Creating Experiences
in the Experience
Economy
Béited by
Jon Sundbo
Professor of Innovation and Business Administration,
Department of Communication, Business and Information
Technologies, Roskilde University, Denmark
Per Darmer
“Associate Professor, Department of Organisation, Copentagen
Business School, Denmark
SERVICES, ECONOMY AND THNOVATION
Edward Elgar
CCettenham, UK + Norhamptce, Ma, USA2. The food and eating experience
Jan Krag Jacobsen
“When you wake upin the morning, Pooh said Pl, wha’ the frst thing you
sayto yoursel”
‘What for breaks said Pook. What do you say, Piglet”
“Tsay, wonder wba going te happen exciting Lo-day sud Piglet.
Pooh nadded thoughtfully "Tc the same thing, he said. (A.A. Milne: Winne-
‘the-Poob, 1926)
‘The role of food and eating has changed fundamentally over the last 50
years in the moderaalfiuent societies of the Western world and in their likes
elsewhere, Ths chapter describes the change and ventures into the poss
bilities for developig several kinds of food-based scenarios relating to this
‘part of the experience economy,
‘Winnie-the-Pooh demonstrates his deep insight into the significance of|
ood and eating, In hstime, in the 1920s, food wasin short supply and large 5
trons of Eeopens were unernurahed, ass the cae nay
Poe around he or »
vaya tact nite bod iso longer a sere and expense
ban somali ae thas cme ly eheap sot for expe
TEE Plog aneomey monly rodurd ndconsuned local Imported 62
‘Sedtvce rhe re: Today ods rom all verte won ae on diy
[Rey perma tasting ow rs.
1 FOOD CULTURE
‘The use of the comept food culture has accelerated and its mes
‘hanged, Earlier in the Danish language, it had a flavour off
14
‘the fact that the
Food has always been
of reat economia foods Now the
B4 Creating experiences inthe experience economy
sowing attention to ood cultre has made nutrition, health and the food
{xperince economy pats of the politica agenda,
Modern food passes through & long and complicated pathway from
nature table and a food cute is constantly being created by the inter.
play of raw materials tools eipes, sil and so on and itis formed by
Climate, geology, history, aesthets, morals, adios, pois, economy,
power relations, echnology, knowledge, education and the et
Food culture isan important key to understanding asoiety or group.
“You are what you et, goes «popular saying. Acquiring the food culture
of the group in which you grow up isa pivotal part of your socalization
process, Threetente for certain foods and esting habits thelast ing
assimunigiaul drops.
tis obvious to most peopl that established at forms ike musi, theatre,
cinema, painting, visual art iteraure and architecture ate natural parts of
the modem experience economy, but for food and eating, the station
seems different. Maybe itis because eating i a fundamental and’ WbiguitOus
biolgial acts. Tissue wil be tented in greater depth later in the
chapter. Whatever, iti interesting 0 note that the word ewe is derived
from the Latin word cllsurdtfieaning the Cultivation of land=>
From an experience economy view it ful to regatd kitchens and
tables tages wht att thre tine ay grodeen xpress
‘phenomena with imniense economic and cultural consequences
2 FOOD:AND CIVILIZATIONS
Aess to sufiient amounts of fod is a absolute condition for ie and
‘human society has emerged and developed asa form of cooperation aimed
at securing a sufficient food supply. We name earlier types of communities
land societies after their way of producing foods, such as gatherers, hunter-
gatherers and agricultural societies. TheVeryprocess of civilaatfoncan as
Borer (3 ) miintaiied, be vegarded as the development of
| puwduction habits
Food is the basis of life and society and most activities can in one way o
another be elated to food. This makes theating experience very complex
and, therefor, the possibilities of developing the expetienes
‘"Toodiand eating arc unlimited,
Formerly, most people prepared thei food from raw materials often
gathered near the home and food was scarce and famine Frequent, Today,
industry has taken over a fairly large proportion of the cooking and the
‘Western world experiences an abundance of food never seen before in the
tong evolution of mankind. The accessibility Is slmost overwhelming.The fod and eat experience 15
‘The development of technology during the industratization of agricul-
ture and eo prodaon bas ed oa sation,
ert rn
Seton oe Sets
people ar nla wih slaughtering. Today, reais neatly cut
and packed and we bu ou bet mead bewingat home Weal eed
{ohavea certain numberof cooking skills but the way we acquire them has
In post-industrial society, the Tact that a sufficient supply of food is stil
the foundation of a society, is obscured. In Denmark, in 1998, the food
supply was jeopardized by a major strike and many Danes hoarded,
Baker's yeas, one of the fundamental ingredients of bread, especialy was
hhoarded. Some individuals hoarded enough yeast to bake several tons of
bread. However, flour was not hoarded to the same degree and it might
have made more sense to hoard rice, pasta, canned foods and so on.
‘This event was remarkable, seen in the light of the development of
European civilization, The ancient Greeks considered bread the emblem of
civilization and running out of bread was the scariest aspect of the strike
in the minds of many Danes. But the knowledge of how to produce it bad.
teen bred
7 are og, an xp net ted hn. Toy 0 oh
thad IO perentot thei ncome ae \
average.
‘taxion food: This new situation has oo changed ater food. p36"
and eating, The obesity epidemic has taken over the scene from malautri-
tion and the food market has become a buyers’ market
‘The consequence of this development is thatthe search for experiences has
taken oer om te snr or appropriate an cheap rbot at, po
teins vtaminsand sone Aus cogent shod
CMSPOTOCEMMGE Is food produ ody basta nd wo ntoducea
new product he/she willhave toanswer questions suchas the following. Which
heyproduc?? Intoswbat kid offeod
ce should it give the customer?
3. THE'RATING EXPERIENCE
CColloguially the terms taste and flavour are used synonymously to describe
the sensations experienced when consuming food. But in the pivaiolopeal
literature taste is connected to the mouth and favour to the nasal cavity. To
understand some erucial aspects of the eating experience it is necessary to
venture ~a little ~ into the physiology of the senses.6 Creating experiences the experience eonony
“The taste buds on the surface of the tongue and parts of the mouth
epithelium are receptors of the ive basic tastes: sour, sweet, salt, biterness
fand ummami,! In the mouth and throat we also experience textue, emper-
ature, false coolness? spicines? and astringency* Some researcher: add a
Gispated sensation of fat (Rolls et a., 1999). The impulses creating these
sensations in the brain are conveyed by the trigeminal nerve and enter the
brain through the thalamus
“The receptor neurones for favour are situated in the 10 em? olfactory
epithelium situated in the oof of the nasel cavity. The volatile lavour mol-
ecules reach the receptors either through the nose or from the back ofthe
‘mouth. The signals from the receptors enter the brain through the ol'actory
bulb situate just above the nasal cavity This system can distinguish between
‘many hundreds of flavours. I makes up a relatively large part of the DNA
tnd isa very old pact of the brain. No wonder that a food searchingsystem
isa very ancient and important part of the nervous system. How thissystem
‘works in detail is still rather unclear. The signals from the receptors enter
Gireetl into the parts of the brain where emotions, memory, sexuality and
‘motivation are processed: the limbic system. Odour information is stored in
the long-term memory and has strong connections to emotional meriory.
Tis rather easy to decide whether a food is sat, sweet, sour or bitter, ora
combination of these tastes, and find the right words to express the sensa-
tion, It is much more difficult to identify and describe a lavour. The use of |
language poses a fundamental problem in relation to the kind of sensual
experiences offered by the olfactoricsystem, A cognitive and linguistic frame-
work cannot capture the experience. Tisis the problem of the wine expert.
Hllshe can easily determine and communicate the taste of the wine, but the
Aevoue poses problems. The metaphors used ae often rather funny, such as
leather, tobacco, forest floor, old ladies violets, and so on. Interestingly, the
favours often the expensive and fickle part ofa wine.
‘The favour of food communicates by reverberating with emoticns and
long-forgotten memories sometimes oulside the reach of language and
consciousness. Everybody is familiar with the experience that a certain
smell or the favour of a food may trigger emotions difficult to explain.
Often the emotions are flt before iti realized that they are caused by a
smell. Sometimes the experience can be pat into words and sometimes not:
“Oh, itsmells like my aunt's sponge cake”
‘A famous example of this phenomenon is found in the novel A la
‘recherche di temps perdu (1913-27) by Marcel Proust. The narrator tastes
‘4 Madeleine cake soaked in ime blossom tea:
1 raised to my ips a spoonful ofthe tain which Thad soaked a mor of the
‘ake No soover had the warm guid mixed with the crumbs touched my palateThe food and eating experince ”
than a shudder ran though me and I stopped, intent upon the extraordinary
thing that was happening to me. Am exquisite pleasure had invaded my senses
omethng lated, detached, with o sbggeston ofits origin... put down
fhe cup and examined my own mind. alone can discoer the wath. And |
‘begin to ask myself what it could ave been, this unremembered state which
brought with ino logical proof, but the indisputable evidence, of is fei, its
realy and in whore presence other sates of consciousness meled and van-
|shed And at s90n ae had recognized the tate ofthe pecs of madeleine
soaked inher decoction of lime-blossom which my aunt sed to give me
‘mmeditely the old grey house upon the suet, where her room as, rose up ike
‘lage et fo attach sll to the Ite pavilion opening on tothe arden which
‘had been bul out behind it for my ents (Shortened)
“Te French Symbolist, among them Ghar BET the at 19th
rar oan three gd ete net
seemed wierd atthe ie Mary F Peehoe 007 iterpet thi os
respons ‘to te fragmevted,debuanized, and materialist guaies of
tnodern fan te Symbolist asiaton with the more” and
Intangible senses of taste (ouch and mel and ther intrest in discovering
ew langage of enatio. :
“Themoder marktis booming with perfumes for both menand women
and there isa uemendovs focus on te taste and frou of food. Ths
could perbps be itrpreted asa response fo te fagmete, dehman-
fied and matenliste qulies of modem ie and atthe same tine
expressing these conditions asthe xu consumption of mass industrial
products
eee, man sOdiologist'Georg Simmel Nas beautifully described how
individual cating ia biological response to hunger when, in company with
others, it leads to a profound social experience.
Yer because his primitive physiological actis an absolutely general man on,
it doesindeed betome the substance of common ations. The ecological struc
tureof the meal emerges, which Inks precisely the exclusive selfshnes of eating
Witha equeney of being together, ath a bait of being gathered together sch
{sis sldom attainable on oszaions of a higher and intelectual ort.
in ths posh hone aed
“in this possiblity, assocted wih the prmitenes and hence universal
Te of materal interest, tere is he immearurblesocologeal sienisno=”
ofthe meal. (Simmel, [910]197)18 Creating experionces nthe experience economy
“These words of GEO Simmel ae pu into perspective by the discovery of
themiror neurones in the brain of primates end the fairly large amount of
evidence suggesting that they are alo present in th human brain. Certain
neurones are active in the brain of a macaque monkey eating a nut, as ae
the same neurones in another macaque sesng the stone chewing the nut
‘These neurons are very important inthe process of learning and social
organization since they seem tobe responsible forthe abiliytoimitate and
feel empathy (Rizzolat and Craighero, 2008. This isin accordance with
the fact tha the fod and eating expericne can onl unfaTits Tull poten-_
co Eatin i i ene yoga
xs heats Fels and digests the food: The mind reads the ‘ously
and unconsciously in the form of activated emotions and memories. In his
worldwide studies of attitudes towards fod, the anthropologist Giaade
ssrubiguitouly met the division of the edible in two categories
according fo good and bad emotions. One ofthe puzles of food eslture
Studies is why some potential foods become regarded as edible and others
not
"A Danish cookbook published in 1837 states that the smile ofthe house-
wifi the most important spice (Mangor, 1837).'A good meal with good
‘Company isa pleasure; so is foreplay and lovemaking; so is a good shit,
writes the grind olf man of performance theory,
{2o07), The total response of the body is at play in the food and eating
experince
* Bain jta78 (1999) coined the concept transformation to