine’s open nose is an
unusual but attractive combination of ripe, juicy
orchard fruit and cool chalkiness. The palate adds
a rounded nutty dimension to the ripeness, with a
textured, smooth and rich core that allows glimpses
of limestone depth. All the concentration is lightly
worn and for now still clothed in fruit. The real
stony, chalky depth will show itself more with every
year of bottle age. Drink by 2040. Skurnik Wines,
Inc. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $80
96 Jean Durup Père & Fils 2017 Vaudésirs Grand
Cru (Chablis). An initial, greenish intensity
on this wine’s nose recalls tomato leaf but this notion
is soon displaced by creaminess and zesty lemon. On
the palate the freshness receives an extra dimension
of chalkiness and texture, offering smooth creami-
ness buffered by lemony brightness. This is a sinu-
ous, cooling wine with stony depth and resonance.
Gorgeous now, it will reveal even more of itself. Drink
now–2040. Linwood Wine and Spirits. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $NA
96
page 155.
Joseph Drouhin 2018 Drouhin Vaudon Vau-
désir Grand Cru (Chablis). For full review see
abv: 13.5% Price: $110
1/2 PAGE HORIZONTAL
96 Lamblin & Fils 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru
(Chablis). Initial, yeasty funk clouds bright
lemon, chalk and Mirabelle notes on the nose of
revealing cloak. It is elegant and lasting. Drink by
2040. Albert Bichot USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $68
this wine. The palate then moves that buffered,
textured chalkiness center stage. It offers generos-
ity and beautiful concentration, with a roundness
that speaks of lemon, stone, freshness and ripeness.
95 Chanson Père et Fils 2018 Les Preuses Grand
Cru (Chablis). A sense of reduction on this
wine’s nose expresses itself as just-extinguished
This wine is expressive, elegant and very long. V&N candlesmoke. Beyond that, waxiness suggests phe-
Cellars. —A.K. nolic richness. The rich palate is cloudlike in its
abv: 13% Price: $130 generosity. It offers yeast, chalk, lemon, roundness
and more of that phenolic, pleasantly bitter edge.
96 William Fèvre 2018 Les Preuses Grand Cru
(Chablis). Funky reduction still dominates
The finish is long and lasting. Drink by 2035. Vintus
LLC. —A.K.
this wine’s nose with yeasty fumes, but under-
neath bright lemon notes shine through. The palate
abv: 12.5% Price: $110
comes in with compact concentration and bundled
but buffered energy. Drive and verve are packed in
2018’s generosity, with a slender, bright core that
95 Chanson Père et Fils 2018 Montée de Ton-
nerre Premier Cru (Chablis). For full review
see page 156. Cellar Selection.
conveys mouthwatering refreshment. The chalky abv: 13.5% Price: $75
finish is long and fresh. Drink by 2035. Maisons and
Domaines Henriot. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $135 95 Domaine Alain Gautheron 2018 Bougros
Grand Cru (Chablis). Gentle oak on this
wine’s nose carries a smoky toastiness. On the pal-
95 Albert Bichot 2019 Domaine Long-Depaquit
Montmains Premier Cru (Chablis). Chalk,
ate, that toastiness blends with a ripe lemon streak
that cuts right through the body with luminosity
lemon and hazelnut make for a subtle aromatic trio
on this wine’s tender nose. The restrained palate
adds real depth and resonance, emphasizing it with
and freshness. Concentration and verve from that
lemon zestiness counterpoints the essential creami-
a smooth, chalky texture wrapped in a smoky but
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WINEMAG.COM | 179
BUYINGGUIDE
ness. It’s a rounded, sonorous wine. Drink 2025–
2040. Charles Neal Selections. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $108
95 Domaine Alain Gautheron 2018 Valmur
Grand Cru (Chablis). Roast hazelnut, slight
smoke and toasty richness fill this wine’s nose right
away. The palate is also full of smoky, resonant
richness that for now blankets the gentle, lemony
texture and freshness of the concentrated midpal-
ate and smooth texture. This wine needs time but
will always have that oaky bent. Drink 2022–2040.
Charles Neal Selections. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $108
95 Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen 2018
Blanchot Grand Cru (Chablis). A touch of
fresh, ripe lemon zest is all that peeps though on
this wine’s shy and closed nose. More air reveals
lovely hints of petrichor and chalk. The palate is
rounded and textured. Yeastiness and chalky depth
align themselves to bright, ripe lemon, and the lem-
ony chalkiness lasts beautifully. Drink by 2040. T.
Elenteny Imports. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
95 Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen 2018
Bougros Grand Cru (Chablis). A hazelnut-
like, slightly lemony creaminess feels like balm on
this wine’s subtle nose. The palate also has a sooth-
ing effect, with layered creaminess that is made
up of chalky depth, yeasty smoothness and gentle
pithiness. Despite the ripeness and slight warmth of
the wine, it has a cooling streak and tons of concen-
tration. Drink by 2040. T. Elenteny Imports. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
95 Domaine Daniel Dampt & Fils 2019 Les Vail-
lons Premier Cru (Chablis). Subtle hints of
reduction, wet chalk and yeasty funk play on this
wine’s nose, promising depth and longevity. The
palate reinforces these elements, adding a touch of
lemon fresheness. This wine is about about stone
and site—fruit barely gets a look-in, but that is not
necessarily a bad thing. It’s a wine for the long run.
Drink 2022–2040. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Cellar
Selection. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
95 Domaine Jean Collet & Fils 2018 Vaillons
Premier Cru (Chablis). Notions of moss and
green pear peel are bound up in an aromatic citrus-
oil richness on this wine’s expressive nose. The
palate comes in with the expected concentration.
This wine is energetic, yet anchored in cool depths
of limestone and chalk. It has a salty tang and the
allure of textured pear peel and citrus pith. Layers
of fruit and stone play off each other, leaving us to
witness and sense the pleasure. Drink by 2040. The
Source. Cellar Selection. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $NA
95 Domaine Laroche 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru
(Chablis). Just a touch of smoke intrudes
upon the lemon freshness and chalky depth appar-
ent on this wine’s nose. A hint of passion fruit lends
a tropical spin. The palate focuses on an almost
180 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
candied lemon richness and concentration that suf-
fuses itself with the chalky depth of the midpalate.
This wine is textured, rounded and generous, yet
highlighted by that lemon brightness. It’s a reso-
nant, rich wine that will evolve. Drink 2022–2040.
Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
95 Domaine Louis Moreau 2018 Vaillons Premier
Cru (Chablis). Hint of wet walnut skin and
flint are subtle but distinct on the slightly reduced
nose of this wine. The palate immediately poses
a thick layer of chalk with airy, salty depth. Fruit
almost does not come into it. This wine is all about
texture, soil, stone, coolness and salt. The concen-
tration and vividness are intense. Winebow. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $NA
95 Domaine Vincent Dampt 2019 Côte de Léchet
Premier Cru (Chablis). Ripe lemon peel, a
whisper of elderflower and cool, chalky depth create
an inviting nose on this wine. The palate has a simi-
larly light, aromatic touch on its smooth texture,
but also hints at depth and beautiful length. This
wine is sinuous, smooth, concentrated and satisfy-
ing. Drink slowly and let it happen to you. Skurnik
Wines, Inc. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $40
95 Garnier et Fils 2017 Vaudésir Grand Cru (Cha-
blis). Nutty, toasty but subtle notes of oak
come with a tinge of vanilla on this wine’s nose.
These are even stronger on the palate where evo-
lution already shows, with distinct notes of dried
fruit amid the chalkiness, wet earth tones and edge
of honey. Lemony freshness highlights all these ele-
ments, creating a lucid picture of concentration,
generosity and freshness. Drink by 2035. Martine’s
Wines. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
95 J. Moreau & Fils 2018 Blanchot Grand Cru
(Chablis). Notes of yeast, chalk, ripe Amalfi
lemon peel and white summer blossom unite into a
seductive, creamy nose on this wine. Toasty, oaky
smoke also hovers but is beautifully subdued. The
palate also encompasses these notions but focuses
on concentrated, stony depth and pithy texture. It’s
smooth, cool and bold. Give this elegant wine some
time. Drink 2022–2040. Boisset Collection. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $108
95 J. Moreau & Fils 2018 Mont de Milieu Premier
Cru (Chablis). This wine’s nose is a picture
of subtlety. Hints of blossom, chalk, pear and lemon
are so tender you feel you have to sniff again and
again. The palate becomes a picture of smooth,
gentle harmony and depth. Freshness, fruit, texture
and chalky depth make for a gorgeous constellation.
Boisset Collection. Editors’ Choice. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $53
95 Jean-Marc Brocard 2019 Butteaux Premier
Cru (Chablis). A hint of petrichor colors
this wine’s lemony, bright nose with a stony allure.
The palate dresses this lemony richness in nutty,
rounded smoothness without denying its mouth-
watering essence. The midpalate is buffered, chalky
and intense, with reverberating richness and fresh-
ness that makes this wine a real joy. Multiple U.S.
importers. Editors’ Choice. —A.K.
abv: 14% Price: $47
95 Jean-Marc Brocard 2018 Bougros Grand Cru
(Chablis). Lemon oil, flint and creaminess
unite on this wine’s subtle nose. The palate comes
in with a rounded, creamy presence that combines
yeasty richness, textural charm and chalky depth
with the ripeness and freshness of lemon oil. This
wine is concentrated, energetic and bold, channel-
ing its drive towards a lasting finish that lets lemon
and chalk speak clearly. Drink 2025–2045. Mul-
tiple U.S. importers. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $70
95 Jean-Marc Brocard 2018 Valmur Grand Cru
(Chablis). Reductive smokiness still clings
to lemon and yeast notes on this wine’s nose. The
palate has smoky allure from oak, with a textured
midpalate that speaks of yeast, citrus pith and
depth. Chalky concentration spreads cooling fresh-
ness despite the year’s ripeness. While this wine
is rounded and sonorous, it is also vivid and fresh,
with a lemony, chalky and textured finish that lasts.
Drink 2022–2040. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $70
95 Lamblin & Fils 2018 Vaudésir Grand Cru (Cha-
blis). A slightly funky nose on this wine
mixes yeastiness, lemon and earthiness but also
comes with a lift of freshness. The palate conveys
lemony, creamy purity, with a free-flowing, smooth
joyousness that seems bedded in chalky profun-
dity. Sonorous ease belies the depth of this elegant
wine with astonishing, lemony length. Drink 2022–
2040. V&N Cellars. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $130
95 Louis Jadot 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru (Cha-
blis). Vivid, creamy, lemony chalkiness dom-
inates this wine’s nose. On the palate, these notions
are joined by subtle, rounded nuttiness and a sense
of generosity and ripeness. Real concentration and
texture at the core has chalkiness and a pithy tang
that makes the mouth water. The finish is long and
insistent. Drink 2022–2040. Kobrand. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
95 Simonnet-Febvre 2018 Preuses Grand Cru
(Chablis). Scents of green apple and sum-
mer blossom play above the chalky nose of this
wine, promising a gentle touch. The palate is con-
centrated and buffered with layers of chalkiness and
yeast, all brightened by lemon. Texture, chalk and
roundness are the chief markers here that will serve
the wine well for the future. Drink by 2040. Louis
Latour Inc. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
95 William Fèvre 2018 Bougros Côte de Bou-
guerots Grand Cru (Chablis). Hazelnut-
like smokiness folds itself around lemon notes on
this wine’s creamy nose. The palate comes in with
rounded pear, portraying the juicy ripeness of 2018
but grounding it in layered, yeasty, chalky and smoky
depth. Oaky nuttiness adds extra dimension while
lemon freshness makes for luminous length. Drink
by 2045. Maisons and Domaines Henriot. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $140
95 William Fèvre 2018 Bougros Grand Cru (Cha-
blis). Cooling, mossy chalkiness plays on
this wine’s nose, despite the heat of 2018. The pal-
ate then displays juicy roundness in the form of ripe,
yellow pear pervading chalky depth. Rich lemon-
peel notes create contour and add mouthwatering
brightness to this concentrated, understated wine
that comes with subdued but distinct power. Drink
2025–2045. Maisons and Domaines Henriot. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $130
RHÔNE VALLEY
CÔTE-RÔTIE
96 Domaine Christophe Pichon 2017 La Com-
tesse en Côte Blonde (Côte-Rôtie). Packed
with pristine black cherry and raspberry flavor,
this medium-bodied Syrah is a gloriously perfumed
expression of Côte Blonde. It’s sunny and charm-
ing in fruit profile but elevated by subtle hints of
fur, crushed earth and charred bramble, too. While
tempting in its youth, it should gain complexity
well past 2030. Wade & Clark Wine Imports. Cellar
Selection. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $85
95 Domaine Martin Clerc 2017 Coteau de Tupin
(Côte-Rôtie). Radiant notes of black rasp-
berry and black-cherry preserves are accentuated
by complexities of violet, crushed granite and clove
in this pure-fruited, supple wine. Matured for 18
months en barrique (20% new), it’s a hedonistic,
spicy sip but briskly structured, too, held upright by
piercing acidity and firm, gripping tannins. Lovely
already but should improve through 2030 and hold
further. Shiverick Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 13.8% Price: $71
95 Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 L’Eglantine (Côte-
Rôtie). Pronounced notes of char and vanilla
but also fur and black olive perfume this complex,
intriguing Syrah. Blackberry and cherry flavors are
sultry on the palate but offset by tart cassis acidity
and a bristling granitic finish. At peak 2021–2030
but should hold further. Sera Wine Imports. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $60
95 Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 Montmain (Côte-
Rôtie). A cooling spine of granite lends
freshness to pristinely ripe black currant and rasp-
berry flavors here. It’s a delicate, finessed Syrah—
more ballerina than powerhouse—but penetrating
in fruit. Whispers of smoke, licorice and peppery
herbs linger on the finish. At peak 2021–2030 but
should hold further. Sera Wine Imports. Editors’
Choice. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $85
94 Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux 2017
La Germine (Côte-Rôtie). La Germine is
this producer’s midrange Côte Rôtie offering rely-
ing on older vines than La Chana, and a touch less
new oak than the Maison Rouge. It’s a gorgeously
pure-fruited expression of cassis and black cher-
ries edged by perfumed notes of lilac, dried thyme
and anise. Intensely concentrated and silken on the
finish, it’s lovely young but should improve through
2030 and hold further still. Fruit of the Vines, Inc.
Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $90
94 Domaine Christophe Billon 2017 Les Elotins
(Côte-Rôtie). Whispers of fur, charcute-
rie and smoke lend savory complexity to luminous
cassis and mulberry flavors here. A blend of 97%
Syrah and 3% Viognier sourced from schist and
mica slopes, it’s boasts a gleaming acidic spine and
fresh, mineral undertone that are revitalizing. Rich,
chewy tannins should meld with time and while
appealing already, it’s a wine that should peak from
2021–2030 hold further still. Fass Selections. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $55
94 Domaine Christophe Pichon 2017 Rozier
(Côte-Rôtie). Sourced from 50-year-old
vines planted on schist soils, this is a gloriously
concentrated Syrah packed with luminous cas-
sis and blackberry flavors. Prominent oak tones of
smoke, vanilla and cacao are balanced by pristine
fruit and a bristling acidic edge. It’s lovely in its
youth but should develop depth and complexity
through 2030 and hold further still. Wade & Clark
Wine Imports. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $50
94 Ravoire et Fils 2017 Olivier Ravoire (Côte-
Rôtie). Pronounced violet perfume accents
blackberry and black currant flavors in this satin-
edged Syrah. Matured for 18 months in new and
one-year-old French oak, it’s a lavish wine streaked
by veins of vanilla and smoke but crisp acidity and a
flurry of green herbs lend freshness to the mid pal-
ate. Firm, gripping tannins need some time to meld
but it should be at peak from 2021–2030. Wine
Warehouse Imports. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $80
94 Vignobles Verzier 2017 Indiscrète (Côte-
Rôtie). Savory, herbaceous notes of dried
violets, bramble and charred underbrush lend
elegance to ripe, restrained black cherry and cas-
sis here. This is a slender, sylphlike Syrah with a
pert acidic spine and slightly green tannins that
lend a peppery bite to the finish. Should reach peak
from 2021–2030 but hold longer as well. Beaune
Imports. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
93 Domaine B. Burgaud 2017 Côte-Rôtie.
Intriguing whiffs of fur, charred earth and
violet perfume this freshly concentrated Syrah made
from destemmed grapes and vinified with native
yeast. It’s a refreshingly classic, spry expression of
Côte Rôtie compared with increasingly richer, riper
WINEMAG.COM | 181
BUYINGGUIDE
ones. The long finish is marked by velvet, persistent a vibrant, freshly composed Syrah. Two years of Approachable already but should improve through
tannins. Lovely already but should improve through maturation in oak barrels (50% new) accentuate 2030 and hold further. Sera Wine Imports. —A.I.
2027. Martine’s Wines. —A.I. its rounded mouthfeel and fine-grained, softly tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $50
abv: 13% Price: $55 nic finish. Should improve through 2037 and hold

93 Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux 2017

Maison Rouge (Côte-Rôtie). Hints of toast,
cinnamon and bramble mingle into ripe black rasp-
berry and cassis flavors here. Matured 20 months en
barrique (40% new), it’s a softly edged, delicately
textured sip that falls on smooth, feathery tannins.
Approachable in youth but should gain complexity
through 2030. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $125
further. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $70
95 Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 Les Eygats (Cor-
nas). Radiantly ripe black plum and black
cherry notes are muted by hints of earth, leather
and ore in this richly tannic, mouthfilling wine
sourced from high-altitude sites above the village
of Cornas. It’s glossy, perfumed style is enticing in
its youth but should show even better from 2022
and improve well through 2037. Sera Wine Imports.
93 Cave de Tain 2017 Arènes Sauvages (Cor-
nas). Maturation in new French oak lends
prominent accents of char, vanilla and nutmeg to
this glossy, black fruited Syrah. It’s a flamboyant,
intensely luscious sip packed with crème de cassis
and mulberry flavors, but precisely composed, too.
Youthful fruit flavors are immediately hedonistic,
but the coarse, gripping tannins should meld better
through 2030. Hand Picked Selections. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $100

93 Domaine de Bonserine 2017 La Sarrasine

(Côte-Rôtie). A blend of Syrah (and 3%
Viognier) sourced from seven different plots of
Côte Rôtie, this is a slender, silken sip packed with
juicy black raspberry and cherry flavors. It’s an
immediately approachable, fresh-fruited wine but
maintains classic nuances of smoke, bacon fat and
crushed earth. The finish is marked by fine, feath-
ery tannins. Best now–2030. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $75
Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $55
95 Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 Les Grands Mûri-
ers (Cornas). Pure, unadulterated cassis
and blackberry extend from nose to finish in this
intensely concentrated Syrah. Made from partially
destemmed grapes, it’s rich and glossy but shaded
by hints of dark earth, granite and leather. Ripe,
integrated tannins seem coated in cocoa pow-
der and chalk. Approachable already but should
improve through 2030 and hold further. Sera Wine
93 NewRhône Millesimes 2017 Romain Duver-
nay (Cornas). Roasted plum and black cherry
compote are accented by whiffs of sweet spice and
autumn leaves in this powerfully concentrated
Syrah. Moderately full in body, it’s opulent but sub-
tly earthen, too, and finishes on ripe, mouthfilling
tannins. Approachable already yet should improve
through 2027. Z Wine Gallery Imports. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $60
92 Domaine des Remizières 2017 Cornas. This is
a bit closed upon opening, suggesting more

93 Domaine Martin Clerc 2017 Collet (Côte-

Rôtie). Intensely ripe, luscious cassis and
mulberry flavors maintain the same perfumed, spicy
tone of this producer’s Coteau de Tupin bottling, but
there’s a breathtaking freshness here accentuated
by a pleasantly green, herbaceous tone. It’s a mod-
erately full-bodied, freshly concentrated sip that
finishes on fine, feathery tannins. Ready now but
should hold through 2030. Shiverick Imports. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $66
Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $62
earth and smoke than fruit, but some time and aera-
tion coax out ripe, rich notes of black cherry and
plum compote. It’s a soft, fleshy Cornas accented by
94 Alain Voge 2016 Les Vieilles Fontaines (Cor-
nas). Whispers of violet, licorice and granite
extend from nose to finish in this moderately full,
hints of smoked nut and leather anise and coated
in soft, yielding tannins. Approachable now but
should hold through 2027. French Libation. —A.I.
succulent red. It’s a gloriously ripe, finessed expres- abv: 14% Price: $60
sion of 80-year-old Syrah planted on granitic slopes.
Plump and penetrating, it finishes on chalky, mouth-
filling tannins. Quite lovely in youth but should
improve through 2027. Citadel Trading. —A.I.
92 Éric & Jöel Durand 2017 Empreintes (Cornas).
Flavors of spicy black cherry compote and
baked plums abound in this rich, almost fleshy

92 Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux 2017 La

Chana (Côte-Rôtie). Sourced from young
Syrah vines (15–20 years old) planted on a bedrock
of gneiss, this is a fresh, pertly composed red. Black
currant and cassis flavors are pure and pristine,
edged by whispers of anise and black pepper and
fine, feathery tannins. A youthful, vibrant style of
Côte Rôtie to enjoy now–2030. Fruit of the Vines,
Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $80
abv: 14.5% Price: $165 expression of Cornas. Aged in 20% new barriques,
it’s a soft, open-knit Syrah framed by silky tannins
94 Domaine Christophe Pichon 2017 Allégorie
(Cornas). Sourced from Syrah grown on
high-altitude granite slopes, this moderately full-
and lingering whiffs of earth and scorched under-
brush. Approachable now but should hold through
2027. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I.
bodied, silken wine offers scintillating black plum abv: 13.5% Price: $39
and cassis flavors edged by smoke, earth and iron. It’s
a rich, satisfying wine that’s briskly balanced in acid-
ity and framed by fine, penetrating tannins. Lovely
already but should gain complexity through 2030.
92 Éric & Jöel Durand 2017 Prémices (Cornas).
Ripe, luminous plum preserve and cas-
sis liqueur abound in this supple oak-aged Syrah.
Wade & Clark Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. Sourced from younger vines (15–30 years old), it’s a

92 Gabriel Meffre 2017 Laurus (Côte-Rôtie). A

balanced blend of Côte Brune’s power and
Côte Blonde’s sunny charm, this medium-bodied
but luscious Syrah calibrates smoky, slightly meaty
complexities against pristine blackberry and rasp-
berry flavor. It’s a juicy, immediately enjoyable wine
accentuated by soft, feathery tannins and a linger-
ing whisper of ore. At peak through 2030. Vision
Wine & Spirits. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $63
CORNAS
abv: 14% Price: $60 fresher, more primary expression of Cornas than the
producer’s Confidence or Empreintes bottlings. It’s
94 Éric & Jöel Durand 2017 Confidence (Cornas).
Whispers of leather saddle, charred earth
and smoke penetrate this uniquely rustic Syrah aged
ready to enjoy in its youth but should hold through
2027. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $32
18 months in 30% new barriques. Flavors of black
plum and blueberry preserves are intensely concen-
trated but freshened by a firm, granitic undertone PORTUGAL
and coarse tannins. Approachable now but should
improve through 2030. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. FORTIFIED WINES
abv: 13.5% Price: $51
PORT
94 Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 Patou (Cornas).
Whiffs of violet candy and licorice lend gor-
98 Quinta do Crasto NV Honore Very Old Tawny

95 Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet 2016

Cornas. Hints of bramble, cacao and anise
lend spice to penetrating blackberry and blueberry
here. Sourced from high-altitude granite soils, it’s
geous perfume to mulberry and cassis here. Made
from Syrah sourced from a fully south facing, gran-
ite slope, it’s decadently ripe but luminous. Rich,
Port. This is an extraordinary wine. It was
created from a blend of very old tawnies (the oldest
estimated to date from 1873). The resulting wine,
ripe tannins envelope a long, penetrating finish. amazingly perfumed and with a texture like liq-

182 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

uid lavender honey is stunningly full of life. What
shows most strongly are the perfumes, the intensely
floral character and the poise between acidity, wood
aging and freshness. It has been bottled in Portu-
guese crystal decanters. Drink now. Folio Fine Wine
Partners. —R.V.
abv: 20% Price: $8,500
98 Taylor Fladgate 2018 Vintage Port. This is
an exceptional vintage, most unusually the
third in a row from this producer. Intensely per-
fumed, richly structured with dark-black fruits,
concentrated tannins, it is set for seriously long-
term aging. The power of the wine, based around
the producer’s Quinta da Vargellas, is magnificent.
Drink this major Port from 2029. Kobrand. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 20% Price: $120
97 Kopke 1940 Colheita Tawny Port. The seem-
ingly inexhaustible supply of amazing
old tawnies from this producer must surely have
reached its apogee in this magnificent Port. Intense,
both sweet from the original fruits and dry with the
80 years of wood aging, the wine still has raisin and
dried prune flavors as well as the wonderful con-
centration. Like all old tawnies, this wine is ready
for sipping. Wine In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 20% Price: $820
95 Kopke 1981 Colheita Tawny Port. The beauti-
ful old gold color of this wine sets the scene
for a Port that is rich, lusciously sweet but also shot
through with acidity. It is this balance that makes
for a gorgeous wine, ripe and fresh, rich and mature.
Drink now. Wine In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 20% Price: $90
95 Kopke 1960 Colheita Tawny Port. Bottled
after 60 years in wood, this Port shows
extraordinary intensity. It has kept plenty of rich-
ness from the original fruitiness, but it is the old gold
and wood flavors that bring out concentration and
the bite of spirit that opens up the palate at the end.
Drink this fine wine now. Wine In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 20% Price: $330
95 Kopke 1940 White Colheita Tawny Port.
Although this is a white Port from white
grapes, those 80 years in wood have transformed
the color into light gold. Beautifully aromatic, this is
a sipping wine, a meditation wine, with its extreme
concentration, almost shocking acidity along with
rich sweetness. It’s a rare experience, happily ready
to drink now. Wine In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 20% Price: $950
95 Quinta do Vallado 2018 Vintage Port. For full
review see page 157.
abv: 19.5% Price: $110
94 Croft 2018 Quinta da Roeda Vintage Port.
Croft’s showpiece estate at Pinhão always
forms the base of the producer’s Vintage Ports.
Here it shines on its own in a wonderful perfumed,
richly textured wine. In a dry style, the wine goes
for richness and nutty, dried raisin flavors. With its
structure, it will certainly age. Drink from 2028.
Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 20% Price: $50
94 Fonseca 2018 Guimaraens Vintage Port. This
is a beautiful, luscious wine. It has all the
characteristics of a fine Vintage from this producer,
with richness and opulence masking powerful tan-
nins. Here, though, is a Port that will also develop
relatively quickly. It is likely to be ready from 2027.
Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 20% Price: $58
94 Kopke 1980 Colheita Tawny Port. Ripe,
sweet and with a toffee and caramel char-
acter, this is a smooth, generous Port. Its intensity
comes from the concentration of fruit and the 40
years of wood aging that match it. This is a full,
mellifluous wine, rich and ready to drink. Wine
In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 20% Price: $100
94 Ramos-Pinto NV RP 30 Tawny 30 Years
Port. This Port is a triumph. Its age and its
concentration are on one side of an equation that
brings out the elegance of the style of this producer
and the balance of sweetness, dark-toffee flavors
and acidity are on the other. The wine is very ready
to drink. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.
abv: 20.5% Price: $115
93 Kopke 2000 Colheita Tawny Port. This
wood-aged tawny is still fresh, boasting
fruit as well as old-wood maturity. It has ripeness
shot through with intense acidity. With its richness
and balance between raisin and red fruits, the Port
is perfectly ready to drink. Wine In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 20% Price: $50
93 Quinta do Crasto 2000 Colheita Tawny
Port. An especially dark and dense Colheita
Tawny, this has great richness and a fine balance
between the fruit and the wood-aging flavors.
Dates, prunes and blackberry flavors mingle with
nuttiness, spice and a fine end of acidity. Drink this
Port now. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 20% Price: $58
93 Ramos-Pinto NV RP 20 Quinta do Bom Retiro
Tawny 20 Years Port. This quinta, in the
heart of the Douro Valley vineyards, has produced
an elegant Port, ripe and finely balanced. Its opu-
lent texture gives it a smooth feel, lifted by the
dried fruit, spice and freshened by acidity. This is
a delicious wine to drink now. Maisons Marques &
Domaines USA. —R.V.
abv: 20.5% Price: $73
92 Kopke 2001 Colheita Tawny Port. As one of
a series of great, aged tawnies released by
Kopke, this Colheita is still quite young. It has just
hints of the freshness of red fruits that are now
endowed with intense acidity, old-wood flavors and
great concentration. Dried fruits show through the
bite of spirit and the mellow aftertaste. Drink now.
Wine In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 20% Price: $35
WINEMAG.COM | 183
BUYINGGUIDE
91 Ramos-Pinto 2015 Late Bottled Vintage Port.
This is a beautifully perfumed wine. With
its violet aromas and rich floral flavors, it has both
structure and great balance. Black fruits, sultanas
and a poise between richness and great fruits, the
Port is still young and will benefit from a few more
months. Drink from 2021. Maisons Marques &
Domaines USA. —R.V.
abv: 19.5% Price: $24
90 Borges 2018 Vintage Port. This Port is from
a vintage that is proving to be of great qual-
ity. The wine has layers of black fruits and dried
berries. It is in a sweet style of Vintage, with its
jammy black-plum and prune flavors. It is possible
to drink this wine soon, certainly from 2022, but it
will also age well. JMV USA. —R.V.
abv: 19.5% Price: $52
90 Poças 2018 Vintage Port. A special edition
bottling to celebrate the 100th anniversary
of the producer, the wine is packed with sweet dried
fruit, generous tannins and great opulence. The
wine’s structure will allow it to age well, but it has
enough richness to be ready soon. Drink from 2022
or age for many years. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 19.5% Price: $100
90 Quinta do Crasto 2015 LBV Late Bottled
Vintage Port. Aged in wood for years before
bottling, this fine, mature wine boasts rich tannins
that have opened into the ripe prune and date fla-
vors. The wine has a sweet profile and is generous
and softly textured at the end. Drink now. Folio Fine
Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 20% Price: $26
90 Ramos-Pinto NV RP 10 Quinta da Ervamoira
Tawny 10 Years Port. This quinta, in the
upper reaches of the Douro Valley is spectacularly
situated near the prehistoric rock paintings of Foz
Coa. The Port, still poised between fruit and oak
aging shows prunes, black plums and fine acidity,
with a bite of spirit. It is easily ready to drink. Mai-
sons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.
abv: 20% Price: $40
MADEIRA
96 Blandy’s 1920 Medium Rich Bual (Madeira).
Dark gold-green, this 100-year-old wine is
extraordinary in its age and its flavors. The concen-
tration is immense, sweetness vying with the most
intense acidity in a welter of flavors. Such is its
focus that it is for sipping rather than drinking—a
wine for amazed meditation. Drink now. Premium
Port Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 20% Price: $2200
96 Cossart Gordon 1975 Terrantez (Madeira).
This rarest grape variety on Madeira has an
awesome ability to age, with 200-year-old examples
still full of fruit. That makes this 45-year-old wine
almost youthful. It is off dry, with shocking inten-
sity and concentration. Touches of sweeter toffee
come through the acidity and old-wood flavors. This
184 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
is an extraordinary experience. Now it has been bot-
tled, the wine will not age further. So savor now.
Vineyard Brands. —R.V.
91 Giribaldi 2016 Matteo Giribaldi (Alta Langa).
Delicate scents evoking white stone fruit,
underbrush and spring flower mingle with whiffs
abv: 21% Price: $388 of bread dough on this 60% Pinot Nero and 40%
Chardonnay. Elegantly sparkling, the linear palate
95 Blandy’s 1976 Verdelho (Madeira). The old
gold color presages an intense wine. Acidity
balances the smokiness and the candied orange-zest
doles out mature yellow apple, hazelnut, botanical
herb and citrus zest alongside crisp acidity. CTS
Distributing. —K.O.
flavors. Medium dry in concept, it is a concentrated abv: 13% Price: $28
wine that brings the essence of its flavors together.
Drink this wine now. Tasted 375ml. Premium Port
Wines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 21% Price: $375
91 San Silvestro 2015 Dosaggio Zero (Alta Langa).
A blend of 70% Pinot Nero and 30% Char-
donnay, this has delicate scents of white stone fruit
and bread crust. The elegantly sparkling palate
92 Cossart Gordon 2008 Colheita Single Har-
vest Verdelho (Madeira). For full review see
page 164.
offers yellow apple, ginger and of citrus alongside a
refined perlage. It closes on a hint of white almond.
More Than Grapes. —K.O.
abv: 19% Price: $48/500 ml abv: 13% Price: $30
90 Miles 1998 Tinta Negra Mole (Madeira).
Produced from the chameleon grape of
Madeira that has the ability to produce many styles
FRANCIACORTA
of wine, this matured, wood-aged wine has sweet-
ness as well as the acid intensity typical of aged
Madeira. It is a beautifully textured wine that is
94 Berlucchi 2012 ’61 Nature Dosaggio Zero
(Franciacorta). Bone-dry and elegant, this
polished sparkler has aromas of spring wildflower,
ready to drink. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. honey, white stone fruit and bread crust. On the
abv: 21% Price: $154 vibrant palate, a silky perlage accompanies ripe yel-
low apple, peach and ginger before finishing on an
NORTHERN ITALY
almond note. Volio Vino. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $62
SPARKLING WINES
94 Fratelli Berlucchi 2012 Casa delle Colonne
Brut (Franciacorta). Crisp, dry and struc-
ALTA LANGA tured, this dazzling sparkler has aromas of yellow
apple, pear, camphor and bread crust. The aromas
95 Ettore Germano 2016 Metodo Classico Extra
Brut (Alta Langa). Delicate aromas of white
follow over to the dry palate along with lemon drop
and a sprinkling of ginger. A silky perlage provides
stone fruit, yellow spring flower and a whiff of
bread crust form the delicate, enticing nose on this
bone-dry sparkler. It’s elegant, vibrant and deli-
loads of finesse while fresh acidity keeps it focused.
Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $80
cious, doling out ripe apple, pear and a hint of gin-
ger set against an extremely refined perlage. Bright,
tangy acidity gives it a crisp, pristine finish. Oliver
McCrum Wines. —K.O.
93 1701 2013 Dosaggio Zero Riserva (Francia-
corta). A blend of 90% Chardonnay and
Pinot Nero, this elegant, focused sparkler has aro-
abv: 12.5% Price: $45 mas of bread crust, wild herb and ripe white stone
fruit. Made with no dosage, the racy palate features
92 Enrico Serafino 2016 Oudeis Brut (Alta
Langa). Made with 85% Pinot Nero and
mature yellow apple, Meyer lemon and toasted
hazelnut set against an elegant, persistent per-
15% Chardonnay, this has inviting aromas of bread lage. Vibrant acidity lifts the rich flavors. Dry Farm
dough, red berry, eucalyptus and baking spice. The Wines. —K.O.
aromas follow through to the focused palate, along
with pomegranate, hazelnut and star anise set
abv: 12.5% Price: $110
against a refined perlage. Vibrant acidity lifts the
finish. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $25
93 Bellavista 2013 Vittorio Moretti (Francia-
corta). Chamomile, yellow-pear, citrus-zest
and bread-crust aromas shape the nose on this
blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Nero. On
91 Bel Colle 2016 Cuvée Valentina Extra Brut
(Alta Langa). Made with 90% Pinot Nero
and 10% Chardonnay, this has alluring aromas of
the elegantly structured, creamy palate, a refined
perlage accompanies mature yellow apple, orange
rind, walnut and vanilla. Fresh acidity brightens the
field flower, ripe apple, tropical fruit and wild herb. rich flavors. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O.
On the dry, radiant palate, firm acidity and a lively
perlage accompany white peach, vanilla and lemon
abv: 12.5% Price: $142
drop, before finishing on notes of thyme and bitter
almond. Quintessential Wines. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $60
93 Bonfadini 2016 Victus Nature (Franciacorta).
Delicate scents of hawthorn and white stone
fruit form the nose on this bone-dry sparkler. Racy
and focused, the precise, savory palate delivers
apple, pear, ginger and citrus alongside a refined,
continuous perlage. It’s full of energy, with bright
acidity. Bottle to Glass. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $50
91 Antica Fratta 2015 Essence Rosé Brut
(Franciacorta). Aromas of bread crust and
saline carry over to the racy palate along with yel-
provide the background while notes of lemon drop
and almond grace the close. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $39
low apple and pomegranate. Vibrant acidity and a

92 Antica Fratta 2015 Essence Nature (Francia-

corta). Bone-dry and pristine, this elegant
sparkler has delicate aromas of white stone fruit,
yellow spring flower and a whiff of bread crust. On
the vibrant palate, a refined, continuous perlage and
bright acidity accompany ripe yellow apple, Meyer
lemon and toasted hazelnut. Soilair Selection. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $48
lively perlage provide the energized setting. Soilair
Selection. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $48
91 Ferghettina 2015 Milledi Brut Chardonnay
(Franciacorta). Aromas of bread crust, honey
and white stone fruit lift out of the glass. The brisk
palate offers tangy orange rind, walnut and mature
91 Bonfadini 2015 Aurora Rosé (Franciacorta).
A fifty-fifty blend of Chardonnay and Pinot
Nero, this dry, elegant sparkler has aromas of bread
yellow apple alongside persistent bubbles. It closes
on a bitter-almond note. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $55
crust and mature white stone fruit. The vibrant,

92 Antica Fratta 2009 Quintessence Extra

Brut Riserva (Franciacorta). Bread-crust,
chamomile, underbrush and mature yellow stone-
fruit aromas form the nose on this dry, intriguing
sparkler. At 11 years old, it shows complexity and
freshness, offering toasted hazelnut, mature golden
apple, unsweetened lemon drop and a hint of saline
linear palate reveals ripe golden apple, pomegran-
ate and a hint of saline alongside small, continu-
ous bubbles. It closes on a hazelnut note. Bottle to
91 La Montina 2011 Baiana Pas Dosé Riserva
(Franciacorta). Aromas of pressed chamo-
mile, bread crust and citrus zest waft out of the
Glass. —K.O. glass. It’s bone-dry and racy, delivering juicy grape-
abv: 12.5% Price: $50 fruit, yellow apple and saline alongside a lively,
elegant perlage. Wine Affairs. —K.O.
91 Corte Fusia 2014 Dosaggio Zero (Franciacorta).
Aromas of yellow apple, bread crust and
abv: 12.5% Price: $48

before closing on a coffee-bean note. A refined per-

lage provides finesse. Soilair Selection. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $65
hazelnut carry on to the dry, racy palate along with
lemon zest, Bartlett pear and a hint of ginger. Vibrant
acidity and an elegant, persistent perlage present the
91 Ricci Curbastro 2010 Gualberto Dosaggio
Zero (Franciacorta). Aromas of toasted bread
crust, mature stone fruit and a whiff of honeyed nut
energized setting. WBMatch Vino. —K.O. form the nose. The aromas carry on to the vibrant

92 Barone Pizzini 2011 Bagnadore Dosaggio

Zero Riserva (Franciacorta). Aromas of yel-
abv: 12.5% Price: $64 palate along with mature golden apple and white
peach before closing on a bitter-almond note. A
low spring flower, mature stone fruit and bread
crust waft out of the glass on this elegantly struc-
tured blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot
91 Ferghettina NV Brut (Franciacorta). Tangy
and creamy, this savory sparkler doles out
ripe yellow apple, Bartlett pear and white peach
refined perlage accompanies the rich flavors. Tavolo
Vigneto. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $65
Nero. The precise palate offers ripe yellow-apple, alongside crisp acidity. Small, persistent bubbles
unsweetened lemon-zest, almond and savory min-
eral notes alongside bright acidity. A refined, persis-
tent perlage provides finesse. LLS–Winebow. —K.O.
abv: 12% Price: $60

92 Berlucchi 2009 Palazzo Lana Extra Brut

Riserva (Franciacorta). Enticingly delicate
aromas of chamomile, white stone fruit and bread
crust mingle with whiffs of orange-citrus zest on
this dry, elegant sparkler. Incredibly youthful for
an 11-year-old wine, it’s well balanced, featuring
mature yellow apple, white peach, ginger and a dol- The venetian art
lop of vanilla set against a silky perlage. Fresh acidity
brightens the rich flavors. This proves the serious
aging potential of top wines from the denomination.
of winemaking
Volio Vino. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $92

92 La Montina 2012 Brut (Franciacorta). Intrigu-

ing aromas include smoke, charcuterie and
bread crust on this 100% Chardonnay sparkler. The
aromas carry over to the elegantly sparkling pal-
ate along with juicy white peach, grilled herb and
lemon drop. It’s surprisingly fresh for an eight-year-
old bottling, but also has complexity. A silky perlage
keeps it polished. Wine Affairs. —K.O.
abv: 12% Price: $35

92 Mirabella 2013 Demetra Extra Brut (Francia-

corta). Dry and classy, this racy sparkler
opens with delicate scents recalling spring wild
flower and white stone fruit. The elegant, vibrant
palate delivers yellow apple, Meyer lemon, bread
crust and an energizing mineral note suggesting wet MASI Agricola – Via Monteleone 26, 37015 Sant'Ambrogio di Valpolicella (Verona) - Italy
stone set against a polished, persistent perlage. Bac-
Imported by SANTA MARGHERITA USA. MADE RESPONSIBLY TO BE ENJOYED RESPONSIBLY
chanal Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $39

WINEMAG.COM | 185
BUYINGGUIDE
91 Ronco Calino 2012 Brut (Franciacorta). Mature
yellow stone-fruit, bread crust and baking-spice
aromas waft out of the glass. On the palate, a silky
perlage accompanies lemon drop, golden apple and
toasted hazelnut. Fresh acidity lifts the rich flavors.
Vineyard Road. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $40
90 Antica Fratta 2015 Essence Noir Extra Brut
(Franciacorta). Aromas of bread crust,
toasted hazelnut and orange rind follow over to the
palate, along with ripe apricot, ginger and a hint of
pomegranate. Fresh acidity and a persistent perlage
provide the setting. Soilair Selection. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $55
90 Castello Bonomi 2011 Cru Perdu Millesimato
(Franciacorta). For full review see page 171.
abv: 12.5% Price: $39
90 Corte Fusia NV Brut (Franciacorta). White
stone-fruit and yellow spring-flower aro-
mas align with a whiff of bread crust on this ele-
gantly sparkling wine. Bright and linear, the tangy
palate offers mature yellow apple, lemon drop and
hazelnut. Matchvino. —K.O.
abv: NA Price: $40
90 Ricci Curbastro 2009 Museum Release Extra
Brut (Franciacorta). Aromas of mature
stone fruit, bread crust, orange liqueur and cedar
form the nose. On the subtle palate, an elegant
perlage accompanies mature golden apple, orange
rind and candied lemon drop before a bitter-walnut
close. Tavolo Vigneto. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $75
90 Ronco Calino 2015 Nature (Franciacorta).
Made with 70% Chardonnay and 30%
Pinot Nero, this has aromas of white spring blos-
som, white stone fruit and bread crust. The dry,
focused palate features ripe golden apple, Meyer
lemon and white almond set against bright acidity
a vibrant perlage. Vineyard Road. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $40
90 Santa Lucia 2014 Dosaggio Zero (Francia-
corta). Aromas of bread crust and toasted
nut follow through to the bone-dry palate along
with mature yellow apple and a hint of saline. A
lively perlage and racy acidity provide energized
support. Fantastik Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $NA
90 Villa 2015 Emozione Brut (Franciacorta).
Delicate scents recalling saline, botani-
cal herb and a the barest whiff of citrus form the
subtle nose. On the dry, racy palate, brisk acidity
and a lively perlage accompany ripe yellow apple,
unsweetened lemon drop and a hint of hazelnut.
MPP Selections. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $40
186 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
TRENTO
95 Maso Martis 2016 Dosaggio Zero Riserva
(Trento). A blend of 70% Pinot Nero and
30% Chardonnay, this compelling, focused spar-
kler offers aromas of white spring flower and bread
dough. Made with organically farmed grapes, the
pristine, delicious palate offers white stone fruit,
alpine herb and juicy Meyer lemon alongside savory
saline mineral notes. Crisp acidity and an elegant
perlage provide energy and finesse. For lovers of
bone-dry, elegant bubbly, this is for you. Solstars.
Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $67
94 Revi 2016 Rosé Brut (Trento). Aromas of
wild berry, freshly baked bread and alpine
herb lead the nose, along with whiffs of cake spice
and pink grapefruit. The silky palate shows struc-
ture and finesse, delivering juicy strawberry, pome-
granate, white pepper and white almond alongside
racy acidity and an elegant perlage. Vinity Wine
Company. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $30
93 Maso Martis 2010 Rare Vintage Riserva
(Trento). Aromas of bread crust, mature
white stone fruit and a delicate whiff of forest
floor form the alluring nose. Elegant and struc-
tured, the palate delivers ripe yellow apple, toasted
hazelnut, ginger and a dollop of vanilla alongside a
refined, persistent perlage. It has intriguing depth
and complexity while fresh acidity keeps it vibrant.
Solstars. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
91 Altemasi 2016 Millesimato Brut (Trento).
Aromas of white spring flower, white stone
fruit and bread crust form the nose on this bright,
sparkling Chardonnay. The elegant palate offers
ripe yellow apple, chamomile and a dollop of bak-
ing spice set against a refined perlage. Palm Bay
International. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $30
91 Rotari 2012 Flavio Riserva (Trento). This
elegant sparkler offers inviting aromas of
toasted hazelnut, mature white stone fruit and
bread crust. The aromas carry over to the polished
palate, along with ripe yellow apple and a hint of
citrus set against vibrant acidity and a persistent
perlage. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $49
90 Altemasi NV Rosé Brut (Trento). Fresh and
refined, this bright sparkler opens with
aromas of graphite, dried herb and alpine wild
flower. A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Nero, it
offers ripe white stone fruit, pink grapefruit and
a hint of brioche. Racy acidity and a polished,
vibrant perlage provide the setting. Palm Bay
International. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $30
LAMBRUSCO DI SORBARA
95 Paltrinieri 2019 Leclisse (Lambrusco di
Sorbara). Absolutely delicious, this elegant,
fragrant wine offers enticing aromas of violet, red
berry, citrus and baking spice. The bone-dry, foam-
ing palate delivers strawberry, raspberry and red
cherry, accented with cinnamon and ginger notes.
Crisp acidity gives it a pristine, quenching finish
that leaves you wanting more. Lyra Wine. Editors’
Choice. —K.O.
abv: 11% Price: $25
95 Paltrinieri 2019 Radice (Lambrusco di Sor-
bara). Made by carrying out the second
fermentation in the bottle, this radiant, lightly
sparkling wine opens with heady aromas of citrus,
violet and a yeasty whiff of bread dough. Bone-dry
and delicious, the energized palate delivers tart
sour cherry, juicy pomegranate, pink grapefruit and
white pepper alongside crisp acidity and a savory
hint of saline. One bottle probably won’t be enough.
Lyra Wine. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 11% Price: $20
92 Medici Ermete 2018 Metodo Classico Carezza
(Lambrusco di Sorbara). Aromas of straw-
berries, rose petals and a whiff of brioche follow
over to the tangy, savory palate along with orange
rind and sour cherry. Bright acidity and an ele-
gant, lively perlage provide the energized setting.
Kobrand. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 12% Price: $28
92 Paltrinieri 2019 Grosso Metodo Classico
(Lambrusco di Sorbara). Bread-crust, straw-
berry, vanilla and orange-rind aromas escape the
glass. The aromas carry over to the elegant palate
along with pink grapefruit and star anise set against
tangy acidity. Lyra Wine. —K.O.
abv: 12% Price: $NA
91 Cantina di Soliera NV Il Trovador (Lambrusco
di Sorbara). Refermented in the bottle, this
savory sparkler has aromas of grapefruit, rose and
red berry. The lightly sparkling palate doles out juicy
red cherry, citrus, yeasty whiffs of bread dough and
white pepper alongside tangy acidity. It has a crisp,
mouthwatering close. Dark Star Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12% Price: $27
91 Medici Ermete 2019 Phermento Frizzante
(Lambrusco di Sorbara). Refermented in the
bottle, this lightly sparkling wine has aromas of
red berry, violet, citrus and yeasty whiffs of bread
dough. Mirroring the nose, the dry, tangy palate
doles out juicy raspberry, grapefruit and a hint of
ginger alongside crisp acidity. Kobrand. —K.O.
abv: 11% Price: $27
91 Paltrinieri 2019 Piria (Lambrusco di Sorbara).
Fun and refreshing, this dry, lightly spar-
kling wine presents juicy strawberry, raspberry
and orange rind accented by a hint of white pepper.
Made with 70% Lambrusco di Sorbara and 30%
Lambrusco di Salamino, it’s crisp and savory, with
ultrafine bubbles. Lyra Wine. Best Buy. —K.O.
abv: 12% Price: $15
91 Te Whare Ra 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor-
ough). While TWR is celebrated more for its
beautiful aromatic whites like Riesling and Pinot
is an affordable example of an iconic and inimitable
wine style. Drink now. Saranty Imports. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $17
Gris, the latest Sauvignon is a young yet well-bal-

91 Paltrinieri 2018 La Riserva (Lambrusco di

Sorbara). Aromas of violet, botanical herb
and whiffs of walnut form the nose. It’s bright and
savory, featuring juicy pomegranate, pink grapefruit
and a hint of spice alongside a refined perlage. Lyra
Wine. —K.O.
abv: 12% Price: $30
anced drop. Notes of relatively ripe peach and cit-
rus fruit run along a spine of green bell pepper and
that feline funk typical to this style and region. On
the palate, complexity is added to the bright citrus
fruit and zingy acidity via a chalky texture. This is
a solid and unforced SB that speaks, not shrieks, of
its origins. Another year or two in bottle should add
a whole new dimension here. DJK Imports. —C.P.
90 Tinpot Hut 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl-
borough). This fresh, perfumed Sauvignon
presents a fruit bowl of flavor (citrus, stone and
tropical), with bass notes of damp grass and dried
green herbs. Acidity is lifted but in check, with a
pithy bite and herb-flecked finish. This is a refresh-
ing, balanced, bone-dry bottling perfect for summer
salads. Copa Fina Imports CA. —C.P.

91 Villa di Corlo 2019 Primevo (Lambrusco di

Sorbara). Dry and tangy, this sparkler has
abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $19

aromas of violet, red berry, grapefruit and a whiff

of baking spice. Reflecting the nose, the savory,
quenching palate doles out juicy sour cherry, straw-
berry and white pepper, alongside a foamy mousse
and crisp acidity. Ethica Wines. Best Buy. —K.O.
abv: 11% Price: $15
90 Astrolabe 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor-
ough). For full review see page 170.
abv: 13.5% Price: $22
89 Lawson’s Dry Hills 2019 Sauvignon Blanc
(Marlborough). From one of Marlborough’s
early grape pioneers, this Sauvignon ticks all the
regional and stylistic boxes. It opens on the reduc-
90 Staete Landt 2019 Map Maker Sauvignon
Blanc (Marlborough). Reflective of the bet-
ter vintage, the 2019 is a big step up the previous
tive, funky side, soon revealing gooseberry, citrus,
bell-pepper and dried green-herbal notes as it
opens in glass. Still very young, there’s a bite to the

NEW ZEALAND
year’s bottling of this wine. This is classic life-of-
the-party Marlborough SB with all that’s charming
about the style minus all that’s sweaty and feline.
SAUVIGNON BLANC Passion fruit, grapefruit, lime and peach explode
from the glass with softer grassier notes following
acidity, like sucking on a lemon, that may settle into
the wine more with another six months to a year in
bottle. Mt. Beautiful USA. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $17

93 Fromm Winery 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl-

borough). This is an expressive and down-
right delicious Sauvignon from a great vintage and a
in the wake. The palate is equally explosive, like a
Popsicle on overdrive: fresh and fruity, with a gen-
tleness to the texture to temper all that acidity. This
88 Moon Twist 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor-
ough). This classic Marlborough Sauvignon
walks a line between fruity and vegetal, with notes
thoughtful producer. Hand-picked and whole-bunch of grapefruit and lemon oil alongside grass and that
pressed with six months on lees, there’s a refreshing
ease of winemaking here. The nose is like unbaked
apple crumble combined with notes of lemon ver-
bena and tomato leaf. The texture is gorgeous, with
bright acidity and a long lemony, herbal finish. This
is good friendly and filled with personality. K&L
Wine Merchants. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $20

92 Giesen 2019 The Brothers Sauvignon Blanc

(Marlborough). Giesen’s lees and barrel
aged “The Brothers” is back and, likely thanks to
the fantastic 2019 vintage, is better than it’s been
in several years. It opens with a delicate perfume of
honeydew melon, green-apple slices, black-currant
leaf and honeysuckle. There’s a slight burn of sulfur
on the palate but overall it’s fruit driven and tex-
tural, lifted by a lovely crunch of acidity and a wel-
come layer of complexity amidst the refreshment.
Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $20

92 Middle-Earth 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Nelson).

For full review see page 166. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.5% Price: $17

91 Paddy Borthwick 2019 Sauvignon Blanc

(Wairarapa). This is a well-balanced, clas-
sically styled Kiwi Sauvignon from a great vintage.
The nose is relatively restrained and layered, reveal-
ing waxy citrus, crushed green herbs, delicate flo-
rals and that slightly sweaty funk that’s a signature
of this style. There’s a lovely play between texture
and acidity on the palate, setting this up to be a
food-friendly drop. LeVecke. —C.P.
abv: 13.5% Price: $19

WINEMAG.COM | 187
BUYINGGUIDE
slightly sweaty, feline funk typical to this style.
There’s what feels like a touch of residual sugar on
the palate and textural creaminess balancing plenty
of zingy acidity and boisterous fruit. Drink now,
with a pool or beach in sight if possible. Kysela Père
et Fils. Best Buy. —C.P.
abv: 12.5% Price: $13
PINOT NOIR
95 Te Whare Ra 2016 Pinot Noir (Marlborough).
Anna and Jason Flowerday possess the old-
est vineyards in Marlborough. This Pinot, while still
young, sings of brambly red berries layered with
woodsy spice, soy sauce, mushrooms, flowers and
a stony minerality. The medium-weight palate is a
testament to restraint and a cool climate. It’s both
elegant and austere, set for the long haul. Tannins
are taut, spicy and fine, the fruit taking a back seat
to the spice. Drink now through 2028. DJK Imports.
Editors’ Choice. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $30
94 Koyama 2016 Pearson’s Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Waipara Valley). Takahiro Koyama started
this label and later purchased Mountford (the estate
where he worked for many years). While this wine
isn’t the most ageworthy, it’s joyful and energetic. It
smells of all four seasons combined: freshly plucked
red berries; the warming, woodsy smell of bak-
ing spices; a newly bloomed rosebush; black olives
in brine. The palate is just as the nose suggests.
Medium weight, fleshy fruit is supported by sappy,
spicy tannins—an expressive beauty reflective of the
exciting Waipara Valley. Whanau Imports. Editors’
Choice. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $55
94 Koyama 2016 Williams’ Vineyard S Pinot
Noir (Waipara Valley). With 70% whole
bunch fermentation in open-top French barrels,
this is an ultraprecise wine that is young now
but should age remarkably well. Tones of kirsch,
prunes, mushroom, charcuterie, baking spice and
woodsy, alpine notes flow into a tightly knit pal-
ate, wound by sappy, savory, ultrafine tannins. This
serious and food friendly Pinot needs a decantering
if you are cracking open now, but it will reward the
most patient imbiber for at least the next decade.
Whanau Imports. Cellar Selection. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $70
94 Mountford 2014 Estate Pinot Noir (North
Canterbury). This Pinot, from North Can-
terbury’s cool climes, has hit its stride. Traditional
winemaking from well-established vines makes for
a lively, complex yet crowd-pleasing nose of red
berries, cloves, dried flowers and ground white pep-
per. The palate is light weight, with a gentle grip
of spicy, savory tannins, juicy fruit and some well-
placed oak. Balanced with length and poise, this is
a charming drop that’s drinking well now and will
hold up over the next few years. Whanau Imports.
Editors’ Choice. —C.P.
abv: 14% Price: $45
188 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
93 Mountford 2015 Estate The Rise Single Vine-
yard Pinot Noir (North Canterbury). The low
crop vines for this small, North Canterbury-based
estate grow in active limestone soils. Woodsy notes
of pine, cedar and spice wander amongst brambly
berries, licorice, flowers and vanilla bean. There’s
lovely lifted acidity on the palate and spicy, fine tan-
nins. The barrel shows, along with more wood-spice
flavors, but the fruit is bright and silky. Drink now
through 2025. Whanau Imports. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $90
92 Decibel 2017 Single Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mar-
tinborough). Pop this in a decanter or give it
some good swirling to really uncoil it aromatically.
When it does release its aromas, it’s a characterful
and tasty drop. Think plump brambly berries, warm
stones, mushrooms and roses. It’s medium weight,
with fleshy fruit, crunchy acidity and silky tannins.
There’s a lovely spiciness that flows through to the
finish. Drink now with rustic, fatty, Pinot-friendly
fare. Whanau Imports. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $40
92 Wild Earth 2016 Pinot Noir (Central Otago).
This is a superfruity Pinot that ranks high
in crowd appeal. Red-cherry fruit bounces from the
glass, followed by vanilla bean, licorice, soy sauce
and subtle floral notes. The palate has an autumnal
vibe about it, the acidity crunching like fall leaves
underfoot and the savory sinewy tannins and earthy
umami characters juxtaposing silky juicy fruit. Drink
now and over the next few years. Cape Ardor LLC.
—C.P.
abv: 13.5% Price: $40
92 Wild Earth 2012 Earth and Sky Pinot Noir
(Central Otago). This translucent, cherry-
hued Otago Pinot is showing slight browning at
the edges due to bottle age, but other than that, is
still bright and vibrant. Plush cherry fruit domi-
nates, backed by baking spice, crushed rose pet-
als, and a subtle mushroom note. Light to medium
bodied, there’s still plenty of zingy acidity at hand
to brighten the ripe berry fruit and spice. There’s a
little bitter astringency on the finish and not much
complexity seems to have been gained from time in
bottle, but overall this is holding up nicely. Drink
now–2025. Cape Ardor LLC. —C.P.
abv: 14.3% Price: $60
91 Hans Family Estate 2013 Pinot Noir (Marl-
borough). This bottle-aged Pinot walks to
its own beat. It’s showing a little oxidation on the
appearance, and a touch of volatility on the nose,
but this adds an element of complexity to the red
currants, strawberries, roses on stems and cinna-
mon notes. The palate is lightweight, juxtaposing
bright fruit and elegance with a grip of austere,
slightly astringent tannins that seem more derived
from the fruit than the barrel. There’s a bitterness
to the finish, like biting into a grape seed. This is a
wine that’s personality-filled but that doesn’t need
to shout to be heard. Drink now–2023. Cape Ardor
LLC. —C.P.
abv: 14% Price: $42
90 Wild Earth 2014 Special Edition Pinot Noir
(Central Otago). A selection of two Pinot
clones, this still very youthful wine shows an
onion-like reductive funk to start but with air even-
tually reveals red- and black-berry fruit, licorice and
a subtle but distinctive mélange of spices, herbs and
campfire smoke. The palate is still tightly wound,
gripped by taut, ultrasavory tannins and punctu-
ated by angular acidity. Despite this, there’s a lovely
silkiness to the fruit and obvious clonal character
shining through. It would be worth looking at this
again in another few years. Drink 2022–2028. Cape
Ardor LLC. —C.P.
abv: 13.6% Price: $60
88 Huia 2015 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). This
five-year-old Pinot bottling is on the dense
side, by Marlborough standards, with an autumnal
vibe. It needs air for some of the reduction to blow
off and then it reveals notes of ripe brambly berries,
dried violets, earthy spices and meaty undertones,
with a bit of soapy oak. The palate isn’t as harmoni-
ous as one would hope considering the bottle age,
but there’s lifted acidity, a grip of dusty tannins and
oak spice amidst the slightly heavy fruit. USA Wine
West. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $28
88 Invivo 2017 Pinot Noir (Central Otago). This
is a fruity wine that benefits from a bit of
swirling in glass to really make those red cherries
and currents pop. Flower stalks, vanilla and baking
spices line the underbelly. It’s fleshy and ripe in the
mouth, medium in weight and has a silky texture
and chalky, spicy tannins—a straightforward but
varietal Pinot. Seaview Imports. —C.P.
abv: 14.5% Price: $26
CHILE
CARMENÈRE
92 Caliterra 2017 Tributo Carmenère (Colchagua
Valley). Berry and black plum aromas meld
with an herbal accent in this typical Colchagua Val-
ley Carmenère. On the palate, this is full and dense,
with just enough lively acidic pop. Toasty, spicy fla-
vors of smoky oak accent a core of blackberry and
cassis, while this is long and slightly tannic on a
well-focused finish. Drink through 2024. Seaview
Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
92 Montes 2017 Purple Angel Carmenère (Colch-
agua Valley). Savory, saucy blackberry and
black-plum aromas include common Carmenère
notes of olive, along with charred oak and asphalt.
A shot of tartaric acidity brightens an otherwise
soft and lush palate, while this tastes of blackberry,
spiced black plum and resiny oak. An easy finish
with soft tannins wraps things up; drink through
2024. Kobrand. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $95
92 Santa Rita 2018 Pewën Carmenère (Apalta).
A dark and deep purple color complements
fully ripe and rubbery aromas of blackberry, sage,
bell pepper and rain forest. A juicy bolt of tartaric
acidity is probing and amplifies flavors of black
cherry, blackberry and peppercorn. A solid finish
that doesn’t demand too much closes this Apalta-
raised Carmenère that’s polished but holds onto
its varietal character; drink through 2028. Delicato
Family Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $70
92 Valdivieso 2017 Single Vineyard Carmenère
(Peumo). Intense aromas of olive, green
tobacco, hard spices and black fruits create the nose
on this structured Carmenère. Spicy blackberry
and dark-plum flavors are backed by oak and vari-
etal green notes, while this tastes minty on a finish
with clarity and length. Drink through 2024. Global
Select Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $23
88 Valdivieso 2018 Valley Selection Gran
Reserva Carmenère (Rapel Valley). Hard
spice, tomato and red-bell-pepper aromas indi-
cate that a leaner, more fiery style of Carmenère is
on tap. Dry tannins toughen the palate in front of
minty plum and coffee flavors. Not much fruit sticks
around for the finish. Global Select Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $18
RED BLENDS
93 Tutunjian 2015 Entre Valles Maipo-
Colchagua-Maule (Chile). Lusty aromas of
black plum, campfire smoke, baking spices and green
herbs make for a classic Chilean nose, while this
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Malbec
is stout yet fresh on a lively, ripping palate. A mix
of spiced plum flavors, herbal notes and light oak is
integrated and singing in unison, while this is long,
92 Lagar de Codegua 2015 Aluvión (Cachapoal
Valley). This Cabernet Sauvignon-led blend
opens with grapy blackberry and black-currant aro-
mas followed by a fleshy mouthfeel anchored by
rubbing tannins. Cassis and prune flavors echo a
warm vintage, while this is more about ripeness and
power than nuance. Lightly blackened flavors drive
a finish with mild heat. Drink through 2023. Vino
Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $29
92 P.S. Garcia 2015 Facundo (Maule Valley).
Initially this blend of Carignan, Cab Franc,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot smells heavy
and obtuse, with little pop; airing, however, allows
this warm-vintage red to breathe and express itself.
A plump mouthfeel is full but a touch soft and
flabby. Deep flavors of black plum, blackberry and
oak are saucy, while lightly cooked berry fruit car-
ries the finish. Drink through 2023. Vine Connec-

91 Apaltagua 2017 Grial Carmenère (Apalta).

Heavily oaked aromas of graphite and wood
resin blend with saucy, herbal black-fruit scents
minty and just a touch green on a full finish; drink
through 2024. The Imported Grape LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
tions. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $35

to form a powerful nose. This Carmenère from the

Apalta subsection of Colchagua is flush on the palate
and pulpy in feel. Blackberry and resiny oak flavors 92 Dos Almas 2015 Apogeo de Apalta (Colcha-
gua Valley). For full review see page 164.
92 Undurraga 2015 T.H. Terroir Hunter Rarities
Garnacha-Cariñena-Monastrell (Cauquenes
Valley). For full review see page 167.
turn minty on a finish that goes on and on. Drink Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $35
through 2024. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50
abv: 14% Price: $75
91 Casa Donoso 2017 1810 Cabernet Sauvignon-
Carmenère (Maule Valley). Blackberry and

91 Concha y Toro 2018 Terrunyo Carmenère

(Peumo). One of Chile’s most consistently
excellent Carmenères is playing at its normal high
level, with a glistening dark-purple color and spicy,
lightly herbal berry aromas that are purely of the
grape variety. Tartaric burn roughens the palate
prior to flavors of tart plum, wild berry and pepper.
Slight heat and burn are noted on the finish; drink
through 2028. Fetzer Vineyards. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40

91 Santa Rita 2018 Floresta Carmenère (Apalta).

Spicy cherry aromas are edgy and lively as
they open for a fresh, loud palate with an aggressive
tannic-acid interplay. Plum and wild-berry flavors
evolve to include saltiness, while a dark and pep-
pery finish shows a flash of burnt oak as this intense
Carmenère from Apalta battles to stay elegant
and classy; drink through 2027. Delicato Family
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $35

90 Viña Chocalan 2017 Gran Reserva Origen Car-

menère (Maipo Valley). For full review see
page 174.
abv: 14% Price: $18

89 Santa Ema 2018 Amplus One Carmenère

(Peumo). Leathery berry aromas are a bit
stewed, with hints of soy sauce and hoisin. The pal-
ate-feel is a blend of soupy thickness cut by tartaric
acidity, while this tastes of green herbs, yesterday’s
coffee and peppery berry fruits. A bit murky through-
out, this is lightly green and oaky on the finish. Pacific
Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $30

WINEMAG.COM | 189
BUYINGGUIDE
black-cherry aromas come across hard and tough,
but still honest and welcoming. This hot-year blend
of Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère offers a
round, mostly smooth palate with controlled tan-
nins. Spicy black-fruit flavors are accented by mint
and cola notes, while hints of tobacco and herbs
on the finish confirm the wine’s Chilean roots.
Palmateer Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $37
dense. A saturated palate is packed with concen-
trated power, while blackberry and cassis flavors
are backed by oak that’s slightly charred and warm-
ing. Hence, dark-chocolate and smoky flavors play
out on a muscular finish with some tartaric burn.
Drink this high-level Tannat through 2025. Austral
Estates Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 15% Price: $19
currant aromas open this leathery Tannat. Flavors
of blackberry, cassis and spicy beef jerky finish full
and warm, with notably full tannins providing tex-
tural support and toughness. Cork Alliance. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $15
87 Pueblo del Sol 2019 Roble Tannat (Canelones).
A light rusty-red color and dry, gritty red-
berry aromas indicate a lighter style of Tannat.

91 TerraNoble 2017 Lahuen (Chile). Dark-berry

aromas are accented by whiffs of hot pave-
ment, olive, coffee grounds and stalky herbal notes.
This Cabernet Sauvignon blend benefits from lively
acidity, while plum, wild-berry, spice and oak notes
are integrated. An edgy finish with oak and cocoa
flavors runs long and is brightened by juicy acidity.
Drink through 2024. MundoVino–Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $38
92 Bouza 2018 B6 Parcela Única Las Violetas
Tannat (Canelones). A nearly black color
and maximumly ripe aromas of cassis, raisin and
Crisp, smacking acidity freshens the palate, while
cherry, plum and distant prune flavors finish steady.
World Brands. Best Buy. —M.S.
road tar announce a typical Bouza Tannat that’s abv: 12.5% Price: $9
saturated and rich. Given the color, nose and 16%
weight, it’s no surprise that this is packed to the
hilt with pulpy black fruit and tartaric acidity that RED BLENDS
helps with balance. Dark flavors of blackberry, cas-
sis, espresso and chocolate finish warm, rich and
spicy, with a fiery burn. Drink through 2024. Elixir
Wine Group. —M.S.
91 Bouza 2018 Monte Vide Eu Tannat-Merlot-
Tempranillo (Montevideo). Heavy oak aromas
accompany berry and cassis scents, while this feels

90 P.S. Garcia 2017 Bravado (Itata Valley). Ripe

berry aromas veer towards sunbaked and
raisiny, with hints of licorice and fennel adding
complexity to the bouquet. A juicy palate is racier
than the nose suggests, with pushy currant-like
acidity. Flavors of cranberry, red currant and pep-
pery spice wind down on a lively, fiery finish. Drink
through 2022. Vine Connections. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
abv: 16% Price: $48 thick, jammy and a bit stewy. Said heavy oak is the
lead element of a baked and woody black-fruit flavor
92 Viña Progreso 2016 Old Vines Tannat (Pro-
greso). This small-batch Tannat from the
traditional Progreso subzone near Montevideo
profile, while a saturated finish delivers smoky notes
along with jammy weight. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 15% Price: $64
opens with bright berry aromas and a sense of bal-
anced freshness. The palate is racy but balanced by
nicely extracted fruit, while oaky flavors of coffee
and chocolate aid the core blackberry fruit. A supple
90 Aguará 2018 Tannat Blend (Durazno).
Blackberry aromas are earthy, full and rich
in front of a jammy palate with meaty tannins and
finish with good flow wraps up this attractive red. weight. Savory, lightly baked blackberry flavors

89 Morandé 2017 Mediterráneo (Maule Val-

ley). Gritty, earthy berry aromas are very
much in the Maule profile, while this blend of five
Drink through 2023. Copa Fina Imports CA. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $31
are accented by herbal-tea notes, while this blend
of Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo
finishes smooth and full. Drink through 2024.
Rhône varieties feels tight and acidic at first, then
more open and widespread. Spicy plum, currant and
herbal flavors plow forward on a straight-lined fin-
91 Aguará 2018 Special Reserve Tannat
(Durazno). Brambly berry and oak aromas
lead a nose that includes notes of mint, black lico-
Lanciano Imports Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $45

ish. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S.

abv: 14.5% Price: $26
rice and peppery spice. This Tannat named after a
rarely seen fox seems a touch austere and acidic on
first take, but over time that translates to freshness.
90 Artesana 2018 Reserva Cabernet Franc-
Merlot (Canelones). Blackberry and crushed
peppercorn aromas are a bit rough and grating. A

87 Oveja Negra 2017 Lost Barrel (Maule Valley).

Cherry and plum aromas are kind of fluffy
and vague, with a touch of oak. This Carignan-led
blend feels wide and lacking in structure. Minty
green flavors of plum, currant and buttery oak fin-
ish with green tannins—possibly a reflection of a
hot vintage that forced a very early harvest. Total
Beverage Solution. —M.S.
Oaky flavors of black fruits have an herbal tomato-
like background, while a touch of oaky vanilla flavor
helps smooth out a snappy finish. Drink through
full mouthfeel is balanced by lively acidity that
lends balance. Blackberry and cassis flavors are a
touch warm and stewy, while this blend of Merlot
2024. Lanciano Imports Inc. —M.S. and Cab Franc is choppy and mildly tannic on a fin-
abv: 14% Price: $45 ish that tastes ever so slightly green. Austral Estates
Wines. —M.S.
89 Cerro Chapeu 2018 Reserva Tannat
(Uruguay). Blackberry and cassis aromas
abv: 14% Price: $19

abv: 14.5% Price: $30 are lightly oaked, while this is medium to full in
body, with tomatoey acidity. Raw plum and currant
flavors are fresh and a bit salty, while this Tannat
89 Familia Deicas 2019 Extreme Vineyards
Cerro del Guazuvirá (Uruguay). Jammy berry
aromas are wooly, furry and candied, while this
URUGUAY is quite dry and tannic on a rubbing finish. MHW, blend of Tannat, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Viognier
Ltd. —M.S. is high in acidity and clamping. Medicinal plum and
TANNAT abv: 13% Price: $15 currant flavors show active kick, while pointy acid-
ity adds urgency and intensity to the finish. World

93 Cerro Chapeu 2017 Batovi T1 Single Vine-

yard Tannat (Uruguay). Massive dark-berry
aromas range from blackberry to spiced black
89 Familia Deicas 2019 Atlántico Sur Reserve
Tannat (Uruguay). Ripe blackberry aromas
are a bit cheesy and wild, with a note of dried beef
Brands. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $45

cherry. Following the nose, this is flush and lush

but balanced more than just hefty. Chocolaty oak
blends with ripe berry and spice flavors in front
of a smooth, toasty finish with black-coffee notes
and welcome acidity. This feels big and rich. Drink
through 2025. MHW, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $35
adding meaty complexity to the nose. A dry, smack-
ing palate with seizing tannins frames earthy black-
plum and cassis flavors, while this voluminous Tan-
nat is anchored by dry tannins on a savory tasting
finish. Drink through 2023. World Brands. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $22
88 El Capricho 2019 Tannat Blend (Durazno).
Early aromas of horseradish and mint give
way to lightly herbal and grassy berry aromas,
while this blend of Tannat, Tempranillo and Cab-
ernet Sauvignon feels punchy and chewy. Standard
black-fruit flavors show a minty green accent, while
this flattens out on a dense finish with tannic grab.

92 Artesana 2018 Reserva Tannat (Canelones).

Dark-berry aromas form a nose that’s quite
88 Establecimiento Juanico 2019 Don Pascual
Coastal Tannat (Uruguay). A darkly con-
centrated color and compact blackberry and black-
Lanciano Imports Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $15

190 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020

88 Establecimiento Juanico 2020 Don Pascual
(Uruguay). Early aromas of briny berry
fruits and balsamic vinegar settle on jammy rasp-
berry and strawberry. Juicy tightness makes for a
raw palate feel, while plum, raspberry, cherry and
chocolate flavors are lasting on the finish. The more
time this youngster has to breathe, the better it
gets. Cork Alliance. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $15
CALIFORNIA
WHITE BLENDS
times that remains flavorful, textured and bright.
Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: NA Price: $24
89 Wolff 2019 White Wolff (San Luis Obispo
County). Boisterous aromas of poached
pear, gardenia and guava are ripe but cleanly pre-
sented on the nose of this blend of 50% Viognier,
27% Albarino and 23% Grenache Blanc. Strong
peach-blossom-oil and tropical tones show on the
palate, but it’s zesty and lively to sip. —M.K.
abv: 13.8% Price: $24
88 Charles B. Mitchell 2019 Estate Reserve
Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc (Fair Play). A
enjoyment. Drink now through 2035. Cellar Selec-
tion. —M.K.
abv: 14% Price: $40
94 Birichino 2019 Enz Vineyard Old Vines
Mourvèdre (Lime Kiln Valley). This old-vine
bottling packs freshness together with constant
intrigue, calling for repeated tastes over the course
of multiple days. It begins with aromas of freshly
plucked plum, just-ripe cherries, light herbs, rose
petals and a streak of stone. The palate follows suit
with tense, grippy tannins, a fresh and light body
and refreshing flavors of plum and crushed stone.
Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $40

95 Arietta 2019 Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon

(Napa Valley). A blend of 74% Sauvignon
Blanc and 26% Sémillon, this superb white is
lively snap-pea aroma is followed by nicely rich
herb, honey and melon flavors in this full-bodied,
complex and lightly earthy-tasting wine. —J.G. 94 McKahn 2018 Mourvèdre (Livermore Valley).
For full review see page 159.
robust and complex, with a sophisticated struc- abv: 14.8% Price: $21 abv: 14.9% Price: $42
ture and lively underlying acidity. Hints of nutmeg,
honey and flint meet a serious palate of tension and
length. —V.B.
abv: 14.9% Price: $65
MOURVÈDRE 94 Terre Rouge 2017 Mourvèdre (Sierra Foot-
hills). Aromas and flavors like sauteed
mushrooms with beef jus give this full-bodied wine

92 Kaena 2018 Hapa Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley).

Mikael Sigouin uses a rich-yet-blend of
50% Roussanne, 25% Viognier, 17% Grenache
Blanc and 8% Albarino to craft a great Chardonnay
alternative. Aromas of baked apple, tangerine peel,
white melon and toast lead into an oily palate that
offers cashew cream and light marzipan flavors, cut
by citrusy acidity. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 13.9% Price: $30
95 Stolpman 2018 Mourvèdre (Ballard Canyon).
There’s a pure focus to this bottling that
will benefit cellaring. Aromas of roasted black plum,
a different, distinctive personality and reveal the
earthy, gamy aspects of Mourvèdre. It’s a hearty,
savory wine that charts its own path away from
black pepper and lavender lead into a palate loaded commercial styles. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
with iron shavings, graphite, charred beef and taut abv: 13.5% Price: $35
elderberry fruit. It’s tight, and ready for years of

92 Le Casque 2019 Adrian (Sierra Foothills).

Great depth, layering and complexity make
this full-bodied wine something to linger over.
Notes of pear, cream and vanilla harmonize on a
nicely viscous texture that extends the finish. It’s
a blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Picpoul
Blanc. —J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30

92 St. Supéry 2018 Virtú Estate Bottled Semil-

lon-Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). For full
review see page 167. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30

91 Revelshine 2019 White Blend (Russian River

Valley). Presented in a 500 ml aluminum
bottle that’s refillable and recyclable, vintner
Jake Bilbro combines 95% Chardonnay and 5%
Grenache Blanc into a delicious, gulpable package
of bright stone fruit and pineapple, with plenty
of underlying acidity to keep it fresh and crisp.
Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 13.6% Price: $18/500 ml

90 Winemaker’s Folly 2019 Chapter 1 Vino

Blanco (Sonoma County). Vintner Jake Bil-
bro goes back to his roots here, as the son of Mari-
etta Cellars’ founder and winemaker Chris Bilbro,
in this deliciously approachable, cheerful white.
Combining 80% Chardonnay with the remainder
a mix of Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Trousseau Gris,
Grenache Blanc and Berger, it’s a tribute to simpler

WINEMAG.COM | 191
BUYINGGUIDE
93 Birichino 2019 Mr. Natural No. 3 Enz Vine-
yard Old Vine Mourvèdre (Lime Kiln Valley).
Featuring a label collaboration with illustrations
by cartoonist Robert Crumb, this is a natural wine
done well, starting with lively and peppery aromas
of black raspberry, wet rocks and purple-flower
blossoms. There’s a brilliant sizzle of acidity on the
palate, carrying crisp raspberry and pluot flavors
as well as hints of white pepper and beef. Editors’
Choice. —M.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $40
93 Holly’s Hill 2019 Poco Loco Estate Mourvèdre
(El Dorado). Smooth as silk and overflow-
ing with perfectly ripe fruit flavors, this full-bodied
but elegant wine is hard to resist. Light tannins and
fruit acidity balance the gorgeous red- and black-
cherry flavors and linger through the finish. Editors’
Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.7% Price: $25
93 Kaena 2017 Estelle Vineyard Mourvèdre (Los
Olivos District). Rich aromas of black-plum
pudding, purple flower and warm cola-flavored
cream show on the nose of this single-vineyard bot-
tling. The palate combines a floral extract flavor
with cardamom, nutmeg and black-plum paste, set
atop a creamy texture and finishing with a slight nut
tone. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40
93 Stolpman 2019 Pliocene Mourvèdre (Bal-
lard Canyon). From a densely planted block
of own-rooted, head-pruned, “pre-clonal” vines,
this still-young bottling begins with aromas of
black fruit, wet stone and crumpled violet. There’s
fascinating tension and grip to the palate, with
hints of white pepper, crushed chalk, rose hips and
purple-flower flavors. Drink 2022–2032. Cellar
Selection. —M.K.
abv: 14% Price: $65
RED BLENDS
95 Arietta 2018 H Block Hudson Vineyards
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 156.
Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.9% Price: $150
95 Arietta 2018 Quartet (Napa Valley). This
blends 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24%
Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot
into a cohesive whole of complex structure and
grace. Cedar, pencil shavings, iron and crushed
rock provide a savory foundation complemented by
lush richness in the form of dense blueberry, dark
chocolate and nutmeg. Enjoy best from 2028–2035.
Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.9% Price: $75
95 Arietta 2018 Variation One (Napa Valley).
Blending 58% Syrah with 42% Merlot
both grown on Hudson Vineyard, this is an intrigu-
ing, impressively structured and powerful wine with
enduring grace. It opens in garrigue, iron and oak,
with refined, supple and supportive tannins. Black
192 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
pepper and espresso come to a peak on the long finish,
meshing perfectly with the underlying acidity. —V.B.
abv: 14.9% Price: $100
94 Terre Rouge 2017 L’Autre (Sierra Foothills).
This full-bodied, aromatic and complex
wine opens a spice box full of cedar, clove, tobacco
and tamarind aromas that lead to meaty, mush-
95 Ramey 2016 Template (Napa Valley). Ramey
blends 70% Merlot from Mount Veeder
with 23% Oakville Cabernet Franc and 7% Cab-
roomy flavors backed by moderate tannins for good
balance. It’s hard to find this kind of earthy, spicy,
savory and nuanced wine in California. Editors’
ernet Sauvignon from St. Helena for this winning, Choice. —J.G.
complex wine that substantially overdelivers on its abv: 14.5% Price: $35
price. Herbaceous and earthy in peppercorn, cedar
and clove, it offers remarkable structure and grace
around sublime red fruit and cocoa powder. It will 94 Vina Robles 2018 The Arborist Estate Red
Blend (Paso Robles). For full review see page
age well. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $85
161. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5% Price: $18
95 Ridge 2017 Monte Bello (Santa Cruz Moun-
tains). This iconic bottling, which hails
from mountaintop vines that produce less than 1.5
93 Al Lago 2017 Sonata (California). Roasted
red-plum and strawberry aromas converge
with cured meat, pepper and seared tomato on the
tons per acre, begins with aromas of roasted plum, nose of this blend of 43% Syrah, 33% Cabernet
clove and nutmeg. The blend of 73% Cabernet Sau- Sauvignon, 17% Sangiovese and 7% Cabernet
vignon, 15% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and 4% Cab- Franc. There’s compelling tension to the palate,
ernet Franc is framed by elegantly tense tannins, as
baked plum, mace and cardamom flavors consume
the midpalate, while the finish stays quite fresh.
where black- and white-pepper flavors decorate the
dark-plum and charred meat tones. —M.K.
abv: 14.4% Price: $65
This epitomizes the definition of Cellar Selection.
Drink 2021–2042. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 13.7% Price: $230 93 Anonimo 2016 Red (Paso Robles). This
inventive blend of 74% Sangiovese, 16%
Mourvèdre and 10% Petite Sirah beautifully cap-
94 Anonimo 2017 Red (Paso Robles). This
unique blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10%
Mourvèdre and 10% Petit Verdot by Hearst Ranch’s
tures dark-strawberry, scarlet-red rose-petal,
sumac, cinnamon and milk-chocolate aromas on
the nose. There is a texture of chiseled stone on the
winemaker Soren Christensen works extremely
well. Aromas of black raspberry, clove, nutmeg and
crushed rock leads into a palate that’s both tense in
palate, where dark berry, pepper spice and a hint of
leather interact with ample acidity. —M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $40
structure and yet generous in flavors. Strawberry,
sumac, white peppers and rosewater all make a
showing. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: NA Price: $40
93 Dusty Nabor 2017 NSO (California). Zesty
black raspberry, damson plum, cracked pep-
per, fig paste and a gamy tang show on the nose of
this Grenache and Syrah blend, which is quite com-
94 Arietta 2017 H Block Hudson Vineyards
Cabernet Franc-Merlot (Napa Valley). A
50-50 marriage of Cabernet Franc and Merlot from
plex for the price point. Sagebrush and fennel-bulb
flavors meet with roasted red plum and mulberry on
the intriguing palate. Best Buy. —M.K.
the well-farmed site in Carneros, this red opens in abv: 15% Price: $15
cedar, graphite and iron, with a dusty texture and
enviable structure. Black currant, raspberry and
anise combine around a softness and integration
that endures. —V.B.
93 Harrington 2018 Hard Luck (California).
Baked raspberry and strawberry aromas
meet with clove, wild plum and a hit of herbs on the
abv: 14.9% Price: $150 nose of this bottling. There’s an herbal array to the
palate, where sagebrush flavors meet with rounded
94 Arietta 2017 Quartet (Napa Valley). Dark
and brooding, this blends 68% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and
plum, as firm enough tannins run from front to
back. —M.K.
abv: 13.4% Price: $25
3% Petit Verdot. With savory, herbal components
that contrast beautifully against the juicy plum and
dark currant, the wine finishes in toasted oak. Enjoy
best from 2027–2035. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
93 Harrington 2018 Tempesta (California).
Bryan Harrington championed obscure
grapes in this now-retired brand, including the
abv: 14.9% Price: $75 64% Corvina, a Venetian grape, that he blended
with 36% Pinot Noir in this bottling. Light in the
94
abv: 14%
Daou 2018 Eye of the Falcon Reserve (Paso
Robles). For full review see page 158.
Price: $75
glass, the wine begins with raspberry-paste, rive-
stone and damp soil aromas. Lively flavors of cran-
berry, red currant and candied rose petals show on
94 Niner 2016 Fog Catcher Estate Grown (Paso
Robles). For full review see page 160.
the fascinating sip, which also offers a tense and
stony structure. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 13.2% Price: $30
abv: 14.6% Price: $100
93 Imagery 2017 Gee eS eM (North Coast).
Spicy, complex and mouthfilling, this allur-
ing, oak-influenced wine blends luscious black-fruit nic frame that should last a while. Drink 2021–2037. Together, they make for a bright, thick and earthy
flavors with baking spices, new leather and tobacco Cellar Selection. —M.K. expression of dense red fruit, cedar and cigar box,
nuances for a fascinating and delicious profile. A abv: 14.6% Price: $50 coming together into a full-bodied, impressive
velvety texture of fine-grained tannins nicely wraps whole. —V.B.
up all the chocolate, blackberry and sweet plum fla-
vors. —J.G. 93 Porterhouse Winery 2016 Porterhouse
Reserve (Santa Ynez Valley). Deep and dark
abv: 15.4% Price: $70

abv: 14.9% Price: $45 aromas of black-currant pie, clove, vanilla and
roasted meats emerge from on the nose of this wine, 92 Bargetto 2016 La Vita (Santa Cruz Moun-
tains). Ripe aromas of damson plum,

93 Kaena 2017 Cuvée Lucille Charlies Vineyard

(Ballard Canyon). This blend of 65%
Grenache and 35% Syrah is powerful and rich,
loaded with baked boysenberry, licorice and French
toast spices on the nose. The palate is viscous with
flavors of roasted red plum and chai spices, particu-
larly clove and cardamom. —M.K.
abv: 15.1% Price: $65
which is almost opaque in the glass. The roasted
meat component comes on strong through the pal-
ate, where seared beef and blistered blackberry and
mahogany and licorice kick off the nose of this
unique blend of 47% Refosco, 29% Dolcetto and
24% Nebbiolo. The palate is tightly woven with
blueberry flavors ride a generous acidity. —M.K. tannins that rise into the finish, carrying flavors of
abv: 14.4% Price: $60 boysenberry juice, fennel pollen and wood spice.
Drink now through 2031. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
93 San Lorenzo Winery 2018 Rock Garden Hill-
side (Alexander Valley). Seamless tannin,
abv: 13% Price: $60

93 Limerick Lane 2018 Estate Cuvée (Russian

River Valley). Combining 63% Zinfandel,
27% Syrah and 10% Petite Sirah from the pro-
ducer’s estate, this blend invites one in with aro-
mas and flavors of fresh blackberry, nutmeg and
vanilla bean. Soft and supple on the palate, it has
full-bodied intensity with complex accents of black
pepper, leather and coffee. —V.B.
abv: 14.8% Price: $85
earth, cedar and pencil shavings accent this bold
blend of 90% Zinfandel with 5% Petite Sirah and
5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Clove and vanilla flavors
build on the midpalate. The body weight is sub-
stantial and brightened in blackberry, currant and
cassis. —V.B.
abv: 14.9% Price: $48
93 San Lorenzo Winery 2018 The Pearl (Alexan-
der Valley). This is a field blend from a vine-
yard bought by proprietor Pete Seghesio’s grand-
92 Black Ridge 2015 San Andreas Red (Santa
Cruz Mountains). There’s an elegant
cohesion to this blend of four traditional Bordeaux
grapes (minus the Petit Verdot), offering black
plum, cassis, olive, dried meat and nutmeg spice
on the nose. The palate kicks off on smooth tannins
that slowly rise in firmness, carrying black-plum
and lavender flavors toward the finish. Drink now
through 2030. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 14.2% Price: $60

93 McPrice Myers 2018 Beautiful Earth (Paso

Robles). This blend of 64% Syrah, 12%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Grenache, 6% Mour-
father in 1896, the site itself dating back to 1892.
Leading with 55% Zinfandel, there’s Petite Sirah,
Alicante Bouschet, Carignane and other mixed reds.
vèdre, 4% Petite Sirah and 2% Clairette Blanche
is still young and tight on the nose, but it allows
aromas of black currant, cola and seared wood to

LIVE
emerge. The palate combines black raspberry and
lavender onto a taut frame of tannins that release
their grip with time. —M.K.
abv: 15.2% Price: $40

93 Midnight 2017 Zenith (Paso Robles). This

is a booming blend of 50% Merlot, 25%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Malbec and 12% Petit
Verdot that starts with candied cassis and violet
TO
on the intense and powerful nose. The tannins are
well polished on the sip yet with just enough edge
to carry the dark-fruit, tobacco and lilac flavors into
the finish. —M.K.
abv: 15.4% Price: $75

93 Peake Ranch 2018 Bellis Noir (Sta. Rita

Hills). Wet stone, lavender, black raspberry
and char show on this blend of Syrah and Grenache
from a property where the Rhône grapes are thriv-
ing. The palate is hearty with cassis, tart with black
raspberry, floral with purple buds, and finished on a
savory kick of charred meat. —M.K.
abv: 14.8% Price: $40

CELEBRATE
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93 Pegasus Estate 2017 Quadrille (Santa Ynez

Valley). Fresh black raspberry makes for
a lively aromatic entry to the nose of this blend of
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Product of Spain. D.O.CAVA. Imported from Spain
by Raventos Codorniu North America, Sonoma, CA.

38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Petit Verdot, 25%

Cabernet Franc and 6% Merlot, while crushed lava
rocks add a mineral-like tension. A similar scheme
plays out on the sip, where snappy boysenberry fla-
vors meet with a rocky minerality, packaged in a tan- In 1551 the first cava cellar was born in Barcelona.
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WINEMAG.COM | 193
BUYINGGUIDE
92 Dovecote 2016 Redtail Thompson Vineyard
(Santa Barbara County). For full review see
page 165.
abv: 13% Price: $55
92 Hook or Crook 2018 Field Blend Reserve
(Lodi). For full review see page 165.
abv: 13.5% Price: $24
92 Kaena 2016 Hapa (Santa Ynez Valley). This
is a very rich kitchen-sink blend of 24%
Syrah, 22% Grenache, 22% Merlot, 11% Mour-
vèdre, 11% Tempranillo, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon
and 4% Petit Verdot, starting with aromas of
blackberry jam, black-plum juice, caramel and cola.
There’s a blast of acid at the tip of the sip and a firm
tannic structure, which envelops the cola, fudge,
caramel and dark-fig flavors. —M.K.
abv: 14.9% Price: $45
92 Niner 2017 Heart Hill Vineyard Twisted Spur
(Paso Robles Willow Creek District). For full
review see page 166. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.9% Price: $75
92 Sandar & Hem 2018 Red (Santa Cruz Moun-
tains). This blend of 60% Merlot, 30%
Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
explores the elegant edge of Bordelaise style, start-
ing with aromas of blackberry jam, dark plum and
dark strawberry. The palate is framed by sharp acid-
ity that cuts into the darker purple fruits and main-
tains a medium body throughout. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $44
92 Shannon Ridge 2018 Buck Shack Small
Batch Red Wine (Lake County). For full
review see page 167.
abv: 15% Price: $35
92 Sunstone 2018 Founder’s Reserve (Santa
Ynez Valley). Aromas of dark-red berries,
warm fruitcake and a touch of toasted grape seed
kick off the nose of this blend of 80% Merlot and
20% Cabernet Franc. There is a pleasant freshness
to the palate, where boysenberry and blueberry
flavors meet with roasted wood, cured meat and a
rocky minerality. —M.K.
abv: 14.6% Price: $65
92 Toccata 2017 Riseerva (Santa Barbara
County). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Sangiovese, Merlot, Freisa and Petit Verdot offers a
roadmap for a successful Super Tuscan style. Aro-
mas of roasted black currant and black plum meet
with grilled meats, cola and violet on the dynamic
nose. It approaches the palate smoothly before more
rigid tannins arise, with dark berry, cardamom and
cracked pepper flavors. Drink now through 2032.
Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 14% Price: $39
91 Black Ridge 2015 Winemaker’s Blend (Santa
Cruz Mountains). There’s a structure that
often comes with Santa Cruz Mountain wines that
just won’t quit. This bottling begins with aromas of
oregano, pepper, mahogany, iron and dried cherry
194 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
on the nose, followed by smoked oak, cured meat
and dark cranberry on the palate. But it’s the tan-
nic core that ensures a long, savory life. Drink now
through 2035. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 14.3% Price: $40
91 Chiron Wines 2017 Virtue and Vice (Napa
Valley). This blends 62% Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon, 34% Merlot, 3% Petite Sirah and 1% Petit
Verdot. Plummy, it is juicy and robust on the palate,
with supple, integrated tannin and oak. Baking spice
and black pepper play on the lengthy finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.8% Price: $60
91 Claiborne & Churchill 2018 Red (San Luis
Obispo County). This blend of 65% Syrah
and 35% Grenache offers aromas of concentrated
black plum, boysenberry-pie crust and a hint of star
anise on the nose. The palate pops with plum and
light berry flavors, picking up floral tones of violet
and lilac, as well as a Concord grape touch. —M.K.
abv: 14.6% Price: $46
91 DNA Vineyards 2017 Coro (Mendocino County).
This full-bodied and firmly tannic wine holds
its ample black-cherry and blackberry flavors pretty
tightly so it will pair nicely with braises and roasts
or a mushroom risotto. Best from 2024. —J.G.
abv: 14.1% Price: $40
91 Dovecote 2017 Redtail Thompson Vineyard
(Alisos Canyon). Focused aromas of black
currant, violet extract and charred beef make for a
very floral nose on this blend of 31% Grenache, 23%
Syrah, 23% Mourvèdre and 23% Petite Sirah. There
is black-plum and berry-paste intensity to the sip,
which is delicate in texture and full of purple-flower
and licorice flavors. —M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $55
91 Kaena 2016 Buona Terra Stag Canyon Vine-
yard (Los Olivos District). Strong aromas of
smashed blackberry sauce and black-plum skins
show on the nose of this blend of 66% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 34% Petit Verdot from a vineyard
on the eastern edge of this district. Smooth and soft
tannins are expertly managed on the palate, allow-
ing the dark-fruit flavors to pair with the nutmeg
and mace spice tones. —M.K.
abv: 14.9% Price: $70
91 Kaena 2016 Kuliouou Cuvée Alamo Creek
Ranch (San Luis Obispo County). Strong
aromas of potpourri, blackberry jam, licorice and
sandalwood show on the nose of this blend of 65%
Grenache and 35% Syrah from a hidden vineyard
north of the Santa Maria Valley. The sip is tense in
structure, which frames the exuberant cassis, fig
and baked licorice flavors. —M.K.
abv: 15.6% Price: $40
91 Stolpman 2019 La Cuadrilla (Ballard Canyon).
This blend of 70% Syrah, 15% Grenache and
15% Sangiovese, which is directed by and directly
benefits the winery’s full-time vineyard crew,
begins with aromas of roasted yet crisp red fruit,
rose petals and grilled meats, with an underlying
carbonic tone. The palate is bright and zesty, with
fresh fruits, white-pepper and charred meat flavors.
Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $22
91 Terre Rouge 2017 Tête-à-Tête (Sierra Foot-
hills). This big and engaging wine made from
Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah is full bodied, ripe,
layered and delicious. It gushes with strawberry,
sweet plum and dried cherry flavors supported by
good acidity and moderate tannins. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
WASHINGTON
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
93 DeLille 2017 Four Flags Cabernet Sauvignon
(Red Mountain). This is a blend of fruit from
Upchurch (30%), Ciel du Cheval (27%), Grand Ciel
(24%) and Klipsun vineyards (19%). The aromas
offer notes of sautéed dried herb, raspberry, dry
chocolate and earth. Dense, fresh coffee and cherry
flavors follow. It lingers on the finish, showing a
pleasing sense of brightness. It drinks well now
but seems to be immortal. Best after 2026. Cellar
Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.6% Price: $70
93 DeLille 2017 Lot 3 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red
Mountain). All of the fruit for this wine
comes from Klipsun Vineyard. The aromas pull you
in, with notes of cherry, black currant, barrel spice,
earth and whiffs of satsuma. Full-feeling dark-
chocolate and cherry flavors follow, bring a sense of
density and chewiness. It shows the vibrancy of the
vintage, with compelling structure and impressive
length. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.2% Price: $75
93 DeLille 2017 Shaw Vineyard Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Red Mountain). The aromas draw
you into the glass, with notes of earth, dark cherry,
flower, black currant and raspberry, showing a com-
pelling sense of detail. The palate is dense, full of
plum flavors, backed by tightly wound tannins and
accented by bright acidity. Coffee notes linger on the
finish. It’s hard to resist now but will only get better
with time in the cellar. Best from 2026–2032. Cel-
lar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.1% Price: $75
93 DeLille 2016 Grand Ciel Cabernet Sauvignon
(Red Mountain). The aromas offer notes of
roasted coffee, cherry, black currant, scorched earth
and plum. The flavors show restraint and sophis-
tication, with plenty of stuffing. The acidity of the
vintage brightens it. It has a very long life ahead.
Best after 2026. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.2% Price: $160
93 Gorman 2017 Albatross Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Red Mountain). All varietal and
aged in 100% new French oak, the aromas offer
notes of ripe black cherry, incense and char. Rich,
intense fruit flavors follow. It’s a big hammer of a
wine, bringing power like only this producer can
bring it. Toast notes linger on the finish. Editors’
Choice. —S.S.
abv: 15.2% Price: $80
93 Luke 2018 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Wahluke Slope). Highly regarded Stone-
Tree Vineyard is the dominant fruit source for this
wine. Coffee, dried herb and black-cherry aromas
lead to a palate that brings a whole lot of serious-
ness to it. It’s rich and dense, full of tannic heft.
Give it time to stretch its legs—and drink it at a cool
temperature—to see it at its best. Best after 2025.
Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: NA Price: $60
92 Doubleback 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla
Walla Valley). This wine is a blend of fruit
from McQueen, Lefore, Bob Healy, Seven Hills and
Figgins vineyards. Vibrant aromas of char, dark
chocolate, coffee, cherry and barrel spice lead to
a pleasingly restrained palate, with a tart snap of
acidity. It shows the variety’s sophisticated side.
Best after 2025. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $99
92 Doubleback 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Walla Walla Valley). This is all
McQueen and LeFore vineyard fruit. Coffee and bar-
rel-spice aromas are in the lead at present. The pal-
ate is packed full of tannins and acid structure, with
the fruit currently playing second fiddle. It needs
time in the cellar for the oak to integrate. Best after
2026. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.7% Price: $145
92
Choice.
Luke 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke
Slope). For full review see page 165. Editors’
abv: 14.4% Price: $25
91 Gorman 2017 The Bully Cabernet Sauvignon
(Red Mountain). Blended with 8% Petit Ver-
dot and aged in 90% new French oak, this wine’s
roasted coffee-bean and dark-chocolate aromas are
up front, followed by notes of cherry liqueur. Plen-
tiful, sensuous chocolate and cherry flavors follow,
lingering on the finish. It shows both the vintage
and the winery’s hedonistic style. —S.S.
abv: 15.2% Price: $50
91 Virtue 2018 Charisma Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). Fruit for this wine comes
from Olsen and Solaksen vineyards. Seeing no new
oak, the aromas are pulled back, with notes of herb,
anise, fresh black currant and plum. Exquisitely
pure dark-fruit flavors follow. It’s a window into a
pure expression of the variety, absolutely delicious.
Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $28
90 Airfield Estates 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Yakima Valley). Subtle aromas of match-
stick, cherry and herb lead to plentiful black-cur-
rant, plum and herb flavors brightened by tart acids.
It hasn’t come out of its shell yet but has the stuff-
ing to excel when it does. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.1% Price: $18
90 Dixie & Bass 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). For full review see page
171. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5% Price: $18
90 Gorman 2018 Old Scratch Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Red Mountain). Aromas of blue fruit,
dried herb, barrel spice and graphite lead to plenti-
ful plum flavors. A fresh lick of acidity keeps it all in
focus, despite the high labeled abv. There’s plenty of
tannin to back it up. —S.S.
abv: 15.4% Price: $31
90 Lobo Hills 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). Blended with both Mal-
bec (13%) and Merlot (12%), this wine’s roasted
coffee-bean, scorched earth, herb and raspberry
aromas lead to fruit and barrel flavors that have a
pleasing acidic lift. It will have a very long life ahead
of it. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.25% Price: $25
89 Lady Hill 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum-
bia Valley). The aromas suggest notes of
graphite, bittersweet chocolate, cigar box, anise,
flower and dark cherry. Soft, reserved flavors follow.
It needs more tannin structure to fully stand it up
but it’s an enjoyable expression. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $38
89 Lone Birch 2018 Estate Grown Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Yakima Valley). This wine shows
much of what there is to love about the 2018 vin-
tage: a mouthful of plush, expansive fruit flavors,
with plenty of acidity to back them up. One would
like more aromatically from this quiet wine, but the
palate delivers plenty. Best Buy. —S.S.
abv: 14.2% Price: $13
88 H3 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven
Hills). The aromas offer barrel-forward
notes of baking spice and vanilla in front of cherry.
The reserved blue-fruit and spice flavors show
pleasing balance. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $15
88 Roaming Dog 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). Spice and cherry aromas
lead to lightly sweet dark-fruit flavors. It’s a pleas-
ant easy drinker. Best Buy. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $13
SYRAH
97 Liminal 2018 High Canyon Series Weather-
Eye Vineyard Syrah (Red Mountain). Com-
ing from a canyon high up on Red Mountain and
aged in 18% new French oak, the aromas pull you
into the glass, with notes of mulberry, blackberry,
kirsch, earth, crushed rock, coffee and bacon fat.
There’s depth, intensity, richness, layering, polish,
and texture to the palate. The finish is endless. This
wine has it all, with the impressive balance, inten-
sity, acidity and length separating it far out front. It
sings from the top of Red Mountain. Best after 2026.
Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.8% Price: $75
96 Liminal 2018 Block Highlight Series Block
16 WeatherEye Vineyard Syrah (Columbia
Valley). Fruit for this wine comes from the highest
block currently planted on Red Mountain, north fac-
ing at the top of the ridge, outside the AVA bound-
aries. Aged in 25% new French oak, it’s the most
brooding of the winery’s inaugural releases, with
notes of dried herb, blackberry, coffee and clove. It’s
dazzling in its intensity and layering, saturating the
palate from end to end while still showing fleetness
of foot. Packed full of tannin and acid, it absolutely
sails on the finish. The balance is exquisite. Best
after 2025. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.8% Price: $60
94 Luke 2018 Reserve Syrah (Wahluke Slope).
For full review see page 159. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.7% Price: $45
93 Betz Family 2018 Domaine de Pierres Syrah
(Walla Walla Valley). The aromas offer notes
of iron, firepit, stem, Mandarin orange and black
olive—classically Rocks District. The firepit and
other savory flavors are intense, bringing textural
richness, lingering on the finish. It’s the winery’s
most complete and captivating offering from the
Rocks to date. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $62
93 Betz Family 2018 La Côte Patriarche Red
Willow Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley). The
heart of this wine is fruit from the original 1986
plantings at this vineyard, the first Syrah vines in
the state. The aromas pop, with notes of mulberry,
huckleberry, dark plum, leather, fresh clove, spice
and dark fruit. Full fruit flavors follow, bringing
tannic heft that augurs well for its longevity. Best
after 2025. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 13.7% Price: $62
93 Structure 2018 Bauhaus Syrah (Columbia
Valley). A blend of Wallula (60%) and
Stillwater Creek fruit, the aromas are captivating,
with notes of dark raspberry, bramble and herb that
show a piercing sense of purity. The flavors are daz-
zling, showing intensity and depth but also elegance
and balance. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It’s a
frankly delicious wine, but it’s the structure—and
the quality at this price—that impresses most. Best
after 2023 with an extremely long life ahead of that.
Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.6% Price: $30
93 Virtue 2018 Sincerity Syrah (Columbia Valley).
All of the fruit for this wine comes from Wal-
lula Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. The aromas
pop, with notes of freshly chopped parsley, whole
tangerine, fresh boysenberry and smoked meat.
Rich, layered flavors follow. It brings intensity and
WINEMAG.COM | 195
BUYINGGUIDE
depth, but there is still plenty of freshness. But it’s
the purity and lengthy finish that captivate. —S.S.
abv: 14.3% Price: $25
92 Betz Family 2018 La Côte Rousse Syrah (Red
Mountain). Cofermented with 6% Viognier,
the aromas are lifted, with notes of boysenberry pie,
fresh flower and orange peel. It’s a mouthful of blue-
and purple-fruit flavors, showing impressive fresh-
ness and deftness for this warm appellation. —S.S.
abv: 13.9% Price: $62
92 Betz Family 2018 La Serenne Boushey Vine-
yard Syrah (Yakima Valley). Blackberry,
smoked meat, plum, dried herb and medicine aro-
mas lead to expressive fruit flavors, with light
Robitussin cough-syrup accents. It puts a premium
on elegance. The most backward initially of the
2018 releases, it is tightly clenched at present. Best
after 2025. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 13.9% Price: $62
92 Luke 2018 Syrah (Wahluke Slope). Aromas of
black raspberry, scorched earth and pome-
granate lead to rich fruit flavors. It’s a no holds
barred, rich, intense Syrah. Decant if drinking in
the near term. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.8% Price: $25
92 Structure 2018 Foundation Syrah (Columbia
Valley). This blend of Stillwater Creek,
Wallula and Red Willow fruit is everything there
is to love about this variety: compelling aromatics
and great depth of flavor. Alluring aromas of flower
fresh, chopped parsley, boysenberry, smoked meat
and medicine lead to full-bodied layered flavors.
Though delicious now, it appears it will be near
eternal. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $35
91 Airfield Estates 2017 Reserve Syrah (Yakima
Valley). The aromas offer notes of orange oil,
smoked meat, medicine, fresh herb and dark fruit.
An assortment of sleek-feeling orange-peel, plum
and savory flavors follow, with the orange notes
showing prominently at present. Coffee flavors lin-
ger on the finish. —S.S.
abv: 14.3% Price: $30
91 DeLille 2017 Signature Syrah (Columbia Val-
ley). Ciel du Cheval fruit makes up 71% of
this wine, with the rest from StoneTree. Aromas of
coffee, lavender, earth and assorted dried herbs are
followed by a sleek but flavorful palate that shows
the acidity of the vintage. Drink now. —S.S.
abv: 14.6% Price: $46
91 DeLille 2016 Grand Ciel Syrah (Red Mountain).
The aromas suggest notes of iron, medicine
and earth, along with dark berry. The palate has
depth of flavor but with an acidic snap that ups the
ante. —S.S.
abv: 14.1% Price: $75
91 Proper 2018 Estate Syrah (Walla Walla Val-
ley). This wine could only come from one
place, with its aromas of wet rock, savory herb,
196 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
flower, plum, orange rind and olive brine. The palate
shows a sense of deftness to the fruit and savory fla-
vors, along with the Rocks District’s plush feel. —S.S.
abv: 14.1% Price: $65
91 Structure 2017 Red Willow Vineyard Syrah
(Yakima Valley). This wine comes from one
of the state’s top Syrah sites. Compelling aromas of
dark raspberry, bramble, smoked meat and medi-
cine lead to plentiful, lightly tacky-feeling fruit fla-
vors. The acid of the vintage drives it, and it shows
an impeccable sense of balance. Drink in the near-
ish term. —S.S.
abv: NA Price: $35
90 Gorman 2018 Sleeping Giant Boushey Vine-
yard Syrah (Yakima Valley). Coming from
one of the state’s top Syrah sites, aromas of spice,
dark fruit and sugared plum lead to raspberry fla-
vors that are more restrained than the aromas might
suggest. It shows the riper side of the variety. —S.S.
abv: 15.6% Price: $60
89 Gorman 2017 The Pixie Syrah (Red Moun-
tain). Aromas of barnyard, hay and berry
lead to fruit and savory flavors that are more sleek
and center focused than the norm for this producer.
As with many wines from this vintage, there is a
pleasing acidic snap. —S.S.
abv: 14.8% Price: $45
88 Lobo Hills 2015 StoneTree Vineyard Syrah
(Wahluke Slope). The aromas bring notes
of manure, licorice, berry and whiffs of oak spice.
Especially considering the warmth of the vintage,
the palate is surprisingly reserved, trailing on the
finish. —S.S.
abv: 13.75% Price: $30
88 Lone Birch 2018 Estate Grown Syrah (Yakima
Valley). Showing some reduction initially,
the aromas suggest notes of char, black raspberry
and gravel. The palate is deft and up front, trailing
a bit toward the finish but overall showing good
balance. There’s plenty of value to be had. Best
Buy. —S.S.
abv: 14.1% Price: $13
RED BLENDS
96 Liminal 2018 Vineyard Series WeatherEye
Vineyard G-S-M (Columbia Valley). Fruit
for this inaugural wine comes from a new site up
and over the top of Red Mountain and down onto
the north side. Grenache makes up 42%, followed
by Mourvèdre (38%) and Syrah. The aromas bring
notes of pomegranate, mulberry, crushed rock,
savory herb and black pepper. It’s a big mouthful of
a wine, rich, layered and intense, with earthshaking
intensity and plenty of tension. There’s impressive
tannin and an abundance of acidity to enliven it all.
The fruit-filled finish seems near endless. It’s a new
benchmark for Rhône-style blends in Washington.
Best after 2025. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.9% Price: $60
94 Betz Family 2018 Bésoleil (Columbia Val-
ley). Grenache makes up 46% of this wine,
with Mourvèdre and Counoise each accounting for
24% and the balance being Syrah. With the major-
ity of the fruit coming from Olsen Vineyard in
Yakima Valley, the aromas explode from the glass,
with notes of raspberry, smoked meat, huckleberry
and white pepper. The palate has dense, textured,
layered fruit flavors but still remains fleet of foot.
There is a compelling sense of freshness and texture
to it. It’s a complete dazzler. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 13.8% Price: $48
93 Cadence 2017 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard (Red
Mountain). Cabernet Franc (42%) is in the
lead on this wine, with Cabernet Sauvignon (33%),
Petit Verdot (17%) and Merlot following. Brooding
aromas of black currant, anise, dried and fresh herb,
scorched earth and boysenberry lead to a tightly
packed, highly structured palate, with mouthwater-
ing flavors. It will be timeless, but best after 2026.
Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $45
93 Cadence 2017 Tapteil Vineyard (Red Moun-
tain). Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 43% of
this wine, with the rest Cabernet Franc (29%) and
Merlot. The aromas pop, with notes of raspberry,
flower, fresh herb, black currant and scorched earth.
The palate is tightly coiled, packed full of bold tan-
nin and bright acids. It’s a classic example of the
vintage, region and this producer’s style. Best from
2024–2032. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $45
93 DeLille 2017 Chaleur Estate (Red Mountain).
Cabernet Sauvignon (65%) and Merlot
(25%) make up the heart of this wine, with the rest
Cabernet Franc (8%) and Petit Verdot. The aromas
show complexity, with notes of barrel spice, plum,
cherry, scorched earth, herb and licorice. Struc-
tured, rich fruit flavors with lively acids, big tan-
nins and a hyperextended finish follow. It will have
a very long life ahead of it. Best after 2027. Cellar
Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $85
93 Gorman 2018 Evil Twin Syrah-Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Red Mountain). An 80-20 blend, the
aromas provide appeal, with notes of iron and other
minerals along with plum and dark fruit. Dense, lay-
ered, rich blue- and black-fruit flavors follow, with
plenty of tannins providing the scaffolding. It’s a
hedonistic delight, made in this producer’s trade-
mark power-packed style. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 15.3% Price: $65
92 Cadence 2017 Bel Canto Cara Mia Vineyard
(Red Mountain). Cabernet Franc (73%)
makes up most of this wine, with the balance Merlot
(18%) and Petit Verdot. The aromas aren’t ready to
reveal themselves, opening to show notes of earth,
flower and fresh herb. The flavors are textured,
undulating across the palate. It brings a sense of
intensity and freshness that is thoroughly captivat-
ing. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $60
92 Cadence 2017 Camerata Cara Mia Vineyard
(Red Mountain). This is a rare 100% Cab-
ernet Sauvignon from this producer. The aromas
are compelling, with notes of scorched earth, flower
and cherry, showing an unmistakable Cara Mia pro-
file. A dense, structured palate follows. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $60
92 Gorman 2018 Zachary’s Ladder (Red Moun-
tain). It seems that 2018 was a bountiful
vintage, and this wine offers its cornucopia of fruit.
nougat and cassis aromas lead to ripe, intense but
still-balanced fruit flavors that pack a big punch.
Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
Cherry- and raspberry-gummy aromas are followed abv: 15.1% Price: $30
by plump, rounded fruit flavors that show impressive
depth, layering and plenty of structure to support it
all. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.9% Price: $35
91 Lobo Hills 2017 Right Bank Blend (Columbia
Valley). This is Merlot blended with Caber-
net Sauvignon (18%) and Cabernet Franc (9%).

92 DeLille 2017 D2 (Columbia Valley). Merlot

makes up two-thirds of this wine, with the
rest Cabernet Sauvignon along with bits of Cabernet
Franc and Petit Verdot. The aromas are unique, with
notes of bittersweet chocolate, cedar, black tea, and
raspberry. The palate is sleek in style, filling in over
time, bringing a lovely sense of finesse and balance.
Bright acidity ups the interest. Give it some time in
the cellar to see it at its best. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.2% Price: $48
92 Luke 2018 The Companion Red Blend
(Columbia Valley). For full review see page
165. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.2% Price: $22
92 Structure 2018 The Newel (Columbia Valley).
This is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40%
Syrah. Its fresh garden-herb, flower stem and cherry
aromas are out front. The fruit flavors are palate
coating, showing pleasing density and intensity.
Coffee, cherry and herb aromas are followed by a
pleasingly reserved style. Coffee notes linger on the
finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14% Price: $20
91 Rôtie Cellars 2017 Homage (Washington).
Mourvèdre makes up 70% of this wine, with
the rest Syrah (20%) and Grenache. Aromas of
black pepper, smoked meat, blue fruit and herb lead
to a palate that shows more of the same and brings
a sense of liveliness. Olive notes linger on the finish.

92 DeLille 2017 Doyenne (Yakima Valley). This

is 60% Syrah and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon.
The aromas bring notes of brown spices, berry and
Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.3% Price: $28
Pair it with grilled lamb. —S.S.
abv: 15.2% Price: $65

barrel toast. The coffee and cherry flavors are sleek

in feel initially, broadening with time open. —S.S.
abv: 14.6% Price: $45
92 Virtue 2018 Fortitude (Columbia Valley).
This is 48% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon and 25% Malbec, with fruit coming from Olsen
90 Airfield Estates 2018 Dauntless (Yakima
Valley). This Right Bank-style blend offers
aromas of dark raspberry, black currant, toast and
and Solaksen vineyards. The aromas are compel- fresh herb aromas. Plum, raspberry and cherry fla-

92 DeLille 2017 Harrison Hill (Snipes Mountain).

Two-thirds of this are Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon, with the rest Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Its
pleasing aromas of roasted coffee bean, fresh savory
herb, green flower and cherry are followed by light,
elegant flavors. Toasty flavors linger on the finish.
It’s a very pretty, elegant expression of this site with
a very long life ahead of it. Best after 2027. Cellar
Selection. —S.S.
abv: 13.7% Price: $98
ling, with notes of raspberry, dried herb, plum and
cherry, showing mesmerizing purity. Full, achingly
pure flavors follow, with knee-buckling texture. It’s
vors follow. There is a lot to like. Best after 2022.
Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14% Price: $18
an end-to-end delight. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $24
90 Cadence 2018 Coda (Red Mountain). Caber-
net Franc makes up 37% of this blend, with
92 Virtue 2018 Unity G-S-M (Columbia Valley).
Syrah makes up 48% of this wine, with the
rest 32% Mourvèdre and 20% Grenache. With fruit
the rest Merlot (29%), Cabernet Sauvignon 23%)
and Petit Verdot. The aromas are locked up on first
pour, with notes of whole orange, raspberry, cherry
coming from Wallula, Des Etes Long, and Thunder- and herb that show freshness. Soft, plush fruit fla-
stone vineyards and seeing only second-fill and vors follow. It’s less overtly structure-driven than-

92 DeLille 2018 Métier (Columbia Valley).

This delicious wine is a blend of Mourvè-
dre (50%), Grenache (28%), Syrah (20%) and
Cinsault. The aromas bring notes of iron, earth,
dried herb, flower and berry. The palate is pure,
rich unadulterated hedonism, with superb length.
Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.7% Price: $40
neutral oak, the aromas are light but intriguing,
with notes of smoked meat, medicine, fresh parsley,
plum and berry. It’s beautifully textured but still
previous offerings, but still has plenty of longevity
in it. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $28
sleek and velvety in feel, showing exquisite polish,
structure and a long finish. It’s gorgeous stuff at a
can’t-be-beat price. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. CLASSIFIEDS
abv: 14.4% Price: $24

92 DeLille 2017 Red Willow Vineyard (Yakima

Valley). Cabernet Franc (54%) makes up
over half of this wine, with the rest Merlot (32%)
and Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromas are generous,
with notes of barrel toast, fresh herb, raspberry,
black currant and soil. Ripe, plush flavors follow,
showing pleasing purity, freshness and length.
Tasty now, it will have a long very life ahead. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $75
91 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2017 Artist Series
(Columbia Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon
accounts for 56% of this wine, with the rest Merlot
(39%) and smidgen of Malbec and Cabernet Franc.
The aromas are brooding, with notes of barrel spice,
dark chocolate, dried and black cherry. Creamy fruit
and barrel flavors follow, showing an appealing tex-
ture. Coffee and raspberry notes linger on the finish.
It’s a complete charmer. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $65

92 Gorman 2018 The Devil You Know (Columbia

Valley). A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sau-
vignon and Petit Verdot, its barrel aromas are out
front initially, with notes of coffee and baking spice
followed by cherry. Plentiful pit-fruit flavors follow,
showing a lovely sense of balance. It’s thoroughly
delicious. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $30
91 DeLille 2017 Minuit (Yakima Valley). Malbec
makes up 70% of this wine, with the rest
Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of satsuma, cedar,
plum and herb lead to plump fruit flavors. It’s thor-
oughly enchanting. —S.S.
abv: 14.2% Price: $54
91 Gorman 2018 The Devil You Don’t Know
(Columbia Valley). Like many wines from this
producer, this one puts an emphasis on hedonism,
and it brings plenty of it. Plum, coffee, mineral,

WINEMAG.COM | 197
BUYINGGUIDE
SPIRITS
Blended Scotch with added intrigue
C
onventional wisdom about blended Scotch
is that it’s an everyday dram that’s engi-
neered for consistency. It’s easy-drinking
in terms of flavor and proof, and tends to
be priced with an eye toward value.
While that’s true of many, it’s not uni-
versal. In fact, a growing number of blended
Scotch bottlings are complex
and intriguing, and a handful
are clearly priced as special- Many blends are
occasion sippers. While consis- produced in limited
tency still is prized, many blends
quantities, yielding
are produced in limited quanti-
ties, yielding just as few hard-
just as few
to-duplicate bottles as a small- hard-to-duplicate
batch single malts. bottles as small-
Consider, for example, Hedo-
batch single malts.
nism Felicitas, produced by
Compass Box to celebrate the
brand’s 20th anniversary. When the brand
launched in 2000, the vanilla-forward Hedo-
nism was its first product. The new limited-
edition Felicitas comprises three grain whiskies,
each distilled in a different decade. Despite its
custardy plushness—a Hedonism on steroids—
it’s complex and bottled at 106 proof, not
94 Compass Box Hedonism Felicitas Scotch
(Scotland; MHW Ltd., Manhasset, NY).
Released to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the
Compass Box brand in 2020, this special, higher-
octane edition of the Hedonism expression is worth
seeking out. Look for fresh apple and almond aro-
mas. The notably soft, plush palate opens with
vanilla custard and warm baked apple, finishing
gently on a cloud of sweet spices and final burst of
cinnamon. A splash of water brings more vanilla
forward, so each sip suggests cinnamon buns or
vanilla French toast.
abv: 53% Price: $175
93 Duncan Taylor Politician Blended Scotch
(Scotland; Shand Import, Duarte, CA). So
named because it was originally an exclusive for The
Politician bar on Scotland’s remote Eriskay island,
this golden whisky has a mild, slightly floral aroma.
Hints of almond butter, pear and white flowers lead
198 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
exactly a standard easy-sipper for entry-level
whisky fans.
Despite famously strict regulations from
Scotch’s governing agency, producers employ
a number of tools and techniques to stretch
boundaries. Just look to “teaspooned” blends
like Peatside, meaning it’s 99.9% of one sin-
gle malt, and .01% (a teaspoon)
of a sister malt, or Syndicate
58/6, which is finished in a sol-
era system—in other words,
it may contain tiny traces of
older whiskies. And while fin-
ishing Scotch in casks that pre-
viously held other spirits or
wines is a long-held tradition,
mezcal is a relative newcomer
to the toolbox. Witness stalwart
Dewar’s experiment with Illegal
Mezcal-finished Scotch.
These bottles defy many of the usual expec-
tations about blended Scotch and that’s not
necessarily a bad thing. An old reliable is great
to have on hand, but since every day is a little
different, maybe it’s best to have more than one
“everyday dram” to enjoy. —Kara Newman
into a warming toasted coconut finish laced with
plenty of tingly white pepper. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $20
92 Blackadder Puff Adder Scotch (Scotland;
Glass Revolution, Las Vegas, NV). This pale-
straw blended whisky offers a fresh apple aroma.
The buttery palate echoes that apple sweetness,
layering it with moderate smokiness, coconut and
black pepper. With repeated sips, the balance shifts,
with smokiness overtaking the fruit and spice, fin-
ishing on iodine and saline. Still, it’s a moderate
amount of smoke that enhances rather than engulfs.
abv: 46% Price: $73
92 Monkey Shoulder Scotch (Scotland; William
Grant & Sons, New York, NY). This blended
Scotch opens with a bright, fresh-cut apple aroma.
On the palate, butterscotch richness gives way to
mild hints of smoke and juicy citrus. This versatile
pour could be enjoyed on its own or recommended
for mixing. Best Buy.
abv: 43% Price: $33
92 The Islay Boys Flatnose Blended Scotch
(Scotland; Shand Import, Duarte, CA).
Golden and bright in the glass, this whisky offers
mild aromas of toasted grain, hops and white flow-
ers. The silky, delicate palate echoes that grainy
note, alongside oatmeal and a flicker of gingery
spice. Mouthwatering sea salt trails off into the long
finish. Best Buy.
abv: 43% Price: $35
90 Islay Mist 8-Year Scotch (Scotland; M.S.
Walker, Boston, MA). Made at Laphroaig,
the Islay distillery famed turning out uber-peaty
single malts, this blended Scotch offers a more
moderate approach to peat. Look for a wispy peated
aroma and mild, pleasant smokiness on the palate
mixed with almond sweetness. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $26
90 Murray McDavid 2010 Peatside 6 Year Old
Scotch (Scotland; Glass Revolution, Las
Vegas, NV). This limited edition is a teaspooned
Scotch, meaning what’s in the bottle is 99.9% sin-
gle malt from one distillery, plus a small amount of
whisky from another distillery, just enough to call it
a blend. Sweet smoke aromas entice the nose. The
palate echoes that note, reading as cigar wrapper
and cigar smoke, honey and stewed fruit. Peppery
spice and alcohol heat make for a drying, somewhat
numbing sip. Adding water unfurls a smokier note.
abv: 46% Price: $65
88 Wemyss Malts Spice King Scotch (Scotland;
Palm Bay International, Port Washington,
NY). Concentrated vanilla frames the nose and
palate. The first sips also reveal mellow cinnamon
and cocoa, rounding into a baked apple note on the
warming finish.
abv: 46% Price: $55
87 Syndicate 58/6 Blended Scotch Whisky
(Scotland; Worldwide Libations, Lyndhurst,
NJ). Made with a blend of malt and grain whiskies,
this blended Scotch is finished in a solera system.
It drinks like a relatively young whisky, however.
Soft floral aromas are at odds with the otherwise
herbaceous profile of this Scotch. It opens brisk,
tingly and slightly mentholated, with hints of hops,
espresso and bitter orange peel. The finish is long
and medicinal, with a final citrusy astringency and
burst of alcohol heat.
abv: 43% Price: $64
86 Dewar’s Illegal Smooth Mezcal Cask Finish
Scotch (Scotland; Bacardi, Coral Gables, FL).
This innovative bottling rests an eight-year-old
blended Scotch in a cask that previously held Illegal
Mezcal for one month. The result is smoky tinge in
the aroma and a palate that layers a core of honey
with hints of smoke and rubber.
abv: 40% Price: $22
 BEER
Finding beauty in barleywine
A
second mug of barleywine always seems
like a good idea at the time, but the
next morning tells a different story.
The strong, dark ale is a historical
style that remains popular with a small sec-
tion of brewers and drinkers, but has largely
fallen by the wayside in the mainstream beer
drinking community.
This is a shame because
there is real depth and beauty
There is real depth
in this malt-forward style that’s
built to age and evolve over time. and beauty in this
The colors range from deep cop- malt-forward
per, to tawny brown and gar- style that’s built to
net. There are even some nearly
age and evolve over
black pours.
While fun to look at, the time.
real marvel is the oxidized fla-
vor, which at times resembles wet cardboard
and is acceptable in this style, especially in
aged versions. Candied flavors like rich cara-
mel, butterscotch and fudgy chocolate appear
in some versions, while tones of aged leather
and wet pipe tobacco arise in others. Sherry-
like aromas and warming alcohol sensations are
also hallmarks of the style.
97 Lakefront 2019 Black Friday Barleywine
(Barrel-aged Barleywine; Lakefront Brew-
ery, WI). The strength of this barleywine is that it
stands tall on its own and the barrels only play a
small role in the overall flavor. The wood is impor-
tant, mind you, and offers up the vanilla and spice
components that one expects from Bourbon barrels,
but the base beer offers tones of caramel, butter-
scotch and light minerality. An annual release from
the brewery available on the day after Thanksgiving,
this will age well over the next five years or can be
consumed immediately.
abv: 14.8% Price: $20/22 oz
96 Cigar City Leon (Barrel-aged Barleywine;
Cigar City Brewing, FL). This is barleywine
has a vinous background, thanks in part to the
brandy barrels this was aged in. A special release
from the brewery, it is dark brown in color, with no
discernable head and a big, boozy kick on the fin-
ish that swirls with notes of smooth leather, pipe
English barleywines are typically more malt
focused, while American versions can have
heartier doses of hops that add earthy or fruity
flavors to the brew.
Some brewers choose to release barleywines
in the colder months of the year as annual offer-
ings. One of the largest and best known is Big-
foot from Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. In recent
years, the California-based
brewery has been offering ver-
tical packs of the beer, let-
ting drinkers taste three pre-
vious years against the current
batch. Thomas Hardy, a United
Kingdom-based brewer also
releases an annual barleywine
ale, a tradition that stretches
back more than 50 years.
Because of its high alcohol content and abil-
ity to age gracefully, a lot of brewers will design
barleywines to condition in spirit or wine
barrels, adding exciting flavors to the mix. To
add to the specialness, quite a few brewers
choose to dip the bottles in wax, adding to the
presentation.
Cheers! —John Holl
tobacco and decadent caramel. It goes down easier
than the posted alcohol might suggest and a full
bottle empties quickly.
abv: 14.8% Price: $35/750 ml
95 Springdale 2019 Grain Reaper (Barrel-aged
Barleywine; Springdale Beer Co., MA). The
color of rich caramel, this barleywine starts off with
a big, fluffy off-white head that dissipates quickly. It
shows some age from both the mature base beer as
well as the wood it spent time in. Vanilla, oak and a
wonderful spiciness mix with red berry, leather and
a whiff of wet tobacco.
abv: 10.6% Price: $12/500 ml
94 Cigar City Stakhanov’s Barleywine (Barrel-
aged Barleywine; Cigar City Brewing, FL).
Thick and nearly black in color, this barleywine
has many stout-like elements to it. A special, lim-
ited release from the brewery in collaboration
with Three Weavers Brewing, this is full of savory
flavors of aged soy and fish sauce. It is the umami
that brings you back sip after sip as flavors of dark
chocolate, Bourbon and caramel slowly unfold on
the palate. Drink soon.
abv: 11.1% Price: $35/750 ml
94 Port Brewing Don’t Drink Barleywine
(Barleywine; Port Brewing Co., CA). A col-
laboration with the group Don’t Drink Beer, which
promotes the “Barleywine is Life” mantra, this is
a straightforward example of the style without the
bells and whistles of barrel aging or adjuncts. It
should age nicely, but enjoyed young it has an earthy
hop bitterness accented by raisin, dried tobacco and
pine tar.
abv: 10.5% Price: $8/19.2 oz
93 Thomas Hardy 50th Anniversary Golden
Edition (English Barleywine; MHW Imports,
NY). Packaged in 2018 but still available on store
shelves, this golden anniversary offering of a revered
barleywine is heavy on the Sherry notes, with hints
of aged leather, butterscotch and red berries. It’s a
warming ale that’s low carbonation and streamlined
in mouthfeel. As it sits it releases a whiff of tobacco.
Beloved for a reason, it is never too early to start a
collection of this annual release and enjoy it over
the years.
abv: 13% Price: $11/11.5 oz
93 Weathered Souls Barrel Aged #BIL (Barrel-
aged Barleywine; Weathered Souls Brewing,
TX). The color of golden honey and topped with a
frothy off-white head, this barleywine relies heavily
on the Bourbon barrels it was aged in. Big on soft
vanilla, toffee and a sharp oak kick, the base beer
is somewhat thin, making it easy drinking. It shows
some pleasing oxidation alongside flavors of cara-
mel and bready malt.
abv: 14% Price: $26/500 ml
92 Sun King Johan Barleywine (Barrel-aged
Barleywine; Sun King Brewery, IN). Bursting
with aromas of butterscotch and caramel, this dark
mahogany colored ale is sprightly in both its car-
bonation and flavor. Where some barleywines might
be stodgy, this has life and lift to it, starting with
a slightly fudgy note all the way to a mild vanilla
finish.
abv: 10% Price: $20 /16 oz 2 pack
88 Burlington Beer Co. Mahogany & Tweed
(Barrel-aged Barleywine; Burlington Beer
Co., VT). Thanks to a viscous mouthfeel, there is no
mistaking the maple in here. Reminiscent of pan-
cake breakfast syrup from a diner, this is a sticky,
rustic ale, with a faint metallic note on the finish. It
was aged in Cognac barrels.
abv: 12% Price: $32 /16 oz 4 pack
WINEMAG.COM | 199

CAMPING W
AMONG THE
VINES
When writer and editor
Kristen Richard found
herself alone at night, the
vineyard around her was
a source of comfort.
200 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020
TENTS AND TRELLISING
alking back from my car to my campsite after exploring Yosemite
for a few hours, I was struck by the silence.  It was my first
time in California, and visiting Yosemite had been a dream of
mine. When I found a campsite that also had a small backyard
vineyard, I couldn’t resist.
So, I took the five-hour drive from Sonoma through winding mountain roads to get
to my campsite. Finally, I reached the narrow dirt road, just a mile or two from where
I’d be sleeping. The journey was so treacherous it took me around 30 minutes to reach
the site, and my entire car was covered in a thick
layer of red dirt. 
As the sun set lower in the sky, a wave of anxiety When I found a
washed over me. I felt completely alone.
campsite that
Despite spending just about every free weekend
I had camping or hiking, I had never done it by
also had a small
myself. Each crunch in the grass made me jump, backyard vineyard, I
and What if something happens and no one knows? couldn’t resist.
started creeping through my mind.
But as I stood in the small backyard vineyard
and looked up at the Milky Way (which I had never seen before, having lived in or
around cities my whole life), I started thinking about wine. And how when I first
started learning about this complex yet beautiful drink, I was intimidated by words
like “terroir” and “dosage,” and had no idea what tasting notes meant.
Learning about wine was somewhat anxiety-inducing at first, but before I knew it, I
was able to hold my own in a conversation about the drink. And through that, I gained
a deep appreciation for and comfort from what was in my glass, more so than I ever
thought possible. 
Standing near the vines, near something that was so familiar, I took a deep breath
in and thought, I got this, I am going to be okay.
AMBER DAY
I curled up in my sleeping bag to get ready for bed. I had a long day of solo hiking
ahead of me.