Level: 

Advanced Beginner

Size: S/M (L/XL, 2X)

The pattern is written for three sizes but it can be easily adjusted for your exact size
(see approx. yardages for other sizes in Materials).

Measurements:

This sweater was designed with an oversized fit (approx. +20-25cm (8-10”) positive
ease to your actual bust)

Bust: 114-138-152cm (45-54-60”)
To fit actual Bust: 81/97-102/117-122/127cm (32/38-40/46-48/50”)
Length: 57-67-73cm (22 ½ - 26 – 28 ½ “)
Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue

Materials

 Fingering yarn. I used Our Tribe* yarn by Scheepjes. You will need: S/M - 3
skeins, L/XL – 4 skeins, 2X – 5 skeins (please, note that yarn amounts for sizes L/XL
and 2X were NOT TESTED, so they are approximate!!)
 I made two sweaters in size S-M.  One of them uses 3 skeins in colorway Lilla Björn,
and another one uses 2 skeins in Cypress Textiles and one skein in CanaDutch.

Our Tribe yarn is available for purchase in local Scheepjes shops, via Knotty House
(Canada)* and  Wool Warehouse* (UK, international shipping). 
 Amour Clover 3.5mm (E) crochet hook* or size needed to obtain the same
gauge.
 Scissors, tapestry needle to weave in ends.

Gauge
After Round 5 octagon measures 10cm/4” across.
For a more accurate gauge: 27dc x 11 rows = 10 x 10cm/4 x 4”

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide

US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other
terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in
translation to your native language.

st(s) stitch(es)
sp(s) space(s)
ch chain
yo yarn over
sc single crochet (insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, yo and pull
through both loops on hook)
dc double crochet (yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a loop, *yo, pull
through 2 loops* twice)
RS right side
WS wrong side
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
[…] [crochet following directions] as many times as indicated

Pattern Notes

 Lilla Björn sweater consists of two octagons which are then enlarged on sides
for a desired width (= front and back);
 Front and back are sewn together by hand on shoulders and sides (leaving
spaces for armholes);
 Two triangles are added at the bottom to make the bottom line straight;
 Bottom hem is added in the very end for the desired length of the sweater.

Please, have a look at the schema below. It should give you an idea about the
sweater’s construction:
This week we are making two central octagons (A) for front and back.

*******************************************************

INSTRUCTIONS

Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2018. All rights reserved. This pattern is for

unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may
not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that
are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you
wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and
copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright
page for more information.
Octagon (make two – front and back)

TIP: if you want to use two colors, weigh your yarn for octagon center and divide this
amount by two. For example, for S/M size you should use ½ skein for the center of
one octagon (front) and another ½ skein for the center of another octagon (back).
The rest will be made with another shade.

Rnd 1. Make magic ring, ch5 (counts as first dc and ch2-sp), [1dc into ring, ch2]
repeat 7 times in total, tighten magic ring, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd.
(8dc, 8ch2-sps)
TIP: for an easier count mark each ch2-sp in the corner with stitch marker and move
them to every new round as you progress.

Rnd 2. Ch5 (counts as dc and ch2-sp), [1dc in same sp, 1dc in next dc, 1dc in next
sp, ch2] repeat 7 times in total, 1dc in same sp, 1dc in joining ss, join with ss in third
ch in the beg of the rnd. (24dc, 8ch2-sps)

Rnd 3. Ch5, 1dc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2,
1dc) in next ch2-sp] repeat 7 times in total, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st, ch1, join with
ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (24dc, 16 ch1-sps, 8ch2-sps)
Rnd 4. Ch5, 1dc in same sp, *[1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp] till 1 st before next ch2-
sp in the corner left, 1dc in next st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp* repeat 7 times in
total, [1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp] till joining ss, 1dc in joining ss, join with ss in third
ch in the beg of the rnd. (7dc on each of eight sides, 8ch2-sps in the corners)
Rnd 5. Ch5, 1dc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 1dc left before the
corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the corner] repeat 7 times in
total, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till joining ss, ch1, join with ss in third ch in the
beg of the rnd. (5dc and 4 ch1-sps on each of eight sides, 8ch2-sps in the corners)

Before you start putting sweater together I would recommend blocking all pieces
carefully to desired measurements. Blocking will give you an idea of current length of
your sweater. And it will be easier to estimate the width of the hem at the bottom.

Putting sweater together

Place front and back side by side facing you with RS.

Using yarn tails sew triangles at the bottom to the decreased sides (as shown in the
pictures).
My photo camera died few days ago and I needed to give it to service. I couldn't
make progress pictures for the rest of the pattern, but you can watch the video!

 
Sew shoulder seams. Sew sides (regular side of the enlarged octagon) from the top
of triangles up, leaving a desired space for the armhole (approx. 15cm/6" in height, or
30cm/12" in circumference).

To strengthen neckline and armholes, work with one round of slip stitches around
them:

 Attach yarn with ss (on RS) in a shoulder seam, work with ss around the
neckline, join with ss in first ss of the round, fasten off. Repeat the same for
armholes.

Hem

Round 1. With RS facing you attach yarn with ss in magic ring of any triangle, ch2,
1dc in same st as join, dc evenly along the bottom of your sweater. Be sure you
make equal amount of dc’s along the bottom of both triangles. When you come to the
beginning of the round, join with ss in first dc after ch2.

Round 2. Ch4 (counts as dc and ch1-sp), skip base st and next one, 1dc in next st,
[ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st] repeat around, ch1, join with ss in third ch in the
beginning of the round.

Round 3. Ch2 (doesn’t count as dc), 2dc in next sp, [1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp]
repeat around. Join with ss in first dc after ch2.

Repeat rounds 2 and 3 till you reach the desired length of your sweater, then repeat
Rnd 2 once again.

Here are approx. directions for you: size S/M - 8 rounds (or 7cm/3"), size L/XL - 10
rounds (or 9cm/3.5"), size 2X - 12 rounds (or 11cm/4.5") 

Edge 

[ch5, skip sp+ next dc+ next sp, ss in next dc, ch3, ss in same dc] repeat around.
Improvise with end with this rnd depending on your stitch count. Fasten off.

Weave in all ends, block your sweater to measurements.

Congratulations!!! Your very own Lilla Bjorn Sweater is now finished! 

Repeat rounds 4 and 5 till you get desired length of the sweater (without bottom
hem). Finish octagon with rnd 4. Your stitch count should increase by 4 on each side
of every “full” round with dc (compared to previous full round). Don't fasten off!!

To reach designed width we should enlarge octagon on the sides. Let’s have a look at the
schema again:
B = enlarged sides for a desired width. We are making them today.

First you should decide how much you would like to enlarge the width of your sweater, and
divide this number by 2. This will give you the height of enlargement on each side.

For example, you want to make your octagon 10cm wider. It means you should add 5cm/2"
on each side (=the height of enlargement)

You will work in back and forth (so you will turn after every row) along three sides of the
octagon. “Holey” rows are made on WS and “full” rows on RS.

:
Enlargement 1:
Note: for the needs of photo and video tutorials I used contrasting yarn. But you can continue
with your main color, if you wish.

Row 1. Turn and work on WS.

Ch3, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st (=first dc2tog), [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 1 st left before
the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the corner] repeat 2 times in total,
*ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 3 sts left before next ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, 1dc2tog
(skip 1 st and make first leg in next st, skip 1 st and make second leg in next ch2-sp in the
corner), turn.
You will get two decreased sides and one regular side (between two decreased). 
Row 2 (RS). Ch3, 1dc2tog (make first leg in next sp, make second leg in next st), [*1dc in
next sp, 1dc in next st* till next ch2-sp in the corner, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the
corner, 1dc in next st] repeat 2 times in total, 1dc in next sp, *1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp*
till 1dc+1ch-sp+1dc2rog left, 1dc3tog (make first leg in next dc, make second leg in next sp,
make third leg in last dc2tog), turn.
Row 3. Ch3, skip base st and next one, 1dc in next st (=first dc2tog), [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in
next st* till 1 st left before the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the
corner] repeat 2 times in total, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 4 sts left, ch1, 1dc2tog (skip
1 st and make first leg in next st, skip 1 st and make second leg in last st), turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 till desired height is reached. Finish with row 2.

You can, for example, make: 4 rows (or 3.5cm/1.5") for S/M, 6 rows (or 5.5cm/2") for L/XL, 8
rows (or 7cm/3") for 2X (or other number of rows depending on your yarn choice and size
preferences). Fasten off leaving 100cm tail.

Enlargement 2:

Place crocheted piece facing you with WS so that the Enlargement 1 is on the left. Attach
yarn with ss in right bottom corner (ch2-sp).
Complete enlargement 2 in the same way as Enlargement 1. Fasten off leaving 100cm tail.
Block Front and Back to measurements.
Triangle (make two)

Two triangles are needed to fill the “gaps” at the sweater’s bottom to make the bottom line
straight.

The size of triangles will depend on the size of your back and front. Stitch count on the
triangle’s side should be the same as on decreased side of the octagon. One or two stitches
difference doesn’t not matter. You will easily fix it while sewing sweater together.

Triangles are worked in rows in back and forth.

Row 1 WS. Make magic ring, ch4 (counts as dc and ch1-sp), 1dc in magic ring, ch2, 1dc in
magic ring, ch1, 1dc in magic ring. Tighten ring, turn.
Row 2 RS. Ch3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 2dc in first st, 1dc in next sp, 1dc in next
st, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2-sp in the corner, 1dc in next st, 4dc in last sp, turn. (7dc on each
side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 3. Ch4, 1dc in first st, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st] till ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, (1dc,
ch2, 1dc) in ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st] till 1 st
left, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last sp, turn. (6dc and 5 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in
the corner)

Row 4. Ch3, 2dc in first st, [1dc in next sp, 1dc in next st] till ch2-sp in the corner, (2dc, ch2,
2dc) in ch2-sp in the corner, 1dc in next st, [1dc in next sp, 1dc in next st] till last sp, 4dc in
last sp, turn. (15dc on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 till you get needed stitch count on the sides. I made 14 rows for S/M
size. Unfortunately I was not able to calculate exact number of rows for L-XL and 2X sizes.
Please, continue to crochet triangles till you get needed stitch count on the sides. Fasten off
leaving 100cm tail.