JOURNAL OF SEDIMENTARYr PETROLOClV, VOL. 49, NO. 3, P.

0711-0726
FIGS. 1 t4, SEPTEMBER, 1979
Copyright © 1979. The Society of Economic Paleontologists and Mineralogists
0022-.4472/ 79 / 0049-0711 / $03.00

DEPOSITIONAL PROCESSES, SEDIMENTARY STRUCTURES,

AND PREDICTED VERTICAL SEQUENCES IN BARRED NEARSHORE SYSTEMS,
SOUTHERN OREGON COAST l

RALPH E. HUNTER, H. EDWARD CLIFTON, ANDR. LAWRENCE PHILLIPS

U.S. GeologicalSurvey, Menlo Park, California 94025

ABStRACt: Many of the straighter, less rocky parts of the southern Oregon coast are characterized
by nearshore bars that extend obliquely out from shore and migrate alongshore. A typical oblique
bar is attached to the foreshore at its upcurrent end, nearly parallel to shore through most of its
length, and bowed seaward into a tip-channel-mouth bar at its downcurrent end. The main part of
an obhque bar is separated from the foreshore by a longshore trough that curves seaward into a
rip channel. The net wave-induced currents flow obliquely shoreward over the bar, parallel to shore
through the longshore trough, and seaward through the tip channel and over the tip-channel-mouth
bar. Medium-scale crossbedding formed by the migration of megaripples in the direction of net water
flow is the dominant internal structure in most of the nearshore. Small-scale crossbedding formed
by wave-tipple migration is dominant in the inner offshore, and planar bedding is dominant on the
foreshore.
Most or all of the bar deposits would be destroyed if the coast prograded slowly but continuously.
The vertical sequence produced during progradation should be characterized, in ascending order, by
inner offshore deposits, possibly deposits of the lower seaward slope of the bar, a subhotizontal
erosion surface corresponding to the deepest part of the rip channel, rip channel deposits, longshore
trough deposits, deposits of the foreshore-trough transition, and foreshore deposits.
Subhotizontal erosion surfaces probably occur in deposits formed by the slow progradation of most
kinds of barred nearshore systems, but they should not occur in deposits formed by the progradation
of a non-barred nearshore system. The nature of the deposits produced by the progradation of a
barred nearshore system should vary with orientation of the bars relative to the shoreline, number
of bars, wave energy, and available grain sizes.

INTRODUCTION This study sought to determine the dis-

The sediment-mantled portion of the
southern Oregon nearshore has been divided
for purposes of study into more or less
distinct depositional systems (Clifton, Hun-
ter, and Phillips, 1971a, 1972). A nearshore
depositional system is here considered to be
bounded on the landward side by a beach
system and on the seaward by an offshore
system. Nearshore systems include those
associated with stream and estuary mouths
(Clifton, Phillips, and Hunter, 1973) and
those along exposed sandy coasts. Among
the latter, the non-barred nearshore system
has been described previously (Clifton, Hun-
ter, and Phillips, 1971b), and a nearshore
system having bars and troughs is described
in this paper.
~Manuscript received December 4, 1978; revised May
16, 1979.
tribution of sedimentary structures in the
barred nearshore system and to relate these
structures to hydrodynamic processes. Most
previous studies on nearshore bars and
troughs have concerned their morphology
and dynamics; among the few that have dealt
with their sedimentary structures are those
by Reineck (1963), Davis et al. (1972), and
Davidson-Arnott and Greenwood (1976).
Our observations of subtidal structures and
hydrodynamic processes were made while
diving with scuba. Although our observations
of water motion were mostly qualitative, they
are reported here because of the scarcity
of published observations from the barred
high-energy nearshore environment. We
have interpreted the hydrodynamic processes
partly from the sedimentary structures; this
approach was found to be a useful substitute
for direct measurements of the water motion
in this inhospitable environment.
A further aim of this study was to construct
712 R A L P H E. H U N T E R , H. E D W A R D C L I F T O N , A N D R. LA W R E N C E P H I L L I P S

conceptual models of the nearshore deposits several summers. The summer waves are
that might be generated during progradation dominantly of swell type, approaching the
of the shoreline. Such models can be used coast from the northwest and averaging about
to interpret the depositional environments of 10 seconds in period and 1.5 m in breaker
ancient sandstones from their vertical se- height. The diurnal tidal range is about 2.1
quences of texture and sedimentary struc- m.
tures. Bars are best developed along long,
straight, sandy stretches of the coast; most
OBLIQUE BAR--RIP CHANNEL SYSTEMS IN of these sections face to the west-northwest
SOUTHERN OREGON (Fig. 1). They are best developed between
Setting Blacklock Point and Bandon, are moderately
well developed around the mouths of the
The study was conducted on barred parts Rogue River and Pistol River, and are poorly
of the southern Oregon coast (Fig. 1) during
developed or absent around the mouths of
Euchre Creek and Elk River.
The causes of the differences in bar devel-
opment along the southern Oregon coast have
not been determined. Theoretical, experi-
45 °
mental, and field studies of other workers
(summarized by Komar, 1976, p. 289-294)
suggest that the development of a barred
nearshore profile is favored by high values
Blocklock P
of the wave steepness (ratio of wave height
OREGON to wave length) and by high values of the
3ape Blanco~
ratio of wave height to grain size.
Or ford
The Heads
Type of Bars
The bars along the southern Oregon coast
range in orientation relative to the shoreline
from oblique to longshore; the most common
type is nearly parallel to shore but attached
to shore at one end and terminated by a
rip channel at the other end. Although these
bars are similar to discontinuous longshore
bars (Davis and Fox, 1972) and to asymmetric
Beach crescentic bars (Sonu, 1973), we classify
them as oblique because of their attachment
to shore at one end. Oblique bars have been
described from other areas by Evans (1939),
Guilcber, Godard, and Visseaux (1952),
Reineck (1963), Miller and Zeigler (1964), and
Sonu, McCloy, and McArthur (1967).
Linear topographic highs along a beach
are classified by King (1972) as submarine
bars, if they are never exposed, or as ridges,
if they are exposed at low water. This classi-
o I0 20 KM
I J I fication is awkward for the southern Oregon
42 c
obhque bars, which are intermittently
124o45 ' 124 ° exposed a~ their attached ends but submerged
throughout the tidal cycle at their free ends.
FtG. l.--lndex map of southern Oregon Coast. The Because they are formed largely by wave
heavy lines are long sandy beaches; thin lines are rocky
coast and short stretches of sandy beach. Areas of
processes at higher tide levels and are only
detailed study of well-developed nearshore bars are slightly modified by swash at lower tide
marked by stars. levels, we classify them as bars.
 BA RRED NEA RSHORE S Y S T E M S 713

The channels or troughs that separate

nearshore bars from the beach or from one WNW
4r BERM
ESE
/
another are as varied in morphology as the eL CREST

bars and are j u s t as important in defining

the depositional system. The barred near- 2 L~ ~ ML LW
0 60 12C I~0 M
shore system of the kind occurring most
B.
commonly along the southern Oregon coast
is here termed an oblique bar-rip channel EXPLANAWON
system to distinguish it from an oblique
~_, vEGETATED SAND DUNES
bar-oblique trough system. DRY SAND, BERM CREST SHOWN
B~ DASHES L~NE

Topographic Features L~ WET SAND AND SWASH ZONE

,~ ~ SURF ZONE
The beach and offshore systems adjoining
A. ~ UNBROKEN WAVES AND
the oblique bar-rip channel system are like QUIET ~ATER

those along unbarred coasts except for broad

undulations of contour lines. The nearshore,
however, is topographically complex (Figs.
2, 3). The morphological parts of the oblique
bar-rip channel system are the bar, which
is almost parallel to shore except near its
point of attachment to shore; a longshore
trough b e t w e e n the bar and the beach; a
seaward-trending rip channel at the downdrift
FIG. 2.--Morphology of an oblique bar-rip channel
system during summer conditions, Fourmile Creek area.
A) Map drawn from aerial photograph taken at a spring
low tide. B) Profile across a typical bar midway along
its length.
end o f the longshore channel; and a crescen-
tic rip-channel-mouth bar (Fig. 3). W e are
not certain that all the rip channels have bars

if~---- 4.5-.. I
I- ~,p-cHANNEL M O U ~ ~ ~ ~

")) _ . K "5N ~~" ". ~~A . ~~.~. ~ .~. ~ _~,L O NGG"s~H^ n

, ~~ ~ " ~ - ~ . .~.5~ 4 \ \

Oscillatory currents generated by waves. Contours in meters below berm crest.

/ Length of arrow indicales relative velocity
Z-meter contour is approximately mean
Oscillatory wave swash lower low water
Unidirectional current. Size of arrow indi-
cates relative velocity 0 40 80 120M
I I I I
Inconsistent unidirectional currents

Fro. 3.--Topography and hydrodynamic processes of a typical oblique bar-rip channel system. The area mapped
is near the mouth of Pistol River.
714 RA LPH E. HUNTER, H. ED WARD CLIFTON, A ND R. L A W R E N C E PHILLIPS
at their mouths. Some of the oblique bars
are straight rather than hooked at their points
of attachment and are separated from one
another by oblique troughs that are similarly
straight and that cannot be differentiated into
longshore and tip-channel segments.
The longshore spacing of well-developed
oblique bars ranges from 90 to 760 m and
averages about 300 m. The bar crest is located
from 90 to 150 m seaward of the landward
edge of the foreshore. The local refief from
a point on the bar crest to the trough axis
is typically 0.3 to 1.2 m. At the point of
attachment to shore, the bar crest is roughly
at the level of mean lower low water. The
deepest point in the rip channel, just
shoreward of the rip-channel-mouth bar, is
from 1 to 3 m below mean lower low water.
The direction and rate of bar migration
were determined from changes in the loca-
tions of points where topographic contour
lines intersected the bar axis. The bars mi-
grate slowly alongshore, as has been shown
for rhythmic shorehne features elsewhere by
Sonu (1969), Dolan (1971), King (1972, p.
345) and others. Weekly observations of one
bar and adjacent rip channels between
Blacklock Point and Bandon showed that the
system moved about 150 m southward during
a 30-day period while maintaining its general
form. Two bars near the mouth of Pistol
River moved about 300 m during another
30-day interval. Fox and Davis (1976, 1978)
recorded similar rates of alongshore bar
migration on the central Oregon coast but
also recorded systematic landward bar
migration that we did not observe.
In sandy stretches of the southern Oregon
coast, where barred nearshore systems are
best developed, the beach is generally wide
and bounded on its landward side by a
foredune ridge. On such stretches of coast,
and especially on the coastal segment from
Blacklock Point to Bandon, the beach typi-
cally has a berm ridge, the crest of which
separates the foreshore from the backshore,
and a backshore runnel. The berm ridge and
backshore runnel tend to be nearly straight
and parallel to the general shoreline, and the
runnel breaks through the berm ridge at
irregularly spaced points that bear no appar-
ent relation to the positions of rip channels.
The berm crest is built up to the height of
wave swash at the higher tide levels, about
3 m above mean lower low water, and the
runnel is 0.3 to 1 m lower. Where the oblique
bars are straight and separated from one
another by straight oblique troughs, the berm
ridges and runnels are also straight and
oblique to shore and continue offshore
into oblique bars and troughs.
The southern Oregon beaches and near-
shore are considerably altered during winter,
the changes being much like those elsewhere
on the Pacific coast (Shepard, 1950b; Fox
and Davis, 1976, 1978). The beaches are
eroded, but not deeply enough to expose
bedrock on the sandy stretches of coast, and
the summer berm ridge is replaced by a gently
dipping foreshore that extends back to the
foredune ridge. Because of the greater size
or steepness of winter waves, bars form along
some sections of the coast where they are
absent during summer. Sections that are
barred during summer remain barred during
winter, but the bars occur in deeper water,
leaving the low-tide shoreline relatively
straight. Our limited winter observations
suggest that most of the winter bars lack
the regularity of form that characterizes the
summer bars. However, some of the winter
bars extend obliquely offshore to the north
as a result of waves from the southwest,
which are common during winter. Fox and
Davis (1978) report that bars form on the
foreshore between major winter storms on
the central Oregon coast.
On some parts of the Oregon and Wash-
ington coasts, one or two bars occur seaward
of the bar system investigated here (Isaacs,
1947). These outer bars may be the product
of winter wave conditions and are certainly
more active during winter than during sum-
mer, as attested by Bascom's (1964, p. 167-
183) graphic descriptions of surveying in
winter surf.
H y d r o d y n a m i c Processes
Waves are responsible for most of the
water movement in the obfique bar-rip cur-
rent system, as in the non-barred nearshore
described previously (Clifton et al., 1971b).
The two systems differ, however, in the
importance of wave-generated, relatively
persistent, unidirectional currents super-
imposed on the wave orbital motion. In the
non-barred nearshore, net currents were
 BA R R E D NEA R S H O R E S Y S T E M S
weak. Experiments with very slightly nega-
tively buoyant drifters showed that essential-
ly no net movement of water in a direction
normal to shore takes place in a near-bottom
water layer about 0.3 m thick. Water move-
ment during the rapid but short-lived land-
ward surge is almost exactly balanced, on
the average, by return flow during the slower
but more prolonged seaward surge. In the
barred nearshore system described here, on
the other hand, a wave-driven net movement
of water is well developed at intermediate
and high tide levels.
Wave-driven circulation systems involving
net onshore flow over a broad front, long-
shore currents landward of the breaking
waves, and localized rip currents are well
known (Komar, 1976, p. 168-171). Depending
on whether the waves approach shore nor-
mally or obliquely, the circulation system
may be either symmetric, the tip current
being fed from two sides by opposing long-
shore currents of equal strength, or asymmet-
ric, one of the longshore feeder currents
being stronger and occupying a longer
stretch of coastline than the other. In the
oblique bar-rip channel system of southern
Oregon, the circulation is extremely
asymmetric, the longshore water movement
being almost entirely in one direction (Fig.
3).
In the zone of wave buildup seaward of
the bar crest, the net onshore flow makes
the landward orbital velocities much stronger
than the seaward. Both the landward and
seaward orbital velocities, but especially the
landward, increase as the waves approach
the bar crest, where at high tide the waves
normally break. The net flow of water over
the bar crest feeds a longshore current in
the trough. We have noted longshore surface
currents of as much as 1.0 m / s , in agreement
with measurements by Fox and Davis (1976)
along the central Oregon coast. Waves that
have broken while crossing the bar reform
in the deeper water of the longshore trough,
but their heights are reduced. The longshore
current in the trough is usually stronger than
the wave surge and is at nearly a right angle
to it. Along the landward edge of the long-
shore trough, the importance of wave surge
again increases as the waves approach the
beach.
Where the longshore current impinges on
715
the next bar downcurrent, it is deflected
seaward into the rip channel. In the rip
channel, the seaward current is usually
stronger than the landward wave surge. Rip-
current velocities ranging from 0.4 to 0.9
m / s , cited as typical by Cook (1970), agree
with our few measurements. Wave surge
again becomes important farther seaward as
the rip current spreads over the rip-channel-
mouth bar and weakens. Waves may or may
not break over the rip-channel-mouth bar,
depending on the water depth and wave
height.
We have occasionally observed obliquely
seaward net flow along the bottom of the
longshore channel and on the landward slope
of the bar. Offshore near-bottom flow or
sediment transport in the area landward of
the bar crest or landward of the breakers
in non-barred nearshores has been noted or
hypothesized as a factor in bar origin by
several workers (Bagnold, 1947; Keulegan,
1948; Inman and Quinn, 1952; Volbrecht,
1957; Russell and Osorio, 1958; Ingle, 1966,
p. 70; Dyhr-Nielsen and Sorenson, 1970;
King, 1972, p. 316). The offshore bottom
flow may be a manifestation of a helical
circulation system having a horizontal,
shore-parallel axis at mid-depth above the
longshore trough.
The physical processes at low tide, when
the bar is exposed or sfightly awash, differ
considerably from those at high tide. A swash
zone develops on the seaward side of the
bar, and the water in the longshore trough
becomes relatively calm. Waves enter the
rip channel and, although they are weakened
by breaking over the rip-channel-mouth bar
and by diffraction and refraction within the
channel, are sometimes high enough to break
on the section of beach facing the rip channel.
S t r u c t u r a l Facies
The oblique bar-tip channel system can
be divided into a number of facies each
characterized by a distinctive set of bedforms
and internal structures. These facies are here
named the inner offshore facies, bar facies,
longshore trough facies, rip-channel facies,
inner longshore trough facies, and inner
planar facies (Fig. 4). We identified the
internal structures by trenching at spring low
tides, by box-coring m water-saturated or
716 RALPH E. H U N T E R , H. EDWARD CLIFTON, AND R. L A W R E N C E PHILLIPS

X s e a w a r d - s l o p i n g part o f the bar facies is

~ ~- ~. , ~ _ _ _~_ % :----_____
. ~ . ~ _ : - - - ~ - - - - r - - L - - - -:~ " ~ lunate m e g a r i p p l e s f a c i n g tn the d i r e c t i o n o f
~ _ _ z ~ v ~ , , , ~ ~ ~,--:~,- ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ _~_~- w a v e p r o p a g a t i o n , and the d o m i n a n t internal
~ ~ . , ~ ~<~. . ... . ~- . .t . . - 7~y - - ~ - . ~ ~ ~ structure is medium-scale, obliquely
~ 5:~, ,,~ ~ - ~ ~ ~- ~ :, c~ shoreward-inclined trough crossbedding.
~, ~ • ' , ~ ~~ ~ ~ ~".~ T h e s e s t r u c t u r e s are identical to t h o s e o c c u r -
":-L_~ ~ " # : \ 5 b ~ 4 _ ~ ~ " ~ - - - - < z " - ~.X ring in the n o n - b a r r e d n e a r s h o r e o f O r e g o n
~" ...... , \ ~ - ' ~ ~ - ' - - : ~ - ~ ~ " - \ - " ' (Clifton et al., 197 lb) and are similar to those
~ , ~ , ....~ _ ' ........ ~ " ~ . . .:. . . ~ ~ " ~ " r e p o r t e d on o t h e r bars ( R e i n e c k , 1963;
~_--o--~------.~_~_-~--------j__~o-~ Z e n k o v i t c h , 1967, p. 122; D a v i d s o n - A r n o t t
C~ ..... 0~.... and G r e e n w o o d , 1976).
~~ inner ,ongsl~ore troug~ Contours ,* reelers becw berm ores1.
T h e s e a w a r d slope o f the bar b e c o m e s
~.~. ~ Lo'~sho~e trough 3 ,r,e!er ~Ort,2dr i5 c32pr3×l~no~ety
F~ ....
~ ~1~ ct~crme, "rTeor :o,~er tow ~,oter f u n c t i o n a l l y e q u i v a l e n t to a n o n - b a r r e d near-
s h o r e w h e n the bar c r e s t is e x p o s e d at low
[ ~ I-me~ o~ffsho,e tide, and at this time it c o m m o n l y d e v e l o p s
FtG. 4.--Distribution of structural facies in a typical the typical z o n a t i o n o f the n o n - b a r r e d near-
oblique bar-rip channel system. The line A-A' is the shore: i n n e r p l a n a r f a c i e s in the s w a s h z o n e ,
line of the cross section shown in Figure 1O. inner rough facies immediately below water
level, and o u t e r planar f a c i e s in the s u r f z o n e
(Cfifton and others, 1971b). H o w e v e r , the
s u b m e r g e d sand, and by p i p e - c o r i n g to depths planar lamination and seaward-dipping
of a meter. c r o s s b e d d i n g f o r m e d in t h e s e z o n e s at low
Inner Offshore Facies.--The inner o f f s h o r e tide are thin, superficial layers that are un-
facies b e y o n d the b a r r e d and n o n - b a r r e d derlain by l a n d w a r d - d i p p i n g c r o s s b e d d i n g .
n e a r s h o r e s y s t e m s are essentially the same. T h e bar crest at high tide is s o m e t i m e s
T h e d o m i n a n t b e d f o r m s are a s y m m e t r i c , d e v o i d o f b e d f o r m s and s o m e t i m e s c o v e r e d
small-scale, short-crested sand ripples by lunate m e g a f i p p l e s similar to those on
aligned n o r m a l to w a v e surge, and the domi- the s e a w a r d slope o f the bar. M o s t o f our
nant internal structure is small-scale, oblique- d i v i n g o b s e r v a t i o n s on relatively small bars
ly s h o r e w a r d - i n c l i n e d ripple c r o s s l a m i n a - at or n e a r high tide h a v e i n d i c a t e d a plane
tion (Clifton et al., 1971b). W e h a v e no bed, w h e r e a s box c o r e s t a k e n at low tide
i n f o r m a t i o n on s t r u c t u r e s o c c u r r i n g s e a w a r d o n the large bars b e t w e e n B l a c k l o c k Point
o f the inner bar o f a multiply b a r r e d near- a n d B a n d o n indicate that m e d i u m - s c a l e
shore s y s t e m . c r o s s b e d d i n g is the d o m i n a n t structure (Fig.
Bar Facies.--The o u t e r edge o f the bar facies 5). W e h a v e not d i v e d on the large bars at
is d e f i n e d for c o n v e n i e n c e as the o u t e r limit high tide b e c a u s e o f the strong c u r r e n t s and
o f m e g a r i p p l e s u n d e r n o r m a l w a v e condi- are not sure h o w to r e c o n c i l e the c o r e data
tions. The d o m i n a n t b e d f o r m in the outer, a n d diving o b s e r v a t i o n s . At i n t e r m e d i a t e tide

NNW SSE

- -_--2-- ' .. -~ -----'-z .......... --~?-z..a~-L---r=~-5~ - __

"" --__ " -_ "--Z . . . . - - - -- "-.-'--_'--L\-'---\:: " -"

0 I0 CM
I I

Ft¢. 5.--Cross section showing internal structures near bar crest. Fourmile Creek area. Section is normal
to bar trend; land to right. Rounded objects are pebbles. Crossbedding was formed by migration of megaripples.
 BA R R E D NEA R S H O R E S Y S T E M S
FiG. 6.--Obliquely onshore-facing megaripples
exposed on bar crest at low tide. Fourmile Creek area.
Land to right. The megaripples were partly planed off
during falling tide.
levels, when a bar is covered b y w a t e r 0.3
to 0.6 m deep and the waves are breaking
some distance seaward of the crest, lunate
megatipples can sometimes be found beneath
surf washing over the crest. Megaripples on
the bar crest are usually planed off during
the falling tide, but occasionally they are
preserved in a modified form at low tide
(Fig. 6).
The dip directions of crossbeds were mea-
sured on the exposed parts of several bars
at spring lower low tides. The inferred current
patterns were generally similar to those found
by Reineck (1963) but differed somewhat
from day to day (Fig. 7). On one of six
sampling days, the dip directions were bimo-
dal landward and seaward; the seaward mode
I DAY 5 DAYS 2 DAYS
OPPOSED OBLIQUELY LONGSHORE
LANDWARD LANDWARD PATTERN
AND SEAWARD PATTERN
PAT TE R N
FiG. 7.--Distribution of dip directions of crossbeds in bar deposits, Fourmile Creek area. Three different
types of pattern were seen on the six days on which measurements were made.
717
probably represents bedforms of the inner
rough zone produced during the falling tide.
On three days, most of the dip directions
were obliquely shoreward. On the other two
days, the dip directions showed a pronounced
longshore tendency.
The landward face of the bar at high tide
is not as steep as the angle of repose but
is considerably steeper than the seaward
face. A landward slope at the angle of repose,
such as described by Hoyt (1962) and Davis
et al. (1972), is commonly found on the bars
when they are exposed at low tide. This
slipface apparently forms during failing tide,
when water washes over the bar into the
nearly calm longshore trough. Trenches
across several of these steep landward slopes
have shown that the steeply-dipping large-
scale crossbedding formed by migration of
the bar slipface is a minor part of the bar
deposit (Fig. 8).
The rip-channel-mouth bar, here included
as part of the bar facies, is the least known
part of the depositional system. On the rela-
tively small tip-channel-mouth bars that we
have dived on, seaward-facing megaripples
occur on the bar crest when the tip current
is moderately active and may occur some
distance down the seaward side when the
current is most active. The nature of the
transition between rip-current dominance
and wave dominance is unknown. At low
tide, when waves break over the rip-channel-
mouth bar, shoreward-facing megaripples
occur on the shallower parts of the bar crest,
N
NUMBER OF
MEASUREMENTS
( I0 aO
PERCENT
6 DAYS
COMBINED EXPL A NAT/ON
PATTERN
718 RALPH E. HUNTER, H. EDWARD CLIFTON, AND R. LA WRENCE PHILLIPS
" : : B;,R
S~ ~PACE
' ~-----'- : ~ ~ "-::: :- / TROLGH
gRO SBED5 FZ,,?IN6 S 25°E
FDqMED B ~ ~EGA;~ PPL E CRCSSBEDS FADNG $ 6 5 ° E
MIGR&TION ~ORMED B ] BAR SLIPFACE MI,:3~,~TION
Fro. 8.--Cross section showing internal structures
on landward slope of bar. Fourmile Creek area. Section
is normal to trend of bar crest and sfipface; land to
fight. The crossbedding produced by migration of the
bar slipface does not form a major part of the bar
deposit.
while seaward-facing megaripples occur on
the deeper parts in response to a residual
rip current.
Longshore Trough Facies.--Longshore cur-
rents flowing through the main part of the
longshore trough tend to winnow finer ma-
terial from the trough and generate trans-
verse bedforms facing in a longshore direc-
tion (cf. Ajbulatov et al., 1962; Davidson-Ar-
nott and Greenwood, 1976; Reineck, 1963;
Hill and Hunter, 1976). The most typical
structures are slightly linguoid megaripples
and linguoid to irregular tipples. Very large,
nearly straight-crested transverse bedforms,
perhaps best termed sand waves (Harms et
al., 1975), are present at times; they have
spacings of 10 to 12 m and heights of about
! m. One particularly strong flow produced
a flat gravel lag. Near the toe of the bar,
we have on several days seen lunate meg-
aripples facing obliquely offshore, suggest-
ing the helical flow system discussed in the
section on hydrodynamic processes.
FtG. 9.--Onshore-facing waves ripples in longshore
trough at low tide. Fourmile Creek area. Land to right.
The tipples are crossed by smaller ripples that face
in the direction of longshore flow.
When the flow over the bar crest dimin-
ishes because of a low tide, smaller waves,
or waves from a different direction, the
longshore current slackens and wave motion
becomes the dominant process in the trough.
During these periods, the trough tends to
become partly filled with sand that is freer
than that flooring the trough during episodes
of intense longshore flow. The tipples or
megaripples that are produced by wave action
in the trough face landward (Fig. 9). The
longshore trough facies therefore may show
a vertical sequence of relatively coarse sand
a n d / o r gravel containing longshore-dipping
medium-scale trough crossbedding overlain
by somewhat finer sand in which appear
onshore-dipping medium- and small-scale
trough and tabular crossbedding. The upper
part of this sequence is probably seldom
preserved. Although the longshore-dipping
crossbeds generally dip in ordy one of the
two possible directions, reversals produced
during a shift in wave direction were seen
once.
Rip-channel Facies.--The longshore trough
facies grades downcurrent into the tip-
channel facies, which is characterized by
off sore-facing current structures. The rip
channel commonly contains somewhat finer
sediment than does the longshore trough.
Seaward-facing lunate megaripples about
one-half meter high are the most common
bedform (cf. Reineck, 1963; Ingle, 1966, p.
79; Cook, 1970; Davidson-Arnott and Green-
wood, 1976). Once we saw a series of
seaward-facing, 20- to 50-cm high, very
asymmetric, straight-crested bedforms of
small height-to-spacing ratio that are perhaps
best termed sand waves (Harms et al., 1975).
The sand waves occur near the margin of
the channel adjacent to the next bar down-
drift. At periods of low tide or small waves,
the tip channel, like the longshore trough,
fills partly with sand, and onshore-facing
tipples develop under the influence of shoal-
ing waves.
The internal structure of the tip-channel
facies consists predominantly of offshore-
dipping trough crossbedding produced by
migrating megaripples. The sand waves may
generate tabular crossbedding. The tip-chan-
nel facies, fike the longshore trough facies,
may contain a rarely preserved upper part
characterized by onshore-dipping crossbed-
 BA RRED NEA RSHORE S YSTEMS
ding and ripple bedding produced by shoaling
waves.
Inner Longshore Trough Facies.--The com-
plex interaction of waves and unidirection-
al currents in the landward part of the long-
shore trough produces what we consider to
be a separate facies, which resembles the
inner rough facies described by Clifton et
al. (1971b). The coarsest sediment in the
system accumulates in this area of intense
winnowing by waves and currents. At the
toe of the beach, seaward-facing lunate meg-
aripples commonly develop m medium to
coarse sand and free gravel. Slightly seaward,
the long-crested ripples change from
seaward-facing to landward-facing. At times,
longshore-facing ripples develop in response
to longshore flow either parallel to or counter
to the main longshore current. The resulting
facies is coarse and contains crossbeds of
several types and widely varying orientation.
InnerPlanarFacies.--This facies, which com-
prises the swash zone of the beach at in-
termediate and high tide levels, is charac-
terized by parallel lamination like that found
on the non-barred beaches of southern Ore-
gon (Clifton et al., 197 lb) and on most beach
foreshores elsewhere.
PREDICTED VERTICAL SEQUENCES
Oblique Bar--Rip Channel System
Our cores did not fully penetrate the mod-
em deposits of the oblique bar-rip channel
systems in southern Oregon. However, we
can deduce the probable nature of the vertical
sequence produced by the unidirectional
longshore migration of the bars during sum-
mer seasons from a knowledge of the surficial
facies.
The deposits resulting from the migration
of an oblique bar through a distance of at
least one bar length can be modeled by
projecting a bar-trough couplet onto a vertical
plane normal to shore. Figure 10 shows
schematically a longshore projection of the
bar-trough couplet shown in Figures 3 to 5.
The figure can also be thought of as a cross
section along the line A-A' of Figure 4,
viewed along a line of sight parallel to shore.
The upper and lower bounding surfaces of
the prism of sediment shown in Figure 10
represent respectively the highest and lowest
elevations reached during passage of the
719
A A'
MSL -
PACIES
Swash 3r
Swash Irough Iransition 2 I"
[~] Longshore trough II
C~ Rip channel O0 30 80 M
Bar
Neorshore- offshore trans~hon
FIG. 10.--Schematic alongshore projection of the
deposit formed by longshore migration of an oblique
bar-rip channel system. The projection can be thought
of as a cross section along the line A-A' of Figure
4 viewed in a longshore direction.
bar-trough couplet through the plane. The
lower bounding surface is erosional.
Figure 10 is based on the assumption that
the system migrates without change in form.
In reality, since the system does change
slowly during migration, the deposit may be
more complex than shown. Additional com-
plexities must arise from the fact that each
bar-trough couplet differs somewhat from
every other couplet. Nonetheless, Figure 10
should indicate with reasonable accuracy the
generalized three-dimensional relations of
the different facies.
The nature of the deposit preserved after
long-continued deposition, however, must
differ substantially from that shown in Figure
10 and must depend on the directions and
rates of bar migration, the rate of shoreline
advance or retreat, and the rate of rise or
fall of relative sea level. Shoreline deposits
are incorporated into the stratigraphic record
most commonly by progradation with or
without attendant changes in relative sea
level. In the following paragraphs we develop
a model of the vertical sequence produced
by the continuous unidirectional longshore
migration of oblique bars along a continu-
ously prograding coast when relative sea level
is constant. It should be stressed that the
model is not directly applicable to the Oregon
coast, for the Oregon oblique bars migrate
unldirectionally only during the summer sea-
son and the Oregon coast is not prograding.
The rate of progradation must generally
be much slower than the rate of longshore
720 RA L P H E. H UNTER. H. ED WA RD C L I F T O N , A ND R. L A W R E N C E P H I L L I P S
5 progradation (Davis et al., 1972).
2 Erosion of the bar during progradation
! should result in a distinct, laterally extensive,
PROGRADAT~ON
003 I00 200M
?\:,, MSL
FIo. I l.--Schematic cross section of the deposit that
would be formed by progradation of an oblique bar-rip
channel system at constant sea level. The progradation
is assumed to be much slower than the longshore
migration of the bars. Seaward-dipping erosion surfaces
separate the deposits of successively passing bar-trough
couplets, and a subhorizontal erosion surface separates
the nearshore-offshore transitional facies from the rip-
channel facies. Facies symbols as in Figure 10.
migration of the bars, which is as much as
300 m per month in southern Oregon. Ac-
cordingly, the passage of each bar-trough
couplet must leave a relatively thin net depos-
it, and the facies relations in the prograda-
tional deposit can therefore be visuafized by
translating Figure 10 in a horizontal seaward
direction in a series of small steps. As the
topographic depression of the longshore
trough and rip channel translates seaward,
it erodes the bar facies (Fig. 11). The resulting
progradational sequence should contain little
or none of the bar facies, even though the
bar facies is a dominant component within
the system at any one time.
The predicted lack of preserved bars is
based on the assumptions that all the bar-
trough couplets are identical and that the
system does not change in form during the
period of beach progradation. In reafity, the
bar facies probably will be preserved
sporadically. For example, bars may develop
in relatively deep water as the result of
unusually large waves, after which the waves
may diminish so greatly that the bars remain
inactive until they are buried by the prograd-
ing beach. Alternatively, bars may migrate
shoreward during periods of small waves
until they are welded onto the beach and
preserved in this modified form by continuing
subhorizontal erosion surface below the rip-
channel facies (Fig. l 1). Because of varia-
tions in water depth from one rip channel
to another and in each channel through time,
the erosion surface would probably be rather
wavy and might sprit locally into two or more
closely spaced surfaces. Other erosion sur-
faces that should occur within the deposit
are the bounding surfaces of the net deposits
of every migrating bar-trough couplet. These
surfaces would dip gently seaward and would
occur both above and below the subhorizon-
tal erosion surface. They might not be recog-
nizable as erosion surfaces because they
would be nearly parallel to bedding and would
not separate dissimilar facies.
A vertical sequence (Fig. 12) through the
progradational deposit should show a pro-
nounced change in texture and structure
across the subhorizontal erosion surface that
divides the sequence into two main parts.
Sand of the inner offshore facies beneath
the erosion surface should be relatively fine
grained and show onshore-dipping ripple-
foreset bedding or bioturbate structure. The
overlying sand of the tip-channel facies
should be much coarser, perhaps pebbly, and
show seaward-dipping crossbeds. Above this
we would expect a gradational sequence of
(1) coarse sand or pebbly sand with long-
shore-dipping crossbeds (longshore trough
facies) overlain by (2) the coarsest sediment
in the deposit containing a variety of ripple
bedding and crossbedding (inner longshore
trough facies), overlain in turn by (3) finer
sand or pebbly sand with parallel lamination
(inner planar facies).
The bar facies, if present, would occur
near the erosion surface. Medium-scale on-
shore-dipping crossbedding of the outer part
of the bar facies would be preserved beneath
the erosion surface if the seaward edge of
the bar facies was deeper than the deepest
point in the rip channel. Inner parts of the
bar facies would most likely occur a little
above the erosion surface.
We have not developed a model for trans-
gressive sequences. Beach and nearshore
deposits are rarely preserved during trans-
gressions for reasons discussed in detail by
Swift (1968).
 BA RRED NEA RSHORE S YSTEMS 721

GRAIN SIZE SEDIMENTARY ENVIRONMENT

STRUCTURES
Gravel Sand Silt Seaward
0

Swash

Swash-trough
E
c2 m
transition
Longshore trough
~5
C~ Rip channel
09
C
~4 z..-/// /2//

1
E Nearshore-offshore
i////l/t transition
_o5
i////IH
l/////z /
[l/Ill f
cz~ Offshore

7 - , ,/
FtG. 12.--Vertical sequence of sediment types and internal structures that would be formed by progradation
of an oblique bar-tip channel system of the kind occurring in southern Oregon. The progradation is of the
type shown in Figure 1I.

Comparison with Non-barred High-energy crossbeds should be more c o m m o n m the

Nearshore System
Progradation of a non-barred high-energy
nearshore system of the type found in south-
ern Oregon (Clifton et al., 1971b) should
produce a vertical sequence that in many
ways resembles the sequence produced by
progradation of an oblique bar-rip channel
system (Figs. 12, 13). However, the two types
should differ in several ways. Erosion sur-
faces might be produced in the non-barred
nearshore by storms or by seasonal changes
in the beach-nearshore profde, but these
would be gently seaward-dipping surfaces
cutting across the sequence rather than a
major horizontal boundary within the se-
quence. Offshore- and longshore-dipping
barred than in the non-barred sequence at
levels more than a meter below the swash-
zone facies. Medium-scale onshore-dipping
crossbeds produced by lunate megaripples
should be more c o m m o n in the non-barred
sequence but might be occasionally pre-
served in the barred sequence.
Progradation of a coast whose nearshore
fluctuates from barred during storms or
stormy seasons to non-barred during rela-
tively calm periods would probably produce
a deposit too complex to predict in detail.
However, one important generalization can
be made from observations by Shepard
(1950b) and others that, where a cycle of
this kind occurs, the storm and fair-weather
profiles typically cross at a shallow subtidal
722 RALPH E. HUNTER, H. EDWARD CLIFTON, AND R. LA WRENCE PHILLIPS

GRAI N SIZE SEDI MENTARY ENVIRONMENT

STRUCTURES
Gravel Sand Silt Seaward
0
Swash

E Swash-surf
.E 2 transition
>

Surf
ffl

///// /////t
g4
E Nearshore-offshore
J/l/~,
Z/l/lilt
transition
05
//////¢ ¢
ill/lit
~6 )
C3 Offshore
7
- , ,I f f 7
FIG. 13.--Vertical sequence of sediment types and internal structures that would be formed by progradation
of a non-barred nearshore system of the kind occurring in southern Oregon.

level, the storm profde being uppermost
seaward of the crossing level and the fair-
weather prorfle being uppermost landward
of that level (Fig. 14). Therefore, the lower
subtidal parts of a progradational sequence
should consist preferentially of storm depos-
its and the intertidal parts should consist
preferentially of fair-weather deposits. More
precisely, the intertidal parts of the sequence
should consist of materials deposited be-
tween the times of greatest storm erosion
and greatest fair-weather buildup and thus
might include material deposited during wan-
ing storms or post-storm recovery periods
as well as during the following periods when
the beach profile is of fair-weather form.
As noted by Wunderlich (1971), the faster
the progradation, the greater the preservation
of fair-weather intertidal deposits.
Comparison with Other Barred Nearshore
Systems
The nature of the vertical sequence pro-
duced during the progradation of a barred
nearshore system can be expected to vary
with the morphology of the system, the wave
and current regime, and the availability of
various grain sizes. Among important mor-
phologic factors are the orientations of the
bars and troughs relative to the shoreline
and the number of bar-trough couplets in
a prof'de normal to shore. The nature of the
sequence is affected not only by the mor-
phology at any one time but also by the
growth, migration, and decay of the bars and
troughs. The migration of bars and troughs
affects the sequence by affecting the pres-
ervation potentials of different parts of the
 BA R R E D NEA R S H O R E S Y S T E M S 723

SUMMER DEPOSIT
~._~_.____._~ERODED IN WINTER
"~A/~:L.. . . ( . ~ MSL
• /,~-i~,,,.\ - ~- WINTER DEPOSIT
"~ ~ M E R

A
• ,TX' . ~ MSL

S-O S-I S-2 S-5

B
FIt. 14.--Schematic cross section of deposits that would be formed in a beach and nearshore system that
is barred during winters (or other stormy periods) and non-barred during summers (or other relatively calm
periods). A) Deposits of a system that is in a state of long-term equilibrium. B) Deposit formed by progradation
at constant sea level during four years (or other cycles). The surfaces S-0 to S-4 and W-1 to W-4 are the
surfaces formed at the climaxes of successive summer and winter seasons (or other calm and stormy periods).

system and by producing erosion surfaces channel system. Progradation accompanied

within the sequence.
Bars and troughs are limited in their direc-
tions of migration by their orientations. For
example, a continuous longshore bar can
conceivably move either landward or sea-
ward but, in contrast to an oblique bar, can-
not move alongshore. Observed movements
are typically landward when the waves de-
crease in size and seaward when they in-
crease in size (Evans, 1940; King and Wil-
liams, 1949; Riviere, 1949; Shepard, 1950a;
Volbrecht, 1957). Bar movements in response
to changing water levels in lakes have also
been observed (Saylor and Hands, 1970;
Hands, 1976; Dubois, 1976). It seems proba-
ble, then, that a longshore bar can migrate
seaward so as to maintain an equilibrium
position as the shoreline progrades (Fraser
and Hester, 1977), though it should be noted
that Curray, Emmel, and Crampton (1969)
proposed a progradational model involving
the growth, landward migration, and welding
onto the beach of successive longshore bars.
Assuming seaward migration of the bars,
the resulting progradational sequence can be
simulated graphically by translating a cross
section of the system in a seaward direction,
just as in the case of an oblique bar-rip
by seaward movement of a longshore bar
and trough ideally would produce a deposit
having an extensive subhorizontal erosion
surface at the level of the trough. In actuality,
of course, lateral and vertical movements
of the bar and trough m response to changing
wave conditions would complicate the ero-
sion surface. Immediately overlying the ero-
sion surface would occur a longshore trough
facies characterized by longshore-dipping
crossbeds (Ajbulatov et al., 1962; Hill and
Hunter, 1976), rather than a rip-channel
facies characterized by seaward-dipping
crossbeds. Underlying the erosion surface
would occur an inner offshore facies or a
facies representing the lower seaward slope
of the bar.
Nearshore systems having discontinuous
longshore bars, longshore troughs, and tip
channels resemble oblique bar-tip channel
systems in that the morphologic elements can
conceivably migrate alongshore. However,
longshore migration does not seem to be as
common in this type of system as the cutting
of new rip channels and the filling of old
ones after only slight migration (Davis and
Fox, 1972, 1975; Greenwood and Davidson-
Arnott, 1975). Seaward migration of the bars
72g RA L P H E. H U N T E R , H. ED WA RD C L I F T O N , A ND R. LA W R E N C E P H I L L I P S
and troughs during progradation seems as
reasonable in this type of system as in sys-
tems having continuous longshore bars and
troughs, but the subhorizontal erosion sur-
face produced by migration of the longshore
trough would tend to be broken into discon-
tinuous segments by seaward-dipping erosion
surfaces representing the cutting of rip chan-
nels to their deepest levels. Immediately
overlying the subhorizontal erosion surface
would occur a longshore trough facies, and
underlying it would occur a complex of
rip-channel facies, inner offshore facies, and
perhaps a facies representing the lower
seaward slope of the bar.
In a progradational model based on
seaward migration of longshore bars and
troughs, the main effect of the number of
bar-trough couplets is to control the number
of subhorizontal erosion surfaces in the de-
posit. Ideally, each trough should produce
a single erosion surface during progradation.
Nearshores with two, three, or four long-
shore bar-trough couplets are common on
present coasts, so that multiple subhorizontal
erosion surfaces produced by multiple bar-
trough couplets should be looked for in
ancient nearshore deposits.
The rate of supply of various grain sizes
to the nearshore has several effects. In com-
bination with wave and current energy and
with the rate of relative rise or fall of sea
level, it controls the overall texture of the
deposit. The segregation of the various avail-
able grain sizes in different parts of the
nearshore controls the vertical sequence of
textures in the progradational deposit. Final-
ly, the grain size of the available sediment,
m combination with the character of the
waves and currents, controls the type of
sedimentary structure (Clifton, 1976).
Most textural studies of barred nearshore
systems indicate a pattern of mean grain size
similar to that in the oblique bar-rip channel
system of southern Oregon. The coarsest
sediment is commonly at the toe of the
foreshore (Miller and Zeigler, 1964; Fox,
Ladd, and Martin, 1966), and the grain size
decreases seaward except for superimposed
variations related to the bars and troughs.
Most studies indicate that trough sediments
are coarser than the adjacent bar sediments
(Mothersill, 1969; Saylor and Hands, 1970;
Greenwood and Davidson-Arnott, 1972),
though the opposite relation has been noted
in a few places (Fox et al., 1966; Bajorunas
and Duane, 1967). Our own experience (Hill
and Hunter, 1976; unpub, data of Clifton
from the southeastern coast of Spain, sug-
gests that trough sediments are coarser than
adjacent bar sediments whenever the troughs
are cut to their greatest depths during periods
of high wave energy.
The general increase in grain size from
the offshore to the toe of the foreshore should
lead to a general upward coarsening in any
nearshore progradational sequence. The ten-
dency for coarse sediment to be concentrated
in troughs should lead to a sharp upward
increase in grain size across the subhorizontal
erosion surfaces that mark the seaward
migration of the troughs during progradation.
A wide range of available grain sizes should
increase the textural contrast in the upward-
coarsening sequence as a whole and across
the subhorizontal erosion surfaces.
CONCLUSIONS
The major morphological elements of the
oblique bar-rip channel system of the south-
ern Oregon coast include a bar that isattached
to the foreshore at its upcurrent end, nearly
parallel to shore through most of its length,
and bowed seaward into a rip-channel-mouth
bar at its downcurrent end, and a longshore
trough that curves seaward into a rip channel.
The net flow of water is obliquely shoreward
over the main part of the bar, parallel to
shore through the longshore trough, and
seaward through the rip channel and over
the rip-channel-mouth bar. The most com-
m o n internal structure in the system is me-
dium-scale crossbedding formed by megarip-
pies that migrate in the direction of net water
movement. The oblique bar-rip channel sys-
tem described here is very similar to the
system along the German North Sea coast
described by Reineck (1963) and is probably
a typical example of this widely distributed
type of nearshore system.
Nearshore deposits are most commonly
preserved in progradational sequences. Slow
continuous progradation of an oblique bar-rip
channel system would lead to the destruction
of most or all of the bar deposits. The
resulting vertical sequence would be charac-
terized by a subhorizontal erosion surface
separating the rip channel facies from un-
 BARRED NEARSHORE S YSTEMS
derlymg inner offshore deposits. Similar ero-
sion surfaces should be typical of deposits
formed during the slow progradation of most
kinds of barred nearshore systems but would
not be found in non-barred nearshore depos-
its.
Although our ideas on the structures of
the sand body that would be formed during
progradation of a nearshore system are spec-
ulative, we have been guided in their devel-
opment by observations of Pleistocene and
older coastal deposits. The occurrence of
extensive subhorizontal erosion surfaces in
ancient nearshore sequences is a recognized
problem (Harms et al., 1975, p. 81-102) that
our progradational model accounts for.
Nearshore progradational sequences having
erosion surfaces overlain by seaward-dipping
crossbeds and interpretable as the deposits
of oblique bar-tip channel systems have been
found in the middle Miocene Caliente
Formation of California by Clifton (Harms
et al., 1975, p. 91-95, Clifton, 1973). Near-
shore progradational sequences having ero-
sion surfaces overlain by longshore-dipping
crossbeds occur in several Upper Cretaceous
formations of the Rocky Mountains and
Colorado Plateau (Howard, 1972; Harms et
al., 1975); we interpret these as the deposits
of longshore bar-trough systems.
Additional work is needed to fill several
gaps in the present state of knowledge of
nearshore depositional systems. Studies of
sedimentary structures are needed in a wider
variety of nearshore systems, and the physi-
cal factors controlling the type of nearshore
morphology need to be better determined.
Our hypothesis of seaward migration of bars
during progradation needs to be tested. Cores
that completely penetrate modern nearshore
deposits are needed for the comparison of
predicted and actual vertical sequences. Until
these needs are met, the ability to interpret
the environments of ancient nearshore sand-
stones must remain far from perfect.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
We wish to acknowledge assistance in the
field by C. H. Carter, R. A. Cook, J. L.
Goodale, C. B. Johnson, A. G. McHendrie
and S. F. Stringham. Useful criticism of the
manuscript was provided by J. S. Booth,
S. H. Clarke, Jr., W. T. Fox, and K. O.
Stanley.
725
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