CHAPTER 2

The principal part of the shoe-

The anatomy of a shoe can be divided broadly in an:

 Upper part and Bottom part.

 Section of upper part include- Vamp, Quarter, Toecap, Throat, Top line etc.

 The section of lower (Bottom part) consist of an- Insole, Outsole, shank and Heel.

I) Upper (part) of the shoe- All parts or sections of the shoe above the sole/ insole that are
stitched or otherwise joint together to become a unit and then attached to the insole
and outsole is called Upper of a shoe.

Upper: The entire part of the shoe that covers the foot.
Upper part consists of:

1) Vamp- It is front of the shoe. It covers and protects

the toes and the front portion of the foot. The
section of upper that covers the front of the foot as
far as the back as the join to the quarter. It can be
with or without tongue. It is made of more than one
piece, creating a decorative pattern

Types of Vamp:

a) Toecaps and Wing caps-

A conventional toecap is set squarely across the

shoe. A wing cap is angled back to give a
streamlined effect. This may cover the toes in an
intricate flowing curve or may lie simply round
the wall edge.

b) Aprons and Vamp Wings-

The vamp could also be divided into an apron

covering part of the top of the foot and wings
enclosing the side wall of the foot. The positions of
the vamp and apron can vary however; the seam
joining them will follow more or less the edge the last
where it changes from the horizontal to the vertical
plane.

c) Tongues and Tabs-

A vamp may have a separate tongue or the vamp and

tongue may be cut all in one piece (there are so many
variations).
d) Peeptoes Vamp

The toe can be left open and then the vamp would
consist of only a single strap or a series of straps
depending on the design. Keep in mind there are
so many possible variations it would be impossible
to cover all the variations of vamps.

2) Quarters-

Quarters are the complete upper part of the shoe behind the vamp line covering the
sides and back part of the shoe. The top edge of the sides and back of the quarter
describes the topline. In athletic shoes the topline is usually padded and referred to
as a collar. Topline: The top edge of the upper

The medial and lateral sections join in a seam at the posterior end of the shoe. In
Oxford style lacing shoes, the eyelet section is formed by the superior part of the
quarter (while the underlying tongue is part of the vamp). Some shoe designs use a
continuous piece of leather for the vamp and quarter.

3) Counters-

Elementary shoe is made of two quarters

which are joined at the back. It is sometime
desirable to eliminate this heel seam so that
back of the shoe is cut as one piece. This one
piece is called as Counter

Counter – A piece of material forming the back

of a shoe to give support and stiffen the
material around the heel.

Even with a one piece counter it is necessary to have a small back seam to help shape
the counter to the last shape at the back. Now days, this seam is eliminated
completely.
4) Linings-

In quality shoes the quarters and vamps are lined to enhance comfort and durability.
Linings may consist of various materials i.e. leathers, fabrics, and manmade
synthetics. The lining on the insole segment is called 'the sock' and may be full-
length, three-quarter or just the heel section. Many linings are made of synthetic
material and are usually confined to the quarters and the insock.

5) Toe cap -

Many shoes incorporate a toecap

into the upper of the shoe. Toecaps
are either stitched over or
completely replace the distal superior aspect of the vamp and can be made into a
decorative features referred to as toe tips.

The toe box refers to the roofed area over and around the part of the shoe that
covers the toes. The function of the toe box is to retain the shape of the forefoot and
allow room for the toes. The height and width of the toe box is dictated by shape of
 the last used to construct the shoe. Certain types of non-athletic and athletic
footgear will offer extra depth in the toe box.

Deep toe box. The toe box is the front part of the shoe where the toes are. The extra
depth pro-vides plenty of room for a forefoot.

6) Throat-

The throat of a shoe is the top opening that you put your foot into. The central part
of the vamp just proximal to the toe box. The throat is formed by the seam joining
the vamp to the quarter i.e. throatline. The position of the throat line depends on
the construction of the shoe, for example a shorter vamp and longer quarters define
 a lower throat line. This gives a wider lower opening for the foot to enter the shoe.
The throat is defined by the connection of the rear edge of the vamp and the front
part of the quarter. The location of the throat will vary with the design of the shoe.

Throa

V Shape

7) Appliqués’-

Duplicate pieces are attached to vamps or quarters which are already complete.
These extra pieces Appliqué do not perform functions essential to the composition
of shoe but affect its appearance. They add to the strength of a shoe by providing a
double layer on the upper. They will cover seams which might otherwise be
subjected to considerable strain in lasting and wear. More material is used, this does
not necessarily increase the cost as it is sometimes possible to make use of inferior
parts of skin under an appliqué’.

8) Saddles & Bars-

 The vamp may have a saddle or bar across it from joint to joint.

This may serve two purposes:

 To reinforce the shoe especially at the throat where it bears the continued
strain of flexing

 To cover a seam. This could be the vamp/ quarter seam.

Saddle

9) Back Strap-

The heel seam is subjected to considerable strain both in lasting and wear. It is
common to reinforce it with counter or with a back strap.
II) Bottom Parts- Bottom parts mainly consist of Sole, Insole, Shank, Welt, Toe Puff,
Heel., bottom fillings

1) Sole-The term sole derives from 'solea' a Latin word meaning soil or ground.

a) Outsole-

This is the outer most sole of the shoe, which is directly exposed to abrasion and
wear. Traditionally made from a variety of materials, the outsole is constructed in
different thickness and degrees of flexibility. Ideal soling materials must be
waterproof, durable and possess a coefficient of friction high enough to prevent
slipping.

Leather has poor gripping capabilities and synthetic

polymers are much preferred. There are also an
infinite variety of surface designs. Extra grip
properties can be incorporated in the form of a
distinctive sole pattern with well-defined ridges.
Alternatively they can be moulded with cavities to
reduce the weight of the sole.
b) Insole (inner sole)-

A layer of material shaped to the bottom of the last and sandwiched between the
outsole (and midsole) and the sole of the foot inside the shoe. The insole covers the
join between the upper and the sole in most methods of construction and provides
attachment for the upper, toe box, linings and welting. Athletic shoe wear will often
have a sock-liner, a piece of material placed over the top of the insole board (glued
in position or removable.

Types of Insole:

i) Continental- made all in one piece

ii) Blended Insole- made from two pieces

iii) Half Insole- backer board with steel shank

iv) Skelton Insole- having backing for inserting

straps specially in ladies footwear

v) Ribbed Insole- for welted work

c) Mid-sole-

A mid-sole can be found on some shoes, and is a layer between the in-sole and out-
sole. Some shoes may not have a mid sole at all. It is made of a variety of materials
to give the shoe various characteristics of cushioning, support, and flexibility. They
are shock absorber. 90% of technologies happen in midsole. A good midsole should
be light, have excellent shock absorption properties and also have the ability to
regain its shape after every foot strike.
2) Heel-

The heel is the raised component under the rear of the shoe. Heels consist of a variety of
shapes, heights, and materials and are made of a series of raised platforms or a hollowed
section.

The part of the heel next to sole

is usually shaped to fit the heel;
this is called the heel seat or heel
base. The heel breast describes
front face of the heel. The ground
contact section is called the top
piece. Heels raise the rear of the
shoe above the ground. A shoe
without a heel or midsole wedge
may be completely flat.

Shoe heel is used to improve the

balance of the shoe, increase the
height of the wearer, and alter
posture or other decorative
purposes.
 3) Shank-

The shank of the shoe connects the heel to the forefoot, keeping the shoe (and foot)
from collapsing while walking. A piece of metal inserted between the sole and the
insole lying against the arch of the foot. Shanks were originally made of steel.
Contemporary shanks are more commonly made up of less heat conductive but equally
rigid options such as fiberglass and Kevlar.

The shankpiece or shank spring can be made from wood, metal, fiber glass or plastic
and consists of a piece approximately 10cm long and 1.5 cm wide. The shankpiece
reinforces the waist of the shoe and prevents it from collapsing or distorting in wear.
The contour of the shank is determined by heel height. Shoes with low heels or wedged
soles do not require a shank.

To determine if a shoe has a shank, turn the shoe sole side up and try to bend it in the
middle. If it has a shank, the shoe won’t collapse in the middle when you bend it. If the
shoe bends at the forefoot, that is good. The shank doesn’t extend that far. Look for
whether the shoe bends right in the middle.

4)

Welt-
 The strip of material which joins the
upper to the sole is called as welt. A welt
is a strip of leather, rubber, or plastic that
is stitched to the upper and insole of a
shoe, as an attach-point for the sole.
Most shoes will be bonded by Goodyear-
welted construction.

Some shoes use an imitation welt

stitched around the top flat edge of the
sole for decorative purposes, but it is not
a functional part of the shoe.

5) Toe-Puff-

A reinforcing inside the upper which gives the toe its shape and
support. Similar in function to a toe cap. A stiffening which is inserted
between the upper and lining at the toe of the shoe.

6) Socks Lining-
 A piece of material shaped to cover the whole or part of the insole. It is inserted into the
completed shoe and usually bears the marker’s name and the shoe brand name.

7) Shoelaces- which are also called shoestrings (US English) or bootlaces (UK English), are a
system commonly used to secure shoes, boots and other footwear. They typically
consist of a pair of strings or cords, one for each shoe, finished off at both ends with stiff
sections, known as aglets. Each shoelace typically passes through a series of holes,
eyelets, loops or hooks on either side of the shoe.

8) Eyelet-
 Tubular metal or plastic reinforcement inserted into lace holes. Loosening the lacing
allows the shoe to open wide enough for the foot to be inserted or removed. Tightening
the lacing and tying off the ends secures the foot within the shoe. This is the smooth
circular hole through which laces are thread through. Eyelets can be made of metal or
plastic, and are used to cover the edges of holes made in shoes or clothing.

Seat: Where the heel of the fit sits in the shoe. It normally matches the shape of the heal for
comfort and support.

Waist: The arch and in-step of the foot.

Ball: The padded area of the foot between the big toe and the arch of the foot.

An adhesive is any substance that, when applied to the surfaces of materials, binds the
surfaces together and resists separation. The term "adhesive" may be used interchangeably
with glue, cement, or paste.

The buckle or clasp is a device used for fastening two loose ends, with one end attached to
it and the other held by a catch in a secure but adjustable manner

ACCESSORIES

Divided into 2 categories:

A) Use in shoes to enhance the appearance.

B) Provide comfort and/or hygiene

A) Various accessories to enhance appearance are:

 1) Bows & Trims- made in material similar to that of shoe or in a contrasting material.
These are applied by means of a clip or staple.

2) Buckles- Non functional buckles with a piece of similar material to that of the shoe or
a contrasting material

3) Buttons & sequins – these have to be stitched to a piece of material and then
applied to the shoes.

B) Comfort and/or
Hygiene-
1) Shoe Horn- to aid the insertion of the foot into the shoe.

1) Heel grips- to prevent the shoe from slipping while walking. This will prevent blisters
from forming.

2) Insole Lining- these types of foam socks can also be

obtained in an impregnated state to prevent foot
odour. Also available in special rubber formulation
for joggers, to absorb shock

3) Shoe stretchers- these may give a little extra width or length to shoe with very soft
material in vamp area but are mainly used to
stretch the material over a corn or bunion area
to give relief.

Professional-Style Shoe Stretchers end the agony

of pinched feet. It’s a Wooden devices with
adjustable handles widen, lengthen and reshape
shoes so they "custom-fit" your feet. Each pair
includes 4 spot inserts to stretch tight or painful
areas caused by blisters, corns etc.
5) Shoe tree- used to keep the shape in shoe when not in
use. Particularly good when shoes get wet and are left
to dry out.

A good range of accessories can provide good link sales to retailers and provide customer
with satisfaction. Today items such as laces and trims have a certain amount of fashion
appeal and can be used creatively in sales promotion.