Professional Documents
Culture Documents
MFW November Portfolio Update
MFW November Portfolio Update
MFW November Portfolio Update
France
Loire – Pays Nantais
Domaine de la Bregeonnette
Joseph Orieux founded this domaine in the town of Vallet in the 1960's and has been organic from the start, recently becoming certified (only 12
producers out of 600+ actually have the certification). Today, Joseph's grandson, Stéphane Orieux upholds his family's traditions of organic farming,
hand-harvesting, wild yeast fermentations, and long, sur-lie aging. Due to the many decades of experience, Bregeonnette has become a reference
point for other winemakers in the region who want to learn how to work organically in the vines. Even Marc Ollivier of Domaine de la Pépière consults
Stéphane when he has questions about organic treatments. The same care and dedication to quality is present throughout the entire range of wines.
Everything is harvested by hand, including the Gros Plant, and the top, single-parcel wine, "Clos de la Coudray", spends 18 months sur-lie.
Loire – Anjou-Saumur
Bertin-Delatte
In the past decade or so, the town of Rablay-sur-Layon has become a small hub for dedicated, young winemakers in the Loire Valley. While the village
was traditionally known for sweet wines made from Chenin Blanc, Geneviève Delatte and Nicolas Bertin of Bertin-Delatte have chosen a different path,
expressing their terroir through precise, textured, and age-worthy dry wines. In 2008, Geneviève and Nicolas were able to purchase their own, small
vineyard, a 3ha lieu-dit named "Echalier". Having worked with Mark Angeli and inspired by their neighbor, Richard Leroy, it was evident from the start that
they would farm organically. In the cellar, the winemaking philosophy is very simple: intervene as little as possible and let nature take its course.
Fermentations are with native yeast, there is minimal use of SO2, and some oak is used, but only in small proportions to provide texture and balance the
powerful acidity of Chenin grown in the schist soils of Rablay. The result is a set of distinctive and pure wines that are true to Geneviève and Nicolas'
vision and terroir.
Mélaric
Aymeric Hillaire and Mélanie Cunin originally met while studying enology in Montpellier, and then traveled the world together, making wine in both
hemispheres, and racking up some impressive work experience along the way with people like Château Pradeaux in Bandol, Château Guiraud in
Sauternes, and, most notably, Bernard Baudry in Chinon. Inspired by Baudry, in 2006 the two would return to Aymeric's hometown within the new
appellation of Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame, and slowly built up their vineyard holdings to the 4ha they have today, naming their new winery Mélaric (a
combination of their two names). They purchased two notable lieux-dits, "Billes de Roche" and "Clos de la Cerisae", and immediately converted
everything to organics, and followed up with the introduction of biodynamics. The vineyards are planted on shallow clay soils with a base of pure
limestone chalk beneath, which was the basis for awarding this area it's own AOP. Vines are very old (average age is 45-50 years old), and are
mostly Chenin Blanc (2.7ha), with the rest being Cabernet Franc (1.3ha), plus a touch of Grolleau. Their philosophy is to work meticulously in the
vineyard, carrying out much of the work by hand with the help of a horse. Harvesting is also by hand, and Aymeric favors minimal interventions in
winemaking, with no additions of enzymes or cultured yeasts. The wines are raised in old (4-8 years), 400L barrels, and get just a small dose of SO2
at bottling. These are wines of purity and elegance, with a fresh structure imparted by the limestone soils. Although the appellation may be new,
Aymeric and Mélanie are already showing that the terroir of Puy-Notre-Dame has something special to say.
Domaine Guion
There are few properties in France that can boast such a great pioneering legacy in organic farming as Domaine Guion. In the 1950’s, the Guion
family established their farm in the heart of the Bourgueil appellation, a stone’s throw from the banks of the Loire River. Since it was a polycultural
estate, the family was able to live almost entirely off the land. By 1965, they began farming organically, with a holistic understanding of its effects far
ahead of their time. Since taking the reins from his father in 1990, Stéphane Guion has a put a much greater emphasis on viticulture, managing 8.5ha
of land. Quiet and curious, he is a well-respected member of the vigneron community in Bourgueil and is often consulted by other growers eager to
adopt organic farming practices. While Stéphane rarely appears at tastings and trade shows, it is clear that the extra time in the vineyards and cellars
is well spent. Situated on meticulously cultivated clay and limestone soils, the Guions’ vineyards range from 10-80 years old, with the younger vines
designated for the “Cuvée Domaine” and the older for the “Cuvée Prestige”. Stéphane prunes the buds rather than clusters to achieve a judicious
yield and hand harvests all of his fruit. In the cellar, he only employs native yeasts and allows a moderate maceration of the grapes. Once the bottles
are ready for aging, they are stored in a large cave shared with six other families that once served as a historic Resistance hideout during World War
II. Rustic, focused, and lively, with fresh acidity and minerality, the wines of Domaine Guion are known for their fine tannins, great aging potential, and
terrific price.
Domaine Tardieux-Gal
As a teenager, Simon Tardieux began working in the vines of the influential organic domaine of Clos Roche Blanche. After university and a short stint as
a social worker, Simon decided to return to his hometown of Thésée and get back to his true calling: working outside in the vines. The only problem was
that he didn’t have any vineyards. So, in 2009, Simon teamed up with his neighbor, Alain Courtault, who has long been farming organically (Alain was the
third producer in the region to practice organic viticulture, starting back in 1998), but was still selling most of his harvest off to the local coop. Together,
they created a range of simple, eminently drinkable wines that showcase the best of French farming and winemaking. Simon took over the domaine
gradually, mentored along the way by Alain as he prepared for his retirement. Fruit is exclusively hand-harvested (a true rarity in the region), all
fermentations are with native yeast, and no oak is used for élevage. The work in the vineyards goes far beyond following the rules of organic farming.
Every decision Simon makes is the result of thoughtful deliberations and an effort to promote a local 'paysan' culture between local farmers and
winemakers. Simon helps maintain a collective compost pile, organizes local fairs for organic winemakers, and works with a local photographer to
document the year-round effort of life in the vineyards. In 2020, Alain finally decided to retire, so local vineyard worker Jérôme Gal joined Simon as a
partner, renaming the domaine Tardieux-Gal.
Mikaël Bouges
Mikaël Bouges works a small, 8ha estate in the village of Faverolles-sur-Cher in Touraine. For years, he labored on his father's estate in a neighboring
village, but after his father retired, Mikaël could not afford to buy his father's share and was forced to look for new vineyard sites to establish his own
domaine. With the help of Catherine and Didier Barouillet of Clos Roche Blanche, Mikaël managed to acquire his current parcels of Côt, Sauvignon Blanc,
Menu Pineau, and Chenin. Mikaël's father worked organically as far back as the early '90s, so a thoughtful approach in the vineyard and the cellar has
always been essential. Today, the vines are farmed organically, and Mikaël seeks to express the varied alluvial soil types of the Cher valley by making
single varietal wines from each of his individual parcels. In the cellar, the wines ferment spontaneously and are not filtered or fined with a small amount
of sulfur used only at bottling. The resulting wines are profoundly mineral and represent a real sense of place, classical in their expression with incredible
purity and plenty of age-worthiness.
Loire – Centre
Georges Millérioux
Nicolas Millérioux is part of a contingent of young French vignerons who have traveled enough to see how the world's top appellations are going
retrograde – returning to the best lo-fi practices of the past – and has now brought these techniques to his family's vineyards in Sancerre at Domaine
Georges Millérioux. Located in the hamlet of Amigny, just west of the village of Sancerre and south of Chavignol, the Millérioux's have worked the land
here for three generations, eventually expanding to the 15ha they farm today. Amigny is known for its chalky soils, and 95% of the Millérioux's holdings
come from a mix of the classic limestone terroirs of the region: "Caillotes" (a hard, shallow limestone full of stones) and "Terres Blanches" (a softer
Kimmeridgian marl). Nico returned to the family domaine in 2008 and immediately stopped using herbicides and began replanting some vines using
massale selection, which almost never happens with Sauvignon Blanc. Today, the work in the vineyards is completely organic (with certification coming)
and the soils are worked manually. In the cellar, all of the wines are allowed to ferment naturally and extended lees-aging is used to enrich the wines,
which allows for minimal sulfur additions only at racking and bottling. Nico's goal is to define how Sancerre might have tasted earlier in the 20th century,
before modern vine-clone monotony and industrial practices in the vineyards and cellar, and if his early work is any indication, he will surely be leading
the charge as part of Sancerre’s new generation.
Alsace
Marc Tempé
Based in the small town of Zellenberg (population 300), Marc Tempé unapologetically crafts some of the most nuanced, terroir-expressive wines in
Alsace. The domaine was started in 1993 when Marc and his wife, Anne-Marie, combined vineyard holdings from both of their families, forming the
8.5ha of the domaine today. Initially working as a lab technician and vineyard expert for the INAO, Marc used his experience to immediately convert
the vines to biodynamics and has been an ardent practitioner since. After harvesting by hand, the fruit is pressed off extremely slowly, which helps
keep the natural acidity much higher than many in the region. Depending on the vineyard size, quality, or grape variety, fermentation occurs in either
old foudres or Burgundy barrels, and always with native yeast. In fact, when additional barrels are needed, Marc will only buy from growers who also
work biodynamically. The wines are then allowed to find their own balance, resting on their lees in barrel for a minimum of two years (some of the
Grand Crus age for nearly four years). Not only does Marc believe this helps emphasize terroir, but it also helps him keep sulfur levels as low as
possible. At bottling, there is no fining, and filtering only if necessary
Burgundy – Yonne
Domaine Dame Jeanne
Jeanne Piollot grew up at the southern edge of Champagne in the Aube, closer to Burgundy than to the Côte des Blancs or Reims. After working in the
cellar alongside her parents, Roland Piollot and Dominique Moreau of Champagne Piollot and Marie Courtin, Jeanne decided to create her own domaine
with Dame Jeanne. With the prohibitive rise of Champagne prices over the last generation, acquiring new vines in Champagne seemed elusive, so the
family decided to purchase a small domaine in Molesme, just 20km away over the border into Burgundy. By law, the wines have to be vinified and bottled
in Burgundy, so Jeanne took over the winemaking and farming with her partner, Gennaro de Miccoli. The vineyards of Molesme are well known for
producing excellent sparkling wines, as they are located so close to the border of Champagne. Advice from Champagne was of course quite welcome,
and Jeanne and Gennaro followed similar farming practices used by her family for decades, working organically and with no herbicides, pesticides, or
synthetic chemicals. In the cellar, Jeanne and Gennaro have their own vision for the wines they want to create. They use minimal extraction and sulfur to
craft 'vins de soif' that live somewhere between Chablis and Champagne. Both the sparkling and still wines are equally compelling and are exciting new
additions from this often overlooked and lost corner nestled between two famous regions.
Raphaëlle Guyot
Though originally from the Yonne region in the very northwest of Burgundy, Raphaëlle Guyot didn’t set out to become a vigneronne in her place of birth.
But a chance tasting of Jo Landron’s Muscadet “Amphibolite” while she was attending business school at the age of 18 was the spark that would
eventually take Raphaëlle around the world to learn more about wine before finally landing back home to establish her small domaine. Geographically
closer to the Loire Valley than the Côte d'Or, the Yonne is a region with a long and storied viticultural history, much of which was sadly lost to phylloxera.
Luckily, thanks to young, talented growers like Raphaëlle, this region is being revived and its potential starting to be rediscovered. Raphaëlle began by
interning with producers around France such as Athénaïs de Béru, Cyril Fahl, and Coralie and Damien Delecheneau before going on to receive a degree
in enology at the viticultural school in Beaune. After more apprenticeships with Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-Georges and even spending a harvest
in Georgia, Raphaëlle decided that it was time to create her own domaine, putting down literal and figurative roots in Puisaye-Forterre, located roughly
halfway between Chablis and Sancerre. Here, Raphaëlle endeavors to create not just a viticultural domaine, but a full polyculture farm that integrates
crop diversity and livestock in addition to the vines. Today, Raphaëlle farms just 1.75ha of vines, painstakingly rehabbing old parcels that were once
completely overgrown by wild vegetation and fruit trees. With such a passion for nature, it’s no surprise that soil health is of the utmost importance. The
vines are densely planted, and Raphaëlle believes that organic farming coupled with the use of selected green cover in the vineyards is the key to
producing exceptional quality fruit in the future. In the cellar, a low-intervention approach is used with all native ferments and judicious use of sulfur. In
addition to the small quantities of wine made from her own vines, Raphaëlle also produces a range made from purchased fruit throughout the Auxerrois,
from villages such as Saint-Bris and Irancy. There is an energy, depth, and purity that creates an unmistakable link throughout all of the wines,
highlighting the individual characteristics of each parcel and the deft hand at work to bring these nuances to life.
Burgundy – Mâconnais
Domaine des Gandines
Domaine des Gandines was founded by Joseph Dananchet at the beginning of the 20th century. At the time, it was a polycultural farm like most
others in the area with cows, pigs, sheep, wheat, and a couple of hectares of vines. The property slowly expanded over the years, and in 2003,
Benjamin Dananchet – the 4th Dananchet generation – joined forces with his father, Robert, slowly bringing the vineyard holdings to 13ha they farm
today while also converting to organic viticulture (certified in 2009). Since 2011, they have even begun working biodynamically, which they feel helps
retain higher natural acidities. Benjamin was recently joined by his brother, Florent, who is now assisting in the cellar. Soils are an important focus of
the Dananchets' methodology for the enhancing the vine's nutrition. The family uses no herbicides on the ground, and the soils are plowed to give air
to the microorganisms while eliminating the grass without weed killers. In order to preserve the integrity of the grapes and avoid oxidation, all grapes
are harvested by hand. Grapes are pressed whole-cluster (no destemming) and are allowed to ferment slowly with native yeast, with the only addition
being a small amount of sulfur just before bottling.
Franche-Comté
Pascal Henriot
Historically, the Haute-Saône department of Franche-Comté, located just north of the Jura and east of the Côte d’Or, Burgundy, was an important
wine-producing region with more than 20,000ha of land under vine producing more wine than all of the Jura. Within this region, the tiny commune of
Champlitte was always considered one of the most important, highest quality areas for wine, with over 600ha of vineyards planted on the limestone
slopes at 250m elevation. Unfortunately, during the late 1800’s, disease and the phylloxera crisis decimated nearly all of this vineyard land, and then
the first World War wiped out what little remained. However, the people of Champlitte have always maintained an important wine culture, so much so
that they have held a festival for St. Vincent (the patron saint of winegrowers) every year continuously since 1612. With this spirit, the first vineyards
began to be replanted here in 1970, and the local coop was officially established in 1974. Today, Pascal Henriot remains the only independent
producer in Champlitte. After graduating from viticultural school in Beaune, Pascal returned to Champlitte in 1985, planting 6ha of vineyards divided
into three parcels home to the traditional grapes of the region: Pinot Noir and Gamay for reds, and Auxerrois, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and some
Gewürztraminer for whites. From the start, Pascal has always worked organically (now certified), and his parcels are surrounded by native plant
hedges and walls made from the ancient limestone soils to help encourage biodiversity. All fruit is harvested by hand, and in the cellar, Pascal takes
a natural approach using only native yeast for fermentations (Pascal tells us he, “does not have a budget for enological products,”) and adding only
a minimal amount of sulfur, and in some cases, no sulfur at all. Fermentation and aging generally occur in stainless steel or enamel tanks in an effort
to highlight the minerality and freshness from the local limestone soils. These are traditional wines from another era, and we are very lucky Pascal
has had the vision and determination to keep the viticultural history of this unique place alive.
Isère
Nicolas Gonin
Located between Lyon and Grenoble, the Isère is just now gaining attention for its wines. Part of the attention is because of young growers like
Nicolas, who are seeking out and rediscovering the great, noble grapes of the past that (mostly for political and economic reasons) have been
abandoned in favor of the more well-known grapes of France. Nicolas discovered the 'cépages anciens' while working at Domaine Tempier in Bandol,
where he found a book that outlined the great old grapes of all the regions of France. Nicolas was hooked, and he now spends his weekends seeking
out old vineyards in France to find cuttings of these grapes. Nicolas currently owns part of the only 10ha of Persan that exist in the world, and will
soon make wine from grapes like Bia and Mècle de Bourgin. The vineyards are all certified organic, and fermentation and aging are exclusively in
enamel tank in order to give a true, unobstructed taste of these ancient varieties.
Beaujolais
Bernard Vallette
From the deep south of Beaujolais in the village of Lachassagne, where the soils are clay and limestone as opposed to granite, Bernard Vallette is
biodynamically farming 6.5ha of land passed down through his family from his grandparents. The grapes are all hand harvested and fermented
with native yeasts using carbonic maceration and a comparatively lengthy aging in stainless steel. The resulting wines are charming and
immensely drinkable in their youth, but also develop nicely with a few years of age. No additions in the cellar (including sugar) and just a touch of
SO2 at bottling.
Roland Pignard
Hardly a newcomer to winemaking, Roland Pignard took over the family estate in 1977 and immediately turned towards organic practices. In 2004,
he and his wife Joëlle sold off most of the estate, retaining only 4.5ha to concentrate on better farming, and received organic (Ecocert) and then
biodynamic (Demeter) certification. Vineyard treatments rely on biodynamic preparations with minimal copper-sulfate, and all tilling is done by horse-
drawn implements so as to not compact the soil. Picking is done by a crew of 20 (the same pickers each year, which is very important says Roland)
and carbonic macerations are short (only 6 to 12 days depending on the cuvée) as Roland feels that long macerations can result in the development
of undesirable yeasts and bacterias, and gives wines that are too extracted. All the wines are aged in cement cuves (except one cuvée of Morgon
called "Tradition"), and no SO2 is used during fermentation or élevage, with a minimal dose added before bottling, giving a total of about 8-10mg/L.
The resulting wines have subtle, pure fruit with perfect acidity and a pronounced mineral character with graphite, stone and earthy qualities.
Domaine du Chapitre
Frédéric Dorthe runs his family's 20ha of vineyards located on the right bank of the Rhône River in the picturesque town of Saint-Marcel d'Ardèche.
Due to long-standing contracts to sell most of his fruit, Fred's domaine has flown under the radar for a long time. On the bright side, this allows him
to make small amounts of honest, highly-drinkable wines from Southern Rhône grapes fermented and aged in cement with no additions except a
small amount of SO2 at bottling, and sell them for a song.
Four Tuesdays
Some people hesitate to open a great bottle of wine on a weekday. Not us! We decided that Four Tuesdays would give you a great wine for every
night of the week at a fantastic price. Our box contains the equivalent of four 750mL bottles and stays fresh for four weeks once opened. Sourcing
great wine at friendly prices requires a fair amount of time and good luck. It comes down to finding winemakers who strive for quality regardless of
the perceived potential of their wine region or appellation. They stand out from their neighbors by going far beyond what the local winemaking rules
require – better farming, lower yields, and serious, honest winemaking.
Provence
Myrko Tépus
The Haut-Var (otherwise known as the Green Provence) is a part of Provence that is in stark contrast to the crowded beaches of the Côte d’Azur. Here,
the closest turquoise blue water is in the Gorges du Verdon, a steep river canyon that serves as a natural border between the southern Alps and the
beginning of the Mediterranean coast. And it is here in the Coteaux du Verdon that the young vigneron Myrko Tépus decided to lay the foundation for his
small winery. As a kid, Myrko traveled throughout the major wine regions of France with his father (a wine merchant), visiting an array of vignerons and
learning to taste. After a particularly memorable tasting in Hermitage, Myrko decided that he would become a vigneron when he grew up. Myrko learned
about grape growing and winemaking by working at wineries in the Loire Valley (including the likes of Dagueneau), the Lorraine, and Provence.
Eventually, Myrko was able to purchase 11ha of old vines in the southern and northern slopes around the village of Esparron. At around 460m in
elevation, the range of indigenous grape varieties like Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, and Ugni Blanc thrive. Ample sunlight ensures ripening while the
high elevation and mistral wind help to preserve freshness and acidity. The vines had been farmed without chemicals for ten years before Myrko took
them over, and since then, he has continued to work completely organically, with treatments leaning more towards biodynamics to minimize the use of
copper. In the cellar, fermentations occur spontaneously in a mix of stainless steel, cement, and large, used barrel. Depending on the cuvée, aging takes
place partially or entirely in used demi-muid or foudre. Throughout the range of wines, there is a common thread that expresses a place like no other,
seamlessly combining the Provençal ripeness, with a cool, mountain freshness that is entirely unique.
Mas Foulaquier
Winemaker Pierre Jéquier, a native of Switzerland and formerly an architect, created Mas Foulaquier in 1998 following an exhaustive search for his
dream wine estate. Situated in the most northerly corner of Languedoc's most northerly appellation, Pic Saint-Loup, the 8ha of existing vines were at
the time just 8 years old, but happened to be planted on some great terroir. Now, at more than 25 years of age, those vines are the source of a quite
brilliant set of wines. Pierre's wife and fellow winemaker, Blandine Chauchet, joined the team in 2003, bringing with her the ownership of a further 3ha
of 50+ year-old Grenache and Carignan in the lieu-dit of "Les Tonillières". The vines are certified organic, and since 2007, are also certified
biodynamic by Demeter. In the cellar, the wines all are raised in Foulaquier’s signature, low-intervention style – native yeasts, no filtering, and minimal
sulfur added only at bottling.
Roussillon
Domaine Laguerre
A visit to Éric Laguerre in Saint-Martin-de-Fenouillet requires steep climbs through a mountain pass up to the highest vineyards in the Roussillon at
500m. Here, the granite soils, cooler climate, very low yields, and Éric's superb organic farming produce distinctive, balanced wines with bright fruit
and firm acidities. Éric initially learned winemaking with Gérard Gauby at Domaine Gauby and Le Soula, where he also developed a love for organic
and biodynamic viticulture. In 1999, Éric took over the family domaine and immediately began incorporating what he had learned; yields were
reduced dramatically to favor quality over quantity, all chemicals in the vineyards were eliminated (eventually achieving organic certification by
Ecocert), and some biodynamic practices were even incorporated, such as pruning and plowing according to the phases of the moon. The Laguerres
farm a total of 40ha high up in the foothills of the Pyrénées, although much is left to native grasses and flowers, including a flowering bush called
'Ciste' (which the top wines are named after) that helps contribute to biodiversity and wind protection. All fruit is harvested by hand and vinifications
are exclusively with native yeast, yielding a set of wines that are unique in their ability to combine concentration and texture of fruit with balance and
freshness from the granitic minerality.
Bordeaux – Entre-Deux-Mers
Château Farizeau
The Moreau family has been involved in the wine trade in Bordeaux since the early 1800s, initially working as coopers and cellar masters for wineries
throughout the region. In 1911, Maxime Moreau was finally able to purchase a small vineyard of his own in Sadirac, located 20km east of the city of
Bordeaux in the region of Entre-Deux-Mers. The vineyard holdings slowly expanded to the 12ha the family farms today, and in 1980, Maxime's son,
André, and his wife, Nicole, officially founded Château Farizeau and began to vinify their own wines. André's eldest son, Guillaume, eventually joined the
family winery, bringing with him a renewed focus on farming and natural work in the cellar. The Moreau's began by ripping out high-yielding parcels and
replanting them at much higher densities. After experiencing the drought vintages of the 2000s, the family started working the soils by utilizing green
manure and tilling to keep the bases of the vines covered, which they believe is essential to help retain freshness. The Moreau's went on to pursue full
organic certification starting in 2010 (which they received in 2013), all in an attempt to best express the region's blue clay and sandy gravel soils. With all
of the changes in the vineyard, the Moreau's followed up in the cellar as well. Fermentations are with native yeast, and the wines are not moved until the
spring following harvest to avoid oxidation and allow for very low (or, in the case of "Cuvée Max", zero) additions of sulfur before bottling, which follows
the phases of the moon. The results are real Bordeaux wines of terroir with fresh acidities, drinkability, and an underlying complexity that make them
some of the best values in the region.
Southwest
Château La Colombière
Diane and Philippe Cauvin run Château La Colombière in the Fronton AOP of southwest France. After taking over the family domaine in 2005, the
Cauvins have worked tremendously hard to get the vineyards to where they are today and continue to work in a natural direction, favoring quality over
quantity (a rarity in this area). There are a total of 13ha of vines farmed organically (Ecocert certified), and they have even worked biodynamically
since 2010. Most of the plantings are of the local Négrette grape, but there is also some Gamay, Malbec, and Syrah, plus a white grape that is
technically not yet allowed to appear on a label, called Bouysselet. All of the wines come from 15-55 year old vines and ferment in cement or stainless
with no additions other than SO2 at bottling. Always experimenting, the Cauvins have even begun making a pét-nat rosé from Négrette!
Domaine Séailles
Domaine Séailles has been a family-owned estate since 1961 and lies in the commune of Mouchan, located in the heart of Gascony. Farming organically
since 1998, Séailles is one of the leading pioneers of organic viticulture within the region. Their 25ha of vines are located on a single, large limestone
parcel surrounded by forests on all sides. Unusual for the region, the vineyard is planted half to red grapes, primarily Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The
white grapes include the region’s ubiquitous Ugni Blanc (used to produce the traditional spirit of the region, Armagnac-Ténarèze) alongside Sauvignon
Blanc and the rare Sauvignon Gris, which are used for the still wines. The property was originally purchased as a country home by Toulouse-based lawyer
Jean Labérenne, who had the vision to embrace a completely organic approach to growing and production. Jean originally hired local enologist Julien
Franclet to manage the domaine, and many years later, Julien is now a full partner in the property, as well as the vineyard manager and winemaker for
over 20 years.
Germany
Mosel
Julian Haart
Although Julian has the resume most people can only dream of (he has studied with Egon Müller, Klaus Peter Keller and Werner Schönleber; that's like
the German wine equivalent of learning to draw under Picasso, da Vinci, and Ingres), the fact is that this resume is an easy, glossy headline that simplifies
a much more complicated story. We have met few more serious, more thoughtful and detail-oriented growers. Starting with a microscopic 0.25ha plot of
terraced vines in the famous Goldtröpchen vineyard, Julian has finally bought a few more parcels bringing the estate to a little more than 4ha, and this is,
roughly, where Julian wants it to stay. Part of the joy of winemaking for Julian is doing everything at the most human scale. Nearly everything must be
done by hand – most of the vineyards are steep as hell and most of them are terraced. Even walking through them is a bit hazardous. The "terroir wines"
are those that ferment naturally, finding their own balance that is nearly always dry tasting (though the wines might have a little more sugar than would
allow them to be legally called “trocken"). From here, we progress up the Burgundian ladder, from “Moselle” (appellation level), “Piesporter” (village-level),
up to the grand cru, single-vineyard bottlings “Goldtröpfchen” and “Ohligsberg.” The overall style is clearly a type of Mosel-hommage to Keller. The wines
showcase a glossy, super-pure fruit that shrieks across the palate with a pushing, sharply delineated acidity. Pulverized slate, polished to a fine dust,
coats everything. These are Moselle wines of consequence, well worth the perhaps difficult time you’ll have actually trying to find a bottle.
Hild
You’ve probably never heard of the “upper Mosel". I really hadn’t either, aside from mildly derogatory remarks made in passing. Some of this derision
is probably deserved: the upper Mosel has had a long tradition of selling grapes en masse to cooperatives interested in high yields, irrespective of
quality. However, this is also a fascinating place, a vision of the Mosel that has nothing to do with Riesling or slate. Here we find limestone (this is the
beginning of the Paris Basin, the geological reality that informs places like Chablis and Sancerre) and a winemaking culture based on one of Europe’s
oldest grapes: Elbling. Matthias Hild farms 5ha in the upper Mosel doing something that makes almost zero financial sense: saving old, terraced
parcels of Elbling. In this area, however, it’s important to understand Elbling is something of a religion. It’s a culture, a regional dialect that is spoken
through this wine of rigorous purity, of joyous simplicity, of toothsome acidity. Even at its best, Elbling is not a grape of “greatness” as much as it is a
grape of refreshment and honesty and conviviality. The comparisons are plenty, though none of them are quite right: If Riesling is Pinot Noir, then
Elbling is Gamay. If Riesling is Chenin Blanc, then Elbling is Muscadet. You get the idea. The joy of Elbling is its raucous acidity, the vigor and energy,
the fact that it is so low in alcohol you could probably drink a bottle and still operate heavy machinery.
Saar
Hofgut Falkenstein
The Weber family farms about 13ha of mainly old Riesling vines in a side valley of the Saar known as Tälchen (“little valley”). In 1985, Erich Weber and
his wife, Marita, built up the property of the then-dilapidated Falkensteinerhof (established in 1901) from scratch. Today, Erich is Joined by his middle
son, Johannes, to produce some of the most authentic wines in the Saar. The Weber's top vineyard sites are located on various south-facing hillsides of
primarily iron-rich gray slate with some quartz, including the highly prized sites of Niedermenniger Herrenberg, Niedermenniger Sonnenberg, Krettnacher
Altenberg, and the once legendary Euchariusberg. The average age of their vines is between 40-50 years old, and the oldest are more than 90 years old
with over 1ha of ungrafted vines. The Webers work close to organic with no herbicides and a healthy cover crop and believe in low yields (one flat cane
per vine). All the grapes are hand-harvested and whole Riesling grapes are gently pressed in a pneumatic press for two to three hours. The musts flow
via gravity into the cellar below for a natural sedimentation overnight before being vinified exclusively with ambient yeasts in 1,000-liter ancient oak Fuder
casks and a couple of 500-liter Halbfuder, the traditional fermenting and aging vessels for Mosel wine. The Webers like to bottle each Fuder separately,
which is unheard of today, even though it was the standard in old times. Therefore, they can have two or more casks from the same vineyard site and
with the same Prädikat. However, these wines will have different AP numbers because they come from different parcels of the same vineyard site and
were fermented, aged, and bottled separately. All of this work results in an array of green-tinted, light-bodied, high-acid, unchaptalized dry (trocken),
off-dry (feinherb), and fruity Saar wines, all of which are true cask-by-cask bottlings.
Rheingau
J.B. Becker
These wines taste like nothing else coming out of the Rheingau (or most anywhere for that matter) and Hans-Josef Becker just doesn’t give a fuck.
We struggled with a more elegant way of introducing this estate, some poignant lines describing the dirty-fingered, weathered-skin, mess-of-a-tasting-
room aesthetic of J.B. Becker. But at the heart of the matter, "HaJo", as his friends call him, will get up in the morning, go into his vineyards, and make
the kinds of wines he wants to make. And that’s about it. They are unflaggingly honest and present a vocabulary that few white wines can match: dried
earth and rocks, herbs, something vaguely subterranean, a savory, briny, smoky atmosphere that slowly reveals fine layers of bright citrus. They flaunt
a rather prominent acidity that recalls the more nervy wines of the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer, though there is a weight, a density that speaks of the
Rheingau. They seem to have more to do with great, aged Chablis than with what we often think of as German Riesling. If there is any grand system
here, it is inscrutable. Consider, on the one hand, that Becker (and his father before him) has worked the vineyards organically for many, many years
(they finally became certified in 2011). On the other hand, this rather important fact is mentioned exactly nowhere so far as I can tell. Becker believes
the Rheingau has been particularly devastated by the decades of commercial agriculture; he says it took him many years to bring back to life a
healthy, diverse population of yeasts in the vineyards and the cellars. Thus, he is a strong advocate of wild yeast fermentations. This practice puts the
graying, wild statesman of German winemaking right next to the young German hipster-growers, as obsessed with natural yeasts as anything else. On
the other hand, since vintage 2003, Becker has bottled his wine with glass closures, which of course alienates him from this same population. Becker
prefers to use pressurized tanks for fermentation, relishing a quick, warm fermentation (a similar method is used at places like J.J. Prüm, Keller, etc).
Then he racks the juice into the traditional barrels of the Rheingau for at least two years of barrel age before bottling. Even with these very long
élevages, Becker seems to release wines willy-nilly – he keeps older vintages around because, in a way, the wines demand it. The wines all have
enormous aging potential, but even a couple of years in bottle unlocks their soul. These are Rieslings that make no concessions to modernity or to
fashion and are defiantly old school. They are living fossils, the likes of which we may never see again.
Pfalz
Brand
Young brothers Daniel and Jonas Brand (both in their twenties) recently took over their family’s century-old estate, and are quickly breathing new life
into this former workhorse of the Northern Pfalz. The kids are smart, eager, and dialed into the growing natural wine scene both in Germany and in
neighboring France. They’re just starting to make waves –– converting all their viticulture to organic (certified as of 2015) and are experimenting like
crazy in the cellar. They have a pét-nat that’s so popular it sells out before they’ve even made it, and they make the best organic, entry-level liters of
dry Riesling and Weissburgunder you’ll ever find. The Nordpfalz borders the Rheinessen (their village is closer to Keller’s than to anybody famous in
the Pfalz), and that airy but firm sensibility informs these bright and mineral-laden wines.
Franken
Vetter
Stefan Vetter is f-ing punk rock. He has done nothing that has even the slightest commercial logic to it. His old friend Andreas Adam (of the celebrated
Mosel estate A.J. Adam) must shake his head, watching Stefan, like a wild hermit, run himself up into the terraced vineyards of Franconia. Yet from a
scant few hectares of old terraced vineyards, Stefan is redefining what Sylvaner can be. These are quite simply the greatest Sylvaners I’ve ever
tasted, from anywhere, ever. Stefan is at the forefront of the natural wine movement in Germany. As such, he farms both organically and
biodynamically, working only old vines in steep, terraced sites. Pressing is done gently and can take four to six hours. The juice may see a short bit of
skin contact, but for the most part it is just moved directly into old barrels. Stefan has bought 300 and 600-liter barrels from Stockinger. During the
élevage, the wine is topped off but that’s about it. The wines are bottled without fining or filtering.
Shelter Winery
Hans-Bert Espe and Silke Wolf farm roughly 5ha in the not-so-famous region of Baden. Let’s go ahead and equate not-so-famous with not-so-ripe
and we get, immediately, a sense of the philosophy here. There are lots of words we would use to describe the bulldozer-Pinots we’ve tasted from
Baden over the years; delicacy would not be one of them. Until we tasted with Hans-Bert and Silke. This husband-and-wife team has spent the last
decade in the nooks and crannies of the wine-geek world, slowly building a reputation for pristine, delicate Pinot Noirs from Baden (there, we’ve used
the word). You might call them understated, though the rather petite structure and lively animation of the wines gives way to a mid-palate that is
awash with sweet perfumed fruit, transparent and mineral. In style, sensibility and size, they remind us quite a bit of Weiser-Künstler in the Mosel
(indeed they are all friends) – except this is Pinot Noir, from Baden. You may have to remind yourself of this when you’re tasting the wines.
Württemberg
Roterfaden
About an hour northwest of Stuttgart, the river Enz does that meandering thing rivers do to create some of the most dramatic amphitheaters of vines
and terraces outside of the Mosel. I’d say that this village of Rosswag was “forgotten,” but I can’t find any literature suggesting it’s ever really registered
on the wine map to begin with, which is startling if for no other reason than the in-your-face beauty and drama of this place. Lemberger is king here
(Blaufränkisch is what it’s called in Austria); old-vine Lemberger planted for decades (centuries?) on shell limestone at about 1,000 feet above sea level.
Nearly everyone here has at least a few rows of vines, though most are “hobby farmers,” people who love their vines but don’t have that much time for
them, sending 99% of the fruit to the local coop for humble, village wines. Olympia and Hannes of Roterfaden are the other 1%. Hannes was born here
in Rosswag, where his family has a farm with cereal fields, cattle, and, of course, some vines. He studied in Geisenheim and there met Olympia, a Greek
girl who had come to Germany to study viticulture and winemaking. They became a thing and proceeded to travel the world, looking for the perfect place
to start a small winery, a place where they both could work in the vineyards, work together in the cellars, and spend time in their own garden. They
started Roterfaden in 2014, with half a hectare of Lemberger from a parcel planted by Hannes’ grandfather. They have now grown to about 4ha and
farm a little bit of Pinot Noir and Riesling along with the Lemberger. There isn’t any preconceived notion of what wine from Rosswag should be, so
Hannes and Olympia are free to work exactly as they want. Yes, they are working organic; they incorporate many tenants of biodynamics, making their
own teas and extracts. Everything is done by hand. The cellar is minimalistic, scarcely larger than your average mechanics garage – a few steel tanks,
but mostly wooden barrels of various sizes. Fermentations are all natural. The wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered with lower levels of sulfur. Already,
only a few years into their work, the very serious potential of this place is beginning to show.
Austria
Niederösterreich
Oppenauer
Weingut Oppenauer is committed to making wines that bring people together, a notion that necessarily implies affordability. But they were also the first
winery in the village of Poysdorf in the Weinviertal to convert to organics. In 2003, Rainer Oppenauer's father decided to convert all their land to organic
farming, including the 85ha dedicated to other (mainly winter) crops like wheat, rye, spelt, and fruit trees. The farm has been in the family for over 200
years but it wasn't until the 1950s when they first started bottling wine with the Oppenauer name. At first, the neighbors couldn’t understand the change
to organics, but today, there are now two other certified organic vineyards in Poysdorf, and some others seem to have largely given up on herbicides.
Clearly, the Oppenauer family wants their work to go beyond organics and encompass a larger notion of ecology, from making their own compost right
down to the grapeseed oil that they’ve been producing since 2010.
Italy
Piemonte
Alberto Oggero
Originally from Canale, Alberto Oggero spent his childhood following his grandfather, Sandro, through the family vineyards, spending as much time as
possible among the vines. Alberto's parents never went into wine, so when Sandro sadly passed away in 1999, Alberto, who had just finished a degree in
enology in Alba, decided to return home and take over the family's 2ha of vineyards. Alberto started by restoring the family's home and cellar in the village
of Santo Stefano Roero entirely by hand. After ten years of experimenting in the vineyards and cellar, Alberto finally bottled his first wine in 2009. Since
then, he has been able to reclaim more old vineyards, bringing the total up to 4.2ha today. Farming is certified organic, and Alberto works tirelessly in the
vineyards to ensure the purity of the fruit to best express the sandy limestone soils of the region. In the cellar, only native yeasts are used, and there is no
fining or filtration. The goal is to create wines that combine drinkability with a strong expression of terroir, savory and soulful renditions of Arneis and
Nebbiolo unique to the Roero.
Lapo Berti
Lapo Berti is an obsessive and a purist. His self-professed "great passion for wine" began when he was in his early twenties and would lead him on a
twenty-year journey to wine regions worldwide, seeking out specific producers to work with and learn from. These travels helped him hone his talents and
perfect his craft, giving him the skills that he puts into practice today in Barolo making his eponymous wines. Lapo's career began in his native Tuscany,
working first with Selvapiana before moving to Piedmont, where he worked full-time as the winemaker at Enzo Boglietti. Here, he developed his love for
Nebbiolo and forged meaningful friendships that continue to this day. His itinerant past included stints with producers like Roberto Voerzio (Barolo),
Nicolas Potel and Michel Picard (Burgundy), and Cameron (Oregon), while also working all over Australia between seasons, most notably with Stephen
Pannell in McLaren Vale. Working with these famously demanding producers fundamentally influenced Lapo's precise habits and perfectionist methods.
After so many experiences in so many places, Lapo finally decided to settle down in Piedmont in 2012 to start his own project. He currently leases parcels
in the "Fossati" and "Bricco Rocca" MGAs in La Morra that he meticulously farms himself. The vineyards are cultivated organically, and Lapo attaches
great importance to building healthy soils that house various plants, insects, and other little helpers that create a living, ecologically balanced environment
for the vines. Lapo's vinification methods are equally meticulous. Hand-harvested grapes are fully destemmed before crushing. Fermentations are long
and rely solely on indigenous yeasts, taking place partially in stainless steel tanks and partially in open, neutral demi-muid barrels, both without
temperature control. All of the wines are made without fining agents or filtration, and sulfites are kept to a minimum with only minuscule amounts added
to the reds. His ambition is to make Nebbiolo in the most natural way possible, true to the characteristics of the grape, the vineyard, and the vintage, and
that goal is beautifully executed in these wines.
M. Sokolin
After working as a sommelier in San Francisco at Michael Mina and Acquarello, Mitchell Sokolin decided to spend the last several years traveling the
globe learning to make in both hemispheres, at places like Mac Forbes in Australia. Finally, for his first solo project, he settled down in the southern
part of Castilla y León in Sierra de Salamanca. Always searching for new and interesting opportunities, Mitchell began sniffing around the Langhe
for his second project. Inspired by producers like Vajra, Olek Bondonio, Chionetti, and Abonna, Mitchell decided to search out interesting parcels of
Dolcetto, convinced that in the right hands, it can producer floral, perfumed wines full of interest and character. He eventually found the right site, a
beautiful north-facing slope on white soils, just on the Dogliani side of Monforte. The fruit was fermented in stainless steel with almost half as whole
bunches and the rest destemmed on top. After two weeks in tank, it was pressed off into old 300L barrels to finish fermentation. The wine made it to
bottle with no fining, no filtration, and no additions besides SO2.
Prima Piuma
Prima Piuma is a low intervention, organic line of wines created by Summer Wolff in collaboration with Azienda Agricola Gaia born out of the need for fun,
fresh, real wines priced for everyday drinking. Gaia is a beautiful, organic estate located just two hills over from Cascina Iuli (where Summer and her
husband, Fabrizio Iuli, reside) in the Monferrato. While they have 43ha of land (approximately half of which is under vine and the rest left for orchards to
create a true polyculture), what they didn’t have was a market for all of their gorgeous, organic fruit. Summer and Fabrizio have been renting vineyards
from them for almost a decade now, and in recent years they've started working more closely with their oenologist, Gianluca Ravizza, on different projects
and labels. Prima Piuma is a joint effort between Gianluca and Summer in winemaking, aging, and bottling. Just like organic food should be available to
everyone, so should organic wine. Hence, the birth of Prima Piuma... "Slow fashion" wine for all!
Veneto
Bella Vita
While our focus is on small growers that work well in the vineyard and the cellar, we also understand the realities and needs of our customers. So,
we found a Pinot Grigio from Treviso that fits in qualitatively with our portfolio, and that we feel good about offering at a great price. Made by the third
generation, sibling winemaking team of Annalisa, Alessandro, Carlo, and Luca Botter (also responsible for Bella Vita Montepulciano from their
holdings in Abruzzo).
Giol
While our focus is on small growers that work well in the vineyard and the cellar, we also understand the realities and needs of our customers. So, we
found a Prosecco that fits in qualitatively with our portfolio, and that we feel good about offering at a great price. Located in San Polo di Piave, Tenuta
Giol has been around since 1427 and began its organic conversion in the 1980s. Today, the estate is fully certified organic, and work in the cellar is low-
tech including low (to no) additions of sulfur. Clean, crisp, lively bubbles that are an amazing value and will please even the biggest wine geeks!
Emilia-Romagna
Fangareggi
Vitivinicola Fangareggi was officially founded in 2005 by Giuseppe Fangareggi, but the tradition of growing Lambrusco grapes has been in the
Fangareggi family since the 1800s. Today, Giuseppe's son, Matteo, runs the farm along with his mother, Margherita, and his uncle, Roberto. Giuseppe
and Roberto mainly take care of the vineyards, Margarita takes care of reception, and Matteo takes care of everything else, including the winemaking.
Their wines are produced only from the family's 24ha of vineyards spread across eight parcels in the provinces of Reggio Emilia and Modena. Grapes
are pruned and harvested by hand and the vineyards are practicing organic with an advanced integrated pest management protocol, without the use of
chemical herbicides or fungicides, using mechanical weeding, and organic fertilizers. In the cellar, Matteo uses only indigenous yeasts for primary
fermentation to produce six types of sparkling wines, both red and white, with a focus on the production of Lambrusco. These are authentic and joyful
wines, perfect with the meats and cheeses Emilia is known for.
Toscana
Anima Mundi
Marta Sierota is the vigneronne behind Podere Anima Mundi. After growing up in Poland and France, Marta went on to receive her Ph.D. in Philosophy
and taught for several years at a university. Here, she developed an interest in wine, eventually taking courses in winemaking, wine tasting, and
biodynamic farming, as well as completing studies in wine management. In 2008, Marta moved her family to Tuscany in the small village of Usigliano,
nestled in the heart of the Pisan hills. Her new home was surrounded by many beautiful but abandoned vineyards, which eventually inspired Marta to
start her own wine project here. Since the beginning, Marta has believed that wine is a product of nature, so she decided to follow the rules of
biodynamics at all steps of viticulture and vinification. The unique positioning of her estate means the vineyards benefit from the influence of both the
'tramontana' and the 'libeccio' winds, bringing cooling and aeration from the mountains and the sea and allowing her to cultivate vines with a non-
interventionist approach. Marta’s wines are influenced by her French origins, believing that the terroir is the most important factor. To this end, she has
chosen to produce only mono-varietal wines, which she considers the best way to express her unique terroir through the lens of a particular grape. In the
cellar, fermentations are carried out spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel and without temperature control. The wines are not fined or
filtered, and minimum doses of sulfites are used only at bottling.
San Donatino
In 1971, Léo Férre – the well-known French singer and poet – and his wife, Maria Cristina Diaz, bought a farm in the heart of Chianti Classico and
relocated their family to Tuscany. From the start, the Ferré family took on the task of putting the vineyards and the approximately 5,000 olive trees back
in shape and making them productive. The first harvests were sold in bulk until the early 1990s when the family decided to start making and bottling their
own wines. Maria Cristina and her children still live at the farm today, and her son, Mathieu (Math), manages all aspects of the property, including the
vineyards, winemaking, olive oil production, an agriturismo, and a craft brewery. The estate is located in the village of Castellina in Chianti in the province
of Siena, overlooking the Val d’Elsa at an altitude of 420m and situated in the Chianti hills, a historic area known for its superior wines and marly soils.
The 16ha of vineyards on the property have been farmed biodynamically since 2005 and they received organic certification in 2018. Mathieu aims to
make wines that speak of the place, and most importantly, of the vintage. Fermentation occurs spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, macerations are
prolonged, and the wines remain sur lie for several months. Fermentations are carried out in stainless steel, as is élevage for most of the wines, while the
crus are aged in wood. The wines are not fined or filtered and small amounts of sulfites are used only at bottling.
Mormaj
Francesco Di Gregorio and Andrea Calloni are the friends and business partners behind Mormaj. Founded in 2015, the company was born from their
desire to organically produce the two typical products of Abruzzo: wine and extra virgin olive oil. Their 10ha estate, named Tocco d’ Italy, is located in the
commune of Tocco da Casauria in the province of Pescara. The property is nestled in the hills of the nearby mountains, Monte Morrone on one side and
the Majella on the other, which give the wine its name. The vineyards are highly influenced by their proximity to the sea, which is only 30km away, and by
the surrounding mountains, whose gorges bring fresh, cooling winds. On the property, 5ha are dedicated to growing 1,000 olive trees that are all over
100 years old, and the remaining 5ha are committed to growing Montepulciano, Trebbiano, and Pecorino grapes. From the beginning, their priority was
to make authentic products with minimal intervention and to farm organically, for which they received certification in 2015. Grapes are all hand-harvested
and fermentations are carried out spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel. They make still, varietal wines as well as small amounts of
'metodo ancestrale' sparkling wines, none of which are fined or filtered and only receive minimal doses of sulfur.
Campania
Giovanni Iannucci
Giovanni Iannucci is a young "garagiste" making artisanal wines in Guardia Sanframondi, a town nestled in the hills of Sannio Benevento in northern
Campania. Fueled by memories of helping his father, Dante, with the harvest and sale of grapes to the local cooperative, Giovanni decided to return to
his hometown in 2012 to take over the 2ha of family vineyards and convert the garage into a small and tidy cellar. Since the beginning, Giovanni has
chosen to cultivate his vines using natural methods, like his grandparents did, without chemical or toxic agents and only green manure as fertilizer. The
vines are farmed organically with particular attention to keep copper and sulfur use to a minimum, using extracts of natural substances such as algae and
propolis instead to help the vines stimulate their natural self-defense against diseases. Vineyards are split between the regions of Guardia Sanframondi
and Castelvenere in the northeast of Campania on the border of Molise. Giovanni works with the traditional local varieties of Falanghina, Barbera del
Sannio (genetically distinct from the Barbera found in Piemonte), and Trebbiano Toscano, all planted at 150-380m elevation in predominantly clay-
limestone and tuffaceous soils. The wines are made following a natural and non-invasive style. Grapes are hand-harvested, and vinifications are solely
with native yeast with a brief maceration on the skins for the white varieties. No enological products are used except small quantities of SO2, and there is
no fining or filtration. The result is a set of fresh yet profound wines with a strong territorial imprint reflecting the traditions of the past.
Sicilia
Alcesti
Gianfranco Palladino and family are making honest, pure wines from local grapes in the Marsala region of Sicily. Certified organic farming and hand-
harvesting in a region and price-point that isn’t always the norm. Our idea of fresh, Sicilian wines ready to drink; both are fermented and aged in
stainless steel.
Bodegas Corisca
Natalia Rodriguez is one of the most focused producers of Albariño in all of Galicia, as well as a trailblazer. Bodegas Corisca was founded in 2006 and
certified organic in 2010, the first in Rías Baixas. Before establishing Corisca, Natalia’s father José Maria (who is 82 years old and still goes to the
vineyard every day) sold his grapes to neighbors in the Condado do Tea, the southernmost subzone of Rías Baixas where Galicia meets Portugal. The
Atlantic coast of Galicia is a seriously difficult place to farm organically, and Natalia is keen to point out that it is always a challenge despite the slightly
drier, more inland zone where she farms (relative to literally coastal vineyards, where organic farming is often not possible at all). Work in the vineyards
is rigorous and natural, incorporating sheep manure and maintaining year-round cover crops, with fortifying applications of Natalia’s homemade infusions
of comfrey, willow, and garlic, in addition to standard topical copper and sulfur treatments. All of this effort is in the pursuit of perfecting the balance of
one wine, Corisca Albariño, made from two vineyards in Tui: her father’s beloved "Finca Muiño", where 35-year-old Albariño vines sprawl overhead in
the traditional parral system, in addition to a vineyard planted in 2010 next to the winery. In the winery, vinification is simple and unobtrusive. The grapes
are destemmed and pressed with a pneumatic press, after which the must undergoes a cold settling. Native yeast fermentation with pied de cuve lasts
1-2 months, and the wine remains on the finest lees for a minimum of 3 months, after which the tanks are blended and bottled to order.
La Milla
Rías Baixas represents the lowlands of Galicia, with an elevation generally less than 300m near the sea and the lower reaches of the rivers, giving
the region a distinct Atlantic influence with mild temperatures and high rainfall. Here, Albariño finds its natural habitat. La Milla is a cuvée made in
collaboration with third generation winegrower and winemaker Angel Parada. It is sourced from an organically and biodynamically farmed plot of old
vines (up to 80 years old) in the sandy soils of the Soutomaior subzone of Rías Baixas. After hand harvesting, spontaneous fermentation and aging
occur entirely in stainless steel tanks.
Pago Cativo
The Ribeiro DO is located in southern Galicia in the confluence of the valleys formed by the Miño, Avia, and Arnoia rivers. These valleys protect the
region from Atlantic squalls, providing an Oceanic-Mediterranean transitional climate that allows fruit to ripen while preserving acidity and freshness of
aromas. Ribeiro is also home to a slew of traditional, indigenous varieties such as Brancellao, Caiño Tinto and Blanco, Souson, Treixadura, and more,
which yield incomparable wines with strong personalities. Pago Cativo is made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with winemaker Álvaro
Bueno. Fruit is sourced from biodynamically farmed vineyards up to 70 years old on the classic granite and slate soils of the region. Only indigenous
varieties are used, and the wines are fermented with native yeast in stainless steel.
La Rioja
Siete
Siete Rioja comes from a second generation family farm using environmentally friendly methods for producing the best wines. Vineyards are divided
among several municipalities – Calahorra, Andosilla, and San Adrián – all within Rioja Baja. The soils are diverse, with limestone dominating, but also
sand, clay, and gravel. Siete is a wine made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with brothers Andrés and Ramón Serrano, pioneers in
organic farming in Rioja Baja. Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Mazuelo are each vinified separately in stainless steel before final blending.
Tentenublo
Roberto Oliván and his wife, Leyre Ruiz, of Tentenublo make honoring tradition look radical. A fourth-generation winegrower, Roberto farms 10ha
composed of 30 parcels of vines in and around his home village of Viñaspre in the Basque part of Rioja – the Rioja Alavesa. The vineyards of Viñaspre
contain a traditional mix of local red and white grapes: Tempranillo, Garnacha, Malvasía Riojana, Jaén Blanca, Viura, and more, planted on some of
Rioja’s most interesting terroirs. Viñaspre sits high in the rugged foothills abutting the Sierra de Cantabria mountain range and was historically an
important village in the wine trade due to its location on the road to Bilbao. The vineyards profit from extra altitude (up to 700m) and compelling geology
but are exposed to the winds, rains, and extreme conditions typical of mountain viticultural zones ('Tentenublo' is the local name for the ringing of bells
meant to ward off hail storms). At Tentenublo, all parcels are farmed organically and vinified separately. The red wines always contain white grapes,
which Roberto says adds a "chaotic" sensation to the center of the palate. The white wines are intricate, mineral-driven blends that offer fans of complex,
savory whites a whole new set of sensations. For wine lovers reared on the mature, long-aged Riojas that dominate both the commercial market and
popular understanding of the category, Tentenublo's take on Rioja feels rebellious. Returning the focus to the soil, vinifying red and white grapes together
by parcel and terroir, and bottling taut, energetic wines in place of the famous oxygen and oak-inflected blends that embody Rioja's style today presents a
sizable risk to a small family winery. These are unique and personal wines that channel the energy and history of the land into long, laser-focused wines
full of bright fruit, fresh earth, and pulsating mineral power.
Name
g ra l
Vintage Grapes Size Pack Importer SLO Code
Naipes Navarra Blanco "Mus" 2019 Garnacha Blanca 750mL 12 VDT 614898
Naipes Navarra Tinto "Brisca" 2019 Garnacha Tinta 750mL 12 VDT 614897
Verasol
The region of Navarra sits just northeast of the bordering Rioja. It is a region that enjoys three distinct climate influences – Atlantic, Continental, and
Mediteranean – as well as a myriad of soil types and elevations. This makes Navarra one of the most interesting regions for winegrowing in all of
Spain. The fruit for this cuvée is sourced from organically farmed vines around the town of Olite, a winemaking town in the Ribera Alta subzone of
Navarra. Due to its limestone sub-soils, high elevation, and accompanying fluctuations between daytime and nighttime temperatures, this is an area
known to produce excellent Tempranillo and Garnacha based wines. Verasol is a cuvée made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with
Charo Moriones, a vintner with deep roots and intimate knowledge of the Navarra region. Fermented and raised in old cement vats. Bottled unfiltered.
Castilla y León
Esmeralda García
After a few stints with leading winemakers around Spain, young winemaker Esmeralda García returned to her hometown of Santiuste de San Juan
Bautista in Rueda to tend to her family’s old Verdejo vineyards. Here, the dry, sandy soils have allowed the vines to thrive on their original rootstocks,
the youngest of which are around 130 years old and the oldest going well above 200 years old. Esmeralda farms four sites that all vary in altitude and
soil composition, allowing her to bottle several cuvées with strikingly different profiles. The arid climate enables her to work without pesticides or chemical
additives, and in the cellar, fermentations are spontaneous with indigenous yeasts and there are no other additions. As Rueda continues to modernize
and adapt to international palates, the riveting wines from Esmeralda’s ancient Verdejo vineyards become of even greater historical importance.
M. Sokolin
After working as a sommelier in San Francisco at Michael Mina and Acquarello, Mitchell Sokolin decided to spend the last several years traveling the
globe learning to make in both hemispheres, at places like Mac Forbes in Australia. Finally, for his first solo project, he has settled down in the
southern part of Castilla y León in Sierra de Salamanca. The grapes for this wine come from a vineyard planted in 2004 as part of research
collaboration with the regional government. Called "La Espaldera" ('trellis' in English), it represents the most comprehensive collection of the known
clones of Rufete. While the trellised, cordon-pruned vines are a departure from the more traditional bush vines of the region, it is tightly planted on a
steep WNW-facing slope of decomposed granite and quartz, supported by hand-built stone terraces. It has been farmed organically (and certified as
such) since it was planted, and the winemaking follows a very minimalist approach, with SO2 as the only addition.
Vevi
The wine region Rueda is located in the heart of Spain, in the southwestern part of Castilla y León. It is high in elevation and possesses a continental
climate with wide shifts between very warm days and cold nights. Rueda has a long tradition of winegrowing and is the ancestral home of the noble
Verdejo grape. Verdejo makes one of the most distinctive white wines in all of Spain. Vevi Rueda is a cuvée made especially for Vinos de Terruños in
collaboration with Silvia García, an organic farmer and vintner with deep roots and intimate knowledge of the Rueda region. Vevi expresses the
unique personality of the native Verdejo grape, along with the inherent qualities of the Rueda terruño. It is a balanced, drinkable, and food-friendly
vino blanco. Fermented in stainless steel vat and raised on the lees 6-8 months before bottling.
Rubén Díaz
Rubén Díaz is a proud son of Cebreros, the village at the historic heart of the Sierra de Gredos and namesake of the new DO Cebreros, where perfectly
adapted old vines of Garnacha grow on granite and schist terroirs between 600-1250m elevation. In 1999, Rubén had an awakening when some of his
family vineyards were about to be torn out. He recounts having a physical reaction to the threat and realizing the importance of preserving his village’s
viticultural history. He started asking questions about viticulture and learning from his father and village elders, then studied, experimented, and compared
notes with fellow pioneers in the push for quality in Gredos. His focus is on organic viticulture and low-intervention, single-parcel vinifications across wide-
ranging terroirs. He is also a vital connector between the region’s producers and its most desirable vineyard sites – it doesn’t take more than a few
minutes in conversation with aspiring and established 'Garnachistas' in the area for Rubén’s name to come up, usually in gratitude for his generosity with
knowledge, space, grapes, and time. Rubén is hands-off in the vines, aiming for minimal disruption of the soil, and he uses no additives or set protocols
in the cellar except for very low, strategic sulfur additions. His only obsession is transferring into each glass of wine the meticulous care of the vineyards
and the peculiarities of each vintage. Weather conditions and temperatures change quite suddenly in these mountains, vintages vary quite radically, and
you can really feel it in all of Rubén’s wines over time. His whites are made from old vines of Chasselas Doré and Albillo Real and exhibit a range of
styles: young and fresh, skin-macerated, sous-voile, oxidatively aged in solera, and more. His reds are pure Garnacha, naturally made but classically
built, exhibiting the power, precision, and elegance for which Sierra de Gredos is gaining fame.
Aragón
Bielsa
The wine region Cariñena is located just southeast of Navarra in the province of Zaragoza. It is part of the larger political region of Aragón, the area
considered to be the ancestral home of the Garnacha grape. Cariñena possesses an ideal terruño for growing and making wine from old vine
Garnacha. The soils are poor and limestone based. The climate is continental, with hot days to ensure ripening and cool nights to preserve acidity,
along with a unique cooling influence from a wind that blows from the north, called Cierzo. This cooling influence helps give unusually delicate
aromatics and elegant wines from the late-ripening and potentially alcoholic Garnacha grape. Bielsa Garnacha is meant to be a drinkable and food-
friendly wine that expresses the unique personality and inherent qualities of self-sustaining, old vine viticulture and the Cariñena terruño. It is a cuvée
made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with Ana Becoechea, a vintner with deep roots and intimate knowledge of the Cariñena region.
Fermented and raised 3 months in American barrels. Bottled unfiltered.
Bernaví
Marco Bernava and Ruth Fullat met on the beach as teenagers, when Marco and his buddies road-tripped from their home near Milan, Italy to vacation
on Ruth’s local beach on the Catalan coast. In the years that followed, they exchanged love letters and taught each other Spanish and Italian. Eventually,
Ruth moved to Italy and they both became winemakers. After years of running large, technical, they decided to return to Catalunya in search of a place to
settle down and start a small, family project. The potential of Terra Alta’s unique location on the southwest border of Catalunya (where the Mediterranean
zone meets the Spanish highlands) and fascinating local 'panal' soils (deep, silty loam with limestone and gypsum) to make fresh and interesting wines
drew them to the historic winegrowing village of Vilalba dels Arcs. The salty finesse of Garnatxa Blanca from Terra Alta blew them away, as did the rare
old plantings of Morenillo, a high-acid native red variety that is experiencing a revival among the region’s forward-thinking vignerons. Terra Alta’s relative
affordability gave Marco and Ruth the freedom to develop personal interpretations of Terra Alta’s local varieties, to take risks, and explore (Marco
particularly loves the way Montepulciano reacts to 'panal' soils, for example, and blends it with Morenillo to delicious effect). Bernaví’s vines are farmed
organically, as are any grapes purchased from their neighbors. In the cellar, they seek clear, nuanced wines through the use of stainless steel and large,
used foudres (no barriques or new oak). Their value label, Xalera, showcases a light and playful side of Terra Alta at a great price. The Bernaví lineup is
composed of subtly rebellious, racy, and complex wines that combine the fine structure from calcareous terroirs with jewel-toned Mediterranean fruit at
low alcohols.
German Gilabert
Cava is Spain’s most famous sparkling wine. In order to be called Cava, the wine has to be made using 'método tradicional', where the secondary
fermentation happens in the bottle. 95% of Cava is produced in the Penedès area of Catalunya, located just southwest of Barcelona. It is no wonder
that Cava is the drink of choice in the many tapas bars of the great city. The grapes used for German Gilabert come from the subzone Alt Penedès,
where the highest elevation plots are located. Only native grapes are used, the vines are farmed organically, and the wine is bottled without added
sugar or Brut Nature. German Gilabert is a cuvée made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with a vintner who has deep roots and
intimate knowledge of Cava production. Primary fermentation in stainless steel vats. Secondary fermentation in the bottle, and it is raised on the lees
18-20 months before disgorgement. Bottled with no dosage.
Iñaki Garrido
Iñaki Garrido is an exciting new voice in the Canary Islands. Originally from the Basque region, Iñaki studied industrial design at university, then went on
to formally train and work as a sommelier. With time, it became clearer that he needed to work in the vines, so he went back to school in Rioja for an
advanced degree in viticulture and started his first small wine project there. His search for a vineyard of his own to farm and vinify drew him to the Canary
Islands and the oldest, highest zone of Tenerife’s Valle de Güímar, called Las Dehesas. It was here that Iñaki says he found everything he had ever
wanted: 0.5ha of own-rooted Listán Blanco, aged 150-200 years old, growing at 1400 meters on poor, rocky volcanic soils over sand and clay. This is
a special zone, very steep, difficult to access, and dry, with almost all of the annual moisture coming from the science fiction-worthy “horizontal rains” that
blow into the sides of Mt. Teide and provide critical hydration to the vegetation and vines growing along the sides of the volcano. Iñaki moved to Tenerife
full-time in pursuit of this profound mountain parcel. With the help of his friend (and competitive tasting partner), Jonatan García Lima of Suertes del
Marques, he produced his first vintage of Canary Island wine in 2019. Iñaki farms organically and vinifies Las Toscas naturally. The Listán Blanco
bunches were pressed gently and fermented with native yeasts in two 500L barrels (one new Stockinger and one used French), racked from the gross
lees after fermentation, and returned to barrel to rest on the fine lees for 6 months with no batonnage. Relative to the impressive range of expressions
of Listán Blanco from Tenerife, Las Toscas is unique. There is no sign of the reduction commonly found in Listáns from Orotava, nor the volume and
glycerol found in Santiago del Teide. The flavors are cool and enveloping, delicate and long. It is a thrill to experience a stunning new side of Listán
Blanco from Tenerife!
Portugal
Lisboa
Uncondemned
Very old “backyard” vineyards in the rural area north of Lisbon farmed by grandmothers and planted by their grandfathers. A full-time train conductor
whose maniacal off-hours toiling in said vineyards is the only thing holding condemnation at bay. A flirting-with-the-law tradition called 'palhete' of wines
made from a blend of red and white grapes. The nightmarish doodles of a medieval monk who feared retributive torture at the hands of unforgiving
rabbits. This is the story of Uncondemned. The wine from these 120-150-year-old vines was originally a product the local farmers would make for their
personal consumption or to be commercialized locally, along with the olive oil, vegetables, fruit, and animals they also raised. Feeling as though they
could not live off of selling these products alone, the next generation has moved away to find jobs elsewhere, leaving the vines to grow wild. So, André
Gomes, the winemaker at Quinta do Montalto in Lisboa, took action to save these historic vineyards. André organically farms two old-vine parcels in the
Encostas d'Aire DOP, where the chalky soils and cool sea breezes from the Atlantic Ocean give the wines a fresh acidity. André uses a traditional
Portuguese method of blending red and white grapes called 'palhete', which was described by the local monks centuries ago. This was traditional
throughout central Portugal until the mid-20th century when it eventually fell out of favor for commercial reasons. Both white and red grapes are
destemmed, crushed, and allowed to start fermenting spontaneously in unlined, open-top concrete tanks. The wine ages in concrete tanks with no
temperature control until the following summer, when it is bottled without filtration and just a minimal addition of sulfur.
Orgo
Orgo, a small, artisan winery located in the Kakheti AOP in eastern Georgia, is a project between Georgian winemaker Gogi Dakishivili and his son
Temur Dakishvili. Temur’s youth and energy coupled with Gogi’s experience and wisdom create a unique partnership that both honors the centuries-old
Dakishvili family winemaking tradition, yet strives to make it new again each year. Their mission is to make singular, unique wines that add their own
voice to the 8,000-year-old Georgian winemaking tradition. To this end, Orgo only works with old vine, 50-80-year-old vineyards, with yields as low as
1.5kg of grapes per vine-tree. Sourcing from old vines is an extremely rare and difficult project in Georgia since during the Soviet era, these older
vineyards were ripped up and replaced to increase production. The wines are all fermented spontaneously with native yeast and age in traditional clay
Qvevri with very low sulfur additions. In addition to Orgo, Temur and Gogi have created Dila-o as a way to show off these traditional Georgian
winemaking techniques while overdelivering on price.
Our Wine
Our Wine is a family-run winery led by winemaker Soliko Tsaishvili. Soliko started making wine as a hobby 30 years ago and he now farms 5.5ha in
Kakheti under biodynamics with some vineyards up to 50 years old. Most of his days are spent in the vineyards by himself tending to the vines like his
children (his actual ones are pictured on the labels). Soliko and his family do everything themselves by hand and their love for each bottle shows.
Grapes are destemmed and pressed into traditional Qvevri. After a wild fermentation, the wines age in Qvevri for six months and are bottled without
filtration and with no sulfur added. These are traditional wines with as much character as Soliko himself: bold, rustic, and authentic of place.
Kartli
Tevza
Goga Tevzadze established his traditional micro-winery at his home in Mtskheta in the Kartli region of Georgia in 2018. After starting a small, craft
distillery, Goga eventually left to pursue his love of winemaking. Tevza is focused on producing lively, natural, and highly expressive wines from the
unique and ancient grape varieties of Kartli. The wines are made from younger vine, 10-14-year-old vineyards with super low-intervention work in the
cellar. Fermentations are spontaneous in 900-1,300L traditional Qvevri with extended maceration, and the wines are bottled with no filtration.
Guria
Dato's Wine
Dato Kobidze of Dato's Wine makes fascinating and expressive natural wines from his family vineyard in Ereketi in the western region of Guria bordering
the Black Sea. His wines are precious: often made from rare grapes and produced in small quantities, celebrating indigenous Gurian varieties that nearly
disappeared during the Soviet era, all of which are made traditionally in Qvevri. In past vintages, Dato has offered fascinating wines, such as a Qvevri
rosé from the uncommon, tree-climbing variety Chkhaveri, fruit-forward reds from the autochthonous variety Aladasturi, and wines from almost extinct
varieties such as Jani and Skhilatubani. Look for more exciting things to come from this hero of Western Georgian viticulture!
United States
California
Amplify Wines
Lifelong Santa Barbara natives Marlen and Cameron Porter are the husband-and-wife team behind Amplify Wines. After initially bonding over a shared
love of wine and music, they created Amplify as a natural extension of the marriage between their two greatest passions. As winemakers, they seek to
amplify the voice of a site and enhance the most singular characteristics of a given vineyard, marrying a sense of place with a sense of style. Although
not fans of dogma, there are certain winemaking and farming principles that are central to their beliefs: native yeast fermentations, neutral vessels for
fermentation and aging, no additions of any kind besides sulfur, farming that seeks to establish a healthy ecosystem, enhancing and supporting the
natural characteristics of a given place, and embracing happy accidents and letting intuition be their guide. And by following that intuition, they have
created some gorgeous and authentic wines with a unique voice that is all their own.
Broc Cellars
After growing up in Nebraska and working in Seattle, Chris Brockway arrived in California to study winemaking. Following a textbook education at UC
Davis and Fresno State, Chris’ experience of drinking and enjoying more low-intervention, natural wines persuaded him to take a somewhat different
path than most of his classmates. In 2002, he began working at an urban winery in Oakland before leaving in 2006 to set up his own label from a
small industrial unit in Berkeley. Today, he runs his operation from a slightly bigger premises around the corner, but the focus remains the same:
producing site-specific wines from off-the-beaten-path vineyards or with unique, heritage grapes varieties, working only with fruit that is organically or
biodynamically grown, and taking a decidedly hands-off approach in the cellar, with only natural ferments and no additions other than sulfur when
needed. Chris' work continues to push the boundaries of "The New California", and his wines are some of the most compelling, terroir-expressive
examples being produced in the state today.
Oregon
Bow & Arrow
Husband-and-wife team Scott and Dana Frank of Bow & Arrow are producing wines from Loire Valley varieties in an urban winery in downtown
Portland. Both Scott and Dana have worked multiple roles throughout the wine industry: Scott previously worked as a wine retail buyer as well as an
assistant winemaker at Cameron Winery in the Dundee Hills, while Dana held numerous restaurant jobs in both the back and front-of-house. Inspired
by vignerons like Didier Barouillet of Clos Roche Blanche (who was an over-the-phone consultant on the project), Thierry Puzelat, and Marc Ollivier of
Domaine de la Pépière, Dana and Scott set out to turn Oregon's "Pinotstocracy" on its head. Fruit is sourced from some of the best cool-climate,
organic or biodynamic vineyards around the Willamette Valley, and the work in the cellar is completely natural. The result is a set of serious, well-
crafted, food-friendly, affordable wines that are a true homage to the Loire.
David Hill
The history of David Hill dates back to 1883 when it was originally known as the Reuter Family Homestead and was planted with Pinot Blanc vines, which
had to be ripped out during prohibition. In 1965, Charles Coury, one of the Northwest’s original wine pioneers, purchased the old, abandoned vineyard
in the hills above Forest Grove and decided to replant a test vineyard and vine nursery. A man with amazing foresight, Coury believed in the long-term
potential of Oregon’s cool-climate growing regions and decided to plant the vineyard using cuttings he brought back from his studies in Alsace: Pinot Noir,
Riesling, Sylvaner, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Chasselas, and more, all of which are still on the property today. When current owners Milan and Jean
Stoyanov purchased the property in 2000, they began to work the land right away, planting an additional 20 acres and reestablishing the vineyard's
legacy by creating the David Hill label. To have a positive impact on the land, wines, and community, David Hill became a LIVE certified vineyard and
a certified B Corporation. These certifications provide a benchmark to promote biodiversity, reduce chemical input, and contribute to the larger global
movement of reducing inequality. The overall methodology of winemaking at David Hill is a vineyard driven approach enhanced by natural winemaking
to showcase the unique clonal selections of the vineyard. The self-rooted, dry-farmed vines take advantage of the volcanic Laurelwood soil allowing the
wine from these older vines to express their true sense of place. Through farming with organics and minimizing inputs, they hope to preserve the greatest
microbial health possible in the vineyard. With over 15 years of experience, winemaker Chad Stock brings a breadth of experience and a passion for
cool-climate winemaking. During much of his time in the industry, Chad has explored the potential of wine in Oregon through his experiments with farming
and winemaking. In 2019, Chad joined the David Hill team to pursue producing wines from some of the oldest vines in the Willamette Valley and preserve
this unique piece of Oregon wine history.
Pray Tell
When Tom Caruso was a kid, he helped his grandfather make wine on a city sidewalk in Philadelphia – ironically on the corner of Oregon Avenue. They
would source grapes from a local farm and use a small hand crank destemmer and basket press (which he still has today). In adulthood, try as he might
to find another career path, the inevitable reality sank in, and he decided to drop everything and focus on wine. Tom worked night shifts for a winery in
Brooklyn and enrolled in an intensive wine school where his eyes were opened to the diverse world of wine. After harvest and passing his sommelier
exams, Tom realized his focus and curiosity had shifted to actually making the stuff, so he packed up his things and headed west. From New York to
Sonoma to the Willamette Valley, Tom has spent years working with winemakers, farmers, and mentors to develop his skills. With a head full of ideas
and a desire to explore his own creativity, he started Pray Tell in a little corner of Oregon's Willamette Valley. His values are founded on sustainable,
mindful farming, reactive winemaking, and an unflinching pursuit to continue learning and enjoying each bottle he makes.
Maryland
Old Westminster Winery
Nestled in Carroll County, Maryland’s rolling countryside, Old Westminster Winery is the Baker family’s project to preserve their family farm and put
their land to work to craft distinctive wines with a sense of place. They set out in the spring of 2011 by planting Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay,
and Albariño in their Home Vineyard at 800ft elevation on channery loam soils overlaying a bedrock of greenstone schist. In addition to their own
vines, Old Westminster works closely with neighboring vineyards to source fruit from a variety of soil types and expositions, allowing them to represent
the region’s diverse geologies and variable climate. In the vineyards, they implement a pragmatic farming program using environmentally sound
materials; mostly organic (and even experimenting with biodynamics), but also synthetic when it's known to be more effective and less intrusive for
Maryland’s demanding climate. Drew Baker, who handles the vineyard work, systematically rotates sprays to avoid resistance and reduce the volume
of necessary applications and utilizes diverse cover crops to promote beneficial insects and vines with stronger immune systems that need fewer
inputs. In the winery as well, the goal is to produce wines that reflect both the vineyard and vintage with minimal additions. Drew’s sister, Lisa Hinton,
who handles winemaking duties, achieves this by hand-picking and sorting the fruit, using gravity rather than pumps, fermenting all wines with
indigenous yeast, and bottling without fining or filtration. They are also experimenting with carbonic maceration, skin-contact whites, and pét-nats, have
gone all-in on a delicious set of piquette and wine-piquette blends, and have even produced the first true natural wines in can! Through the Baker family's
collective expertise, meticulous vineyard care, and thoughtful cellar practices, they have already managed to produce distinctive wines that are a pleasure
to drink and are putting Maryland wine on the world map.
Vermont
Iapetus
With no formal or family background in farming, grape growing, winemaking, or wine-drinking, Ethan Joseph first discovered wine while working for
Shelburne Vineyard during his time studying natural resources at the University of Vermont. In early 2008, Ethan seized on an opportunity to work full-
time at Shelburne and has since lost himself in the science, art, and mystery of wine. Ten years of self-education, first-hand experience, and the support
and guidance of friends, colleagues, and co-workers has brought Ethan to the doorstep of a new project: Iapetus. Named for an ancient sea that once
covered the bedrock that was thrust into the present-day Champlain Valley, Iapetus is produced through a close relationship with the environment.
Vineyard management takes into account the importance of soil and vine health and the effect these have on wine. Fermentation is carried out by yeast
foraged from the vineyards, and cellar work aims to preserve each season's uniqueness. These practices are meant to raise the wine directly from the
place in which it is grown. Ethan is not dogmatic in his principles, but rather endeavors to continually experiment, discover, and improve the stewardship
of this storied land. In this way, Iapetus is meant to serve as an evolution in the continued learning, developing, and appreciating of wine-growing in
Vermont.
Argentina
Mendoza
Campo
We are proud to introduce Campo. Old-vine, organically-farmed fruit, made with low intervention: wild yeast fermentation, no acid adjustments, no new
oak... Pure, straight-forward Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon from Argentina that don’t taste like blueberry pie!
Cider
France – Loire Valley
Julien Thurel
In Loury, about 30 minutes northeast of Orléans on the edge of the forest, the young Julien Thurel is undertaking one of the most ambitious and
exciting projects in France, attempting to resurrect the long history of cider production in the Loire Valley. Starting with just 1ha of certified organic
orchards, Julien is working with five local apple varieties as well as four local pears, plus a handful of varieties from Brittany (where he originally
learned cidermaking). He is also planting more trees just outside of the newly constructed chai, but many of these old varieties indigenous to the
Loire can take 8-12 years before they yield usable fruit. Alas, Julien is in this for the long haul. All fruit is harvested by hand and undergoes a long, 6
to 8-month fermentation with native yeast in old oak barrels. Secondary fermentation is in bottle (méthode traditionnelle), and Julien releases
everything undisgorged, as he finds this allows bottles to remain fresh open for a longer time. These are some of the most vinous, complex, and
structured cidre and poiré being produced in France today. Julien is also incorporating some local, organic honey for his triple fermentation cuvée,
"Mellicidre", as well as the still dessert/aperitif "Cydromel" (which also happens to be amazing for cocktails). With only a few vintages under his belt,
we can't wait to see what the future holds for this already impressive project.
France – Southwest
Domaine Séailles
Domaine Séailles is one of the pioneers of organic viticulture in the Côtes de Gascogne region of Southwest France. A family-owned estate since
1961, Séailles is now run by Jean Labérenne, who lead the domaine to Ecocert organic certification in 1997, swearing off all chemical fertilizers,
herbicides, insecticides, and synthetic chemical products. Located in the town of Ténarèze, which is unique in the region for its limestone soils, Jean
farms a total of 25ha of hillside vineyards with help the of Julien Lanclet and Laurent Lefèvre, even saving 2ha of vines to make the traditional spirit
of the region, Armagnac. The distillation is carried out at the domaine using an old, direct wood flame heated still, and the resulting spirits are aged
in 400L barrels for a minimum of 20 years.
Italy – Veneto
Nina
Sisters-in-law Cinzia Canzian and Pier Francesca Bonicelli started Alice in 2004 to fulfill their dream of bottling artisanal Prosecco thatʼs all their
own: estate fruit, pre-Dolomite, grower Prosecco. We call it Prosecco for non-Prosecco lovers (a category that includes us). In addition to their
exceptional sparkling wines, the women also continue on the tradition of producing a small amount of Amaro. Previously, this Amaro was reserved
just for friends and family that came to visit at Cinzia's grandmother's osteria in Vittorio Veneto (she is the 'Alice' in 'Le Vigne di Alice'). Luckily, we
managed to convince them to sell us whatever extra they could so we have a small amount to share with you today. Cinzia’s aunt’s nickname was
'Nina' and she was the one who composed the amaro recipe with over 30 different medicinal (and mountain) herbs. The bitter cut comes from
Gentiana lutea, known in English as bitter root. The herb grows in grassy alpine and sub-Alpine pastures, usually on calcareous soil. You may
recognize its bitterness, as it is the main ingredient in Angostura bitters. Mint, orange rind, sage, fennel fronds, and more give aromatic nuance.
Wine Cocktails
Spain – Castilla-La Mancha
El Chiringuito
El Chiringuito is a project created by Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with the Delgado brothers, pioneers in organic farming in Castilla-La Mancha.
Named after the small beach bars selling drinks and tapas in coastal Spain, the intention is to create an authentic, organic version of the local favorite
drink, Sangria, transporting the aromas of beach evenings, summer times, and moments with friends. The Delgado brothers use only certified organic
grapes for the base wines and blend them with organic Valencian orange and lemon juice, with no sugar added.
Dessert
Name Vintage Grapes Size Pack Importer SLO Code
France
Bertin-Delatte "Octobre Orange" VdF Blanc 2017 Chenin Blanc 500mL 6 MFW 631832
Domaine de Saint Pierre Vin de Liqueur "Les Larmes du Paradis" NV Chardonnay/Trousseau 750mL 6* MFW 634320
Mélaric "Liquoreux de la Cerisaie" VdF Blanc 2011 Chenin Blanc 500mL 6* MFW 627740
Big Bottles
Name Vintage Grapes Size Pack Importer SLO Code
Sparkling/Pét-Nat
France
Bernard Vallette "Née Bulleuse" VMQ Rosé NV Gamay 1.5L 6 597106 562442
Germany
Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Spätlese feinherb (11) 2020 Riesling 1.5L 6* MFW 640007
J.B. Becker Berg Bildstock Riesling Spätlese trocken 2000 Riesling 1.5L 6 VB 637364
Italy
Bella Vita Pinot Grigio IGP Veneto 2019 Pinot Grigio 1.5L 6 MFW 538943
Spain
Rubén Díaz Cebreros "Doré" (Skin contact) 2020 Chasselas Doré 1.5L 6 ARW 634248
Bodegas Corisca Rías Baixas Albariño 2019 Albariño 1.5L 6 ARW 634246
Artífice Ycoden-Daute-Isora Blanco 2018 Listán Blanco 1.5L 6* ARW 638599
Artífice Ycoden-Daute-Isora Blanco "Vidueños" 2018 Albillo Criollo/Marmajuelo/++ 1.5L 6* ARW 638593
Artífice Ycoden-Daute-Isora Blanco "Llanito Perera" 2018 Listán Blanco 1.5L 6* ARW 638597
Orly Lumbreras "Chass! Tinajas" Vino Blanco (Skin contact) 2018 Chasselas Doré/Albillo Real 1.5L 6* ARW 629942
Ignios Orígenes Ycoden-Daute-Isora Marmajuelo 2018 Marmajuelo 1.5L 6* ARW 638591
Rubén Díaz Cebreros "Doré" (Skin contact) 2020 Chasselas Doré 3L 1 ARW 634247
Rosé Wine
France
Bernard Vallette "La Rose Gorge" VdF Rosé 2020 Gamay 1.5L 6 MFW 630324
Red Wine
France
Benoît Roseau "Syrah de Rosette" IGP Collines Rhodaniennes 2017 Syrah 1.5L 6 MFW 637640
Château La Grolet 2019 Merlot/CS/CF/Malbec 1.5L 6 MFW 627069
Elian Da Ros Côtes du Marmandais "Le vin est une fête" 2018 Abouriou/Cab Franc/Merlot 1.5L 6 MFW 622709
Mélaric "Le Tandem" VdF Rouge 2019 Grolleau/Cabernet Franc 1.5L 6 MFW 627745
Domaine de la Marinière Chinon "Vieilles Vignes" 2017 Cabernet Franc 1.5L 6* MFW 627799
Mélaric Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame "Billes de Roche" 2017 Cabernet Franc 1.5L 6* MFW 627746
Raphaëlle Guyot "L'Idylle" VdF Rouge 2019 Pinot Noir 1.5L 3 MFW 632756
Elian Da Ros Côtes du Marmandais "Histoires de Boire" 2018 Merlot 1.5L 6 MFW 622711
Raphaëlle Guyot "Les Hâtes" IGP Yonne 2019 Pinot Noir 1.5L 3 MFW 632758
Le Dos d'Chat VdF Trousseau "Des Corvées" 2019 Trousseau 1.5L 6* MFW 637660
Italy
Bella Vita Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2018 Montepulciano 1.5L 6 MFW 538945
Lapo Berti Barolo "La Morra" 2016 Nebbiolo 1.5L 1 MFW 633918
Lapo Berti Barolo "Fossati" 2016 Nebbiolo 1.5L 1 MFW 633921
Spain
Artífice Ycoden-Daute-Isora Tinto 2018 Listán Negro 1.5L 6* ARW 638595
Adega Sernande "Mil Vueltas" Vino Tinto 2018 Mencía/Caíño/Palomino/++ 1.5L 3* ARW 625860
Ignios Orígenes Ycoden-Daute-Isora Vijariego Negro 2018 Vijariego Negro 1.5L 6* ARW 638602
Ignios Orígenes Ycoden-Daute-Isora Baboso Negro 2018 Baboso Negro 1.5L 6* ARW 638600