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App 35399
App 35399
App 35399
M. Montazer, S. Hashemikia
Department of Textile Engineering, Center of Excellence in Textile, Amirkabir University of Technology
(Tehran Polytechnic), Tehran, Iran
ABSTRACT: Application of softeners on fabrics can usually ery angle, tensile strength, and water contact angle were
increase the fabric pilling tendency and it is difficult to obtain examined and reported. Application of the polyurethane resin
a soft handle fabric without pilling during wearing. This along with citric acid reduced the fabric pilling. However,
research was conducted to use various chemicals to reduce co-application of resin, CA, and softener improved the fabric
pilling with reasonable softness on the cotton/polyester knit- crease recovery angle, bending length, and water droplet
ted fabric. Diverse composites of the water-based polyur- adsorption time. The preferred formulation was 20 g L1 CA,
ethane resin (PU), citric acid (CA) as a crosslinking agent and 25 g L1PU resin, and 20 g L1 silicone softener. V
C 2011 Wiley
silicone-based softener were selected and applied on the fabric Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 124: 4141–4148, 2012
through conventional pad-dry-cure method. The characteris-
tics of the treated fabrics including pilling rate, pilling density, Key words: polyurethane; cross-linking; silicone softener;
water droplet adsorption time, bending length, crease recov- pilling; softness
Scheme 1 (a) Water dispersible polyester polyurethane resin, (b) binding of polyurethane resin to citric acid, and (c)
binding of polyurethane resin to cellulose by means of citric acid.
Control – – – –
1 10 – – – Add-on %
2 20 – – –
3 30 – – – Increasing the concentration of the cross-linking
4 40 – – – agent (CA) in the pad bath resulted in intensifying
5 50 – – – add-on percentages. Also, increasing of the polyur-
6 10 6 – – ethane resin content in the pad bath had a consider-
7 20 12 – –
8 30 18 – –
able influence on the add-on percentage. This means
9 40 24 – – that increasing of both polyurethane resin concentra-
10 50 30 – – tion and CA in the finishing bath helps to build up
11 – – 25 – higher resin and CA on the fabric surface.
12 – – 50 –
13 – – 75 –
14 – – 100 – Bending length
15 20 – 25 –
16 10 – 25 20 Bending length is one of the determining factors in
17 10 – 50 20 assessing the fabric handle. A decrease in the bend-
18 10 – 75 20
19 10 – 100 20
ing length leads to improve the fabric drape and
20 20 – 25 20 produces a desirable fabric handle. The results in
21 20 – 50 20 Table II indicate that the bending length of the fab-
22 20 – 75 20 rics treated with polyurethane resin (without soft-
23 20 – 100 20 ener) slightly changed and made the harsh handle.
In order to improve the handle of the treated fabric,
Shirley Stiffness tester was employed to examine the a silicone-based softener was employed. It is well
bending length according to ASTM D 1388-96. The known that silicone softeners provide very high soft-
Shirley crease recovery angle, SEM XL30 (Germany) ness, special unique hand, high lubricity, and good
from Philips, pad mangle from Konrad Peter A.G sew ability, elastic resilience, crease recovery, abra-
Liestal, Instron (England) and Oven (Germany) from sion resistance, and tear strength. Softeners formed
Binder were also used. Contact angle was also meas- cross-linked films.8 Using softener in the treatment
ured by Kruss K100-SF tensiometer (Germany). bath has significant influence on the bending length
of the treated samples. This is because of the low
molecular rotational energy of silicone-based soften-
Methods ers.8,18 It is well known that use of resins and CA on
The fabric samples were first scoured with 1 g L1 cotton fabric leads to fabric stiffening. Adding sili-
Ultravon GPN at 80 C for 30 min, rinsed with cold cone-based softener to the bath containing polyur-
water, and dried at 100 C for 10 min. Different concen- ethane resin and CA prevented the hardening effects
trations of polyurethane resin, citric acid, and softener of them on the fabric. The chemical structure of the
were prepared in water as indicated in Table I. The silicone-based softener with siloxane backbone is
samples were then treated with the various aqueous shown in Scheme 2.
solutions and padded with 80% wet-pick-up [eq. (1)],
dried at 100 C followed by curing at 150 C for 4 min.
Crease resistance
W2 W1 It was expected that adding cross-linking agent (CA)
Wet pick up% ¼ 100 (1)
W1 to the finishing bath helps to improve the fabric
crease recovery angle. However, the results of fabric
in which W1 and W2 are the weight of fabric before crease recovery angle measurements indicated that
treatment and after padding, respectively. Add-on % the presence of citric acid (CA) with or without SHP
was determined according to the eq. (2). has no significant influence on the fabric crease
recovery angle. This can be attributed to the loose
W3 W1 construction of the knitted fabric and the low cotton
Add on% ¼ 100 (2)
W3 content of the fabric. However, the fabric crease re-
covery angle became higher by adding polyurethane
in which W3 is the weight of fabric after treatment resin to the fabric. Further, the influence of the sili-
(after curing). cone softener on the fabric creases recovery angle
TABLE II
Characteristics of the Samples
Water droplet
Bending Crease recovery absorption Pill density
length (cm) angle ( ) time (sec) (pill/cm2)
Sample no. Add on (%) Course Wale Course þ wale Mean SD Pilling rate Mean SD
was not significant too. In general, using three com- fabric surface decreased, which caused a small
pounds including polyurethane resin, CA, and sili- increase in the water droplet absorption time. The
cone-based softeners on the fabric helps to increase increase of water droplet adsorption time in samples
the fabric crease recovery angle and prevent the fab- 11 to 14 can be related to the high polyurethane
ric from creasing. resin content. The water droplet adsorption time of
sample 15 increased due to the considerable reaction
between polyurethane resin, fiber, and acid (Scheme
Water droplet adsorption time 1), leading to lower accessibility of water to hydro-
The water droplet can be adsorbed into the philic groups. It can be seen in Table II that the
untreated and CA-treated fabrics very quickly and water droplet adsorption time increased in the fabric
the time of droplet adsorption on these fabrics was samples treated by higher amount of polyurethane
close to zero second. The treatment of the fabric resin along with certain amount of citric acid. It is
with the polyurethane resin changed the water well known that the hydrophilicity of the fabric is
adsorption properties of the fabrics. The resin covers related to the existence of hydrophilic groups, micro-
the fabric surfaces and blocks the hydrophilic pores and free surface energy.8 Increasing the pres-
groups and covers some of the voids between fibers ence of the hydrophilic groups and micropores can
and yarns, creating a polyurethane film on the fabric help to improve the water absorption and wicking.
surface. Accordingly, the accessibility of water to the Also, increasing of resin content with the softener
led to an increase in the water droplet absorption
TABLE III
Tensile Strength, Strain and Water Contact Angle of the
Sample 2 and 20 and Control TABLE IV
Bending Rigidity of Sample 15, 20 and Control
Maximum
load (N) Strain (%) Bending rigidity (mg cm)
Water contact
Sample no. Mean SD Mean SD angle ( ) Sample no. Course Wale
Figure 1 SEM images of control sample (a) cotton (2000), (b) polyester (2000), (c) sample 20 before washing (2000),
and (d) sample 20 after 10 washing cycles (2000).
citric acid may react with a polyurethane resin by the fibers and pill formation.15 Because the softeners fre-
ways of reacting with free OH, urethane bonding (if quently increase the flexibility of the fibers, they result
the reaction condition is favorable), or physically in an increase in longevity of the pills on the fabric
bond with the polyurethane chain. Thus, the polyur- surface. However, in these experiments, the presence
ethane resin not only may coat the fabric surface and of the resin and citric acid reduced this effect. It can be
bind the fibers together but also may react with citric concluded that the resin concentrations used in sam-
acid [Scheme 1(b)] and also may attached to the cellu- ples 20, 22, and 23 were enough to create a good
lose through CA cross-linking [Scheme 1(c)].22 This adhesion between the fibers and hold hairs in fabric
causes grafting and crosslinking of polyurethane, CA, construction together, preventing pill formation as a
and cellulosic chains and binding the fibers together, consequence of friction with other surfaces. The above
decreasing fabric pill density (Scheme 1). results revealed that the sample 20 was the best sam-
The pilling rate was improved for the samples ple with regard to the softness and antipilling. In
treated with the resin alone; however, this was not order to evaluate the washing fastness of the treated
enough for clothing and still some pills can appear on sample, sample 20 was washed 10 cycles at 60 C for
the fabric surface. The results of the samples treated 20 min, and then pilling test was carried out on the
with blend of resin, softener, and CA indicated that washed sample. The pill density of sample 20 after 10
increasing CA concentrations leads to reduce pill den- washing cycles was 3 with pilling rate of 4. This
sity. By comparing the samples treated with and with- showed the reasonable fastness for antipilling per-
out softener, it can be realized that the presence of the formance of the treated sample. Further examinations
softener caused an increase in the fabric pilling rate. such as SEM micrographs and EDX analysis have
Considering the fact that formation of the pill occurs been also carried out on this sample.
in several steps, the softener has influence in two
Tensile strength and strain
steps. First, the silicone softener can act as a resin and
react with cellulose and citric acid [Scheme 2(a-c)] to The fabric tensile strength was measured in the wale
bind the fibers in the fabric prevented the outgoing of direction for the selected fabric samples. The results
the fibers from the fabric surface. Second, it helps to for the samples 2, 20, and control are indicated in
reduce the friction between the fibers and other surfa- Table III. The higher tensile strength value belonged
ces consequently preventing the entanglements of the to the untreated sample. The application of the resin
sample 20 (before and after 10 washing cycles). The per- 5. Gintis, D.; Mead, E.; Tex Res J 1959, 29, 578.
centage of Si with respect to Au is evaluated. The 6. Sivakumar, V. R.; Pillay, K. P. R.; Ind J Tex Res 1981, 6, 22.
7. Tomasino, C. Chemistry and Technology of Fabric Preparation
results are shown in Figure 2 and Table V. No Si was
and Finishing, Department of Textile Engineering, Chemistry
recorded for the control sample [Fig. 2(a)]. The presence and Science College of Textiles, North Carolina State University,
of Si on the silicone treated samples was confirmed and 1992; pp. 212–213.
also the presence of Si on the sample 20 even after 10 8. Schindler, W. D.; Hauser, P. J.; Chemical finishing of textiles.
washing cycles was approved [Fig. 2(b,c)]. Woodhead Publishing Ltd./Textile Institute Woodhead Pub-
lishing Ltd., Cambridge CB1 6AH, England, 2004.
9. Gomes, I.; Sarkar, P. K.; Rahman, S. R.; Rahim, M.; Gomes, D.;
CONCLUSION Bangladesh J Microbiol 2007, 4, 109.
10. Ibrahim, N. A.; Abo-Shosha, M. H.; Elnagdy, E. I.; Gaffar, M.
In this research, a simple method for producing cot- A.; J Appl Polym Sci 2002, 84, 2243.
ton/polyester knitted fabric with a durable soft and 11. Saravanan, D.; Vasanthi, N. S.; Ramachandran, T.A review on
smooth surface was introduced. An optimized com- influential behaviour of biopolishing on dyeability and certain
bination of a water-based polyurethane resin, a car- physico-mechanical properties of cotton fabrics. Carbohydr
Polym 2009, 76, 1.
boxylic acid cross-linker along with a silicone based
12. Jang, K. O.; Yeh, K.;Effects of silicone softeners and silane cou-
softener was introduced. The optimized formulation pling agents on the performance properties of cotton fabrics,
obtained was 25 g L1 E-POL, 20g L1 citric acid, Tex Res J 1993, 63, 557.
and 20 g L1 silicone softener (Adrasil AF). This 13. Hashem, M.; Ibrahim, N. A.; El-Shafei, A.; Refaie, R.; Hauser,
leads to producing a fabric with acceptable low pil- P.; Carbohydr Polym 2009, 78, 690.
ling performance and desirable handle properties. 14. Tanveer, H.; Sohail, A.; Abdul, Q.; ColorTechnol 2008, 124,
375.
The obtained properties were durable to repeated
15. Lee, E. S.; Kim, S.; J Appl Polym Sci 2005, 96, 975.
washings, and the treated fabrics had a better resist- 16. Habereder, P. Melliand Int 2002, 8, 143.
ance against creasing. 17. Gulrajani, M. L. Ind J Fiber Tex Res 2006, 31, 187.
18. Montazer, M.; Sadighi, A.; J Appl Polym Sci 2006, 100,
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