Mondragon, Allan Cristian M.

AT22 Auto Diagnosis and Tune-Up

BSAT- 3A2

SELF-ASSESSMENT CHECK

1. What are the tools mention when replacing the spark plug?

 spark plug

 Masking tape

 socket wrench

 safety glasses or goggles

2. Why set spark plug gap before installing it?

-The spark plug gap is set in order because it provide a space for the current to jump and produced a
spark

3. State the process of replacing the spark plug

 First, pull off the spark plug wires by carefully grasping the boot and twisting it back and forth.
Work one plug a time to avoid mixing up the wires. Note protect your eyes by wearing safety
glasses on goggle or goggle when doing this procedure.

 Second, label each flat with increasing type so that it is installed on the correct cylinder.

 Third, use a spark plug socket and ratchet to remove the plugs. If difficult to reach you might
also need extension and universals.

 Fourth, make sure to center the plug in the socket. If held at an angle the socket could break the
insulator set the gap on the new plugs using a wire gauge or feeler gauge consult the tune-up
specifications for your car for the correct gap.

 Lastly, thread the plug into the hole by hand finger tighten them another of turn using the
socket wrench. Do not over tighten
4. What are the types of spark plug according to materials used?

-Copper platinum double platinum iridium

5. Identify and discuss the different sparkplug conditions.

CONDITIONS DESCRIPTIONS

Burned

Blisters on the insulator tip, melted electrodes, or

white deposits are signs of a burned spark plug
that is running too hot. Causes can include the
engine overheating, incorrect spark plug heat
range, a loose spark plug, incorrect ignition timing
or too lean of an air/fuel mixture. The spark plug
should be replaced

Broken Electrodes

If the electrodes are broken off or flattened, it is

likely that the wrong spark plugs are installed. A
spark plug that is too long can cause extensive
damage to your engine while a short spark plug
can cause poor gas mileage and spark plug
fouling. Check your owner’s manual to ensure
that.

Worn Electrodes

Worn and eroded electrodes are symptoms of a

spark plug that is past its prime. The plug has
been in the engine too long and needs to be
replaced.
Wet

A wet spark plug can be the result of the engine

flooding. Flooding is what happens when you try
to start the engine several times without it firing
up. You can clean the spark plugs or you can just
wait for them to dry out.

Oil Deposits

Black, oily deposits on the electrodes and

insulator tip points to an oil-fouled plug. Oil could
be leaking into the cylinders, getting past pistons
that are worn or valve guides that are worn.
Finding the source of the leak is very important –
consult a mechanic for guidance. Once the
problem is addressed, you can replace the spark
plug.

Carbon Fouled

Black, dry soot on the electrodes and insulator tip

indicates a carbon-fouled plug. This can be
caused by a dirty air filter, excessive driving at
low speeds, too rich of a fuel/air mixture or idling
your vehicle for too long. Your mechanic can offer
you advice on what type of spark plug to buy to
replace the damaged plug, but you may want to
consider switching to a “hotter” spark plug (the
higher the spark plug number, the hotter the
plug).

Normal Spark Plug

A normal spark plug will have brown or grayish-

tan deposits on the side electrode. Everything is
just fine with your spark plug; you can reinstall
the spark plug.
ACTIVITIES:

1. Inspecting spark plug firing ends.

•Narrate the procedure in inspecting spark plug firing ends.

 Inspect for the following conditions of the spark plug and follow the recomendations.

 NORMAL- Light tan or gray deposits, almost brown with LPG or natural gas fuel Yellow or tan
deposits may indicate leaded fuel. Slight electrode wear Plug running at correct temperature in
a "healthy"engine. RECOMMENDATION: Set gap and reinstall. Replace if over recommend
mileage.

 WORN- Electrodes worn way. This may cause firing voltage to double (even higher on
acceleration), poor engine performance, and loss of fuel economy. Plug has served its useful life.
RECOMMENDATION: Set gap and install new plugs.

 PREIGNITION- Melting of center electrode, later melting of ground electrode and insulator.
RECOMMENDATION: Check for glowing deposits or hot spots in combustion chamber, poor
control of engine heat, cross firing, park plug heat range too high for engine or operating
conditions. Set up and install new plugs.

 DETONATION- Insulator nose has cracked and broken away as a result of shock waves from this
abnormal combustion. RECOMMENDATION: Check for faulty EGR valve, lean air-fuel mixture,
over advanced ignition timing, low-octane gasoline. Set gap and install new plugs.

 MECHANICAL DAMAGE- Foreign object in combustion chamber or on piston has struck ground
electrode, forcing it into center electrode which has bent and broken off insulator nose. Valve
overlap may allow object to travel from one cylinder to another. RECOMMENDATION: Check
that no foreign object remains in any cylinder. Make compression test. Set gap and install new
plugs.

 GAP BRIDGED- Caused by conditions similar to splash fouling Combustion deposits thrown loose
lodge between electrodes, causing short and misfire. Fluffy materials that accumulate on video
electrode melt and bridge gap when a sudden heavy load applied to engine.
RECOMMENDATION: Set gap end install new plugs.

 CARBON FOULED- Soft, sooty carbon deposits with a dry, black appearance.
RECOMMENDATION: If only one or two plugs fouled, check for sticking valves, cracked
distributor cap, bad secondary wiring, malfunctioning fuel injector. If all plugs fouled, check for
incorrect spark plug heat range, rich fuel mixture, stuck heat-control valve or choke valve, low
secondary voltage, inoperative heated-air system, low cylinder compression, Set gap and install
new plugs.
  OIL FOULED- Wet, oily coating. Plug shorted by excessive oil entering combustion chamber.
RECOMMENDATION: Check for worn piston rings or cylinder walls, worn valve guides or valve-
stem seals, plugged or inoperative PCV system, Set gap and install new plugs.

 SPLASHED FOULED- May occur after overdue tuneup. Deposit caused by misfiring and low
power operation break loose when tuneup restores normal combustion temperature. These
deposits are then thrown against the hot insulator. RECOMMENDATION: Set gap and install new
plugs.

 ASH FOULED- Buildup of deposits primarily from burning of oil and fuel additives during normal
combustion. Ash deposits usually nonconductive, but accumulations may cause plug misfire.
RECOMMENDATION: Set gap and install new plugs.

 OVERHEATED- Blistered, white or gray insulator nose. Rapid electrode-gap wear.

RECOMMENDATION: Check for over advanced ignition timing, poor engine cooling, lean air-fuel
mixture, leaking intake manifold, spark plug heat-range too hot. Set gap and install new plugs

 GLAZED- Insulator has shiny conductive coating that may cause moisture at high engine speed.
Results from sudden increase in temperature during hard acceleration. Then normal metallic
deposits melt before they are shed from the insulator. RECOMMENDATION: Consider spark
plugs with colder heat range. Set gap and install new plug.

2. Testing spark plug condition

• Procedure in Cylinder Balance Testing. Narrate the procedure in Cylinder Balance Testing

To conduct the test, a spark plug wire from the spark plug has to be disconnected and grounded.
Continue the test by disconnecting the wire to each cylinder, one at a time, and recording the change.
While conducting a cylinder power balance test, keep in mind that the cylinders that cause the least
change in engine speed when disconnected are those that are producing the least amount of power. If
there is no change in engine speed when a cylinder is disconnected, the cylinder is producing very little
or no power. The cause of the problem could be mechanical or in fuel or ignition systems. Further tests
are necessary to determine the exact cause.

•Procedure in the use of multi tester: Resistance Check and Continuity. Narrate the procedure in the use
of multi tester: Resistance Check and Continuity

Resistance Check:

 For the resistance check, first, set the multitester to 20,000 Ohms. Second, put one of the test
pins of the multitester on the terminal of the spark plug and put the other test pin on the center
 electrode of the spark plug. (NOTE: Make sure that the pin will not touch the ground electrode).
After that, look at the multimeter for the readings.

Continuity:

 For the continuity, put the settings of the multitester to continuity. Then, put one of the test
pins of the multitester on the base of the spark plug and put the other test pin on the ground
electrode of the spark plug. After that, look at the multitester for the readings.

3. Bring sparkplug and test its resistance and continuity

•Materials needed

-New/unused sparkplug

-Old Sparkplug Sandpaper

-Multi-meter

4. Inspecting sparkplug Tip

•Narrate the procedure on Inspecting sparkplug Tip

The first step is removing the spark plug you want to look at. Take the spark plug in your hand and begin
looking at it for signs of damage. Look at end of the spark plug that was in the cylinder and examine it.
You will look for the following conditions of the spark plug. Look if the spark plug is normal. A normal
spark plug will have brown or grayish-tan deposits on the side electrode. Next, look if the spark plug is
carbon fouled. Black, dry soot on the electrodes and insulator tip indicates a carbon-fouled plug. Next,
look for black, oily deposits on the electrodes and insulator tip points to an oil-fouled plug. Next, look if
the spark plug is wet. A wet spark plug can be the result of the engine flooding. Next, look for worn
electrodes. Worn and eroded electrodes are symptoms of a spark plug that is past its prime. Then, look
for broken electrodes. If the electrodes are broken off or flattened, it is likely that the wrong spark plugs
are installed. Lastly, look for burned spark plug. Blisters on the insulator tip, melted electrodes, or white
deposits are signs of a burned spark plug that is running too hot.

5. Adjusting Sparkplugs

•Narrate the procedure on Adjusting Sparkplugs

First, clean your spark plug. If you’re regapping a used plug, make sure that it’s clean ,gently scrub it with
a wire brush. If you’re using a new plug, it should be clean and new-looking, with the tip of the side
electrode centered over the center electrode. Second, select the proper number on your feeler gauge,
and run the gauge between the electrodes. To find the right gauge, look for a spec sheet for your
automobile in the owner’s manual, or you can get the information from a local auto parts store. If the
gauge doesn’t go through, or if it goes through too easily without touching the electrodes, you need to
adjust the distance between the electrodes. Third, Adjust the gap as necessary. If the wire didn’t go
through, the gap is too narrow. Hook the part of the feeler gauge that’s used for bending electrodes
under the side electrode and tug very gently to widen the gap. A feeler gauge is shown here. If the
gauge goes through too easily without touching the electrodes, the gap is wide. Press the side electrode
very gently against a clean, mar-proof surface until it’s slightly bent down toward the center electrode.
Lastly, run the gauge through the gap again. You want the gauge to go through fairly easily, just catching
the electrodes as it passes. If you keep adjusting the gap too narrow or too wide, don’t feel bad. Most
people go through the “too large–too small–too large” bit a couple of times for each plug, especially the
perfectionists.