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Canoeing The Non-Tidal Thames
Canoeing The Non-Tidal Thames
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Old tollhouse on the right. Painting by Doug Myers. Click here for more
Originally a toll bridge , the halfpenny charge for pedestrians was lifted in 1839.
Now it's “free”, you pay whether you use it or not .
Land right below the bridge for camping. Bridge House campsite. GL7 3AG. Tel Mr. R Cooper
01367 252348. Click here. The campsite is set one field back from the river but it’s an easy
carry.
11.5 miles - St John’s Lock built 1790
If you’ve forgotten to get a permit buy one here. The lock keepers are perfectly happy for you to
do this.
St John’s bridge 1886
The first bridge here built in 1229, was one of the earliest stone bridges to cross the
Thames. A new bridge built in 1790 had to be completely rebuilt in 1879.
The second line of defence against a German invasion in 1941. Liberty still has to be
fought for. Bombers and transporters fly into RAF Brize Norton from Kosovo,
Afghanistan or Iraq most days. Look out for the high tailfins and four tail engines of
the VC10.
Some functionary from the Health and Safety branch of the Nanny State has been
active here. Enjoy the ankle level "Beware of mole holes" sign. Look out for "Beware
of low signs" next year!
June 2005 update. This sort of nonsense is likely to get worse. The Environment
Agency has recently opened its Thames Waterway Plan for consultation. Click here for
details. As a taster, let me quote from "Area Aspiration O-934" for Lechlade:
"Encourage locals to walk more and therefore benefit their health; encourage more
people to visit and to spend in the Thames corridor; spread the impact of visitors away
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people to visit and to spend in the Thames corridor; spread the impact of visitors away
from honeypot areas." It's bad enough when the NHS tries to stop you smoking, but
why is the Environment Agency herding us towards the Thames and spreading us evenly
along it. Here's an environmental prediction that, in contrast to Greenpeace's (Click
here) really will come true. Before I die (I'm 50 and my parents both lived to be 80, so
let's say in the next 30 years) publicly funded bodies will have covered the entire
length of the Thames Valley path in concrete or Tarmac.
13.75 miles - Eaton footbridge.
Wood-clad steel. The site of the last Thames flash lock which disappeared in 1938.
Houseboats are moored in the backwater.
Kelmscott Manor (click here) was co-owned by William Morris the founder of the Arts &
Crafts movement and the pre-Raphaelite painter Dante Gabriel Rossetti from 1871. It
is a lovely house. Click here to read Morris's own ruminations on it.
Morris was less lovely. He was an early example of the paternalist middle class
socialists who preach against the very modernism from which they have benefited. He
objected to railways, despite visiting Kelmscott Manor, his second home, via the Great
Western. He complained that poor rural people did not care about their
environment, and founded the Commons Preservation Society, a contradiction in terms
if ever there was one.
He founded the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (click here) in
1877. They still appear to believe that every building which intellectuals think has
artistic value should be preserved whether it can be put to any good use or not. Read
his manifesto for them here together with some iGreen thoughts.
His socialist campaigns in which he objects to advertising, and the division of labour
only demonstrated his ignorance of capitalism. His wallpaper company allegedly only
sold items which he himself could make! This was 100 years after Adam Smith
published the Wealth of Nations! Read two of his pamphlets here (Against advertising,
News from Nowhere).
Were he alive today he would be against GM technology and for the building of state
subsidised wind farms everywhere except his own back yard. He would surely oppose
wallpaper, the main modern development for which he is presently remembered.
Perhaps I'm being harsh. After all he is dead. To redress the balance click here to
read a poem about Morris, by UA Fanthorpe.
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Swan hotel lawn left is a good place to watch them struggle through the bridge.
The old bridge was the site of a skirmish in 1387 between Robert de Vere, Earl of
Oxford, a supporter of Richard II, and the
Canoe centre right bank just above the bridge. Trout Inn right bank below bridge. Land on R.
bank below the bridge. Buckland Marsh, Nr Faringdon, Oxon SN7 8RF Tel: 01367 870382 Click
here. Camping along the bank. For the most secluded spot paddle 100 yards downstream and land
right.
22.75 – Tenfoot bridge
Constructed entirely of wood.
24 miles - Shifford lock cut left.
24.75 miles - Footbridge.
Wood encased steel on concrete piles
24.5 miles - Shifford Lock
Just below the lock the original course of the river enters right. You can paddle back
up this original stream about half a mile to Duxford ford (is that a tautology?), a lovely
spot for a picnic. August 2006 - spoilt a little by rubbish. Let's all try to remove some.
Camping in Duxford. JW Florey. Badgers bank. Duxford. 01865 820248
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28 miles - Hart's weir footbridge. Site of another of the long gone Thames flash locks.
A ford since Roman times. An old ferry is now only intermittently operational. Until
the 1960s there was a car ferry here! There are plans to build a footbridge.
Camping left at Lower Farm, GA Wade, Northmoor, Whitney, OX8 1AU Tel: 01865 300237.
Also at Long Meadow c/o West Farm, Eaton, Nr Abingdon, OX13 5PR. Tel: 01865 862908,
And at Elms Farm Mrs. J Ireland, West End, Stanton Harcourt. Tel 01865 880464. Both these latter
campsites are further from the river.
August 2006 - Elms Farm reported as very poor value. Shower and toilet but no hand
wash.
32 miles – The grassy bank of the enormous Farnmoor reservoir appears on the right, and the river
enters a series of meanders.
Could Farnmoor be a little smaller if water was metered and people wasted less?
33.5 miles - Pinkhill lock.
Picnic site and camping on the island. Toilets only. Eynsham, Witney, Oxon, OX8 1JH Tel: 01865
881452
The Wolvercote-Gostow circuit may be an option here, but only for the brave. Ignore
the Kings lock cut and continue on the main stream towards Kings weir. About 100yds
above the weir follow the channel left. This is a navigation for boats passing from the
Thames to the Oxford canal. After about ½ mile a canal (Duke’s cut) leaves left to
join the Oxford canal. Ignore this and stay on the main stream under the A34 to
Wolvercote weir. Tim O'Connor there is no safe portage option, just nettles, brambles
and, at best, a six foot seal launch into the pool directly below the weir. I am NOT
recommending this. There is a second gentler weir under the bridge at Wolvercote
which may be easier if you could reach it. If you do get through paddle on down to
rejoin the river just below Godstow lock, and then drop me a note.
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rejoin the river just below Godstow lock, and then drop me a note.
But see the Oxford circuit, click here. Robert Yeowell (Canoe Focus April 2006) says
the portage is OK in winter and spring.
37.5 miles - King’s Lock
Camping on the island. Toilets and water tap only. Godstow Road, Wolvercote, Oxford, Oxon, OX2
8PY. Tel: 01865 553403
38.25 miles – A34 Oxford bypass bridge 1961
38.5 miles - Godstow Bridge 1792.
Watch the power boaters navigate this. The arches are narrow and low and it won’t
be long before you witness a near miss and some marital discord. Enjoy. The Trout Inn
L. overlooks the weir stream. Free parking.
38.5 miles - Godstow Lock
Oxford Youth Hostel allows camping but is two miles from the river. Jack Straws Lane,
Headington.OX3 ODW Tel 01865 762997
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Vivien Greene, Graham Greene’s widow who died in 2003, lived nearby in Grove House,
where she founded the Rotunda Museum of Antique Dolls Houses. Elizabeth Jennings
wrote a poem about the house. Click here to read it. The museum is now closed.
Also Oxford Camping & Caravanning Club site. 1/4 mile above Sandford lock on left bank. Tel:
01865 244088
45 miles - Sandford Lock
47 miles - Radley College boathouse right
Privately built by local merchants, John Brett, John Huchyns and Geoffrey Barbour,
with the aid of Sir Peter Besils of Besselsleigh, who supplied the stone from his
quarries. It is a beautiful bridge some hundreds of yards in length, including the flood
meadows. The main stream is spanned by six arches. It was restored in 1927.
The Culham Science Centre, part of the UK Atomic Energy Authority and home to the
Joint European Torus (JET) is just north of the river. JET is a hole in the ground
containing a special particle accelerator (a Tokomak) designed to create the conditions
for fusion to occur safely. Fusion power is good. It is clean, releases no greenhouse
gases and the fuel source, water, is plentiful. So why is the government involved?
JET was set up in 1978 on the assumption that fusion power would take 30 years to
develop, and that the private sector was unlikely to make the necessary investment.
25 years of state funding later, usable fusion power is still 30 years away! It is too
soon to know if the millions of pounds (billions in today's money) spent at Culham were
well spent. If they dissuaded the private sector from investing in fusion research, by
signaling that the government was doing the work already, they may be among the
worst investments ever made. Personally I doubt if global warming will do too much
harm, but if it does the years of waste at Culham should take some of the blame.
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Designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott (1811-1878), who also designed the Albert
Memorial and the General Infirmary at Leeds where I used to work, and built in 1867
by Richard Casey using local bricks.
The cooling towers of Didcot power station dominate the long bend to Day's lock and
provide a healthy reminder that no-one would be able to enjoy this idyllic river
without the benefit of clean energy. The two gas-powered stations provide 4000MW
electricity capacity, available when demand is highest. For comparison the largest
wind farm in the UK at Carno in Powys has 56 wind turbines and a total capacity of
34MW when the wind blows. In practice, like most wind farms, Carno operates at
about 30% capacity because the wind does not blow at the right time. All 83 UK wind
farms connected to the national grid have a combined capacity of about 530MW from
about 850 wind turbines (click here for details).
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Tull was a key figure in the agricultural revolution. By increasing productivity a larger
population was fed, and agricultural labourers were freed to work in the new cities of
the industrial revolution and eventually create our present day standard of living.
Although Tull faced considerable opposition in his lifetime, his techniques spread
rapidly. Many people alive today owe their very lives to the developments he and his
colleagues pioneered.
His immediate successors developed new chemical pesticides and seed varieties by
selective breeding, and today's researchers are improving seeds yet further by genetic
modification. Sadly they also face opposition.
This Jewish independent school founded by rabbi Kopul Rosen (1913 -1962) and his
wife, stands in the grounds of Mongewell Park.
66 miles – The Ridgeway path joins the left bank here and with minor detours follows the tow path
until it crosses and leaves the river at Goring.
From here the valley narrows as the river approaches the Goring Gap. This divides the
Chiltern Hills from the Berkshire Downs.
69 miles - Goring Lock and Goring and Streatley bridge (1923) just downstream.
Streatley Youth hostel, Hill House, Reading Road Streatley. RG8 9JJ. Tel 01491
872278. Right bank 1/4 mile from river but no facilities for camping.
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Land right in the meadow after the bridge. Public car park.
75.5 miles - Mapledurham Lock
Purley right.
77 miles - Poplar island followed by Appletree Eyot.
77.9 miles - St Mary's Island. River usually busy with rowing boats from here to Caversham bridge.
Reading rowing club is 150 yards above Caversham bridge on the right. Landing and public car
park.
79 miles Caversham Bridge 1926
79.25 miles - Fry’s island.
This is canoeable, although at low water you may have to lift over the entrance sill.
After 1.5 miles it joins the river Loddon on the right. Another mile leads back to the
Thames just below Shiplake Lock.
85.5 miles - Shiplake Lock
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93.25 miles - Land left for Medmenham village, just before Medmenham Abbey. Site of disused
ferry. 0.5 mile to Dog and Badger.
Medmenham Abbey was founded by Cistercian monks in 1145. In the late 18th century
it was owned by Sir Francis Dashwood who decorated it in pornographic style, built an
erotic garden, and hosted parties for his friends, the “Hell Fire Club”. It's now a
geographic research station.
93.5 miles - Islands. Main channel left but better canoeing right.
94 miles - Land at slipway right for Hurley Caravan and Camping Park Estate Office, Hurley Farm,
Hurley, Berks SL6 5NE. Tel: 01628 823501 A big site. Rather over regulated for most canoeists
tastes but good facilities. They like you to book.
94.8 Hurley weir left.
The experts say this is the best. Click here for The Thames Weir Project. Info on all canoeable
Thames weirs.
94.9 miles - Hurley upper lock cut footbridge
95 miles - Hurley Lock
Camping on the island. Mill Lane, Hurley, Maidenhead, Berks SL6 5ND Tel: 01628 824334.
Peter Freebody (click here), one of the most famous traditional wooden boat builders
on the Thames has his boatyard on the right.
This lovely iron suspension bridge was built in 1832 by William Tierny Clark, who also
designed the suspension bridge over the Danube in Budapest.
100 miles - Bourne End Railway (1895) and Footbridge (1998). Adjacent.
101.25 miles – Cookham Bridge 1867
This wrought iron bridge, which replaced an earlier wooden bridge built in c.1840, was
originally a toll bridge. Although tolls were abolished in 1947, the toll house remains
on the northern bank.
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Home to the Astor’s, and location of many political intrigues and scandals including the
meeting of John Profumo and Christine Keeler. Now owned by the National Trust and
leased out as a hotel.
The two arches, each 123 ft long are the largest brickwork spans in the world.
Waterside Inn right. Three star Michelin restaurant run by celebrity chef Michel Roux.
Would you swap your cheese and pickle sandwich for their haute cuisine?
Is it any wonder that people prefer the car to the train when roads like this are
provided free?
Amerden Caravan and Camping Site. Old Marsh Lane, Dorney Reach, Maidenhead, Berks SL6 0EE
Tel: 01628 627461. Left bank
108.1 miles - Sharp left bend followed by entrance to the Race Course yacht basin on right.
Windsor Youth Hostel, Mill Lane, Windsor, SL4 5JE. Tel. 01753 861710. 1/4 mile from
river and no camping facilities.
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Owned by the National Trust. Site of Commonwealth Air Forces, Magna Carta and
Kennedy memorials.
117.5 miles – Runnymede (A30 & M25) Bridges (side by side) 1961 & 1983
126 miles – Walton “Temporary” bridge 1954 and Walton Bridge 19th century adjacent
The "temporary" is one of the ugliest bridges on the Thames. Taxpayer funded of
course. Compare it with any of the privately built toll bridges or Brunel's railway
bridges built by the private Great Western Railway company.
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