Port City International University

Assignment
Study on basic of knitted fabric structure.

Course title
Fabric Manufacturing Engineering - II

Course code
TEX - 313

Submitted to Submitted by
Mrs. Suraiya Sultana Borhan Uddin Tanjil
Senior Lecturer BTE - 01906410
Textile Department BTE - 19 Evening

Submission date
03-04-2021
 Study on basic of knitted fabric structure.

Introduction:
Knitted fabric is a textile product that results from knitting, the process of inter-looping of yarns or
inter-meshing of loops. It is more flexible than woven fabric and one set of yarn here we use, but
for woven fabric we use two set of yarn. And can be more readily constructed into smaller pieces,
making it ideal for socks and hats.

Types of knitted fabric:

There are two basic varieties of knit fabric: weft-knit and warp-knit fabric. This two types are
depending on how the loops are made of knitted fabric.

Weft knit fabric: When the knitted fabric loops produce in a horizontal way along the widths of
the fabric this known as weft knit fabric. The intermeshing of loops can take place both in a circular
or flat form on a course-wise basis. The fabric formed is very elastic, comfortable and warm to
wear. Properties can be varied depending on the types of yarn used.

Warp knit fabric: When the knitted fabric loops produce in a vertical way along the length of the
fabric this known as warp knit fabric. Thus, there will be a needle for each yarn. It shows less

elasticity than weft knitting. Warp knit fabric becomes favorable over weft knit fabric in properties,
like soft, drapey, higher density, and warm to wear.

Fabric structure:
Here we can notice some terms which are profoundly related to the knitted fabric structure. or We
cannot deny some terms when we talk about basic structure of knitted fabric. those terms are
mentioned below.

WALE: A Wale is a column of loops in a knitted fabric which successively produced by the
needle. The number of wales depend on the number of needles. Wales determine the length of
fabric.

Course: A course is a row of loops which produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting
cycle. Course determine the width of fabric.
Course Length: Course Length is the straight length of a course. Denoted as (C.L).

Stitch: Stitch is the smallest dimensionally stable unit of all knitted fabric.

It is composed of:
 Head(H)
 Two side legs or limbs(L) or arms
 Feet(F) or tail.

 Head (Top arc): The upper curved portion of the knitted loop is called top arc or head.

 Legs or side limbs: The side parts of the knitted loop that connect the top arc to the bottom
half-arcs is known as legs.

 Feet or tail: The lower curved portion that constitutes in a weft knitted loop, half of the
connection to the adjacent loop in the same course.
Stitch Length or Loop Length: Stitch length is the length of a knitted stitch. It is some time called
loop length. Denoted as (S.L). Standard S.L is (2-4 mm).

Stitch Density: Stitch density is the total number of needle loop in a given area such as a square
inch. Stitch Density = Wales per inch (WPI) X Courses per inch (CPI).

Knitted Loop: A kink of yarn that is intermeshed at its base i.e. when intermeshed two kink of
yarn is called knitted loop.

Types of knitted Loop:

The knit can be classified based on cam arrangement like as-
1. Knit Loop.
2. Miss Loop.
3. Tuck Loop.

1. Knit Loop: When a needle receives a new loop and pass it through the old loop which held
from the previous knitting cycle then it is known as knit loop.

2. Miss Loop: When the needle holds the old loop and does not receive new yarn then it is a
miss loop. It connects two loops of the same course that are not in adjacent wales.

3. Tuck Loop: A tuck stitch is formed when a needle already holding a loop, receives a further
new loop. This second loop is tucked in behind the held stitch.
Knitted stitch: The knitted stitch is the basic unit of intermeshing. It usually consists of three or
more intermeshed needle loops. The center loop has been drawn through the head of the lower
previously-formed loop and is, in turn, intermeshed through its head by the loop above it.

Needle loop: Needle loop is the upper part of the loop produced by the needle drawing the yarn.
Needle loop = Top arc + Two legs.
Sinker loop: The lower part of the knitted loop is technically referred as sinker loop. It is the
connection of two legs of neighboring stitches in the same course. Bottom arc also called sinker loop.

Open loop: When a loop does not show a cross form in its bottom part then it is an open loop
Closed loop: When a loop does show a cross form in its bottom part then it is a closed loop.

Face loop: During loop formation, when the new loop passes through the old loop from back to
face/ front side is called face loop.

Back/ Reverse loop: It is the new loop passes from the face side to the back side of the old loop,
it is called as back or reverse loop.
Technical face: The side of the fabric which contains all face loops or weft knit loops is known
as technical face.

Technical back: The side of the fabric which contains all back loops or purl loops is known as
technical back.

Technical face Technical back

Conclusion:
Knitted textiles are created by a single thread or yarn, assisted by needles, to create interlocking
loops, instead of the multiple warp yarns used in woven fabrics. The easiest way to tell the
difference between woven and knitted fabrics is knits create loops, where woven fabric involves
the interlacing of two or more yarns to create fabric. Knitted fabrics are preferred in clothing due
to their stretchiness and temperature control they provide. Knitted fabrics can also be a little tricky.
If you cut a knitted textile, the fabric can unravel because it’s interloping single yarn or thread.
Knitted fabric must be glued on the cut edge to prevent it.
Reference:
1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knitted_fabric
2. https://textilestudycenter.com/knitting-terms-and-
definition/#:~:text=Course%20%3A,in%20the%20same%20knitting%20cycle.
3. https://www.slideshare.net/ormee11/basic-informartion-of-
knitting?from_action=save
4. https://revolutionfabrics.com/blogs/gotcha-covered/when-to-choose-a-woven-fabric-
over-a-knit-fabric
5. http://jamil-idea.blogspot.com/2013/02/general-terms-and-principles-of.html