Materials System Specification

29-SAMSS-015 3 April 2013

Fire Protection Department Uniform Trousers (Navy Blue)
Document Responsibility: Fire Protection Department

Saudi Aramco DeskTop Standards

Table of Contents

1 Scope............................................................. 2
2 Conflicts and Deviations................................. 2
3 References..................................................... 2
4 General Description........................................ 3
5 Fabric............................................................. 3
6 Color............................................................... 4
7 Internal Construction Fabric........................... 4
8 Thread............................................................ 4
9 Stitching.......................................................... 4
10 Tailored Waistband........................................ 4
11 Belt Loops...................................................... 5
12 Darts............................................................... 5
13 Waist Closure................................................. 5
14 Slide Fastener................................................ 5
15 Fly Construction............................................. 5
16 Crotch and Seat Assembly Method................ 6
17 Seat Construction........................................... 6
18 Crotch Reinforcement.................................... 6
19 Leg Construction............................................ 6
20 Pockets........................................................... 6
21 Sizing.............................................................. 7
22 Labels............................................................. 7
23 Workmanship and Quality Control.................. 7
24 Finishing and Testing..................................... 8
25 Table.............................................................. 8

Previous Issue: 28 November 2011 Next Planned Update: 28 November 2016

Revised paragraphs are indicated in the right margin Page 1 of 8
Primary contact: Al-Zahrani, Said Ahmad on +966-3-8727061

Copyright©Saudi Aramco 2013. All rights reserved.

Document Responsibility: Fire Protection Department 29-SAMSS-015
Issue Date: 3 April 2013
Next Planned Update: 28 November 2016 Fire Protection Department Uniform Trousers (Navy Blue)

1 Scope

This specification together with the Purchase Order covers the minimum requirements
for men's uniforms used to provide a professional appearance.

2 Conflicts and Deviations

2.1 Any conflicts between this specification and other applicable Saudi Aramco
Materials System Specifications (SAMSSs), Engineering Standards (SAESs),
Standard Drawings (SASDs), or industry standards, codes, and forms shall be
resolved in writing by the Company or Buyer Representative through the
Manager of the Fire Protection Department of Saudi Aramco, Dhahran.

2.2 Direct all requests to deviate from this specification in writing to the Company or
Buyer Representative, who shall follow internal company procedure SAEP-302
and forward such requests to the Manager of the Fire Protection Department of
Saudi Aramco, Dhahran.

2.3 If conflicts and/or deviations arise between this Specification and other Purchase
Order documents not specifically covered as exceptions by the Purchase Order,
the Buyer shall be consulted and a ruling shall be obtained by the manufacturer
in writing before work proceeds.

The Fire Protection Department reserves the right to review, test and reject any
Manufacturer's Uniform Trousers before acceptance.

3 References

References listed below are a part of this Specification to the extent specified herein and
shall be of the latest edition, addendum, or revision in effect on the date of the Purchase
Order unless otherwise stated.

3.1 Saudi Aramco References

Saudi Aramco Engineering Procedure

SAEP-302 Instructions for Obtaining a Waiver of a Mandatory
Saudi Aramco Engineering Requirement

Saudi Aramco Inspection Requirements

Form 175 Inspection Requirements

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Document Responsibility: Fire Protection Department 29-SAMSS-015
Issue Date: 3 April 2013
Next Planned Update: 28 November 2016 Fire Protection Department Uniform Trousers (Navy Blue)

3.2 Industry Codes and Standards

American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

AATCC 88B Appearance of Seams in Wash and Wear Items after
Home Laundering
AATCC 88C Appearance of Creases in Wash and Wear Items
after Home Laundering
AATCC 96 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven and
Knitted Fabrics except Wool
AATCC 124 Appearance of Durable Press. Fabrics after
Repeated Home Laundering

American Society for Testing and Materials

ASTM D1683 Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of
Woven Fabric

3.3 U.S. Government Standards

Federal Standard
FED STD 751a Stitches, Seams and Stitching

4 General Description

Highly engineered trousers designed to maximize the appearance and wear life potential
of a precisely dyed Paris blue fabric of proven long-term reliability. The trousers are to
be designed to assure absolute consistency of seams, fabric and color appearance.

The trousers shall be manufactured with the following fabric to assure absolute
consistency of color, performance and design.

5 Fabric
Mill : Burlington
Style : Indestructible
Blend : 65% Dacron Polyester; 35% Combed Cotton
Weave : Twill
Weight : 8.25 oz/yd
Finish : Post cured permanent press

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Document Responsibility: Fire Protection Department 29-SAMSS-015
Issue Date: 3 April 2013
Next Planned Update: 28 November 2016 Fire Protection Department Uniform Trousers (Navy Blue)

6 Color

Paris blue

7 Internal Construction Fabric

Pockets, Waistband and Fly Lining shall be:

Blend : 65% Dacron Polyester; 35% Cotton
Weave : Drill
Weight : 4.5 oz./yd.
Color : Black
Finish : Post cured permanent press

8 Thread

All thread shall be cotton wrapped on monofilament polyester. Color matched.

9 Stitching

All stitching shall conform to Federal Standards 751a specifications (FED STD 751a).
All stitch types are sewn at stitch per inch rates (S.P.I.), with not less than 8 S.P.I. and
not more than 12 S.P.I. to ensure extended seam wear life. Stitch type 401 Tandem is
used at a combined S.P.I. of 12. All thread tension shall be evenly maintained to
eliminate tight or loose stitching. All seam allowances are to be maintained so that
there are no raw edges, run offs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams.

10 Tailored Waistband

The inside waistband shall be assembled from internal construction fabric to finish
2-½ inch wide which includes a ¾ inch extension. This shall be reinforced internally
with a 1 inch wide, 100% polyester stiffener.

The outside waistband shall be a full 2 inch wide. After assembly the waistband shall
be Ro-Cap set to the trouser. The entire circumference of the waistband shall be
permanently hot melt bonded with two (2) continuous ⅛ inch beads of silicone
“slip-not” rubber colored red. The beads are to be spaced ¼ inch apart and located
respectively ¾ inch and 1-½ inch down from the top of the waistband to enhance neat
appearance by preventing shirt pull-out at the waist.

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Document Responsibility: Fire Protection Department 29-SAMSS-015
Issue Date: 3 April 2013
Next Planned Update: 28 November 2016 Fire Protection Department Uniform Trousers (Navy Blue)

11 Belt Loops

There shall be seven (7) belt loops on all size trousers up to and including waist size
42 inches, and nine (9) loops on waist sizes 44 inches and over. Each loop shall be a
minimum of 2-¼ inches long and ½ inch wide, double needle stitched. They shall be
set into the waistband at the top and bar tack closed at the bottom, except the rear center
loop which shall be bar tack set top and bottom.

12 Darts

There shall be two darts to shape the trouser. They shall be placed at the left and right
back extending down from the waistband to the center of each hip pocket.

13 Waist Closure

Primary waist is to have a hook and eye construction mounted on the waistband using
rustproof nickel plated steel hardware as follows:
1. Size 85 Eye and Eye internal reinforcement plate.
2. Size 8 Hook and Hook internal reinforcement plate.

In addition to Hook and Eye plates, the construction shall include the additional
internal reinforcement of ⅞ inch tape mounted between the plates and the body
fabric to ensure construction integrity for extended wear life. The waist closure
appearance is to be further guaranteed by mounting a #22 ligne black four hole
button/buttonhole closure ⅝ inch below the waistband on the left and right fly
construction.

14 Slide Fastener

Slide fastener (fly zipper) shall consist of solid brass hardware mounted on colorfast
Paris blue (match pant color) blended nylon and cotton 7/16 inch tape. The chain size
shall be #44 Style 5010/1 slides, size 42 memory lock chain.

15 Fly Construction

The right side fly shall be reinforced with internal construction fabric and shall be
⅛ inch gauge topstitched along the entire exposed edge to ensure shape retention.
The left, outside fly shall be fully lined internally. Right and left fly shall be joined
together at the base of the fly. The joined flys shall form a reinforcing tailpiece
construction fully extending along the crotch seam to one inch beyond its intersection
with leg inseams.

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Document Responsibility: Fire Protection Department 29-SAMSS-015
Issue Date: 3 April 2013
Next Planned Update: 28 November 2016 Fire Protection Department Uniform Trousers (Navy Blue)

16 Crotch and Seat Assembly Method

The crotch shall be formed below the fly at the intersection of the four body panels of
the trousers: left front, right front, left rear and right rear. The trousers shall be
assembled to form this crotch by first sewing the left front to the rear thus making the
left side of the trousers and the right front to the right rear to form the right side.
The left side of the trousers thus formed is then joined together to the right side by
means of the seat seam. The trousers are not to be assembled by the alternate whole
front to whole back method.

17 Seat Construction

The seat seam, which joins the left and the right sides of the trousers, shall be double
sewn by means of two needles edges shall be separately finished with overcast/safety
stitch. The two needles shall sew in tandem to form closely adjacent alternating stitches
totaling not less than 11 S.P.I. Extra fabric (approximately 1-¼ inch) is to be allowed
so that the seat girth and waistband diameter may be expanded or decreased by the
wearer during the trousers' wear life.

18 Crotch Reinforcement

The crotch intersection shall be reinforced by the internal mounting of a reinforcement

gusset formed by an extension of the tail of the fly. This gusset is to be mounted around
its perimeter by stitch 301 such that it locks together the four panels of the trousers to
absolutely eliminate any potential for crotch seam failure.

19 Leg Construction

The legs shall be fully cut for ease of movement and assembled using stitch 515, four
thread safety stitches. Left and right outseams shall be further reinforced by means of
an additional row of type 301 (flat felt) stitching sewn through and through each
assembled outer seam along their entire length.

The finished trousers shall have 2-½ inch hem in each leg. The seam is to be removable
for changing leg length.

20 Pockets

There shall be four (4) pockets assembled from internal construction fabric as follows:

Left and right bi-swing type pockets with 6½ inch quarter top openings and full
11-¼ inch depth. Openings to be bar tack reinforced at top inside waistband, at bottom
across side seam and ¼ inch top stitching along bi-swing pocket opening. Construction

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Document Responsibility: Fire Protection Department 29-SAMSS-015
Issue Date: 3 April 2013
Next Planned Update: 28 November 2016 Fire Protection Department Uniform Trousers (Navy Blue)

shall include a second reinforcing layer or “heel” at the bottom of each pocket not less
than 2 inches deep. Pockets, including reinforcement “heels” are to be assembled, then
turned and restitched by stitch 301 for absolute reliability for the life of the trousers.

Left and right bi-swing type hip pockets with bottom welt constructions openings shall
be 5-¾ inches wide and 6 inches deep. The openings shall be bar tack reinforced at
both ends. Left pocket opening includes a #22 ligne black four-hole button/buttonhole
to close the pocket.

21 Sizing

Trousers are to be graded such that all vital dimensions change according to waist size.
The grade applies not only to seat, front rise, back rise and thigh measurements but also
to the knee and bottom measurements. The trousers shall be manufactured in the
regular rise grade and designed to fit regular torsos. Certain critical dimensions are
shown in Table 1.

22 Labels

All trousers shall have a permanent label sewn to the inside seam of the trousers.
The label will be made of a soft material that will not irritate or scratch the skin.
Labels will be permanent to withstand repeated washing for the life of the garment.

The label should contain the following information:

1. Manufacturer's Name & Country of Origin
2. Manufacturer's Stock/Lot Number
3. Size
4. Complete Care/Washing Instructions
5. Blend
6. Finishing

23 Workmanship and Quality Control

All trousers are to be made in a professional manner and are to be inspected during
manufacturing at final trimming and packing to insure consistent quality and adherence
to this specification.

This is a minimum specification. If superior quality is supplied it will be acceptable.

The Fire Protection Department shall be notified of any changes to this specification.

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Document Responsibility: Fire Protection Department 29-SAMSS-015
Issue Date: 3 April 2013
Next Planned Update: 28 November 2016 Fire Protection Department Uniform Trousers (Navy Blue)

24 Finishing and Testing

Trousers shall be fully shaped on high-temperature, high pressure presses to eliminate

wrinkles and form creases. Trousers shall meet the standards of the American
Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists as follows:
AATCC 88B Appearance of Seams in Wash and Wear Items after Home
Laundering
AATCC 88C Appearance of Creases in Wash and Wear Items after
Home Laundering
AATCC 124 Appearance of Durable Press. Fabrics after Repeated
Home Laundering

25 Table

Table 1 – Dimensions
Seat 3” Front Back Knee 14” Down Unfinished
Waist Thigh Bottom
Up Crotch Rise Rise from Thigh Inseam
28 37 11-¼ 16-¾ 24-½ 19-½ 17-¼ 35
29 39 11-⅜ 16-⅞ 25 19-¾ 17-⅜ 35
30 40 11-½ 17 25-½ 20 17-½ 37
31 41 11-⅝ 17-⅛ 26 20-¼ 17-⅝ 37
32 42 11-¾ 17-¼ 26-½ 20-½ 17-¾ 37
33 43 11-⅞ 17-⅜ 27 20-¾ 17-⅞ 37
34 44 12 17-½ 27-½ 21 18 37
35 45 12-⅛ 17-⅝ 28 21-¼ 18-⅛ 37
36 46 12-¼ 17-¾ 28-½ 21-½ 18-¼ 37
37 47 12-⅜ 17-⅞ 29 21-¾ 18-⅜ 37
38 48 12-½ 18 29-½ 22 18-½ 37
40 50 12-¾ 18-¼ 30-½ 22-½ 18-¾ 37
42 52 13 18-½ 31-½ 23 19 35
44 54 13-¼ 18-¾ 32-½ 23-½ 19-¼ 35
46 56 13-½ 19 33-½ 24 19-½ 35
48 58 13-¾ 19-¼ 34-½ 24-½ 19-¾ 35
50 60 14 19-½ 35-½ 25 20 35
52 62 14-¼ 20 36-½ 25-½ 20-½ 35

Revision Summary
28 November 2011 Revised the “Next Planned Update.” Reaffirmed the content of the document, and
reissued with editorial changes to replace the primary contact person.
3 April 2013 Editorial revision to change the title of the document.

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