Introduction To Confectionery Shelf Life: Chef Russ Thayer

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#FUNDAMENTALFRIDAY

INTRODUCTION TO
CONFECTIONERY SHELF LIFE
CHEF RUSS THAYER 

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

an introduction to
confectionery shelf life
The video which accompanies this text can be found on
Chocolate Academy Online Instagram TV.
@chocolateacademyonline

  shelf life of confections is a topic which Chocolate Academy Online frequently


The
receive requests to cover, and so I decided to provide a brief introduction to this
topic on a recent edition of #FundamentalFriday. 

Shelf life is a vast and varied subject. The information covered here is applicable to
almost any food that one wishes to preserve, however, it is chocolate confections
which draw the most attention. Confections produced in the pastry kitchen are often
filled with ganache, and typically these are the products which we expect to have
amongst the longest shelf life of any of the products we make, and therefore this
guide is primarily focused on ganache filled confections. But again, these principles
generally apply to a wide range of confectionery products.

Confections are complex products, usually involving multiple ingredients, recipes,


and processes. We must pay careful attention to each and every stage in the life of
confections, from development to consumption, and every stage in-between, in
order to maximize the life of these precious products.

In this guide we will cover some of the major areas of concern, such as the basic
methods of preservation, natural preservative ingredients, managing water content,
hygiene, storage practices, and more!

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

shelf life of chocolate confections


Shelf life can be defined as the maximum time for which
products can be stored, during which the defined quality of the
goods remains acceptable under normal conditions of
distribution, storage and display.
THE MOST COMMON ISSUES OBSERVED IN CONFECTIONS:

1 - Physical changes 
Fat bloom
Sugar bloom
Absorption of odors and flavors
Loss of flavor
Drying
Moisture absorption
Undesirable crystallization (fats and sugars)
Causes:
Storage
Handling
Production techniques

2 - Microbial spoilage
Molds, yeasts, bacteria
Causes:
High free moisture content in foods 
Ingredient mishandling (not washing) 
Environment, machines, people (hygiene)

3 - Chemical spoilage 
Oxidation (rancidity) of the fats
Causes:
Ingredient selection
Storage conditions

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

shelf life of chocolate confections


Two broad areas can be examined when trying to understand
the cause of shelf life issues:

Factors inside the product


Factors outside the product

Internal Factors = inside the product


Recipe balance
Water Activity - Aw (microbial spoilage)
% solids, % sugar, pH, etc
Rancidity
Moisture migration (if you have multiple fillings)
Fat migration
Sugar crystallization

External Factors = outside the product


Environment, machines, people
Storage
Production techniques
Physical damage
External odors
External moisture migration / Humidity / Drying
External temperature change
Hygiene

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

basics of extending
shelf life
PRESERVATION

Goals of Food Preservation:

To preserve the natural characteristics of food


To preserve the appearance of food
To increase the shelf life of food for storage

Food preservation is one of the oldest technologies used by


human beings to avoid its spoilage. Different ways and means
have been found and improved for the purpose.

THE BASIC IDEA BEHIND ALL FORMS OF FOOD PRESERVATION IS:

To slow down the activity of disease-causing bacteria

or

To kill the bacteria altogether

and

Prevent unwanted physical changes in the product over time

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

basics of extending
shelf life
METHODS OF PRESERVATION:

Boiling
Canning
Smoking
Pickling
Reducing moisture content
Drying
Freeze drying
Ingredient selection / Balancing
Add natural preservatives
Salting
Sugaring (Candying)
Alcohol
Acids
Add chemical preservatives
Practicing good hygiene
Good storage practices
Temperature control
Modified packaging techniques like vacuum packing and
hypobaric packing also work as food preservatives
Reduce temperature
Refrigeration
Freezing

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

basics of extending
shelf life
METHODS OF PRESERVING CONFECTIONS:

Boiling
Canning
Smoking
Pickling
Reducing moisture content
Drying
Freeze drying
Ingredient selection / Balancing
Add natural preservatives
Salting
Sugaring (Candying)
Alcohol
Acids
Add chemical preservatives
Practicing good hygiene
Good storage practices
Temperature control
Modified packaging techniques like vacuum packing and
hypobaric packing also work as food preservatives
Reduce temperature
Refrigeration
Freezing

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

natural preservatives
A simple tour around the pantry will produce a wide variety of natural
food preservatives, such as sugars, alcohol, salt, vinegar, and spices.
These are the traditional preservatives in food that are also used at
home while making pickles, jams, preserves, and the like. 

Sugars and salt are the earliest natural food preservatives that very
efficiently combat the growth of bacteria in food

Salt is still used as a natural food preservative for meat and fish

Sugars are still used as natural food preservatives for fruits and
vegetables

SUGARS
Sugars have long been used in the confectionery industry to both impart
a specific taste to the products as well as extend the preservation of
various products.

A wide selection of sugars are available to the confectioner and the


properties of each must be understood in order to utilize these products
to their full advantage. Please refer to the guide on common sugars used
in confections for more information.

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

natural preservatives
ALCOHOL
Seldom used for the creation of ganaches, since the moisture and (possible)
sugar content makes ganache very soft, and with the increased water content,
ALCOHOL

shortens the shelf life.

Typically alcohol is only used when a specific flavor is desired


whiskey, cognac, etc

In order to extend shelf life, pure alcohol (+/- 96%) should be used
at %17 of the total moisture content, an ideal shelf life is achieved
This is illegal in USA and muslim countries
alcohol in any amount does help with shelf life, however alcohol is not a
silver bullet for extending shelf life for many reasons
Contributes a “hot” alcohol taste
Reduces audience, as many people do not consume alcohol
Greatly increases food cost
Interferes with Water Activity testing (prevents accurate results)

SALT
Salt is a powerful preservative, but only in relatively high concentrations, and
thus we cannot use it for its preservation abilities. The nature of confections is
not to exhibit a salty taste, and therefore salt is only used as a flavor
enhancement.

ACIDS
Acids are also useful preservatives which aid in the lowering of pH, which is a
powerful means of extending shelf life; however, like salt, acids impart a taste
that is generally not desired in confections and therefore acids typically
cannot be used in sufficient quantity to extend shelf life.

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

chemical PRESERVATION
Chemical preservatives are substances (organic or inorganic) that are added
to foodstuffs to help extend their shelf life
ALCOHOL

They prevent the growth of bacteria, molds and yeasts


Only needed if the foodstuff is intended to be kept for an extended period
Foods contain carbohydrates, proteins, fats, and often water. When these
are combined, especially if oxygen is present, it creates the perfect
conditions for the growth of microorganisms

Chemical preservatives work by changing the conditions inside the foodstuff so


that microorganisms are unable or barely able to grow, or the substance may
be specifically lethal to microorganisms.
Obviously these preservatives should not be harmful to humans

Authorized preservatives are given an E-number in the range of 200-299


E202 - Potassium Sorbate
E203 - Calcium Sorbate

It is perfectly acceptable to use approved preservatives if you wish, however


the choice of possible preservatives is limited for the following reasons:
Most preservatives only work in low pH environments, and this low pH
usually causes the ganache to curdle, or provides an undesirable flavor
The most common preservatives, the sorbates, only help against fungi
Typically preservatives are avoided in artisan products to protect the image
of the product, and thus are not considered further in this guide

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

Good reasons
to extend shelf life
Improved labor costs
ALCOHOL

Improved overall profits


Reduce food waste
Reduced production times
Build up stock for busy periods
Free up time in the kitchen for other activities
Guarantee of quality throughout the entire supply chain

Good reasons
NOT to extend shelf life
Able to claim only truly fresh products
“Hey, want to taste this 1 year old ganache?”
Shows value/care to consumer
Reduce complexity
Reduce ingredient label
Easier to have “clean labels”
Allows for the truest flavors
Gives consumer a reason to return to you more quickly (for more
deliciousness!)
Allows you to focus on making small batches of unique flavors
gives you lots of room for experimentation

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

Extending Shelf Life:


Controlling Moisture
EXTENDING SHELF LIFE BY BALANCING RECIPES
ALCOHOL

The art of balancing to increase shelf life is to use as many


ingredients as possible in the recipe that have the ability to bind with
water, without compromising taste nor texture.

Beneficial ingredients to use for this purpose are as follows:


All the various sugars
Preferred sugars are: low sweetness + good at creating
balance in relative humidity
Glucose
Sorbitol
Glycerin
Salt*
Alcohol*
Acids*
Fibers
Proteins (milk protein, soy protein, etc)

A VERY SIMPLE EXAMPLE OF HOW WATER


AFFECTS SHELF LIFE:

Shelf life of milk = 1-2 weeks


Shelf life of cream = 2-3 weeks
Shelf life of fresh butter = 3-4 weeks
Shelf life of clarified butter = 6 months

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

IDEAL FRAMED DARK CHOCOLATE GANACHE FORMULATION


Derived from trials, studies, evaluation of proven recipes and some intuitions:

Total water content: 20% maximum

Total sugar content: 25 - 30% minimum

Cocoa butter content: 10 - 33% (depends on format*)

Dairy fat content: 15% max

Total fat content: 25 – 40%

Dry Cocoa content: 10-16% maximum

IN PERSPECTIVE: FRAMED GANACHE COMPARED TO FRESH BUTTER

Framed Fresh
Ganache: Butter:

Total water content: 20% ±16%


maximum

Total solids content: 80% ±84%


minimum

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

extending shelf life:


Binding Moisture
WATER IN OUR RECIPES
ALCOHOL

TOTAL WATER CONTENT:


The total moisture content of a product only provides limited
information on its shelf life
Total moisture content = water in all products in the recipe
Two foods with the same moisture content can have different shelf
life
BOUND vs. FREE WATER:
The rate of spoilage actually depends on the water that is available
to micro-organisms and chemical reactions, not the total moisture
content
Water NOT available to micro-organisms = BOUND WATER
Water available to micro-organisms = FREE WATER
Each ingredient used in a recipe has its own unique capacity to bind
with water until they are saturated. Take sugar for example, a sugar
molecule binds with a water molecule; this water is no longer
available for microbiological activity.
ALCOHOL

Example 1: Example 2:
Water content: 20% Water content: 20%
Aw: .750 Aw: .900
Sugars, salt, etc Free Water

Bound Water Microorganisms

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

Introduction to
Water Activity
WATER ACTIVITY (AW)
A MEASUREMENT OF BOUND WATER VS. FREE WATER

Indicates how much water is available in a food product for all manner of
reactions
FREE WATER = ACTIVE WATER
A better measure of the risk of spoilage than the water content itself
Aw value is an abstract number and is always greater than 0 and less than 1
Aw is measured at the temperature at which the product is distributed and
sold (20°C)
Expressed on a scale from 0 to 1:
0 = completely dry mass or solid ingredients
1 = 100% water
0.5 stands for a solution corresponding to the activity of 50% free water

BE CAREFUL!
DO NOT CONFUSE MOISTURE CONTENT WITH WATER ACTIVITY

Water Content:
Total amount of water 
free water + water fixed by the components

Water Activity:
Represents the free water in a product.

2 food products with the same Water content can have a different Aw (and vise
versa).

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

Introduction to Aw
Product Water Content Aw

Milk 88% .993 - .995


Dry Milk Powder 2-4% .100 - .300
Butter (unsalted) 16% >.970
Butter (salted) 14% .910 - .940
Evaporated Milk 73% .980 - .990
Condensed Milk 27% .770 - .850
Glucose Syrup 20% .680 - .720
Ganache 1 20% .780 - .830
Ganache 2 20% .850 - .900

Aw Anticipated
Measurement: Shelf Life:

1.00 - 0.95 1 to 2 weeks


0.95 - 0.91 2 to 3 weeks
0.90 - 0.87 2 to 4 weeks
0.86 - 0.80 3 to 6 weeks
0.80 - 0.75 5 to 15 weeks
0.74 - 0.65 12 to 20 weeks
0.64 - 0.60 15 to 30 weeks
<0.60 15 to 50 weeks

These indicators are mainly helpful for the


microbiological aspect and they are not a
guarantee of shelf life regarding taste and
texture.

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

How is Aw Measured?
The typical system uses a sealed temperature controlled chamber. A sample is placed in the
chamber and sealed. The free water is allowed to escape into the air in the chamber. It
remains there until all the free water has left the sample.

At equilibrium the relative humidity  of the air in the chamber is measured. The relation of
this reading to pure water is the water activity measurement expressed as the term Aw.  The
range of water activity is from zero (no free water) to 1.0 (pure water).

How to Measure the Aw


of a Ganache
A specific machine with the ability to test for free water in the recipe Aw is needed.
Aw measuring instruments are expensive and if it is not necessary to measure this
value very often, such investment is not profitable
For infrequent testing, it is usually more cost effective to send samples to a lab for
testing
In the Chocolate Academy we have a portable Aw measuring instrument at a much
lower cost than the lab instruments. The results  are not as accurate, however it is quick
and easy to use.
Operation is easy. Once the ganache is prepared, we place it in a small cup designed for
the machine and we allow the ganache to crystallize at 20°C. We then put the cup in the
machine and process the sample. The measurement usually takes from 15 to 30 minutes
depending on the sample.
If the Aw reading is higher than advisable, we must re-formulate the recipe and repeat
the testing process.

In-depth information regarding the subject of Water Activity is easily found on the internet
by many companies who sell water activity devices and have provided content detailing the
use of the machines and the theory behind this subject.

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

Do I Need to Measure
the Water Activity?
Ask yourself a few questions:
1. Are you just starting out?
2. Are you an established chocolatier?
3. Is ganache your primary product?
4. Are you selling into the wholesale market?
5. Do you need absolute certainty?
6. Have you solved the other major issues that affect shelf life?
7. Are you also performing other shelf life tests?

Depending on your answers, then you may want to test the water activity!

WATER ACTIVITY MACHINES


A water activity meter purchase is only justified if you use it frequently and truly depend on
the results. Advised for larger operations selling products into wholesale and retail supply
chains where the longest possible shelf life is expected.

LAB TESTING
Individual tests are somewhat expensive and take longer to return results, however for
artisans who do not change recipes frequently and use similar recipes across all products,
lab tests will be the most practical and affordable option.

SOFTWARE PREDICTIONS
Some software applications theoretically calculate shelf life, but can only be trusted if you
also run real-life tests to prove accuracy!

MANUAL CALCULATION
Almost impossible if you don’t have scientifically verified data about your ingredients to
base calculations on.

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

Practicing Good Hygiene
Establishing hygienic procedures and routine checks of the production
process guarantee the safety of the products

Foodborne illness and diseases can be prevented by proper practices, which


insulate you from possible negative repercussions from ill customers

Identifying possible biological, chemical and physical dangers in the


workplace reduce the risks of foodstuffs becoming contaminated

The Temperature Danger Zone (TDZ) is from 40*F/4*C - 140*F/60*C, so


products in this range must be monitored with great care

Confections are typically stored, sold, and consumed inside the TDZ, so
extreme care must be taken to ensure the quality of the products

The products we use are rich in nutrients, which are a perfect breeding
ground for microorganisms, except for fats

For these reasons alone, it is easy to see why reducing the Aw of our products
is of great benefit

A certified course in Hygiene, such as ServSafe is recommended (if not


already required) for all staff before beginning production

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

Good Storage Practices


CONFECTIONERY STORAGE

HUMIDITY
As a rule, chocolate products should be stored in an area with a maximum relative
humidity of 70%
If the humidity of the room is too high, the risk of products absorbing moisture from the
room is also high and an increase of Aw and loss of crispy texture may occur
Store in draft free area, away from light and strong odors

PACKAGING
Choose airtight packaging which also protects against light, if possible
Packaging should be made of a sturdy material which is odor free

TEMPERATURE 
The ideal temperature for storing pure chocolate is between 12 and 18°C (54-64°F). 
At higher temperatures, the chocolate will soften and lose its gloss
Lower storage temperatures are less risky, however when products are brought back to
room temperature, condensation should be avoided as this can result in sugar bloom. 
Make sure the packaged chocolate products have returned to room temperature before
opening the packaging

REFRIGERATION
Generally not recommended for confections
High moisture content inside the refrigerator leads to products absorbing water
risk to increase Aw and also risk to lose/change texture

FREEZING
Great modern solution for extending the shelf life of products
Can reduce number of ingredients in the recipe and simplify balancing
Easy to do - simple steps, but need to be followed precisely
Depending on the product, sometimes minor textural changes might be noticed, but are
generally acceptable and minimal as long as proper practices are followed
No or minimal flavor change if properly packaged

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

How to Evaluate Products


and Determine Shelf Life
You must be willing to do full time trials. No single measurement like Moisture Content
or Water Activity can predict the future!

Define parameters before starting:


Shelf life expected
90 days? Goes bad in 60?
Specific chocolates / products to be used
Level of quality expected vs selling price
Storage conditions and type of market sales (retail, wholesale…)

Always be conservative with your shelf life statements.

It’s better to under-promise and over-deliver!


If you say your product will last for 40 days, and then it lasts for 60 days, then the
customer is happy.
If you say your product will last for 60 days, and it ONLY lasts for 40 days, then you
have just lost a customer.

Only make shelf life claims that you are 100% certain of after full-length trials.

If you have several ganache recipes, each with a Water Activity of .800, and those
ganache recipes all proved to last for 60 days, then you can safely assume that other
ganache recipes with a similar formulation will also have an Aw of .800, and should also
last for 60 days.

Achieving the same balance parameters in each recipe is a great way to safely assume
that all of your recipes will have the same shelf life.

For this reason, many chocolatiers have only 2 or 3 master ganache recipes which they
make only small changes to in terms of taste and texture for each product.

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO SHELF LIFE - CHEF RUSS THAYER

product evaluation sheet


Find a downloadable version here:
bit.ly/shelflifetracker

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FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - INTRODUCTION TO GANACHE BALANCING - CHEF RUSS THAYER

in conclusion
In the modern confectionery kitchen, where profits are built upon
reducing labor costs, ingredient costs, and other associated costs, it
is of obvious importance for the confectioner to extend the life of his
products as much as possible. There are many roads to success within
this topic, and each road is filled with its own advantages and
disadvantages.
It's a good idea to keep in perspective that confections already have
an inherently long shelf life when compared to most any other artisan
food product. This will help to keep our expectations in check when
we start trying to extend the life of our products in the most natural
ways possible.
As we discovered, a large part of what determines the shelf life of our
products revolves around water. Of course, it is more complex than
simply reducing the water content in our products. Ingredient
interactions are complex, and accounting for external factors can be
challenging, but understanding them is critical to improving the shelf
life of our products. Water activity testing can be a beneficial tool to
predicting how quickly molds, yeasts, and bacteria will overtake our
products.
More importantly, if we pay critical attention to our production
processes, storage conditions, and hygienic practices in the kitchen,
we greatly increase our chances of maximizing the life of our
expensive creations. And don’t forget that nothing replaces
experience, so full length trials of our products is the only certain way
to determine the shelf life which we can promise to our customers.
Keep your shelf life promises conservative, and once you can be
certain your product is safe for a longer period of time, then you can
pass that certainty along to your customers.
Profitable pastry chefs and confectioners understand which
preservative “tools” they have in their toolbox, how they work, and
how best to apply them in their work. The challenge lies in balancing
all of the aspects of shelf life to have exactly the results you are
after. Shelf life means something different to each and every chef, so
take the time to determine what that means for you, and then apply
the principles covered to help you achieve those goals.
All the best in your sweet chocolate journey, and never stop learning!
Russ Thayer
Lead Chef, Chocolate Academy Online

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