Adderini Pistol

Adderini
3D Printed Repeating Slingbow Pistol

https://legolini.com
This toy is a lot of fun, but it can be dangerous. When not in use, always keep it under lock
and key away from children. Do not shoot living beings, use an archery mat/backstop!
The following information will allow you to build your own 3D printed slingbow pistol.
This project is based on the ideas of Jörg Sprave from The Slingshot Channel
https://www.youtube.com/user/JoergSprave,
combined with several of my ideas, solutions and optimization for 3D printing.
Original video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCz3i_h1vxU
How it works? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khtjkzfqMY8
If you like this project and appreciate my work, you can support me through PayPal
https://www.paypal.com/donate?hosted_button_id=DTDGEWZF4YA44
You can also support the Inventor who inspires me to create interesting things
https://www.patreon.com/JoergSprave
Adderini - 3D Printed Repeating Slingbow Pistol Ł.J. 2021.10.10 1

Table of Contents
Introduction........................................................................................................................................3
3D Printing..........................................................................................................................................4
Alternative no-crossbow version .........................................................................................................7
Sanding and smoothing..................................................................................................................... 10
Gluing parts ...................................................................................................................................... 12
Magazine assembly........................................................................................................................... 19
Magazine pivot assembly .................................................................................................................. 24
Pistol body ........................................................................................................................................ 32
Magazine and pistol body rails .......................................................................................................... 40
Slingshot mount parts and string stoppers ........................................................................................ 43
Cocking lever .................................................................................................................................... 48
Slingshot arms .................................................................................................................................. 51
Rubber.............................................................................................................................................. 53
Bowstring ......................................................................................................................................... 55
Open sight ........................................................................................................................................ 66
Stock................................................................................................................................................. 68
Compatible bolts / arrows................................................................................................................. 71
Picatinny rails for optional devices .................................................................................................... 72
Optional ammo clips with automatic magazine loading..................................................................... 74
Summary .......................................................................................................................................... 79

Introduction
Before you start making and using this toy, make sure it is legal in your country. According to some
regulations, this toy can be considered a crossbow.
Even if the crossbow is illegal or requires a license in your country, you can still use this toy
as a repeating slingbow with cocking lever, just print alternative parts. Please read the chapter
"Alternative no-crossbow version" first.
Adderini is the compact 3D printed repeating slingbow pistol with integrated quiver (magazine) for 6
arrows (bolts). The pistol is powered by TheraBand Gold rubber and has integrated ergonomic grip
and cocking lever with about 4 times lever effect. The pistol is compatible with standard 160-163 mm
long bolts (for pistol crossbows). It can be loaded manually or automatically with additional ammo
clips (same as Sliding Legolini), after pivoting the magazine spring lever. A standard open sight system
is used for aiming. Pistol is also equipped with 2 picatinny rails for laser sight/flashlight/front handle
and red dot sight or short scope.
Total length: 345 mm (520 mm with stock)
Height: 182 mm
Width: 100 mm (60 mm with folded slingshot arms)
Arrow energy: up to 10-11 J with TheraBand Gold bands 60 mm width per side (about 55-60 lbs)
Mass weight (pistol only): about 0,6 kg
Mass weight (with 6 bolts, red dot sight, laser sight, stock): about 0,9 kg
To build this pistol you must have:

 FDM 3D printer with a heated bed of at least 200 x 200 mm
 About 0.6 kg of PLA filament
 screws:
8 pieces of M3x35 mm
16 pcs. M3x20 mm
2 pcs. M3x16 mm
5 pcs. M3x12 mm
4 pcs. M3x6 mm
2 pcs. M4x40 mm Allen
 grub screws (headless set screws):
3 pcs. M3x16 mm
 nuts:
24 pcs. M3
2 pcs. M4
 1 piece of steel spring with a diameter 8 mm, length 20 mm and wire diameter 0.8 mm
 1 piece of steel spring with a diameter 8 mm, length 20 mm and wire diameter 1.0 mm
 1 small steel spring (from a clicky pen) with a outer diameter 4.2 mm, length 20-25 mm
(half of the spring for [C]_magazine_pivot_lock and half for [C]_cocking_lever_lock)
 TheraBand Gold rubber band 130x128mm, circular blade knife
 about 2,5 m polyester bowstring, serving thread, bowstring wax
 precision files, 180-240 sandpaper
 wrenches, screwdrivers, sharp knife, lighter, clamp, clothes pegs
 CA gel glue or two-component epoxy adhesive (for gluing parts)
 PTFE grease

3D Printing
The design is optimized for 3D printing with a layer height of 0.2 mm. For the purpose of strength
and durability, I recommend printing all elements with an extrusion width of 0.45 mm, wall thickness
of 2.25 mm (5 shells/perimeters), bottom and top walls thickness of 1.2-1.6 mm, and infill of 25-30%.
I also recommend printing at a slightly higher hotend temperature than usual. I recommend printing
on glass bed or PEI coated steel sheet to make the surfaces smoother. The 3D printer should be well
calibrated (extruder steps, flowrate, first layer height). It takes about 40-50 hours to print all parts
(depends on the 3D printer).
If you have a printer with a larger bed 300 x 300 mm, you can print large parts from the
"300x300mm_bed" folder and avoid gluing. In this option, you do not need 4 M3x6 mm screws and
4 M3 nuts for pistol body left and right parts.
If you are using a standard printer with a 200 x 200 mm bed, print out the parts from the
"200x200mm_bed" folder.
You must generate bed supports in slicer program for printing parts:
- [A]_magazine_left_front, [A]_magazine_left_rear, [A]_magazine_right_front,
[A]_magazine_right_rear or [A]_magazine_left and [A]_magazine_right for 300 x 300 mm bed
- [B]_pistol_body_left_front, [B]_pistol_body_left_rear, [B]_pistol_body_right_front,
[B]_pistol_body_right_rear or [B]_pistol_body_left and [B]_pistol_body_left for 300 x 300 mm bed
(these parts can be printed without any supports, but the bridge direction must be properly done by
the slicer program),
- cocking_rod
(it is possible to print this part without supports in a different orientation, but for strength reasons,
I recommend printing in a horizontal position with supports),
- [B]_cocking_lever_part1 or [B]_cocking_lever for 300 x 300 mm bed
(this part also requires internal supports in addition to those on the bed).
Supports for screws holes and nuts holes are not required.
The [B]_cocking_lever_part1 (or [B]_cocking_lever for 300 x 300 mm bed) and [C]_cocking_rod have
internal reinforcements designed. Make sure your slicer software executes them properly. If they are
not visible, use a different slicer or increase the number of shells/perimeters. These are the most
heavily loaded parts and this is very important.

All STL files already have the recommended orientation for printing when loaded into the slicer
software.
STL files are named as follows [A]_filename_x2.stl where:

[ ] - suggested color of the part:
A - light color, e.g. white, light gray,
B - dark color, e.g. black, dark gray,
C - intense color, e.g. orange, red, green, etc.,
x2 - the number of parts to be printed (if not specified, it is 1).
The side covers with the name "Adderini" can be printed in two colors, if your printer supports
the G-Code command to change the filament, e.g. M600. You need to set the slicer to change the
color of the filament on the layer above 2.0 mm high.
For 3D printer with 300 x 300 mm bed use [B+A]_pistol_body_left and [B+A]_pistol_body_right STL
files. You need to set the slicer to change the color of the filament on the layer above 6.0 mm high.

STL files:
Basic crossbow version
Part category 200 x 200 mm bed 300 x 300 mm bed
[A]_magazine_left_front
[A]_magazine_left
[A]_magazine_left_rear
[A]_magazine_right_front
[A]_magazine_right
[A]_magazine_right_rear
[B_or_A]_magazine_picatinny_rail [B_or_A]_magazine_picatinny_rail
magazine [B_or_A]_rear_sight [B_or_A]_rear_sight
[B_or_A]_magazine_pivot_part1 [B_or_A]_magazine_pivot_part1
[C]_magazine_pivot_lock [C]_magazine_pivot_lock
[C]_magazine_spring_lever [C]_magazine_spring_lever
[C]_trigger [C]_trigger
[B]_pistol_body_left_front
[B]_pistol_body_left_rear [B+A]_pistol_body_left
[B+A]_pistol_body_left_cover
[B]_pistol_body_right_front
pistol body [B]_pistol_body_right_rear [B+A]_pistol_body_right
[B+A]_pistol_body_right_cover
[B]_pistol_body_middle_front [B]_pistol_body_middle_front
[B]_pistol_body_middle_rear [B]_pistol_body_middle_rear
[B]_pistol_body_middle_rear_plug [B]_pistol_body_middle_rear_plug
[B]_cocking_lever_part1
[B]_cocking_lever
cocking mechanism
[C]_cocking_rod [C]_cocking_rod
[C]_cocking_lever_lock [C]_cocking_lever_lock
[A]_slingshot_string_stopper_left [A]_slingshot_string_stopper_left
[A]_slingshot_string_stopper_right [A]_slingshot_string_stopper_right
[C]_slingshot_string_stopper_roller_x2 [C]_slingshot_string_stopper_roller_x2
[B]_slingshot_mount_left [B]_slingshot_mount_left
slingshot
[B]_slingshot_mount_right [B]_slingshot_mount_right
[C]_slingshot_arm_left [C]_slingshot_arm_left
[C]_slingshot_arm_right [C]_slingshot_arm_right
[C]_slingshot_arm_washer_x2 [C]_slingshot_arm_washer_x2
stock [A]_stock [A]_stock
If you plan to use [A]_stock, don't print the [B]_pistol_body_middle_rear_plug. If you are not
planning to use [A]_stock, please print the [B]_pistol_body_middle_rear_plug.

Alternative no-crossbow version
This is a special version for people in countries where the crossbow is illegal or requires a license.
This version does not have the [C]_cocking_lever_lock mechanism, so you have to hold the
[B]_cocking_lever with your pinkie while cocking and firing. It is quite easy because the lever has
a specially profiled groove for the finger.
Thanks to this, it is no longer a crossbow, but a legal slingbow with a magazine and a cocking lever.
The table below lists all the STL files needed to build this version. Parts that are different from the
basic version are marked in red.
Alternative no-crossbow version

Part category 200 x 200 mm bed 300 x 300 mm bed
[A]_magazine_left_front
[A]_magazine_left
[A]_magazine_left_rear
[A]_magazine_right_front
[A]_magazine_right
[A]_magazine_right_rear
[B_or_A]_magazine_picatinny_rail [B_or_A]_magazine_picatinny_rail
magazine [B_or_A]_rear_sight [B_or_A]_rear_sight
[C]_magazine_pivot_lock [C]_magazine_pivot_lock
[C]_magazine_spring_lever [C]_magazine_spring_lever
[C]_trigger [C]_trigger
[B]_pistol_body_left_front
[B]_pistol_body_left_rear_no-xbow [B+A]_pistol_body_left_no-xbow
[B+A]_pistol_body_left_cover
[B]_pistol_body_right_front
pistol body [B]_pistol_body_right_rear_no-xbow [B+A]_pistol_body_right_no-xbow
[B+A]_pistol_body_right_cover
[B]_pistol_body_middle_front [B]_pistol_body_middle_front
[B]_pistol_body_middle_rear_no-xbow [B]_pistol_body_middle_rear_no-xbow
[B]_pistol_body_middle_rear_plug [B]_pistol_body_middle_rear_plug
[B]_cocking_lever_no-xbow
[B]_cocking_lever_part2_no-xbow
cocking mechanism
[C]_cocking_rod [C]_cocking_rod
[C]_cocking_lever_lock [C]_cocking_lever_lock
[A]_slingshot_string_stopper_left [A]_slingshot_string_stopper_left
[A]_slingshot_string_stopper_right [A]_slingshot_string_stopper_right
[C]_slingshot_string_stopper_roller_x2 [C]_slingshot_string_stopper_roller_x2
[B]_slingshot_mount_left [B]_slingshot_mount_left
slingshot
[B]_slingshot_mount_right [B]_slingshot_mount_right
[C]_slingshot_arm_left [C]_slingshot_arm_left
[C]_slingshot_arm_right [C]_slingshot_arm_right
[C]_slingshot_arm_washer_x2 [C]_slingshot_arm_washer_x2
stock [A]_stock [A]_stock
Do not print a [C]_cocking_lever_lock for this version, you also do not need 1 M3x20 mm screw.
If you plan to use [A]_stock, don't print the [B]_pistol_body_middle_rear_plug. If you are not
planning to use [A]_stock, please print the [B]_pistol_body_middle_rear_plug.

In this configuration the cocking lever does not lock into a cocked position, so the device does not
meet the definition of a crossbow. You need to hold the cocking lever with your pinkie while
cocking and shooting. This is not difficult as the lever reduces the draw weight about
4 times. It also allows you to reload and fire faster.

Sanding and smoothing
After printing, it is absolutely necessary to sand and smooth all print surfaces. All blobs and overflow
of filament should be removed. The most important are the upper surfaces of prints, magazine
and pistol body joints and rails.
You need to carefully check all the 3D printed elements and perform sanding and smoothing
if necessary.
The [A]_magazine_rear_left (or [A]_magazine_left) part have 1 blind hole for M3x16 mm grub screw
(connection pin with [C]_cocking_rod) to facilitate the generation of supports and 3D printing. You
need to open the hole with a round precision file or gently with a 3 mm drill bit.
The part [B]_cocking_lever_part1 (or [B]_cocking_lever) has an integrated support to facilitate

printing its picatinny rail. You need to cut this additional part off with a sharp knife and smooth the
picatinny rail with a file and sandpaper. This part has also 1 blind hole for M3x20 mm screw. You
need to open the hole with a round precision file or gently with a 3 mm drill bit.

Gluing parts
If you have a printer with a larger bed 300 x 300 mm, you can print large parts and avoid gluing.
The elements of the pistol model are divided into smaller parts to allow printing on printers
with a 200x200 mm bed. You need to glue these parts together.
Gluing should be done on a flat surface (e.g. table or desk top) so that the glued parts are even
and straight. I recommend using a CA gel glue or two-component epoxy adhesive. CA gel glue is very
effective in the case of PLA, but gives a short time for possible adjustments of the glued parts.
I do not recommend regular CA glue as it may leak when the parts are glued.
Excess glue should be removed immediately after gluing. Once the adhesive is dried, sand
the surfaces.
Before gluing, make sure that all parts fit perfectly together.
Parts to be glued together:

- [A]_magazine_left_front and [A]_magazine_left_rear
- [A]_magazine_right_front and [A]_magazine_right_rear
Parts to be glued and screwed together:

- [B]_pistol_body_left_front, [B]_pistol_body_left_rear and [B+A]_pistol_body_left_cover
- [B]_pistol_body_right_front, [B]_pistol_body_right_rear and [B+A]_pistol_body_right_cover
- [B]_cocking_lever_part1 and [B]_cocking_lever_part2

You can put a PET foil under the glued parts, which does not react with the CA glue and protects the
table top from getting dirty.
1. Gluing the magazine parts is very simple. Place the parts on the table with the flat side facing
down. Apply glue on one of the glued surfaces. Press both parts together and hold for a while until
the CA glue catches. Wipe off any excess glue and let it dry.
2. Gluing [B]_pistol_body_left_front, [B]_pistol_body_left_rear, [B+A]_pistol_body_left_cover

and [B]_pistol_body_right_front, [B]_pistol_body_right_rear, [B+A]_pistol_body_right_cover.
First, glue the main parts together. Apply glue on one of the glued surfaces. Press both parts together
and hold for a while until the CA glue catches. Wipe off any excess glue and let it dry.

You need 4 pcs. M3x6 mm screw and 4 pcs. M3 nut.
Insert the M3 nuts in the right places. If it goes in tight, you can use a longer M3 screw and a small
hammer. Be gentle so as not to damage the parts.

Prepare the parts for gluing and the necessary tools.
Apply glue to the surface.

Press down the glued cover part from above and tighten 2 M3x6 mm screws. Do the same for the
other side of the pistol body. Remove excess glue. Allow the parts to dry.

3. Gluing [B]_cocking_lever_part1 and [B]_cocking_lever_part2 - you need 2 pcs. M3x16 mm screw
and 2 pcs. M3 nut.
Insert the M3 nuts into the holes.

Apply glue to the surfaces to be glued. Put them together and then tighten 2 M3x16 mm screws.
Remove excess glue. Allow the parts to dry.
Once dry, sand all joints with sandpaper. The parts are ready for assembly.

Magazine assembly
Take the right side of the magazine ([A]_magazine_right) and insert 4 M3 nuts into the holes.

Install the [B_or_A]_magazine_picatinny_rail, [C]_trigger and 8x20x0.8 mm steel spring.
Take the left side of the magazine, put it on the right side.

Screw it all together using 4 M3x20 mm screws. Before tightening the screws, make sure that the
parts are aligned and there are no gaps between them.
Secure [C]_trigger into place with M3x20 mm screw. The screw is screwed directly into the plastic,
so make sure there is no gap between the parts on the bottom of the magazine. Use a clamp
to squeeze the parts together while tightening. Be careful, not to over tighten it.

Take the [C]_cocking_rod and screw it to the magazine with a M3x16mm grub screw.
The grub screw is screwed directly into the plastic, so make sure there is no gap between the parts
on the bottom of the magazine. Use a clamp to squeeze the parts together while tightening.

After screwing the parts, there should be no gap at the bottom of the magazine. The grub screw
should be almost invisible.

Magazine pivot assembly
Insert M3 nut into the hole of the [B_or_A]_magazine_pivot_part2.

Insert half of the spring from the clicky pen into the [C]_magazine_pivot_lock hole.
Insert [C]_magazine_pivot_lock to [B_or_A]_magazine_pivot_part2.

Join together [B_or_A]_magazine_pivot_part1 and [B_or_A]_magazine_pivot_part2 using M3x12mm
screw.

Check that the [C]_magazine_pivot_lock slides easily into the groove.

Install 8x20x1.0 mm steel spring into hole.
Insert [C]_magazine_spring_lever into place and secure it with M3x12 mm screw. The screw is
screwed directly into the plastic. Be careful, not to over tighten it.

Put the whole thing into the magazine and secure it with an M3x20 mm screw. The screw is screwed
directly into the plastic. Be careful, not to over tighten it.

Make sure the [B_or_A]_magazine_pivot and [C]_magazine_pivot_lock mechanisms are working
properly.

The entire magazine is ready.

Pistol body
If the crossbow is illegal or requires a license in your country, you can still use this toy
as a repeating slingbow with cocking lever, just use alternative _no-xbow parts.
Whichever version you choose, I think the following information will help you assemble a complete
pistol. Parts are slightly different and in the no-crossbow version there is no cocking_lever_lock.
Take [B]_pistol_body_middle_rear, [B]_pistol_body_middle_rear_plug and [C]_cocking_lever_lock.
Insert half of the spring from the clicky pen into the [B]_pistol_body_middle_rear hole.

Insert [C]_cocking_lever_lock into place. Help yourself with a knife or flat screwdriver to compress
the spring.

Install the [B]_pistol_body_middle_rear_plug, unless you want to use [A]_stock later.
Assembling parts of the pistol body.

Take the right side of the pistol_body and insert the 5 M3 nuts into the pistol handle part.
Insert the 2 M3 nuts into the holes on the inside of the pistol body.

Install [B]_pistol_body_right, [B]_pistol_body_middle_rear and [B]_pistol_body_left to fit together.

Screw all together with 5 M3x20 mm screws. I suggest inserting 2 stabilizing M3 screws and nuts in
the front part before tightening the rear screws. Both sides must be in right place.

Secure the [C]_cocking_lever_lock and the trigger guard parts with 2 M3x20 mm screws. The screws
are screwed directly into the plastic. Be careful not to over tighten them.
Make sure there is no gap between the trigger guard parts. Use a clamp to squeeze the parts
together while tightening

Magazine and pistol body rails
Take pistol_body and magazine. Slide the magazine rails into the pistol body rails. The movement
in the rails should be smooth, without much friction between parts. If not, use a file or sandpaper
to grind the magazine rails.

If both parts fit together, slide out the magazine and coat the rails with PTFE grease. Then slide the
magazine back.

Slingshot mount parts and string stoppers
Insert 2 M4 nuts into the holes of the [B]_slingshot_mounts.

Attach [A]_slingshot_string_stoppers with [C]_slingshot_string_stopper_rollers to the
[B]_slingshot_mounts with 4 M3x35 mm screws. Make sure the rollers turn freely on the screw.
If not, you have to drill or file slightly larger holes in the rollers. The rollers protect the rubber and the
bowstring against abrasion. Alternatively, you can install five 683ZZ bearings per side in place of the
rollers. The screws are screwed directly into the plastic. Be careful not to over tighten them.

Assemble the [B]_slingshot_mounts parts together with [B]_pistol_body_middle_front. Use 3 M3x35
mm screws with 3 M3 nuts and 2 M3x12 mm screws.

After tightening the M3x35 mm screws, check that the magazine moves in the rails without much
friction. If not, loosen the top 2 M3x35 mm screws a little. If there is still a lot of friction then you
need to print the wider part [B]_pistol_body_middle_front +0.2mm or +0.4mm.

Cocking lever
Insert the cocking_lever into the pistol_body and secure it with the M3x35 mm screw and M3 nut.

Combine cocking_rod with cocking_lever. Secure the connection with the M3x20 mm screw.
The screw is screwed directly into the plastic. Be careful, not to over tighten it.
Check that all pistol mechanisms are functioning properly and cocking_lever locks into place. If not,
file the cocking_lever_lock hook or cocking lever catch hole a bit.

Slingshot arms
Screw in 2 M3x16 mm grub screws into the [C]_slingshot_arms. The screws should protrude
approximately 4-4.5 mm.

Insert 2 M4x40 mm Allen head screws into the 3D printed washers.
Attach the slingshot arms to the pistol. Make sure the parts fit together and lock into place in correct
position.

Rubber
You can use a solution similar to the Sliding Legolini (tube rubber and 3 mm polypropylene rope
string with middle serving), but I haven't tested it on a pistol. Theraband tube should be attached
to the arms directly with using the rubber straps or a thin rope or string.
Use a 60-65 mm long TheraBand tube rubber per side and 3 mm rope with middle serving
as a bowstring (about 110 mm between knots).
It works really well, but I do not recommend this solution.

From the beginning I was going to use TheraBand gold bands and a dedicated bowstring. This made it
possible to reduce the size of the slingshot parts, achieve high power and ensure high reliability.
Slingshot arms are designed for 20 mm wide TheraBand gold bands. You can use 20 mm, 40 mm
or 60 mm strips on each side. I recommend 40 mm per side because it allows you to get around 6-7
Joules of arrow energy (about 35-40 lbs of draw weight) and it's very easy to fire and cock the pistol.
The 60 mm bands per side are already 10-11 Joules of arrow energy (about 55-60 lbs of draw weight)
and probably close to the total strength of this 3D printed pistol design. However, I did not notice any
major problems, although cocking_lever bends quite significantly in this configuration. I guess that's
absolutely maximum for that 3D printed pistol.
I recommend using the entire width (130 mm) of TheraBand gold band to cut 2x40 mm for power
and 2x3 mm or 2x4 mm strips to mount the rubber on the slingshot arms. You need cut 2x60 mm
if you want to use the maximum power.
So you need 2 pcs. 130x40 mm (or 130x60 mm) and 2 pcs. 130x3 mm (or 130x4 mm) of rubber. The
rubber should be cut with a knife with a circular blade next to a ruler.

Bowstring
It is more difficult and time-consuming to make a dedicated bowstring. To make the task easier,
I designed a printable mini Bowstring Jig and mini Serving Tool. I highly recommend using these tools.
The bowstring should be about 100-110 mm long. End loops of approximately 20-25 mm each
in string length.
A longer string provides a safer distance between the rubber and the sides of the magazine
and protects it better against damage. A shorter bowstring gives a slightly better performance.
Serving Tool
Print serving_tool and 2 serving_tool_spool_half. Glue spool parts together with CA glue. You need
also M3x30 mm screw with HEX head, M3 thumb nut, one washer, and one spring washer.
Bowstring Jig
Print 2 bowstring_jig and 4 bowstring_jig_roller. You need also 200 mm of 2020 aluminum profile,
4 M3x35 mm screws with 4 M3 nuts, 2 M5x20 mm screws, 2 M5x40 mm screws, 2 M5 nuts, 4 M5
T-nuts for V-groove.

Set Bowstring Jig to about 65 mm between screws axis. Use polyester bowstring and make 7 tight
loops.
Start serving the string. You need to make about 45-50 mm long serving.
How to make a serving? Watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hwQiKAWl2k

and this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZCz-wGBvRM

When serving is finished with 3 loops, leave about 30 cm of thread. You will need it later.

Same on the opposite site. Make sure that serving length is similar on the both sides.
Cut ends of polyester bowstring.

Change Bowstring Jig into the following configuration.
Finish the serving loop on both sides as shown below.

Complete the 1 layer middle serving of naked polyester bowstring.

Use bowstring wax and the bowstring is ready.
Warning! If the middle serving of string starts to fray from the trigger and arrow, replace it.
How to tie rubber bands on arms? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_N_ecPjjuzc
Prepare the parts shown below. Bend the bowstring in half.

Fold the rubber band and go through the bowstring loop.
Align the ends of the rubber and prepare to tie. The mark on the slingshot arm marks the place
where you need to put the ends of the rubber strips.

Tie rubber band on arm.
Push the bowstring through the string slot in the pistol.

Prepare a second rubber band to tie.

Attach the slingshot arms to the pistol. The slingshot arms are folded along the magazine. This is the
resting state of the rubber bands. If you are not shoot for a long time, this is the recommended
storage position for the pistol.
The photos below show unfolded arms of the slingshot. This is the starting position of the pistol
when it is ready to pull the string and fire.
The length and pre-tension of the rubber on both sides should be similar. If the bowstring
is significantly shifted to either side, the rubber may be damaged during the shot.

Open sight
This is the easiest way to aim. Install the rear_sight onto the rear picatinny rail with the M3x12 mm
screw.

Stock
This is an optional part. Makes it easier to aim and allows you to extend the pistol to 520 mm.
You need 250 mm long aluminum pipe with a diameter of 12mm and wall thickness of 1 mm,
2 M3x20 mm screws and 2 M3 nuts. You need to drill holes in the pipe so that the stock is in line with
the pistol_body.

When drilling a hole in the front of the pipe, place the rear part of the pistol body and stock on the
flat surface.

Compatible bolts / arrows
The pistol is compatible with all the bolts as shown below. These are standard bolts for pistol
crossbows 160-163 mm long. Regular training arrows as well as broadheads and bodkin tips are
available. The magazine chamber holds 6 such arrows. I recommend using bolts with an full
aluminum shaft.

Picatinny rails for optional devices
The pistol is equipped with two picatinny rails. I suggest using the lower rail only for devices such
as flashlight or laser sight. The cocking lever may bend a bit when tightening the string, but it does
not significantly affect the accuracy of aiming the laser at a short distance.

The upper picatinny rail combined with the magazine allows for the installation of a red dot sight
or short scope. The rail is tilted towards the front by 2 degrees, so it is easier to set the sights over
longer distances.

Optional ammo clips with automatic magazine loading

I think this video will explain how it works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbBHbEoSbZ0
When loading the magazine, it is recommended to tilt the pistol back about 15-45 degrees. The rest
is done by gravity when the ammo clip moving backwards. With a little practice, you can load
a magazine very quickly.
This ammo clip is 3D printed (9 parts) and requires only 4 external elements to work (3 pieces M3x20
mm Allen screws and a small spring from a pen - 4.2 mm diameter and about 25 mm length).
The arrow release mechanism of the ammo clip is triggered by the movement of the clip backwards.
At the end of the bow magazine is a small notch that works with the ammo clip main slider.
The ammo clip has a small lock switch that makes it difficult to accidentally unload the ammo clip
when placing it in the belt attachment. The trouser belt attachment has an additional lock that
immobilizes the whole mechanism, so when walking or running the bolts will not fall out.
3 versions ammo clips are available - please choose the right one for your arrows/bolts:
"A"without circle on the housing - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4214277
- for 160 mm bolts with steel point head, aluminum shaft (6.2 mm diameter) with plastic fletching
or full plastic shaft (6 mm diameter) and fletching (cheapest bolts available also on Aliexpress)

"B"with one circle on the housing - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4214299
- for 161 mm bolts with steel point head, aluminum shaft (6.35 mm diameter) with 6 mm back
and 47 mm silicone fletching (for example some POE LANG bolts)

"C"with two circles on the housing - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4214302
- for 161 mm bolts with steel point head or broadhead, aluminum shaft (6.35 mm diameter) with
8 mm back and 47 mm silicone fletching (for example bolts for pistol crossbows Viper, Stinger, Armex
Tomcat, NXG Cobra or comparable models)

Summary
I hope you can build your own Adderini based on my pretty detailed instructions. It's not particularly
complicated, but it does require patience and some manual skills.
This is by far the most complicated of my designs. It took many many hours of designing and solving
various problems along the way. It is a compromise between the size of the pistol, magazine
capacity, length and durability of the cocking lever and the decent power. The shared STL files are
the fifth version of the project.
It's a 3D printed toy, so it's not very strong, but it's definitely fun.
Now some good advice:

 remember about your safety and the safety of others during DIY works and using this device
 use only good-quality and undamaged parts and bolts
 regularly check the condition of the bowstring serving
 before starting the shooting, check the condition of the entire device, in particular
the tightening of the screws and the condition of the 3D printed parts
 to prevent jamming and damaging the device, before firing the first shot, make sure that only
one arrow is in the string slot and arrow guide
 if you not shooting, store the pistol with the folded slingshot arms to extend the life of the
rubber
 do not expose PLA printouts to temperatures above 40 degrees Celsius, because they may
be permanently deformed
I would like to thank my beta testers who helped me improve many things on the device.
I would like to thank Jörg Sprave for his inventions, help, good word and inspiration to act.
Without him, this project would certainly not have been possible.
Łukasz Janikowski

Adderini Pistol

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Adderini Pistol

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Adderini

3D Printed Repeating Slingbow Pistol

Original video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCz3i_h1vxU

How it works? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khtjkzfqMY8

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To build this pistol you must have:

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STL files are named as follows [A]_filename_x2.stl where:

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Alternative no-crossbow version

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The part [B]_cocking_lever_part1 (or [B]_cocking_lever) has an integrated support to facilitate

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Parts to be glued together:

Parts to be glued and screwed together:

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2. Gluing [B]_pistol_body_left_front, [B]_pistol_body_left_rear, [B+A]_pistol_body_left_cover

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Apply glue to the surface.

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Insert the M3 nuts into the holes.

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Insert M3 nut into the hole of the [B_or_A]_magazine_pivot_part2.

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Insert [C]_magazine_pivot_lock to [B_or_A]_magazine_pivot_part2.

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Take [B]_pistol_body_middle_rear, [B]_pistol_body_middle_rear_plug and [C]_cocking_lever_lock.

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Assembling parts of the pistol body.

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Insert 2 M4 nuts into the holes of the [B]_slingshot_mounts.

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