Luscious Body Butter Recipe

Luscious body butter recipe
This rich body butter is particularly suited to dry skin and chapped, cracked hands and feet.
Yield: 500 grams
Ingredients
100g shea butter

75g virgin coconut oil
50g cocoa butter
50g mango butter
50g macadamia oil
35g avocado oil
35g jojoba oil
35g rice bran oil
35g sweet almond oil
35g macwax
6 drops rosemary oleoresin extract (optional)
Procedure:
Measure out all ingredients into a stainless steel or heat resistant glass container.
Place the container in a pot half full of hot water, and heat on the stove until all the ingredients are melted.
(Optional) Cool down to around 50ºC / 122º F before adding the desired essential oil blend.
Pour the body butter into your prepared storage containers.
Anne's Apricot & Almond Soap

36oz Olive Oil (pomace)
22.5oz Coconut Oil
13.5oz Palm Oil
15oz Distilled Water
10.5oz Sodium Hydroxide
At trace I added:
15ml Apricot Kernel Oil

15ml Apricot Liquid Extract
175g Ground Almonds
15ml Annatto Colour
You will need a glass or ceramic mixing bowl of medium size. A wooden spoon... stainless steel will do in a
pinch. Under no circumstances should aluminum be used for anything in this process. Lye dissolves aluminum.
You need a measuring cup. That's it for hardware.The only other thing needed is a mold. A Pyrex dish will be
fine.
1. Measure 4 oz. lukewarm water into the Pyrex measuring cup. You need to use something that can take the
sudden heat. Carefully add 2 tablespoons of lye. Stir. Let sit.
2. Heat about half a pound of the lard (8 oz.) until liquid. Pour into mixing bowl.
3. Let both cool down before they are mixed to about body temp. Check the lye by feeling the OUTSIDE of the
Pyrex cup.
4. When they have cooled, slowly add the lye to lard and stir constantly until step 5.
5. When the goop has reached the consistency of sour cream keep stirring until it does this. add any colors (food
coloring ok) or perfumes, spices, orwhatever. Then pour into your mold.
6. Cover with a towel and let sit for 24 hours.
7. Uncover after 24 hours and unmold on the 2nd or 3rd day. Let the soap sit or cure for 3-4 weeks.
I did this and as long as you keep the stirring up until the sour cream consistancy, it will turn out!
OTHER STUFF TO DO WITH THE GOOP
Butter soap - Good for the skin instead of lard use butter
Castille soap - Replace 3/4 the lard with 6oz. olive oil
Rose soap - Use rose water, not tap and throw in a handful of dried petals
Orange soap - Grate an orange peel and throw in a tablespoon or two
Cinnamon soap - One tablespoon ground cinnamon
if your interested in French milled soap, take the basic recipe (no spices or scents) and let it cure. Grate it with a
food grater and measure 1 part water to 2 parts soap and melt in cooking pan over low heat. Stir slowly o as not
to make a lather. When all the soap melts, mould into forms (candy forms, egg holders, be creative). Cool for
half an hour and pop out of moulds. Let sit for 2 weeks, It makes a great soap, with good detail in the mould.
You can also add essence oils, rose water, spices and the like just before you take it off the heat. Experiment,
have fun! Try a half cup of oat meal and milk instead of water, or cornmeal and witchhazel (talk about a skin
cleanser!), Aloe and Lanolin, all things from the drug store. Add three parts water to 1 soap and you get liquid
soap. The best thing of these is that there is only what you put in. I have a nurse friend who is allergic to most
soaps, but has no problem with these.
Although, by definition, every soap is made by the saponification (chemical combination) of lye, water, and fat,
one soap will differ from the next depending on the kind of fat, the kind of lye, and how much of each is used.
Traditionally, soapmaking for the year was done in Autumn, when the annual butchering of animals took place
and fat was available. Lye was produced by filling a hkopper with hardwood ashes, and running water through
the ashes. Once this was done, the water was sent through again, until it would float an egg. If the egg sank to
the bottom, it was too weak. If it floated at the top, it was too strong. If it floated in suspension, in the middle, it
was just right.
Ingredients for soap are
fat - any kind of pure animal or vegetable fat, from reclaimed kitchen
grease to castor oil; tallow, lard, olive oil, crisco vegetable shortning, etc.
lye - Available in many supermarkets or hardware stores in dry crystal -sodium hydroxide. Clean rainwater is
nice. Add some borax if in a hard water area.
Recipie for single bar experimentation

1/2 cup cold soft water
2 heaping tbsp. commercial lye
1 cup melted beef tallow
Gloves (unless you want to live dangerously and risk a lye burn...)
Slowly add the lye to the water, then bring both lye solution and tallow to about body temperature. Do not touch
the lye water - it will burn. In fact, be very careful with the lye.
Combine lye water and tallow in a glass bowl and mix slowly and steadily with an egg beater (I use a fork with
the small quantities) until the consistency is that of sour cream. Pour mixture into mold and age according to
standard procedure - i.e. remove soap from mold after 24 hours, leave in the open for 2-3 weeks, turning over
daily. If it stays too soft after a couple of days, then place it over low heat until it melts, and then stir until ready
to pour into molds.
A standard batch recipe calls for on 13 oz can of commerical lye, 2 ½ pints of water, and 6 pounds of fat. about
9 punds of soap result, enough to make 36 bars of toilet soap.
Adding the lye to the water will generate temperatures in excess of 200 F, so plan on enough time for it to cool.
If adding a scent, don't add the oil until just before molding. Or make an infusion, strain, and use that instead of
plain water. Don't use alchohal based scents - it can interfere with saponification. Use the single bar recipie and
experiment with different fats, scents, and additives. I haven't bought commercial soap in years - I'd rather make
my own!!
Have fun, and if anyone has any questions, I'll be happy to answer them to my best ability. If anyone else has a
different one bar recipie, I'd love to have it.
Soap Making Instructions

COURTESY OF: Melody Upham
Equipment
Stainless steel or plastic container for mixing soap
Pan for heating oils
Stainless steel or heat-resistant (212 deg. F) plastic container for mixing lye solution
Rubber spatulas for stirring soap and lye solution
Stainless steel 'quick read' thermometers (range of at least 90-200 deg. F) to measure temperature of lye solution
and oils
Goggles
Rubber gloves
Scale for weighing oils, lye and water
Molds for soap (Tupperware, shoeboxes, envelope boxes, etc.)
Plastic film (saran wrap, poly garbage bags, etc.)
NEVER USE ALUMINUM CONTAINERS! (They react with lye)
Step 1: Make sure all your equipment is set out and ready to use. If using plastic molds, there is no need to line
them or spray them with anything as the soap will release easily. If using wooden or cardboard molds, line them
with plastic garbage bags which have been cut open to lie flat. Spraying the inside of the wooden mold with Pam
will help the garbage bag to adhere to the mold, eliminating most of the wrinkles. Plastic bags can be stapled to
the upper edge of the cardboard molds once the plastic has been spread up the sides of the box.
Step 2: Weigh base oils and put in pan for heating. Weigh out essential oils, dried herbs and/or coloring if using
and put aside.
Step 3: Observe all safety precautions when using lye. Measure water into heat-resistant container. In a well
vented area measure lye into a separate container and then slowly pour it into the water, stirring gently until the
lye dissolves. Put lye solution aside and let the temperature cool down to the appropriate temperature. While lye
solution is cooling, heat the base oils to the correct temperature. Oils heat quickly so when you are within 5-10
degrees of the appropriate temperature, turn the heat off and remove the pan from the burner. If oils cool too
much, a minute or so on the heat will bring them back to the correct temperature. If lye solution becomes too
cool, it can be reheated by placing the container inside another container filled with hot water.
Step 4: When oils and lye solution have reached the correct temperature (90 deg. F if pouring into one mold or
110 deg. F if pouring into individual molds), pour the oils into the soapmaking bowl. While gently stirring the oils
with the spatula, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils. Stir continuously, occasionally scraping around the
sides of the bowl, until soap traces. The time will vary depending on the types of oils and stirring method you use.
To test whether the soap is tracing, drizzle a small amount of soap from the spoon onto the top of the soap in the
bowl. If the drizzled soap leaves a faint pattern, then the soap is tracing.
Step 5: Add essential oils, herbs and/or pigments when soap has just begun to trace. Continue stirring until well
blended.
Step 6: Pour into prepared mold and cover. Soap should be well insulated for the first 24 hours. This can be
accomplished by placing the mold on an insulated surface (blanket, towels, Styrofoam, etc.) and then insulating
the top by laying a piece of plastic wrap over the soap and then covering with another piece of insulating material.
Let soap sit undisturbed for 24 hours or until it cools. Soap should be somewhat firm with no excess fluids
pooling in the mold.
Step 7: Remove soap from molds and cut into bars. Place on shelf to cure for 3-4 weeks.
Safety Precautions: Lye is a highly caustic chemical. When working with lye, always wear eye protection and
rubber gloves. Clothing should consist of long sleeves, long pants and shoes. If lye solution (or dry form) comes
into contact with skin, flush the affected area immediately with vinegar and then wash the skin well with
detergent and water. The presence of lye on the skin can usually be detected as a slick feeling on the skin.
Aluminum should never come in contact with lye, it will quickly be destroyed. This means NO aluminum pans,
foil, or utensils. Containers used for mixing lye solutions should be clearly marked as "Poison" and kept out of the
reach of children and animals. These containers should not be used for any other purpose. Children and animals
should be removed from the general soapmaking vicinity. When measuring out lye or stirring the solution, care
should be taken to avoid breathing the dust or fumes created by the lye. Always work in a well ventilated area.
Rebatching
COURTESY OF: Lisa Lisa, the Mad Soaper
Note: Some erroneously call rebatching 'handmilled soap', which is a different process entirely.
The water I used for my 'perfect rebatch' had been sitting in my refrigerator for several days. Use 16 ounces of
grated soap to 12 ounces (or less, depending on how fine the grind is) of water. The water should be softened
water. I've used it both boiling hot and room temperature. I do NOT use cold water for rebatches. The finer the
grind of your soap, the less water you'll require to make that gloppy mess. The only time I got what looked like
freshly made soap was when I used 1) room temp water, 2) a new double boiler and 3) a fragrance oil from the
Body Shop. That batch was gloppy until I added the fragrance oil. IMMEDIATELY after I added the FO, it
smoothed out into the nicest looking rebatch I've ever had.
1. Grate your soap as finely as you can. I use a food processor, but grating by hand is acceptable!
2. Fill the bottom pan with water and start it heating up. The level of the water in the bottom pan should be
sufficient to contact the bottom of the top pan, yet not boil over when the two are stacked together. The bottom
pan should be kept to a slight/slow boil.
3. Put the grated soap into the top pan and stack it onto the bottom pan. Add some of the hot water to the soap,
stirring while you add. This step should remind you of adding the lye to the oils when making a regular batch of
soap. You can pour the water a bit faster than pouring the lye, though. What you're looking for in this step is
when you get the dry soap completely wet. If you make brownies, then you know when to stop! ::grin:: Once all
the dry pieces of soap have become moistened with the water, stop adding the water and stir the soap.
4. This is the hardest/easiest part. I stir the soap for a few minutes, making sure the bottom doesn't scorch. Put lid
on the top pot and let it go for a few minutes...say, the amount of time between commercial breaks while
watching a TV show.. Continue for one hour. At some point during this hour, the soap will smooth out almost
completely.
5. When it seems that the soap will melt no further (i.e., you've stirred through a couple of commercial breaks
with no apparent change to the texture of the soap), add whatever nutrients you want to add, such as color, scent,
Vitamin E, etc.
6. Stir the nutrients into the melted soap thoroughly. Depending on what you add, you may get to a completely
liquid stage at this point. Fear not...it's happened before! Let it cook a little longer, repeating the "commercial
break" routine. Another note: when using a lid (which is advisable!), always stir the condensed water from the lid
back into the soap.
7. When it seems that you've achieved a trace, if you got a liquid soap here, turn off the heat, remove the top pot
from the bottom one and let the soap cool off a bit. If you didn't achieve a liquidy soap, don't worry. If your soap
seized when you added the nutrients, you can either add more water and continue to cook a bit or go ahead and
push it into a mold.
8. If you want floating soap for sure, use a stainless steel handmixer and whip the daylights out of the rebatched
soap. You want to almost achieve a whipped cream consistency. Perhaps you should achieve it, but I suppose I
don't have the patience to wait for it....never having made whipped cream by hand before!
9. Once soap has cooled off, no matter the consistency, if not poured it into a mold yet, do so now. During this
whole process, sides of bowl should have been scraped while stirring, so that whatever was on the sides of the pan
was also incorporated into the rebatch. If so, you can scrape the soap off the sides of the pan and into the mold. If
not, try to avoid anything that doesn't look like the rest of the batch, since it won't be fully incorporated.
10. Cover mold and put it somewhere draft-free and insulated for the night. Treat it just like new soap. The next
day, put it in the freezer for several hours before unmolding; freezing is necessary for this soap.
11. Remove frozen soap from mold, let it thaw completely before cutting. Let rebatched soap cure for three
weeks.
Hot Process Soap

COURTESY OF: Lynn Watts, BayFrame House Herbal Soaps
I make my soap using a hot-process method, an adapted method I use, and I've never had a batch separate or fail. I
got the information for hot process or 'cooking soap' from a web site for old-timey methods of doing things.
These instructions assume you already know how to handle lye and calculate the amount of lye to use for your
recipe. You can use your usual recipe and just finish the soap by using this method.
EQUIPMENT: Tall enamel pan or other narrow, tall soaping pot (not aluminum) Candlemaking thermometer or
other thermometer to 400 degree F. range Tall plastic spoon rated to temperature above 330 degrees F. Large
rectangular plastic container with lid Wax paper or non-melting plastic wrap Long bladed non-serrated knife
MAKING SOAP: I use an enamel pan (very tall) and put the fat into it and melt it, then turn off the heat. Then I
mix the water/lye in a plastic container and let both cool to between 90-100 degrees. If the oil is already liquid
(like olive oil) I heat it to about 90 degrees and mix the water/lye with it. I add the lye/water to the fat in the
enamel pan slowly, stirring briskly. I follow whatever the recipe says about how long to achieve a trace.
COOKING THE SOAP: After it traces, I turn on the heat and slowly raise the temperature (using a candlemaking
thermometer that goes up to 400 degrees) to between 250F and 330F degrees, stirring the whole time. I turn on
the overhead fan to disperse the heat. The temperature range depends on the type of oil used. Olive oil wants to go
all the way to 330F, while coconut/palm/olive oil blends don't need to go so high, somewhere between 250-270F.
I keep it in my enamel pot to "cook" the water out of the soap and accelerate the saponification process. I stir
pretty continuously, and leave a the thermometer in the mixture to monitor how it's doing.
A water-based mixture will not go above 220 degrees (that's why double-boilers won't burn things), but as the
water evaporates, the fats that are left get hotter. The oil will actually boil. At some point little soapettes will start
forming, so I know I'm getting close. Looks like grits on the spoon. Before it hits the wall and becomes too thick,
I put the pot in a sink full of cold water to cool down. When you see the bubbles starting to come up through the
soap at about the same place all the time (like making custard), it's time to stop. The water evaporates, the
lye/water and fat traces and saponifies, and within an hour or so I have some VERY HOT soap. It's like cooking a
recipe for food, you can "tell" when it's ready. As long as it's gotten above 220 degrees you've gotten past the
boiling point of water and the water will have become steam and be gone. Different oils react differently - olive
oil likes a higher temperature than coconut/palm, for instance.
SAFETY: Remember, though, to be CAREFUL. At first you're working with a caustic mixture that you're raising
to a high temperature. By the time it reaches 250 degrees, it's usually not caustic any more, but it is VERY
HOT!!! Don't let it bubble up on you, or spill it on yourself while it's still very hot. I have accidentally spilled the
cooled-down mixture on myself while filling the molds, and it does not have lye in it any more, it cools down to
just pure white soap. But even without the active lye, at over 220F it is hot enough to burn you if you are careless.
BE CAREFUL and don't burn yourself.
BLENDER METHOD: I tried an experiment once and ladled some out into the blender at 220 degrees and it
traced and made soap immediately. Poured that batch directly into my small molds, let sit 24 hours and unmolded.
It was wonderful.
COOLING THE SOAP: I keep stirring while the soap cools back down. To speed up the cooling process, you
should put the pot into a sink nearly full of cold water (doesn't have to be ice water). Otherwise, it will keep
cooking from its own internal heat. As it cools, it will thicken up and make an almost-finished basic soap before it
goes into the mold. Even with olive oil as the fat, I've never had a problem getting it to thicken up.
FINISHING THE SOAP: The cooked method removes the extra water. When it's cooled down to around 100F, I
add any essential oils or fragrance oils and pour into a giant rectangular Rubbermaid container. I squish it down
(with gloves, just in case) to remove any air bubbles or gaps, and after I put plastic wrap or wax paper right on top
of the soap I squish it down some more. Leave it for 24 hours, then score rectangles with a knife. Next day or two
I dump it out, break apart on the score lines, and there it is. FINISHED BASIC SOAP.
CURING THE SOAP: I've never had separation, lye pockets, curdling or other problems. I've also never had soda
ash on my soap. I don't wrap the soap to keep it warm, I just stick it under the sink. I have "hot processed" with
just veggie oil (olive, palm, coconut, safflower, canola, sunflower), olive oil and lard, and just lard using this
method, and all the soap came out very white and hard. After unmolding and cutting, it needs to cure for 2-3
weeks to get hard and finish firming before using it. But if you get impatient to try it, you can try it a little earlier
to test the lathering and scent. I almost always do!
My measures are pretty exact and are intended to have very close to 5% excess fat/oil when the saponification process is done. You can increase th
percentage a bit as you decrease the lye in small increments (even increments as small as 1/100th of an ounce).
All Tallow Test Bar
8 ounces tallow (measured when solid)
3 fluid ounces water (distilled or filtered)
1.07 ounces sodium hydroxide (by weight)
All Lard Test Bar

8 ounces lard (by weight)
All Canola Oil Test Bar
8 ounces canola oil (by weight)
All Peanut Oil Test Bar
8 ounces peanut oil (by weight; I use blended, not extra virgin)
1.03 ounces sodium hyrdroxide (by weight)
All Safflower Oil Test Bar
8 ounces safflower oil (by weight; I use blended, not extra virgin)
All Olive Oil Test Bar
8 ounces olive oil (by weight; I use blended or pomace,not extra virgin olive oil)
Olive, Coconut, & Palm Oil Test Bar
4 ounces olive oil (by weight)
2 ounces coconut oil (by weight)
2 ounces palm oil (by weight)
from "The Soap Book" by Sandy Maine,
The recipe in the book calls for:

24 ounces olive oil
24 ounces cocoanut oil
38 ounces of Crisco
12 oz. sodium hydroxide (lye)
32 ounces rain, spring, distilled or tap water (I use distilled)
4 oz. essential oil (I combined cinnamon and cloves)
To Make A Basic Soap--
Soap making is very simple, but it can be tricky if you do not have the
proper equipment or know a few easy tricks to make it all come together.
One of the most important rules is to be EXTREMELY careful when working with
lye (sodium hydroxide). Is is very caustic and toxic! DO NOT, under any
circumstances, handle lye, the lye solution, or the soap until it has cured
for at least two weeks without protective rubber gloves. IT WILL BURN YOU!
It will also eat right through aluminum, so only use stainless steel or
enamel pots and plastic containers.
Equipment:
Kitchen scale
8 quart pot
2 quart plastic pitchers (2 of them--mark one "LYE ONLY")
Long-handled wooden, stainless steel, or plastic spoon
2 kitchen (candy) thermometers (as low as 100 degrees)
Safety glasses or goggles
Rubber gloves
Wooden or stainless steel ladle

Sharp knife
Large, clear plastic container with lid (those plastic storage boxes are
perfect) or two or three smaller ones (for easier storage and handling)
Old blanket or towel (wool is best)
Drying rack covered with plastic canvas
1. Wearing gloves, carefully pour lye into plastic pitcher marked "LYE
ONLY".
2. Carefully add water, being sure not to splash. This solution will
heat up to more than 200 degrees, so be extremely careful. Stir with spoon
to make sure all lye has dissolved COMPLETELY.
[NOTE - This may be dangerously in error. This is the comment that was
sent to me by email from Nora Siri Bock, SCAdianly Siri bint Saadia,
<heathentart at visto.com>:
"This is absolutely WRONG...you must always add the lye to
the WATER, not the water to the lye. Pouring water on lye
can, at the least, splash and burn, and at the worst,
create a volcano effect. You must sprinkle the lye flakes
or pellets slowly onto the ice-cold water and stir
constantly to avoid clumping.
I've heard too many horror stories about new soapers adding
water to lye and being badly burned." - Stefan 6/20/00.]
3. Combine fats/oils in sauce pan and melt thoroughly.
4. Now this is the hard part--get the lye solution and the fats to
reach the between 90 and 100 degrees (within 5 degrees of each other) at the
same time. You may begin by putting the lye solution container into a cold
water bath before you begin heating the fats. When the lye reaches around
150 degrees, about what solid fats will reach when fully melted, you can
begin rotating the lye solution and the fats in cold and hot baths to get
them to reach the same temperature between 90 and 100 degrees. This may
take a little practice, but you can heat them up and cool them down as
needed until you get it right. Don't panic if it takes a while. You'll get
the hang of it. Remember, they MUST be within 5 degrees of each other to
mix properly.
5. When they are between 90 and 100 degrees and 5 degrees of each
other, CAREFULLY pour the lye solution into the fats/oils. You will
instantly see the change. It will become opaque and grainy.
6. Stir continually and gently until you see what is called "tracings
or trailings". These appear when the mixture has cooled sufficiently to be
poured into your mold and leave ripples and trails that keep their shape for
a moment before smoothing out into the mixture. Some soaps with lots of
oils don't show their tracings easily. You will have to guess when you
think the mixture is cool enough to pour. These appear as, rather than
ripples, but as faint trails of transparent and opaque mixture. Don't
mistake a pour mixture for tracings!!! Be sure to stir for at least one half
hour before you give up on the tracings. Sometimes it may be as long as an
hour and a half before tracings show up, but if you stir for longer than
that, you probably missed the signs and the mixture is ready to pour.
7. Using the large plastic container, or the smaller ones, pour the
thickened soap mixture into them, being very careful not to splash. You
should always be wearing your protective gear.
8. Cover with lids and blankets so not to have the mixture cool too
quickly. It must cool evenly and slowly to cure properly.
9. Let sit undisturbed for at least 12 hours, then take a peak through
the clear plastic container. Some soaps, such as those with a high oil
content may develope a thin layer of oil on top of the opaque mixture.
Using your spoon, stir this back into the mixture every 12 hours until it no
longer forms. It may take a few days, but it will finally thicken enough to
keep the oils from separating. Once this has happened, allow the mixture to
cure for 48 hours and check for fingertip (wearing gloves!) hardness--you
will see the impression of your fingerprint, but it will be firm enough to
pop out of the mold to continue curing. If it is too soft, it will stick to
your mold and not release easily, so if it sticks a lot, give it another day.
10. Pop the soap out of the mold and set in dry place on the plastic
canvas cooling rack. Allow it to cure at least 7 days and cut into bars (3
1/2 by 4 1/2 inches or so). These are ready for hand milling or let sit for
another 7 days if you desire them to remain in basic soap form. More on
hand milling later.
Recipes--
Castile or Olive Oil Soap:
52 ounces olive oil
7 ounces lye (you can pick this up at your local grocer near the Drano and
plumbing products--I use the brand called Red Devil. Be sure it says 100%
Pure Lye on the container)
20 ounces cold water (always use cold water since the lye solution will
reach upwards of 200 degrees)
Remember, you will need to stir the soap after pouring into the mold for as
much as three days to completely set the oils into the soap.
Castile soap, or olive oil soap, has been known in ancient Rome. There is
documentation of olive oil based soap used in soaps during the Middle Ages.
It is my firm belief that the above recipe is very much like the ancient
recipes, since it does not include extra additives or ingredients that would
not have been known during that period. I am doing further research to
verify my claims.
Tallow or Grandma's Soap:
106 ounces rendered fat (tallow) or vegetable shortning (this is not
period, but a suitable replacement for those who do not wish to use animal fats)
14 ounces lye (local grocer in plumbing section--100% Pure Lye only!)
41 ounces cold water (remember to always use cold water)
This recipe does not require stirring after being poured into molds. Some
soap makers substitute the tallow or shortning for a 2:1 ratio of vegetable
shortning or tallow and olive oil mixture.
This basic soap is, in fact, so basic that it is hard to believe it would
have changed from ancient times. Therefore, it is my firm belief that this
is very much a recipe used during the Middle Ages. I am doing further
research to verify my claims. The tallow will make a off-white colored
soap, while the shortning will make a white soap.
Making Your Own Lye--
For those of you brave enough to try to make your own lye by leaching water
through wood ash, here's what you do:
Put hard wood ashes in a wooden bucket with holes drilled through the
bottom. Pour water over the ashes and let it drip into a pottery or plastic
container. This can take as long as a week. Try to float an egg in the
solution, so that only about the size of a dime of the egg remains unsunk.
Pour the solution back through the ash until this happens. It may take
several times before you get the lye the right strenght, and only then is it
a hit and miss situation. Too often you may end up with soft soap rather
than hard bars. Patience is the virtue here.
To use the leached lye solution, use this recipe with your fats/oils:
2 quarts water
4 pounds fats or oils as per above recipes
Cook water and fats until all chunks are eaten up or dissolved. Pour in 1
pint cold lye solution and keep on heat until it coagulates, turn off heat.
Stir occasionally unti water and thickened part mix completely. Takes only
a few minutes. Pour into molds as per recipes above.
Remember, this recipe is very crude and will create many problems and errors
even when you do everything right. There are far too many variences in the
leached lye to expect a perfect batch the first few hundred times you try
it. Practice will create more perfect batches as will patience and
endurance. You will definitely get an idea of how the peasants did it. For
nearly perfect batches nearly all the time, use the 100% pure lye you can
purchase at your local grocer. It is stable and of the same composition at
all times, so your margin for error is extremely limited.
Now for the fun stuff, Hand Milled Soap--

Hand milling is not necessarily a period practice. It may have very well
developed in the later Renaissance, but it does seem to be a more modern
invention. However, it is known that herbs, dyes and fragrances were
sometimes added to soap medievally, so it is best to know the more practical
way of doing so. It is my assumption that additives were added just before
pouring the basic soap into the primary mold. Unfortunately, the caustic
nature of the lye would have destroyed much of the ingredients, especially
the herbs and scents. Luckily, once the bars have cured for about a week,
the lye has neutralized enough for the additives to work nicely with the soap.
Equipment:
Kitchen grater
Blender
Soap molds [use your imagination here if you can't find actual soap
molds--microwave containers, aluminum or plastic gelatin molds (the lye is
neutralized enough now to use the metal molds), candy molds, plastic ice
cream cups, candle molds, individual tart pans, etc.]
Additives (herbs, grains, vegetables, dyes, fragrances, etc.--some recipes
are given below)
1. Grate, using a kitchen grater, 12 ounces of the basic soap from the
above recipes and put into sauce pan.
2. Add 9 ounces of water and begin melting on medium heat. Don't stir
continuously or you'll end up with suds.
3. Gently and periodically until all soap has liquified. Some soaps
are very difficult to liquify and may take up to an hour or more to do so.
If it doesn't after that time, you will have to satisfy yourself with
slightly lumpy soap.

4. When it has liquified, remove from heat and stir gently until it
cools to about 150 degrees. Thicker additives such as oatmeal will need to
be added at higher temperatures or you won't be able to pour it into the
molds.
5. Mix in your additives just before you're ready to pour into the
molds. Thicker mixtures may have to be ladled in. Tap the mold onto hard
surface to break any air pockets that may have formed.
6. Fill as completely as possible without overflowing and allow to film
over. Put mold into freezer (not necessary, but helps in removing from the
mold).
7. Once the soap is frozen solid, pop them out onto plastic canvas
drying rack and leave to cure for at least two weeks. Sometimes longer for
larger molds.
8. Check bars about once a week. If they've warped, turn them over.
Some soaps will not need to be turned.
Hand Milled Additives:
Though these recipes may not be period, they make especially delighful soaps
you enjoy using and giving as gifts. I have chosen my favorites and those
that may be more likely used medievally.
Extra Abrasive Soap--
1/4 cup lemon juice (optional)
1/2 to 3/4 cup clean sand
1/4 to 1/2 cup ground pumice
Substitute the lemon juice for 1/4 cup of the water normally used in hand
milling. Add the sand and pumice and stir until thick. This will sink
unless you stir continuously and until rather thick.
Oatmeal Soap--
3/4 to 1 cup oatmeal
Several drops of cinnamon fragrance (optional)
Grind oats in blender until flakes are about 1/5 their original size. Add
oatmeal to melted soap and water mixture and stir until it is thick enough
to suspend the oatmeal. May have to be spooned into molds and tapped well
to remove bubbles.
Sage Soap--
1 to 2 TBS rubbed sage
Chamomile Soap--
1 cup fresh chopped or dried powdered chamomile flowers
1 tsp powdered ginger
Pale yellow dye (optional)
Several drops of lemon fragrance (optional)
Rosemary Soap--
1 to 2 TBS dried ground rosemary of finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
Several drops of herbal fragrance (optional)

Lavender Soap--
3/4 to 1 cup fresh or dried lavender flowers
Several drops of lavender fragrance
Lavendar of purple dye
Grind lavender in blender until fine.
Milk and Honey Soap--
1/4 cup instant powdered milk
1/4 to 1/2 cup honey
Add instant milk to melted soap and only 6 ounces water mixture, breaking up
any lumps with spoon. Add honey and stir well. You may scorch the mixture
slightly to increase golden color. Stir until fairly thick to keep the
honey from settling to the bottom of molds. Be sure the soap is drying
quickly enough to avoid becoming rancid or mold growing.
Buttermilk or Goat's Milk Soap--
9 ounces buttermilk or goat's milk
2 tsp powdered benzoin (fixitive and preservative)
Several drops of peppermint fragrance
Gradually stir in milk to softened soap (no water this time). When soap has
liquified, add the benzoin and fragrance (without this the soap may have a
slightly sour odor).

Clove Soap--
1/2 to 1 tsp ground cloves
Congradulations! You have now enjoyed making your own soaps! If you have
any questions or run into problems, please feel free to contact me for help.
I'd love to hear about your success stories, too, and some of your own
recipes to add to my collection. Any documentation you may find regarding
medieval soap making is especially appreciated.
Modern Batch Soap Making
The method I used for making soap is completely modern. It is a non-boiled method developed in the 19th
century. The lye is purchased white and pure from the grocery store plumbing section. The fats component
contains a small amount of coconut oil to make it lather, olive oil, and either pure white shortening (which makes
avery white and hard soap) or pure clean white lard (which makes an antique white soap which is slightly shiny
and waxy). The result is a mild pure bar which is a delight to use.
Supplies needed: 2 slotted wooden spoons, large glass jar, long rubber gloves, safety glasses, stainless steel or
enamel pan, thermometer that reads accurately in the 90 to 100 degree range, plastic or glass soap mold with
straight sides and a cover ,plastic wrap, several wool blankets, and a small amount of thin wire. Avoid aluminum
in the soap making process, as the lye will dissolve it.
2 cups cold filtered water

1/2 cup of pure lye
When handling lye, use long rubber gloves and safety glasses. Lye is a vigorous caustic which can do terrific and
permanent damage to eye tissue and cause deep and severe burns to skin.
Put the water in a large glass jar. Slowly add the lye to the water. Stir with a wooden spoon. The mixture will
heat up and may emit some irritating gases. Do not breathe the fumes from the lye! Cool the mixture in a cold
water bath until the mixture is between 90 and 100 degrees.
1/2 cup coconut oil

3 and 1/2 cups fat comprised of olive oil, shortening, lard, or other fats- the greatest part needs to be a solid or
hard fat but the oils can be added for a soft, rich bar.
In the pan, melt the fats over medium heat, stirring and watching carefully. When the hard fats are just about all
melted, remove from heat. Cool until between 90 and 100 degrees.
When testing the temperature of either mixture, first stir completely as they can stratify.
Grease the soap mold very thickly with a solid fat. You may want to line the mold with plastic or special soap
makers' parchment so that the soap comes out to the mold cleanly. It is not necessary, though.
When the two mixtures are within 5 degrees of the same temperature, wearing your gloves and glasses, slowly
pour the lye into the oils stirring carefully.The oil should immediately start to get cloudy and opaque. Stir for at
least five minutes or until the soap starts to thicken and "trace". To determine if the soap is "tracing", drizzle a
stream of soap over the surface with the stirring spoon. If the stream leaves a trace of it's passing on the surface
of the soap, it is done. The amount of time you need to stir will vary. It may vary from batch to batch using the
same exact recipe! It will eventually, just keep stirring until it does.
After the soap traces, then add essential oils, herbs, or grains. I generally add a tablespoon or a little more of
essential oils to one batch. I add 1/4 cup of finely ground herbs or 1/2 cup of finely ground oatmeal. Work
quickly as the soap is in the process of setting up. Oatmeal seems to really accelerate the process. Mix very well
and quickly pour into the prepared mold. You may cover with more plastic wrap and smooth the surface with
your hands, or just smooth it with the spoon back.
Cover the soap and put in a nest of wool blankets to cure for around 18 hours. It make take longer or shorter.
Batch soap making is not an exact science! When is has set up and is somewhat firm, it is ready to turn out and
cut.
I turn the soap out onto a flattened plastic grocery bag. The mess after cutting can just go into the trash. The soap
is still extremely caustic so wear gloves and safety glasses when handling. I cut the large lump of soap into bars
with wire. It is messy, but if pieces flake off, you can push them together. I then smooth the sides with my
hands. You can also form the soap into balls, or form a soap ball around a knot in the bottom of a loop of ribbon
or rope for a "soapball on a rope".
Put the soap bars onto glass or plastic to air cure for at least 2 weeks. Turn them at least once at the mid-point.
The soap will become harder and harder and change color slightly. The soap should end up around pH 8 which is
fine for skin.
Basic Soapmaking Instructions
Equipment (Prepare all prior to soapmaking)
Stainless steel or plastic container for mixing soap

Pan for heating oils
Stainless steel or heat-resistant (212 deg. F) plastic container for mixing lye solution
Rubber spatulas for stirring soap and lye solution
Stainless steel "quick read" thermometers (range of at least 90-200 deg. F) to measure temperature of lye
solution and oils
Goggles
Rubber gloves
Scale for weighing oils, lye and water
Molds for soap (Tupperware, shoeboxes, envelope boxes, etc.)
Plastic film (saran wrap, poly garbage bags, etc.)
7 Steps to Soapmaking
Step 1: If using wooden or cardboard molds, line them with plastic garbage bags which have been cut open to lie
flat. Plastic bags can be stapled to the upper edge of the cardboard molds once the plastic has been spread up the
sides of the box. Spraying the inside of the wooden mold with Pam will help the garbage bag to adhere to the
mold, eliminating most of the wrinkles. Plastic molds do not need lining or spray as soap will release easily.
Step 2: Weigh base oils and put in pan for heating. Weigh out essential oils, dried herbs and/or coloring if using
and put aside.
Step 3: Observe all safety precautions when using lye. Measure water into heat-resistant container. In a well
vented area measure lye into a separate container and then slowly pour it into the water, stirring gently until the
lye dissolves. Put lye solution aside and let the temperature cool down to the appropriate temperature. While lye
solution is cooling, heat the base oils to the correct temperature. Oils heat quickly so when you are within 5-10
degrees of the appropriate temperature, turn the heat off and remove the pan from the burner. If oils cool too
much, a minute or so on the heat will bring them back to the correct temperature. If lye solution becomes too
cool, it can be reheated by placing the container inside another container filled with hot water.
Step 4: When oils and lye solution have reached the correct temperature (90 deg. F if pouring into one mold or
110 deg. F if pouring into individual molds), pour the oils into the soapmaking bowl. While gently stirring the oils
with the spatula, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils. Stir continuously, occasionally scraping around the
sides of the bowl, until soap traces. The time will vary depending on the types of oils and stirring method you use.
To test whether the soap is tracing, drizzle a small amount of soap from the spoon onto the top of the soap in the
bowl. If the drizzled soap leaves a faint pattern, then the soap is tracing.
Step 5: Add essential oils, herbs and/or pigments when soap has just begun to trace. Continue stirring until well
blended.
Step 6: Pour into prepared mold and cover. Insulate for first 24 hours by placing mold on an insulated surface
(blanket, towels, Styrofoam, etc.), lay a piece of plastic wrap over soap; cover with another piece of insulating
material. Let soap sit undisturbed for 24 hours or until cool. Soap should be somewhat firm with no excess fluids
pooling in the mold.
Step 7: Remove soap from molds and cut into bars. Place on shelf to cure for 3-4 weeks.
Safety Precautions: Lye is a highly caustic chemical. When working with lye, always wear eye protection and
rubber gloves. Clothing should consist of long sleeves, long pants and shoes. If lye solution (or dry form) comes
into contact with skin, flush the affected area immediately with vinegar and then wash the skin well with
detergent and water. The presence of lye on the skin can usually be detected as a slick feeling on the skin.
Aluminum should never come in contact with lye, it will quickly be destroyed. This means NO aluminum pans,
foil, or utensils. Containers used for mixing lye solutions should be clearly marked as "Poison" and kept out of the
reach of children and animals. These containers should not be used for any other purpose. Children and animals
should be removed from the general soapmaking vicinity. When measuring out lye or stirring the solution, care
should be taken to avoid breathing the dust or fumes created by the lye. Always work in a well ventilated area.
NEVER USE ALUMINUM CONTAINERS! (They react with lye.)Return to Step 3.
Baaaasic Goat's Milk

CREATED BY: Rainbow Meadow
We think Goats' Milk makes the mildest bar of all. Just remember to watch temperatures carefully, as the milk
will burn and stink, and so will the soap.
Olive Oil 8 Ounces
Coconut Oil, 76 Degree 4.8 Ounces
Palm Oil 3.2 Ounces
Goats Milk 8.5 Ounces
Sodium Hydroxide 2.2 Ounces
Essential Oil 0.7 Ounce
Baby Soap
We've left out the Coconut Oil on this one in order to make a very gentle soap for a baby's tender skin. Excellent
for people of all ages with extremely sensitive skin.
Olive Oil 11.2 Ounces
Avocado Oil 4.8 Ounces
Distilled Water 6 Ounces
Sodium Hydroxide 2 Ounces
Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil 0.5 Ounce
Roman Chamomile Essential Oil 0.2 Ounce
Castilian Summer
Traditional Castile Soap was a combination of tallow and Olive Oil from Castille, Spain. Over the years, the
recipe has changed to the modern day version -- 100% Olive Oil soap -- which has a creamier lather but is
extremely mild. Grade A or B Olive Oil works best for this soap. The calendula petals add beautiful streaks of
sunny yellow throughout the bar. Note: Use a hand blender or soap will take several days to trace. Soap takes 6
weeks to cure to a hard bar.
Olive Oil 16 Ounces
Sodium Hydroxide 2 Ounces
Dried Calendula Petals 2 Heaping Tablespoons
Health Bar
Our nutritious Health Bar for the skin contains Wheat Germ to rejuvenate skin cells and ground almonds and flax
seed to exfoliate!
Wheat Germ Oil 0.8 Ounce
Palm Oil 3.2 Ounces
Ground Flax Seed 1 Tablespoon
Ground Almonds 1 Tablespoon
Mama's Milk and Mango Madness

A little higher in Coconut Oil than our other recipes because we wanted more lather, but we've superfatted with
Mango Butter and used Goats' Milk to help offset that.
Palm Oil 3.2 Ounces
Mango Butter 3.2 Ounces
Goats Milk 8 Ounces
Heat oils until just barely melted (temp will be about 100 deg. F). Slowly sprinkle Sodium Hydroxide into
refrigerated Goats' Milk and stir until dissolved. Goats' Milk will turn buttery yellow. Immediately stir the
lye/milk solution into the oils. It may look a bit grainy, but this will clear up. Stir until trace; add Essential Oils
and pour into molds.
Shea Loves Me
The addition of Shea Butter creates a gorgeous, emollient bar of soap. While I've chosen the unrefined Shea for
this recipe, it has a nutty scent that may come through in soap. I love it, but you may prefer our refined Shea,
which is scentless. Either way - try this once and you will want to add Shea to all your recipes!
Shea Butter, Unrefined 3.2 Ounces
Palm Oil 3.2 Ounces
Silk Soap
The addition of Silk Fibers and proteins creates a silky, shiny texture to the final bar. Definitely a luxury bar of
soap!
Palm Oil 3.2 Ounces
Macadamia Oil 1.6 Ounces
Loose Silk Fiber 0.012 to 0.25 Ounce
Dissolve the lye in water. Add silk fibers; holding them down in the lye solution, if necessary, until the fibers
become saturated and stay below the surface. Lye should remain hot until the fibers are completely dissolved;
approximately 1 hour. If necessary, pour very hot water into a container that is bigger than the lye container. Set
the container holding the lye solution into this. The heat from the water bath will cause a heat reaction in the lye
solution.After silk is dissolved, allow lye to cool to 95 degrees. While lye is cooling, melt oils and allow to cool to
95 deg. Stir the lye/silk solution into the melted oils and stir to trace. Pour into molds and allow to sit undisturbed
for 24 hours.
Three Kings
Temperatures: 90-95 degrees F for both lye and oils
Olive Oil, Grade A 9.6 Ounces
Shea Butter, Unrefined 3.2 Ounces
Cocoa Butter, deodorized 3.2 Ounces
Palm Kernel Oil 16 Ounces
Water 12 Ounces
Frankincense Essential Oil 0.4 Ounce
Myrrh Essential Oil 0.4 Ounce
Sandalwood Essential Oil 0.4 Ounce
Tropical Breezes
Whip up a tropical blend of Almond, Macadamia, coconut and Palm Oils and scent with a citrus blend for a little
Island vacation right at home!
Sweet Almond Oil 4 Ounces
Macadamia Oil 4 Ounces
Palm Oil 3.2 Ounces
Vegan Delight
A good basic structure for a vegetable-based bar soap, balanced to bring out the best of each oil. Olive is a very
good moisturizer and is good for most skin types. Coconut creates a fluffy, cleansing lather and contributes much
to the hardness of the bar; it is an important link to any bar soap formulation. At higher rates than shown, Coconut
can have a drying effect. Palm stabilizes the lather, and creates a hard bar. Substitute a wide range of carrier oils,
such as Sweet Almond, Apricot or Avocado, or experiment with your own blends, in replacement for all or part of
the Olive Oil.
Olive Oil 8 Ounces
Palm Oil 3.2 Ounces
Citrus gone Nuts Soap

My recipe for a soap that is Good enough to eat is called Citrus gone Nuts. The Citrus Soap cubes are entrapped
in the Nutty Soap. You will salivate as soon as you read the ingredients. Making of this soap was a two day
process. Part 1 was completed on July 24, 2006. Part 2 and final mix was completed on July 25. The second batch
was made on August 13th and 14th respectively because about a third of my cut soaps from the first batch lost too
much weight. I've made a lot of soap before but I always used ornamental moulds and this was my first attempt at
cutting it to size. On top of smelling good-enough-to-eat, this soap also has exfoliating qualities. I hope you will
enjoy using my soap as much as I enjoyed making it.
Ingredients [*]
Part 1: Citrus Soap 7%
400g olive oil

250g coconut oil
150g grapeseed oil
100g corn oil
100g canola oil
300g distilled water
134g lye crystals
1T honey
1T powdered milk
half t of each: lemon, orange blossom, pink grapefruit E.O.
freshly grated peel of 1 of each: orange, lemon, lime, clementine
Combine grated peels with essential oils and set aside. Add honey to water and mix well. Add lye and mix well.
Cool off to 100°F. Combine milk powder with 1-2T of oil and set aside. Heat up the rest of the oils to 100°F. Add
milk mixture and blend well. Slowly add lye/honey solution. Use a stick blender to reach trace (a few minutes).
At trace add peels/E.O.s. Pour the raw soap into a large container or leave in your pot. Insulate with a blanket
overnight. The following day cut it into cubes approximately three quarters of an inch. Set aside.
Part 2: Nutty Soap 10%
400g olive oil
200g coconut oil
100g of each oil: grapeseed, corn, canola, macadamia
300g distilled water
128g lye crystals
1T honey
Spice Mix:
64g coarsely ground almonds
2T oatmeal (grind into flour)
2T Polish cake seasoning Przyprawa Korzenna from Dr. Oetker which includes the following ground items:
sugar, allspice, cloves, caraway seed, coriander, herbal pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon.
1T powdered milk
1t cinnamon leaf E.O.
half t clove bud E.O.
half t cocoa powder (Dutch processed)
one quarter t ground cinnamon
Combine all items in Spice mix. Add all of the macadamia oil and mix well. Set aside for about an hour. Add
honey to water and mix well. Add lye and mix well. Cool off to 100°F. Heat up the rest of the oils to 100°F.
Slowly add lye/honey solution. Use a stick blender to reach trace (a few minutes). At trace add Spice mix. Blend a
few more minutes to make it thick enough to sustain the cubes of Citrus Soap. Once it is thick add the cubes and
mix with a spoon. Scoop the soap mixture into your moulds. Insulate with a blanket overnight. Wait for 1-3 days
before cutting it.
Cathérine's Green Dream Bar
Coconut oil 300 g- 30%

Palm oil 300 g -30%
Olive oil 300 g- 30%
Hemp oil 100 g- 10%
Lye 144 g- 5% superfat

Liquid: 255 g goat milk and 125 g whole cucumber, pureed together and frozen before dissolving the lye *keep
the container in an ice bath (I use a Pyrex cup)
*mix at low temps (max 45 C)
At light trace add:
0.7 oz Rosemary-mint FO
1/8 teaspoon green oxide (to highlight the natural green of the hemp oil)
Do not insulate the molds, as the sugars in the goat milk might overheat and cause separation.
Note: this is one of my very first personal recipes- I am happy to share it with all of you and hope you like it ! All
comments welcome!
NORTH SHORE NATURALS
As September rolled in with the unexpected early chill of winter, I needed something to warm me, both in body
and spirit. What better than a lovely bar of Ginger Blossom soap to soak with in a steaming tub, dreaming of next
summer's warmer days?
Created for Natural Soapmaking (once Soap Naturally) ISS6:

 34.5 oz Olive Oil (grade A)
 27 oz Coconut Oil
 21.5 oz Palm Oil
 10.75 oz Canola Oil (liquid)
 9.25 oz Soybean Oil (should have been Sunflower, but ran out L)
 5.5. oz Mango Butter
 15.25 oz Sodium Hydroxide
 21 oz Purified Water
 30 ml Ginger Essential Oil
 30 ml Bergamot Essential Oil (FCF Free)
 30 ml Grapefruit Essential Oil
 30 ml Lime Essential Oil
 2 Tablespoons Calendula Petals
I would have included a tiny dash of Chromium Green Oxide for a soft green tinge, but at midnight I could not
locate it and told myself that the soap would be "more natural" without it. So this bar should satisfy those purists
who demand a 100% natural bar.
Made with DWCP method with both oils and lye solution at 90 degrees F.
As you can see, I clearly do need those divider molds for evenly cut bars. These truly are hand made!
Dead Sea Mud Bar

The mild exfoliation of the Dead Sea mud makes this a hard working soap for smoothing rough body skin. Allow
the spicy ginger grapefruit essential oil blend to transport you to a Zen like state of bliss.
Base Ingredients
2575 g Coconut oil (30%)

2575 g Olive oil (30%)
1725 g Canola oil (20%)
850 g Cocoa Butter (10%)
430 g Castor oil (5%)
250 g Sunflower oil (3%)
175 g Shea Butter (2%)
10 ml Rosemary Oil extract
1650 g Water (42% lye solution)

1200 g NaOH (7% superfat)
Additive
200 g Dead Sea mud (wet)
Scented with
60 g White Grapefruit essential oil

47 g Ginger essential oil
39 g Bergamot essential oil
4 g Clove essential oil
Method
Proceed with cold process soap method. At light trace, add Dead Sea mud and blend well with stick blender. Stir
in essential oils and pour into mold as usual.
Lemon Poppyseed Soap

The poppy seeds give just the right scrubby exfoliation
500 ml olive oil
500 ml coconut oil
4 kg hydrogenated canola oil
4 c. goats milk, frozen

2 c. H2O, hot (be very careful the lye increases the temp of the water to
dissolve the silk)
640 g. Sodium Hydroxide
20 g. tussah silk fiber, cut into 1/2 inch lengths
Essential oil and additions to be added at trace:

30 ml lemon EO
30 ml lemon verbena EO
15 ml tea tree EO
1/2 c. (125ml) black poppy seeds
Melt the oils together and cool to 105 degrees F.

Put 2 cups of hot water into heat proof glass measuring cup. Add silk fiber, Wearing safety gloves, goggles, etc,
with good ventilation, pour in measured lye. Keep back as lye may splash. Stir to dissolve both lye and silk. Once
lye and silk are fully dissolved place 4 cups of frozen goat milk into cup and stir frequently to lower temperature
to 100F. (Sometimes I have to add an extra 1/2 to 1 cup of water to fully dissolve the silk.
The lye solution must be very hot for the silk to dissolve.)
Proceed as usual for CP soap. Makes approx. 7 kg. soap.
Morning Poppy Delight Soap

 1100gm olive oil
 800gm palm oil
 150gm coconut oil
 150gm avacado oil
 150gm castor oil
 296gm caustic
 742gm rainwater
Added at trace:
 4tspn of ground tumeric spice

 4tbspn of poppy seeds
 50ml of sweet orange pure E O
I combined my lye and oils at 44 degrees celcius and brought to trace then added my EO, tumeric spice and
finally poppy seeds.
I poured by soap into 50mm diameter round pipe about 30cm in length. Covered in gladwrap and insulated with a
towel. I left this for 24hrs.
Umoulded from pipe-mould after 24hrs and cut into about 2.5cm lengths and left to cure.
Oatmeal Cookie Soap
 36 oz. Olive Oil

 4 oz. Castor Oil
 4 oz. Coconut Oil
 6 oz. Sunflower Oil
 2 oz. Cocoa Butter
 6.67 oz. Lye
 10.00 oz. Buttermilk (frozen in 1 oz. Cubes)
 6.72 oz. Distilled Water
 ½ cup finely ground oatmeal
 ½ cup honey
 ½ tsp cinnamon essential oil
 ½ tsp clove bud oil
 2 tsp vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 200 degrees.
1. All oils, lye, buttermilk and water are measured by weight.

2. Place all oils in a 5quart crock-pot. Turn heat on low.
3. Place buttermilk cubes and distilled water in a Rubbermaid pitcher. Place in a bowl of ice in sink. Slowly
pour lye into pitcher while stirring. Stir until lye is dissolved.
4. When all oils are melted, slowly add lye solution.
5. Stir mixture until trace, and then place crock-pot into oven. Turn oven off.
6. Check mixture every 10 to 15 minutes and stir. If the soap mixture seems to be cooling too quickly, turn
the oven back on for 5 minutes and then turn off again. You may need to do this once or twice.
7. After about 45 minutes to 1 hour the lye and oils should be fully saponified. I did the tongue test 2x.
Yuck! The 1st time was a little too early and it DID sting my tongue. The 2nd time it was just soapy.
Thank heavens.
8. Add the oatmeal and honey, then the essential oils and extract. Mix thoroughly.
9. Scoop soap into log mold(s). Bang the mold(s) on a counter or on the floor to eliminate air bubbles.
Gently press top of soap with waxed paper and try to smooth.
10. After 12 to 24 hours, remove soap from mold and slice to desired size.
Soaps that Work in Clay

Base Ingredients
3 oz Rice Bran oil

3 oz Soybean oil
2 oz Coconut oil
2 oz Lard
1 oz Sesame oil
1 oz Emu oil
(total weight 12 oz)
5 oz frozen goat's milk

1.64 oz NaOH [5% superfat ratio]
The above represents 1 batch. I made 4 batches. Each batch will yield 3 bars of soap.
Scented with
5 parts lemongrass essential oil [1-1/4 tsp]

2 parts spearmint essential oil [1/2 tsp]
1 part lemon eucalyptus essential oil [1/4 tsp]
The above is a total of 2 teaspoons. This was then divided into 4 parts for the 4 batches I made.
Additives
1 Tblspn Red Clay

1 Tblspn China Clay
1 Tblspn Sea Clay
1 Tblspn Rose Clay
Mix the above and divide into 4 equal parts. Use one part per batch.
7 drops hydrolyzed silk

0.90oz MSM
Shredded some bars of my Citrus Splash soap, as made for the ISS5 swap (2003)
Method
Add the lye to the goatsmilk. After the milk has totally thawed, add the drops of hydrolyzed silk and the MSM
into the lyemilk mixture. This makes the milk thicker than usual, like a paste. I kept the milk cool by keeping the
bowl in another bowl with cold water in it. Milk stayed white. Put the clay and the essential oils into the base oils
before adding the lyewater.
Soap did not truly trace for me. I stick blended it until it was somewhat thick and just poured it into the molds. I
then stirred the shreds into the raw soap within each soap mold cavities. The shreds are citrusy. After it set up I
put it in the freezer for 24 hours and popped it out of the molds and set on racks to dry.
I really liked this soap. It lathered really nicely and had a gentle scent. Personally I would add more fragrance to
the next batch. I hope you all like this.
Honey Jungle
1st batch:
1.15 ozs. Sweet Almond Oil
3.4 ozs. Coconut Oil
3.4 ozs. Pomace Olive Oil
10.2 ozs. Vegetable Shortening (Crisco or generic)
.9 ozs. Beeswax
2.75 ozs. lye

2 TBSP Powdered Buttermilk mixed with enough ice and water to equal 4.75 ozs.
Melt and mix oils. Add lye mixture and stick blend/stir until trace.
Then add 2 TBSP finely ground Almonds, 1/2 TBSP ground Cinnamon, 1/2 TBSP Honey, .85 ozs. Castor Oil,
1.15 ozs. Shea Butter,and 1.4 ozs. Oatmeal, Milk & Honey fragrance oil.
Pour into a loaf mold (doesn't matter what size). When cured, chop the entire thing up into smallish chunks. Now
make your 2nd batch....
2nd batch
Prepare two loaf molds (interior of mine are 11 3/4" long x 4" wide x 3 1/2" deep)
Have one or two disposable latex gloves handy to slip on
19 ozs. Vegetable Shortening (Crisco or generic)

12 ozs. Pomace Olive Oil
12 ozs. Coconut Oil
6 ozs. lye
9 ozs. ice and water
Melt and mix oils. Add lye mixture. Stick blend/stir until trace. Add 1.5 ozs. Castor Oil, 1.5 ozs. Shea Butter
(Castor & Shea melted together, then add f/o) and 2.5 ozs. Oatmeal, Milk & Honey fragrance oil.
Now you gotta hustle!
Scoop out about a cup and a half and place in a small bowl. Add to this 1 tsp Gold Mica (from MMS) and 1 tsp
Mica Powder (from Bitter Creek). Mix well. It will turn a beautiful golden yellow with teeny tiny sparkles!
To the remaining soap mixture, add ALL of your chunks from your 1st batch. Now slip on the latex gloves.
Spread an inch-deep layer of chunky mixture in each mold. Shouldn't be perfect at all - this adds to the design!)
Now scoop a small handful of the golden mixture and spread it on top of each layer. Add another layer of chunky
to each one, then one more layer of
golden yellow mix, then one final layer of chunky. Try to make this top layer as level as possible so you don't lose
so much when you trim the bars.
Allow to cure and slice up. I like to experiment like this with different colors and additives, never really knowing
what the final product will look like – only that I will always be surprised and I'll never be bored!
Morning Blend (or Morning Sunshine)
 15 oz Olive Oil
 10 oz Palm
 12 oz Shea Butter
 13 oz Castor Oil (set aside 1 oz to mix with clay)
 7 oz Palm Kernal
 4 oz Sweet Almond
 4 oz Jojoba
 1 oz (Palm derived) Steric Acid
 Tocopherol (Natural Vitamin E)
 Calendula Petals 3 tsp
 Chamomile 1tsp (Put in half)
 Paprika 2 tbsp (Put in half)
 I used 10.75 oz of lye for a superfat of 7%
 Distilled Water 21 oz (34%)
 Kaolin Clay 2 tbsp (Use 1oz of the Castor Oil to mix with clay)
Morning Blend Essential Oils
 33 ml Lemon
 25 ml Lemongrass
 18 ml Lime
 15 ml Pink Grapefruit
 12 ml Five Fold Orange
 5 ml Rosemary
Munchy Honey Cakes Soap

 950g olive oil
 450g coconut oil
 200g sunflower oil
 150g cocoa butter
 90g castor oil
 60g beeswax
 264g caustic soda

 570g rainwater
 100g macadamia nut oil

 60g honey
 50g blended oatmeal
Mix the last three ingredients, warm in the microwave to melt honey, add at trace.
8% superfat, INS 145, made on 3/8/06.
Calendula Soap,
Base Ingredients
 700 g Olive oil
 250 g Palm oil
 50 g Cocoa Butter
 300ml Filtered Water [with 2 Tbsp lemon juice]

 136 g NaOH [1% superfatted]
Additives
 2 Tbsp infused calendula oil [extra superfat * added into soap at trace]
 2 Tbsp ground calendula flowers
Scented with
 13 ml Lavender essential oil
 8 ml Clove essential oil
Notes/Method
*The addition of the infused calendula oil, brings the total superfat to 4%.
Calendula flowers are added to caustic when cooled down. They turn the water orange. The soap comes out a
yellow colour with a lovely frosted look. Looks edible. Nice soap. I did not make this soap gel but just placed it in
a nice warm and dry place for 24 hours.
This is a 1kg batch of base oils/fats.
Jaffas Soap
 Coconut 30%
 Olive 30%
 Palm 30%
 Rice bran 10%
 Water 570 gm
 Lye 215 gm
 FD and C orange colour 4 tspns

 Vanilla extract 2 tspns
 Orange EO 30 ml
 Vanilla EO 12 ml
 Cocoa Powder 3 tbspns
Bring to trace. Add essential oils. Remove 1 cup of soap. Add vanilla extract and cocoa powder and blend. Then
blend in orange colour to main mixture and then poor this into a loaf mould (preferably a deeper mould rather
than flat for this effect) then pour/spoon on thick cocoa mixture and blend in lightly using a knife or egg wisk ( I
used a chocolate dipper which is abit like a miniature egg whisk). I didn't gel the mixture but placed it in a chilly
bin over night.
Chocolate Addiction
550 gm olive oil
400 gm grapeseed oil
350 gm palm oil
150 gm cocoa butter
60 gm shea butter
400 gm water
150 gm milk
192 gm lye
12.5 ml Peru Balsam eo
2.5 ml peppermint eo
Dessert spoon of cocoa powder
Method
1. I melted the oils together then left to cool.
2. In a pyrex jug I mixed together distilled water and milk, both straight from the fridge, then slowly added the lye
to it. The milk kind of curdled and turned yellow, but did not burn (well there was no burnt smell).
3. When both mixtures had cooled to about 50ºC I added the lye to the oils and mixed with a stick blender until
light trace was reached.
4. I added the essential oils and mixed in thoroughly.
5. Using a gravy jug I removed some of the soap mixture and blended in the cocoa powder.
6. I poured the remainder of the soap mixture into my log mould, then swirled the cocoa mixture through it.
This is a slight variation on my usual recipe, which does not contain grapeseed oil. Today, however, when I was
preparing the ingredients I realised that I had nowhere near enough olive oil and I wasn't prepared to go to the
supermarket just for that! As a result of the addition of the grapeseed oil I had to recalculate the amount of palm
oil in an effort to make it harder. Let's hope it works.
Background
This soap is one of my favourite soaps because it hardens up really nicely and it feels so smooth when washing
with it. I am also completely addicted to chocolate, the guys at work have learnt to steer clear when I am heard to
say "I need chocolate"! I nearly added white crème de cacao to the mix to make it a triple choc blend, but was
unsure of how the alcohol would react.
Cooking tip: my favourite way to use white crème de cacao is to add a dash to an all milk hot chocolate - it adds a
bit of chocolate oomph!
Ida's Grandmother soap recipe

I use Babbit's lye and I use enamel pans. I don't like iron pans, as the soap gets black where it touches the iron.
1 can of good lye
3 1/2 pints of cold water. Put lye slowly in water and be careful so the fumes don't get in your eyes. Stir often til it
dissolves. Let it stand until it gets cold.
Melt 3 1/2 pints of grease. Never use more than 1/3 of pork grease such as sausage or bacon fat. If you use too
much, it will not form good. When the fat is body warm and the lye is cold, pour the lye slowly into the grease.
Stir slowly for a few minutes; when it begins to get thick, stop stirring. Your soap is done. Let it stand over night;
then cut it. Let it stand a few days, then take it out to dry. If you wait with cutting, it gets too hard, not so easy to
cut. If you follow my instructions, you will not have trouble.
If you stir too long, the grease and lye separate. If it ever does, let stand overnight, add one pint of water and let it
boil for five minutes. Stir it so it doesn't burn.
If you use dripping and want white soap, boil fat in water and let stand overnight to cool. Then lift off in the
morning when hard.
This soap does not waste like store soap. I have been making this soap for 47 years and I don't think it can be
beat.
Some people put Borax, two tablespoonsful with the lye, but I don't as it makes it hard on the hands. When you
follow my recipe your soap will not chap your hands. Good Luck.
So many people will not follow instructions; then things don't work out right.
Lavender Goat's Milk
Cold-processed
Made on a day when the weather was hot and dry. Used last year's lavender blossoms, this year's not ready yet.
Ingredients
 6 lbs generic soy shortening
 40 oz canola Oil
 20 oz safflower oil
 9 oz olive oil
 2 oz grapeseed oil
 6 lbs frozen goat's milk [we freeze it in 2 lb chunks in plastic freezer bags]
 24 oz NaOH
Additive
 1/2 cup lavender flowers
Scented with
 50 drops lavender essential oil
Method
In the very biggest stainless steel pot, melt shortening and blend with oils on low heat, stir and temp frequently to
keep below 120°F.
In a separate very big stainless steel pot (both need to be big enough to hold the entire batch), put in the slightly
thawed, still very slushy goat's milk. Stirring constantly, pour the lye slowly (very slowly, take at least 10 minutes
to do this step!) over the top of the goat's milk slush and blend it in. It will turn a creamy lemon yellow and
should stay under 120°F.
When the oils are all blended and liquid in their pot and the lye and goat's milk are smoothly blended together,
pour the milk mixture into the oils, stirring as you do so. From here on out, you need to stir constantly. It's nice to
have a helper at this stage, or a mechanical mixer.
My set up for this next stage is a big, strong linoleum covered table. I put one of the pots on one side and the other
on the other side and a heavy duty blender in between. Using a ladle, I scoop the soap mixture into the blender,
filling it about 1/2 full. I run the blender for about a minute and pour the blended soap mixture into the second
pot. You must keep stirring both pots. I repeat this, going back and forth through the blender from pot to pot.
When the soap is starting to trace, I add the lavender flowers and e.o., dividing it out through about 3 blender
loads. The soap usually goes through the blender twice before trace but occasionally traces after only one pass
through the blender and often takes 3 passes.
At trace, pour the soap mixture into plastic molds, 15"x2-1/2"x3-1/2". This batch will fill 7 or 8 of these molds.
Cover loosely with paper towels to keep dust and bugs out. Leave until firm. Put in freezer for 4-6 hours and then
pop out of mold. You can cut it then, but I usually let it cure 6 weeks in the block and then cut it right before
wrapping.
Wrap in paper or cloth so soap can continue to breathe. It is very high in oils, which will leach out if the soap is
wrapped in plastic.
ZenYO
I used an essential oil blend of: Rosewood, Palmarosa, Patchouli, Sandalwood, and Lotus Pink Flower absolute
which I think promotes relaxation as well as a feeling of freshness.
I included yoghurt in my soap because I love the wonderful creaminess that it gives and I particularly love how
my skin feels afterwards.
No extra colour was added. The natural colour of the soap comes from the yoghurt and the light coloured
vegetable oil
 830 g Coconut oil (37.7%)

 680 g Olive oil (30.9%)
 410 g Sunflower oil (18.6%)
 140 g Sweet Almond oil (6.4%)
 140 g Macadamia oil (6.4%)
 330 g Rainwater (filtered)

 326 g NaOH (4% superfat)
Additive
 330 g Natural yoghurt (refrigerated)
Scented with
 25 g Rosewood essential oil
 15 g Palmarosa essential oil
 10 g Patchouli essential oil
 6 g Sandalwood essential oil
 4 g Lotus Pink Flower absolute
Method
Note: Measure yoghurt and refrigerate for 24 hours prior to making soap.
 Prepare lye solution and leave to cool;

 Measure out base oils and heat gently until coconut oil has completely melted and leave to cool;
 Measure essential oils and leave aside;
 Once lye solution has cooled to 40°C add yoghurt and mix thoroughly;
 Pour 'lye yoghurt' mix into oils which should have cooled to 40°C, hand stir to combine;
 Use stick blender and blend until soap mix reaches light trace;
 Add essential oils and hand stir thoroughly;
 Pour mixture into mold and insulate;
 Remove from mold after 24 hours and cut; and
 Leave to cure for a minimum of 4 weeks.
Choc Mint Slice

 780g olive oil
 227g palm oil
 340g distilled water
 170g lye
 25ml peppermint eo
 5ml bergamot eo
 15ml green natural dye
 1 dessertspoon cocoa
At early trace put one cup of soap in a small jug and add cocoa powder.
Add dye and eo's to rest of batch at full trace.
Pour into moulds and swirl with choc mix.
Garden in the Grove Soap

 Coconut Oil 76 degree 21oz
 Rice Bran Oil 20 oz
 Peach Kernel Oil 10 oz
 Palm Kernel 14 oz
 Shea Butter 5 oz
 Wheat Germ Oil 2 oz
 Olive Oil 20 oz
Lye Solution 41.0% with a 39.9 % discount

 Lye 13.53 oz
 Water 19.43 oz (Remember that the Cucumber will account for some of this water)
 Cucumber (Puree with Peel) 15.8 oz (Cucumber Adjusts the Water in the lye solution)
INSTRUCTIONS
:
1. Blend the Lye and Water and set aside to cool to 90 degrees.
2. Puree your cucumber (Peel and All) and set aside to blend in with EO's after the lye solution and oils have
been blended.
3. Heat Oils to 90 degrees.
4. Once Oils have reached 90 degrees slowly pour lye solution and blend (I use a stick blender for this) Stir
until trace.
5. Stir in Cucumber puree.
6. Stir in 2 pounds of Salt
7. Stir in your Lemon EO and Grapfruit EO
This seemed to trace very quickly so I had to work quickly. From the time I started step 1. and finished it took
less than 4 min. I then poured them into a plastic box that would be used for the keeping of shoes. (So the size of
a shoe box)
I had to keep a very close watch on the soap. It did not go through a gel stage or at least if it did I missed it. I
turned the soap out when it was still very warm. (I ended up putting some rubber gloves on to protect my hands)
When I say "still very warm" I mean very hot! I cut into it at about 1 1/2 hours after the pour. Keep in mind that I
live in Arizona and put it out on the porch in the sun. It 108 degrees out that day.
As soon as you turn the soap out you need to start cutting. DO NOT WAIT as the soap will harden and you end
up with "1" very big block of soap that it will take the whole family to help you just to hold the block of soap so
that you can bathe.
Jaffa Fudge Cheesecake Soap

Ingredients [*]
Hint: Measure all oils, lye, water and other ingredients for all three layers. Have the three lots of oils and lye
ready and close to the right temperature, then commence making 'biscuit' layer.
(1) Bottom ('Biscuit') Layer
 612 gms Olive Oil

 120 gms Coconut Oil
 120 gms Palm Oil
 220 gms Lavender Bud and Elderflower Infusion

 114.50gms Lye
 10gms Lavender buds and Elderflower ground herbs

 3 tsps Cocoa
 3 tblsp Olive Oil from allowance
 30 ml Lavender EO + 10ml Lavandin EO (Would probably halve this amount if I made this soap again
because the Lavender tends to overpower the Orange EO and Cocoa smell)
Make a strong infusion of Lavender and Elderflower herbs using 220gms water allowance for mixing with Lye.
Finely blend 10gms Lavender and Elderflower dried herb. Mix with 3 tsps Cocoa and add to 3 tblsp Olive Oil
from allowance for addition at trace.
30 ml Lavender EO at trace + 10ml Lavandin EO add at trace.
This will form the 'biscuit' base of your cheesecake.
Pour into mould and immediately cover so the soap does not become too cold. Begin preparation of second layer.
(2) Middle (Jaffa Fudge) Layer
 1594.60 gms Olive Oil

 734.80 gms Coconut Oil
 166.35 gms Cocoa Butter
 55.65 gms Macadamia Nut Oil
 440 gms Fresh Orange Juice

 342.40 Water
 357.20 gms Lye
 1 tsp Rosemary Oleoresin in oils

 86 gms Finely grated Orange rind
 12 ml Fresh Orange juice
 12 gms Cocoa / One and One-Quarter tsp Ground Coffee
 20ml Sweet Orange, 6ml Mandarin Tranquility, 15ml Grapefruit, 6ml Lime, 6ml Bergamot and 2.5ml
Clove Bud EOs (Would probably double these amounts if I made the soap again)
 3gms Nutmeg powder, One and One-Quarter grams Cinnamon powder, Half a gram Clove powder
Mix Orange rind and Orange Juice with EOs and Half of the Macadamia Nut oil and set aside.
Mix Cocoa, Nutmeg, Clove and Cinnamon powders with remaining half of Macadamia nut oil and set aside.
Mix Oils and Lye. Just before trace add Turmeric and Annatto to bring main batch to required colour (a warm
orange). Mix orange rind and Macadamia Nut Oil mixture thoroughly and add to main batch.
At light trace remove One Quarter of the mix into a jug. Stir in Cocoa, Nutmeg, Clove, Cinnamon and
Macadamia Nut Oil mixture.
Pour a small amount of the main batch into the mould just enough to cover the bottom ('biscuit') layer. Drizzle
some of the cocoa into the mould. Pour on the rest of the main batch and drizzle the balance of the cocoa gently
over the top. Swirl carefully, taking care not to scrape bottom (biscuit) layer. Cover again and leave to set. Work
reasonably fast as this layer can seize quite quickly. Commence making 'topping' layer.
(3) Top Layer (Coconut and Vanilla Crème Topping)
 340.16 gms Olive Oil

 255.12 gms Coconut Oil
 212.60 gms Grapeseed Oil
 42.52 gms Shea Butter
 180 gms Water
 119 gms Lye
 30 mls Essential Oils (Bergamot, Vanilla Brazil, Mandarin and Clove bud EOs.)
 (So sorry I did not write down the exact amounts of the Essential Oils for this layer. Bergamot would be
the largest amount with Clove bud being the least amount)
 80gms Coconut Crème with 3 level tblsp Coconut powder.
Mix Oils and Lye. Mix coconut cream and coconut powder and set aside.
At trace add coconut cream, coconut powder and essential oils. Pour carefully onto middle layer taking care not to
disturb the lower layers too much. Wait until the top layer thickens enough and push the mixture into soft peaks
with spatula. Sprinkle top with grated chocolate (organic if possible). Insulate mould and leave 12 - 18 hours and
cut.
Ginger Lime Coconut Milk Soap

Melt together: -
Base Ingredients
 16 oz Bear Tallow infused with fresh lime peel and strained
 16 oz Lard infused with fresh ginger and strained
 10 oz Cocoa butter
 8 oz Olive oil infused with chamomile flowers and strained
 7 oz Palm Kernel oil
 5 oz Castor oil
 4 oz Sunflower seed oil
 3 oz Grapeseed oil (for 4.5% superfatting)
Lye mixture as follows:
 14.4 oz Canned Coconut milk combined with

 7.6 oz distilled water (partially frozen into a slurry)
 9.1 oz NaOH
Scented with
 5 oz Ginger Lime FO
Additives
 1/2 tspn Chromium green oxide
 2 tspns Pink Kaolin Clay
Method
Cold process method. Melt together all of the base ingredients. Make up the lye mixture. Proceed as per usual to
bring soap to trace. At light trace, add the fragrance oil. Split the batch 1/4 to 3/4 and add the green oxide to the
1/4 mixture and the pink Kaolin Clay to the 3/4 mixture. Swirl gently into your mold. Makes a 5 pound batch.
Donkey Milk Soap for the Soul

 658g Olive Oil - 29%
 635g Palm Oil - 28%
 567 Coconut Oil - 25%
 249g Grapeseed Oil - 11%
 113g Hemp Seed Oil - 5%
 45g Castor Oil - 2%
 650ml Donkeys Milk to replace the water
 321g NaOH
Meusli Soap
 52% olive oil
 15% organic palm oil
 15% coconut oil
 10% organic sunflower oil
 8% organic almond oil
Made with CP method.

I added honey and yogurt stick blended with a bit of water before I reached trace.
At trace I added ground flax seeds, sunflower seeds, oatmeal, wheat germ and a sprinkle of cinnamon.
This soap is scented with the following EO's: Bitter and Sweet orange, and tiny amounts of cinnamon leaf and
oakmoss.
Bar with Honey and Almond

Beautifully cleans, improves skin health and rinses completely. An extra mild, moisture-rich bar formulated for
people with extremely sensitive and dry skin.
The properties of wheatgerm oil are well known.
Fresh Almond Milk: (see how to below)
Almond milk helps to hydrate and soften the skin.
Almond proteins aid in firming the epidermis layer of the skin.
Almond milk supports cells for an extra smoothing effect.
Clover Honey:
Honey is a humectant it attracts and retains moisture.
Honey is an anti-irritant, making it suitable for sensitive skin and baby products.
Honey has anti-inflammatory and anti-viral properties.
Honey is a natural antiseptic.
It also acts as an anti-oxidant.
Standard soapmaking procedures were used in creating this soap. Gram weights are rounded to the nearest tenth.
Flaxseed was not added to the swap batch due to concerns about customs restrictions. I poured the soap before
Kay's post.
Nutrition type food bars inspired this soap. Good Enough to eat!
Leona Marchand, Dandelion Herbals©
Ingredients [*]
Olive Oil 22.0oz. (623.7 grams)
Coconut Oil 14.6oz. (413.9 grams)
Palm Oil 9.8oz. (277.8 grams)
Wheat Germ Oil 2.4oz. (68.0 grams)
Castor Oil 1.2oz. (34.0 grams)
NaOH 6.85oz. (194.2 grams)
Distilled Water 10.2oz. (289.2 grams)
Fresh Almond Milk 8.0oz. (226.8 grams)
Vit. E Oil (Tocopherols) 0.2oz. (6.0 grams)
Almond Meal 2 Tbs. (29.6 mil), Or QS
Finely Ground Flaxseed 1-2 Tbs. (29.6 mil. Or QS)
Clover Honey 0.4oz. (11.0 grams) added to Almond Milk
Spicy Vanilla EO Blend 2.2oz. (62.0 grams)
Sodium Borate (Borax) ~3/8 tsp. (0.8 mil.)
Total 77.85 oz., + 4 Tbs. + 3/8 tsp. (1979.8 g + 60 mil.)
Spicy Vanilla EO Blend:

Nutmeg EO 1.0oz. (28.4 grams)
Clove Bud EO 0.6oz. (17.0 grams)
Lavender 40/42 EO 0.2oz. (5.7 grams)
Ginger EO 0.1oz. (2.8 grams)
Cinnamon Leaf EO 0.1oz. (2.8 grams)
Cardamom EO 0.1oz. (2.8 grams)
Vanilla Oleoresin 0.1oz. (2.8 grams)
Total 2.2oz. (62.3 grams)
Honeyed Almond Milk Recipe
1 c. Raw Almonds
2 c. Distilled Boiling Water
To blanche almonds, pour boiling water over them in a pot and set it aside for three minutes. Drain and discard
the water and slip the skins off by squeezing the almonds between your thumb and fingers. Dry them and then
toast them in an oven at 325 °F (165 °C) for about 10 minutes. Almond can be ground at this point if you have a
really strong grinder/blender.
In a sterile covered container pour the 2 c. of boiling water over almonds. Cover and place in the refrigerator for
24 hours. Almonds should be sufficiently softened. Blend almonds with the water until almonds are finely
ground. You can tell by looking on the side of the blender and seeing the particles.
Strain the milk through a fine sieve or I use a very large muslin tea strainer. Yields about 1 _ to 2 cups of milk.
Add the honey to the milk at this time and mix well.
Do not discard the pulp. It can be used in baked goods, scrubs or in this case soap. I plan to make my soap as soon
as possible after making the milk. It will only last about 3 day refrigerated. The pulp can also be dried and used in
about a week or so.
Soothing Blend Soap
Fixed Oils
 Soybean Oil 1065 g 28%

 Coconut Oil 885 g 23%
 Olive Oil 795 g 21%
 Palm Kernel Oil 1060 g 28%
3805 g
Lye
 Distilled Water 1265 g

 NaOH 585 g
1850 g
Superfatting Oils
 Apricot Kernel Oil 45 g

 Castor Oil 45 g
 Avocado Oil 45 g
 Shea Butter 45 g
 Aloe Extract 45 g
225 g
Additives
 Glycerin 100.5 g
 Kaolin 50 g
150.5 g
Fragrance
 Ylang ylang 45.1 g 63% of Fragrance Blend

 Lavender 12.9 g 18% of Fragrance Blend
 Bergamot 6.5 g 9% of Fragrance Blend
 Vanilla 7.2 g 10% of Fragrance Blend
71.7 g 1.88% of Fixed Oils
Total Batch 6102.2 g
My inspiration was very stressful days at work! I needed something to put my nerves at ease in my morning
shower. This blend of essential oils has always worked wonders on my nerves or anxiety, so I made a soap to
carry it.
Lavendar & Oatmeal
3.8kg palm oil
0.75kg coconut oil
0.51kg lye
0.75kg water
100ml lavender essential oil
organic rolled oates added at trace
Melt oils to 45 C
Add caustic when cooled to 45 C
I use an electric drill with a handmade attachment to stir until trace. Add the E/O and oats at trace. Then pour into
mould.
I insulate the soap with wool blankets for atleast 24hrs.
My moulds are a flexible plastic tray that allow the soap to pop out about 3 days after pouring. Each slab is then
individually cut with a mighty big knife.
This recipes makes 45 cakes of soap each about 100grams.
OAKGROVE HERBAL BLAST

 12.4 oz Sodium Hydroxide(recipe is 6%SF)
 32 oz spring water
 24 oz coconut oil (26%)
 24 oz olive oil (26%)
 38 oz vegetable oil shortening (in Canada made with palm oil and soybean oil) (41.5%)
 6 oz beeswax (6.5%)
 2 oz aloe vera gel (or a nice 6inch leaf liquified in a blender)
 1 oz each jojoba oil
 tea tree EO
 eucalyptus EO
 peppermint EO
 0.2 oz dried mint or bergamot
 Add aloe vera gel, mint, jojoba oil and essential oils at trace.
This soap is one of the first I ever made when I began making cold-processed soap almost 7 years ago. It's still
one of my favourites and one of my best-sellers too! It is based on a basic recipe from Sandy Maine's book which
is the first and only resource I had for several years! I tinkered with it as I always do and added goodies that
"kicked butt." In fact, I was going to name it Kick Butt Soap but had to explain that term too much to the older
folk!
As far as inspiration goes, I simply wanted a good all-purpose natural soap to put out for my kids to wash with
when they come home from school, kill germs, clean cuts and scrapes and smell invigorating, one that "kicked
butt!" It sure does
Incognito Adventure Soap

White Oak, White Birch and White Cedar were known to mask human smells and allow the hunter to sneak up
surreptitiously on unsuspecting game. The insect repellent essential oil should make the whole experience more
comfortable when faced with suffocating clouds of black flies and mosquitoes.
The swirl is.......Just Because. So go on........go out and have a forest adventure!
This soap was made with the regular CP process......

 1500 g Olive oil
 200 g Castor oil
 200 g Sunflower oil
 19 drops R.O.E. mixed with oils
 600 g Spring Water infusion of white oak bark, white birch bark
and white cedar needle fans.
 249 g NaOH [3% superfat]
At thin trace.......add.......
 56 g "Woods" Natural fragrance oil
 14 g Basil essential oil
 14 g Eucalyptus essential oil
 14 g Cedarwood essential oil
Additives & Method
Swirled with 15 ml (1 tablespoon) each of red, pink, green and grey clay mixed into 1 oz extra water each and
then about 125 ml (1/2 cup) thin traced soap....dropped into the 4 corners of pot then poured back and forth into
the slab mold, stirred once each way, covered and left for 48 hours.
The soap was unmolded and left in a slab for 1 week as it was soft and gel-like in centre.
Then it was cut into bars while still soft in centre and cured. It dried quickly when cut into small bars. Don’t rush
it. You may want to reduce the water amount a bit.
Honey Carrot Yogurt Complexion Soap

 64 oz Lard
 32 oz Rice Bran oil
 32 oz Coconut oil
 24 oz Olive oil
 16 oz Heavy Jersey Cream
 16 oz Plain Yogurt
 9 oz Beeswax
 8 oz Castor oil
 8 oz Wheatgerm oil
 32 oz Carrot Juice
 25 oz NaOH [7-8%superfat]
 2.7 oz Sodium Lactate
At trace
 11 oz Honey
 3.5 oz Carrot Juice - to dilute the honey
 3 oz Hazelnut oil
 3 oz Hemp Seed oil
 2.5 oz Emu oil
 2.5 oz Macadamia Nut oil
 2 oz Vegetable Glycerine
 1.8 oz Silk Proteins
 1.8 oz Wheat Proteins
Method
I put the cream and the yogurt in the pot with the oils when the oils have cooled down and gave it a whiz with the
stick blender before adding the lye solution.
After Dinner Mint Soap

 1077gm Olive Oil
 680 gm Coconut Oil
 458 gm Palm Oil
 113 gm Sweet Almond Oil
 825 ml water
 353 gm lye
 15ml dark chocolate FO
 15 ml peppermint EO
Chocolate Chip Mint Ice Cream Soap

ngredients [*]
Chocolate Chips:
 16 oz. cocoa butter

 2 oz. lye
 4 oz. water
 1.5 tablespoons cocoa powder for coloring
I let this set up overnight, cut into small squares and set aside.
Mint Soap:
 16 oz. coconut oil

 12 oz. rice bran oil
 10 oz. cocoa butter
 10 oz. shea butter
 9 oz. shea oil
 7 oz. soy butter
 8.8 oz. lye

 20 oz. water
 3 oz. spearmint essential oil

 1/2 oz. patchouli essential oil
 1/2 teaspoon chromium green to color
Stir in the chocolate pieces and pour into mold.
Peppermint Oatmeal Soap

 48 oz Olive Oil
 76 oz Palm Oil
 24 oz Sodium Hydroxide
 4 lbs. (2 Quarts) Filtered Water
 8 oz Peppermint Essential Oil

 2 Tbs crushed dried peppermint leaf
 2 Tbs finely ground oats
1. Mix the lye with the water and leave to cool.

2. Melt the coconut and palm oil. Once melted remove from heat and add the olive oil.
3. Bring the lye solution and oils to the same temperature, between 100-125 degrees Farenheit.
4. Pour in a thin stream the lye solution into the oils, blending the whole time. When the mixture begins to
trace, add the essential oil, still blending. Then add the dried mint and oats, blend to trace.
5. Pour into molds, cover and let set up.
6. Cut into bars in a few days and let cure for 4-6 weeks before using.
Soymilk & Vanilla

1081 gm (4 pounds) olive oil
1013 gm (2 pounds 8 ounces) coconut oil
680 gm (1 pound 8 ounces) palm oil
460 gm sodium hydroxide
700 gm water
336 gm (slushy) soymilk
4 tbsp oil (eg sweet almond, grapeseed)

7 tsp vanilla fragrance oil (mixed in with the oil)
I made this soap when both oils and lye reached 30 degrees. For those not familiar with the slushy method, I put
the soymilk in the freezer just before I added the sodium hydroxide to the water. When the lye got down to about
35 degrees I added the soymilk to the solution just a bit at a time.
The soymilk is 'slushy' from being in the freezer.
This soap traces pretty fast - in about half an hour with hand stirring. At trace add the 4 tbsp oil and the 7 tsp
vanilla and pour into the mould.
Exfoliating Bar Shea Butter & Vanilla

 40% Olive oil (mixture of pure and pomace)
 33% Palm oil
 20% Coconut oil
 5% Shea Butter
 2% Castor Bean oil
 28% Distilled water

 NaOH (5% superfat)
Additive & scent blend
 10g ground vanilla (in one half of soap)
 4 tsp Orange essential oil
 1 tsp Lavender essential oil
 1 tsp Palmarosa essential oil
 1/2 tsp Geranium essential oil
 1/8 tsp Ylang Ylang essential oil
Method
I made cold process soap as per usual, mixed oils/lye and then split the mixture into two parts. I mixed the first
part to trace, added the ground vanilla and half of the essential oils, mixed to heavy trace and poured into the
mould. I then waited 15 mins or so until the soap in the mould set slightly, before bringing the second mixture to
trace, adding essential oils and pouring over top. The trick is to get the first mixture to a heavy enough trace so
that it can support the next layer without them mixing together.
I am happy with the result, hope you enjoy it.
Mel's Favorite
Mel's Favourite Cold Press Soap
312 gms Coconut Oil

312 gms Cocoa Butter
250 gms Olive Oil
212 ml Green tea
141 gms Lye (6.75% super fatted)
63 gms Sweet Almond Oil
63 gms Avocado Oil
10 ml lavender e.o.
10 ml lime e.o
10 ml lemongrass e.o
I love the lather, I like the colour, I adore the fragrance! This is simply my most favourite recipe.
Mel's Inspired by Love

This is water discounted Cold Process Soap recipe.
 360gm Palm Oil

 270 gms Rice bran oil
 270 gms Coconut oil
 100 gms Shea butter
 139 gms lye (6.5% superfat)
 209 ml water (lye x 1.5)
 12 ml bergamot eo
 3 ml Petitgrain eo
 3 ml orange eo
 7.5 ml lemon eo
 3 ml lavender eo
 1.5 ml rosemary eo
Notes:
Inspiration - love! A few years ago my marriage failed and the break-up was quite acrimonious. I thought that
"love" was for story books!
Recently a wonderful man has entered my life and we are very much in "storybook love".
Some things we love the same and some we love differently. I prefer citrus scents, he prefers lavender. I use
animal products, he is a vegetarian.
This soap is a product of our love. It is a vegetarian version of my favourite base oils recipe and the scent blend is
an eau de cologne which combines citrus and lavender.
Making this soap was a very positive experience for me and my love! I made 24 large bars of soap and the
leftover from the swap will be special for both of us.
Spiced Apple Soap by Merinda Air
Merinda Air's Spiced Apple soap
This soap takes ages to dry and is not good to do when the weather is inclement! Supplied below are also the
instructions for making Apple Butter.
Merinda Air
Ingredients [*]
Spiced Apple Butter
14 Granny Smith Apples; quartered, leave skin on
500mls Apple Cider vinegar
2 c Sugar; to taste
1 drop clove bud essential oil
2 drops Cinnamon essential oil
2 drops Nutmeg essential oil
Lemon juice; optional-use if apples are too sweet

I use my large Crockpot, or an electric wok, for this recipe.
Combine all ingredients and cook in high stirring occasionally for the first hour or so; covered. Then remove
cover and turn down to low and stir occasionally. This is a slow process since you have NOT precooked the
apples. Will take 24 to 36 hours.
But you have NEVER tasted anything so good. I think it is much better this way then precooking the apples. I
usually stir in the skin every hour or so but this is not critical.
If the skin on your apples refuses to break down, use a hand held blender and zap it a few times.
NOTE: The skin is the substance that makes it thick along with the evaporation of the water. Please try it with the
lid of the Crockpot off.
Spiced Apple Soap
2 kilos Olive Oil
257 grams Caustic Soda
3 drops clove bud essential oil
6 drops Cinnamon essential oil
6 drops Nutmeg essential oil
Before you cook too much of the liquid away from the apple butter take some out as you water for the soap
Add the caustic soda to the liquid and beat until it has dissolved, then make up the difference to about 600 mls
with water.
Pour the lye mixture into the olive oil and beat to light trace, add the oils and beat in.
Finally add as much apple butter as you'd like - about 1 cup or so (this is where the extra water comes from). Beat
until custard consistency and quickly pour into your moulds.
The Sea
Michaila's THE SEA...
Palm oil
Coco oil
Olive oil
Caster oil
Nori seaweed
Liquid chlorophyll
Spearmint E.O.
Voila!! I love this soap as it is my best seller (!!), and reminds me of the beautiful sea where I spend time to think,
meditate and relax.
Gathering shells is a favorite pastime and I wonder about all the little critters that used to live in them. I love how
you can smell the saltiness of the nori in the soap just like on the beach on a wild and windy day! Spearmint
reminds me of the freshness of the breeze coming off the sea on a calm and sunny day. Hope you enjoy it too.
Cheers,
Honeyed Carrot
Here is the recipe.
Castor Oil 227g

Coconut Oil 212g
Olive Oil 227g
Soybean Oil 454g
Sunflower Oil 454g
Beeswax 56g
Water350 ml
Carrot Juice 226 ml
With this recipe you add caramelised honey at trace, I used 2TBsp that I had microwaved to caramalise. The
liquid used is water and carrot juice. The carrot juice gets added after you mix the lye with the oils. If you need
any more info let me know.
Coffee Delight by Pam Schroeder

I chose to make a coffee soap because it is a "soap that works". It is supposed to be made for the kitchen. The
coffee helps get rid of "smells" like onions, garlic etc., The coffee grinds are suppose to help scrub your hands.
One of my friends gave me this recipe and I just love it !!!! I think it is very easy and simple to make. I have
never had a bad batch of soap with this recipe. I used the CP method to make this soap. I hope you all enjoy it as
much as I do.
Base Ingredients
 28 oz Olive oil
 12 oz Lard
 4 oz Cocoa Butter
 24 oz coffee
 8 7/8 oz NaOH
Additive
 4 tsp coffee grounds (fresh).
Lavender & Rosemary
Makes 75 oz.
18 oz coconut oil
19.5 palm
26.3 Olive
9.8 avacado
1.5 castor oil
10.5 oz lye
25 oz distilled water
5 tsp mixture of Lavender and Rosemary.
About 7 months ago I developed an interest in Essential Oils, and started spending many hours reading about and
researching them. That's when I started also ordering them from various places I found online, and experimenting
w/them in carrier oils and diffusion. Then a friend of mine gave me a white bar of her own home-made lavender
soap, tied w/a violet ribbon. When I took it in my hand, it was like, "POW" and I was hooked! Then I started
obsessively reading and researching about soap-making. I'd sit for hours at my computer reading various
websites, looking at the soaps, and reading books. It was during my website forays that I found the great
SoapNaturally website. This batch is my very first, so, I'm sorry if it's the sorriest soap in the Swap! By the time
the next Swap comes around, I'll have a much better soap! I'm also doing a lot of reading now about perfumery,
and have made 3 or so little blends for myself, and a couple of them smell pretty good.
Almond Delight Soap by Renate Brunner

First of all I'm sorry, but my labels don't have a name on them for the soap, the guy who printed it for me, got it
3x wrong, had to give up in the end... it's called Almond Delight. I sell a soap with similar look, which people
always comment, that it looks good enough to eat, hence to look.
For the ingredients I have chosen Almonds, because they're my favourite nut and I love aniseedy tastes.
Renate Brunner
Ingredients [*]
first lot:
 800g Coconut oil

 60g Castor oil
 200g Rice-bran oil
 100g Grapeseed oil
 840g Olive Oil
 291g Caustic Soda
 580g Water
 3 Tb sp Almond-meal
 70g grated coffee soap
 4ml Patchouli EO
 12 ml Mandarin EO
 8ml Lemongrass EO
Firstly mix Almond-meal and EOs, set aside.

Put all oils in pot and melt, let cool to 40 degrees C
Mix Caustic Soda and Water, cool to 40 degrees C, mix Caustic Soda with oils, at light trace add Almond mixture
and grated coffee-soap, pour and only half fill your mould.
second lot:
 same oils as above

 1 tb sp Paprika
 6ml Aniseed EO
 6ml Mandarin EO
Mix Paprika and Eos and set aside; mix oils , cool to 40 degree C; mix Water and Caustic Soda, cool to 40 degree
C, at light trace, add Paprika/Eo mix, pour on top of the first layer.
Zen Soap
400gm coconut oil

450gm palm oil
150gm olive oil
375ml rain water
148gm caustic soda
12ml lemongrass E/O
8ml ginger E/O
"It's my favourite new recipe at the moment because of the clean zesty wake up in the morning smell"
Baby Soap Recipe

 16 oz infused olive oil,
 10 oz coconut,
 10 oz palm,
 12 oz water,
 4.6 oz lye,
 1 oz sweet almond (added at trace).
Olive infused with 1/4 cup calendula petals.
Citrus Potpourri
Roger's Citrus Potpourri
40 oz Olive oil ("100% pure" from Sam's Club)

20 oz Coconut oil (92 degree)
20 oz Palm oil
20 oz Palm Kernel oil
14.25 oz NaOH
35 oz RO filtered water
5 oz Sweet Almond oil (added at trace)
1.5 oz Sweet Orange essential oil (added at trace)

1.5 oz Lime essential oil (added at trace)
1.5 oz Lemon essential oil (added at trace)
1.5 oz Grapefruit essential oil (added at trace)
Brought lye and oils to 100 degrees F and mixed with stick blender for about two minutes, till tracing began.
Mixed in Sweet Almond oil and essential oils. Poured into loaf mold lined with plastic wrap and covered with
plastic wrap. Covered with blankets for 24 hours. Removed from mold, cut and left to cure.
I like the orange scent in this bar. The lemon and lime and grapefruit are behind the orange. The base winds up
being hard enough to last a while, but feels soft when wet.It's interesting ... we make a "Whispering Pine" soap
that my wife and our comrade in crime (Faye) both love the scent of and I don't like it. The scent is the first
determining factor in my like or dislike of a soap. After that, the texture is important as well. We make a lavender
bar with lavender buds that makes a nice scrub bar. My daughter (7 yrs) calls it Lavender Bugs, because the buds
are dark and get all over you and the shower floor
Lavender Peppermint Soap

 40 oz Olive oil
 20 oz Pam oil
 5 oz Jojoba oil (added at trace)
 4 oz Lavender EO (added at trace)
 2 oz Peppermint EO (added at trace)
 6 oz Alcanet diffused in 8 oz olive oil
(added at trace)
 34 oz filtered water
 14.5 oz lye
Combined oils and lye at 100 degrees F. Mixed

with stick blender. Poured into loaf mold and
covered with plastic wrap. Wrapped in blankets for
24 hrs and then cut.
Comino Soap
The soap has been swirled (sort of) blue to reflect the sea surrounding the island. I have put sea salt on top to
reflect the salty atmosphere and it has been fragranced with citronella, rosemary and tea tree eos - citronella is
what we use in the evenings to keep off the mosquitoes, and rosemary and tea tree have been added to try to give
the soap the herbal feel of the place. Chamomile tea was used for the liquid for the same reason. Enjoy!
Heres the recipe for a 3,200 grammes batch.
 Olive oil 1600 grammes

 Palm oil 800 grammes
 Coconut oil 640 grammes
 Sesame oil 60 grammes
 NaOH 446 grammes
 Chamomile Tea 800 grammes
 EO blend 96 grammes
 Blue ultramarine 1 tsp
 Sea salt 200 grammes (not all was used)
 Liquid soap colour few drops
EO blend was made up of 60 grammes citronella, 30 grammes rosemary and six grammes tea tree. Before starting
the soap, I coloured the sea salt with a few drops of blue liquid soap colour. As soon as I put the soap in the
mould I sprinkled the coloured sea salt on top.
or guys only FGO
Base Ingredients
 1092 g Olive oil
 371 g Coconut oil
 60 g Avocado oil
 45 g Castor oil
 22 g Beeswax
 506 g Water
 217 g NaOH
The scent combination is

 14 g Avocado oil
 16.5 ml Patchouli essential oil
 13 ml Cedarwood essential oil
 5 ml Cinnamon essential oil
 7 ml Musk fragrance oil
Method
I brought the lye and water to 47°C and oils were heated to 47°C, mixed to a very light trace and added the scent
combination. These I had mixed together and placed them in a water bath to warm while oils and lye reached their
temperature.
I hope you enjoy this.
Chocolate Dipped Strawberries Soap

ngredients [*]
Soap "Strawberries"
 589gms coconut oil

 131gms palm oil
 523gms olive oil
 65gms cocoa butter
 Measure out
 436gms water and reserve 100gms
 194gms NaOH
 170gms fresh strawberries
 35ml strawberry FO
Wash and hull the stawberries and place in a blender with the 100gms water from above and puree like crazy.
Then add to the rest of the water and add the lye.Oils and lye to 45 C.I used red colour #5 and added enough to
get the desired "ripeness" of strawberries, then added FO. Poured into slab mold, cut after 48 hours into shapes.
Chocolate soap
 884gms coconut oil

 196gms palm oil
 784gms olive oil
 100gms cocoa butter
 291gms NaOH
 654gms water
 90gms melting chocolate
 52ml vanilla oil
 3 tblsp cocoa powder
Take 90gms olive oil from above and warm gently with the melting chocolate, then add cocoa powder and keep
warm.
Oils and lye to 45 C at light trace mix in chocolate mixture and vanilla oil, then pour over your strawberry shapes.
Coconut and Red Bean Soap

I have substituted half the liquid with coconut milk and added ground red beans for exfoliation.
 400g olive oil

 300g rice bran oil
 50g shea butter
 139g caustic soda
 150g coconut milk
 150g water
 1 tablespoon red beans (available from your local Asian grocer),
 ground in a coffee grinder
 1/2 tablespoon whole red beans (more for decoration than anything else)
 2 tsp water chestnut starch
This batch is unfragranced, although if you'd like to fragrance it, I would suggest coconut FO.
Sandi's Aussie Bush Bar

Sandie's "Aussie Bush Bar"
1200g purified water
1200g canola oil
945g coconut oil
855g olive oil
500g lye
300g cocoa butter
300g avocado oil
Mix at 40 degrees celsius lye water/45 degrees celsius oils
At trace add:
30ml sandalwood essential oil

20ml eucalyptus oil
1 cup of oats (blended with hand mixer)
Pour into mould then sprinkle over:
extra blended oats with 1 tsp green French clay

---------------------------------------------------------
Hope you like it -I love it!
I chose this recipe because I love the base soap - it's so rich and nourishing. I added the sandalwood & eucalyptus
to give it a real earthy, Australian feel and I threw in the oats because they are great for a gentle scrubby effect.
The extra oats and clay are really for looks, but I think it just reinforces the earthy feel. Green clay is actually
great for
cleansing and softening the skin.
Cradle Mountain Soap

Recipe:
 48oz canola
 24oz palm
 24oz olive
 21oz coconut
 13oz almond
 42oz purified water
 18oz lye crystals
 mix at around 100 degrees(F)
 at trace, add
 40ml lavender
 10ml pine
 10ml rosemary
 5ml ylang ylang
At trace, I mixed a small amount with red clay, and another small amount with green clay, then swirled them
through the poured soap.
Carrot Cake Soap by Sandy Sievers

Why did I make this? Well, I hadn't used carrots yet and wanted to give them a go, then the theme for this swap
came up and the idea just hit me. And I decided to try to make it as much like carrot cake as I could, hence the
cinnamon and vanilla, and the orange peel and calendula give it some texture and color. The color actually came
out like a dark spice cake or carrot cake. I used powdered sugar cause it's a combination of sugar (for lather) and
cornstarch (for silkiness). I like it anyway. I'd like to experiment with the scent, but the overall soap I like.
Sandy Sievers, Tall Blondes Soaps
Ingredients [*]
 Apricot Kernel Oil: 5 oz (6.67%)
 Castor Oil: 3 oz (4%)
 Coconut Oil: 17 oz (22.67%)
 Corn Oil: 10 oz (13.33%)
 Macadamia Nut Oil: 5 oz (6.67%)
 Olive Oil: 25 oz (33.33%)
 Sunflower Oil: 10 oz (13.33%)
 Water: 20 oz
 Carrot Puree: 8 oz
(I boiled carrots, then put the carrots plus a little bit of the water I boiled them with in a blender to puree. Then the
rest of the carrot water I used for the lye preparation)
 Lye: 10.3 oz (approx. 6% superfat)
The olive oil was about 10 oz orange infused oo, 8 oz vanilla (tea) infused oo, 7 oz calendula infused oo.
At light trace I added 3 oz honey, 0.1 oz cinnamon, 0.4 oz powdered vanilla, 0.5 oz powdered sugar, 1.0 oz
powdered milk, 0.3 oz ground, dried orange peel, 0.1 ground, dried calendula. For fragrance, I don't have much, I
used 0.3 oz tangerine eo and 0.7 oz ginger eo.

Natural Soapmaking (once Soap Naturally) recipes

3rd International Soap Swap
Sarah's Soap Recipe
Sweet Balsam Hemp Soap by Sarah C. (LadyScales), Suds by Sarah - Lincoln, NE
"My Latest Creation" for the Natural Soapmaking (once Soap Naturally) ISS3 was created using my brand new
divider mold and a new purchased essential oil blend called Sweet Balsam from A Garden Eastward. No added
color - the green is from the virgin, unrefined hemp. [VBG]
I wanted to send something extra special for my first international swap and I hope everyone enjoys this bar.
All measurements are in ounces.
Ingredients
 10 Coconut Oil
 4 Hemp Seed Oil
 2 Mango Butter
 20 Olive Oil
 20 Palm Oil
 10 Palm Kernel Oil
 2 Shea Butter
 26 oz. distilled water for full MMS amount - I discounted for CPOP
 9.50 oz. lye for 5% discount
 pinch of silk fibers added to lye water and dissolved before blending with base oils.
Method
Follow usual safety and soapmaking procedures. At trace I added a mix of about 1 oz. of sweet almond oil, 1 T.
vitamin E and Sweet Balsam blend essential oil (or scent of choice) in desired amount.
Rosemary Zenfusion
I had been trying for two years to capture the rosemary scent in a soap, and with the infusion of fresh rosemary
into the lye water and the oils, I think I finally did it. So, I was rejoicing in the success of something I had tried to
do for a long time. A Rosemary infusion relaxes me and thats my kind of 'Zen'.
Base Ingredients
 20 oz Olive oil
 10 oz Palm oil
 10 oz Castor oil
 31 oz Rosemary tea
 14 oz NaOH
Scented with
 2 oz Rosemary essential oil, camphor type
 2 oz Rosemary essential oil, cineole type
 2 oz Lemon Myrtle essential oil
Additives
 2 Tblsps Wondra flour
 2 tspns chromium oxide green
Method
Fresh rosemary was used to make the tea, and fresh rosemary was infused into the combined castor, olive and rice
bran oils. The tea and infusion were done the day before the soap was made. All ingredients were close to room
temperature (approx 80°F) at the time of mixing, and the soap was not covered or insulated after pouring. This is
due to the fact that the flashpoint for rosemary EO is only slightly higher than 100°F, and I didn't want the
fragrance to vaporize.
Note
Wondra flour is the non-clumping kind of flour that people use to make gravy
Margarita Salt Spa

This soap is to help one achieve clarity of mind, in the spa. Enjoy !
Base Ingredients
 875 g Palm oil  48.65%
 486 g Olive oil  27.03%
 437 g Coconut oil  24.32%

 443 g Water  30.00% discount
 258 g NaOH  5.00% superfat
Scented with
 53 g Lime essential oil
Additives
 1/2 tspn Ground Keffir peel
 5 Kaffir Lime leaves
 3 tspns Glycerin
 200g Sea Salt medium size grain
 cosmetic colour
Method/Notes
Kaffir lime leaves and peel was ground in a mini blender with the glycerine and zapped in the microwave, the
idea of this was to help preserve the peel and leaves.
RTCP* with lye and water mixed at room temp, this lye mix was not allowed to cool down and blended straight
into the room temp oils while hot. Reason for this was to make the soap gel as the salt seems to hinder gel. Once
at very light trace add eo's and peel/leaves, blend a little more until all mixed, then add salt then pour off some to
be coloured.
NB: Keep soap away from humidity as the salt will sweat and bead. This is a creamy soap with medium bubbles
and medium creamy lather when used with warm water, the harder the water used when bathing the less lather
and bubbles.
*Room Temp Cold Process, the oils are no hotter than the ambient room temp which was about 25-27°C. This is
a big time saver especially when one has a lot of soap to make and there is less cleanup involved.
Also using pre-mix lye is another time saver and fantastic to control temperature wise, but this is another story
altogether.
I was breaking new experimental ground on this one. I was at one stage at the point of not sending it as I was not
happy with the lather, but it is a salt soap so I really don't know what expectations people have or what is
achievable.
Sharon H's No Name Soap Recipe
The recipe I don't have a name but i have garden
scents on my label so you can use that if you like.
 1400gms Extra Virgin Olive Oil

 600gms Coconut Oil
 700gms Palm Oil
 200gms Sesame Oil
 100gms Castor Oil
Chamomile Tea for the liquid (i brought this from a

local tea shop that sells 100's of varieties, But it
was just the chamomile flower tops)
527gms Chamomile Tea 414gm Lye for a 5%

Super Fat
3 Desert spoons Tumeric Powder, I mixed this in 3

Tablespoons of extra water because i forgot to save some tea, but next time i would mix in a little more liquid.
30gm each of Lemon Grass, Sweet Orange & Patchouli Essential Oils. Which is a total 3% of soap oils.
I also added at light trace 1/4 cup of crumbs from the bottom of the chamomile flower bag.
Inspiration: None for this particular blend, but i do love the scent of patchouli and hope the lemon grass dies
down a little.
Honey 'n' Oats (ANZAC Biscuit) Soap

 1750gm Olive Oil
 700gm Palm Oil
 700gm Coconut Oil
 175gm Sesame Oil
 175gm Castor Oil
 70gm Sodium Lactate -Optional
 90gm Bees Wax
 42gm Honey Powder
 30gm Fresh Honey
 482.5 gm Lye
 557gm Bottled Water
 48gm Ginger EO
 Ground Oatmeal
This recipe has a 5% SF level
The 30gm of honey had previously been dissolved in 250gm water (deducted from the 557gm above) a few days
earlier as per Marina's instructions for Honey Water, I added the Honey powder mainly because I have lots and
wanted to use it up. The Ginger EO was a tester 48gm was all I had, it was the first time I had used it in soap.
Sorry I did not record how much ground oatmeal I added, but let's just say 1/3 cup. Honey water was mixed with
Lye. Honey powder was dissolved in a little extra water and added at trace with oatmeal and EO
Green Tea Facial Soap

 Almond oil
 Avcado oil
 Castor oil
 Cocoa butter
 Coconut oil
 Emu oil
 Olive oil
 Palm kernal oil
 Shea butter
 green tea
 NaOH
 silk fabric
 water
 green facial clay
 green tea FO
Superfatted at 6 %.
Deodorant Soap by Sharon Zakhour

I wanted to create a soap that would really help eliminate body odor. I
researched additives and EO's that would kill both bacteria and odor.
My own tests show that if you leave the suds on a bit (don't wash off
immediately) it does significantly lesson odor.
Accordingly, I'll enter this soap in the "Soaps that Work" theme.
Base Ingredients
 4 oz Almond oil
 4 oz Avocado oil
 3 oz Castor oil
 24 oz coffee (made with distilled water)

 13.4 oz NaOH
Added to melted oils

 5 capsules 400 IU vitamin E (2000 IU total)
Scented with (some warmed oils were added to this blend, then the mix was added back to the warm oils)
 2 oz Lemon Myrtle essential oil (Anne Lee's)

 2 oz Bulgarian Lavender essential oil
 1 oz Egyptian Rose Geranium essential oil
Additives (mixed with some of the warmed oils, then it was added at trace)
 8 Tblsp baking soda

 4 Tblsp powdered sage
 3 Tblsp white kaolin clay
Note
This traces quickly, so be ready.
You can feel the clay when you first start to lather the soap, but when you have suds you don't feel it. Leaves my
hands nice and soft. Hubby says it reminds him of shaving soap....oh well, I wanted a facial bar, so thought I'd try
some green clay in it to set the color and scent.... Still learning.
he orginal peach soap was made with
 32 oz shortening
 8 oz Olive oil
 8 oz Palm oil
 1 oz castor oil
 Water
 NaOH [2% superfat]
 pinch of Silk fibers
Scented with
 Peach fragrance oil
Oatmeal & Vanilla Soap Soap

I chose to do this Oatmeal and Vanilla Soap for the swap (my first) because Handmade Oatmeal is my favorite
soap and Sweet Vanilla EO is my favorite scent..and what could be better than mixing two of your favorite
things?
The vanilla soap is 70% Olive Oil and 30% Coconut Oil with just about a 1/2- 3/4 ounce of Sweet Vanilla EO at
trace. This was cured about a week and then I shredded a 3 ounce bar.
The Oatmeal portion of the soap is simply 20% Olive oil, 40% cococut Oil, 40% palm oil (to equal 40 ounces of
oils) and 4-5 ounces of super finely ground Scottish Oats and Irish Steel Cut Oats, with a sprinkling of plain old
rolled oats for effect, added at trace. There is also 1 ounce of shea butter and cocoa butter (melted) added at trace.
Temps were 120 degrees F.
I brought the Oatmeal soap mixture to light trace and then added the oatmeal, hand stirred until I had a thick
mixture so the Swt Vanilla shreds would be suspended. Added the 3 ounces of shredded Swt Vanilla and melted
cocoa and shea butters and gently stirred to incorporate. Poured into my mold, cut on day 2 and cured for 2
weeks.
Blue Moon Rising
The soap itself was a two part process - I had to make the centre first - which I've dubbed Blue moon rounds. This
is a little scratchy and I've found men like the scratchy soaps more so than women. But I wanted to keep
something that reminded me of the rocks and coral you could be dumped on if you're not respectful of that water
force.
The second part was to use the rounds in the middle of the other batch, with some organic Australian clay used
for swirling in the dark moody clouds that surrounded the moon. Chosen to be a smooth, but mysterious mix of
colours and texture to replicate the night sky.
Well enough of my babbling - here's my recipe - I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoyed creating it for you.
Base Oils:
 Olive Pomace Oil: 500 gr

 Coconut: 250 gr
 Palm: 250 gr
 Castor BP: 40 gr
 Shea Butter Unrefined: 50 gr
Additives:
 EO Blend using Juniper, Patchouli & Geranium: 27 gr

 Clay Black Organic Australian: 3 tsp
 Clay Washed Blue Organic Aust.: 2.5 tsp
Blue Moon Rounds: 850 gr
Lye discount: 8%
Lye needed: 148.4 gr
Water discount: 50 %
Water needed:: 187.9 gr
Notes:
Infused EO's in Castor Oil overnight to blend scents. Melted hard oils except shea and added olive oil, added shea
to it once oils almost melted. Mixed up lye and added to oils, mixed until very light trace then poured a quarter of
mix into one jug and a quarter into another jug. Mixed clay In the jugs until even colour. Then added EO/Castor
mix to each container and mixed in well. Poured uncoloured base into mould poured some colour of each into
base and swirled. Put blue moon rounds in and poured more of three colours over top and swirled. Covered with
glad wrap and put into fridge to prevent gel.
Choko-Nut Soap by Vesna Dolic

Well, I am openly admitting it- I am crazy for chocolate. This soap is directly related to the fact that I am at the
moment on the weight conscious diet and depriving myself of all the things that I looove to eat. Chocolate is the
one that I am missing the most. If I can not have it inside I will have it outside.
You judge-is it good enough to eat?
Vesna Dolic
Ingredients [*]
 141.75 g Almond Oil
 141.75 g Macadamia Nut Oil
 141.75 g Hazelnut Oil
 113.4 g Jojoba Oil
 453.6 g Coconut Oil
 56.7 g Cocoa Butter
 397.0 g Palm Oil
 170.0 g Coconut Milk
 15.0 g Cocoa Powder
 50.0 g Dark Chocolate
 25.0 g Desiccated Coconut(grind it to be less coarse )
 1474 g pure water

 784 g NaOH
 20 mL Essential Oil of Peppermint (Mentha Piperita)

 15 mL Essential Oil of Sweet Orange (Citrus dulcis)
1. Mix water and lye and set aside to cool

2. Take out about 60 g of Almond Oil and melt in chocolate, after which you mix in Cocoa Powder
3. Melt Palm and Coconut oils and Cocoa Butter to desired temperature(35°C),and add other oils to them
4. Heat Coconut milk to the same temperature.
5. Add lye to the Oils and mix them by hand
6. At the trace mix in desiccated coconut
7. Blend in cocoa powder and chocolate mixed in Almond oil, after the trace.
8. Pour mixture into the mould.
9. Set for 24 hours
10. Unmould and cut into the shapes and leave to mature for at least 6 weeks
11. Unfortunately- it is a soap and you can not eat it....
Lusciously Gourmet Honey Bee Chocolate Mint
Ingredients
 11 oz. Shortening
 6 oz. Coconut Oil (76)
 3 oz. Olive Oil
 3 oz. Avocado Oil
 3 oz. Castor Oil
 1 oz. Shea Butter
 2 oz. Cocoa Butter
 1.5 oz. Beeswax
 4.1 oz. Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) About 7% superfat
 11 oz. Water ( 9 oz. mixed with lye & 2 oz held for GM after cook)
Method
 Melted hard oils, butters and wax in the Crock Pot, and mixed lye water. Mixed 2 oz powdered GM with 2
oz. water and put in refrigerator (freezer made it too cold last time). Turned the CP off and added liquid
oils after hard oils & butters were melted.
 Stirred in the lye water.
 Brought to trace with a stick blender (traced very fast, maybe 2 minutes).
 Turned CP back on Low and cooked about 1 hr. (until vaseline stage).
 Turned CP off and added:
o .5 oz Evening Primrose Oil
o 3 tsp. Honey
o Goats Milk (previously in refrigerator)
 Stirred occasionally and waited for temp to reach 130 degrees F
 Mixed in:
o 8 Drops of Vit. E
o 3 tsp. Peppermint EO
 Stirred thoroughly.
 Gradually added 1/8 cup cocoa (powdered) to about 2 cups of the soap and stirred (not smoothly), added
this to the rest of the soap and stirred till swirly looking. Molded and insulated for about 6 hours, let sit in
mold overnight, and unmolded and cut in the morning.
This is my latest creation because:
1. I had used this recipe twice before without the beeswax and cocoa butter. I was trying for a harder bar in a
shorter amount of time. But, alas, I couldn't tell that this bar was any harder than the others after about 1.5
weeks. May even come to some of you a bit soft. I've decided that even though it gets pretty hot here in
Texas, the area I am in is still a little humid, and that must be what keeps the bar from getting really hard
fast. (Any suggestions are welcome).
2. I have never swirled, or colored (except one flop with paprika) before. Not even in Cold Process, so this
was my very first attempt at getting a marbled two tone soap. (I think it did pretty well, although some
bars look better than others, so it may depend on the bar you get as to whether you agree. You may
definitely disagree; I won't be offended, as I will take it as constructive criticism.)
3. I was going for a chocolate mint smell, using only natural ingred. i.e.. Cocoa butter (undeodorized), cocoa,
and peppermint EO. I am usually a little less that satisfied on my scents, but I like this one, I hope you do
too!
4. This is my very first "International Soap Swap"! Actually my very first Real Swap!
I hope you enjoy ALL of your swap soaps. This is soooo much FUN!
BEATNIK POETRY SOAP (Body

Poetry)
 18 oz oil blend of Calendula/Lavender
Infused Oils & Sweet Almond Oil
 38 oz Solid Vegetable Oil
 32 oz Distilled H20
 12 oz Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
 (light green color) 6 oz Olive Oil infused
with Kelp & Home-grown Lemongrass
(strained)
ADDITIVES:
Powdered Kelp, Calendula,Chamomile, Lemongrass, Marjoram & Sage
ESSENTIAL OIL BLEND (4 OZ)
Lemongrass, Grapefruit, Rosemary, Lavender, Cedarwood & Patchouli
METHOD
First infuse the Calendula, Lavender & Lemongrass/Kelp Oils. Strain with Cheese cloth.
Prepare all Additives, EO's etc, Measure out H20 & Sodium Hydroxide, protect countertop, crack a window to
vent & use protective clothing/safety glasses & gloves.
Mix H20/Sodium Hydroxide (Always LYE to H20) Mix well and stick thermometer in it and let it reach 100F in
meantime get molds & supplies organized and heat oils on low temp, when Lye & Oil reach 100, Slowly pour
Lye into Oil, stirring as you do.
Continue to stir for about 15 minutes then switch to stick blender. Go back & forth with crutch (Large wooden
spoon with slots) & stick blender in 15/20 min intervals.
Add Herbs at light trace, continue stirring til it begins to t race. Add EO's, stir and pour into freezer paper lined
molds. Cover & Insulate at least 18 hrs, cut & cure.
ISS6 2004 Theme: INSPIRATION
(All Natural, Vegetable Cold Process Soap)
INSPIRATION: The infusion or imparting of an idea, emotion or mental/spiritual influence, Stimulus to

creativity in thought or action.
BEATNIK: (First appeared-1958) One who rejects the mores of established society dressing & behaving
unconventionally. Indulges in exotic philosophizing & self expression.
AVANT-GARDE: Artists, writers, musicians and the like with new ideas & methods, whose work is innovative,
experimental or unconventional. Belonging to the artistically innovative.
Hence, the Beatnik Poetry Soap is born!
In 1974, My father's job transfer ripped me out of the only culture I had know & transplanted me into the soil of
the south, so foreign!....& so culturally different... I began writing daily, exposing myself to a whole new concept
of coping. Through my interest of poetry & spontaneous prose I accidentally met up with a particular group of
"fellaheens" aka "Beatnik Poets" & that's when I began to explore the "Avant-Garde'"........
My new friends...Kerouac, Ginsberg, DiPrima, Rexroth, Snyder, Lamantia, McClure, Whalen, Orvlosky, Cassidy,
Welch, Corso, Burroughs & Ferlinghetti introduced me to a renewed INSPIRATION, Eastern Spirituality, & a
passion for the arts, literature, & the Avant-garde' each & every time I opened one of their "Pocket Series" books.
My first edition of "The Beatitude Anthology" continues to be a source of inspiration for me.
My Beatnik Poetry Soap is a token for those "Beats" that so inspired me to appreciate the "innovative spirit"
within..
Funny... how a group of literary outcasts help shape our history. Certainly by changing the form of poetry......
SO!.. run your bath, tap into some jazz, grab a cup of espresso & "HOWL" (*)..... with Bohemian's Beatnik Body
Poetry!!!

Luscious Body Butter Recipe

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Luscious Body Butter Recipe

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Luscious body butter recipe

100g shea butter

Anne's Apricot & Almond Soap

15ml Apricot Kernel Oil

Recipie for single bar experimentation

Soap Making Instructions

Hot Process Soap

All Tallow Test Bar

8 ounces tallow (measured when solid)

3 fluid ounces water (distilled or filtered)

1.07 ounces sodium hydroxide (by weight)

All Lard Test Bar

3 fluid ounces water (distilled or filtered)

1.05 ounces sodium hydroxide (by weight)

All Canola Oil Test Bar

8 ounces canola oil (by weight)

3 fluid ounces water (distilled or filtered)

1.05 ounces sodium hydroxide (by weight)

All Peanut Oil Test Bar

3 fluid ounces water (distilled or filtered)

1.03 ounces sodium hyrdroxide (by weight)

All Safflower Oil Test Bar

3 fluid ounces water (distilled or filtered)

1.03 ounces sodium hyrdroxide (by weight)

All Olive Oil Test Bar

3 fluid ounces water (distilled or filtered)

1.03 ounces sodium hyrdroxide (by weight)

Olive, Coconut, & Palm Oil Test Bar

4 ounces olive oil (by weight)

2 ounces coconut oil (by weight)

2 ounces palm oil (by weight)

3 fluid ounces water (distilled or filtered)

1.13 ounces sodium hydroxide (by weight)

from "The Soap Book" by Sandy Maine,

The recipe in the book calls for:

24 ounces cocoanut oil

12 oz. sodium hydroxide (lye)

32 ounces rain, spring, distilled or tap water (I use distilled)

4 oz. essential oil (I combined cinnamon and cloves)

To Make A Basic Soap--

enamel pots and plastic containers.

2 quart plastic pitchers (2 of them--mark one "LYE ONLY")

Long-handled wooden, stainless steel, or plastic spoon

2 kitchen (candy) thermometers (as low as 100 degrees)

Safety glasses or goggles

Wooden or stainless steel ladle

Old blanket or towel (wool is best)

Drying rack covered with plastic canvas

to make sure all lye has dissolved COMPLETELY.

"This is absolutely WRONG...you must always add the lye to

the WATER, not the water to the lye. Pouring water on lye

can, at the least, splash and burn, and at the worst,

create a volcano effect. You must sprinkle the lye flakes

or pellets slowly onto the ice-cold water and stir

constantly to avoid clumping.

water to lye and being badly burned." - Stefan 6/20/00.]

3. Combine fats/oils in sauce pan and melt thoroughly.

needed until you get it right. Don't panic if it takes a while. You'll get

the hang of it. Remember, they MUST be within 5 degrees of each other to

instantly see the change. It will become opaque and grainy.

or trailings". These appear when the mixture has cooled sufficiently to be

ripples, but as faint trails of transparent and opaque mixture. Don't

hour before you give up on the tracings. Sometimes it may be as long as an