Many people think fashion is frivolous and the industry itself as vacuous and focused on

surface looks. However, fashion reflects the social and cultural norms of the day and even

precedes some of the major changes, which have occurred over the last fifty years.

Technological changes, the way people communicate, the way people see each other are

all tied up in fashion and now, more than ever, fashion reflects our society. This essay

aims to show how over time women have broken their tradition role within society,

through fashion, media and music.

The end of world war two saw many working women having to go back into the home

after having the freedom to participate in the workforce during the war. During the war

advertising encouraged women to leave their domestic lives and go out and work. After

the war ended corporations used advertisements to entice women to buy certain fashion

and beauty products to make themselves more appealing to the opposite sex. Women

took on jobs outside of the traditional jobs, which were available to women like nurses,

secretaries and teachers. ³As a way to lure young women into the factories, advertisers

showed women workers as glamorous and even fashionable. They mentioned that women

did not care much about their appearance while at work, but that they were still feminine

underneath the dirt´ Jhttp://www.boredpanda.com/women-at-work-1940s/). To reflect

this major shift, women began to be seen in slacks, something that was considered

unfeminine and scandalous before the war. Wartime rationing meant that major

resources, like fabric, were consigned to the war effort and fashion was conservative and

women had to be inventive with fabric and recycling. In 1947 Christian Dior released a

new line of clothing it was called "The new Look" and later coined as "The Dior

c
revolution". Dior steered away from the wartime look, which was very basic with box

shoulders, short skirts and tight fitting tops all, which were an implement to cut costs.

This definitive line saw the introduction of soft shoulders; waspy waists and the skirts

were long and flowing. Dior had hoped that this particular line would make women feel

more feminine and at ease now that they had returned to their stereotypical domestic

lives.

When the men returned home, women were forced back into the home. Birth rates were

on the rise, which meant there was greater need for a bigger house and a car. Major

technological changes occurred which were meant to make women¶s domestic lives

easier and happier however there was unrest and unease beneath the surface as women

resented the move back to being domestic. Fashion of the fifties was very feminine, with

flowing skirts and shapes, which emphasized the figure. It is easy to see how Barbie, who

was born in the 1950¶s got her iconic shape and she remains an icon of the ideal shape for

a woman, no matter how unrealistic. ³£arbie has always represented that a woman has

choices. Even in her early years, £arbie did not have to settle for only being Ken¶s

girlfriend or an inveterate shopper.´Jhttp://www.marcdolls.ch/engbarbie19592009.html).

Barbie became a staple for young girls.

Many revolutionary changes occurred within the fashion industry and society in the late

1940's. Television, introduced in the 1940¶s in the United States became a common

household item in the fifties and the idea of celebrity began here. On television,

advertising told women what to buy, how to wear it and where to buy it. During the 50¶s

c
the idea of the generation began to emerge along with the birth of rock and roll. Groups

such as µBodgies´ and ³widgies´ had their own unique style characterized by their

fashion.

In the 1950's the accepted social and cultural role for women was to be a homemaker. It

was her duty to cook clean and make sure that her husband was satisfied. A woman of

the 50's role was to please others. They had very little time for themselves. Most would

marry straight out of high school and it was predominantly only the wealthy that

furthered on to college. By 1956 nearly a quarter of all married women were working,

this created tension in many households. These women who had chosen to work were

also still required to maintain their household responsibilities. Many believed that

because they too were contributing to paying the bills that they deserved a say in how the

money was to be spent. It was common for married couples to argue over finances and

sometimes resulted in domestic violence. These ideologies were also passed on to the

younger generation. There were many books and articles written during these times,

advising women as to how they could be a good wife Jrefer to appendix a). This included

ideas about how to look like the perfect wife or wife to be. The return to conservative

values underpinned this as America tried to get back to pre war morality and values.

When article b is compared with Jarticle b) also titled How to be a Good House Wife, it is

obvious that the women¶s role within society has shifted drastically.The Cold War also

meant that there was an underlying sense of paranoia, which pervaded and anyone who

openly rocked the boast was considered to be a problem. However, there was a major

change in the late 1950¶s with the birth of rock and roll and the idea of counter culture.

c
During the 1950's designers produced more youthful clothing, which reflected the growth

of a generation gap. Teenagers were born during this decade and there were

developments, which specifically targeted them. Drive ins, rock and roll, films which

placed them at the center of the story all became popular with teenagers. Teenagers here

though, were considered to be eighteen years or older. The fashion which teenagers wore

was also different to what their parents wore, again reinforcing this idea of a generation

gap. Counter cultures grew, like the µbodgies¶ and the µwidgies¶ with their leather jackets,

tight jeans and short hair. These items of clothing were linked to music and stage and

were made popular by stars like Elvis Presley and James Dean, two teenage idols.

The influence of rock and roll is perhaps the biggest of the decade. African American

artists invaded the traditionally white industry and they brought with them the blues and

different ways of dance. Elvis Presley was very famously only filmed from the waist up

because of his suggestive moves which came directly from the underground black music

industry.

Famous icons of style in the 50's were actresses like Marilyn Munroe, Bridgett Bardot,

Audrey Hepburn and Sophia Lauren. These women all had a different style. Marilyn

Munroe was seen as a sex icon and dressed to depict this image, reflecting a loosening of

censorship laws in film. Her style, however, was still reminiscent of the 1940¶s whereas

c
Audrey Hepburn¶s style was more refined and sophisticated. She blended together a

conservative sexuality with modern trends. Women in these times aspired to be like these

stars, and break free from the constraints of domesticity and so the idea of the cult of

celebrity really began here. Actresses appeared on the covers of women¶s magazines,

replacing models and their home lives were shown on television.

Towards the late 1950's, a definable youth movement was also slowly emerging. This

saw teenagers begin to rebel against their parents. The average earnings of an adolescent

girl in 1956 were approximately $400 a year. This money was to be spent on fashion,

makeup and records. These emerging young women used fashion and makeup as self-

expression and the music, which they listened to, had a huge influence on how they

would dress and behave.

The unease, which was below the surface in the 1950¶s bubbled to top in the 1960's The

pill, released in 1962 meant that women, for the first time, were able to take

responsibility for their own contraception and did not have to wait until marriage to have

sex. The sexual liberation, which this sparked, flowed through into the flower power

movement. Feminists in the early 1960's rallied for equal pay for work, an end to

domestic violence as well as eliminating sexual harassment in the workplace. Women

began to openly protest about the right to work and they openly sought freedom from a

patriarchal system, which tried to keep them in the home. Two federal laws were passed

in this decade, which gave women more rights. The first right to be passed was in 1963

which required employers to pay men and women equally if they were fulfilling the same

c
role and then in 1964 The Civil rights Act was passed, which banned discrimination in

the workplace. For many years after even though these acts had been passed sexual

harassment and unfair treatment still occurred. The 1960¶s was an era of social, political

and cultural change and upheaval. Throughout the 60¶s feminist¶s ideologies were

accepted. Women were given greater opportunities within the workplace, household

responsibilities were being shared and women now had a greater chance of obtaining a

college degree.

With the UK now in economic recovery, young musicians and designers begin to emerge.

The Beatles were one of the definitive icons of the 60's. Their music was embraced by

American teenagers and introduced British fashion to American teenagers. Mini skirts,

made famous by British model Twiggy and designed by British designer Mary Quant was

a direct challenge to the fashion and so the morals of the 50¶s. It sat 6 to 7 inches above

the knee and was quite often teemed with knee high boots. The mini skirt and the Beatles

went hand in hand. Girls would aim to dress like the groupies who surrounded the band.

Another defining fashion item of the 60's was pantyhose, which alleviated the need for

girdles and suspender belts, and made everyday dressing more comfortable. The flower

power movement introduced a contrasting style with flowing dresses, bra less females,

bell bottom pants, tie dye, casual slip on shoes, no make up and a direct opposite to the

conservative and buckled up women of the 50¶s. The flower power movement, or hippie

culture, preached love and harmony and the birth of the environmental movement can

trace its roots here. Communal living alternative ways of life characterized the hippie

movement. The peace symbol is a recurring motif from this era and reflected the anti war

c
movement which had erupted through the 60¶s with American invasion of Vietnam. For

the first time, the American public openly criticized the Government and some of the

biggest protests through the 60¶s were about the war.

Music stars of the 60¶s also brought into popular culture the use of recreational drugs.

The Rolling Stones, Jimi Hendrix among others famously flaunted their drug use and the

hippie movement adopted this. The move to the psychedelic rock of the late 60¶s and

early 70¶s brought us flamboyant fashion with men having long hair and the idea of

androgyny also popular.

The early 70¶s reinforced this psychedelic culture with stars like T Rex and David Bowie

popular icons. The idea of androgyny and drug use reached new heights. Heavy rock

from artists like Led Zeppelin, another British group, introduced the black t-shirt and

black jeans, which are still part of that style today. Fashion of the early 70¶s was an

extension of what was happening in the late 60¶s. By 1975, rock was dead, apparently,

and disco was in and it was all about partying hard and partying fast. The stars that

dominated the music scene during this era were Donna Summers, The Bee Gee¶s, KC and

the Sunshine Band, The Jackson 5 and Diana Ross. Disco¶s most well-known fashion

item was the hot pant, which was usually matched with a sequined tube top and plat form

shoes. Sequins, sparkles, big hair and platform shoes were in. Studio 54 was one of the

most well known disco scenes. It was well known for its unrestrained drug use, which

resulted in a loss of inhibition in terms of sex, which would usually occur within the club.

³The club was arguably the most well known nightclub in the world. The club played a

c
major formative role in the growth of disco music and nightclub culture in

general.´(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Studio_54) The disco era went on a downhill slide

in the late 70¶s when clubs were forced to close their doors after being raided for drugs.

Punk music also began in the underground music scene with The Sex Pistols from

England emerging.

The 70¶s saw another economic recession due to an oil crisis. This recession inspired

bands such as the Sex Pistols to send anti establishment messages though music. Their

music shed a different light on life. Lyrics showed a hate for the world, which saw

listeners rebelling against mainstream society. The typical ³punk´ was heavily tattooed,

had multiple piercings and usually wore torn clothing. Studded belts were a typical

accessory worn by punks they were also renowned for wearing outlandish makeup.

Vivienne Westwood brought punk fashion to the forefront. Westwood was deeply

interested by the punk fashion phenomenon of the 1970s, saying "I was messianic about

punk, seeing if one could put a spoke in the system in some way". Westwood still owns

this shop, which is now known as ëorld's End, from which she sells the World's End

label. ³Jhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vivienne_Westwood)

In the early 1980¶s transnational corporations, cyber technology and electronic mass

media spawned tightly linked networks that covered the globe putting an end to the

recession. MTV began in the 1980¶s in which took the record and fashion industries to

another level. Music videos were now being made and saw another means in the way of

advertising. Madonna was one of the biggest icons to arise from the 80¶s and brought

along a new element to fashion. ³Thanks to Madonna, the 80's became a time where

c
women could wear a diamond studded cross, worn with a bra and

bangles.´(http://www.asuitthatfits.com/shop/index.php?option=com_myblog&task=tag&

category=80s+suits&Itemid=370) Madonna sent out strong views to women that they

should be strong and independent.

Along with this was the idea of power dressing large shoulder pads; suits and stiletto¶s

were in for women in the workforce. The idea of the superwoman prevailed which meant

that there was the notion that women could have it all and do it all, from work to family

to owning their own businesses or making it into politics. It was similar to the fashion of

the 1940¶s when women were in the workforce then with their shoulder pads and suits.

The 80¶s was also an era of economic boom, prior to the stock market crash, so

consumerism rose. It became the me era, as coined by Gordon Ghecko in Wall Street,

The idea of branding begins here, where people are wearing the product name on the

outside and this has grown since then and has become a major way advertisers sell their

products. The public essentially pays to advertise the product for the brand.

From the 1980¶s supermodels also on the rise and models such as Cindy Crawford and

Elle Macpherson were in the public eye. The modeling industry really takes off and these

supermodels became celebrities. The 80¶s also see¶s a rise in the number of women

completing college degrees ³ n 1986, over half of college graduates are women ± but

they are not stopping there. ëomen are earning over half of the master¶s degrees, and

more and more of them are entering professions such as law, medicine and business. n

1986, women earned 30 percent of first professional degrees, up from 15 percent just 10

c
years

earlier.´Jhttp://school.discoveryeducation.com/schooladventures/womenofthecentury/de

cadebydecade/1980s.html)

In 1990 the World Wide Web is created which takes the world by storm and the idea of

globalization brings the world much closer. Women also continue to advance in society

during the 1990¶s. In 1994 the Violent Acts Against Women act is passed giving women

greater protection against domestic violence. In 1997 Madeleine Albright is appointed

secretary of state this being a historical first for women and reinforced to the female

population that women too have power. By the end of the decade more than 60% of

women are in the workforce. Grunge music with bands like Nirvana was popular and

grunge fashion came out of that. Sub cultures grew again out of the earlier punk music

and earlier rap. ³Emo¶ and hip hop music became popular sparking two very different

trends in fashion. Emo groups are characterized by black clothing, black hair and

piercings, hip hop devotees are characterized by baggy clothes, low riding jeans and the

females by the skimpy outfits that were seen in music videos. Many critics have

suggested that the portrayal of women in hip hop music videos has sent the women¶s

movement backwards because of the objectification of women and the overt sexual

nature of the relationship between men and women. Clueless J1996) was a film, which

popularized the idea of preppy fashion, cute t-shirts, neat attire, a return to wholesome

dressing as was seen in the 50¶s. The 90¶s were quite eclectic in terms of fashion trends

and this idea continues today. It could be said that the digital realm has meant that people

may feel freer to express who they are in terms of appearance because of the lack of need

to define who you are through face to face contact.

c
Into the new millennium and fashion is mixing trends from the past and making them

new. We can see sparkles and plaid, grunge clothing and preppy outfits alongside high

fashion from Paris. Celebrity culture dominates with actors and actresses gracing

magazine covers and the public devours what they are wearing. The major change to

fashion has been the rise of cheap manufacturing in places like China, which means that

designer knockoffs are readily available. People can shop online, they no longer need to

physically shop and they can shop all over the world. Hillary Clinton has paved the way

for women in politics and she has shown that they can have it all. Women now don¶t have

to be everything; they have choice about their future and about what they wear. They do

not have to be dictated to anymore.

c
 Bibliography

Books
Mulvagh, Jane.c& Vogue (London, England) 1988 Vogue history of 20th century fashion /
Jane Mulvagh; with a foreword by Valerie D. Mendes Viking, London; New York, N.Y.

Baker, Patricia, 1995Fashions of Decades the 1950 s; London, B.T Batsford

Steele, Valerie, 2010 The Berg Companion to Fashion; Berg Publishers

Pendergast, Sara and Tom, 2004 The Gale Encyclopedia of Fashion, Costume and
Culture, Volume 5; Thomson Gale

Websites

http://www.asuitthatfits.com/shop/index.php?option=com_myblog&task=ta
g&category=80s+suits&Itemid=370

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vivienne_Westwood

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Studio_54

Jhttp://www.marcdolls.ch/engbarbie19592009.html

Jhttp://www.boredpanda.com/women-at-work-1940s/

http://j-walk.com/other/goodwife/images/goodwifeguide.gif

http://www.heartless-bitches.com/rants/goodwife.shtml#1995

c
 Abstract

This essay aims to show the reader how fashion, media and music have
pathed the way for advancing women¶s role within society. This essay
evaluates the changes, which occurred within society over the past 50 years.
It aims to show how music impacted the cultural shifts and how the nation
reacted to these changes.

c
 Women and Fashion
Over the Last 50
Years
By Ashleigh Wood
Laguardia Community College