Wavemaker Theories

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Wavemaker Theories
Article · September 2009

DOI: 10.1142/9789812819307_0002
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Chapter 2
Wavemaker Theories
Robert T. Hudspeth
School of Civil and Construction Engineering
Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR 97331, USA
robert.hudspeth@orst.edu
Ronald B. Guenther
Department of Mathematics
Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR 97331, USA
guenther@math.orst.edu
The fundamental solutions to the wavemaker boundary value problem (WMBVP)

are given for 2D channels, 3D basins, and circular basins. The solutions are given
in algebraic equations that replace integral and differential calculus. The solutions
are generic and apply to both full- and partial-draft piston and hinged wave-
makers; to double-articulated wavemakers, and to directional wave basins. The
WMBVP is solved by conformal mapping and by domain mapping. The loads on
a wavemaker are connected to the radiation boundary value problem for semi-
immersed bodies and demonstrate the connection of these loads to the added mass
and radiation damping coefficients required to compute the dynamic response of
large Lagrangian solid bodies.
2.1. Introduction
Wavemaker theories play several important roles in coastal and ocean engineering.
The most important role is the application to laboratory wavemakers for both
wavemaker designs and wave experiments. A second role for wavemaker theories
is to compute a scalar radiated wave potential to compute the wave-induced loads
on large solid bodies applying potential wave theory. The displacements and rota-
tions of a semi-immersed six degrees-of-freedom large Lagrangian solid body are
related to the displacements and rotations of wavemakers. The boundary between a
planar wavemaker and an ideal fluid requires special care because the fluid motion
HANDBOOK OF COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING

© World Scientific Publishing Co. Pte. Ltd.
http://www.worldscibooks.com/engineering/6914.html 25
26 R. T. Hudspeth and R. B. Guenther
is an Eulerian field with time and space as the independent variables, and the
planar wavemaker is a Lagrangian solid body with time and the wavemaker as the
independent variables. Consequently, the kinematic boundary condition will be dif-
ferent from the free surface boundary that separates two Eulerian fluid fields of air
and water. The boundary between the fluid and wavemaker separates a Eulerian
field (the fluid) from a Lagrangian body (the wavemaker), and the wavemaker
kinematic boundary condition (WMKBC) must convert the Lagrangian wavemaker
motion to a Eulerian field motion in order that the independent variables for both
dependent motion variables are equivalent. This may be accomplished by multi-
plying the Lagrangian motion of the wavemaker by the unit normal to the boundary.
Because the unit normal is a function of space and the Lagrangian wavemaker
motion is a function of time, the product will produce a motion that is a function
of both space and time that are the independent variables of the Eulerian fluid
field. Although this fact is not central to the WMBVP, it is an important con-
nection between the WMBVP and the radiation potential boundary value problem
for semi-immersed large Lagrangian solid bodies.1
The formulae for computing the two fundamental fluid unknowns for an incom-
pressible fluid of the velocity q(x, z, t) and the pressure p(x, z, t) from a scalar
velocity potential Φ(x, z, t) are given first. The classical linear WMBVP for dimen-
sionless 2D planar wavemaker is reviewed for two types of double-articulated planar
wavemakers. The sway X1 (t) displacement of a full-draft piston wavemaker and the
roll Θ5 (t) rotation of a hinged wavemaker are connected directly to the sway dis-
placement and the roll rotation of a semi-immersed large Lagrangian solid body. In
this review, integral calculus formulae for computing the integrals that are required
to compute the coefficients of the eigenseries for the fluid motion, to compute the
loads on the wavemaker and the average power required to generate the propagating
waves are replaced by generic algebraic formulae. For example, an integral equation
that is required to compute the nth eigenseries coefficient Cn for the nth eigen-
function Ψn (Kn , z/h) from a wavemaker shape function χ(z/h) may be computed
symbolically and expressed by a dimensionless algebraic formula In (α, β, b, d, Kn ),
that is given by
0
Cn = h χ(z/h)d(z/h)Ψn (z/h)d(z/h) = In (α, β, b, d, Kn ). (2.1)
−1
The coefficient in (2.1) may then be computed very efficiently by substitution into
algebraic formulae in all subsequent applications. Next a dimensionless theory for
both amplitude-modulated (AM) and phase-modulated (PM) circular wavemakers is
reviewed. Then, a dimensionless theory for double-actuated wavemakers is reviewed.
Following that, a dimensionless directional wavemaker theory for large wave basins
based on a WKBJ approximation1 is reviewed. Next, a theory for sloshing waves
due to transverse motions of a segmented wavemaker in a narrow wave channel is
reviewed. Then, 2D planar wavemakers are mapped to a unit circle by conformal
mapping and to a fixed rectangular domain by domain mapping; and both the linear
and nonlinear wavemaker solutions are computed numerically.
http://www.worldscibooks.com/engineering/6914.html
Wavemaker Theories 27
2.2. Planar Wavemaker in a 2D Channel
Two generic planar wavemaker configurations are shown in Figs. 2.1(a) and 2.1(b).
The fluid motion may be obtained from the negative gradient of a dimensional scalar
velocity potential Φ(x, z, t) according to
q(x, z, t) = u(x, z, t)ex + w(x, z, t)ez = −∇2 Φ(x, z, t), (2.2a)
where the 2D gradient operator in (2.2a) is given by
∂(•) ∂(•)
∇2 (•) = ex + ez .
∂x ∂z
Fig. 2.1(a). Definition sketch for a Type I planar wavemaker.
Fig. 2.1(b). Definition sketch for a Type II planar wavemaker.

The total pressure field P (x, z, t) may be computed from the unsteady Bernoulli
equation according to

∂Φ(x, z, t) 1 2
P (x, z, t) = p(x, z, t) + pS (z) = ρ − |∇Φ(x, z, t)| + Q(t) − ρgz,
∂t 2
(2.2b)
where Q(t) = the Bernoulli constant; and the free surface elevation η(x, t) for zero
atmospheric pressure according to

1 ∂Φ(x, η, t) 1 2
η(x, t) = − |∇Φ(x, η, t)| + Q(t) ; x ≥ ξ(η, t); z = η(x, t).
g ∂t 2
(2.2c)
The scalar velocity potential must be a solution to the Laplace equation
∇22 Φ = 0; x ≥ ξ(z, t), −h ≤ z ≤ η(x, t), (2.3a)
with the following boundary conditions:

Kinematic Bottom Boundary Condition (KBBC):
∂Φ
= 0; x ≥ ξ(−h, t), z = −h. (2.3b)
∂z
Combined Kinematic and Dynamic Free Surface Boundary Condition (CKDFSBC):

∂2Φ ∂Φ ∂ 1 dQ
+ g − − ∇Φ · ∇ |∇Φ|2 + = 0; x ≥ ξ(η, t); z = η(x, t).
∂t2 ∂z ∂t 2 dt
(2.3c)
Kinematic WaveMaker Boundary Condition (KWMBC):
A Stokes material surface for planar wavemaker is W (x, z, t) = x − ξ(z, t), and the
Stokes material derivative gives the KWMBC from
DW ∂Φ ∂ξ ∂Φ ∂ξ
= + − = 0; x = ξ(z, t), −h ≤ z ≤ η(t). (2.3d)
Dt ∂x ∂t ∂z ∂z
Kinematic Radiation Boundary Condition (KRBC):

A KRBC is required as x → +∞ for uniqueness to insure that propagating waves are
only right progressing or that evanescent eigenmodes are bounded. For a temporal
dependence proportional to exp ±iωt, the KRBC may be expressed by

∂
lim ± iKn Φ(x, z, t) = 0. (2.3e)
x→+∞ ∂x
A velocity potential ϕ(x, z) may be defined by the real part of
Φ(x, z, t) = Re{φ(x, z) exp −i(ωt + ν)}, (2.4)

where Re{•} means the real part of {•}; and ν = arbitrary phase angle. The
linearized WMBVP for kh = O(1) is1
∇22 ϕ(x, z) = 0; 0 ≤ x < +∞; −h ≤ z ≤ 0, (2.5a)
∂ϕ(x, z)
= 0; 0 ≤ x + ∞; z = −h, (2.5b)
∂z
∂ϕ(x, z)
− k0 ϕ(x, z) = 0; 0 ≤ x < +∞; z = 0, (2.5c)
∂z

∂
lim − iKn ϕ(x, z) = 0, (2.5d)
x→+∞ ∂x
∂ϕ(x, z) ∂ξ(z, t)
exp −i(ωt + ν) = − ; x = 0; −h ≤ z ≤ 0, (2.5e)
∂x ∂t

−iω
η(x, t) = Re ϕ(x, 0) exp −i(ωt + ν) ; x ≥ 0; z = 0, (2.5f)
g
∂Φ(x, z, t)
p(x, z, t) = ρ ; 0 ≤ x < +∞; z = 0, (2.5g)
∂t
where ko = ω 2 /g.
Because the boundary conditions defined by (2.5b)–(2.5e) are prescribed on
boundaries with constant values of the independent variables x and z, a solution by
the method of separation of (independent) variables may be computed.1 The instan-
taneous wavemaker displacement ξ(z, t) from its mean position x = 0 is assumed
to be strictly periodic in time with period T = 2π/ω, and may be expressed by

S
ξ(z/h, t) = Re i χ(z/h) exp −i(ωt + ν)
(∆/h)

S
= χ(z/h) sin(ωt + ν). (2.6)
(∆/h)
The specified shape function χ(z/h) for the Type I wavemaker shown in Fig. 2.1(a)
is valid for either a double-articulated piston or hinged wavemaker of variable draft
and is given by the following dimensionless equation for a straight line2 :
χ(z/h) = [α(z/h) + β][U (z/h + 1 − d/h) − U (z/h + b/h)], (2.7a)
where α, β = dimensionless constants; U (•) = the Heaviside step function with two
boundary conditions given by
[S/(∆/h)]χ(z/h = −1 + d/h + ∆b /h + ∆/h) = S, (2.7b)
[S/(∆/h)]χ(z/h = −1 + d/h + ∆b /h) = Sb , (2.7c)
that may be solved simultaneously for the dimensionless coefficients α, β to obtain
α = (1 − Sb /S); β = ∆/h + α(1 − d/h − ∆b /h − ∆/h). (2.7d,e)
The coefficients α and β for the specified shape function χ(z/h) in (2.7) may be
obtained for the Type II wavemaker shown in Fig. 2.1(b) by substituting
S = S̄ + Ŝ; Sb = S̄; ∆=h−b−d
into the following boundary conditions2 in (2.7b) and (2.7c):

(S̄ + Ŝ)
χ(z/h = −b/h) = S̄ + Ŝ, (2.8a)
1 − b/h − d/h

(S̄ + Ŝ)
χ(z/h = −1 + d/h) = S̄, (2.8b)
1 − b/h − d/h
that may be solved simultaneously for the constant coefficients α, β to obtain

Ŝ d S̄ b
α= ; β =1− − . (2.8c,d)
S̄ + Ŝ h S̄ + Ŝ h
2.2.1. Eigenfunction solution to the WMBVP

Because all of the boundary conditions defined by (2.5b)–(2.5e) are now prescribed
for constant values of the independent variables (x, z) and the dimensionless
parameter kh = O(1), a solution by separation of independent variables1 is
suggested according to
ϕ(x, z) = X(x) • Z(z). (2.9)
The eigenseries solution may be written compactly as1,3,4

Φ(x, z, t; Kn ) = Cn cosh Kn (z + h) exp +i(Kn x − ωt + ν), (2.10a)

n=1
where Kn = k for n = 1 and Kn = +iκn for n ≥ 2 provided that
ko h − kh tanh kh = ko h + κn h tan κn h = 0; n > 2. (2.10b)
The eigenseries (2.10a) may be separated into a propagating Φp (x, z, t; k) and

evanescent eigenmodes Φe (x, z, t; κn ) or “local ” wave components3 according to
Φ(x, z, t; Kn ) = Φp (x, z, t; k) + Φe (x, z, t; κn )

= C1 cosh k(z + h) + Cn cos κn (z + h) exp −[κn x + i(ωt + ν)].

n=2
(2.10c)
The wave number k = 2π/λ where λ = wavelength. Because the numerical value of
kh must be computed from an eigenvalue problem in the vertical z coordinate, equiv-
alence of the eigenvalue k to the wave number 2π/λ requires a pseudo-horizontal
boundary condition of periodicity given by k = 2π/λ and ϕ(x + λ, z) = ϕ(x, z). It
is computationally efficient to normalize the eigenseries in (2.10a) according to
cosh Kn h(1 + z/h)
Ψn (Kn , z/h) = ; n = 1, 2, . . . , (2.11a)
Nn
where the nondimensional normalizing constant Nn is

 2kh + sinh 2kh
0 
 ; n = 1, (2.11b)
4kh
Nn2 = cosh2 Kn h(1 + z/h)d(z/h) =
−1  2κn h + sin 2κn h

 ; n ≥ 2. (2.11c)
4κn h
The eigenseries in (2.10a) may be written as an orthonormal eigenseries by
∞

Φ(x, z, t; Kn ) = Cn Ψn (Kn , z/h) exp i(Kn x − ωt − ν), (2.12)

n=1
where the orthonormal eigenfunction Ψn (•,•) is dimensionless.
2.2.2. Evaluation of Cn by WM vertical displacement χ(z/h)

The following dimensionless coefficient computed from (2.5e) will replace integral
calculus with algebraic substitution for the coefficients Cn in the eigenseries (2.12):
−b/h
In (α, β, b, d, Kn ) = [α(z/h) + β]Ψn (Kn , z/h)d(z/h)
−1+d/h
 

 d b 
K
 n h 1 − sinh K d − K b sinh K h 1 − 
h 
n n n
α h
=
(Kn h)2 Nn 
 b 


 − cosh Kn h 1 − + cosh Kn d 

h

β b
+ sinh Kn h) 1 − − sinh Kn d (2.13)
(Kn h)Nn h
that is dimensionless when α and β are given by (2.7d) and (2.7e) or (2.8c) and
(2.8d). The coefficients Cn may be computed algebraically by (2.13) from the
KWMBC (2.5e) to obtain
Sωh
Cn = i In (α, β, b, d, Kn ), (2.14)
Kn ∆
and the orthonormal eigenseries (2.12) is given by
Φ(x, z, t; Kn )

∞
iSωh
= In (α, β, b, d, Kn )Ψn (Kn , z/h) exp i(Kn x − ωt − ν). (2.15)
n=1
Kn ∆
2.2.3. Decay distance of evanescent eigenmodes n ≥ 2

Numerical solutions and experimental measurements of ocean and coastal designs
require that the KRBC (2.5d) be applied far enough away so that only the prop-
agating eigenmode for n = 1 in (2.12) is measurable. The evanescent eigenseries
in (2.12) for n ≥ 2 will decay spatially at least as fast as the smallest evanescent
eigenvalue κ2 . This eigenvalue must be κ2 h > (n − 3/2)π = π/2. If the smallest
value for κ2 h > π/2, then κ2 > π/2h and ϕ(x, z) ∝ exp −(πx/2h). For the values
of the evanescent eigenseries to be less than 1% of their values at the wavemaker,
ϕ(x, z) ∝ exp −(πxd /2h) = 0.01 and πxd /(2h) = 4.6 ≈ 3π/2, and the minimum
decay distance is xd ≥ 3h.
2.2.4. Transfer function for wave amplitude

from wavemaker stroke
The average rate of work or power done by a wavemaker of width B is1
τ +1 0
Ẇ τ = Pτ = B h p(x, z, τ )u(x, z, τ )d(z/h)dτ, (2.16a)
τ −1
where the temporal averaging operator is defined by

τ +1
•τ = (•)dτ, (2.16b)
τ
and

ρω 3 S 2 Bh4
Ẇ τ = Pτ = I12 (α, β, b, d, k), (2.16c)
∆2 2kh
so that all of the average power from a wavemaker is transferred to only the
propagating eigenmode. The average energy flux in a linear wave is given by1

ρgBA2
Ėτ = CG , (2.16d)
2
where the group velocity CG is given by1

C 2kh
CG = 1+ . (2.16e)
2 sinh 2kh
Equating (2.16c) to (2.16d) gives the following transfer function for a planar
wavemaker:

A ko h
= Ψ1 (k, 0)I1 (α, β, b, d, k). (2.16f)
S kh
2.2.5. Hydrodynamic pressure loads (added mass

and radiation damping)
The wave loads on a planar wavemaker may be estimated by integrating the total
pressure over the wetted surface of the wavemaker, i.e.,

F n
= P dS, (2.17a,b)
M r×n
S
0
where the outward pointing unit normal n points from the wavemaker into the fluid,
and the pseudo-unit normal n for the rotational modes is given by
n = r × n = (z + h − d)nx ey = ny ey . (2.17c)
Force. For the Type I piston wavemaker of total width B, the horizontal component
of the pressure force on the fluid side only may be computed from the real part of
−b/h

F1 (t) = Re iρωBh Cn Ψn (Kn , z/h)d(z/h) exp −i(ωt + ν)

n=1 −1+d/h
= −F1 cos(ωt + ν − α1 ), (2.18a)
where the static component of the pressure force on the fluid side only is
ρgBh2
Fs = − [1 − 2(d/h) + (d/h)2 − (b/h)2 ]. (2.18b)
2
The hydrodynamic component of F1 (t) may be separated linearly into a propagating
and an evanescent component that are related to the piston wavemaker translational
velocity and acceleration, respectively, from the real part of
F1 (t) = −Re{[λ11 (Sω) + µ11 (−iSω 2 )] exp −i(ωt + ν)}

= −µ11 (−Sω 2 sin(ωt + ν)) − λ11 (Sω cos(ωt + ν)) (2.18c)
= Re{−µ11 Ẍ1 (t) − λ11 Ẋ1 (t)}, (2.18d)
where the added mass coefficient µ11 may be computed from the evanescent
eigenmodes only, and the radiation damping coefficient λ11 may be computed from
the propagating eigenmode only. The average power may be computed from
λ11 (Sω)2
−F1 Ẋ1 t = . (2.19a)
2
Equating (2.19a) to (2.16d) yields
2
A1 ρBh
λ11 = CG , (2.19b)
S1 ko h
that relates the radiation damping coefficient to the square of the ratio of the
radiated wave amplitude to the amplitude of the wavemaker displacement.
Moment. For the Type I wavemaker of width B, the dynamic pressure moment
on one side only of the wavemaker may be computed from the real part of

−b/h
2 z d
M5 (t) = Re iρωBh Cn 1+ −
n=1 −1+d/h h h

z
× Ψn (Kn , z/h)d exp −(ωt + ν)
h
= −M5 cos(ωt + ν − α5 ), (2.20a)
and the static component of the pressure moment on the fluid side only is
3 2 2
3 2
ρgBh3 d b d b d b
Ms = 1− +2 +3 − −3 1− .
6 h h h h h h
(2.20b)
The pressure moment M5 (t) in (2.20a) may be separated linearly into a propagating
and an evanescent component that are related to the rotational velocity and accel-
eration from the real part of1

Sω 2
M5 (t) = −Re µ55 −i
∆(1 + ∆b /∆)

Sω
+ λ55 −i exp −i(ωt + ν) ,
∆(1 + ∆b /∆)
M5 (t) = −µ55 Θ̈5 (t) − λ55 Θ̇5 (t), (2.21a)
where

I 2 (α, β, b, d, κn )
µ55 = ρBh4 n
; (2.21b)
n=2
κn h
I12 (α, β, b, d, k)
λ55 = ρωBh4 . (2.21c)
kh
2.3. Circular Wavemaker
Havelock5 applied Fourier integrals to develop a theory for surface gravity waves
forced by circular wavemakers in water of both infinite and finite depth. The fluid
motion may be obtained from the negative gradient of a scalar velocity potential
Φ(r, θ, z, t) according to
q(r, θ, z, t) = −∇Φ(r, θ, z, t), (2.22a)

where the 3D gradient operator ∇(•) in polar coordinates is

∂ 1 ∂ ∂
∇(•) = er + eθ + e3 (•). (2.22b)
∂r r ∂θ ∂z
The total pressure field P (r, θ, z, t) may be computed from the unsteady Bernoulli
equation in polar coordinates according to
P (r, θ, z, t) = p(r, θ, z, t) + pS (z)

∂Φ(r, θ, z, t) 1
=ρ − |∇Φ(r, θ, z, t)|2 + Q(t) − ρgz, (2.22c)
∂t 2
where Q(t) = the Bernoulli constant, and the free surface elevation η(r, θ, t) for zero
atmospheric pressure according to

1 ∂Φ(r, θ, η, t) 1 Q(t)
η(r, θ, t) = − |∇Φ(r, θ, η, t)|2 + ;
g ∂t 2 ρ
r ≥ b + ξ(θ, η, t); z = η(r, θ, t). (2.22d)
The scalar velocity potential Φ(r, θ, z, t) must be a solution to the continuity

equation

1 ∂ ∂Φ 1 ∂2Φ ∂2Φ
∇2 Φ = r + 2 + = 0,
r ∂r ∂r r ∂θ2 ∂z 2
r ≥ b + ξ(θ, z, t); 0 ≤ θ ≤ 2π; −h ≤ z ≤ η(r, θ, t), (2.23a)
with the following boundary conditions:

Kinematic Bottom Boundary Condition (KBBC):
∂Φ
= 0; r ≥ b + ξ(θ, −h, t); 0 ≤ θ ≤ 2π; z = −h. (2.23b)
∂z
Combined Kinematic and Dynamic Free Surface Boundary Condition (CKDFSBC):

∂2Φ ∂Φ ∂ 1 dQ
+ g − − ∇Φ · ∇ |∇Φ|2 + = 0;
∂t2 ∂z ∂t 2 dt
r ≥ b + ξ(θ, η, t); 0 ≤ θ ≤ 2π; z = η(r, θ, t). (2.23c)
Kinematic WaveMaker Boundary Condition (KWMBC):
∂Φ ∂ξ 1 ∂Φ ∂ξ ∂Φ ∂ξ
+ − − = 0; r = ξ(θ, z, t); −h ≤ z ≤ η(b, θ, t). (2.23d)
∂r ∂t r2 ∂θ ∂θ ∂z ∂z
Two types of circular cylindrical wavemaker displacements ξ(θ, z, t) may be ana-

lyzed, viz., amplitude-modulated (AM) and phase-modulated (PM) wavemakers.
The distinction between these two types is in the azimuthal θ dependency of the
wavemaker displacement ξ(θ, z, t) from its mean position r = b, given by

mS cos mθ sin(ωt + ν) (2.23e)
ξ(θ, z, t) = χ(z/h) .
(∆/h) sin(ωt + ν + mθ) (2.23f)
Kinematic Radiation Boundary Condition (KRBC):

∂
√ lim ± iKn Φ(r, θ, z, t) = 0; r → ∞. (2.23g)
K n r→∞ ∂r
Finally, physically realizable solutions to (2.23a) must be periodic in θ, i.e.,

Φ(r, θ, z, t) = Φ(r, θ + 2π, z, t). (2.23h)
The dimensional WMBVP may be scaled and linearized1 by expanding the variables
in perturbation series with a dimensionless perturbation parameter ε = kA. A scalar
radiated velocity potential ϕ(r, θ, z) may be defined by the real part of
Φ(r, θ, z, t) = Re{ϕ(r, θ, z) exp −i(ωt + ν)}. (2.24)
A linearized WMBVP may be obtained by setting the dimensionless parameter
kA = ε = 0 and by requiring that kh = O(1). This linearized WMBVP is
∇2 ϕ(r, θ, z) = 0; b ≤ r < +∞, 0 ≤ θ ≤ 2π, −h ≤ z ≤ 0; (2.25a)
∂ϕ(r, θ, z)
= 0; b ≤ r < +∞, 0 ≤ θ ≤ 2π, z = −h; (2.25b)
∂z
∂ϕ(r, θ, z)
− ko ϕ(r, θ, z) = 0; b ≤ r < +∞, 0 ≤ θ ≤ 2π, z = 0; (2.25c)
∂z

∂
√ lim − iKn ϕ(r, θ, z) = 0; (2.25d)
|Kr |r→+∞ ∂r
∂ϕ(r, θ, z) ∂ξ(θ, z, t)
exp −i(ωt + ν) = − ; r = b, 0 ≤ θ ≤ 2π, −h ≤ z ≤ 0;
∂r ∂t
(2.25e)

−iωϕ(r, θ, z)
η(r, θ, t) = Re exp −i(ωt + ν) ; b ≤ r < ∞; 0 ≤ θ ≤ 2π; z = 0;
g
(2.25f)
P (r, θ, z, t) = {p(r, θ, z, t)} + ps (z)
= Re{−iωρϕ(r, θ, z) exp −i(ωt + ν)} − ρgz; (2.25g)
ϕ(r, θ, z) = ϕ(r + λ, θ, z); ϕ(r, θ, z) = ϕ(r, θ + 2π, z). (2.25h,i)

The specified wavemaker shape function χ(z/h) is valid for either a double-
articulated piston or hinged circular AM or PM wavemaker of variable draft that
Fig. 2.2. Definition sketch for circular wavemaker.
is shown in Fig. 2.2 is identical to (2.7) for a 2D planar wavemaker with the
dimension b replaced with a and the stroke S replaced with the azimuthal stroke
m S. The solution to the WMBVP (2.25) may be compactly expressed by the fol-
lowing orthonormal eigenseries:
∞

(1)
m ϕ(r, θ, z) = Cmn Ψn (Kn , z/h)Hm (Kn r)MA(P ) (mθ), (2.26a,b)
n=1
where the azimuthal mode function is

cos mθ
MA(P ) (mθ) = ; m ≥ 0 and integer, (2.26c,d)
exp −imθ
and where (2.26a) represents an AM wavemaker; (2.26b) represents a PM

wavemaker; Ψn (Kn , z/h) = the orthonormal eigenseries defined in (2.12);
(1)
Hm (Kn r) = the Hankle function of the first kind. When K1 = k and Kn = iκn for
n ≥ 2 and integer,
(1) 2 −(m+1)
Hm (iκn r) = Jm (iκn r) + iYm (iκn r) = i Km (κn r), (2.26e)
π
where Km (•) = the Modified Bessel (or Kelvin) function of the second kind of
order m. The coefficients Cmn may be computed by expanding the KWMBC in an
eigenseries following the procedure in (2.14) and obtaining
m Sj hω In (α, β, a, d, Kn )
Cmn = − (1)
; n ≥ 1 and integer; (2.26f)
Kn ∆ Ln (Hm (Kn b))
dZm (ζn ) 1
Ln (Zm (ζn )) = = {Zm−1 (ζn ) − Zm+1 (ζn )};
dζn 2
(1)
Zm (ζn ) = Jm (ζn ), Ym (ζn ), Km (ζn ), Hm (ζn ). (2.26g)
The solution to (2.25) is given by the real part of the following eigenseries expansion:
m Φj (r, θ, z, t) m Φpj (r, θ, z, t) + m Φej (r, θ, z, t)

=
[m Sj hω] [m Sj hω]
 (1) 

 I1 (α, β, a, d, k) Ψ1 (k, z/h)Hm (kr)


 k∆ (1)
L1 (Hm (kb))


= −Re  

 
In (α, β, a, d, κn ) Ψn (κn , z/h)Km (κn r) 
∞



 +
n=2
κn ∆ Ln (Km (κn b))






−i(ωt+ν)
× MA(P ) (mθ)e . (2.27a,b)





Because the asymptotic behavior of the evanescent eigenseries Km (κn r) depends

on the mode m(1) , it is not possible to specify a minimum distance from the wave-
maker equilibrium boundary at r = b where the evanescent eigenvalues are less
than 1% of their value at the circular wavemaker boundary. The wave field must be
computed far away from the wavemaker, and it is understood that far away must
be computed uniquely for each radial mode m for either an AM or PM circular
wavemaker. The evaluation of the power, forces, and moments, and added mass and
radiation damping coefficients for both AM and PM circular wavemakers are given
by Hudspeth.1
2.4. Directional Wavemakers
Directional wavemakers are vertically segmented wavemakers that undulate sinu-

ously and, consequently, are also called snake wavemakers. Segmented directional
wavemakers may be driven either in the middle of each vertical segment or at the
joint between vertical segments. Because of these two methods of wave generation,
parasitic waves are formed along the wavemaker due to either the discontinuity of
the wavemaker surface (middle segment driven) or of the derivative of the wave-
maker surface (joint driven). A dimensional scalar spatial velocity potential ϕ(x, y, z)
may be defined by the real part of
Φ(x, y, z, t) = Re{ϕ(x, y, z) exp −i(ωt + ν)}. (2.28a)
The dimensional linear fluid dynamic pressure field p(x, y, z, t) and 3D fluid velocity
vector field may be computed from
∂Φ(x, y, z, t)
p(x, y, z, t) = ρ , (2.28b)
∂t
q(x, y, z, t) = −∇3 Φ(x, y, z, t), (2.28c)
∂(•) ∂(•) ∂(•)

∇3 (•) = ex + ey + ez . (2.28d)
∂x ∂y ∂z
The dimensional WMBVP for directional waves is given by
∇23 ϕ(x, y, z) = 0; x ≥ 0; B ≤ y ≤ +B; −h(x, y) ≤ z ≤ 0, (2.29a)
∂ϕ(x, y, 0)
− ko ϕ = 0; x ≥ 0; −B ≤ y ≤ +B; z = 0, (2.29b)
∂z
∂ϕ
= 0; x ≥ 0; y = ±B; −h(x, y) ≤ z ≤ 0, (2.29c)
∂y

∂ξ(y, z, t) 
x = 0,
∂Φ(x, y, z, t)
=− ; −B ≤ y ≤ +B, (2.29d)
∂x ∂t 
−h(0, y) ≤ z ≤ 0,

∂
lim − iKn ϕ(x, y, z) = 0, (2.29e)
x→+∞ ∂x
∂ϕ(x, y, z)
= −∇2 ϕ(x, y, z) · ∇2 h(x, y); z = −h(x, y), (2.29f)
∂z
2
∂ ∂2
∇22 (•) = , (•), (2.29g)
∂x2 ∂y 2

Û(y, z)
ξ(y, z, t) = Re i [∆U (y, a)][∆U (z, b, d)] exp −i(ωt + ν) , (2.29h)
ω

sω
Û (y, z) = Γ(y)χ(z/ho ), (2.29i)
∆/ho
∆U (y, a) = U (y + a− ) − U (y − a+ ),
(2.29j)
∆U (z, b, d) = U (z + h − d) − U (z + b),
Fig. 2.3. Definition sketch for rectangular directional wave basin.
where ko = ω 2 /g and where a± denotes the (possibly nonsymmetric) transverse ends

of the directional wavemaker in the transverse y-direction in Fig. 2.3. The solution
to the WMBVP in (2.29) is given by the following set of orthonormal eigenfunctions:
g
ϕ(x, y, z) = i ζn (x, y)Υn (Kn , z/h), (2.30a)

ω n=1

 Ψ1 (k, z/h) ; n = 1, (2.30b)
Υn (Kn , z/h) = Ψ1 (k, 0)

Ψ1 (κn , z/h); n ≥ 2, (2.30c)
ko h = Kn h tanh Kn h = 0; n = 1, 2, 3, . . . , (2.30d)
where K1 = k and Kn = +iκn for n ≥ 2 and Ψn (•) is defined in (2.11). The

orthonormal eigenfunctions (2.30b) and (2.30c) are applicable strictly only for con-
stant depth wave basins; however, they may be applied to slowly varying depth wave
basins if (2.30b) and (2.30c) are considered to be evaluated only locally over rela-
tively small horizontal length scales (e.g., several wavelengths λ), where the depth
may be considered to be locally equal to a constant by a Taylor series expansion of
the depth.1
Substituting (2.30a) into (2.29a) yields the following 2D Helmholtz equation:
∇22 ζ(x, y) + Kn2 ζ(x, y) = 0; x ≥ 0, −B ≤ y ≤ +B. (2.31)
Alternatively, for wave basins with mildly sloping bottoms, the mild slope equation
may be applied according to1
∇2 • (CCG ∇2 ζ(x, y)) + Kn2 CCG ζ(x, y) = 0, (2.32)

where the wave group velocity CG is given by (2.16e). If the product CCG is a
constant, (2.32) reduces to the 2D Helmholtz equation (2.31). Applying the WKBJ
approximation1 for the x-dependent solution in the method of separation of variables
to (2.32) yields the following solution1 :
g
Φ(x, y, z, t) = Re i ζ(x, y)Υn (Kn , z/h) exp −i(ωt + ν)
ω
 
g
M

 [C(x)CG (x)]x=0 


i Amm Ξm (µm , y/B) 

ω m=0 C(x)CG (x)
= Re

 x 


 × Υn (Kn , z/h) exp i Qmn dξ exp − i(ωt + ν) 

(2.33a)
cos µm (y/B − 1) mπ
Ξm (µm , y/B) = ; Mm = 1 + δm0 ; µm = (2.33b–d)
Mm 2B

Qmn = Kn2 − µ2m ; m > 0. (2.33e)
The coefficients Am may be computed from (2.29d) by expanding the wavemaker

shape function in orthonormal eigenfunctions1 and are given by
Amn
k S
= −Ψn (Kn , 0)In (α, β, b, d, k)
Qmm (∆/hxo )
+
a+ /B
× Γj (qi , y/B)Ξm (µm , y/B)d(y/B). (2.34)
− a /B
−
2.4.1. Full-draft piston wavemaker

The prescribed transverse y-component of the snake displacement of a full-draft
(b = d = 0) piston (α = 0 and β = 1) wavemaker may be expressed as
+∞

Γj (qj , y/B) = c̃j exp i[ky B(y/B + νy )], (2.35a)

j=−∞
where the coefficients c̃j may be computed from the integral in (2.34) by
+
a+ /B
cmj = Γj (qj , y/B)Ξm (µm , y/B)d(y/B)
− a /B
−
Ra+ ,a− + iIa+ ,a−

= . (2.35b)
mB(qj2 − µ2m )(1 + δm0 )
If the full-draft piston snake wavemaker spans the entire width of the wave basin
so that a± = ±B, then (2.35b) reduces to the integral in (2.34) and

sin[qj B(νj − 1)] + (−1)m sin[qj B(νj + 1)]
4qi B
−i{cos[qj B(νj − 1)] + (−1)m cos[qj B(νj + 1)]}
cmj = . (2.35c)
((qj B − m2 )2 )(1 + δm0 )
Values for cmj for (possibly nonsymmetric) values for a± are given by Hudspeth.1
2.5. Sloshing Waves in a 2D Wave Channel
A long rectangular wave channel with a horizontal flat bottom, two rigid vertical
sidewalls, and a wavemaker may generate either 2D, long-crested progressive waves
or two types of transverse waves, viz.,
(1) sloshing waves that are excited directly by transverse motion of the wavemaker
or
(2) cross waves that are excited parametrically by the progressive waves at a
sub-harmonic of the wavemaker frequency.
The WMBVP for 3D sloshing waves is identical to (2.5) for planar 2D wave-
makers except for the KWMBC at x = 0 and an additional kinematic boundary
condition on the sidewalls of the 2D wave channel at y = ±B in Fig. 2.4. The
kinematic and dynamic wave fields may be computed from a dimensional 3D scalar
Fig. 2.4. Definition sketch for a sloshing wave channel.

velocity potential Φ(x, y, z, t). The fluid velocity q(x, y, z, t) may be computed from
the negative directional derivative of a scalar velocity potential by
q(x, y, z, t) = −∇Φ(x, y, z, t). (2.36a)
The dimensional fluid dynamic pressure field p(x, y, z, t) may be computed from
∂Φ(x, y, z, t)
p(x, y, z, t) = ρ . (2.36b)
∂t
A spatial velocity potential ϕ(x, y, z) may be defined by the real part of
Φ(x, y, z, t) = Re{ϕ(x, y, z) exp −i(ωt + ν)}. (2.36c)
The WMBVP for sloshing waves is given by the following:
∇2 ϕ(x, y, z) = 0; x ≥ 0; −B ≤ y ≤ +B; −h ≤ z ≤ 0; (2.37a)
∂ϕ(x, y, −h)
= 0; x ≥ 0; −B ≤ y ≤ +B; z = −h; (2.37b)
∂z
∂ϕ(x, y, 0)
− ko ϕ = 0; x ≥ 0; −B ≤ y ≤ +B; z = 0; (2.37c)
∂z
∂Φ(x, y, z, t) ∂ξ(y, z, t)
=− ; x = 0; −B ≤ y ≤ +B; −h ≤ z ≤ 0; (2.37d)
∂x ∂t
∂ϕ
= 0; x ≥ 0 y = ±B; −h ≤ z ≤ 0; (2.37e)
∂y

∂
lim − iKn ϕ(x, y, z) = 0; (2.37f)
x→+∞ ∂x

 x ≥ 0,
−iω
η(x, y, t) = Re Φ(x, y, 0, t) ; −B ≤ y ≤ +B, (2.37g)
g 
z = 0.
A solution to (2.37) is given by the following eigenfunction expansions1 :

Φ(x, y, z, t) = Re ψ̃n (x, y)Ψn (Kn , z/h) exp −i(ωt + ν) , (2.38a)

n=1
ϕ(x, y, z) = ψ̃n (x, y)Ψn (Kn , z/h), (2.38b)

η(x, y, t) = Re ζn (x, y) exp −i(ωt + ν) , (2.38c)

n=1
ω
ζn (x, y) = −i ψ̃n (x, y)Ψn (Kn , 0), (2.38d)
g
g ζn (x, y)
ψ̃n (x, y) = i , (2.38e)
ω Ψn (Kn , 0)
where ζn (x, y) is sometimes referred to as a displacement potential. The scalar

potential (2.38a) may be expressed from (2.38d) and (2.38e) as

g Ψn (Kn , z/h)
Φ(x, y, z, t) = Re i ζn (x, y) exp −i(ωt + ν) . (2.39)
n=1
ω Ψn (Kn , 0)
The WMBVP may be expressed in terms of a displacement potential ζn (x, y) by


2 2
∂ ζn (x, y) ∂ ζn (x, y)  x ≥ 0;
2
+ + K ζ
n n (x, y) = 0; −B ≤ y ≤ +B; (2.40a)
∂x2 ∂y 2 
−h ≤ z ≤ 0.


∂ζn (x, y) Ψn (Kn , z/h) ω  x = 0;
= i U (y, z) B ≤ y ≤ +B; (2.40b)
∂x Ψn (Kn , 0) g 
n=1 −h ≤ z ≤ 0.

∂
lim − iKn ζn (x, y) = 0. (2.40c)
x→+∞ ∂x
∂ζn (x, y)
= 0; x ≥ 0; y = ±B; −h ≤ z ≤ 0, (2.40d)
∂y
where (2.40a) is the 2D Helmholtz equation.9,10
Because the boundary conditions are prescribed on boundaries that are constant
values of (y,z), a solution to the WMBVP (2.40) may be computed by the method
of separation of variables and is given by1
Φ(x, y, z, t)
  

 

M
Ψ1 (k, z/h) 


 
 Cm1 Υm (y/B) exp iPm1 x 
 

 
 
 

 

Ψ1 (k, 0) 
 


 

m=0 
 


 


 


 
 Ψ1 (k, z/h) 
 


 
 + Cm1 Υm (y/B) exp 
 

 g  Ψ (k, 0)
1  
m=M+1
= Re i exp −i(ωt + ν) ,

 ω 
 − Ξm1 x 
 


 
 
 


 
 
 


 

Ψn (κn , z/h) 
 


 
 + Cmn Υm (y/B) exp
 


 
 
 


 

Ψ n (κ n , 0) 


 

m=0 n=2 

  
− Qmn x
(2.41a)
where
cos µm B(y/B − 1)
Υm (µm , y/B) = ; M2m = 1 + δm0 ; (2.41b)
Mm
mπ
µm = ;
2B

Pm1 = K12 − µ2m = k 2 − µ2m ; k > µm ; m ≤ M ; (2.41c)

Ξm1 = µ2m − k 2 ; k < µm ; m > M; (2.41d)
Q2mn = µ2m − Kn2 ; m ≥ 0; n ≥ 1; (2.41e)

n ≥ 1: K1 = k > µm : Qm1 = i k 2 − µ2m = iPm ; m ≤ M; (2.41f)
n = 1: k = µm : Qm1 = 0

k < µm : Qm1 = µ2m − k 2 = Ξm1 > 0; m > M ; (2.41g)

n ≥ 2 : Kn = iκn : Qmn = µ2m + κ2n > 0, (2.41h)
where M is the maximum integer value for m in order for µm < k. Substituting
(2.41a) into (2.40b) yields the following solutions for Cmn 1 :

ω Ψ1 (Kn , 0) +1 y 0 z z z y
Cm1 = d d U y, Ψ1 Kn , Υm µm ;
g Pm1 −1 B −1 h h h B
m≤M (2.42a)
y z z
ω Ψ1 (Kn , 0) +1 0
z y
Cm1 = d d U y, Ψ1 Kn , Υm µm , ;
g Ξm1 −1 B −1 h h h B
m>M +1 (2.42b)
y z z
ω Ψn (Kn , 0) +1 0
z y
Cmn = d d U y, Ψn Kn , Υm µm , ;
g Qmn −1 B −1 h h h B
m ≥ 0, n ≥ 2. (2.42c)
The first three transverse eigenmodes are illustrated in Fig. 2.5.
2.6. Conformal Mappings
Conformal and domain mappings are applications of complex variables to solve 2D

boundary value problems. Conformal mapping is an angle preserving transformation
that will compute exact nonlinear solutions for surface gravity waves of constant
Fig. 2.5. First three transverse eigenmodes in a 2D wave channel.

form that may be treated as a steady flow following a Galilean transformation from a
fixed inertial coordinate system to a noninertial moving coordinate system. Domain
mapping is a transformation of the wavemaker geometry into a fixed computational
domain where a solution may be computed efficiently.
2.6.1. Conformal mapping1

Conformal mapping of the WMBVP provides a global solution that accurately
accounts for the singular behavior at all irregular points. The irregular points in
the physical wavemaker domain are transformed into both weak and strong singular
kernels in a Fredholm integral equation. The two irregular points on the WMBVP
boundary are located at (1) the intersection between the free-surface and the wave-
maker boundary and (2) the intersection between the horizontal bottom and the
wavemaker boundary. These two irregular points exhibit integrable weakly singular
kernels. The far-field radiation boundary exhibits a strongly singular kernel and sig-
nificantly affects the solution. The irregular frequencies3,4 are included in the global
solution by the Fredholm alternative. A theory for the planar WMBVP computes
a global solution by a conformal mapping of the physical wavemaker boundary
to a unit disk that includes the motion of an inviscid fluid near irregular points
that are illustrated in Fig. 2.6. A numerical solution to Laplace’s equation in a
transformed unit disk may be computed from a Fredholm integral equation. The
WMBVP defined by (2.5) is transformed into complex-valued analytical functions
where the complex-valued coordinates are defined as z = x + iy. The coordinates
for the semi-infinite wave channel in Fig. 2.1(a) must be transformed to complex-
valued coordinates z. The fluid velocity q(x, y, t) and dynamic pressure p(x, y, t)
may be computed from a scalar velocity potential Φ(x, y, t) according to
∂Φ(x, y, t)
q(x, y, t) = −∇Φ(x, y, t); p(x, y, t) = ρ . (2.43a,b)
∂t
The WMBVP and Type I wavemaker shape function are given by (2.5)–(2.7).
There are both Irregular (I) and Regular (R) points at the intersections between
the Smooth (S) and Critical (C) boundaries B1 and B2 in the WMBVP as illustrated
in Fig. 2.6 where these two boundary intersection points are identified as P1 and P2 .
The classification of the boundary points P1 and P2 in Fig. 2.6 depends on (1) the
boundary conditions ϕi (Pj ) and (2) the continuity of the boundaries Bm and their
derivatives where i, j, and m = 1 or 2. A conformal mapping of the semi-infinite
wave channel strip in the physical plane will yield a Fredholm integral equation,6,7
where these critical points may be transformed to singular points that are integrable
over a smooth continuous mapped boundary.
2.6.1.1. Conformal mapping to the unit disk 1

Two conformal mappings are: (i) the physical z-plane to a semi-circle in the Z-plane
shown in Fig. 2.7; and (ii) a semi-circle in the upper Z-plane to a unit disk in the
Fig. 2.6. Combinations of Irregular (I) and Regular (R) boundary points P1 and P2 between
Smooth (S) and Critical (C) boundaries B1 and B2 intersections in the WMBVP.8
Fig. 2.7. Mapping of the semi-infinite strip in the lower half x–y-plane in the physical z-plane to
the upper half X–Y -plane in the Z-plane.8
Fig. 2.8. Mapping of the upper half-plane in the Z-plane to the unit disk in the Q-plane.
Q-plane shown in Fig. 2.8. The Schwarz–Christoffel transformation
dz C1
=√ √ (2.44a)
dZ Z +1 Z −1
may be integrated to obtain
z = x + iy
h
= − Log[−Z − Z 2 − 1], (2.44b)
π
where the Log[•] denotes the principal value of Log[•] and the argument of the
Log[•] is −π ≤ arg < π. Inverting (2.44b) yields
Z = X + iY = − cosh(πz/h), (2.44c)
where
! πx " ! πy "
X = − cosh cos ; (2.44d)
h h
! πx " ! πy "
Y = − sinh sin . (2.44e)
h h
The radiation boundary in the z-plane transforms to a semi-circle in the Z-plane by

1 2πx 2πx
R2 = X 2 + Y 2 = cos + cosh , (2.44f)
2 h h
Y πx πy
tan θ = = tanh tan . (2.44g)
X h h
Details of the transformation of the WMBVP are given by Hudspeth.1
2.6.1.2. Mapping Z-plane to a unit disk

The upper-half-plane of the Z-plane may be mapped into a unit disk shown in
Fig. 2.8 by the following bilinear transformation:

i−Z
Q = ξ + iζ = exp(iθ0 ) , (2.45a)
i+Z
that may be inverted to obtain

1−Q
Z = X + iY = i , (2.45b)
1+Q
and the mapping function coordinates are
1 − X2 − Y 2
ξ= ,
X 2 + (Y + 1)2
(2.45c,d)
2X
ζ= ,
X 2 + (Y = 1)2
that may be transformed into the cylindrical coordinates for the unit disk in
Fig. 2.8 by

(X 2 + Y 2 − 1)2 − 4X 2 ζ 2X
r2 = ξ 2 +ζ 2 = ; = arctan = arctan .
(X 2 + (Y + 1)2 )2 ξ 1 − X2 − Y 2
(2.45e,f)
Details of the transformation are given by Hudspeth.1 A numerical solution to
the transformed WMBVP may be computed from the following Fredholm integral
equation1 :
+π
2π ∂G(r, r̂, , )
ˆ ∂ Φ̂(r̂, )
ˆ
π Φ̂(r, ) = − −π Φ̂(r̂, )ˆ
∂r̂
+ G(r, r̂, , )
ˆ
∂r̂
r̂d,
ˆ
(2.46a)
where
ˆ = − ln[ρ(r, r̂, , )];

G(r, r̂, , ) ˆ ρ2 (r, r̂, , )
ˆ = r2 − 2rr̂ cos(
ˆ − ) + r̂2 .
(2.46b,c)
Fig. 2.9. Nodal points on the unit disk in the Q-plane and the corresponding nodal points on the
wavemaker in the physical z-plane.8
Numerical solutions to (2.46a) may be computed by discretizing the unit disk

boundary as shown in Fig. 2.9. The numerical details regarding the evaluation
(2.46a) at the two weakly singular irregular points at B and D in the physical
z-plane in Fig. 2.7 and the strongly singular point at ±π that is the vertical
radiation boundary A–E at +∞ in the physical z-plane in Fig. 2.7 are tedious.8
Global numerical solutions may be computed for both the linear and the nonlinear
WMBVPs.
2.6.1.3. Conformal mapping to the unit disk 2

The wavemaker geometry shown in Fig. 2.10 is mapped to the unit disk by two
transformations. The WMBVP is given by (2.5) and the WM shape function is
χ(y/h) = [α(y/h) + β][U (y/h + 1 − b0 /h) − U (y/h + a0 /h)]. (2.47)
In order to transform the wavemaker geometry to a Jacobian elliptic function,

it must be rotated and translated as shown in Fig. 2.11. The 90◦ rotation to the
z -plane is given by
z = x + iy = iz = −y + ix. (2.48a)
Fig. 2.10. WMBVP11 with the six critical boundary points at a–a0 –b–b0 –c–d.
Fig. 2.11. Rotation and translation of the physical wavemaker rectangular strip in the z-plane to
the w-plane.11
The horizontal shift to the left in the z -plane is given by
z = x + iy = w − h/2 = −y − h/2 + ix. (2.48b)
In order to map the WM geometry in the z-plane to the semi-circle in the Z-plane
shown in Fig. 2.12 as a Jacobian elliptic function, the rotated and translated strip
in the z -plane must have the dimensions of −K ≤ ξ ≤ +K and 0 ≤ ζ ≤ K , where
K = h/2 and K = 3h = 6K. This requires a coordinate amplification given by
2K
w= (x + iy )
h

2K h
= −y − + ix . (2.48c)
h 2
Fig. 2.12. Mapping of the wavemaker semi-circle in the Z-plane to the unit disk in the Q-plane.11
The Schwarz–Christoffel transformation from the w-plane to the Z-plane is
ĈkdZ
dw = . (2.48d)
(a − z)(b − Z)(c − Z)(d − Z)
The following change of variables:
Z = aẐ; dZ = adẐ : κ = a/c; Ĉ = c,
modifies (2.48d) to the following Jacobian elliptic function:

Z
dẐ
w= 1 = sn−1 [Z, κ], (2.48e)
0 [(1 − Ẑ 2 )(1 − κ2 Ẑ 2 )] 2
where sn[Z, κ] = the Jacobian elliptic function of modulus κ or sine amplitude

function.9 Define
k̂ = sn−1 [1, κ], (2.48f)
and the mapping of the rectangle {x1 , x2 ; y1 , y2 } = {0, 3h : 0, h} is given by
Z = X + iY
 # $ % & ! " 
 sn − 2K h y + h2 , κ dn 2Kx h , k̂

! "
 1 − dn2 #− 2K $y + h % , κ& sn2 2Kx , k̂ 
=
h 2 h
 # $ % & # $ % & ! " ! "
 cn − 2Kh y + h
2 , κ dn − 2K
h y + h
2 , κ , sn 2Kx
h , k̂ cn 2Kx
h k̂ 
+i # $ % & ! " ,
 1 − dn2 − 2K y + h2 , κ sn2 2Kx 
h h , k̂
(2.48g)
where sn[•, •] in the copolar half-period trio in (2.48g) is defined in (2.48e), and
cn[•, •] and dn[•, •] are defined by cn 2 [•, •] = 1−sn 2 [•, •], dn 2 [•, •] = 1−κ2 sn2 [•, •].
The mapping from the semi-circle in the Z-plane to the unit disk in the Q-plane
Fig. 2.13. Transformed boundary conditions mapped to arcs on the perimeter of the unit disk.11
is shown in Fig. 2.12, and the mapping to the unit disk in the Q-plane is shown in
Fig. 2.13. The mapping of the Z-plane to the Q-plane is given by
i − Z − α̂(i + Z) (1 − α̂) − Z 2 (1 + α̂) + 2iZ(1 − α̂)2

Q= = , (2.49a)
i + Z − α̂(i − Z) (1 − α̂2 ) + Z 2 (1 + α̂)2
where −1 < α̂ < +1. Changing variables to circular cylindrical coordinates by
(1 − α̂2 ) − 2Y (1 − α̂2 ) + (X 2 + Y 2 )(1 + α̂)2

R2 (X, Y ) = , (2.49b)
(1 − α̂)2 − 2Y (1 − α̂2 ) + (X 2 + Y 2 )(1 + α̂2 )

2X(1 − α̂2 )
θ(X, Y ) = arctan , (2.49c)
(1 − α̂)2 − (X 2 + Y 2 )(1 + α̂)2
the unit disk may be transformed into functions of the copolar trio of Jacobian
elliptic functions. The transformed WMBVP in circular cylindrical coordinates
is given by Hudspeth.1 A general solution to the transformed WMBVP may be
written as10
N
n ân
ϕ(R, θ) = R cos nθ + b̂n sin nθ , (2.50)
n=0
1 + δn0
where δij is the Kronecker delta function. Substituting (2.50) into the generic
boundary conditions on each of the six arcs on the perimeter of the unit disk illus-
trated in Fig. 2.13, multiplying each of these six boundary conditions by a member
of the set of the orthogonal series in (2.50), integrating over the interval of orthogo-
nality −π ≤ θ ≤ +π yields the following matrix equation for each of the coefficients
ân and b̂n
AB = H. (2.51)
Fig. 2.14. Physical fluid domain.12
2.7. Domain Mapping
Domain mapping of the WMBVP12 follows the theory by Joseph.13 The physical
fluid domain shown in Fig. 2.14 for the fully nonlinear WMBVP is mapped to a
fixed computational fluid domain, and the discretized coupled free-surface boundary
conditions are computed by an implicit Crank–Nicholson (C–N) method.14,15 At
each iteration of the C–N method, the potential field is computed by the conjugate
gradient method.15 The wavemaker motion Ξ(y/h, t) is assumed to be periodic with
period T = 2π/ω, and the WMBVP with the surface tension T̂ is given by

2 0 ≤ y ≤ Γ(x, t),
∇ Φ(x, y, t) = ∆Φ(x, y, t) = 0; (2.52a)
Ξ(y/h, t) ≤ x ≤ L.
T̂ ∂ 2 Γ(x, t)
∂Φ(x, y, t) 1 ρ ∂x2
+ |∇Φ(x, y, t)|2 −
2 3/2
+ gΓ(x, t) = 0. (2.52b)
∂t 2
∂Γ(x, t)
1+
∂x
∂Φ(x, y, t) ∂Γ(x, t) ∂Φ(x, y, t) ∂Γ(x, t)

− + = 0;
∂y ∂x ∂x ∂t
Ξ(Γ(x, t), t) ≤ x ≤ L, y = Γ(x, t). (2.52c)
∂Φ(x, y, t)
= 0; Ξ(Γ(x, t), t) ≤ x ≤ L, y = 0. (2.52d)
∂y
∂Φ(x, y, t)
= 0; x = L, 0 ≤ y ≤ Γ(L, t). (2.52e)
∂x

∂Φ(x, y, t) ∂Ξ(y/ho , t) ∂Ξ(y/ho , t) ∂Φ(x, y, t) x = Ξ(y/ho , t),
=− + ; (2.52f)
∂x ∂t ∂y ∂y 0 ≤ y ≤ Γ(0, t).
The initial conditions for t = 0 are
Γ(x, 0) = H(x); (2.52g)

∂Γ(x, t) = 0; Ξ(x, 0) ≤ x ≤ L. (2.52h)
Φ(x, Γ(x, 0), 0) = 0; (2.52i)
The physical fluid domain shown in Fig. 2.14 may be mapped into a dimensionless
fixed rectangle of dimensions 0 ≤ ξ ≤ 1 by 0 ≤ ζ ≤ 1 by the transforms
x y Γ(x, t)
ξ= ; ζ= ; τ = ωt; γ(ξ, τ ) = , (2.53a–d)
L Γ(x, t) h
and dimensionless variables by
∇Φ(x, y, t) P (x, y, t)
q(ξ, ζ, τ ) = − ; p(ξ, ζ, τ ) = , (2.53e,f)
Aω ρA2 ω 2
Φ(x, y, t) Ξ(y/ho , t) T̃
ϕ(ξ, ζ, τ ) = − ; w(ζ, τ ) = ; T̂ = . (2.53g–i)
Ahω S ρALhω 2
Because ζ is a function of both x and y in (2.53b), transforming partial derivatives
with respect to x must be done with some care.12 Details of these lengthy transfor-
mations and the transformed WMBVP in the fixed mapped domain are given by
Hudspeth.1
References
1. R. T. Hudspeth, Waves and Wave Forces on Coastal and Ocean Structures (World
Scientific, Singapore, 2006).
2. R. T. Hudspeth, J. M. Grassa, J. R. Medina and J. Lozano, J. Hydraulic Res. 387
(1994).
3. F. John, Commun. Pure Appl. Math. 13 (1949).
4. F. John, Commun. Pure Appl. Math. 45 (1950).
5. T. H. Havelock, Phil. Mag. 569 (1929).
6. P. R. Garabedian, Partial Differential Equations (Wiley, Inc., New York, 1964).
7. P. M. Morse and H. Feshbach, Methods of Theoretical Physics (McGraw-Hill Book
Company, New York, 1953).
8. Y. Tanaka, Irregular points in wavemaker boundary value problem, PhD thesis,
Oregon State University (1988).
9. G. F. Carrier, M. Krook and C. E. Pearson, Functions of a Complex Variable, Theory
and Technique (McGraw-Hill Book Co. Inc., New York, 1966).
10. R. B. Guenther and J. Lee, Partial Differential Equations of Mathematical Physics
and Integral Equations (Dover Publications, Inc., New York, 1996).
11. P. J. Averbeck, The boundary value problem for the rectangular wavemaker,
MS thesis, Oregon State University (1993).
12. S. J. DeSilva, R. B. Guenther and R. T. Hudspeth, Appl. Ocean Res. 18, 293 (1996).
13. D. D. Joseph, Arch. Rational Mech. Anal. 51, 295 (1973).

14. B. Carnahan, H. A. Luther and J. O. Wilkes, Applied Numerical Methods (John Wiley
and Sons, New York, 1965).
15. R. Glowinski, Numerical Methods for Nonlinear Variational Problems (Springer-
Verlag, 1984).

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The fundamental solutions to the wavemaker boundary value problem (WMBVP)

HANDBOOK OF COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING

26 R. T. Hudspeth and R. B. Guenther

2.2. Planar Wavemaker in a 2D Channel

q(x, z, t) = u(x, z, t)ex + w(x, z, t)ez = −∇2 Φ(x, z, t), (2.2a)

where the 2D gradient operator in (2.2a) is given by

Fig. 2.1(a). Definition sketch for a Type I planar wavemaker.

Fig. 2.1(b). Definition sketch for a Type II planar wavemaker.

28 R. T. Hudspeth and R. B. Guenther

∇22 Φ = 0; x ≥ ξ(z, t), −h ≤ z ≤ η(x, t), (2.3a)

with the following boundary conditions:

Combined Kinematic and Dynamic Free Surface Boundary Condition (CKDFSBC):

Kinematic Radiation Boundary Condition (KRBC):

A velocity potential ϕ(x, z) may be deﬁned by the real part of

Φ(x, z, t) = Re{φ(x, z) exp −i(ωt + ν)}, (2.4)

30 R. T. Hudspeth and R. B. Guenther

that may be solved simultaneously for the dimensionless coeﬃcients α, β to obtain

α = (1 − Sb /S); β = ∆/h + α(1 − d/h − ∆b /h − ∆/h). (2.7d,e)

S = S̄ + Ŝ; Sb = S̄; ∆=h−b−d

into the following boundary conditions2 in (2.7b) and (2.7c):

that may be solved simultaneously for the constant coeﬃcients α, β to obtain

2.2.1. Eigenfunction solution to the WMBVP

ϕ(x, z) = X(x) • Z(z). (2.9)

The eigenseries solution may be written compactly as1,3,4

Φ(x, z, t; Kn ) = Cn cosh Kn (z + h) exp +i(Kn x − ωt + ν), (2.10a)

where Kn = k for n = 1 and Kn = +iκn for n ≥ 2 provided that

ko h − kh tanh kh = ko h + κn h tan κn h = 0; n > 2. (2.10b)

The eigenseries (2.10a) may be separated into a propagating Φp (x, z, t; k) and

Φ(x, z, t; Kn ) = Φp (x, z, t; k) + Φe (x, z, t; κn )

= C1 cosh k(z + h) + Cn cos κn (z + h) exp −[κn x + i(ωt + ν)].

Φ(x, z, t; Kn ) = Cn Ψn (Kn , z/h) exp i(Kn x − ωt − ν), (2.12)

where the orthonormal eigenfunction Ψn (•,•) is dimensionless.

2.2.2. Evaluation of Cn by WM vertical displacement χ(z/h)

32 R. T. Hudspeth and R. B. Guenther

2.2.3. Decay distance of evanescent eigenmodes n ≥ 2

2.2.4. Transfer function for wave amplitude

where the temporal averaging operator is deﬁned by

where the group velocity CG is given by1

2.2.5. Hydrodynamic pressure loads (added mass

n = r × n = (z + h − d)nx ey = ny ey . (2.17c)

F1 (t) = Re iρωBh Cn Ψn (Kn , z/h)d(z/h) exp −i(ωt + ν)

= −F1 cos(ωt + ν − α1 ), (2.18a)

F1 (t) = −Re{[λ11 (Sω) + µ11 (−iSω 2 )] exp −i(ωt + ν)}

34 R. T. Hudspeth and R. B. Guenther

= −M5 cos(ωt + ν − α5 ), (2.20a)

2.3. Circular Wavemaker

q(r, θ, z, t) = −∇Φ(r, θ, z, t), (2.22a)

where the 3D gradient operator ∇(•) in polar coordinates is

P (r, θ, z, t) = p(r, θ, z, t) + pS (z)

The scalar velocity potential Φ(r, θ, z, t) must be a solution to the continuity

with the following boundary conditions:

Combined Kinematic and Dynamic Free Surface Boundary Condition (CKDFSBC):

Kinematic WaveMaker Boundary Condition (KWMBC):

Two types of circular cylindrical wavemaker displacements ξ(θ, z, t) may be ana-

36 R. T. Hudspeth and R. B. Guenther

ˆ = − ln[ρ(r, r̂, , )];