KLR 685cc Kit

Instructions
For 1996-2013 KLR650A

 Note – This piston will fit the 1996 to 2013 cylinders only. The liners on 1987 to 1995
cylinders are too thin to use safely. If you wish to use this piston on the early model KLR’s,
you must use a 1996 to 2013 cylinder assembly. The cylinder assemblies are
interchangeable and require no modification to use.
 Boring/Fitting
o Measure the piston 7mm from the lower edge of the skirt, 90^ from the Pin. Minimum
clearance is .055mm or .0022”. Do not fit any tighter! Bore and finish hone. Use
#320 grit finish. This is a bit coarser than most modern bores. Do not use a finisher
finer than #400.
 Check Ring End Gaps
o Fit each ring squarely in the bore, and check ring end gaps. Minimum gap is .018”.
The oil ring scrapers will normally be well over that. The 1st and 2nd ring may require
some filing to get at least .018”. Do not fit any tighter!
 Fit the rings to the piston
o Install the oil ring expander 1st, then the oil scraper rings. The oil scrapers have no
direction and may be installed either way. Make triple sure the expander ends are
butted against each other. If they are overlapped it will damage the rings and smoke
heavily! The 2nd and top rings are directional. The 2nd ring is thinner. The lettering
must face up! The top ring is thicker and wider it has a stamped “dot.” This dot must
face up.
 Clearance the head gasket
o If using a new Kawasaki head gasket, Part# 11004-1158, it must be clearanced
around the bore before installing. No part of the gasket should overhang the bore.
You can remove this extra material with a dremel tool and a sanding drum. Be careful
not to overheat the area you are working. Normally only .010” to .020” needs to be
removed. Carefully deburr the edge when finished.
 Assembly
o Wash the cylinder in warm soapy water and dry. Wipe the bore clean with WD-40 and
a clean rag. Install the piston on the connecting rod. Use a drop of oil on the pin. The
new piston pin may be a very stug fit. If you can not insert the pin, use a ball hone to
open the small end of the rod up slightly. Install the base gasket. It is easier to lay a
couple of dowels under the piston skirt. These will hold the piston square with the
base. Set the cylinder on top and screw two of the long head bolts in to help hold the
cylinder. Verify the ring end gap positions one lat time. Smear 1 drop of oil on the
piston skirt. Use no oil on the rings, or on the bore. Carefully work the cylinder down
over the rings. Rotate the engine over a few times by hand. There should be a
smooth light drag. Assemble as per the factory, or Clymer service manual. Use stock
torques. NOTE – Use no gasket sealer on the head gaskets. (See image below)
 Break in
o Before the first fire up, change the oil & filter. Use a cheap 10w30 or 10w40 mineral
based oil. No synthetic. Warm the bike up fully. Ride the bike somewhat easy for 5
to 20 miles. DO as much engine braking as possible. NO steady throttle cruising!
 Change the oil and filter again using a premium grade, non-synthetic 10w40. Over the
next 150-200 miles work the engine progressively harder. Best if done in 2-3 sessions
with a cool down in between. Again, use as much engine braking as possible. Go
through the gears as much as possible. There are no RPM limits, just “work” the
engine a littler harder each time, then back off. Change the oil and filter again after
this period. You can now use synthetic oil (recommended). Use a 15w50 or 20w50.
Avoid any extended high RPM runs for another 100 miles.
o The head bolts do no need to be retorqued, but it does not hurt to do so. You should
recheck the exhaust bolts and other hardware about this time.
 Re-Jetting
o The piston kit alone will not require any jetting changes. If it was correct before, it
should not change
o Note – Because this piston is forged, it should be warmed up a little longer before
riding. You may also hear a bit more noise when cold. The PCV valve mod is also
recommended with this piston kit.
o Also highly recommended is the “thermo-bob” modification. That can be found at
http://www.xanga.com/watt_man
 KLR-685 Piston Specifications
1996-2013

Schnitz Racing
222 N 3rd Street
Decatur, IN 46733
(260)728-9457

Motor Type: Kawasaki KL650-A

Displacement:
Piston Type: Flat Top
Bore: 4.035 (102.49mm) IMPORTANT CLEARANCE
Stroke: 3.268” (83mm) INFORMATION GUIDELINES ONLY

Flat Top Set clearance to .0024 (.06mm)

Comp. Dist: 1.213 (30.81mm) Some applications may require more
Int .156 (3.96mm) 27 Deg clearance. Measure piston diameter
Exh .141 (3.58mm) 28 Deg .275 (7mm) from bottom of piston skirt
Valve pocket dept measured from Deck Minimum clearances (coated) .0022”

Groove Land CORRECT PISTON INSTALLATION IS

Top .48 (1.22)mm) .210 (533mm) THE RESPOINSIBILITY OF THE
nd
2 .040 (1.02mm) .140 (3.56mm) CUSTOMER
Oil .119 (3.02mm) .110 (2.79mm)
Minimum ring end gap is .018”
Pin Dia .945 (24.00mm) Ring Markings face up (dot or letters)
Pin Length 2.250 (57.15mm) Oil Rings are not marked
JE .073 Wire Locks
Note—Compression height is .005” lower
Actual Weight 413 Grams than stock piston at outer edge. Stock
Total Assembled Weight piston is dished slightly
With Rings–Pin 558 Grams
Stock Assy 641 Grams
Valve Reliefs will clear 40/36mm Valves