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Sulfur Dyes
What Are Sulfur Dyes?
Sulfur dyes in their original form are insoluble in water. In
order to be used as a dye, they must first be reduced by a mild
reducing agent, such as sodium sulfide, to a water-soluble
compound. That water-soluble compound is readily ab-
sorbed by the fiber. Once absorbed, the compounds are then
oxidized, converting them back to an insoluble form, and
“dyeing” the fiber in the process. Hydrogen peroxide, sodium
perborate, or sodium bromate are used as oxidizers.
Sulfur dyes are used to dye cellulosic fibers, including
cotton, ramie, linen, and rayon. According to a representa-
tive of Cotton Inc., approximately 25 percent of all dyed
cotton is dyed with sulfur dyes. They were first used to dye
corduroy and denim and as a base for indigo, but now their
use has spread to all forms of apparel.
As a class, sulfur dyes are very fast, although individually
they vary somewhat. Sulfur blacks are the least likely to fade This fabric loss is due to sulfur dye used in the garment.
from the effects of light, and the oranges and yellows are the Damage will normally occur first in wear areas.
most likely to fade.
Sulfur dyes come in a variety of colors. Some are relatively IFI’s Textile Testing Laboratory did a study to see if com-
bright, but most yield dull shades. The colors which most mercial laundering, which includes an acid sour, would have
commonly cause problems are black and other deep shades. a detrimental effect on sulfur dyed jeans.

Problems With Sulfur Dyes
The problem with sulfur dyes is their tendency to liberate
sulfur or sulfur containing molecules during storage of the
fabric. This sulfur combines with moisture from the air to
form sulfurous or sulfuric acid which can attack the cellulose
and tender the garment. Damaged items exhibit a loss of fiber
strength. In patterned fabrics this damage usually shows up
in a single color. Weak areas will wash out or tear easily. The
damage shows up first in stress areas such as seams, elbows,
cuffs, and other creased areas.
This tendering is the result of a gradual development of
sulfuric or sulfonic acids by oxidation of loosely bound sulfur,
labile sulfur, in the dye. Labile sulfur readily oxidizes to sulfuric
acid, which in turn degrades the fibers. Several conditions, such
as the presence of metals or the use of cationic softeners, are
known to accelerate the oxidation process. Oxidation can
occur in storage if the proper conditions of heat and moisture
exist. The reaction can also be accelerated if the fabric is left in
an acidic condition. Tests have shown that even fully fixed
“bound” sulfur can result in tendering if the pH is acidic.
Because of this, manufacturers treat sulfur dyed fabric so that it
is slightly alkaline, pH 8 to 10.
IFI Study
Sulfur dyed jeans were laundered in wash formulas with
and without sour. The results showed virtually no difference
in tensile strength between the two groups. However, after
ageing the samples, according to AATCC 26-Ageing of
Sulfur Dyed Textiles, there was a significant difference. The
jeans which were laundered with sour showed an 86 percent
tensile strength loss. No loss in tensile strength was observed
in the samples which were laundered without sour after the
ageing test.
IFI’s test results closely correlate with those of a textile
manufacturer doing analysis of their sulfur dyed fabric. Their
laboratory experienced a loss of 84 percent on black denim
which was acid soured. The same fabric in the alkaline state
showed no tensile strength loss.
Conclusion
Testing results indicate that acid souring will act as a
catalyst in the reaction of labile sulfur to sulfuric acid.
Unfortunately, there is no way for the launderer to identify
which items are sulfur dyed and which contain labile sulfur.
Should it become common practice when laundering black

©1991 IFI 7
or deep colored cotton items to eliminate the sour bath?
Souring not only neutralizes any residual alkalinity which, if
left in the fabric, could yellow during pressing; but it also
prevents sticking during pressing. As a business person, it is
your job to assess the risk and make the final decision.
The susceptibility of sulfur dyes to degradation during
storage also exists. This damage is aggravated by abrasion
during wear. Thus, when this garment reaches the cleaner,
in many instances the weakened fiber which was present
when the article was bought in for cleaning will be removed
in the cleaning process. This particular problem the cleaner
has no control over.
The problems with sulfur dyes are inherent in the dyes
themselves. Anything which occurs during use or cleaning
only aggravates the problem; it does not create it.

This bulletin was written by Mary Scalco, Supervisor, IFI Textile Testing Laboratory.
Printed in the United States. All rights rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced in any form or by electronic or mechanical means including information storage and retrieval systems without per-
mission from the publisher.

8 IFI Fabricare News/June 1991