Selling Rings

Ring Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
2
Popular Ring Setting Styles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Other Ring Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Engagement and Wedding Rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Other Diamond Ring Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Colored Stone Rings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Gemstone Ring Cautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

First Steps of the Sales Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

Preparing to Sell. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Sales Step 1—Approach the Customer . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Consider the Situation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
The Merchandise Approach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
The Friendship Approach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
I’m Just Looking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Sales Step 2—Exchange Information . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
A Sample Information Exchange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63

Store Security . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Burglary, Theft, and Robbery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Shoplifting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Scams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68

Key Concepts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

Key Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70

41
 Welcome to Jewelry Essentials Assignment 2! With the knowledge you
gain from this assignment, you’ll be able to:
• Recognize a wide variety of diamond and colored stone ring setting
styles.
• Explain the care requirements for diamonds and colored stones set in
rings.
• Approach the customer and exchange information to begin the selling
process.
• Handle basic retail store security procedures.

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Mark Davis/Philip Zahm Designs
Rings are the most popular jewelry items. They can be found in a variety of styles at all market
levels.

Selling Rings
The young woman walked into the store and asked Barry about a three-stone
amethyst ring she’d seen in one of his store’s window displays.
“That’s a very pretty ring, isn’t it?” Barry responded. “It’s a good value too.
Would you like to take a closer look?”
“Yes, I would,” the woman replied. “It looks like a ring my husband gave me
when we were first married. I lost it down a drain.”
“Oh, I’m sorry to hear that,” Barry said. “Sentimental value is hard to replace,
but we can try.”
He unlocked the case and took the ring box out. He introduced himself as he
placed the ring on the counter pad.
“I’m Barry Williams,” he said.
“My name is Jennifer,” she replied.
“Was your ring also set with amethysts, Jennifer?” Barry continued.
“Yes,” she replied, “but their color wasn’t as bright as these.”

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JEWELRY ESSENTIALS 2
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“All three stones are the finest-color amethysts available,” he said. “As you’ve
noticed, their color is particularly rich and velvety.”
“They’re lovely,” she said.
As he handed her the ring, Barry explained that the amethysts were all oval
cuts and the setting was 18-karat gold. Jennifer slid the ring onto her right-
hand ring finger, then held it up to admire it.
“Oh, it’s so beautiful,” Jennifer said. “What are the weights of the stones?”
“The center stone is nearly three carats and the outer ones are about one carat
each,” Barry replied.
“It’s a lovely ring,” she said softly. Then she continued, “And I’d love to replace
that long-lost ring and surprise my husband. Are the settings secure?”
“You don’t have to worry about that. As you can see, each stone is held in
place by six prongs,” Barry said. “Also, we guarantee our jewelry under normal
wear, and we have an in-store repair service.”
“That’s good to know,” Jennifer said. She didn’t have to think about it for very
long. She smiled and said, “I’ll take it.”
Barry rang up the sale and entered Jennifer’s information in the store’s
customer registry. He thanked her and gave her his business card. He asked
if she’d like him to contact her with store specials and cleaning reminders.
Jennifer said she would like that, then left the store wearing her lovely new
ring.

Ring Styles
• What are the two main parts of a ring?
• What’s the most popular gemstone for engagement, wedding, and
anniversary rings?
• What are some best-selling ring styles?
As you learned in Assignment 1, setting style refers to the way a gem is secured
in its mounting. Setting styles can range from a simple prong setting to an
elaborate custom setting created to accommodate a special gemstone. In
addition to providing a beautiful background for a gem, the main purpose of
a setting is to hold that gem securely.

Valerie Power/GIA Valerie Power/GIA

In a well-made mounting, the head holds all This semi-mount features a cluster of blue
the gems securely in place. diamonds. It would be the perfect
background for an emerald-cut diamond,
blue sapphire, or aquamarine.

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Parts of a ring

Head

Shank

Peter Johnston/GIA

A setting’s primary purpose is to

hold a gem securely.

Shank—The part of a ring that fits

around the finger.
Head—The part of a mounting into
which the main gems are set.
Semi-mount—A setting with side
gems and space for a center stone
of the customer’s choosing.
Findings—Small components used
to make or repair jewelry.
Eric Welch/GIA
Semi-mounts offer great flexibility for jewelers and clients alike. They let the client choose both
mounting and main gem to create a unique piece.

No matter what the style, every ring has two main parts. The part that fits
around the finger is called the shank, and the part that holds the main gem or
gems is called the head.

Often, a jewelry retailer keeps a selection of semi-mounts, which are settings

with side gems in place but no center stone. A semi-mount adds versatility by
letting the customer choose a loose stone for placement in the central position.

Semi-mounts belong to a category of small jewelry pieces called findings.

Findings might be partially gem-set, but they’re often plain jewelry-metal
components that can be used for making or repairing all types of jewelry.
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JEWELRY ESSENTIALS 2
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Eric Welch/GIA
A white metal bezel secures this beautiful
sapphire cabochon in its mounting.

Valerie Power/GIA Eric Welch/GIA

Four sturdy prongs hold the round brilliant-cut Tiny metal beads grip the girdle of this round
diamond in place while smaller channel-set brilliant-cut diamond. It’s one of two accent
diamonds grace the ring’s sides. stones for a bold green tsavorite garnet.

Hoover & Strong

This stack of multicolored rings boasts tiny,
precisely spaced diamonds. Each one is
smoothly flush-mounted in the metal.

Hoover and Strong

Channel-set rows of small, perfectly matched
gems lend color and sparkle to these high-
quality rings.

Eric Welch/GIA
The sides of this beautiful ring sparkle with tiny pavé-set gems. Even the prongs that hold the
deep blue aquamarine are encrusted with diamonds.

Popular Ring Setting Styles

Channel setting—Setting style with
gems held in grooves, or channels.
As you learned in Assignment 1, the prong setting is the most common ring
style. Each prong in the setting is a narrow piece of metal, and a setting usually
consists of four to six prongs per gem. In some countries like the United
Kingdom and Canada, prongs are called claws.
A channel setting features one or more grooves, or channels. The manufacturer
cuts notches in the channel walls and sets the stones in rows, edge to edge.
The most durable channel settings also have reinforcing bars along the
undersides of the channels.

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In a bead setting, gems are recessed into holes drilled in the mounting. The Bead setting—Setting style with
bench jeweler uses a tool to push pieces of the surrounding metal up to hold gems held in place by rounded
each stone in place. Next, using a tool with a small cup at the end, called a beads, usually pushed up from the
beading tool, the bench jeweler shapes the jagged metal pieces into rounded surrounding metal.
“beads.”
Pavé setting—Bead setting with
Pavé is a type of bead setting. In a pavé setting, the gemstones are placed close many small gems placed close
together, often in a honeycomb pattern. It takes considerable skill to create a together, often in a honeycomb
quality pavé setting. The setter secures the gems in a metal surface pierced pattern.
with many tiny openings. Then, as in a regular bead setting, the setter pushes
up small bits of the surrounding metal to secure the gems. A well executed Flush setting—Setting style with a
pavé setting has the appearance of a sparkling field of gems. gem set directly into the metal with
its table at the same level as the
In a flush setting, the gem is set directly into the surrounding metal, with the metal surface.
top of the gem—the table—even with the metal surface. Besides being
beautiful, the flush setting is very secure. And the gem is well protected by Bezel—A thin metal strip that
the metal that surrounds it. wraps around a gem to hold it in
place.
A bezel is a thin metal strip that wraps around a gem to hold it securely in
place. Bezel settings can hold faceted stones, but they’re traditionally used to Cabochon—A smoothly rounded
hold cabochons, which are cut with smooth, unfaceted, domed tops and flat polished gem with a domed top
or curved bottoms. and a flat or curved base.
Invisible setting—Setting style with
grooved gems set between metal
Other Ring Styles rails that hold them in place.
Invisible settings are often associated with the pioneering work of design house Illusion setting—Stone set within a
Van Cleef and Arpels. They are the most difficult settings to accomplish well. metal rim that makes the stone look
In an invisible setting, each diamond or colored stone is grooved just below bigger.
its girdle. The grooves help secure the gems between metal rails. Using this
setting process, many gems can be placed together, with no gaps between Tension setting—Setting with gem
them. The result is a smooth, rich, seamless field of gems. held in place by pressure between
opposing pieces of platinum or
In an illusion setting, the stone is set within a metal rim. The setting’s purpose
karat gold.
is to make a small stone look bigger.
A tension setting fully displays a stone by making it look like it’s suspended
in space. The stone is held in place by pressure from two opposing pieces of
platinum or karat gold. The tension setting is most often used with harder
gems because the pressure it exerts tends to damage less durable ones.

Ambar GIA & Tino Hammid Maha Tannous/GIA

Small square brilliant cuts in invisible settings
create an uninterrupted display of brilliance
across this ring's surface.
Illusion settings surround smaller gems, which
are typically diamonds. From a distance, the
diamonds in this ring appear larger.
A fancy-colored brown diamond appears
suspended in an arc of platinum in this
designer ring. Tension settings like this are
best suited to tough gems like diamond and
corundum.

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JEWELRY ESSENTIALS 2
Selling Rings

Engagement ring—Ring set with a

gem, usually a diamond, given to
signify an intention to marry.
Wedding ring—A ring, usually a
plain band, worn by someone who
is married.
Wedding set (duo)—A pair
consisting of a woman’s matched
engagement and wedding rings.
Solitaire—Jewelry piece with one
main gem, typically a diamond.
Wrap—A ring designed to dress up
a second ring, which is often a
solitaire.
Guard—A ring worn to enclose and
enhance another ring; also a bar Shutterstock
secured across a ring’s shank to
reduce its diameter and keep it
Wedding sets, or duos, come in an enticing array of styles to suit every couple’s taste.

from sliding off.

Eric Welch/GIA Valerie Power/GIA

The stones surrounding a solitaire don’t have This solitaire boasts a 1.25-ct. center diamond
to be large to create a dazzling effect. Rows between two matching 0.25-ct diamonds.
of tiny diamonds add a delicate touch to this Some trade professionals call this arrange-
mounting. ment a three-stone setting.

Engagement and Wedding Rings

Hoover & Strong
The wedding band that matches this solitaire
The tradition of wearing both an engagement ring and a wedding ring dates
back to the 1800s. The concept of matched wedding and engagement rings,
however, is a twentieth-century development. In retail sales, the matched pair
is often called a wedding set, bridal set, or duo.
The traditional engagement ring is a diamond solitaire, which consists of a
single main gem. The wedding ring is a band of gold, platinum, or other
precious metal. The metal might be plain or decorated, and it might be set

with diamonds or other gems.

is shaped to fit its contours.

The wedding ring might be designed as a wrap or a guard. The wrap supports
the ring on one side and the guard has two shanks that surround it completely.
Both are designed to enhance the beauty of the engagement ring. There’s another
type of guard that’s practical rather than decorative. It’s simply a bar that’s
secured across the shank to reduce a ring’s size and keep it from sliding off.

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 2 JEWELRY ESSENTIALS
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Royalty-Free/Corbis
Whatever the style, a wedding set symbolizes
a loving landmark in your clients’ lives.

E ngagement and wedding

rings are most often set with
diamonds.

Eric Welch/GIA
Not every solitaire setting features a round brilliant diamond. Some brides fall in love with
fancy cuts, like the pear shape in this ring.

A matched ensemble consisting of an engagement ring, a woman’s wedding Trio—Matched ensemble consisting
ring, and a man’s wedding band is sometimes called a trio. of an engagement ring, a woman’s
wedding ring, and a man’s
In Japan and Western societies, the gemstones in women’s engagement and wedding band.
wedding rings are most often diamonds. De Beers, the diamond mining and
marketing conglomerate, has successfully promoted that idea for decades.
Largely through De Beers’ powerful advertising and public relations efforts,
diamonds have come to signify milestones in people’s lives.

Not everyone accepts the diamonds-only idea for an engagement ring,

however. In 1981, Prince Charles and Princess Diana attracted international
media attention when Diana proudly wore a sapphire engagement ring. The
colored stone engagement ring honored a British royal tradition, and couples
worldwide followed the couple’s lead. Their son, Prince William, inherited
Diana’s ring upon her death and presented it to his fiancée, Kate, when they
became engaged in 2010.
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JEWELRY ESSENTIALS 2
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Hoover & Strong
This eternity ring features a continuous band
of alternating diamonds and blue sapphires.
Anniversary band—Ring with a
row of gems of the same size and
cut.
Eternity ring—Ring encircled with
a row of closely matched gems.
50
Eric Welch/GIA
Variations on the classic solitaire remain very popular. This ring features a pale pink diamond
with matching accents.
Other Diamond Ring Styles
Over the years, De Beers has developed several products to promote the use
of diamonds in jewelry. The anniversary band is a popular gift from husband
to wife on a wedding anniversary. It’s set with a continuous row of diamonds
or other precious gems, usually of the same size and cut. The gems can extend
all the way or only part way around the band.
The anniversary band is a renamed and energetically marketed version of the
ancient eternity ring. It was called that because the circle is a traditional symbol
of eternity. Today’s eternity ring features gems set all the way around it. De
Beers introduced the style’s new name in the 1970s as a way to promote the
sale of smaller diamonds to married couples.
Women have been wearing rings set with three stones for decades, if not
centuries. The gems might have been any combination of diamonds and
 2 JEWELRY ESSENTIALS
Selling Rings

M odern three-stone jewelry is

promoted to represent the
past, present, and future of a
relationship.

Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA

A row of matched round brilliant-cut This ring’s fancy yellow heart-shaped
diamonds catches the light in this classic diamond makes a stunning statement.
anniversary band.

Eric Welch/GIA Valerie Power/GIA

A right-hand ring might feature a unique and Some designers showcase the unique shapes
substantial diamond like this radiant-cut of rough diamonds in their jewelry. This ring
yellow gem. Tapered baguette diamonds on would make a unique conversation piece.
the sides make a perfect accent.

colored stones, or three of one or the other. In recent years, De Beers adopted Right-hand ring—A diamond ring
the three-stone ring as a diamond-promotion product. Its success led to three- promoted as a self-purchase and
stone pendant and earring versions. The three diamonds are the same shape, worn on a woman’s right hand to
with the largest stone usually in the center. The stones represent the past, signify independence and power.
present, and future of a relationship.
Another De Beers diamond-promotion product was the right-hand ring. It
was usually designed with the stones spread out rather than close together
as they typically are in engagement and wedding rings. Part of the original
concept was that a woman would buy a right-hand ring for herself.
Of course, women have been wearing rings on their right hands for centuries,
but De Beers and its advertising agency chose to portray the right-hand ring as
a declaration of the wearer’s independence. The advertising copy nicely expressed
the marketing concept: “Your left hand says ‘we,’ your right hand says ‘me’.”
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JEWELRY ESSENTIALS 2
Selling Rings

Cocktail ring—A flashy, oversized

ring, often set with less-expensive
gems.
Cluster ring—Ring with a group of
small stones set closely together or
a large central gem surrounded by
several smaller ones.
Ballerina ring—A ring that looks
like a ballerina’s tutu, with a
central stone encircled by rectan-
gular diamonds.

Mark Davis/Philip Zahm Designs

A fabulous rare blue tourmaline provides a suitable centerpiece for this high-quality hand-fabri-
cated mounting.

Colored Stone Rings

Philip Zahm Designs
The rich and varied hues of colored stones
provide a choice for every mood. Although
There’s an almost limitless variety of ring styles, and many feature colored
stones, often with diamond accents. The diamond three-stone ring that you
learned about earlier might have a colored stone set between a matched pair
of diamonds, or consist of three colored stones.
You might also see anniversary or eternity rings set with colored stones instead
of diamonds, or with a combination of colored stones and diamonds. They’re
ideal companions to colored stone solitaire rings.
Some rings are designed to dazzle the eye. One of those is the flashy, oversized
cocktail ring that was originally popularized in the 1940s and 1950s. To allow
for impressive gem size and affordability, cocktail rings are often set with less-
expensive gems.
The cluster ring is also impressive, with a group of small stones or a large
center stone surrounded by smaller gems. A ballerina ring takes its name and
design from a ballerina’s tutu, with rectangular diamonds encircling a larger
stone, often a colored gem.

Designers might use colored stones in contrasting colors and shapes to create
these rings have similar mountings, the gem

dramatic custom rings. For example, the bold green of tsavorite garnet or
selection gives each one a richly different
look.

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Selling Rings

Birthstone—Gem associated with

Valerie Power/GIA
Cluster rings that consist of a large central
Robert Weldon/GIA
A circle of tapered baguette diamonds
the month in which a person was
born.
Mother’s ring—Ring personalized
with children’s birthstones.
Signet ring—A flat-topped ring that
might be engraved with initials or
other unique insignia.
Bypass (crossover) ring—Ring
where the ends of the shank pass
each other rather than meeting at
the head.
Hololith—Jewelry carved entirely

from a single gemstone, often jade.

colored gem encircled by matched diamonds surrounds the lush green of an emerald in this

Saddle ring—Hololith with a

are among the most popular ring styles. classic ballerina setting.

decoratively carved top.

Robert Weldon/GIA Vianna Joias

Geometrical grooves in the cut and a Bold colors and chunky styling give these
contrasting accent stone give this blue topaz designer cocktail rings a playful feel.
ring the feel of an abstract piece of modern art.

peridot makes a striking statement when combined with a rich red tourmaline
or rhodolite garnet.
Some colored stones are designated as birthstones and set into rings or other
jewelry styles. Each month of the year is associated with one or two birthstones,
and people born during that month can choose jewelry featuring the
designated gem. Similarly, certain colored stones are associated with the signs
of the zodiac. A variation of the birthstone ring, called a mother’s ring, is set
with children’s birthstones to honor the maternal role.
Colored stones are also popular in men’s rings, where gems like jadeite and
cat’s-eye chrysoberyl provide a strong, masculine look. The signet ring is a type
of man’s ring, with a flattened top surface that might be engraved with initials
or other unique insignia.
With a bypass or crossover ring, the ends of the shank don’t meet at the head
as they do in other rings. Rather, they pass each other, leaving space in between.
The gems might be mounted on the shank ends or within the space.
A hololith is a continuous band carved from a single gemstone, often jade. A
saddle ring is a hololith with a decoratively carved top.
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JEWELRY ESSENTIALS 2
Selling Rings

Mark Davis/Philip Zahm Designs Eric Welch/GIA Eric Welch/GIA

Emerald is another beautiful stone that Although it might match sapphire’s brilliant The glory of this large amethyst is its color
requires care during wear. blue, tanzanite is a softer gem that requires and unique cut. It’s a softer gem, though, so
caution when worn as a ring stone. care during wear is important.

Robert Weldon/GIA
Sapphires are tough, durable gems. This fine
example from the famous Kashmir mines is a
gem that can truly withstand everyday wear.

Valerie Power/GIA
Cultured pearls are perennial favorites as ring stones, but many experts counsel caution
because pearls are softer than many other gems. With proper care, these lustrous beauties will
last a lifetime.

Gemstone Ring Cautions

Because of their position on wearers’ hands, gemstone rings are exposed to
more potential damage than necklaces and earrings. Gems in rings have to be
fairly hard, especially if they’re worn frequently. Durable gems like diamonds,
rubies, and sapphires are often used in engagement and wedding rings because
they can withstand being worn on the hand all the time.
You’ll also see softer gems like emeralds, pearls, opals, garnets, tourmalines,
or amethysts in rings, but they’re more vulnerable to damage, making them
Mark Davis/Philip Zahm Designs
less suitable for everyday wear. Certain stones are selected because their colors
complement outfits worn for particular occasions.
The flash of color that plays over a fine opal’s

Vibrant stones like tanzanite and peridot can be excellent choices for rings that
surface as it moves makes it highly desirable.

are worn only occasionally. They provide the spectacular effect of a large stone
It’s a softer gem, so advise your clients not to

without the expense of a comparably sized diamond. Colored stones can also
expose it to excessive wear.

take starring roles in high-priced, one-of-a-kind rings.

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 2 JEWELRY ESSENTIALS
Selling Rings

Eric Welch/GIA
You’ll meet a wide variety of customers, all in
the market for jewelry that’s just right for
them. Try to adjust your approach to suit their
demeanor.

Y our appearance should be

appropriate for your store and
clientele.

Valerie Power/GIA
As a sales associate, you project your store’s image and market position.

First Steps of the Sales Process

• What steps should you take to prepare for selling?
• Why is your first greeting essential to your later success?
• How do you obtain the information you need to sell to an individual
customer?
Just like an airline pilot doing a pre-flight check, you should do your own pre-
sales check before you meet customers on the selling floor. The check should
include a review of your appearance, attitude, and knowledge.
Your clothes, grooming, and accessories should be appropriate for your store
and clientele. For example, a jewelry sales associate at Tiffany & Company
would dress differently from a jewelry sales associate at Wal-Mart.
Your attitude is also important. You should always be positive and cheerful,
but be careful not to overwhelm your customers by being overly aggressive.
Simply try to be supportive, friendly, and upbeat.
Start by trying to mirror your customer’s demeanor. If your customer has a
light and breezy attitude, try not to be serious and sullen. If your customer is
technically inclined, you don’t want to be airy and romantic. If your customer’s
pace is slow, try not to be hyperactive.
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JEWELRY ESSENTIALS 2
Selling Rings

Valerie Power/GIA
As you go through your day, check the prices,
weights, and styles of your store’s jewelry
pieces. You’ll benefit by having this informa-
tion at your fingertips.

Valerie Power/GIA
Get to know your store’s inventory. The more you know about what you have, the higher your
chances of matching your client’s needs with the jewelry in stock.

Preparing to Sell
There are several things you should know before you can put any sales
K techniques to work. First, be familiar with your store’s basic procedures. Learn
nowledge of your store’s

how to use the cash registers and other equipment. Know how to handle credit
merchandise is essential to

and debit cards, checks and cash. Learn your store’s policies on guarantees,
sales success.

warranties, layaways, and returns. Be aware of any additional services your

store offers, like cleaning and repair, shipping, and gift wrapping.
You should also know your store’s layout as well as the location of the keys
to locked cases. Keep current on sales, specials, and promotions. Learn what
goods you have in inventory, what is available by special order, and how long
it takes for an order to come in.
You should also become familiar with prices. It’s probably impossible to
memorize the price of every item in your store, but you should at least know
price ranges for the goods you have available.
It also helps to be familiar with your competitors and what they offer. There’s
only one effective way to get this information: Visit their stores. If your
competitors are sharp, they’re checking your store too.
Many jewelry purchases are based on romance and emotion, but there’s no
substitute for good presentation and product knowledge. It’s important to be
familiar with your products and how to handle and present them, and always
follow your store’s security policies when showing jewelry. Handle the
merchandise with respect.
When customers ask questions about gems, metals, styles, or anything else,
you must be able to answer them with authority. If you don’t know your store’s
merchandise, you risk losing sales, no matter how good your selling techniques
are. Customers who don’t have confidence in your product knowledge won’t
return to your store or send their friends your way.
Once you’ve taken these preparation steps, you’re ready to begin applying
the Seven Steps of a Sale.

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Sales Step 1—Approach the Customer

What’s more natural than welcoming customers to your store and finding out
what they want to buy? Sales Steps 1 and 2—approaching the customer and
exchanging information—might seem simple, but they’re actually the most
important parts of the sales process. They set the stage for everything that
happens later. Done properly, they make the rest of the process easier and
increase your chances of making a sale.
You can’t possibly anticipate and prepare for every customer situation that
might arise. But many situations are fairly common, so it makes sense to
develop and practice ways to respond to them. You can do that by
brainstorming and role-playing with your fellow sales associates. Once you’ve
come up with approaches you think will work, try them with your customers.
Keep the methods that succeed and reject those that fail.
Also be aware that what works for another sales associate might not work for
you. Take notes and develop your own personal set of successful approaches.
You don’t want to sound as if you’re speaking from a memorized script—that Eric Welch/GIA
sounds unnatural and makes customers wary. But if you understand the princi-
ples behind what you’re trying to do, the words and actions will follow.
Rather than being interested in technical
information, many women want to spend

Research shows that women generally want to develop a professional

time developing a relationship with a store or

relationship with the retail sales associate. Men, on the other hand, generally
a particular sales associate.

want to complete the transaction as quickly as possible and move on. Since
there are more women professionals in the workforce than ever before, and
since women’s jewelry is increasingly a self-purchase, you’ll want to adjust
your sales techniques to address this important, fast-growing market.
Almost everyone has a built-in resistance to being talked into buying
something. When you approach and start talking to your customer, the first
thing you have to do is overcome this resistance. For this reason, it’s important
that your actions don’t generate a negative response from your customer.

T he approach and information

exchange are the most impor-
tant parts of the sales process.

Your goal during the approach is

to overcome your customer’s built-
in sales resistance.

Eric Welch/GIA
Many male customers are interested in specific technical features or details of a piece. If the
jewelry item meets their specifications, you might be able to complete the transaction quickly.

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E ach customer and each situa-

tion requires a different
approach.

Andy Lucas/GIA
Find out as much as you can about your customer and her needs. Ask questions that help you
determine if the jewelry is for her or a gift for a loved one. You can also get clues for possible
jewelry purchases from the way a person dresses and acts.

Consider the Situation

As you approach your customer, there are three things to consider: yourself,
your customer, and the circumstances.
No matter what the situation, you won’t succeed and be happy in your work
if you’re not being yourself. You can be flexible and adapt, you can play up
parts of your personality and downplay others, but if you’re not faithful to
your true self, chances are you’ll fail.
Each customer is different. By observing your customer and mentally noting
any outward clues, you can customize your approach and increase your
chances of making a good first impression. Your customer’s gender, physical
presence, style of dress, grooming, accessories, and demeanor should influence
your approach. Your opening lines to a teenage girl, a romantic young couple,
a single man, and a grandmotherly woman should certainly be different.
Your approach might be influenced by the market level of your store and
merchandise, how and where in the store the displays are located, what type of
merchandise your customer seems interested in, and whether or not your store
has an advertised or in-store sale or special promotion in progress. It can also
depend on the weather, the traffic, news events, or any number of other factors.
Remember that most customers will try to resist salespeople. Even when
they’ve decided to buy, they want to be sure it’s their own choice, not yours.
Think of your own reaction as a retail customer. When a salesperson
approaches before you ask for help, you probably don’t welcome him or her
with open arms. You’re probably wary. You don’t want to be persuaded to
buy more than you want or something you don’t want at all.
Since most customers probably start out on the defensive, there are two broad
types of approaches you can take: the merchandise approach and the
friendship approach.

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Robert Weldon/GIA Valerie Power/GIA Valerie Power/GIA

This fabulous tourmaline provides stunning
red hues, but it’s more affordable than a ruby
of equivalent quality. A client expecting a big
price tag might be thrilled by the prospect of
owning a piece like this.
You can point out that this ring has an
unusual mounting, and the central gem has
an interesting checkerboard cut. Both features
might intrigue a customer.
Using the merchandise approach, you might
draw a client’s eye to the smooth ruby
cabochon that gleams like an ember in this
ring. The neat baguette accent diamonds
provide a potential talking point, too.

The Merchandise Approach

Barry took the merchandise approach with Jennifer in the earlier scenario. The
choice was easy for him because she asked about the ring when she came in.
It was natural and appropriate for him to comment on the ring and ask if she
wanted to take a closer look. He empathized with her for having lost the ring
her husband had given her.
Barry sensed Jennifer knew something about gems and jewelry, so he added
facts about the amethysts’ color quality. When Jennifer asked about the stones’
weight, Barry knew he had taken the right approach. Still, he didn’t want to
get too technical, so he complimented the stones’ color using imagery that
gave the ring romance and mystery.
In the end, Jennifer bought the ring, proving Barry had judged the customer
and the circumstances well, and had been correct in taking the merchandise
approach.

The Friendship Approach

If Jennifer had not asked about a particular item, Barry might have tried the Open-ended question—A question
friendship approach. Its initial purpose is to reduce or eliminate a customer’s that requires a thoughtful, specific
resistance by establishing a person-to-person rather than a salesperson-to- answer other than “yes” or “no.”
customer relationship.
This approach starts with your opening line. Always use a friendly greeting
followed by an open-ended question. That’s a question that can’t be answered
with a simple “yes” or “no.” It encourages your customer to think about and
respond to what you’ve asked, and it usually leads to an exchange of
information. It should be a non-business question. You want to show sincere,
personal interest and relate to your customer as if you’ve found a new friend
and you’re curious to know something about her or him.
A good greeting that includes an open-ended question might be something
as simple as, “Good morning! The mall is packed today. Where did you find
a parking space?” You might comment on something you noticed about your
customer: “Hello! I see you’re driving one of those new hybrids. What made
you choose it?” Or it could be a comment that compliments the customer’s
appearance: “Hi there. Where did you get that great outfit?” The important
thing is to start the customer talking.
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Take-away—A two-part sales
technique that removes a
customer’s just-looking defense.
60
Eric Welch/GIA
If you show genuine interest in your customers’ needs and respond effectively to what they say,
you’re far more likely to match them to the jewelry piece they’re looking for.
Once you’ve engaged your customer in conversation, keep asking questions
that follow her lead. The idea is to keep her talking. If given the chance, most
people’s favorite topic is themselves. By giving your customer free rein, you
can break down her defenses and get the information you need to help her
make a purchase. Be a good listener, and always make eye contact.
After talking with your customer and establishing a connection, you can move
toward doing business. One way to make the transition is by asking, “What
brings you into our store today?”
Occasionally, your customer will know or have a very good idea about what
she wants. This makes a sale fairly easy because your customer has already
decided to buy. All you have to do is guide her to the right purchase. You
might be able to direct your customer to jewelry that’s more expensive than,
or in addition to, what she had in mind, but you’re basically helping her reach
a goal she’s already set.
I’m Just Looking
Often, customers aren’t in your store to buy or aren’t sure what they’re looking
for. In either case, they might say “I’m just looking.” Variations might be, “I’m
just browsing,” “I just want to see what you have,” “I have some time to kill,”
or “I’m waiting for my husband (wife) to finish next door.” These are a
customer’s way of saying, “Go away, don’t bother me.”
You can deal with these responses by using a technique called a take-away. Its
purpose is to remove the customer’s just-looking defense. It has two parts.
First, you give your customer permission to look. Next, you pose an open-
ended question that essentially asks how you can help her look.
The exchange might go like this:
“What brings you into our store today?”
“Oh, nothing special. I’m just looking.”
“Looking is important. You might find a treasure. What kind of treasure would
you like to find?”
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Eric Welch/GIA
It’s important to pay attention to your customers’ demeanor when they enter your store. Don’t
expect the same approach to work every time.

Or like this: Turnover—Giving another sales

“What brings you into our store today?” associate a customer you’re not
compatible with.
“I had some time to kill.”
“Well, jewelry-store browsing is surely a good way to kill time. Is there
something you’d like to find before the time runs out?”
There will always be those customers who really are just looking and do want
you to go away. If they’re determined, there’s not much you can do. You might
sense that you and a particular customer aren’t compatible. It’s inevitable that
some people, for whatever reason, won’t like you. If you sense that’s the case,
you might try a turnover.
To do this, you say something like, “OK, I hope you enjoy looking,” and walk
away. Then you ask another sales associate whose looks and manner are
completely different from yours to approach the customer and start over.
Another effective technique to try with a customer who isn’t shopping for a
specific item is to show great enthusiasm about particular pieces in your store.
You might have some new merchandise, for example, or uniquely designed
pieces, or some items that contain gems that were recently in the news. If you
don’t act as if you’re trying to sell something, your customer might share your
enthusiasm and buy.
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Valerie Power/GIA
You should try to ask the right questions and listen carefully to your customer’s answers.
The information you gain will help you respond to her needs and provide the jewelry she’ll
want to buy.

Sales Step 2—Exchange Information

Most people don’t shop in a jewelry store every day. Many customers are
unfamiliar with gems and jewelry and don’t have a clear idea of what they
want. Your job is to help them narrow their choices and choose the jewelry
that’s right for them.
To accomplish this, it helps to ask open-ended questions, listen closely to the
answers, and respond accordingly. In the process, you’ll learn what your
customer’s tastes and needs are and determine her readiness to buy. The more
you know about her, the better you’ll be able to help her choose, and the better
chance you’ll have to sell her something at a higher price or even sell her
additional merchandise as part of the sale.
The more effectively you exchange information at this stage, the less time it’ll
take you to complete the sale. Start with broad questions and narrow down to
specifics. Find out what category your customer is interested in. Does she want
a necklace? A ring? A bracelet? Perhaps a set? Then, within that category, what
metal, what gem, what cut, what jewelry design? Then, which specific item?
As you progress through the questions, try to respond to your customer’s
ideas, but also try to steer her toward the most expensive goods you sense
she’ll buy and leave open the possibility of additional sales.

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Eric Welch/GIA
As a jewelry sales associate, you must find out as much as you can about your customer’s
needs. You should also provide them with information that will help them select the jewelry
pieces that are perfect for them.

A Sample Information Exchange

After Larry, a jewelry sales associate, approaches his customer, a middle-aged
woman named Cheryl, the information exchange might go like this:
Larry: Are you shopping for yourself or someone else?
Cheryl: I’m looking for a gift for my mother.
Larry: Is it a special occasion?
Cheryl: It’s my parents’ fiftieth wedding anniversary.
Larry: That is a special occasion. Would you like gifts for both your parents?
Cheryl: No, just something nice for my mom. My father has never worn any
kind of jewelry.
Larry: Is she especially fond of a certain gemstone or metal?
Cheryl: She’s always been fascinated by opals.
Larry: I can show you some very nice opal jewelry. The fiftieth is the golden
anniversary, of course, so perhaps yellow gold would be the best metal. Do
you think your mother might like an opal necklace?
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JEWELRY ESSENTIALS 2
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W about a bracelet?
hen customers trust you and
your store, they’re more
likely to buy from you and to tell
others about their good experience.
Objection—A temporary obstacle,
raised by the customer, that delays
or even stops the sale.
Word of mouth—Spoken informa-
tion passed from person to person.
Joel Beeson/GIA
It's good policy to keep everyone locked out
of your place of business before and after
business hours--even delivery personnel. You
should also always ask for identification from
people you don't know.
64
Cheryl: Not really. The only necklaces she’s ever worn are pearl strands. What
Larry: A bracelet might not be such a good idea. Opals aren’t hard and durable
enough to be worn on the wrist. But I can show you a lovely black opal brooch.
It’s beautifully designed in yellow gold.
Cheryl: Oh, it is lovely! But its size tells me it’s beyond my budget.
Larry: Well, we do have these matching earrings. Do you think your mother
would like them?
Cheryl: They’re perfect! Although I still wonder if the price is too high.
Note that Larry started by using the word “shopping” rather than the more
intimidating word “buying.” He didn’t ask how much Cheryl wanted to
spend, which is never a good idea because it’s too limiting, and he didn’t dwell
on price. Note also that he framed his questions according to what the gift
recipient, rather than the gift buyer, might like.
During this short exchange, Larry skillfully accomplished several things: He
determined that Cheryl was shopping for a gift for her mother’s fiftieth
wedding anniversary. He tried to include a gift for her father but found that
wasn’t his customer’s intention. He learned that Cheryl’s mother was fond of
opals. He suggested and got no resistance to yellow gold. He learned that her
mother probably wouldn’t want an opal necklace.
He gave good reasons for discouraging an opal bracelet. He knew he had a
very expensive black opal and yellow gold brooch and more affordable
matching earrings in stock, so he offered the brooch first, knowing if she refused
it he could fall back to the earrings. Cheryl then raised a price objection that
might have delayed or even stopped the sale. Fortunately, Larry was ready to
move to the next step, Build Value, and to respond to his customer’s hesitation
about price. You’ll learn about this step in the next assignment.
Underlying this exchange of information is a very important point: Larry is
establishing and building trust. When customers trust sales associates and a
store, they buy, they return, and they tell others about their good experience
by spreading favorable word of mouth.
Store Security
• What types of theft are jewelry retailers vulnerable to?
• How can you help prevent thefts and scams?
Gems and jewelry are particularly attractive to thieves because they’re small
and valuable. After all, it’s much easier to steal, conceal, and sell a valuable
diamond than, say, a luxury automobile.
As a beginning sales associate, you’ll probably work in a store where the
security system and procedures were established before you started, and
modified over time to be as effective as possible. Sales associates’ security roles
vary from store to store, and learning yours will be part of your pre-
employment or on-the-job training. As you gain experience, you might be able
to suggest changes if you find areas where security might be improved.
A retail store is vulnerable to several types of theft. These include burglary,
robbery, smash-and-grab, shoplifting, and fraudulent schemes called scams.
 2 JEWELRY ESSENTIALS
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G ems and jewelry are attrac-

tive to thieves because most
items are small and valuable.

Scam—A fraudulent business

scheme or swindle.

Eric Welch/GIA
Most stores make sure that jewelry that exceeds a certain value is removed from window
displays and stored securely in a safe overnight.

Burglary, Theft, and Robbery

Burglars work when stores are closed. You see the results of the break-in but
not the burglars themselves. Most jewelry stores have alarm systems and other
security devices. A simple prevention measure is to empty cases and window
displays and store the items in a safe at night.
Smash-and-grab thieves rely on surprise and speed. They smash a store
window or display case, grab as much merchandise as they can, and flee. They
steal and disappear, sometimes in seconds.
Many stores use shatter-resistant glass to deter smash-and-grab thieves. It’s
one of several ways to prevent or minimize losses. Another method is to spread
the most expensive items around the store. That way, a thief who breaks into
a case won’t steal all the best pieces. Also, smash-and-grab thieves tend to take
what’s easiest to reach, so another deterrent is to keep expensive items toward
the back of a window display.
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Joel Beeson/GIA
Emptying window displays of merchandise
helps discourage thieves from breaking
windows to rob the store at night.

Eric Welch/GIA
In-store security systems range from simple store safes to complex systems like this one. At
night, the shelf in the display cabinet lowers and a steel panel slides over the valuables so they
don't have to be moved.

Robbery is a face-to-face confrontation with a thief who is usually armed and

D agitated. The Jewelers’ Security Alliance, a US organization dedicated to the
uring a robbery, stay calm

protection of jewelers and their businesses, suggests this behavior in a robbery:

and obey the robber’s orders.

The risk of a robbery is highest • Do what the robbers say

• Don’t do or say anything other than what the robbers tell you
during opening and closing.

• Don’t try to disarm a robber or reach for a weapon or alarm activator

• Assume the robber will not hesitate to shoot

• Expect to be threatened, bound, and locked up

• Stay calm

Statistics show that you’re five times more likely to be killed or wounded if
you resist a robber. Trying to use a weapon against an armed criminal is both
dangerous and ineffective. Don’t try to be a hero. Merchandise is replaceable,
but your life and the lives of others are not.
The risk of a robbery increases when you’re opening or closing a store. Most
stores have procedures that can protect you, so always follow them. Ideally,
you should never have to open or close by yourself.
While you’re locking or unlocking the doors, someone should stand a short
distance away to watch for any suspicious characters in the area. Then, when
you first walk into the store, lock the door behind you. Do the same when
you’re preparing the store for closing at night.

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Shoplifting
For every $1 lost to burglars and robbers, the jewelry industry loses $300 to
shoplifters. As a sales associate, you’ll have more contact with shoplifters than
any other store employee has, whether you know the thieves are stealing or
not.
You can help protect against shoplifting by making sure you never leave
merchandise unattended. Always lock the display cases after showing and
replacing jewelry items, and keep the keys with you.
It’s also important to set up the displays so they’re easy to check. If a case is
crowded, it’s hard to tell if anything is missing. When you set up a ring tray, Eric Welch/GIA
fill every space, either with a ring or a placeholder that’s unique to the store
and easy to recognize. Arrange the rings in a geometric pattern so anyone can
Be sure to keep track of all the jewelry items

tell at a glance if one is missing. It’s helpful to map the displays and to keep
you show a customer during a potential sale.

the maps current.

Show only one item at a time when you’re helping a customer make a selection.
If you have several items out on a counter, it’s easier for a thief to steal or A code word or phrase can help

switch an item, or to grab them all and run. And make sure the same person
you alert your co-workers to
who takes an item out of the case is responsible for returning it. That way,
suspicious behavior.
there’s no doubt who’s handling a particular item, and it’s easier to keep track.
Pay close attention to your customers. Make eye contact with and greet
everyone who comes into your store. Besides being a good sales technique, it
discourages thieves because they immediately know you’re aware of them.
Making a habit of this allows you to create a mental picture of anyone who
looks suspicious. Focus on features like gender, age, and height rather than
changeable things like clothes. If you have suspicions, signal the other
employees by using a prearranged code word or phrase.

Eric Welch/GIA
Many jewelry stores have extensive inventories. Preventing losses from shoplifting is a major
challenge.

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Shutterstock
Make sure you follow your store’s guidelines for accepting credit card payments. It’s one way of
guarding against scams.

Scams
A scam is a fraudulent scheme used to make money by dishonest means. It
looks like a legitimate business transaction, but one of the parties involved is
being deceitful. Your store probably has very specific procedures to help protect
against scams.
Scams sometimes involve bad checks. Even if you verify a check with the
customer’s bank or use a bank’s instant electronic check verification service,
there’s nothing to stop a scammer from stopping payment. This even applies
to cashier’s checks, which many people think are foolproof.
Identity theft is a type of scam that has become quite common. You might
encounter a customer who represents himself or herself as someone else and
uses that person’s credit cards and forms of identification to illicitly buy gems
and jewelry. Immediately be suspicious of an unfamiliar customer who is
casually or quickly spending a great deal of money. Asking for at least two
forms of identification and checking them closely is one way to protect yourself
and your store.
Switching stones is another common scam. You might show a dishonest
customer an expensive ruby and wind up with an inexpensive garnet because
your customer distracted your attention and switched stones.
In this assignment, you learned about rings and the beginning stages of the
selling process. You also learned that store security awareness is an important
part of your job. In the next assignment, you’ll learn about earrings, necklaces,
bracelets, brooches, and pins, and then move on to Sales Step 3: Build Value.

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The USA Patriot Act

Suppose a first-time customer comes into your store and, with no comparison
shopping or questions, buys the most expensive piece in your inventory for
cash. As you write out the receipt for $136,000, the customer hesitates to
give a name and address. Would you be suspicious? Would you wonder if
you were taking part in an illegal transaction?

Since January 1, 2006, jewelry trade members have had to comply with
certain provisions of the USA Patriot Act that before that date applied only
to financial institutions. The purpose of those provisions was to guard against
terrorists and other criminals laundering illegally gained cash by buying
gemstones, precious metals, and jewelry, and then converting those
universally valuable items back into cash, making the cash look legitimate.

The USA Patriot Act requires certain trade members to establish anti-money-
laundering programs within their businesses. The provisions are complex
and require close study to understand and implement. The Jewelers Vigilance
Committee put together a compliance kit that—for a fee—guides trade
members through the maze and provides helpful forms. You’ll find details
on their Web site at www.jvclegal.org. As an alternative, you can check
www.fincen.gov/faq060305.pdf for information from the Financial Crimes
Enforcement Network within the U. S. Treasury Department.

KConcepts
ey

A setting’s primary purpose is to Each customer and each situation

hold a gem securely. requires a different approach.

Engagement and wedding rings are
almost always set with diamonds.
Modern three-stone jewelry is
promoted to represent the past,
present, and future of a relation-
ship.
Your appearance should be appro-
priate for your store and clientele.
Knowledge of your store’s merchan-
dise is essential to sales success.
The approach and information
exchange are the most important
parts of the sales process.
Your goal during the approach is to
overcome your customer’s built-in
sales resistance.
When customers trust you and your
store, they’re more likely to buy
from you and to tell others about
their good experience.
Gems and jewelry are attractive to
thieves because most items are
small and valuable.
During a robbery, stay calm and
obey the robber’s orders.
The risk of a robbery is highest
during opening and closing.
A code word or phrase can help
you alert your co-workers to suspi-
cious behavior.
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Key Terms
Anniversary band—Ring with a row
of gems of the same size and cut.
Ballerina ring—A ring that looks
like a ballerina’s tutu, with a
central stone encircled by rectan-
gular diamonds.
Bead setting—Setting style with
gems held in place by rounded
beads, usually pushed up from the
surrounding metal.
Bezel—A thin metal strip that wraps
around a gem to hold it in place.
Birthstone—Gem associated with
the month in which a person was
born.
Bypass (crossover) ring—Ring
where the ends of the shank pass
each other rather than meeting at
the head.
Cabochon—A smoothly rounded
polished gem with a domed top
and a flat or curved base.
Channel setting—Setting style with
gems held in grooves, or channels.
Cluster ring—Ring with a group of
small stones set closely together or
a large central gem surrounded by
several smaller ones.
Cocktail ring—A flashy, oversized
ring, often set with less-expensive
gems.
Engagement ring—Ring set with a
gem, usually a diamond, given to
signify an intention to marry.
Eternity ring—Ring encircled with
a row of closely matched gems.
Findings—Small components used
to make or repair jewelry.
70
Flush setting—Setting style with a
gem set directly into the metal with
its table at the same level as the
metal surface.
Guard—A ring worn to enclose and
enhance another ring; also a bar
secured across a ring’s shank to
reduce its diameter and keep it
from sliding off.
Head—The part of a mounting into
which the main gems are set.
Hololith—Jewelry carved entirely
from a single gemstone, often jade.
Illusion setting—Stone set within a
metal rim that makes the stone look
bigger.
Invisible setting—Setting style with
grooved gems set between metal
rails that hold them in place.
Mother’s ring—Ring personalized
with children’s birthstones.
Objection—A temporary obstacle,
raised by the customer, that delays
or even stops the sale.
Open-ended question—A question
that requires a thoughtful, specific
answer other than “yes” or “no.”
Pavé setting—Bead setting with
many small gems placed close
together, often in a honeycomb
pattern.
Right-hand ring—A diamond ring
promoted as a self-purchase and
worn on a woman’s right hand to
signify independence and power.
Saddle ring—Hololith with a
decoratively carved top.
Scam—A fraudulent business
scheme or swindle.
Semi-mount—A setting with side
gems and space for a center stone
of the customer’s choosing.
Shank—The part of a ring that fits
around the finger.
Signet ring—A flat-topped ring
that might be engraved with initials
or other unique insignia.
Solitaire—Jewelry piece with one
main gem, typically a diamond.
Take-away—A two-part sales
technique that removes a
customer’s just-looking defense.
Tension setting—Setting with gem
held in place by pressure between
opposing pieces of platinum or
karat gold.
Trio—Matched ensemble consisting
of an engagement ring, a woman’s
wedding ring, and a man’s
wedding band.
Turnover—Giving another sales
associate a customer you’re not
compatible with.
Wedding ring—A ring, usually a
plain band, worn by someone who
is married.
Wedding set (duo)—A pair
consisting of a woman’s matched
engagement and wedding rings.
Word of mouth—Spoken informa-
tion passed from person to person.
Wrap—A ring designed to dress up
a second ring, which is often a
solitaire.