Selling Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings, and Pins

Necklaces and Chains. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74

3
Necklace Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Neck Chain Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78

Bracelets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Bracelet Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Cuffs and Bangles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85

Earrings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
Earring Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87

Brooches. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Brooch Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88

Sales Step 3—Build Value . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90

Demonstrating Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Emotional and Tangible Value . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Use a Positive Approach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92

Key Concepts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96

Key Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96

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 Welcome to Jewelry Essentials Assignment 3! With the knowledge you
gain from this assignment, you’ll be able to:
• Identify a wide variety of necklace and neck chain styles and lengths.
• Define bracelet, earring, and brooch styles.
• Demonstrate the operation of various types of jewelry clasps.
• Address the emotional and tangible aspects of jewelry value.

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Vianna Joias
Although rings are the most widely sold jewelry articles, necklaces and earrings are also very popular. Tourmaline and
peridot accent this coordinated suite.

Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,

Earrings, and Pins
Diana was smiling to herself as she entered the jewelry store. Alice, one of the
store’s sales associates, noticed her and approached her in a friendly way.
Alice said, “You look very pleased with yourself. What brings you into our
store?”
“I am,” Diana replied. “My boss gave me a promotion and a raise this morning,
and I’m here to find something nice to celebrate the occasion.”
“Congratulations! And I think I have just the thing that will help you do that,”
said Alice. She had quickly assessed Diana’s coloring, which was nicely
complemented by her choice of a tastefully cut business suit. She also noticed
that Diana’s only jewelry was a lovely pair of earrings with small stones that
looked like red garnets. These observations gave her an idea of what would
be suitable. She led Diana to a glass display case on the opposite side of the
store and pointed to a beautiful 18-karat gold necklace set with a ruby
cabochon.
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JEWELRY ESSENTIALS 3
Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
Earrings, and Pins
Israel Itzkowitz
Each of these heart-shaped pendants contains
21 square or radiant-cut gems, all expertly
matched and set.
Strand—A simple necklace
typically composed of pearls or
beads.
Pendant—An ornament or gem
suspended from a strand, band, or
chain.
Choker—A short, fairly tight-fitting
necklace that hugs the throat.
Collar—A wide necklace worn
above the collarbone.
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Alice pointed out the highly polished gem. “It’s a ruby,” she said. “Isn’t the
color lovely?”
“Yes, it is,” Diana replied warmly. “But I’ve never owned a ruby. I’m sure it’s
much too expensive.”
Alice knew that this was a specific price objection that she couldn’t ignore. She
also knew that a good way to turn a price objection around is to emphasize
value.
“Actually, this ruby is an excellent value,” Alice said.
“Really?” Diana replied. “What makes it an excellent value?”
“The finest rubies are faceted, natural, and untreated,” Alice replied. “And
you’re right, they’re rare and very expensive. But this ruby is a cabochon and
it’s also heat treated. It has the look of a fine-quality ruby, but it actually reduces
your cost in two ways.”
“Two ways?” Diana asked.
“Yes,” Alice replied. “A cabochon is less expensive than a faceted stone. And
heat treatment permanently improves the color and clarity to give a good-
quality ruby a fine-quality look.”
As Diana paused to consider this, Alice unlocked the case, took the necklace
out, and laid it carefully on the counter pad. Then she suggested, “Here, just
try it on.”
Diana took the piece from Alice, draped it around her neck, and turned to let
Alice fasten the clasp. As Diana turned back around, Alice adjusted the counter
mirror so they both could see the necklace.
“Oh, the color is perfect for you,” Alice said. “Don’t you agree?”
“Yes, I like it very much,” Diana replied. “But I’ve been told to be careful with
some of my other jewelry—that gems can scratch or fall out of their mountings.
Can that happen with this ruby?”
“Ruby is the second hardest gem after diamond,” Alice replied, “so unless
you abuse it, it won’t scratch. And a high-quality bezel setting like this is
unlikely to fail. But if it does, it’s guaranteed—we’ll repair it free.”
Satisfied with Alice’s responses to her concerns, Diana smiled to herself as she
turned back and forth to admire her new necklace in the counter mirror.
Necklaces and Chains
• What are the most common necklace lengths?
• What has caused the increased popularity of cultured pearl strands?
• What are some popular chain styles?
In simple terms, a necklace is an ornament worn around the neck. But a necklace
can take a variety of forms. It can be a strand of pearls or beads, a band of precious
metal with or without gems, a chain decorated with gems or other objects, or
an ornamental pendant suspended from a strand, band, or chain.
Necklace lengths also vary. Neck chains are available in several standard
lengths: 16 in. (40 cm), 18 in. (45 cm), 20 in. (50 cm), 24 in. (60 cm), 30 in. (75
cm), and 36 in. (90 cm). Other popular necklace lengths include the choker, a
short, fairly tight-fitting necklace that hugs the throat, and the collar, a wide
necklace worn above the collarbone.
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Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
Earrings, and Pins

Eric Welch/GIA
This contemporary yellow gold and gem-set necklace reproduces a
traditional style from India.

Cultured Pearl Association of America, Inc. Vianna Joias

The pearl strand is a classic and flexible style that can coordinate with This bold pendant showcases different quartz gemstones in rich earth
a variety of outfits. These uniquely contoured pearls—called tones. A rough leather strap completes the “earthy” look.
baroques—are highly fashionable today.

Alexandra Hart/Adam Bujnowski Sylvia Bissonette

This handmade silver necklace has cast bronze accents. It’s a collar A choker is designed to fit tightly around the wearer’s neck.
style that’s worn above the collarbone.

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JEWELRY ESSENTIALS 3
Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
Earrings, and Pins
Bail—The piece of metal that
attaches a pendant to a chain or
strand.
Slide—A pendant that attaches
directly to a chain without a bail.
Enhancer—A removable pendant
designed to accent a strand of
beads or cultured pearls.
Station necklace—A necklace with
gems, cultured pearls, or beads
positioned at regular intervals.
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Necklace lengths
16” chain
18” chain
20” chain
24” chain
30” chain
36” chain
Peter Johnston/GIA
Necklaces and chains come in several standard lengths for daytime to evening wear.
Necklace Styles
The pendant necklace is very popular with both men and women. The pendant
is often attached with a piece of metal called a bail. There’s also a type of
pendant that fits directly onto the chain without a bail. It’s called a slide.
The diamond solitaire pendant necklace is a best seller in today’s market. The
diamond can be any size and shape, and it’s often prong-set, but might be
bezel-set.
The cultured pearl strand is another popular style. Its popularity has risen
with increases in the number of types of cultured pearls in the marketplace.
The traditional cream and white colors of akoya cultured pearls have been
supplemented by deeply hued Tahitian and golden South Sea cultured pearls,
and Chinese freshwater cultured pearls in exciting new hues.
Some necklaces consist of multiple strands layered or twisted together. A bead
or pearl strand might also feature an enhancer—a removable pendant that
clips onto the strand to give it a different look.
The station necklace features gems, beads, or cultured pearls at regularly spaced
intervals on cord, chain, or wire. The intervals are called stations. Tiffany’s
popular Diamonds by the Yard is a classic station necklace, with round brilliant
diamonds spaced along a gold or platinum chain.
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Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
Earrings, and Pins

The soft shimmer of pearls and a classically inspired yellow gold

mounting partner perfectly with bezel-set colored gems in this double
strand necklace. It’s accompanied by matching earrings.

Eric Welch/GIA Valerie Power/GIA

Two diamond solitaires are paired in this delicate necklace. The larger In this contemporary interpretation of a station necklace, dark Tahitian
diamonds’ yellow color adds interest to the piece. cultured pearls punctuate a chunky white gold chain.

Susan Sadler Fine Jewelry Design
A bold red tourmaline enhancer adds contrast
and sparkle to a seawater blue necklace made
from tumbled rough aquamarine.
Vianna Joias
Quartz gems range from strong purple
amethyst to the faintest rosy blush in this big,
bold designer necklace.
Frank Centrilla
A parade of round brilliant diamonds range
from small to large in this necklace. This style
is marketed as a journey necklace.

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JEWELRY ESSENTIALS 3
Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
Earrings, and Pins
The market encompasses a great variety of
chain designs and finishes. Chain necklaces
often combine different gold alloy colors and
textures.
Curb link chain—Chain style with
flattened oval links.
Figaro chain—Type of curb link
chain with a repeating pattern of
long and short links.
Rope chain—Solid or hollow chain
that usually has oval links and
resembles a woven rope.
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Vianna Joias
This unique necklace rests on the shoulders. An artisan fashioned each large link individually.
Neck Chain Styles
Personal adornment with neck chains has a long history. They were especially
popular in the Renaissance and Victorian eras. Early artisans fashioned chains
by hand. Hand fabrication means each link must be individually shaped,
attached to the next link, and soldered shut, making this a labor-intensive and
expensive process.
Some of today’s designers still use hand fabrication to create unique chains
with intricate patterns, and links in unusual abstract shapes. Even so, most
modern chains are machine-made.
The unadorned chain comes in styles for both men and women. A typical chain
is a series of linked loops of metal wire, but it might consist of connected balls
or disks instead.
The curb link chain is a jewelry store basic. The style consists of oval links that
are twisted and then flattened so the chain lies flat. Curb link chains are strong
yet flexible, and they’re usually easy to repair.
The figaro chain is a fashionable variation on the curb link chain. The classic
figaro chain consists of three short links between each pair of long links. Other
figaro styles have a similar repeating pattern, but the number of short links
varies.
Rope chains usually consist of attached segments of two or more oval links
each. This classic style, which resembles woven rope, offers a substantial,
opulent look, especially in wider widths. The links of a rope chain might be
solid or hollow, and they sometimes feature small flat surfaces that give them
extra sparkle.
 3 JEWELRY ESSENTIALS
Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
Earrings, and Pins

GIA & Tino Hammid Robert Weldon/GIA

The individual links in this hefty chain have a distinctive hammered At the heart of this special necklace is an 18K gold chain. A tapestry of
finish. The texture contrasts nicely with the satiny luster of the pearls. green garnets, tourmalines, peridots, and cultured pearls hang like
charms from its links.

M ost modern chains are

machine-made.

Box chain—A chain consisting of

angular links joined by solid metal
squares.
Omega chain—A flexible chain
consisting of tightly joined diagonal
segments.

Shutterstock
Substantial feel and rich yellow color make this chain especially desirable. This pattern of inter-
locking links is called herringbone.

Box chains are made up of angular links joined together by solid metal squares.
The combination gives the chain the appearance of a succession of tiny boxes.
At first glance, omega chains look like hoops of solid metal. Closer inspection
reveals tightly joined, diagonal segments that let the chain flex and conform
to the shape of the wearer’s neck.
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JEWELRY ESSENTIALS 3
Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
Earrings, and Pins
©GIA & Tino Hammid/photography
In the 1800s, Victorian designers revived
many bracelet styles. This flexible bracelet is a
reinterpretation of earlier Greek and Roman
motifs.
B racelets are among the earliest
personal adornments.
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©Corbis, Mimmo Jodice/photography
Bracelets have been popular since the time of the Roman Empire. This gold bracelet from
Pompeii features a common motif—a serpent’s head.
©GIA & Tino Hammid/photography
This is also a Victorian revival of Greco-Roman style, with a trio of classically inspired carvings
in layered agate.
Bracelets
• What is one of today’s most popular bracelet styles?
• Which bracelet types are rigid rather than flexible?
Bracelets are among the earliest adornments. In ancient Egypt, men and
women frequently wore gold bands or twisted gold wire on their wrists and
upper arms. Early bracelets were often decorated with figures of snakes or
sphinxes.
Bracelets remained popular until the fall of the Roman Empire (476 AD), when
the long sleeves worn in the Middle Ages (476 AD to 1517 AD) sent them into
obscurity. Bracelets didn’t become fashionable again until the 1800s.
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Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
Earrings, and Pins

Robert Weldon/GIA Uwe Wruck

This 22K yellow gold and pearl bracelet features a safety chain that A contemporary designer united the simplicity of older diamond cuts
provides extra security if the clasp accidentally unfastens or breaks. with smooth yellow gold settings for a sleek look. Each bracelet holds
18 old-mine cut diamonds, for a total gem weight of almost 75 carats.

This bracelet showcases natural-color cultured pearls strung with multicolored sapphires in 18K
green gold mountings.

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JEWELRY ESSENTIALS 3
Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
Earrings, and Pins

Valerie Power/GIA Eric Welch/GIA

These playful and inexpensive silver bracelets incorporate chunky Rich purple enamel provides contrast for a striking yellow gold
tablets encrusted with glittering tiny crystals. Their iridescent appear- abstract design. Except for the clasps, each link is identical. They were
ance is caused by a thin metal coating applied in a laboratory. produced using the lost-wax casting process.

Tennis bracelet—A flexible bracelet

set with a line of small matched
gems, typically diamonds.
Bracelet Styles
Some bracelet styles might be set with gems. Others might display the beauty
of precious metal alone. Some bracelets are flexible, while others are rigid.
A bracelet might be a simple chain worn around the wrist, and it’s often paired
with a matching neck chain. Chain bracelets are worn by both men and women.
Curb link chains, for example, are often used in traditional men’s and women’s
identification bracelets.
The typical length for a woman’s chain bracelet is about 7 in. (18 cm). Bracelets
might be made in other lengths to be worn around the upper arm or ankle.
The diamond tennis bracelet is one of today’s most popular bracelet styles. It’s
a flexible band of precious metal set with small faceted gems—typically
diamonds. The gems are matched in size and set in a line that encircles the
wrist.
The tennis bracelet is actually the classic straight-line bracelet with a new name.
It got that name from champion tennis player Chris Evert. Evert’s diamond
straight-line bracelet slipped off during a televised tennis match. She stopped
the match to retrieve it, calling it her “tennis bracelet,” and the name became
part of jewelry history.

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Hamilton Jewelers
Large gems in pastel colors give this bracelet
style and heft. The piece is accented with a
diamond-set clasp.

Eric Welch/GIA
This upscale diamond line bracelet features colorless emerald cuts and larger yellow radiant-cut
gems.

Charm bracelet—A bracelet

consisting of one or more small
attached ornaments.

Peter Krasilnikoff
Charm bracelets are still popular today. They’re easily customized by the wearer, who can add
charms to celebrate important life events.

Charm bracelets are decorated with one or more small ornaments, or charms,
which might be beads or cast metal figures, and are sometimes set with cultured
pearls or gems. Many bracelets come with the charms already attached, but
some allow the wearer to buy charms separately and add them.
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JEWELRY ESSENTIALS 3
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Earrings, and Pins

These flexible cuffs are crafted of stainless

steel rather than white gold. Both have 18K
yellow gold end pieces, and one is accented
with diamonds.

These bracelets feature white gold and pavé-

set diamonds.

Tino Hammid/GIA
This flexible 18K yellow gold cuff in the crossover style is enriched by scores of beautiful
diamonds. It was produced by jewelry design house Van Cleef & Arpels around 1945.

Hamilton Jewelers
This beautifully finished 18K yellow gold bracelet features a delicate scroll design accented
with clusters of tiny diamonds.

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 3 JEWELRY ESSENTIALS
Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
Earrings, and Pins

Valerie Power/GIA
To some consumers, silver is appealing
because of the metal’s antique appearance.
It’s apparent in these tribal bangles from
India.

Shutterstock
These high-karat yellow gold bangles display an arresting degree of luster and color.

Cuffs and Bangles

Cuff and bangle bracelets are rigid rather than flexible. Cuffs can be wide or Cuff bracelet—A C-shaped band
narrow bands, and they’re C-shaped to fit over the wrist or arm. Popular with that fits over the wrist or arm.
the ancients, today they are often plain, brightly polished metal.
Bangle bracelet—A rigid,
Cuffs might have filigree or openwork designs. Filigree is designed with thin, sometimes hinged, bracelet that
intricately interlaced wire. Openwork is similar, with holes that allow the slips over the wrist.
passage of light, sometimes through a gem or gems.
Filigree—A design made with thin,
A bangle bracelet can be circular or oval. It might also be a square or other intricately interlaced wire.
angular shape. Most bangles are made of precious metal, but they can also be
fashioned from jadeite, nephrite, or a combination of materials. Jade bangles Openwork—A design with open
are often hololiths, carved from a single piece of rough. areas that allow the passage of
light, sometimes through gems.
Women sometimes wear several bangles stacked together. Bangles can slip on
over the hand or open and close by means of hinge and clasp mechanisms.
Hinged bangles usually have short safety chains to keep them from falling off
if their clasps open accidentally. Bangles, like cuffs, can be ornate or plain, with
or without gems.

Earrings
• What factors have influenced earring design and use over the years?
• Which earring types are popular today?
Earrings come in many shapes and sizes, and these face-framing ornaments
have been part of every culture. Earrings of ancient Greece—some representing
boats, animal heads, or supernatural figures—are especially fine examples of
classical design. Over the centuries, earring design has changed many times
in response to fashion and hairstyles.
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Earrings, and Pins

Claire Bersani
These classically inspired earrings feature red
garnet cabochons and freshwater cultured
pearls.

© Michael Good Constantine Rota

These earrings blend 22K yellow gold and Earrings provide a rich variety of styles to choose from. A cascade of tiny diamonds in this pair
bronze for a totally unique look. They’re adds grace and sparkle.
formed from flat ribbons of metal, which are
worked by hand into spirals.

Vianna Joias
A coordinated look can be achieved by
combining earrings with a matching necklace

Tino Hammid/GIA Robert Weldon/GIA

or pendant. The bold combination of lighter
and darker gem colors is a contemporary
jewelry fashion trend.
Linked platinum rings set with round brilliants These earrings feature Tahitian cultured pearls
add drama to simple diamond studs in these in enameled 18K yellow gold mountings.
earrings. They’re secured in the wearer’s ears by long
curved wire backs.

Screwback—A device that secures Earrings might be attached by a wire that passes through a hole pierced
an earring to an earlobe with a flat- through the earlobe or grip a non-pierced earlobe with a clip or screwback.
ended screw. The screwback consists of a screw with a flat end that tightens against the
earlobe.

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Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
Earrings, and Pins

Hoop earrings are perennial favorites. This
modern interpretation boasts 18K white gold
mountings and natural pearls accented with
tiny diamonds.
Valerie Power/GIA
These amethyst earrings show typical stud
styling, with smooth metal posts secured by
removable butterfly clutches.
Valerie Power/GIA
Like pearl strands, pearl studs are classic
jewelry items. They can complement virtually
any outfit.

Eric Welch/GIA
These 18K white gold drop earrings feature
two checkerboard-cut blue topaz gems and
0.59 carats of diamonds.
Hamilton Jewelers
Contrasting colored gems in pastel shades
and bolder hues create an eye-catching
display in these colorful earrings.
Valerie Power/GIA
Pearls are the perfect choice for drop earrings.
This matched pair of South Sea cultured
pearls shares 18K white gold mountings with
diamonds and marquise-cut rubies.

Earring Styles
The hoop earring is one of the oldest types. The popular modern version is Hoop earring—A dangling, circular
made of tubing, solid wire, or a band that dangles in a hoop-like arc from the earring made from solid wire or
earlobe. Hoops come in many sizes and styles. They might be all metal or set tubing.
with gems.
Stud earring—An earring with a
Unlike hoops, stud earrings don’t dangle, but nestle against the earlobe. A post small ornament or gem on a post,
passes through the pierced earlobe, and a butterfly clutch—also called a friction designed to nestle against the
back—slips onto the post and locks the earring in place. The post might also earlobe.
be threaded to screw into the clutch or be designed to slide into a spring-
loaded clip. Post—The part of an earring that
passes through a pierced earlobe.
Stud earrings are sometimes plain metal, but many styles feature prong-set or
bezel-set gems or cultured pearls. Diamond stud earrings are very popular, Butterfly clutch—A fitting that
especially as wedding, anniversary, or birthday gifts. slips onto the back of a post to hold
an earring in place.
The addition of an earring jacket can enhance the look of a stud earring. Earring
jackets are detachable ornaments that surround or otherwise adorn stud Earring jacket—A detachable
earrings to create a different look. ornament that surrounds or other-
Drop earrings—earrings with one or more dangling ornaments—were popular wise adorns a stud earring.
during the seventeenth century and parts of the eighteenth century. They were Drop earring—An earring with one
usually elaborate, made of enameled gold and richly set with pearls or or more dangling ornaments.
diamonds. Drop earrings are still popular today.
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JEWELRY ESSENTIALS 3
Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
Earrings, and Pins
Brooch (pin)—Jewelry piece that
attaches to a garment, often by a
hinged pin and catch.
Stickpin—A long, straight pin with
an ornamental top.
Tie tack—A short, ornamental pin
that pierces and decorates a man’s
tie.
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Body Jewelry
People have been piercing their bodies
and adorning them with jewelry for
hundreds, if not thousands, of years.
Even so, body jewelry is a fairly modern
addition to the jewelry trade. This
unusual category is more accurately
described as body-piercing jewelry.
In Assignment 1, you learned that certain This body jewelry clasp features
metals—titanium, niobium, and stainless emeralds in white gold. The
wearer can choose a charm to
steel, for example—are used for body finish the piece.
jewelry because they are hypoallergenic.
Manufacturers use these metals, often
accompanied by synthetic or natural
gemstones, to design jewelry that
wearers insert in pierced navels, nipples,
nostrils, lips, eyebrows, tongues, and
other body parts.
The jewelry can be as simple as a post
or as elaborate as a circle or two of metal
embellished with a bejeweled pendant
or slide. Body-piercing jewelry is also
made from organic and manmade Body jewelry can be of fine
materials, including bone, coral, horn, quality. This example features a
4.23-ct. tourmaline drop and a
amber, wood, glass, acrylic, and polyester. palladium clasp.
Brooches
• What is one of the oldest pin styles?
• What are some popular brooch design themes?
Long ago, people used brooches, or pins, to keep their clothing in place, making
them practical as well as ornamental. Today, buttons, zippers, and hook-and-
loop fasteners like Velcro serve this purpose, and pins are worn primarily as
ornaments. In Japan, they still serve both purposes by decorating ladies’
ceremonial kimonos and also holding the folds of clothing in place.
Brooch Styles
One of the simplest and oldest pin styles is the stickpin. This long, straight pin
typically features an ornamental top with an animal motif or other design, a
gemstone, or a cultured pearl. The pin might have a safety catch that grips the
pinpoint at the other end. Women wear stickpins in scarves or lapels. The
version for men—sometimes called a tie pin—decorates a man’s necktie.
A tie tack is a more modern version of the stick pin. It consists of a short pin
that pierces the tie and secures at the back with a safety catch. The catch
sometimes fits through a shirt buttonhole with a bar and chain that hold the
tie against the shirt. The tie tack is often set with a gem that appears to float
against the tie when the tie tack is in place.

GIA & Tino Hammid  Valerie Power/GIA
This buckle brooch from the 1920s uses
colored gems to portray an Egyptian motif
against a diamond pavé background. Its
wearer might use it alone or to secure a
fashionable scarf or shawl.
Robert Weldon/GIA
Animal designs are common in pins and
brooches. This antique French example
features a fierce eagle with outstretched
wings.
Van Cleef & Arpels
This spectacular stylized lion brooch incorpo-
rates pink coral, amethysts, emeralds, and
diamonds.
Green enamel lends color to the clover
design of this crescent brooch. Tiny diamonds
at the center of each cloverleaf add a dash of
sparkle.
Valerie Power/GIA
This bar-shaped brooch is from the early
1900s. At its center is a delicate pale blue
sapphire.  Bar brooches were popular for
lapel wear or for securing a scarf.
Eric Welch/GIA
Stickpins secure scarves or decorate lapels.
This example—in the Art Nouveau style—
shows a woman’s head in profile, with a tiny
diamond accent in her hair.
3 JEWELRY ESSENTIALS
Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
Earrings, and Pins
Robert Weldon/GIA
These graceful contemporary butterfly
brooches feature a multitude of rare gems,
including emerald, spinel, sphene, and
natural pearls.
Eric Welch/GIA
This brooch from the 1800s uses circle and
leaf motifs, both of which were popular at the
time. It’s accented with seed pearls and
diamonds.
Valerie Power/GIA
This more natural interpretation of a lion is
crafted of high-karat yellow gold, which lends
color and texture to the design. A scattering
of tiny gems adds sparkle and a touch of
realism to the branch below.
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Robert Weldon/GIA
In this brooch, an orange flame of carved fire
opal erupts from the dragon’s mouth. The
dragon’s head is engraved yellow gold. The
designer used a wide range of gems,
including green sapphires, tsavorite garnets,
mother-of-pearl, and diamonds.
T a popular lapel ornament. Brooches come in a variety of shapes, including
rade and fashion magazines
can help you keep up with
constantly changing jewelry
trends.
90
Robert Weldon/GIA Robert Weldon/GIA
A glorious velvety purple amethyst is at the This beautiful orchid brooch combines 24K
center of this Victorian gold and pearl yellow gold, platinum, yellow sapphires, and
“sunburst” brooch. It can be converted into a diamonds.
pendant.
As more women started entering the work force in the 1970s, the brooch became
circles, bows, flowers, geometric shapes, and even insect and animal designs.
Brooches are styled with and without gems. Their designs can be sweet and
sentimental or bold and abstract. Some brooches, especially in estate or vintage
jewelry, have a dangling cultured pearl, pendant, or tassel. Most brooches
fasten to a dress or lapel by means of a pin and safety catch.
The jewelry styles you’ve learned about so far represent a small portion of the
constantly changing world of jewelry fashion. The best way to stay informed
about jewelry trends is by reading trade and fashion magazines.
Sales Step 3—Build Value
• What’s the best way to demonstrate jewelry for a customer?
• What are the two types of value you can use in a sales presentation?
• How do you develop a positive approach?
In the approach and information exchange steps, you met your customer,
welcomed her to your store, and started a dialogue. You encouraged your
customer to talk. By doing that, you learned something about her and what
she’s shopping for. You eased or overcame her defenses, and you began to
build trust. You also helped her narrow her choices. Now it’s time to
demonstrate jewelry, to build value, and to overcome any objections she might
have.
Demonstrating Jewelry
To build value, it’s important to demonstrate the jewelry rather than merely
show it. You should involve your customer in the demonstration by letting
her try the jewelry on. Give her a mirror so she can see how it looks. If looking
at the stone or stones through a loupe or microscope helps, give your customer
access to those tools.
 3 JEWELRY ESSENTIALS
Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
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Valerie Power/GIA
Once a customer tries on a piece of jewelry,
she can start to imagine what it would be like
to own it.

Valerie Power/GIA
Once you’ve determined the kind of jewelry your customer is looking for, it’s time to let her try
on a few pieces.

Use your product knowledge to be sure your demonstration provides plenty

of information. This is where you introduce the jewelry’s features and benefits.
Make sure to pair features with benefits. For example, extreme hardness is a
A lways pair features with their
corresponding benefits.
diamond feature. Long wear and high resistance to scratching are its corre-
sponding benefits. People make buying decisions

People make buying decisions basetd on benefits, not features. Customers

based on benefits, not features.

want answers to the questions, “What’s in it for me?” and “What benefits does
this product provide me?”
Tailor the feature and benefit

Since you’ve exchanged information with your customer, you have some idea
information to your customer’s

of the benefits she expects from the jewelry she might buy. Therefore, you can
needs.

tailor the features and benefits you mention to meet your customer’s specific
needs.
A jewelry piece’s value can be
both emotional and tangible.

Emotional and Tangible Value

The value of a jewelry piece can be both emotional and tangible, so it’s
important to address both. Since a jewelry purchase almost always involves
emotion, begin with that and follow with the jewelry’s tangible value.
For example, in the scenario that opened this assignment, Alice led with the
emotional value of Diana’s potential purchase by congratulating her and
suggesting that she had just the piece to commemorate her good news. Alice
gave the jewelry personal value for her customer by linking it to her reason
for buying.
Alice had noticed Diana’s hair and complexion and her attentiveness to color
coordination, so she chose a piece with a feature whose principal benefit was
its red color. Alice also concluded that because she was wearing no jewelry
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Eric Welch/GIA
This pendant bears an ancient Afghan coin—
possibly from the time of Alexander the
Great. It also features red spinel accent
stones and an antique-style mounting. It
makes a compelling story to tell a customer
with an interest in archeology or past civiliza-
tions.
Tag—Restatement of a benefit,
posed as a question and designed
to elicit agreement.
92
Eric Welch/GIA Valerie Power/GIA
When describing this piece, a statement like The natural lines, textures, and precious metal
“Isn’t this red tourmaline’s color vivid?” might colors of this beautiful pendant would have
surprise and intrigue a customer who’s direct appeal to anyone with a love for
expecting a ruby. horses.
except inexpensive garnet earrings, she probably wouldn’t buy a very
expensive piece.
She steered Diana toward a piece with an expensive look and greater value
than her garnet earrings, but that wasn’t likely to be so expensive that Diana
wouldn’t be able to buy it. After identifying the stone pendant and its setting,
Alice emphasized the emotional value of Diana’s potential purchase. She did
this by asking, “Isn’t the color lovely?”
Alice had restated the benefit of the ruby’s red color, then asked Diana a
question designed to get her to agree. This is called a tag.
Alice then touched upon value, talking about affordability only when Diana
mentioned price. She built the enhanced ruby cabochon’s tangible value by
comparing it to what she knew would be a very expensive untreated ruby.
She used her product knowledge to firmly establish the cabochon’s value and
to convey the fact that Diana was getting a fine-looking ruby at a good price.
To reinforce the necklace’s emotional value, Alice helped Diana try it on.
Finally, when Diana raised questions about the jewelry’s durability, Alice used
her product and store-policy knowledge to overcome those objections.
Use a Positive Approach
Using the right words is important when you’re selling jewelry, particularly
when you’re building value. Words like “love,” “you,” and “your” contribute
to emotional value, while “guarantee,”“proven,” and “safety” contribute to
tangible value.
 3 JEWELRY ESSENTIALS
Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
Earrings, and Pins

Y ou’ll be most successful

when you sell each piece on
its own merits.

Avoid negative comments about

competing merchandise or a
competitor’s store.

Price is less important to a

customer who understands value.

Valerie Power/GIA
If your customer falls in love with an inexpensive jewelry piece instead of the one you
expected, respect her choice. Building a relationship with the client is more important than a
single sale. She might buy a much more expensive piece next time.

You’ll be most successful when you sell each piece on its own merits. Don’t
fall into the trap of negatively comparing one piece with another or one
gemstone with another. If your customer shifts her buying attention to a
comparison piece that you’ve already portrayed negatively, you’ve lost any
chance of a sale.

Also, don’t make negative comments about competing merchandise or a

competitor’s store. That only creates a gloomy, negative atmosphere that
clouds your sales environment.

Unless price is so high that it removes a piece from consideration, price is less
important to a customer who understands the emotional and tangible value
of the jewelry. With your product knowledge, you can help her see that she’s
getting good value for her money.

Occasionally, you’ll encounter a customer who’s on a mission to buy. You don’t

want to get in her way, but what if you see she’s making a risky choice? For
example, what if your customer likes pink gemstones and is determined to
buy a relatively soft stone like kunzite to mount in a ring she’ll be wearing
every day?

You might want to suggest that she consider a harder stone like pink sapphire
and explain why. This way, you can gently steer your customer off the wrong
course and onto one that will both fulfill her mission to buy and register a
good sale for your store. In the end, it’s likely your customer will be grateful,
return for future purchases, and recommend you to others.

In the next assignment, you’ll learn about designer, branded, custom, and
estate jewelry, and proceed to Sales Step 4: Create Desire.
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International Jewelry Sales: India

Eric Welch/GIA
In India, jewelry consumption is increasing.

The jewelry store was located on a busy downtown street
in Hyderabad, India. The storefront was narrow—a glass
wall with no window displays. The interior was a long center
aisle lined with glass-topped display cases and, behind
them, shallow, glass-front cabinets. The cases displayed
items like rings, pins, bracelets, and bangles, while
necklaces, chains, and earrings hung on pins in the cabinets.
The jewelry selection was mostly gold. Some items
contained gemstones or pearls, but most did not.
The store’s salespeople stood stationed behind the thigh-
high display cases. Some of them were busy with customers,
while others waited. Cup-shaped chairs sat in the aisle in
front of the cases. The store was softly lit and free of glare.
A tall, slender woman entered the store. Her movement
down the center aisle was more a flow than a walk. She
wore a traditional saree over a petticoat and tight-fitting
blouse, or choli. The saree’s loose end, or pallu, crossed her
torso and draped over her left shoulder, where it was
fastened with a gold pin. Its hem was decorated with
intricately woven gold thread. As she reached a seat, every
eye turned toward her. The salesperson closest to the
woman’s chair stepped forward.
“Good morning, what jewelry may I show you today?” he
asked.
“I am looking for gold bangles,” the woman replied.
“We have many styles, all in 18- or 22-karat gold,” he said.
“Are you interested in something simple, elaborate, or in
between?”
“Fairly elaborate, and with inset emeralds,” she replied.
“I think we have many you will like,” he said. “My name
is Raj, what may I call you?”
“I am Lakshmi,” the woman replied with a hint of a smile
on her lips and in her eyes.
Raj slid the display case open from the rear and took out a
long, black velvet bar, around which were looped about 50
gleaming bangles resting side by side. The styles varied in
complexity. Some had inset gems, while others did not.
Many were duplicates. Lakshmi looked them over and
touched a pair near one end. Raj removed them and placed
them on the counter pad.
“Please,” he said, “slip them on.” Lakshmi picked up both
with her right hand and slipped them over her left hand

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Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
Earrings, and Pins

onto her wrist. She raised her arm to let the bangles dangle.
She moved her arm slightly and watched the bangles swing
to and fro. The small, round emeralds looked good set in
yellow gold.
“I like them and want to buy both,” Lakshmi said with no
hesitation. “What’s your price?”
“Today, I can give them to you for 68,175 rupees,” Raj said.
“Today?” Lakshmi asked. “Do you mean if I was here
Andy Lucas/GIA
yesterday or came tomorrow, the price would be different?”
Raj was taken aback. He didn’t expect a response like that
Indian jewelry outlets range from casual, informal stalls and booths to
from such an elegant woman. exclusive high-end stores.
“I’m sorry,” Raj said, “the price of gold varies, and our finished
jewelry prices have to follow.”
“Yes,” Lakshmi replied, “but there is more than gold in these
bangles. You have to cast the gold, and you have to buy and
set the emeralds. You must have some flexibility there.” Raj
knew Lakshmi was right, and she was prepared to drive a
hard bargain. He also knew that the store’s owner allowed
a little price flexibility that Raj could use when haggling with
a tough customer.
“Well,” Raj countered, “since you want to buy two, I can
give you a 5 percent discount. That would make it 64,766
rupees.” Raj had used a handheld calculator to find the
Eric Welch/GIA
discounted price.
“The most I will pay is 64,000,” Lakshmi said firmly. As India’s middle class grows, educated consumers demand a wider
selection of jewelry styles.
“One moment please,” Raj said, “let me speak with the
owner.”
Raj walked to the rear of the store, parted a curtain and disap-
peared behind it. A few moments later, he returned.
“Mr. Singh has authorized me to sell the two bangles for
64,500 rupees,” he said.
“Sixty-four two fifty,” Lakshmi instantly replied.
“Agreed,” Raj said. “Would you like them wrapped, or do
you want to wear them?”
“I’ll wear them,” Lakshmi said as she withdrew a roll of bills
from her purse and counted out 64,250 rupees.
In many parts of the world, jewelry salespeople have to deal
with shifting precious metal costs as well as customers who
haggle over the price of a piece of jewelry. Raj didn’t want
to lose the sale and the potential of future sales, so he was Eric Welch/GIA
willing to accommodate Lakshmi to some degree. He knew In this upscale store, custom-made display cases coordinate with
the pricing structure for his store, but when Lakshmi pushed tasteful decor and focused lighting to provide a perfect backdrop for
its limits, Raj was careful to consult with the owner before the jewelry.
committing to a sale he might regret.

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JEWELRY ESSENTIALS 3
Selling Necklaces, Bracelets,
Earrings, and Pins
KConcepts
ey
Most modern chains are machine-
made.
Bracelets are among the earliest
personal adornments.
Trade and fashion magazines can
help you keep up with constantly
changing jewelry trends.
Always pair features with their
corresponding benefits.
Key Terms
Bail—The piece of metal that
attaches a pendant to a chain or
strand.
Bangle bracelet—A rigid,
sometimes hinged, bracelet that
slips over the wrist.
Box chain—A chain consisting of
angular links joined by solid metal
squares.
Brooch (pin)—Jewelry piece that
attaches to a garment, often by a
hinged pin and catch.
Butterfly clutch—A fitting that
slips onto the back of a post to hold
an earring in place.
Charm bracelet—A bracelet
consisting of one or more small
attached ornaments.
Choker—A short, fairly tight-fitting
necklace that hugs the throat.
Collar—A wide necklace worn
above the collarbone.
Cuff bracelet—A C-shaped band
that fits over the wrist or arm.
Curb link chain—Chain style with
flattened oval links.
96
People make buying decisions
based on benefits, not features.
Tailor the feature and benefit
information to your customer’s
needs.
A jewelry piece’s value can be
both emotional and tangible.
You’ll be most successful when you
sell each piece on its own merits.
Drop earring—An earring with one
or more dangling ornaments.
Earring jacket—A detachable
ornament that surrounds or other-
wise adorns a stud earring.
Enhancer—A removable pendant
designed to accent a strand of
beads or cultured pearls.
Figaro chain—Type of curb link
chain with a repeating pattern of
long and short links.
Filigree—A design made with thin,
intricately interlaced wire.
Hoop earring—A dangling, circular
earring made from solid wire or
tubing.
Omega chain—A flexible chain
consisting of tightly joined diagonal
segments.
Openwork—A design with open
areas that allow the passage of
light, sometimes through gems.
Pendant—An ornament or gem
suspended from a strand, band, or
chain.
Post—The part of an earring that
passes through a pierced earlobe.
Avoid negative comments about
competing merchandise or a
competitor’s store.
Price is less important to a
customer who understands value.
Rope chain—Solid or hollow chain
that usually has oval links and
resembles a woven rope.
Screwback—A device that secures
an earring to an earlobe with a flat-
ended screw.
Slide—A pendant that attaches to a
chain without a bail.
Station necklace—A necklace with
gems, cultured pearls, or beads
positioned at regular intervals.
Stickpin—A long, straight pin with
an ornamental top.
Strand—A simple necklace typically
composed of pearls or beads.
Stud earring—An earring with a
small ornament or gem on a post,
designed to nestle against the
earlobe.
Tag—Restatement of a benefit,
posed as a question and designed
to elicit agreement.
Tennis bracelet—A flexible bracelet
set with a line of small matched
gems, typically diamonds.
Tie tack—A short, ornamental pin
that pierces and decorates a man’s
tie.