SKIN / H AIR

SEBARYL® FL LS 9 0 8 8
SEBOREGULATOR

Division de Cognis France

DEFINITION / COMPOSITION SKIN BENEFITS

SEBARYL® FL LS 9088 is a complex of biotechnologi- 1. Regulator of sebaceous secretion and excretion.
cal and synthetic origin, for oily skin and scalp with a 2. Cleansing, natural astringent and matifying effect on
seborrheic tendency. skin and scalp.
A
Acro-infundibulum Sebaceous excretion
B 3. Improving the structure and the comfort of oily skin.
Epidermis
4. Improving the structure of oily hair; giving strength and
Infra-infundibulum
Secretion of sebum balance.
Pool of diffe-
Sebum
rentiated cells
SG 5. Anti-irritating effect.
Germinative
layer
Sebaceous
glands Undifferentiated COSMETIC USE
cells

Skin care:
© P. CROLLA

Medium dermis
Fig. 1 – Sebaceous glands, the target of SEBARYL® FL LS 9088: schema /
microphotograph (SG = Sebaceous Gland).
Main components:
1. Amino acids and sulfurated peptides (seboregulation).
2. Vitamins B: niacinamide, biotin, panthenol (inhibition of
lipogenesis).
3. Xanthic base: caffeine (inhibition of lipogenesis).
4. Steroidic heterosides of botanical origin (anti-inflam-
matory and auto-emulsifier of sebaceous lipids in excess).
5. Zinc salt (seboregulation).
- for oily or mixed skin type, having an acneic tendency,
- for skin having a shiny, irritable aspect.
Hair care:
- for oily scalp, with a seborrheic tendency,
- in case of seborrheic alopecia.
ORIGINALIT Y
SEBARYL® FL LS 9088 does not cause any reaction such as
sebaceous hypersecretion or rebound effect.
DOSAGE / SOLUBILIT Y / MODE OF INCORPORATION

COSMETOLOGY
MECHANISM OF ACTION 1. Dose of use: 3 to 5%.
• The activity of sebaceous glands is modulated by psychic, 2. Solubility: soluble in water, soluble in diluted ethanol,
nervous, neurovegetative and hereditary influences as well insoluble in oils.
as related to lifestyle (worsening effect with overly strong 3. Mode of incorporation: SEBARYL® FL LS 9088 is incor-
detergent). porated below 50°C during processing or at room tempe-
• Sebaceous secretion is mainly controlled by sexual rature for cold processing.
androgens (Fig. 2) in both men and women: testosterone,
dehydroepiandrosterone, androstanediols. ANALY TICAL CHARACTERISTICS
1. Aspect: limpid pale yellow aqueous liquid with a weak
odor.
2. Specifications: upon request.

TOLERANCE
Good. FOR
© Doris Fanta EFFICACY
Fig. 2 – Mode of action of testosterone on a sebaceous cell.
Test summaries overleaf.
ACTIVE I NGREDIENT

These androgens become active at the level of sebaceous STORAGE

glands and hair follicles under the influence of enzymes;
thus, testosterone, as soon as it enters into sebaceous In its original packaging, at 15 - 25°C.
cells, is transformed into dihydrotestosterone by a specific
enzyme: 5α-reductase (demonstrated to be present in INCI NAME
sebaceous glands).
• The exaggeration of sebaceous secretion is linked to a Water (and) Niacinamide (and) Yeast Extract (and) Aesculus
higher sensitivity of the sebaceous gland to androgenic Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract (and)
hormones. Ammonium Glycyrrhizate (and) Panthenol (and) Propylene
• Thanks to its constituents - lipotropic factors - SEBARYL® Glycol (and) Zinc Gluconate (and) Caffeine (and) Biotin.
FL LS 9088 is a bioregulator of sebaceous secretion:
- via decreased sebaceous lipogenesis, MANUFACTURER
- via an anti-enzyme effect: inhibition of the 5α-reductase
activity. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, division de Cognis France.
Consequently, SEBARYL® FL LS 9088 is a regulator of seba-
ceous excretion.

9088-801-180 © LABORATOIRES SÉROBIOLOGIQUES, DIVISION DE COGNIS FRANCE

SKIN / H AIR E FF IC ACY TES TS
SEBOREGULATING EFFECT Amount of active sebaceous glands Seborrheic flux
Summarized surface of total sebaceous spots
(CLINICAL STUDY) Total amount of sebaceous spots detected on
Sebutape detected on Sebutape (mm2)
700 - 4.2% 20 - 15.6%
- 16.6% 18 - 21.6%
Aim 600
(NS)
(*)
16
(NS)
(*)
Comparison of the efficacy of a 500 14
hydrogel containing 5% SEBARYL® FL 400
12
10
LS 9088 for the treatment of oily skin 300 8
having seborrheic and acneic tenden- 6
200
cies, versus placebo. 4
100 2
Protocol
0 0
Placebo hydrogel Hydrogel with 5%
Double blind clinical study in 25 Placebo hydrogel Hydrogel with 5%
SEBARYL FL LS 9088 SEBARYL FL LS 9088
volunteers following the summarized D0 D28 Statistics:
experimental protocol. Wilcoxon's T test
(*) p = 0.05
D0: before treatment
(NS) not significant
25 healthy female volunteers D28: after 4 weeks treatment T SEM 25 subjects
seborrheic skin on the face
Fig. 4 – Anti-seborrheic activity of SEBARYL® FL LS 9088 quantified by image analysis on Sebutape.
D0 Evolution after a 4 week treatment of the amount of active sebaceous glands, and the quantity of
excreted sebum. Mean results on 25 subjects.
bidaily hemi-face
hemi-face randomized 5%
placebo treatment SEBARYL ® FL
4 weeks LS 9088 D0 Placebo D28

D28
D0 + D28: Sebutape + image analysis
(quantification of the anti-seborrheic activity)

Fig. 3 – Schema of the experimental protocol.

Decrease in the amount of small spots
Results (Fig. 4 and 5) Many sebaceous spots of
various sizes.
but persistence of a large seborrheic flux
appearing through spots of large size.
Conclusion
D0 5% SEBARYL® FL LS 9088 D28
Only the hydrogel containing 5%
SEBARYL® FL LS 9088 showed a signi-
ficant anti-seborrheic activity with a Fig. 5 – Illustration of the
decrease of the amount of active anti-seborrheic activity of
5% SEBARYL® FL LS 9088
sebaceous glands, and of the sebor- measured by image analysis
Very clear decrease in the amount of
COSMETOLOGY

rheic flux. The placebo hydrogel did Many sebaceous spots of various sizes sebaceous spots, being characteristic on Sebutape, from one
not have such an activity. on the control lateral area. of an anti-seborrheic activity. subject.

INHIBITION OF 5α-REDUCTASE 5 α -reductase activity in % / untreated

Conclusion
125
(IN VITRO) SEBARYL® FL LS 9088 significantly
100 inhibits 5α-reductase type I starting
Protocol 75 at a 5% dosage; this effect increases
IC50
= 3.9% with the duration of the treatment.
The effect of SEBARYL® FL LS 9088 50
IC50 = 2.4% IC50 = 2.4% at 120 minutes.
(1-10%) was evaluated on cultures 25 (*) (*)
(*)
of human fibroblasts containing 0
5α- reductase type I. The inhibition 0 2 4 6 8 10
SEBARYL  FL LS 9088 in %
of 5α-reductase was evaluated by Statistics:
measuring testosterone (substrate 120 minutes Average ± SEM
(*) very significant interval
of 5α-reductase) metabolized per µg 60 minutes (p < 0.001) with the control
(Student's t test)

DNA per hour.

Fig. 6 – Inhibition of 5α-reductase type I in human
FOR

Results (Fig. 6) fibroblasts by SEBARYL® FL LS 9088.

ANTI-SEBORRHEIC ACTIVITY ON Results Conclusion

SCALP (CLINICAL STUDY) A hair lotion containing 3% SEBARYL®
ACTIVE I NGREDIENT

Sebum level (µg/cm2)

350
FL LS 9088 showed a significant anti-
Protocol 300 - 20.7% - 31.7%
seborrheic activity on the scalp after a
250 (NS) (*) 4 week treatment. In the same expe-
10 healthy female or male volunteers
hyperseborrheic scalp and hair 200 rimental conditions, the placebo did
D0: before treatment 150 not have such an effect.
Lipometric measurement 2 hours after shampoo 100
Randomization 50
RIGHT LEFT 0
Placebo lotion Lotion containing 3% Placebo lotion Lotion containing 3%
SEBARYL ® FL LS 9088
SEBARYL® FL LS 9088
Statistics:
D0 Wilcoxon's T test
(*) p = 0.0469
D28 (NS) not significant
T SEM

Fig. 8 – Evolution of the normal seborrheic level

D28: after 4 weeks of treatment
Same measurement as on D0
Measurement areas
Fig. 7 – Schema of the experimental protocol.
of the scalp, measured 2 hours after shampoo,
after 4 weeks of treatment. Mean results from
10 subjects.

LABORATOIRES SÉROBIOLOGIQUES, DIVISION DE COGNIS FRANCE - 3, RUE DE SEICHAMPS - BP40 - 54425 PULNOY (FRANCE) - FAX. (33) 3.83.29.98.65 - TEL. (33) 3.83.29.97.92
9088-801-180 © LABORATOIRES SÉROBIOLOGIQUES, DIVISION DE COGNIS FRANCE