Introduction

Seam puckering can be caused by many factors. These can contribute individually or in combination. The most
significant of these factors are:
 The fabric density, weight and elongation properties
 The seam type
 Needles
 Machine condition
 Machine settings
 The stitch type
 The operator
 The sewing thread
Before a solution can be developed to resolve a seam puckering problem it is important to understand the
cause.

Seam puckering has three basic causes:

1. Thread tension and elastic recovery of the sewing threads
2. Structural jamming sometimes referred to as inherent pucker
3. Feed puckering caused by movement of the fabric plies during sewing.

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Assessing the causes of seam puckering

The causes of a seam puckering problem can be determined by using this simple assessment method. 
 1. Using a measured length of seam, individually and carefully cut each stitch on both sides of the
fabric. If the seam puckering disappears then the cause of the seam puckering was elastic recovery of the
sewing thread. 
 If the seam puckering remains, then carefully remove the cut pieces of sewing thread from the
fabric. 
 2. If the seam puckering disappears then the cause of the problem was structural jamming
 3. If the seam puckering disappears and the lengths of the pieces of fabric are different,
then feeding was responsible for at least some of the seam puckering

There is no point offering a finer size of sewing thread if the cause of the seam puckering is related to thread
tension and elastic recovery. 
Similarly, adjusting the sewing thread tension will not normally resolve a seam puckering problem which is
caused by structural jamming.
Structural jamming
Structural jamming is related to the physical properties of the fabrics being sewn. Fabrics which are densely
woven and made of very fine yarns with low elongation properties are more prone to structural jamming.
These types of fabrics tend to have a high resistance to needle penetration.

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When the needle carrying the sewing thread enters the fabric, the yarns do not readily open or extend to
accommodate it or the sewing thread it is carrying. The result is that the fabric yarns instead of moving and
extending tend to buckle and shorten. This shortening of the yarn is called structural jamming.

Elongation properties
Just as fabrics with low elongation properties create seam puckering problems, so too do fabrics with very high
elongation properties but for a very different reason.
Fabrics with very long elongation tend to easily spread or stretch under the presser foot during sewing. It is
important to use sewing methods and equipment that can compensate for this high elongation in the fabrics.
This issue will be covered.