Perfumerflavorist201806 DL

Developing Better Products
through Natural Chemistry

Penta Manufacturing Company is Family Owned and Operated for Over 40 Years.
Here is a partial listing of our Family of Natural Terpene ingredients utilized in flavor & fragrance formulations.
For a complete list of all our natural, natural identical and synthetic ingredients visit us at www.pentamfg.com
■■ALPHA-BISABOLOL ■■CAMPHENE ■■GAMMA-TERPINENE ■■OCIMENE

■■ALPHA-CARYOPHYLLENE ■■CEDRENE ■■GERANIOL ■■PHYTOL
■■ALPHA-PHELLANDRENE ■■CITRAL ■■LINALOOL ■■SABINENE
■■ALPHA-PINENE ■■DELTA-3-CARENE ■■L-LIMONENE ■■TERPINEOL
■■BETA-CARYOPHYLLENE ■■D-LIMONENE ■■MYRCENE ■■TERPINOLENE
■■BETA-PINENE ■■EUCALYPTOL ■■NEROL ■■VALENCENE
■■BISABOLENE ■■FARNESENE ■■NOOTKATONE CRYSTALS
■■BORNEOL ■■FENCHYL ALCOHOL ■■NOOTKATONE LIQUID
For a complete list of all our natural, natural identical and synthetic ingredients
visit us at our www.pentamfg.com
Penta Manufacturing Company

A Division of Penta International Corporation
50 Okner Parkway, Livingston, New Jersey 07039-1604 Phone: (973) 740-2300 Fax: (973) 740-1839
E-Mail: sales@pentamfg.com Web: www.pentamfg.com
PF1806_penta_june2018.indd 1 5/1/18 3:52 PM

June 2018 | Vol. 43 no. 6
www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
MINT &
ORAL CARE
ISIPCA: Educating
F&F Students
Fragrance Ingredient
Communication
Genderless
Fragrances
PF1806_cover.indd 1 5/11/18 1:31 PM

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CONTENTS VOL. 43, NO. 6 | JUNE 2018
FLAVOR
36 20 cis-3-Hexenyl
Flavor Bites: cis-3-Hexenyl 2-methyl butyrate
2-methyl butyrate is a rich and powerful green
note that has a fruity component and subtle hints of apples
and tropical fruits.
By John Wright
30 Rediscovering the Mint Market

The drive behind mint is rooted in the growing demand for
traceable and sustainable natural mint, while developing
new innovations in sensory research and a more refined
understanding of regional preferences.
By Deniz Ataman
36 The Mint Condition in Oral Care
50 The innovation space you never knew about.

By Steve Pringle
36 [From the Vault] Mint: The Free E-Book

According to Research and Markets, the global market for
mint is projected at a CAGR of 11.4% from 2015 to 2020.
Compare that to the overall flavor and fragrance market,
projected at just 3.6% during the same period. What do these
numbers tell us? That despite its cooling effects, mint is
hot and getting hotter. But why? This free e-book compiled
from Perfumer & Flavorist, sponsored by Callisons, explains.
Download it today!
Visit perfumerflavorist.texterity.com for your Digital Edition.
60 Organoleptic Characteristics of Flavor Materials

This month’s column features discussions on cocoa shell
extract, grapefruit oil CP, coffee oil natural and more.
By Judith Michalski
FRAGRANCE
24 As
The Juice: Training the F&F Students of the Future
the only institution in the world with an accredited
30
Master’s program in perfumery, ISIPCA along with industry
collaborator, IFF, take a unique approach in training the
future perfumers, evaluators and even flavorists of tomorrow.
By Pia Long
44 The Rise of the Third Option

Through its modern style, inclusive nature and fresh take on
scent, unisex fragrances are breaking fragrance traditions
and creating new opportunities.
By Ryan Daily
50 What’s on Tap at Perfumarie–?

P&F sits down with Mindy Yang to discuss Perfumarie–:
a New York-based fragrance studio that offers a unique
educational opportunity for both customers and brands,
while shaking up the traditional business model.
44
By Deniz Ataman
2 Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF1806_TOC-Masthead_fcx.indd 2 5/11/18 1:39 PM

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24
EDITORIAL
Editor in Chief Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com
Managing Editor Deniz Ataman | 1-630-344-6070/dataman@allured.com
Assistant Editor Ryan Daily | 1-630-344-6058/rdaily@allured.com
News Editor Eden Stuart | 1-630-344-6053/estuart@allured.com
ADVERTISING SALES
Associate Publisher Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com
Advertising Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com
AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
Marketing Specialist Alyssa Derby
Customer Service
54
1-866-366-9220/customerservice@perfumerflavorist.com
Fragrance Ingredient Communication:
Negotiating and Implementing California’s DESIGN
Graphic Design Manager Lisa Hede
SB 258 Senior Graphic Designer Hon Bannapradist
Also known as the Cleaning Products Right to
Production Manager Bryan Crowe
Know Act, SB 258 presented an opportunity for the
International Fragrance Association North America CORPORATE
to engage all stakeholders for meaningful fragrance Partner & CEO George Fox
ingredient communication. Partner & President Janet Ludwig
By Amanda Nguyen CFO Rich Winters
Director of Events Maria Prior
DE1 [Podcast] Two Sense Visits The Perfumer’s Studio Digital Products Director Rose Southard
In the recent Two Sense podcast, P&F visits Executive Assistant Maria Romero
Christopher Gordon, general manager, The
Perfumer’s Studio in California to talk everything
perfume.
Visit perfumerflavorist.texterity.com for your OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS
Digital Edition. Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference
Allured Business Media Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
1-630-653-2155 • fax 1-630-653-2192 Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition
Global Cosmetic Industry magazine
INDUSTRY 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A
Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA
Face & Body Midwest spa expo and conference
Face & Body Northern California spa expo and conference
www.Allured.com
6 Editor’s Note: The New Mint Story Face & Body Southeast spa expo and conference
Flavorcon
8 Product Round Up: Mint Ingredients Skin Inc. magazine

World Perfumery Congress
10 Industry: News, Events and Analysis

10 [video] Securing a Natural Supply with
Indukern’s Jorge Miralles SUBSCRIPTIONS
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16 Events Print subscriptions are free to qualified individuals in the United States.
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fax: 1-630-653-2192 • e-mail: perfumer@allured.com Other products brought to you by Allured:
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4 Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF1806_TOC-Masthead_fcx.indd 4 5/11/18 1:39 PM

i-
ENVIRONMENTAL
AWARD
2016

Editor’s Note
Mint’s New Story
O
ne of the stories
behind mint’s
origins is based
on the Greek
myth of Minthe, a nymph
of rivers, streams, lakes,
fountains and springs, who
happened to dazzle the god
DENIZ ATAMAN of the underworld, Hades,
Managing Editor one day with her youthful
dataman@allured.com presence. Naturally, he fell
in love with her charms. His
wife, Persephone, powerful
P&F Magazine goddess of the underworld
Editorial Advisory Board (who was also kidnapped
by Hades), was furious
DOLF DEROVIRA and filled with jealousy at
President and CEO, this relationship. Her rage
Flavor Dynamics, Inc. led her to turn Minthe into the herb, while Hades added the fragrance due
to his inability to reverse the spell. Minthe’s presence and scent were then
PATRICK DUNPHY, PH.D. widespread and later used in many ancient Greek rituals, including funeral
Independent Vanilla and rites to counter the scent of decay and in the fermented barley beverage,
Flavor Consultant
kykeon, which offered a sensation of hope in the afterlife.
MATTHIAS GUENTERT, PH.D. A pervasive and hearty herb, mint has been used in culinary and medici-
Independent Flavor and Food nal practices for centuries, with a rich presence in folklore. Despite its
Consultant dynamic history, mint was only recognized as a distinct species in the late
17th century. Along with its cooling properties, mint’s popularity in flavored
BRIAN M. LAWRENCE and fragranced products is certainly a source of innovation.
Natural Products Editor, This issue we take a look at mint as an innovative space in oral care and
Perfumer & Flavorist magazine; how it’s driving this segment (page 36), particularly in sensorial research.
Editor-in-Chief,
By 2025, the global oral care market is expected to reach $40.92 billion
Journal of Essential Oil Research
with a CAGR of 4.8%a. The Americas and Europe are driving growth in
JUDITH MICHALSKI more targeted functional oral care products (think tartar/plaque control,
Senior Flavorist, abelei Flavors sensitivity and whitening among others); whereas Asia, the Middle East and
Africa are driven by total care products as education in personal hygiene
LESLIE SMITH, PH.D. reaches emerging markets (page 30).
President, Leslie C. Smith Consulting Though not as devastating as citrus greening, verticillium wilt and powdery
mildew are driving forces behind growing stronger, more disease-resistant
JOHN WRIGHT
varieties. As the mint market continues to grow in variety and product
Independent Flavorist and Author
innovation, it’s no wonder Minthe’s charms are still affecting us today.
KATE WILLIAMS I hope you enjoy this issue.
Creative Perfumer
With warmth from New York City,
JOHN CAVALLO, PH.D.
Chief Technology Officer,
Citrus and Allied Essences;
Vice President,
Global Business Development, Deniz Ataman
Trilogy Essential Ingredients Managing Editor
a Grand View Research: Global Oral Care Market Report
6 Editor’s Note Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF1806_EdNote_fcx.indd 6 5/14/18 4:27 PM

-~~-iR
- - - maJui .an 9.mpad

Product Roundup [Raw Materials, Equipment & Services]
Mint Ingredients
1. Isopulegol
Natural Advantage
www.natural-advantage.net
1 2
Natural Advantage introduces natural isopulegol (FEMA# 2962, CAS# 89-
79-2). This material occurs naturally in peppermint and rum. Isopulegol gives
a minty coolness without the burn of menthol. Although the material has little
inherent flavor, it imparts green peppermint, spearmint and herbaceous mint
characters into flavors. This product also brings forth minty odors with a hint
of piney sweetness and woody notes. Isopulegol is perfect for mint and tea
flavors, cooling and freshness enhancement in oral care products, and even
fruit flavors such as grape, raspberry and lime.
2. Symcool®WS-5-N-(Ethoxycarbonylmethyl)-3-p-
menthane-carboxamide
Symrise AG
www.symrise.com
3 4
Symcool WS-5 (FEMA# 4309, CAS# 68489-14-5) is one of the strongest
commercially available cooling agents and offers excellent cost in use.
Symrise’s patented process offers high-purity WS-5 free from bitter notes.
Used in a variety of fruit flavors, it adds freshness and juiciness. In mints,
it increases cooling and a clean sensation.
3. Coolact 10
Takasago International Corporation
www.takasago.com
Fresh and slightly-minty odor, Coolact 10 gives a long-lasting cooling
sensation to oral care and personal care application. In combination with
other sensate materials, it can provide a synergistic effect on the strength
and length of coolness. In addition, compared with other long-lasting cooling
materials, Coolact 10 is more stable. 5
4. Cyclopentanone, ≥99%, FG
MilliporeSigma
www.sigmaaldrich.com
Cyclopentanone (FEMA# 3910, CAS# 120-92-3) provides a refreshing
minty note to flavor formulations. Our product is certified food grade, halal
and kosher.
5. North American Peppermint Oils

Callisons
www.callisons.com
These are versatile products with unique features to fit any application. Direct
from the fields of the North American growing regions, the mint is sustainably
grown and harvested. This process results in each regional oil having its own
distinct flavor profile. Ideal applications include oral care, chewing gum and
6
confectionery.
6. Excellence in Mints
Firmenich
www.firmenich.com
With our partner Essex Laboratories, in Washington State, the capital of
peppermint and spearmint for the U.S., we co-created tailor-made mint
varieties to supply our customers and delight consumers without GMOs and
with the utmost respect for the environment. Marrying outstanding innovation
and traditional farming allows us to provide the best of both worlds.
8 Product Roundup Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF1806_Roundup_fcx.indd 8 5/11/18 1:43 PM

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Industry
Event Coverage
FlavourTalks 2018 Explores the Future

of Flavors in Europe
T
his year’s 10th annual FlavourTalks,
which took place March 14-15, 2018,
at the Barbizon Palace Hotel in
Amsterdam, Netherlands focused on
the theme “The Future of Flavors in
Europe – Opportunities, Trends and Challenges,”
with keynote speaker Professor Charles Spence,
head of the crossmodal research laboratory,
University of Oxford. The event featured 28
exhibitors who presented 240 materials, a new
record for the exhibition, according to the event
organizer, David Baines.
Citrus Takes Center Stage

Among the highlights that reflected the innovative
wellness space explored by flavor companies were
allergen-free nut flavors, clean label, fermented and
ingredients typically reserved for fragrances. Citrus,
floral and tropical flavors were among the most The natural nootkatone (70% by fermentation) was
popular to taste. described as a clear, yellow liquid having a typical
Citrus was spotlighted throughout the tabletops. grapefruit woody top note and grapefruit woody
Due to the current volatile state of the industry, taste. Natural valencene (75% by fermentation),
companies were presenting citrus replacers and cost- a clear colorless liquid, exhibited a sweet woody
effective naturals via fermentation. orange top note and a standard orange taste.
Bedoukian’s pomelo aldehyde is currently under Treatt featured two grapefruit oils that offered
consideration for FEMA approval and EU regula- price stability in a volatile citrus market. The grape-
tions. The molecule was presented on a blotter and fruit oil white natural is described as sustainable
exhibited a fresh grapefruit character with other with a true-to-flavor profile; whereas the grapefruit
waxy citrus peel notes, which can be used to enhance oil sweetie type is a cost-effective alternative to the
fresh, juicy pulpy notes in citrus flavors, such as natural oil.
grapefruit and pomelo. Lluch Essences’ folded lemon oils used patented
Dohler’s citrus replacers are designed to develop processes to obtain the full aromatic profile of the
a range of standard to premium juices. As citrus oils. The company featured its folded lemon oil (5X)
greening continues to wreak havoc on Florida’s citrus premium and folded lemon oil (10X) premium. Also
crops, the company’s portfolio of oils, essences and featured was West African ginger oil obtained by
fractions adjust juice profiles ranging from juicy, steam distillation. Rich in citral aldehydes, the oil
fleshy, sweet, peely and green. The company also fea- was described as clean and fresh.
tured cashew, which exhibits a fruity and juicy taste; Orris was a popular flavor ingredient, particu-
as well as acerola, which imparts woody and fruity larly in beverages. IFF LMR, Omega Ingredients,
notes; and finally, green and fresh watermelon. Biolandes and Firmenich featured the floral ingre-
Isobionics highlighted its range of fermented and dient as a possible application in seltzer and juice
pesticide-free nootkatone and valencene materials. beverages. Firmenich’s orriscience CTE 8% exhibits
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2018 Allured Business Media.
10 Industry Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF1806_Industry_fcx.indd 10 5/11/18 2:23 PM

exhibited several quinoa materials, one of which was
the quinoa extract o/s that exhibited an intensely
roasted characteristic with a hint of coumarin.
The full list of exhibitors at the 2018 exhibition is
shown below:
EXHIBITORS AMSTERDAM 2018

• ACS International
• Advanced Biotech Europe
• Bedoukian Research
• Besmoke
• Biolandes
• Capua
• De Monchy Aromatics
• Destilla Flavours & Extracts
• Döhler
• Firmenich
• Frutarom F&F Ingredients
powdery, floral, creamy notes with a long-lasting • Horner International
effect and works well in red exotic fruit flavors. • IFF LMR Naturals
Biolandes’ orris absolute lands 68% irone was • Isobionics
described as a floral-violet with woody and fatty • Lionel Hitchen Essential Oils
characteristics. • Lluch Essence
• Mane
• Merck (Sigma-Aldrich)
Savory Solutions Made Simple
• MCI Miritz Citrus
Savory and spicy were featured prominently, with • Naturex
a focus on peppers and smoky flavors, a reflection • Omega Ingredients
of the growing consumer demand for new flavors • Riverside Aromatics
and tastes in the category. According to a Market • Robertet
Insights report, the global meat flavors market is • Solvay
expected to grow at a CAGR of 5.8% from 2018 to • Symrise
2023. Additionally, the global natural meat flavoring • Synerzine
market accounted for $833.03 million in 2016 and • Synthite
expected to grow at a record CAGR of 6.4% during • Treatt
the forecast period.
Mane presented its range of concentrated juices
and extracts, including boiled chicken concentrated Day Two: The Future of Flavors in
juice, boiled beef concentrated juice and a locally
sourced onion concentrate juice from its partner
Europe – Opportunities, Trends and
Agrival in Brittany, France. The company also fea- Challenges
tured a white fish extract, which exhibited a codfish
profile, and a green crab extract that exhibited Gastronomy and Psychophysics
crab flesh and shell notes to seafood applications. Flavor reception resides mainly in the mind, not
Robertet featured its range of pepper CO2 extrac- the mouth, keynote, Charles Spence explained. Our
tions, some exhibiting floral tastes and cooling expectation is anchored by stimuli that influences
effects in select applications. The Tasmanian pepper our experience and perception of the material we’re
CO2 extract exhibited a basillike flavor with a tingle, consuming. Spence looks at multisensory stimuli
while the Bengal CO2 pepper exhibited balsamic and within our dining environment as a way to under-
cinnamic characteristics with a spicy aftertaste. stand how we taste. Whether it’s an amuse-bouche
On the clean label side, Destilla featured a of color to denote taste sensation (which drink color
range of allergen-free nut-related products. As the looks sweeter?) or the crunchy, crackly, squeaky
“godfather of wheat,” einkhorn wheat distillate sound we hear when we taste, Spence explained
(also gluten-free) exhibits a dry and savory taste, how psychological and gastrophysics research can
reminiscent of rice cakes or popcorn. The company enhance product innovation.
11

Industry
Case in point: “Why does no one like a soggy Future Flavor Trends
crisp?” he asked to an amused audience. “We’re so focused on the here and now…we need
Spence explained that mood and environment to look to the past to understand the next round
influence perception through a few noteworthy of trends,” Jamie Rice, director of marketing and
examples. The Singleton Sensorium presents three business development, FoodTrending explained. Rice
different environments to enhance different notes of discussed the move from consuming natural materi-
whiskey: a very green nature-inspired room, a red als in an agriculture-based society to packaged and
round room and a woody room. The study found processed foods during the Industrial Revolution.
that based on the room, the whiskey’s grassy, sweet Now, food trends have returned to natural, creating
and woody notes, respectively, were enhanced. new innovations and obstacles for the flavor and
Another example from the Hard Rock Café in food industries.
Ibiza has chefs creating multisensory environments Trends are key to adding value and targeting
to enhance tastes. Based on the menu, the room is strategic growth opportunities. In order to create
entirely transformed using visual, audio and olfac- growth, trends must be forward-looking, curated
tory cues to highlight flavors in each dish. and underpinned by rationale. Sweet and fruit
Guests at the Fat Duck in Bray, Berkshire, flavors are leading the market, followed by industrial
England found that seafood tastes better when they seasonings/herbs/spices, and flavoring materials and
can hear the sound of the sea. These sounds trigger extracts. Rice noted the top six flavor segments and
memories and emotions that improve the flavor its market share below:
without an increase in salt perception.
Aside from creating an enjoyable dining experi- • Sweet and fruit flavors: e1,812 million
ence, multisensory atmospheres offer insight on • Industrial Seasoning, herbs and spices:
innovation in areas where taste experience is poor e1.7 million
or limited, such as hospitals and airplanes. Spence • Flavoring materials and extracts: e838 million
explained that in planes, 80 decibels of noise from • Savory: e572 million (including high impact
the engines enhance umami flavor; hence the popu- aroma chemicals in savory and brown)
larity of tomato juice and Bloody Mary’s on flights. • Marinades, rubs and glazes: e246 million
By bringing together all of our senses, we (including wet and dry sauces)
can better understand flavors and how we taste.
“Experimentation online, in restaurants and in the
Food choices are endless with an expanding
lab, can help us understand our flavor experience,”
customer base and flexibility in consumer prefer-
Spence concluded.
ences, and flavor trends are expected to represent the
most significant opportunities in food and beverage.
Sensory and Consumer Research: New These factors are influenced by a global decrease
Perspectives in the food and drink market (a total growth of 1%
How does our environment impact our liking annually); static to declining category growth due
and food choice? Tracey Sanderson of Sensory to a challenge to break out; and extreme market
Dimensions, a UK-based sensory research firm, fragmentation.
studied the link between contextual appropri Rice explains how the market share of multinat
ateness and liking in a lab setting using immersive ionals is now at 2% due to the rise of smaller,
technologies. innovative brands. These brands are focused on
When people move to a representative environ- added value including organic, fair share and
ment, their desires change, Sanderson explained. The eco-friendly, which challenges the larger
context of an environment (e.g. a space recreated to companies to differentiate themselves
look like a cozy living room) induced differences in from commodity items. Driven by
overall liking and predicted usage occasions in prod- wellness and personalization, the
ucts. Sanderson’s lab hypothesized that testing in current flavor trends include:
an appropriate context may be more likely to reveal
real-life product performances. • Bolognasia: Home-
Additionally, the use of implicit questionnaires inspired flavors are
and measuring reaction time together showed more trending as health
varied emotional profiles from the individuals, which awareness growth,
is ideal for product testing and packaging. Though and consumers are
the study showed different emotional profiles, looking into spices as
Sanderson noted that it needs repeating. healthier options.

• Mindfulness: Food is used as a healthy halo, among other headspace methods, Siegmund’s team
and flavors are used as functional foods to discovered novel compounds in dandelion honey
promote mental and physical health. Natural, for the first time. Additionally, the data found a high
ethical, local and sustainable production also fall correlation between data from flavor chemistry and
into this category. sensory evaluation in various honeys.
• Retail Bypass: Technology is now a liaison Linden honey, for example, showed unexpected
between companies and people. Direct-to- fresh and minty compounds, along with its notable
consumer like recipe boxes, offer personalization characteristics of floral and citrus. Siegmund
and flexibility. concluded that flavor chemistry, along with the use
• Waste Not, Waist Not: Eliminating food waste of flavor analysis and evaluation, allows for a deeper
and improving dietary habits will affect product molecular understanding.
innovation and manufacturing.
• Kitchen Style Production: Small production
Traditional Curing of Whole Vanilla Beans
processes on a large scale are key in developing
the small-batch trend. Vanilla expert, Patrick Dunphy, PhD, MRSC,
discussed the various processes of vanilla curing and
A combination of technology and naturals play a how traditional curing allows for the highest yield of
key role in moving these trends forward. However, vanillin in the crop. He explained that farmers hold
they are not mutually exclusive, and in fact would be a significant weight on their shoulders in producing
unsustainable on their own, Rice explained. high-quality vanilla due to unstable conditions includ-
ing environmental changes and theft among others.
However, due to market pressure, uneven distribution
Flavor Analysis and Sensory Evaluation as Tools to of profits, lack of income and needs, and even theft of
Understand the Flavor of Food immature beans, many farmers are incorrectly curing
Professor Barbara Siegmund, Graz University of their vanilla, leading to a gradual decline in bean
Technology discussed her team’s research on using quality. This decline in bean quality is reflected in
GC as the method of choice for volatile compound reduced vanillin levels of <1% d.w.
analysis to understand flavor/off-flavors on a molecu- Solutions begin with empowering the farmer and
lar basis. investing in crop diversification, such as cocoa and
Her investigation of volatile compounds in coffee. Dunphy suggested that an increase of income
unifloral honeys found that only compounds with from various cash crops will alleviate the rush to push
an odor activity value of <1 can be used for flavor. uncured, young beans to market. This will enable
Using various analytic techniques including solid- farmers with the skills for pre-curing and curing to
phase, SAFE distillation, solid phase microextraction ultimately ensure high levels of vanillin.
13

Industry
INDUSTRY NEWS
Givaudan Reaffirms 2020 Goals, Releases Q1 2018 Results

Givaudan has released details for its 2018 first
quarter financials, which included recorded sales of
CHF 1,308 million, an increase of 5.0% on a like-
for-like basis.
Reaffirming 2020 Goals

Starting the year with good business momentum,
growth was achieved across all product segments
and geographies and attributed to recent acquisi-
tions and planned price increases. The company
reaffirmed its 2020 goals, which is built on three Flavors by Region
pillars – growing with its customers, delivering
In the flavor division, the category reported sales
with excellence and partnering for shared success.
of CHF 704 million, an increase of 4.5% on a like-
Givaudan also plans to outpace the market with
for-like basis and 5.8% in Swiss francs. Growth in
4-5% sales growth and a free cash flow of 12-17% of
the flavor division was attributed to strong business
sales, both measured as an average over the five-year
momentum across all regions and particular interest
period of its strategic cycle.
in dairy, beverage, savory and sweet goods.
Additionally, Givaudan saw growth in all major
Fragrance Division Flourishes
regions, which included:
In addition to releasing details on overall seg-
ments, Givaudan reported details separately on its • Sales in Europe, Africa and Middle East increased
fragrance and flavor divisions. by 4.0% on a like-for-like basis. The mature
The fragrance division saw recorded sales of markets of Western and Central Europe led strong
CHF 604 million, a growth of 5.7% on a like-for- growth, along with growth in Central and East
like basis and an increase of 4.9% in Swiss francs. Africa, Egypt, Russia and Turkey regions.
Leading this growth was fine fragrances, which saw • Sales in Asia Pacific increased by 7.7% on a
a sales increase of 15.2% on a like-for-like basis like-for-like basis. High growth markets, driven
with growth recorded in all regions, and consumer by China and India, grew double-digit due to
products sales, which increased by 2.9% on a business expansion and new wins. Additionally,
like-for-like basis with growth in mature and high Oceania and Singapore exhibited a strong
growth markets. performance.
Per region, Europe, Africa and the Middle • Sales in Latin America increased by 9.2% on a
East recorded strong sales, where North America like-for-like basis. All markets in the region saw
reported slightly lower sales compared with last high performance, with strong momentum from
year’s double-digit comparable. Additionally, Asia Argentina and Mexico and a recovering Brazil.
delivered strong growth driven by customer groups • Sales in North America increased by 1.3% on a
across all sub-regions, while Latin America saw a like-for-like basis against a strong comparable
slight decline in sales. in 2017.

PEOPLE NEWS
ZoomEssence Adds to Culinary Innovation Team

ZoomEssence (Zoom) has
announced the appointments of
Jeff Stop as research chef and
Duncan Fader as vice president of
strategic accounts.
In his new role, Stopa will lead
the company’s culinary innovation
efforts, specifically showcasing its
DriZoom powder flavors in bakery,
savory, snack and food service
applications. He joins Zoom from
Wild Flavors, where he served as a
senior scientist and research chef,
focusing on optimizing flavor and
color applications in sweet and
Jeff Stop, research chef Duncan Fader, vice president of strategic accounts
savory finished products.
Fader most recently served as vice president of
sales at Coffee Flour, where he spearheaded the America. In his new position, he will be charged
acquisition of distributors and sales partners for a with continuing the expansion of Zoom’s commer-
new sustainable coffee flour product. Previously, cial efforts in the food service, snacks, bakery and
he served as regional sales manager at Matsutani confectionery markets.
MARKET AND TREND NEWS
qii Releases New Oral Beverage Flavors

Toronto start-up DoseBiome has
announced the addition of three new
flavors to its qii line of functional drink for
oral health.
Joining its original lineup of lemongrass
ginger and oolong tea, the new beverages
flavors include white peach, pomegranate
and lychee tea.
“The oral microbiome is an emerging
area of research centered around the rela-
tionship between beneficial and harmful
bacteria,” said founder Ted Jin. “Our team
is comprised of PhDs from the fields of microbiol- bacteria from building up on teeth — the cause of
ogy, food science and dentistry who are dedicated to cavities. In addition to providing oral health benefits,
finding innovative ways to improve oral health. In the beverage is formulated to be non-GMO, vegan,
understanding harmful bacteria and how they form gluten-free, soy-free and low-glycemic.
plaque, we have effectively found ways to reduce “It just made sense – trying to take the bad habit
both, leading to the development of qii.” of drinking sugary beverages and replacing it with a
Designed with its XyVita propriety ingredient, good habit that satisfies your craving and takes care
qii provides a neutral pH of seven, which prevents of your mouth,” said Jin.
15

Industry
Kickback Cold Brew Launches CBD-Infused Cold Brew Tea

Los Angeles-based Kickback Cold Brew has
released its line of cannabidiol (CBD) infused cold
brew tea beverages.
“Our team diligently experimented with many
different organic teas from across the world before
finalizing our new flavors,” said Pierre Real, co-
founder and CEO of Kickback Cold Brew.
Similar to its original cold brew coffees, the
line of teas was created with organic and vegan
single-origin ingredients, along with organically
extracted CBD. Currently, the cold brew tea comes in
Matcha’cha and Just Peachy flavors. The Matcha’cha
tea is a matcha-based beverage with almond milk,
monk fruit sweetener and CBD, while the Just
Peachy flavor is a black tea beverage with peach,
ginger and honey. brews enhances the flavors of our coffee and tea.
“While CBD oil works in giving users the ‘func- Organically extracted CBD is here to stay for us and
tional chill’ feeling when combined with caffeine, we’re proud to be the pioneers of this movement in
water-soluble CBD’s strong miscibility with our cold the industry,” said Real.
Juliette Has a Gun Releases Moscow Mule-Inspired Fragrance

Inspired by the classic cocktail, the fragrance is a citrusy woody
fragrance that blends a vodka accord with fresh ginger and a twist of lime.
Available in a 50 mL or 100 mL bottle, Moscow Mule contains notes of
ginger, lime and bergamot; heart notes of sandalwood, apple and amber;
and base notes of ambroxan, ambretolide and norlimbanol.
“I had in my mind the idea of a fragrance that evoked the vibrations
and euphoria of the famous Moscow Mule cocktail. A fresh and exhilarat-
ing composition that associates ginger with copper. These two elements
inspired me for both the container and the formula: ginger for the model
featured in the campaign and her mysterious red hair color. Copper
because the cocktail is usually served in copper mugs,” said Romano
Ricci, creator of the fragrance.
Events
More events are posted at www.PerfumerFlavorist.com/events. Filter events by topic and region; submit event announcements;
access exclusive event coverage and photo albums.
June 5–7—World Perfumery Congress; Palais des Congrès September 9–13—IFEAT Conference; Colombia, South America;
Nice Acropolis, Nice, France; wpc.perfumerflavorist.com www.ifeat.org
June 12—Fragrance Foundation Awards; New York City, NY; September 18–21—Bioflavour Conference; Frankfurt, Germany;
www.fragrance.org www.dechema.de
June 21—WFFC Recognition Awards Dinner; Jersey City, NJ; October 25–28—NAFFS 101st Annual Convention; Longboat Key,
www.wffc.org FL; www.naffs.org
July 15–18—IFT 2018; Chicago, IL; www.ift.org November 13–15—Flavorcon; Atlantic City, NJ; www.flavorcon.com

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Flavor Bites: cis-3-Hexenyl
2-methyl butyrate
cis-3-Hexenyl 2-methyl butyrate is a rich and powerful
green note that has a fruity component and subtle hints of
apples and tropical fruits.
O
BY JOHN WRIGHT
johnwrightflavorist@gmail.com ne of the first fruits of the creative revolution driven by the
use of gas chromatography was a very well constructed
strawberry flavor from Esrolko, a Zurich Swiss flavor
company that became the core of Givaudan’s flavor business.
The heart of this flavor was the fresh green top note derived
simply from cis-3-hexenol. For other flavor companies, the challenge was
clear – how to beat this newcomer?
Analysis of strawberries offered one promising option. In nature, the
green top note in fresh strawberries is derived from a hugely complex
mixture of chemicals. cis-3-Hexenol clearly played a big part. Nevertheless,
quite a number of cis-3-hexenyl esters were also important (along with
many chemicals not derived from cis-3-hexenol). One good approach was
to try to replicate the complexity of nature and add pretty much everything
found in analyses. This resulted in an obvious increase in authenticity,
but unfortunately it also carried with it a loss of impact caused by over
20 Flavor Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF1806_Wright_fcx.indd 20 5/11/18 2:26 PM

complexity. How to strike the best compromise Berry Flavors
between simplicity and complexity? Everybody Blackberry and Raspberry: cis-3-Hexenyl
has favorites, but in my experience, one of the 2-methyl butyrate forms a useful component, along
most broadly attractive cis-3-hexenyl esters is cis- with cis-3-hexenol, of the green note of both black-
3-hexenyl 2-methyl butyrate (FEMA# 3497, CAS# berry and raspberry flavors. A good starting level is
53398-85-9). This rich and powerful green note has 50 ppm.
a significant fruity component and pleasantly subtle Blackcurrant: In most applications, the fresh,
hints of apples and tropical fruits. green characters of blackcurrant flavors are rather
Note that the dose rates given throughout this subdued and levels of this ingredient as low as 10
article are the levels suggested for use in flavors ppm are all that is required to be effective.
intended to be dosed at 0.05% in ready-to-drink Blueberry: Also, 10 ppm is a useful level of
beverages or in a simple bouillon. cis-3-hexenyl 2-methyl butyrate in blueberry and
bilberry flavors, forming a very effective partnership
Tropical Fruit Flavors with cis-3-hexenyl acetate.
Banana: cis-3-Hexenyl acetate might seem to be Strawberry: Of all the range of berry flavors,
the most obvious choice for a dominant green note strawberry is the sweet spot where cis-3-hexenyl
in banana flavors, but cis-3-hexenyl 2-methyl butyr- 2-methyl butyrate really comes into its own. In my
ate is a better fit to the fruity profile. A good starting opinion, 200 ppm is an ideal starting level but much
point is 100 ppm for ripe banana flavors. higher levels can be used to give unique effects.
Durian: Durian flavors are an unlikely mar-
riage between pungent sulfur top notes and a sweet Other Fruit Flavors
creamy foundation, with very little obvious place for Apple: The rather subtle apple note of cis-
green notes. Despite this, the addition of as little as 3-hexenyl 2-methyl butyrate makes this green note
five ppm of this ingredient lifts the character subtly. especially suitable for all apple flavors. For red apple
Guava: For ripe, fresh guava flavors, 400 ppm of flavors, 300 ppm is a great level, but higher levels are
cis-3-hexenyl 2-methyl butyrate is highly effective. It very effective if a green apple character is required.
can either be used alone or in conjunction with other
green notes.
Kiwi: The green notes in kiwi flavors are often
dominated by cis-3-hexenol and trans-2-hexenal
but, even here, an addition of around 300 ppm of
this ingredient adds welcome depth, realism and
complexity.
Mango: Both the parent alcohol and the acetate
should play the dominant roles in a good mango
flavor, but 100 ppm of cis-3-hexenyl 2-methyl butyrate
adds depth and useful heat stability.
Passionfruit: cis-3-Hexenyl 2-methyl
butyrate has an interesting tropical note
and combines very well with the even
more obviously tropical cis-3-hexenyl
hexanoate in passionfruit flavors. A
good place to start is 100 ppm.
Pineapple: Pineapple flavors vary
in character from fresh to pro-
cessed and the ideal addition of this
ingredients is very dependent on
the profile. A good level in fresh
pineapple flavors is 100 ppm.
Watermelon: Watermelon
flavors are often an uneasy col-
laboration between light tutti-frutti
esters and a harsher melon backdrop. For melon
profiles, 20 ppm of cis-3-hexenyl 2-methyl butyrate
adds freshness and softens the core.
21

Flavor Bites
Apricot and Peach: Fresh apricot and peach

flavors are well served by 100 ppm of this ingredient,
blending well with the parent alcohol and the acetate.
Grape: Grape flavors vary immensely in style.
cis-3-Hexenyl 2-methyl butyrate is most at home
in fresh white grape characters where 100 ppm is
optimal. Lower levels can be used in Concord and
other grape styles.
Pomegranate: Pomegranate flavors
currently have a certain cachet, even
though the character is a little elusive.
A level of 150 ppm of this ingredient
adds freshness to the rather fruity
overall character.
Rhubarb: Rhubarb is much more
of a Northern European specialty than a
global taste. cis-3-Hexenyl 2-methyl butyrate adds
welcome freshness at 300 ppm and avoids an overly
“stewed” character.
Peppermint and Spearmint: Both types of mint
Other Flavors are significantly enhanced by moderate additions
Butter: Only the merest hint of green character of cis-3-hexenyl 2-methyl butyrate. Optimum levels
gives freshness to butter flavors and five ppm of this of addition are similar but perhaps with a small
ingredient is easily enough. differential: 80 ppm in peppermint flavors and 100
Elderflower: Traditional elderflower drinks and ppm in spearmint flavors. Spearmint flavors that
other products are made using fresh flowers and a aim to give a fresh garden mint character should
small addition of cis-3-hexenyl 2-methyl butyrate, use altogether higher levels, 300 ppm and beyond.
around 15 ppm, recreates this freshly picked “hedge- Tea, Black and Green: The beneficial effect of this
row” effect. green note in green tea flavors is self-evident and I
Oregano and Sage: In many fresh herb flavors, think a moderate addition, around 100 ppm, works
15 ppm works well and is particularly effective with best. Less obviously, there is also a significant effect
oregano and sage. in black tea flavors but at a much lower level, around
Peppers, Bell and Jalapeño: Red bell pepper 10 ppm.
flavors are enhanced by levels of cis-3-hexenyl Tomato, Fresh: cis-3-Hexenol is way more impor-
2-methyl butyrate around 30 ppm, but green bell tant than any of its esters in fresh tomato flavors, but
pepper and jalapeño flavors can tolerate higher the addition of 100 ppm of cis-3-hexenyl 2-methyl
levels, 50 ppm and beyond, especially when methoxy butyrate enhances freshness, adds depth and softens
pyrazines are also used. some of the harsh green character of the thiazoles.

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IFF course students with their ISIPCA kits.
All photos courtesy of the author.
The Juice: Training the F&F

Students of the Future
As the only institution in the world with an accredited
Master's program in perfumery, ISIPCA along with industry
collaborator, IFF, take a unique approach in training the future
perfumers, evaluators and even flavorists of tomorrow.
BY PIA LONG
Director, Olfiction Ltd., Pia@Olfiction.com
L
United Kingdom
ast autumn, I visited ISIPCA (Institut supérieur international
du parfum, de la cosmétique et de l’aromatique alimentaire)
in Versailles, and International Flavors and Fragrances’
(IFF) Neuilly offices, for a tour of the new Master of Science
Scent Design and Creation program that the two have jointly
created. I arrived just two weeks after the second intake of students had
received their official ISIPCA kits.
I spoke with tutors, students and IFF professionals about the new
course and what it means to perfume education. I spent time with the
course director, Barbara Gyde (IFF); Cécile Ecalle Montier, managing
director, ISIPCA; and Philippe Dubost, director of education, ISIPCA, to
attend some classes and two of the IFF Insight Sessions.
24 Fragrance Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF1806_Long_fcx.indd 24 5/11/18 2:29 PM

“That moment of the students receiving the kits The historic reasons for France’s dominance in
– it’s very special,” Barbara Gyde enthuses. She has the world of fragrance aren’t enough to explain why
played an integral part in designing the course, its France continues to produce world-leading perfum-
selection process and in the selection of students ers and other scent professionals. There are cultural
themselves: “it signals to them that they’ve really factors which appear to prime children to becoming
started on this path, and it is also the first time they more aware of odors and flavors during their forma-
all meet.” tive years, and an interest in fragrance is a kind of
It is worth noting that this is the first program self-fulfilling prophecy – its presence in the public
of its kind offered in English and since it has been consciousness and everyday living begets more of the
designed in collaboration with ISIPCA—the only same. This is not to say that only France can produce
institution in the world with an accredited Master's excellent fragrance professionals (although this is
program in perfumery—the approach is unique. IFF often how the scenario is erroneously presented),
continues to have in-house training programs and but it does mean that being born French gives you
the students of this course are not recruited to IFF an advantage because you have a better chance
automatically – instead, they receive their MSc from of accessing the industry from a country whose
ISIPCA and are offered internships at IFF during educational systems are already linked to it. ISIPCA
their second and third year, therefore giving the collaborates directly with more than one university,
students a chance to explore their career options with the science portion of the degree handled by the
freely, but also giving IFF opportunities to identify university, and the specialist, industry-specific areas
and engage talent for any upcoming vacancies in a covered at ISIPCA.
variety of olfactive and related roles across the world. Another exciting reason to keep an eye on the IFF
This method of training future perfumers, evalua- program is, therefore, what it will do to levelling the
tors and other fragrance professionals represents a playing field over the coming years – putting an inter-
paradigm-shift. national group of students together in the heartland
25

The Juice
of perfumery for a Master's course of this kind, and Consumers are increasingly interested in how
having all the teaching in English, could result in their products are made, and who makes them.
changes to the industry that we are yet to anticipate. Many brands still leave out or obfuscate the per-
fumer entirely. Large fast-moving consumer goods
Myth Versus Reality brands don’t want to break the consumer product-
Perfumers have been hidden and deliberately equivalent of the fourth wall and reveal too much of
mythologized since the beginning of perfumery. In the myth behind the magic.
many ways, this is beneficial to marketers – we all For a young hopeful, wishing to enter the world of
know that consumers love stories and magic. fragrance, this can be a confusing mix – and a little
This does present some problems with new bit of a hidden stumbling point: how would anyone
career hopefuls – because often you have to unpick outside of the industry know that their perfect career
certain concepts before you can start and introduce could be an R&D perfumer or an evaluator, when
students to the realities of the fragrance world. Ideas most people aren’t really aware these jobs exist,
of perfumers as troubled geniuses, spending their much less what traits in a person would make them
days wandering through lavender fields in eccentric suitable for such a role? How can someone really
jackets or being born as undiscovered talents, ready know if they would make a great fine fragrance
to become famous, once discovered, can infiltrate the perfumer when their image of the profession and the
subconscious expectations of even the more edu- day-to-day reality is likely quite distorted?
cated fragrance enthusiast. IFF has been steadily evolving their approach to
On the other hand, modern marketing demands media relations, relaunching their brand and social
the ability for perfumers to at least be presentable media channels in 2015. They have been running
and articulate story-tellers – because not only are speed smelling sessions for journalists, creating
there more reasons for brands to put the perfumer in more direct contact with perfumers to help shape
the spotlight these days, but working in fast-moving the public’s perception of the profession. Now, with
corporate environments, while also being highly the Master's of Scent Design and Creation, they are
creative, means that you need a very unique mixture looking to innovate the training of the perfumers and
of characteristics in a person to thrive. evaluators of the future.
ISIPCA
Founded in 1970 by Jean-
Jacques Guerlain, ISIPCA
is situated on secluded
grounds in Versailles, about
30 minutes from central
Paris. The school itself occu-
pies several buildings, one of
which has now been partly
dedicated to IFF’s activities.
The building IFF students
occupy used to be a private
residence, and the rooms
that are now their fragrance
laboratories were converted
from a ballroom.
ISIPCA itself is somewhat
obfuscated in the percep-
tion of the public who know
about it – it is much more
than a perfumery school,
and actually describing it
as such would do it a dis-
service. Both because the
courses offered are much
more varied, and because
the aim of the institution
Students can take a short trip over to Paris to visit Le Grand Musée du Parfum to explore perfume history.
is to prepare employees for

the industries it serves and to provide on-the-job
training as a trainee perfumer, cosmetic scientist or
a flavorist. It aims to prepare students for the rigors
of laboratory best practice, handling of raw materi-
als, understanding of necessary chemistry concepts
– and much more – in a way that companies actually
need their future employees to be. ISIPCA’s approach
is therefore not purely academic; it is a mixture of
pragmatic and academic.
Its prospectus includes a foundation degree
where for the first two years of the course, students
cover both fragrance and cosmetic science, and only
choose a specialty on their last year.
“We prepare people for becoming evaluators, for
becoming quality control managers and flavorists
– not just perfumers. We have courses from the
beginner level to the perfumer level and we cover
all the different steps between the perfumer and the
technician – teaching people how to prepare the
ingredients, make dilutions and compound in the
lab,” explains Philippe Dubost.
Indeed, the school houses several laboratory
environments, specific to the task at hand: the flavor
laboratory has two parts – the area for mixing flavor
ingredients, and the area for cooking (flavorists’
version of application testing). “We must taste what
we create, just as we must smell what we create,
too,” says Philippe, “and we also teach students Founded in 1970 by Jean-Jacques Guerlain, ISIPCA's grounds consists of several buildings,
one of which is partly dedicated to IFF's activities.
how to develop consumer panel tests.” Indeed, the
school has some of the same facilities for scent
evaluation as you would see in leading fragrance although the first year’s intake included two stu-
companies, including evaluation booths and olfac- dents with no previous science background. “We do
tive testing areas. look at the overall application and the suitability
There is a high level of industry collaboration and of the whole profile. If the candidates haven’t got
integration, with work placements, internships and a chemistry background, we ask them to complete
other connections. The school is active in shaping an introductory chemistry course prior to starting
the industry, not just passing on existing knowledge. here, just to make sure they will be able to handle
The campus also includes R&D laboratories where the basic concepts,” explains Barbara.
tutors help cancer research and criminal investiga- The tuition fee is e10,000 per annum which is
tions – an obvious place to come to for expertise in actually very reasonable, considering the kinds of
odor-related analysis. fees you have to pay for a Master's in science in other
There are summer schools and continuing profes- institutions, especially ones in the USA. The fee may
sional education, too – one of the fastest-growing seem steeper for students coming from countries
areas in the industry has been regulatory, and where higher education is free.
ISIPCA offers training in this area as well. Applications open in January and close at the end
“Companies are very, very keen to hire people of March. The application forms and the accompa-
with regulatory training,” says Philippe, “and we also nying letters are assessed by both IFF and ISIPCA.
have many companies sending their existing employ- “We are very rigorous in the selection process,” says
ees for courses.” Barbara, “and we look at how attentively they fill out
all parts of the application. There is a letter of moti-
The Curriculum and Candidates vation that’s critical, and that’s really where we really
IFF’s program is a three-year Master's, with the want to see their passion; their commitment; what
first year focusing heavily on raw materials, just like their reason is for wanting to follow this path.”
an internal perfumer training school would. There Once the initial selection has been made,
is a prerequisite of having first earned a science successful candidates are invited to a screening
degree of some kind (preferably in chemistry), interview via Skype.
27

The Juice
in-company expertise via the IFF insight

sessions. These sessions allow students to
learn from and interact with experienced
perfumers and scent design managers
(IFF’s term for an evaluator).
The insight sessions are a particularly
useful way of genuinely preparing students
for the real world – giving direct access
to experienced, working professionals in
a mixture of talks and Q&A sessions. The
opportunity for the students to hear what
it is actually like to work as a scent design
manager or a perfumer from someone
currently working in these roles, and to ask
any kind of question they may have, is an
invaluable resource.
The Global Talent Pool

The arrangement captures best of both
worlds: the famed French know-how, com-
bined with IFF’s expertise.
“I think this course will be a continuing
work in progress. We are learning together,
Students are tested on analytical abilities and distinguishing scents during the screening process.
and learning from the students, too, because
the mix is so interesting,” Barbara says.
The ones who pass that stage are put through an Ultimately, since it takes so long for a perfumer
olfactive intelligence test: “The candidates that we to mature from a trainee to a professional, and
select from screening are invited to an IFF creative since businesses need to plan ahead, it makes sense
center where they take the olfactive intelligence test to try different approaches to succession planning
which is a trademarked test developed by IFF. We and strategic business planning. This way students
think it’s the most intense in the industry and it’s pay for their own training and upkeep, while IFF
four and a half hours long. It measures two areas: supports their progress without committing to
their ability to distinguish and remember scents, and any individual until their skills are developed and
their analytical abilities. So there are two scores. And assessed. Fragrance businesses are continuing to
they need to have a certain grade – a certain level of search for talent from developed and emerging
native olfactive ability – to pass,” Barbara explains. regions, but a global approach hasn’t always been
In IFF’s inaugural year at ISIPCA, 13 students sufficient to reach everyone they could have.
were selected and 20 students for the second. There are upcoming vacancies in IFF, which will
“Students may end up taking different paths than most likely be fulfilled, at least in part, by students
they originally intended. They mostly come in think- from this new course.
ing they want to be fine fragrance perfumers but we “IFF went in this direction because we did a study
believe that of the people that graduate, some may of what our needs would be in the future and we
follow the path to become consumer fragrance or realized that we wanted to reach a much broader
technical perfumers, some may become R&D, some population of potential talent than was happening
may obviously go into other areas,” Barbara says. traditionally,” Barbara explains, “so we do have
“During their time here, they have IFF internships pretty finite analysis of where our needs are but
and the goal is that they get more exposure to some we can’t be precise at this moment, so it’s really a
of those other paths; find out if they have an affinity combination of how the individuals evolve through
for those. We very much expect that they will go in the program, what the feedback is from ISIPCA, and
different directions.” where our needs are as they graduate..”
In their first year, the students get a mix of The entry requirements and application process
very traditional foundation training – studying are still strict, but it is apparent that IFF have gone
raw materials, history of perfumery and existing out of their way to cast a wider net and are not just
fragrances – blended with a more modern and talking about making perfumery more global, but
IFF-specific approach of high level of access to actually making it happen.

Uc.&.ta..llg. ®
Taste with thoughts
.I. .I. .I. @) ® ~L ~llfll

6DilD 6DilD 6DilD
BRC ISO 14001 ISO 22000 ISO 9001 KOSHER
..JlL:...
HALAL MEMBER
33/F, Yuanchang Kempinski Building No. 253 South Hubin Rd, Xiamen 361004, China
Tel: +86 592 516 3188 I 516 3288 Fax: +86 592 516 5577
Email: Sales@bestally.com.cn; Jpeng@bestally.com.cn
Untitled-1 1 3/1/18 10:03 AM

30 Ingredients Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF1806_Ataman_irv.indd 30 5/11/18 2:30 PM

Rediscovering
the Mint
Market
The drive behind mint is rooted in the growing demand for
traceable and sustainable natural mint, while developing
new innovations in sensory research and a more refined
understanding of regional preferences.
BY DENIZ ATAMAN
“T
he world will rediscover purchases that promote a cleaner, more sustainable
mint,” says Patrice environment. According to Mintel’s market data
Merceret, master reportb, 50% of UK consumers look for products
flavorist, Firmenich. Its made with natural ingredients when purchasing
popularity in consumer beauty products. In Germany, 25% of consumers
goods, particularly in purchase natural/organic products because of the
oral care, is expanding belief that its better for the environment.
into new product innovations with unique flavor
profiles, sensory technologies and functional aroma New, Stronger Varieties
chemicals. In fragrance, mint offers a green and Today mint essential oils are derived from
herbal quality to formulations, while imparting a conventional species like Mentha piperita, Menta
cool, crisp and refreshing scent profile. The rise of spicata, Menta cardiac and Menta arvensis. "The
aromatherapy has seen a boom in peppermint oil most preferred variety around the globe is certainly
due to its perceived calming effects. Mint’s popularity M.piperita," explains Mélanie Verhille, director, global
is also a testament to its benefits. The Instagram category oral care, Firmenich. The company part-
hashtags #mint and #mintflavor boast 5.2 million nered with Essex Laboratories to develop non-GMO
and over 4,000, respectively – indicating how piperita varieties with new signatures and tonalities.
consumers, brands and suppliers showcase its potent Despite the push for breeding new varieties,
freshness across a range of products in food, beauty/ including the newly added FEMA GRAS water leaf
personal care and fragrances. mint extract, "plants grown with better properties
The drive behind mint is rooted in the growing will help drive mint growth," explains Steve Pringle
demand for traceable and sustainable natural Ph.D, vice president global mint and Sensatea
mint, while developing new innovations in sensory group, Takasago. With climate change affecting crop
research. Local sourcing and ingredient production variability and price, breeding mint varieties that
through 2020a will continue to influence consumer offer new and stronger signatures and tonalities
a Mintel Natural Products Market Report b Sensate is a registered tradename of Takasago.

(Continued on Page 34)
31

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Rediscovering the Mint Market
(Continued from Page 31)

may contribute towards a consistent mint market, Biology explains that "commercial species of mint
especially for American peppermint threatened by such as spearmint (Mentha spicata L. ) contain mul-
the verticillium wilt disease. Affecting most of the tiple sets of chromosomes making genetic mapping
global mint harvests (except for reported resistance more difficult when it comes to understanding
in native spearmint, Mentha spicata) symptoms of disease resistance." Disease resistant varieties of
wilt disease exhibit yellowing, twisting and curling spearmint may be developed by studying the parent
of the upper leaves.1 These new varieties will “open species, Mentha suaveolens and Mentha longifolia.
new sustainable avenues with lower needs of water, Mint’s large genetic variability offers research-
fertilizer and pesticides,” explains Merceret. ers to breed varieties that will produce valuable
Rutgers University’s greenhouse in New compounds for commercial use. Typically, hybrids
Brunswick, NJ contains hundreds of varieties of consist of four to five basic mints. The more variabil-
mint that are being used to study disease resistance, ity, the less likely a plant will be affected by disease
particularly powdery mildew and verticilium wilt. in the field.
Thomas Gianfagna, professor, Department of Plant Gianfagna adds that "metabolic pathways can tell
By 2025, the global

oral care market is
expected to reach
$40.92 billion with
a CAGR of 4.8%.
us which compounds will be useful in commercial

production. Depending on a mint variety’s metabolic
pathway, the compounds that are produced may
have an undesirable flavor and aroma, but contains
other beneficial properties, such as insect repellant."
In the case of M. pulegium, commonly known as
pennyroyal, for example, its pathway is on the way to
produce menthol (a desirable flavor and aroma), but
instead stop at pulegone. This unusual variety can
then be crossed with a tastier mint that’s resistant to
disease.
Americas Driving Growth

Among natural and organic claims, wellness
continues to drive consumer preferences in both
emerging and developed markets. By 2025, the global
oral care market is expected to reach $40.92 billion
with a CAGR of 4.8%c. In emerging markets, particu-
larly Asia Pacific and India, growth is attributed to a
rise in dental hygiene awareness and rising incomes.
Growth in developed markets is influenced by
new innovations in multifunctional products and
unique flavor combinations. Europe is expected
Pictured here is M. pulegium—grown in Rutgers University’s mint greenhouse—which produces
an undesirable flavor and aroma, but contains natural repellant properties. Unusual varieties like
M. pulegium offer a chance to cross-breed with tastier and disease-resistant varieties. c Grand View Research: Global Oral Care Market Report
34 Ingredients Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

to experience significant growth due
to a growing geriatric population and
a rising importance placed on tooth
decay prevention with the regular use
of products such as mouth wash, dental
floss and mouth fresheners. In 2016,
toothpaste was a booming category
within the segment due to an increase
in the variety of function and flavors.
“There is a lot of flavor innovation in
oral care,” explains Pringle, “Whether
this is in varieties of mint flavor which
are being created or varieties of syner-
gistic flavors such as citrus, herbal and
floral combinations with mint.” Among
flavor innovations, sensory cuing—
products that impart a sensation—and
malodor technologies that eliminate
odor-causing aroma chemicals, are
being used creatively to impart a sense
of cleanliness and freshness.
Currently, the Americas are driving
the oral care growth with 42.56%
market shared. The top segments
include toothpaste, toothbrushes,
mouthwash/dental rinse, dental floss,
denture care, tooth whiteners and
mouth fresheners.
As the fastest growing oral care cat-
egory, mouthwash offers a quick way to
kill bacteria. A major revenue generator
in 2016, with 45.3% share, mouthwash,
particularly flavored and herbal mouth-
washes, offered an opportunity for
manufacturers to differentiate them-
selves from others on the retail shelves.
Retail outlets are also another factor in
driving oral care growth. By 2021, the
retail outlets, including supermarkets,
hypermarkets and health & beauty In 2016, toothpaste was a booming category within the segment due to an increase in the variety of
functions and flavors.
retailers, will hold 58.78% of the oral
care market . d
Global growth in oral care will be attributed to different facets of mint’s benefits in oral care prod-
sensory technology, premiumization and ingredi- ucts, it’s clear that the perception of cleanliness and
ents. Functionality versus total care is currently refreshment are consistent baselines of innovation
pushing innovations in developed markets, where for the market’s growth and success.
consumers are looking for specific attributes to
offset particular dental problems (i.e. plaque, References
tartar control, cavity protection, whitening and
sensitivity). 1. Verticillium Wilt of Mint (Vol. 1222, pp. 1-3, Rep.). (2016).
Champaign, IL: University of Illinois. doi: http://extension.
Mint’s condition in the market is driven by a com-
cropsciences.illinois.edu/fruitveg/pdfs/1222.pdf
bination of breeding stronger varieties and sensory
technologies. Though regional preferences expect
d Technavio: Global Oral Hygiene Market 2016-2020 Report
35

The
Mint Condition
in Oral Care
The innovation space you never knew about.
By Steve Pringle, vice president of global mint and Sensatesa,
Takasago International Corporation (USA)
a Sensates is a registered tradename of Takasago.
PF1806_Pringle_fcx.indd 36 5/11/18 2:31 PM

T he world of oral care has for a number
of years been a steady ship, predictable
in its flavor requirements, heavily
reliant on mint oils and ingredients
with a similar odor profile. Much of the
innovation in the area came in the way
of active ingredients outside of the flavor, and flavor
innovation itself was limited. More recently, however,
it looks like the landscape is changing.
The Challenge of Flavor

Despite the perception that the world of mint and
oral care has always been predictable and boring, in
hindsight it is this area which really led the develop-
ment of chemesthetic ingredients. Work in the 1970s
allowed Wilkinson Sword to develop materials which
had little to no odor but imparted similar physi-
ological cooling effects to menthol. These materials
imparted cooling without menthol’s characteristic
peppermint odor and without the undesirable burn
or astringency that high levels of menthol would
impart. A number of companies have developed a
In the world of oral care, as far as flavor is con- variety of cooling materials following this research,
cerned, mint is king. The demand of the consumer with Takasago manufacturing under the Sensates
to feel fresh and clean after brushing or rinsing is brand. These new materials then led to flavors being
clear, however within the flavor industry it can lead developed beyond the previous one-dimensional
to some challenges. For example, the Indian mint mint profiles, which had previously been created.
market is one of the major areas which the variety of The impression of fresh and clean is one which
mint sources and its derivatives comes from. It is the is critical to impart within an oral care flavor. After
largest producer of Mentha arvensis oil and bi-prod- all, the consumer uses toothpaste or mouthwash to
ucts such as menthol, de-mentholated Oils (DMO) improve their oral health, and there’s not much point
and other mints ingredients, but it is not without in using an oral care product which leaves the mouth
its internal challenges. Crop variations in size and feeling unclean! For a number of years coolant
quality can cause issues to the stability of the supply innovation has created materials which have increas-
chain within the flavor world. For example, in areas ing strength and longevity, which add to the fresh,
of production in Uttar Pradesh such as Sambhal, clean feeling an oral care product needs to impart.
Chandausi and Rampur, the 2017 crop size was short However, is there a point where this all becomes too
by approximately 50-60% over 2016 levels. Even much, and adding in more coolant simply defeats the
with inventory carried over from previous crops, the purpose we are trying to achieve?
expectation for Q1-Q2 2018 was a shortage in DMO The challenge comes around just what is fresh
of 15-20%, leading to the inevitable price rises. Even and clean in the consumer’s mind. Describing
within calendar years when you may perhaps expect such abstract concepts is not easy, and there is
to see some stability we see significant fluctuations of also the challenge of cultural differences to take
pricing (see F-1). into account. Further research in chemesthetic
F-1. YOY mentha oil pricing (INR)
37

The Mint Condition in Oral Care
people suffering from dry mouth where consum-

ers require saliva stimulating solutions as part of
their oral care product. Flavor formulations such as
Takasago’s Intensatesb and Firmenich’s NovaSensec
flavor systems stimulate the trigeminal nerve and
deliver increased salivation. These types of materials
can also be applied to personal healthcare products,
where an active ingredient can retard salivation, but
an appropriately formulated flavor can counteract
this and provide the salivation needed to increase
consumer acceptance and enjoyment.
Interestingly, a large amount of chemesthetic
ingredients which impart these effects are synthetic.
It seems that, to the oral care consumer, natural
doesn’t have a strong correlation with the health ben-
efits that are being gained from the product and they
are more than happy to have their benefits delivered
to them from an artificial ingredient. Is this because
the consumer believes that there is less distance
between toothpaste and mouthwash as a product
and pharmaceutical products, and that the tangible
benefits they are getting from using the product
are better delivered from something which has
been specifically designed to perform that function,
rather than a naturally occurring product which just
happens to have a similar effect by chance?
Mint is King
It’s no surprise to learn that in terms of flavor
Consumers are willing to try, even if in some cases for a short period, other flavor profiles profiles mint and mint variants are the most
just as long as it fits into their definition of clean and fresh. popular with consumers. Things are changing
however. Consumers are willing to try, even if in
some cases for a short period, other flavor profiles
just as long as it fits into their definition of clean
ingredients has seen the development of materi-
and fresh. As we can see from F-2 and F-3, mint
als which impart sensations such as warming and
flavors make up over 60% of new toothpaste and
tingling. It is the combination of these different
almost 70% of new mouthwash launches in 2016-
chemesthetic sensations which are vitally impor-
17. There is however a growing breadth of flavors
tant to the consumer’s appreciation and act as
which people are willing to try, from the fun and
significant sensory cues, particularly in oral care.
fruity flavors, which are predominantly to be found
In short, the right combination of chemesthetic
in childrens’ products, to the more regional specific
ingredients can have a huge influence on flavor
tea and green tea-flavored products.
perception and on the consumer experience.
Chemesthetic ingredients also have other advan-
tages. As well as imparting cooling, warming and Fresh Breath Beyond Just the Flavor
tingling and adding an extra dimension to a flavor The impression of clean and fresh which is
they can impart additional effects. Cooling materials imparted by the flavor profile can be built upon.
can increase the impression of alcohol perception While flavor profiles such as mint and citrus have the
in an alcohol-free mouthwash and effect, which is relatively short-term effect of masking oral malodors,
particularly important in areas of the world where it they do not necessarily eliminate them. Oral mal-
is desirable to have formulations that do not contain odors can be relatively easily characterized and the
alcohol or in pediatric applications. chemical components creating the undesirable whiff
In addition, chemesthetic materials can improve can be therefore identified. Technologies which can
or increase salivation in a flavor. Not only is this
important for the potentiation and perception of b Intensates is a registered tradename
the flavor, but it is also important in oral care for c NovaSense is a registered tradename

prinovausa.com
©2018 Prinova Group LLC All rights reserved.
The Only Flavor Partner You’ll Ever Need.

There’s a reason why our customers have been coming back to Prinova for nearly 40 years. It’s because,
like any good partner, we offer more than just the expected. In addition to being an endless source of
on-trend flavors, we also provide access to over 2,000 ingredients and have a wealth of expertise in
blends, premixes, aromas and more. So whenever, or wherever you need assistance, we’re here for you.
Ask about our Non-GMO opportunities. info@prinovausa.com | (630) 868-0300
Untitled-2 1 1/24/18 3:17 PM

F-2. Toothpaste flavors in new product launches 2016-17
F-3. Mouthwash flavors in new product launches 2016-17

then chemically neutralize these unwanted smells
will be added to the formulation. Formulation chal-
lenges come in gaining regulatory approval for active
ingredients outside of the flavor system, however,
there are materials which exist that can be delivered
from within the flavor formulation. An example of
this is Takasago’s Transatakd system which can elimi-
nate a number of different odors including morning
breath,1 coffee breath and garlic/onion breath (see
F-5). This allows the consumer to not only feel clean
and fresh but have the confidence that there is an
actual additional benefit to the flavor of their oral
care product.
Other developing technologies such as those,
which can target oral bacteria and microbes, are
also being established. While these are in the early
stages of their development, work utilizing syn-
ergistic activity between certain combinations of
aroma chemicals has afforded interesting results. It
is again worth noting that the focus is on delivering
a proven effect from a synthesized material rather
than linking the perception of a health benefit to the
natural status of a molecule.
It all Depends on the Mood I’m In

Mood activation has also been an area of explora-
tion for oral care companies. Reflecting on the times While flavor profiles such as mint and citrus have the relatively short-term
effect of masking oral malodors, they do not necessarily eliminate them.
However, technologies which can then chemically neutralize these unwanted
d Transatak is a registered trademark. smells will be added in formulations.
F-4. Fastest growing flavors
41

F-5. Morning breath suppression of Transatak flavor mouthrinse
of day when the majority of consumers undertake The Hidden Innovation Space
their oral care routines, there have been a number From a distance, oral care continues to appear to
of day or night oral care products which have been be a steady and slow-moving area in the flavor world.
launched. Products have been released that contain Scratch the surface and it’s clear that the opposite is
honey, lavender and chamomile either as minor true. Continued innovation in the segment has in the
ingredients or as recognizable components of their past allowed flavorists to add further dimensions to
flavor profile claim to invigorate or relax. the flavor itself, and these chemesthetic effects can
Such soft claims are common place, however, be seen in other application areas in flavors beyond
there is also work underway to determine the mint. Current innovation now allows flavorists to
ability of flavors to actually influence the mood of deliver tangible benefits from within the flavor to
consumers. Considering that a significant amount the consumers without having to sacrifice consumer
of flavor perception is from retronasal interaction enjoyment or appreciation.
we should be able to determine the effectiveness of
odor on brain activity. In addition, we should be able
to measure the effect of odor or taste on salivatory References
alpha amylase and salivatory cortisol levels both of
1. Akiko Yamasaki, Charles C Steward, Melis Cakirer, Sushma
which measure the levels of stress a subject is under. Nachnani, Mike Munroe, Poster Presentation IADR, Iguacu,
It is now possible to measure responses to flavor Brazil, 2012
systems that give tangible results on whether a flavor
is stimulating or relaxing. These results will allow
brands to be able to make more realistic claims to
consumers rather than relying soft claims based on
association.

XLIFIWXVE[QEXIVMEPWJSV]SYVƽEZSYVWERHJVEKVERGIW
;IEP[E]WƼRHXLIFIWXWSPYXMSR

!

Perfume Goes Genderless:
The Rise
of the Third
Option
Through its modern style, inclusive nature
and fresh take on scent, unisex fragrances
are breaking fragrance traditions and
creating new opportunities.
F
n BY RYAN DAILY
or most of modern perfume’s – floral, fresh, green, woodsy, spicy, etc. It’s hard to
history, perfume fell into two dislodge our connections between certain notes and
camps: male or female. Female gender, but we can at least change the marketing.”
perfumes would tease the nostrils
with flowers on the edge of the Started with One
woods, while male fragrances It started with one, CK One. In 1994, Calvin Klein
would compel you deeper into released the first marketed gender-neutral fragrance.
the forest with woody and musky The perfume included top notes of bergamot, carda-
odors. Advertising played it safe too, with marketing mom, pineapple and papaya; heart notes of jasmine,
campaigns reinforcing gender stereotypes. In 2018, violet, rose, nutmeg; and base notes of musk and
however, fragrances (and in most of contemporary amber – a balance between male and female elements.
culture) go beyond gender. While many male and “The concept of gender neutrality has been
female fragrances tend to play it safe, focusing on around in perfume at least since the 90s, with the
floral or woody scents, gender-neutral fragrance has blockbuster success of CKOne, which was marketed
expanded the boundaries of fragrances. as the first unisex fragrance and described as ‘for
“We’re living in a world that is increasingly non- men and for women.’ This category tends to be fresh,
binary and genderfluid, and fragrance lovers tend not citrusy, not very sensual. More like a sport scent or
to care about gender in fragrances anyway. They just office scent,” said Herman.
wear what they like," said Barbara Herman, founder After CK One, other gender-neutral fragrances
of Eris Parfums and author of Scent and Subversion: slowly began to emerge on the market. The same
Decoding A Century of Provocative Perfume. "I think year saw the launch of Messe de Minuit by Etro,
we should just ditch the ‘for men’ and ‘for women,’ a fragrance that included top notes of bergamot,
and put perfume in more perfume-centric categories lemon, orange; heart notes of Ceylon cinnamon,
PF1806_Daily_fcx.indd 44 5/11/18 2:33 PM

petit grain citronnier, patchouli; and base notes ivy leaves, a Sag Harbor Bay accord, peonies, mag-
of myrrh, labdanum and musk. Around the same nolia, oud, amber and sandalwood; where Hamptons
time, Premier Figuier by L’Artisan Parfumeur includes lime blossom, bergamot, white jasmine,
was released, which featured fig notes. However, magnolia, amber and sandalwood notes.
the decade more or less ended the way it began. At the end of 2017, Tom Ford released Fucking
Following the success of CK One, Calvin Klein Fabulous, a unisex fragrance with lavender, bitter
released CK be in 1996, solidifying its role in the almond, tonka bean, clary sage orris root, leather,
emergence and expansion of unisex fragrances. cashmeran, amber and white wood notes. Prior to
that release, the brand released three oud fragrances
A Diverse Market with Oud Minerale, Oud Wood Intense and Tobacco
Flash forward roughly twenty years, the market Oud Intense. Then in early 2018, the brand released
has rapidly expanded. The gender-neutral fragrance Eau de Soleil Blanc, a unisex fragrance that includes
market saw 750 global launches in 2015, an increase top notes of orange bitter peels, bergamot, petitgrain
from 314 in 2014a, and shows few signs of slowing bigarade, caraway seed, pink peppercorn, carda-
down. Major brands like Tom Ford, Bond No. 9 New mom, pistachio; heart notes of Moroccan orange
York and Yves Saint Laurent among others offer a flower, rich nectar, jasmine, tuberose and ylang
range of unisex fragrances. ylang; and base notes of amber and vanilla.
On Yves Saint Laurent website, the company
offers over 20 products under the unisex categoryb. Keep It Plain
Many of the fragrances take a simplistic approach On the niche side of fragrances, unisex comes
to unisex fragrance and are named after specific in a variety of forms. One popular trend among
scents. Yves Saint Laurent’s Le Vestiaire des unisex fragrances is creating packaging and
Parfums Collection de Nuit includes three fra- branding with a sleek modern look, devoid of
grances, which include leather, velvet and vinyl. Its the traditional gender markers of female or male
Le Vestiaire des Parfums collection takes a similar fragrances. The fragrances themselves range from
approach with fragrances like Tuxedo, Saharienne, simple representations that highlight a particular
Trench, Caban and Caftan. Yves Saint Laurent’s scent to fully developed fragrances with top, middle
Tuxedo fragrance is an oriental spicy fragrance that and base notes.
includes scents of black pepper, smoked patchouli,
cardamom and an ambergris accord, while its
Saharienne perfume is a floral citrus fragrance with
notes of neroli petals, white musks and wild grass.
In addition to these two collections, the company
offers oriental-inspired unisex fragrances in its
Oriental Collection and Le Vestiaire De Parfums
Collection Oriental. The collection features Splendid
Wood, a deep woody perfume with cardamom and
cedarwood notes; Noble Leather, an oriental leather
fragrance with vanilla, patchouli and dried fruit
notes; Majestic Rose, a woody floral perfume with
raspberry, mar rose, and saffron notes.
Bond No. 9 takes several different approaches
to unisex fragrances. Chief among them are scents
inspired by New York neighborhoods and places.
Soho is a fragrance that includes notes of sweet
orange, petitgrain, cassis absolute, orange blossom,
jasmine, orris, amber, musk, oakmoss and cedar-
wood, while its New Haarlem fragrance features
scents of lavender, bergamot, green leaves, coffee,
cedarwood, amber, vanilla, tonka and patchouli.
Blending the New York influence with an aquatic
theme, Bond No. 9 offers Sag Harbor and Hamptons.
Sag Harbor is a fragrance with notes of bergamot,
Inspired by the gender neutral title that is replacing Mr. or Mrs., Mx. is a genderfluid
a https://www.statista.com/statistics/632464/fragrances-unisex-trends-launches-global/
fragrance with notes of ginger, black pepper, sandalwood, cedar, birch tar, patchouli,
b https://www.yslbeautyus.com/fragrance/unisex-fragrances/
saffron, cacao, vetiver and castoreum. Photo courtesy of Eris Parfums.
45

Perfume Goes Genderless: The Rise of the Third Option
A popular brand in the sleek, modern unisex Zoologist Perfumes feature a range of fragrances
fragrance space is Commodity. Started in 2014 by based on animals. The brand currently has 11
London-based entrepreneurs Konstantin Glasmacher fragrancesd inspired by the scents and even person-
and Ash Huzenlaub, Commodity quickly became alities of bats, dragonflies, civets, nightingales and
a popular seller at Sephora storesc. Commodity pandas among others. Zoologist Bat includes top
fragrances are plainly packaged and are named after notes of banana, soft fruit, damp earth; middle notes
a single ingredient or object, such as orris, bergamot, of fig, tropical fruits, minerals notes, myrrh, resins
book, vetiver, leather, moss or tonka. Despite its and vegetal roots; and base notes of furry musks,
single ingredient name, each fragrance uses a blend leather vetiver, sandalwood and tonka. The more
of other ingredients to enhance the featured note. recently introduced Zoologist Elephant includes
Its tonka fragrance includes top notes of almond oil, elements of elephants’ surroundings and ecosystem.
Indian Davana oil and cardamom oil; middle notes of The fragrance includes top notes of tree leaves, mag-
lotus and magnolia oil; and base notes of Venezuelan nolia, Darjeeling tea; middle notes of cocoa, coconut
roasted tonka absolute, Peru balsam absolute, milk, incense, jasmine and woody notes; and base
Australian sandalwood oil and Laos benzoin resinoid. notes of amber, musks, patchouli and sandalwood.
Taking a more scientific bend to unisex fra-
grances, Escentric Molecules focuses on the art
and chemistry of fragrance. Currently, Escentric
Molecules offers four fragrances in two formula-
tions simply named 01, 02, 03 and 04. The pair of
Regardless if the perfume
fragrances are presented in two different ways: the
Escentric fragrance and the molecule fragrance,
wearer is male, female or
each sold separately. The Escentric fragrance
highlights the characteristics of a specific aroma
somewhere in-between,
molecule with key ingredients, whereas the molecule
fragrance is a minimalistic representation of the
the unisex fragrance
fragrance and only contains the aroma molecule
with no additional odorants. Escentric 01 features
category has changed
Iso E Super at 65% and also contains notes of lime
peel, hedione, orris, balsamic notes and fresh musk.
how consumers think and
Its counterpart, Molecule 01, simply focuses on the buy perfume.
cedarwood aspect of Iso E Super.
Fragrance new comer DedCool follows the same
aesthetic as Escentric Molecules but with a chic
Fashion designer and fragrance brand Bella
edge. Cased in clear perfume bottles, the fragrances
Freud, created by the great-granddaughter of
are simply named Fragrance 01, Fragrance 02,
Sigmund Freud, finds inspiration from famous
Fragrance 03, etc. DedCool’s Fragrance 01 includes
figures. Ginsberg is God is a unisex fragrance
top notes of bergamot and fresh dew; middle notes
inspired by Allen Ginsberg that includes notes of
of cassis and floral; and a base of vanilla and amber.
frankincense, wormwood, leather and black pepper.
For a fragrance with a bit more of a muskier edge,
Inspired by her great grandfather, Psychoanalysis
DedCool’s Fragrance 02 includes top notes of juniper;
blends notes of tobacco flowers with base notes of
middle notes of green floral, sheer woods and
cedarwood, dry amber and dark musks.Concept
patchouli, and a base of sandalwood and musk. In
perfume brand Imaginary Authors takes a twist on
addition to being unisex, the fragrances are formu-
fragrances inspired by famous figures and invents
lated to be vegan, cruelty-free and non-toxic.
entirely new ones. Its line of unisex fragrances is
inspired by fake authors and books. The packages
Psychologists to Zoologists and labels pay homage to vintage book covers and
A modern sensibility isn’t the only thing that has literary classics. Among some of its fragrances
influenced the gender-neutral fragrance market. include Slow Explosions, which includes notes
Paying homage to the intersection between art, of saffron, rose absolute, leather, apple, benzoin
nature and pop culture, everything from animals to and cashmeran. A City on Fire, features cade oil,
famous figures and fake authors have been used as spikenard, cardamom, clearwood, dark berries and
inspiration in unisex scents. burnt matches.
c https://fashionista.com/2018/01/commodity-unisex-perfume-fragrance d https://www.zoologistperfumes.com/collections/perfumes

100% Natural Oud Oil, sustainably sourced from the forests of
Thailand and Cambodia. Stocking 3 varieties including the matured
Seyuffi, left to thicken and sweeten over the course of 5 years,
fantastic for personal care applications.
Learn more about our range by scanning the QR here...
www.oqema.com

Perfume Goes Genderless: The Rise of the Third Option
Zoologist Perfumes features fragrances inspired by the animal kingdom. Photo courtesy of Zoologist Perfumes.
A Growing Gender Revolution with top notes of wasabi, green spices, mandarin
One fragrance, in particular, is innovating the and violet leaf absolute; heart notes of wet stones,
unisex space by celebrating gender in all its forms. orris absolute and rose absolute; and base notes of
Named after the gender-neutral title Mx. (pro- sandalwood, incense and vetiver.
nounced “Mix”), the fragrance by Eris Parfums plays In addition to unisex or gender-neutral fragrances
with traditional gender perceptions with a scent that being a market driver, they have also become a
includes notes of ginger, black pepper, saffron, oliba- reflection of the fragrance wearer’s identity and
num, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, patchouli, benzoin, personality. Another trend that is slowly emerging
birch tar, cacao and castoreum. in the arena of unisex fragrances are fragrances for
“Mx. is genderfluid — sometimes hinting at transgender or gender non-conforming individuals.
conventionally masculine notes, sometimes conven- Though representing roughly 1% of the United States
tionally feminine notes — but truly blurring their populationg, transgender consumers represent a
boundaries, never landing in one place, constantly small, but emerging demographic, that is interested
changing,” said Herman. “Gender-neutral implies in enhancing their life through a scent that matches
not taking a position but in a way Mx. is taking all their identity.
gender positions, or at least keeping their possibili-
ties open.” A Look Ahead
Mx. isn’t alone though in this line blurring. According to a Report Buyer reportg, the global
In 2016, French designer Philippe Stark created perfumes industry is estimated to be valued at
three fragrances, one for men, one for women, and $39.67 billion at the end of 2016 and will grow at
one for a new generation who are neither man or a CAGR of 5.9% between the years 2016 and 2026,
womane. Peau d’Ailleurs contains earthy, woody with unisex perfumes growing at a higher 6.9%
and musk notes. And just as Calvin Klein helped CAGR. The largest consumer cohort, millennials, are
establish the genre, it is reinventing the game. In also caring less and less about gender and societal
2016, Calvin Klein released CK2f, a gender-free scent norms. A GlobalData report showed that one-third
e https://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/a3g58g/philippe-starck-made-a-fragrance-for-non- g https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5227946/
binary-people h https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/global-perfumes-industry-is-expected-
f http://www.telegraph.co.uk/beauty/skin/ck2-gender-free-fragrance/
to-register-a-cagr-of-59-over-the-forecast-period-20162026-300450162.html

of consumers disagreed that they felt pressured to
follow traditional gender normsh.
“Fragrance is one of the beauty and personal
care segments that is fully tapping into the gender-
fluidity trend. Recently, this has become increasingly
evident in the proliferation of androgynous fragrance
launches across brands, which strive to capture con-
sumers’ attention by resonating with their desire to
express themselves,” said Iliyana Mesheva, consumer
analyst at GlobalDataj.
Regardless if the perfume wearer is male, female
or somewhere in-between, the unisex fragrance
category has changed how many consumers think
and buy perfume. Though traditional male or female
scents will remain popular, the unisex perfume
segment is creating more options for the growing
conscious consumer. With the increase in consumer
demands and the great number of launches, the
unisex fragrance market should see strong growth,
along with interesting innovations in fragrance
formulation, branding, design and packaging.
i http://www.perfumerflavorist.com/fragrance/trends/Perfume-Experiences-the-
In addition to being a unisex fragrance, DedCool’s perfumes are formulated to Gender-Revolution--460510223.html

be vegan and cruelty-free. Photo courtesy of DedCool. j ibid.
49

What’s
on Tap at
−
Perfumarie?
Open seven days a week, the chic fragrance studio offers a unique
educational opportunity for both customers and brands, while shaking
up the traditional distribution model.
All photos courtesy of Perfumarie–.
"When you see the fragrance in its bottle, how does that affect your purchase?" asks Mindy Yang, founder, Perfumarie–.
PF1806_Interview_Perfumarie_fcx.indd 50 5/11/18 2:35 PM

T hough it sounds
like a new cocktail
bar in Manhattan,
Mindy Yang,
founder, Perfumarie-,
is using alcohol differently.
She and her team in Soho are
creating scent experiences in the
Lafayette Street fragrance studio
in New York City. Open seven Mindy Yang
preferences and the market is oversaturated with
options. Further, consumers are learning how to
create their own fragrances in an attempt to have a
point a view, but creating a fragrance is complex and
requires knowledge of regulatory and compliance.
All of these factors lead to a Wild West in fragrance
and a disconnection within the value chain.
“I’m just trying to build a railroad,” Yang says. “We
connect consumers to distributors, press, retailers
and industry all at the same time. Perfumarie- is the
days a week, the chic boutique place you go before you were born [as a perfume].
offers a unique educational opportunity for both The space is neutral, and it’s for the consumers
customers and brands. Customers are invited to to be exactly who they want to be. No additional
experience each of the fragrances on tap to better drivers whatsoever.”
understand how the fragrance works directly on The taps include a wide range of fragrances,
their skin and to hone in on their scent preferences. including international niche brands, aroma mol-
Perfumarie- ’s clients include brands and marketers ecules and pre-launch formulas. The diversity (and
who showcase new formulations and fragrances, as mystery) of the taps are intended to stimulate con-
well as reviving classics in the concealed taps. versation, as consumers are looking to enhance their
“I see this as an exhibition space and a think point of view; while brands are provided with honest
tank,” Yang explains to Perfumer & Flavorist. The feedback to improve the fragrance. Ultimately, the
concept, a response to shaking up the traditional studio serves as an interactive hub between the
fragrance distribution model, is designed for brands public and industry.
to work on sampling and/or research campaigns
for a particular perfume. The breakdown of client
participation begins with up to one month of a
formulation in the fragrance tap. For the next two
months, the Perfumarie- team gathers insight to
understand and revisit variables such as formulation,
branding, positioning and packaging. After the three
month cycle, brands have a transparent breakdown
of what variables need to be tweaked before pushing
the product out again.
Consumers pay $20 to experience each of the taps
with a complimentary fragrance of choice at the end
of their visit. At the end of the month, they are sent
an email that reveals the fragrances on tap. While
the fragrances are veiled in the tap, visitors have the
option of purchasing a 5 mL, 15 mL and 50 mL lab
bottle. In order to participate in the sensory experi-
ence, visitors provide their information and their
own notes on each of the fragrances. Within a few
days, they receive a full report of their notes, along
with curated emails based on their preferences of
fragrances, as well as event opportunities to meet the
perfumers who created their favorite scents.
Navigating a Wild West of Fragrance

The distribution channel and the traditional way
of doing business has shifted. Distributors are over-
stocked with product in warehouses, buyers are wary Tajines are placed below each tap, where consumers can lift the lid and smell
of taking risks due to rapidly evolving consumer the corresponding fragrance.
51

What’s on Tap at Perfumarie− ?
The space is designed for the sensory adventurer to take his/her time to try a fragrance; while brands can test a product's performance in a retail setting.
“I feel like because we have this great opportunity inviting the whole industry to work together. The
to speak about transparency with the industry, we studio has over a thousand members in its database
should inspire everyone to get involved and move with a 30% return visit rate (compared to an average
toward innovation,” Yang says. of 5% in traditional retail).
“It’s really about empowering consumer choice,
Planting a New Crop of Consumers point of view, immersion and education so that we
Taking nods from the food, flavor and hospitality can expand the market together,” Yang says.
industries, which welcome experiential engage-
ment for consumer education, the potential is Sensory Adventurers
high for these consumers to cross into fragrance. The space is designed for the sensory adventurer,
However, there is no consumer-centric platform so consumers can take time for their fragrances to
that is neutral, she explains. Typically, platforms settle into the skin before making a decision. “If you
that promote scent experiences are launched by are spending $20 and the time to fill out this form,
one brand or one fragrance house. Yang finds that you’re taking this seriously,” Yang says. “Consumers
neutrality and diversity are essential in enhancing will come in and try out each fragrance, some on
consumer engagement. skin. And when exploring the studio, everything is
“Part of it is exhibition, the other part is events. My a part of the story. They’re having fun and when the
only job on the consumer side is to gather and bring dry down happens, they pick their favorites and go
more people into this world, and plant a new crop of home with the one they love.”
consumers to expand the potential of the market.” The consumer experience accounts for multiple
By expanding the industry, Perfumarie- can layers of interaction from ordering methods (online,
expand along with it. The goal is to establish the New phone or in-store) to measuring consumer engage-
York studio as the proof-of-concept to later develop ment after the fragrance is unveiled and shown in a
other studios around the world, and eventually retail setting.

Yang adds, “When you see the fragrance in its
bottle, how does that affect your purchase? Will
you call us to order? Visit the store? Is the price
point too low? Too high? All of this information is
accounted for and if the brand is sponsoring a tap,
this information will be sent to them for further
brand development.”
Respecting Individual Preferences

As some of the world’s influential consumers
in beauty and personal care, Millennials and Gen
Z’ers, are key drivers. However, to Yang it’s not about
generational preferences, despite the studio’s best
customers to be under 35 years old.
“Each consumer comes in with different cultural
and personal preferences,” she says. “It’s using big
data and respecting individual preferences. This is
the only way that you can empower them to choose.”
The studio has over a thousand members in its database with a 30% return visit rate
(compared to an average of 5% in traditional retail).
Just for perspective, #selfcare boasts over 4.5

million posts and #wellness has over 16 million
posts, both on Instagram. To narrow it down further,
the global fragrance market is expected to be worth
$92 billion by 2024a, with perfume reaching $49
billion by 2022b. What does this tell us? Not only is
the need for wellness products growing, but consum-
ers ultimately want to know more about themselves
and how to manage their health. This knowledge
includes a consumers’ growing interest for raw
materials and provenance.
Balancing the line between consumer engage-
ment and savvy marketing, Perfumarie- 's business
model is rooted in sharing products that are devel-
oped mindfully for a conscious consumer. “We’re
so busy marketing and telling people what to think,
instead of being respectful of what they want, and
their own relationship with what they encounter.”
“You’re empowered to learn about different raw
materials and how to use this opportunity to unlock
those scent memories and time travel,” Yang says
passionately. “When people come together into the
store and they smell these scents, all of a sudden this
rare intimacy happens, this sharing happens and
therapy, healing sometimes happens. It’s an honor to
be present during those moments, and we send them
home with that scent so they can sit with it, make
peace with that memory, that feeling.”
"Part of it is exhibition, the other part is events. My only job on the consumer side is
to gather and bring more people into this world, and plant a new crop of consumers a https://www.statista.com/statistics/259221/global-fragrance-market-size/
to expand the potential of the market," explains Yang. b https://www.statista.com/statistics/757533/global-perfume-market-size/
53

Fragrance Ingredient Communication:
Negotiating and Implementing
California’s SB 258
Also known as the Cleaning Products Right to Know Act, SB 258 presented an
opportunity for the International Fragrance Association North America to engage
all stakeholders for meaningful fragrance ingredient communication.
n BY AMANDA NGUYEN, JD, Director, Government Affairs & Legal, IFRANA
R epresenting fragrance companies

means listening, educating and
promoting a specific point of view.
At IFRANA, we represent fragrance
and our viewpoint reflects those
of companies that create fragrances and supply
fragrance materials, as well as companies that sell
finished products that contain fragrance. Our point of
view is straight-forward: we believe in a consumer’s
California’s SB 258 (a cleaning product ingredient
disclosure bill). When SB 258 was introduced on
February 8, 2017, the draft was considerably dif-
ferent than the version Governor Brown signed on
October 15, 2017. The evolution of the draft came
about through active listening and open discussion.
As stakeholders became more knowledgeable, they
found common ground and negotiated legislation
that ultimately balances consumer interests with
right to know, and we believe that information must meaningful fragrance intellectual property protec-
be based on sound science to be accurate, reliable tion, which is critical for artistry, innovation and
and relevant. As a consumer, having confidence in the the survival of the many jobs that depend on the
products my family and I use is paramount. It is also fragrance industry.
important to have information that is meaningful, After years of voluntary industry efforts and
not overwhelming or confusing. advancements, the passage of California SB 258,
We recognize there are segments of the or The Cleaning Product Right to Know Act, marks
population that desire more information about the first state-mandated cleaning product ingredi-
the products they use. This desire came to the ent transparency measure. Beginning January 1,
legislative forefront in 2017 with the passage of 2020, manufacturers of air care, automotive, general
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Untitled-1 1 1/31/18 9:35 AM

Fragrance Ingredient Communication
cleaning and floor maintenance and polish prod- SB 258 because of its intended purpose, indus-
ucts must communicate ingredient information try—throughout the supply chain—was uniformly
online; on-label requirements begin January 1, 2021. opposed (or opposed unless amended), as the first
Fragrance companies will be supporting these label- version of SB 258 left a number of uncertainties and
ing efforts to meet these implementation dates. The infeasibilities and would have, paradoxically, led to
shift from industry-led initiatives to compliance with further consumer confusion. IFRANA’s opposition
new state law will present challenges—and areas of was also rooted in the fact that ingredient com-
opportunity—in 2018 and beyond. munication is a matter of balance. Consumers have
expressed interest in ingredient information, but
Connecting with Consumers meaningful communication should not over-warn,
All stakeholders—from trade associations to cause confusion or occur without context.
consumer coalitions—have the same goal, ensuring With all interested parties supporting a similar
that consumers have confidence in the products they cause—promoting consumer confidence—the next
use. In that spirit, when referring to the new require- question was how to build consensus.
ments of SB 258, the phrase “fragrance ingredient
communication” better explains the goal of the Political Climate
legislation (see T-1). Any assessment of SB 258 had to begin with the
ongoing efforts to pass cleaning product legislation
in California over the past several legislative ses-
sions. Most recently, AB 708, a similar measure, did
not move beyond the California Assembly in the
As a consumer, 2015-2016 session; but 2017 was different. The com-
bination of public and political interest along with
having confidence individual company transparency efforts created
in the products my a favorable environment for SB 258. After more

than a decade of interest, IFRANA and our allied
family and I use is trades prepared for the passage of cleaning product
paramount. It is also F-1. 2017-2018 California legislature

important to have
information that Senate – 40 Senators
is meaningful, not
overwhelming or
confusing.
13 Republicans 27 Democrats
SB 258, As Introduced
On February 8, 2017, State Senator Ricardo Lara,
a Democrat representing the Bell Gardens area of
Los Angeles (33rd District), introduced SB 258, The
Assembly – 80 Assembly Members
Cleaning Product Right to Know Act. At the time
of its introduction, the bill was co-sponsored by
the Environmental Working Group (EWG), Breast
Cancer Prevention Partners and Women’s Voices for
the Earth. The National Resources Defense Counsel
(NRDC) later became a co-sponsor.
As introduced, SB 258 required full ingredient
disclosure online and on-label and provided no pro-
tection for confidential business information (CBI). 25 Republicans 55 Democrats
Though a number of NGOs and coalitions supported

T-1. Amendments to SB 258
SB 258, As Introduced 2-8-17 SB 258, As Enacted 10-15-17
No CBI Protection CBI, including protections for fragrance

No feasibility regarding “contaminants of concern” Removal of “contaminants of concern” language
Lack of clarity re de minimis, “incidental ingredient,” natural Clarifying language and/wor solutions
complex substances
No variations/choices between on label and online disclosure Varying mechanisms on label/online
No alignment with federal requirements (particularly pictogram) No pictogram requirement
No time for implementation (effective date January 1, 2018) Timeline extended
No consideration for regulatory updates Timeline for implementing regulatory updates

No positive statements or industry considerations in the Removal of problematic preamble language; industry
preamble or bill text feedback incorporated
The table reflects the difference between SB 258’s language, as introduced, and the compromises that IFRANA helped to achieve.
ingredient communication legislation. Chief among

our priorities was balancing consumer interests,
including cost of goods, with industry practicality.
IFRANA, in part, played an important role in helping IFRANA, in part,
all sides understand the unintended consequences of
SB 258, as introduced.
played an important
Stakeholder Engagement
role in helping all
After the introduction of SB 258, IFRANA and its sides understand
member companies worked directly with Senator
Lara’s office and the bill’s sponsors to improve the the unintended
legislation. While IFRANA and its allied trades
engaged in traditional advocacy work (position consequences of SB
letters, meetings with legislators, industry strategy
meetings, etc.), it became clear that – despite shared
258, as introduced.
goals – stakeholders on the industry side and on the
NGO side were not seeing eye-to-eye on how to best
communicate cleaning product ingredients.
Senator Lara recognized that stakeholders had
The balance reflected in SB 258 afforded fragrances
more in common than they might have realized,
necessary CBI protections—protections critical to
and essentially required buy-in from all sides.
preserving artistry, innovation and jobs that rely on
The Senator’s Office formed a working group of
the fragrance industry—while providing important
stakeholders. This working group met in-person
ingredient information to consumers.
on three separate occasions and coordinated with
their respective coalitions to drive consensus.
This willingness to communicate, educate—and SB 258 Becomes Law
be educated—led to meaningful outcomes for all California Governor Edmund G. Brown, signed
participants. Ultimately, because SB 258 achieved a The Cleaning Product Right to Know Act on October
level of balance of interests, IFRANA withdrew its 15, 2017. As predicted, the vote count indicated that
opposition to The Cleaning Product Right to Know SB 258 had sufficient support among California leg-
Act. While concerns remained regarding the pro- islators. The California State Assembly passed the bill
liferation of a hazard-based approach to chemical on a bipartisan vote (Aye 55, No 15, Abstain 9) with
management and potential difficulties with imple- the Senate voting (Aye 27, No 13).
menting SB 258, IFRANA supported the effective While SB 258 requires ingredient communication
negotiating process and the productive dialogue. for all cleaning product ingredients, fragrance was
57

Fragrance Ingredient Communication
often—and continues to be—discussed separately. on a product label if there is an applicable change in a

Specific to fragrance disclosure, manufacturers will designated trait list (DTSC) or, under Option 2, if the
be required to disclose all fragrance ingredients above EU allergens are updated, the law requires inclusion
100 ppm in the finished product, unless exceptions of subsequent updates. A manufacturer has up to 18
allow the mixture to be claimed as confidential busi- months after the adoption of the revised list by its
ness information (CBI) (see T-2)a. authoritative body to make the revision, unless a later
Since the effective dates vary for online require- effective date for changes is imposed for California
ments and on-label requirements, it may be helpful to Prop 65 or EU Allergens.
think about fragrance ingredient communications in Online, under §108956 (b), the manufacturer must
this way. Manufacturers have two on-label options for post on its website, in an electronically readable
communicating fragrance ingredients (see T-3). format, information related to fragrance ingredients
Revisions, as required by §108956 (f-h), must be or allergens. Manufacturers must list all fragrance
made to a product label. A manufacturer is required ingredient(s) that are present in a designated product
to make a revision to fragrance information disclosed at a concentration at or above 0.01 percent (100
ppm), unless it is CBI. Manufacturers must also list
a CBI can exist if a material or mixture is on the TSCA confidential inventory all fragrance ingredients included on a Designated
or if it is subject to protection under the Uniform Trade Secret Act. A
manufacturer or supplier of the CBI material(s) may be asked to further
List (DTSC Authoritative Lists), on EU allergens list
discuss the matter to the California Attorney General. or subsequent updates to those regulations, when
T-2. CBI and SB 258

Protections Limitations
• SB 258 §108955 (b)(1) A manufacturer may protect and is • CBI cannot be claimed for any intentionally added ingredient
not required to disclose any intentionally added ingredient, that appears on a designated list (CA DTSC), of which there
including any fragrance ingredient, or combination of are approximately 60-70 fragrance materials
intentionally added ingredients that meet the definition of • CBI cannot be claimed for nonfunctional constituents (34
confidential business information... identified substances) present at or above 100 ppm (10 ppm
• SB 258 §108952 (e) Claimed on TSCA Confidential Inventory for 1,4 dioxane)
or Uniform Trade Secret Act • CBI cannot be claimed for fragrance allergens present
“Trade secret” means information, including a formula, at or above 100 ppm, as required to be listed by the EU
pattern, compilation, program, device, method, technique, Detergents Regulation.
or process, that: On label, “fragrance” may be used as a descriptor.
Derives independent economic value, actual or potential, Manufacturers must disclose either fragrance allergens
from not being generally known to the public or to present at or above 100 ppm (remains 26 EU allergens,
other persons who can obtain economic value from its regardless of updates) or the statement “Contains
disclosure or use; and fragrance allergens.”
Is the subject of efforts that are reasonable under the Online, manufacturers must disclose fragrance allergens
circumstances to maintain its secrecy. at or above 100 ppm, as required to be listed by the EU
Detergents Regulation (including future updates).
Outlined CBI protections and limitations on CBI.
T-3. On-Label Fragrance Ingredient Communication Options
Option 1 §108954 (a)(1) Option 2 §108954 (a)(2)

Communicate fragrance ingredient(s) that is included on a Communicate fragrance ingredient(s) unless Confidential
Designated List (DTSC); and Business Information (CBI); fragrance ingredient(s) can be listed
on label as “fragrance”
Communicate allergen(s) (26 EU allergens), when present in the Contains fragrance allergen(s)” must be on label when a
product at or above 0.01 percent (100 ppm); and fragrance allergen is present (including subsequent updates to
EU allergens) in the product at or above 0.01 percent (100 ppm)
Communicate ingredients on California Proposition 65 warning, Communicate ingredients on California Proposition 65 warning,
if applicable, beginning 2023. if applicable, beginning 2023.

present in the product at a concentration at or above
0.01 percent (100 ppm), and beginning in 2023, any
ingredient with a California Proposition 65 warning.
A fragrance ingredient’s function may be listed as
“fragrance ingredient.” Under §108956 (e, g-h), a man-
ufacturer is required to make a revision to fragrance
information disclosed online if there is an applicable
change in a designated trait list (DTSC Authoritative
Lists) or the EU allergens are updated. A manufac-
turer shall make the revision no later than six months
after the adoption of the revised list by its authorita-
tive body unless a later effective date for changes is
imposed for California Prop 65 or EU Allergens.
What’s Next?
With the passage of The Cleaning Product Right
to Know Act, understanding implementation require-
ments and coordinating throughout the supply chain
levels are top priorities. Questions will certainly arise
over whether certain products are within the scope
of SB 258, whether a particular fragrance ingredient
is impacted and how cleaning product manufac-
turers will interact with their fragrance suppliers,
retailers and consumers. IFRANA is committed to
building trust and serving as a resource. By engaging
all stakeholders, meaningful fragrance ingredient
communication can be achieved.
Amanda Nguyen joined IFRANA in

July 2016 and manages the asso-
ciation’s Government Affairs and
Legal Department. Her focus is on
ensuring effective industry advocacy
and representation and providing
in-house legal support. Amanda
oversees the Government Relations and Value Chain
& Sustainability Committees.
59

Organoleptic Characteristics
of Flavor Materials
This month’s column features discussions on cocoa shell
extract, grapefruit oil CP, coffee oil natural and more.
BY JUDITH MICHALSKI
Senior Flavorist, abelei flavors;
Organoleptic Evaluation Panelists
jmichalski@abelei.com • Gerard Mosciano, Consulting Flavorist
• Deborah Barber, Senior Flavorist, FONA
• Cyndie Lipka, Master Flavorist, Prinova
• Tom Gibson, Director, Flavor Architect, Flavor First Flavors
• Robert Pan, Flavor Consultant
• Alpa Roman, Senior Flavorist, Flavor & Fragrance Specialties
• Bill Aslanides, Senior Flavorist, Synergy Flavors, Inc.
• Aparna Oak, Director of Flavor Innovation, Imbibe
I wish to thank Prinova for their hospitality for this session.
Reproduction
Reproduction in English
in English or any
or any other
other languageofofallallororpart
language part of
of this article
articleisisstrictly
strictlyprohibited.
prohibited.©©
2018 Allured
2016 Business
Allured Media.
Business Media.
PF1806_Michalski_fcx.indd 60 5/11/18 2:37 PM

Ginseng Fluid Extract 16138 Possible applications: The very characteristic pro-
Supplier: Horner International file of this extract will enhance spice blends like
GRAS, CAS# 50647-08-0, Panax ginseng, natural chai, horchata, cola, cherry cola, cherry and mint
Odor: @ 100%. Earthy, green, herbal and flavors for water soluble applications like bever-
vegetablelike. ages, mouthwash products and alcoholic drinks.
Taste: @ 0.2%. Green, earthy, musty, slightly spicy Trilogy Essential Ingredients, Inc.:
and vegetablelike. www.trilogyei.com
Possible applications: The earthy, green notes of this
root extract will emphasize vegetable notes in Natural Vanilla Bourbon Flavor WONF
green pepper, celery, cucumber, jicama, carrot Supplier: Aurochemicals
and lettuces, as well as some herbal tea flavors. Odor: @ 100%. Sweet, brown, creamy, resinous, cou-
Horner International: www.hornerintl.com marinic and vanilla.
Taste: @ 0.1%. Vanillinlike, sweet, brown and
Cocoa Shell Extract cocoalike.
Supplier: Excellentia Possible applications: With vanilla beans at sky-
GRAS, CAS# 84649-99-0, Theobroma cacao, natural high prices, this compounded flavor may help to
Odor: @ 100%. Chocolate, dark, rich, brown, slightly alleviate the cost of vanilla extract wherever it is
tobaccolike and slightly roasted. used, either by itself or used in conjunction.
Taste: @ 0.0.2%. Bittersweet chocolate, bitter, Aurochemicals: www.aurochemicals.com
slightly tobaccolike and slightly coffeelike.
Possible applications: This delicious extract is not of Cocoa Absolute Oil Soluble #24942
the milk type and will add rich, bittersweet notes Supplier: Horner International
to all chocolate flavors, including fudge, mocha, GRAS, CAS# 8002-31-1, Theobroma cacao, natural
devil’s food and brownie. Its dark, sweet notes Odor: @ 100%. Slightly acidic, sweet, cocoa powder-
should also be considered for coffee, vanilla, like, fudgy, brown and earthy.
tobacco and roast beef. Taste: @ 0.1%. Cocoa, sweet, chocolate and slightly
Excellentia: www.excellentiainternational.com nutty.
Taste: @ 0.2%. Nutty, cocoa powderlike, brown and
Cinnamon Extract Organic (water soluble) #711 chocolate.
Supplier: Trilogy Essential Ingredients, Inc. Possible applications: The notes of this absolute are
FEMA# 2290, CAS# 84649-98-9, Cinnamomum sweet and cocoa powder-like and lack the heavy,
verum, natural bitter notes of some extracts. Ideal applications
Odor: @ 100%. Cinnamon, spicy, sweet, red hotlike for this product are lighter chocolate flavors like
and barklike. red velvet, fudgesicle-types and mocha, as well as
Taste: @ 0.1%. Cinnamon, spicy, clovelike and sweet coffee, maple, amaretto and vanilla flavors.
with a mild burn. Horner International: www.hornerintl.com
61

Organoleptic Characteristics of Flavor Materials
Grapefruit Oil CP, Red

Supplier: Cvista
FEMA# 2530, CAS# 8016-20-4, Citrus paradise,
natural
Odor: @ 1%. Grapefruit, citrus, peely, juicy and fresh.
Taste: @ 10 ppm. Grapefruit, citrus, peely, tangy
and bitter.
Taste: @ 20 ppm. Grapefruit, peely, sweet, juicy
and waxy.
Possible applications: This characteristic essential Cassia CO2 Extract #PL24400 Type
oil will blend well in most citrus flavors, and if Supplier: Trilogy Essential Ingredients, Inc.
not the main player, will add interest as a back- Compounded product
ground note. It might also be considered in Odor: @ 100%. Spicy, cinnamonlike, hot, brown and
flavors for alcoholic beverages as a key note in slightly clovelike.
mojitos, margaritas, martinis, etc. Taste: @ 1 ppm. Sweet, spicy, warm, brown and
Cvista: www.cvista.com cinnamon/cassialike.
Taste: @ 2 ppm. Spicy, warm, cinnamon/cassialike,
brown and slightly woody.
Coffee Oil Natural
Possible applications: This is another product which
Supplier: Chemtex USA Inc.
will be very useful in spice blends and flavors
GRAS, CAS# 84650-00-0, natural, Coffea arabica,
including cola, horchata, chai, Mexican chocolate,
natural
apple pie, oral care and ‘red hot.’
Odor: @ 100%. Roasted coffee, burnt, slightly smoky
Trilogy Essential Ingredients, Inc.:
and ashy.
www.trilogyei.com
Taste: @ 10 ppm. Roasted coffee and ashy.
Taste: @ 20 ppm. Roasted coffee, ashy, burnt and
slightly cocoalike.
Sesame CO2 Extract #504568
Source: Vigon International, Inc.
Possible applications: The dark notes of this oil will
GRAS, CAS# 8008-74-0, Sesamum indicum, natural
add character to brown flavors like espresso,
Odor: @ 100%. Oily, toasted nutty, roasted and brown.
mocha, cocoa, maple and burnt sugar. Other
Taste: @ 10 ppm. Oily, roasted and nutty.
flavors that it can be used in are pork, beef, grill
Taste: @ 20 ppm. Oily, toasted, slightly nutty, roasted
and brown gravy.
and sesame.
Chemtex USA Inc.: www.chemtexusa.com
Possible applications: The roasted, toasted quality
of this extract will add character and depth to
sesame flavors and many nut flavors like peanut,
macadamia, almond, Brazil nut and pecan as
well as ‘toasted’ types. Asian spice blends, fried
fat and roasted chicken flavors are also good tar-
gets for its use.
Vigon International, Inc.: www.vigon.com
2-Ethyl-3,5(6)dimethylpyrazine
Supplier: Myrazine LLC
FEMA# 3149, CAS# 27043-05-6, natural
Natural occurrence: Peanut.
Odor: @ 1%. Musty, nutty, earthy, brown, cocoalike
and peanut skinlike.
Taste: @ 1 ppm. Earthy, nutty, musty and peanutlike.
Taste: @ 0.2 ppm. Nutty, cocoalike, musty, nutty and
roasted.
Possible applications: Although this pyrazine has
been found in only peanuts to date, it will be very
useful in many other flavors, including hazelnut,
cashew, almond, cocoa, mocha, toasted grains,
coffee, bread, coffee, baked potato and potato chip.
Myrazine LLC: www.myrazine.com

Worldwide Sources
UNITED STATES
THE FLAVOR & FRAGRANCE OUTSOURCE
“From analysis to finished sample”
Out-source your Flavor/Fragrance matching, Creative Flavor
or QA projects**GC/MS Analysis of Flavor/Foods/Fragrance
www.theflavorandfragranceoutsource.com
Sherri Walker • 614-563-1051 • sherri@theflavorandfragranceoutsource.com
Inspire Your Senses
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63
PF1806_WWS_fcx.indd 63 5/11/18 2:37 PM

Ad Index
Advertiser Web site Page

Advanced Biotech www.adv-bio.com 55
Aurochemicals www.aurochemicals.com 9
Axxence Aromatic GmbH www.axxence.com 18–19
Bedoukian Research, Inc. www.bedoukian.com 7
Berjé, Inc. www.berjeinc.com C3
Callisons www.callisons.com 61
Cilione Srl www.cilione.com 25
Ernesto Ventos SA www.ventos.com 32–33
Fleurchem, Inc. www.fleurchem.com 13
Gulcicek Kimya www.gulcicek.com 5
Hangzhou Grascent Co., Ltd. www.grascent.com 22
Indukern www.indukern-ffingredients.com 23
Lluch Essence www.lluche.com 43
MilliporeSigma sigma-aldrich.com/flavors-fragrances C2
Muller Packaging Ltd. www.muellerdrums.com 49
Natural Advantage www.natadv.com 17
OQEMA/Lansdowne Chemicals Plc ww.oqema.com/en 47
Penta Manufacturing Co. www.pentamfg.com C4
Prinova www.prinovagroup.com 39
Symrise www.symrise.com 1
Treatt PLC www.treatt.com 59
Vigon International, Inc. www.vigon.com 3
Xiamen Bestally Biotechnology Co., Ltd. www.bestally.com.cn 29
64 Ad Index Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
PF1806_Ad Index_fcx.indd 64 5/11/18 2:39 PM

Developing Better Products
through Natural Chemistry
Penta Manufacturing Company is Family Owned and Operated for Over 40 Years.
Here is a partial listing of our Family of Natural Terpene ingredients utilized in flavor & fragrance formulations.
For a complete list of all our natural, natural identical and synthetic ingredients visit us at www.pentamfg.com
■■ALPHA-BISABOLOL ■■CAMPHENE ■■GAMMA-TERPINENE ■■OCIMENE

■■ALPHA-CARYOPHYLLENE ■■CEDRENE ■■GERANIOL ■■PHYTOL
■■ALPHA-PHELLANDRENE ■■CITRAL ■■LINALOOL ■■SABINENE
■■ALPHA-PINENE ■■DELTA-3-CARENE ■■L-LIMONENE ■■TERPINEOL
■■BETA-CARYOPHYLLENE ■■D-LIMONENE ■■MYRCENE ■■TERPINOLENE
■■BETA-PINENE ■■EUCALYPTOL ■■NEROL ■■VALENCENE
■■BISABOLENE ■■FARNESENE ■■NOOTKATONE CRYSTALS
■■BORNEOL ■■FENCHYL ALCOHOL ■■NOOTKATONE LIQUID
For a complete list of all our natural, natural identical and synthetic ingredients
visit us at our www.pentamfg.com
Penta Manufacturing Company

A Division of Penta International Corporation
50 Okner Parkway, Livingston, New Jersey 07039-1604 Phone: (973) 740-2300 Fax: (973) 740-1839
E-Mail: sales@pentamfg.com Web: www.pentamfg.com
PF1806_penta_june2018.indd 1 5/1/18 3:52 PM

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Developing Better Products

through Natural Chemistry

■■ALPHA-BISABOLOL ■■CAMPHENE ■■GAMMA-TERPINENE ■■OCIMENE

Penta Manufacturing Company

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30 Rediscovering the Mint Market

36 The Mint Condition in Oral Care

50 The innovation space you never knew about.

36 [From the Vault] Mint: The Free E-Book

60 Organoleptic Characteristics of Flavor Materials

44 The Rise of the Third Option

50 What’s on Tap at Perfumarie–?

2 Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

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VIGON HAS MORE CAPABILITIES. Visit vigon.com/capabilities to

Untitled-1 2 1/12/18 5:14 PM

8 Product Round Up: Mint Ingredients Skin Inc. magazine

10 Industry: News, Events and Analysis

4 Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

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Mint’s New Story

a Grand View Research: Global Oral Care Market Report

6 Editor’s Note Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

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5. North American Peppermint Oils

8 Product Roundup Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

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At Aurochemicals, Vanillin, Natural is at the top of our list. We're

All natural - 99% pure.

The Natural Choice for Flavor

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FlavourTalks 2018 Explores the Future

Citrus Takes Center Stage

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EXHIBITORS AMSTERDAM 2018

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Givaudan Reaffirms 2020 Goals, Releases Q1 2018 Results

Reaffirming 2020 Goals

14 Industry Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

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ZoomEssence Adds to Culinary Innovation Team

MARKET AND TREND NEWS

qii Releases New Oral Beverage Flavors

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Kickback Cold Brew Launches CBD-Infused Cold Brew Tea

Juliette Has a Gun Releases Moscow Mule-Inspired Fragrance

16 Industry Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

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For Sample Requests: Samples@NatAdv.com

TECHNOLOGY IMPROVING TASTE!

Technical Support and Warehousing in Europe see RiversideAromatics.com

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20 Flavor Vol. 43 • June 2018 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

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