分散染料( Disperse Dye) – Polyester

*濃度: 通常(0.5% 1% 2%) 會依客戶的要求改變

黑色(1%,2%,3%)
ACE 系列(0.25%,0.5%,1%)
Steps:
1.PH4 : 10/cc per/steel bottle
2.DLP 分散均染劑: 0.5g/l
3. 水: 100-10cc(buffer) – 染料用量
4.看濃度多少: ex: 0.5%=5cc 1%= 10cc 2%= 20cc 3%=30cc
5.布: 最後放入鋼杯 (記得要寫記號才會知道 比對 VS 標準 Standard
6. 鋼杯放入機器裡: 染程 130 度 40 分
7.洗布
8.還原洗(R/C): 染程: 85 度 20 分
保險粉 4g/l
Naoh 45% (液鹼) 3g/l
LS- 168( LYS 精練濟) 5g/l (布有 OP,spandex 才用!)
Steps: 鋼杯裡放布, 鹼
※到達預設溫度(85 度) 持溫 3 分鐘後,再放保險粉/TRC
※After that take out bottles and wash the poly--- 脫水—定型

反應性(活性) 染料( Reactive Dye)- Cotton

Reaccionan con el grupo OH de la celulosa en solucion acuosa y en
precensia de alcali formando un enlace covalente con la celulosa.

Etapas de Tintura:
*Migracion 移染性
*Difusion 溶解度
*Absorcion 吸收
*Fijacion 固著力

*濃度: 通常(1%, 2%, 3%) 會依客戶的要求改變

黑色(1%, 3%,5%)
Steps:
1. 染料: 看濃度決定加多少( 0.97%=9.7cc / 1%=10cc)
2. 均染劑(棉均): 0.5g/l
3. 水: 100-buffer-染料
4. 芒硝: 看規定
5. PH10: 鹼(最後加): 1,4cups( 7.5cc) 2,5 3,6cups (10cc)
6. Machine: Put all the steel cup inside .
Let it shake for 10 minutes(常溫 10 分鐘)
Heat up to 60*c 60 min.( 1~2 degrees up per minute)
7. Take cups out and wash the fabric 2-4 times.
8. 酸中和( 因為前面有加鹼)--- 震盪機 10 分鐘
9. 皂洗(Soaping): 皂洗劑 2g/l add 100cc to each cup and put it back to
the 震盪機 95*c 20 minutes.
10.Take out the cups and wash the fabric 1-2times.

11.定型-- 回潮—OD –測色—貼報告.

 酸性染料 (Acid Dye ) – Nylon
1. 泡染料用 97 度的水
2. 酸性均染劑- NH
3. PH- 10 cc 第一排加 PH5 第二,三排加 PH 4
4. 染料
5. 水
6. 50 以下開始下去染 染程- 100 度 40 分

鹽基性染料
Cationic dyes are dyes that can be dissociated into positively charged
ions in the aqueous solution. They can interact with the negative group
on the fiber molecules to form a salt, further firmly being attached to the
fiber so that the fiber is dyed. Cationic dye is a kind of alkaline dye and is
successfully developed on the fundamental of the alkaline dyes.
However, different from the stained principle of the alkaline dyes, the
cationic dye dyes the fiber through the binding of its cation ion to the
acidic group in the third monomer with of the acrylon, thus leading to
high fastness, but can easily lead to uneven dyeing. Therefore, dyeing
retarding agent is often added to improve the dyeing properties. Cationic
dye is the dedicated dye for dying the acrylic fiber. In addition, it can also
be used to modify the dyeing and printing of the polyester and nylon. It
is mainly used for dyeing the polyacrylonitrile fibers. So far, the general
old varieties are still called alkaline dyes with the new varieties called as
cationic dyes.
陽離子染料（cationic dyes）是紡織染料的一種，又稱鹼性染料和鹽
基染料。溶於水中呈陽離子狀態，主要用於腈綸纖維染色。
純腈綸織物都採用浸軋或卷染。染色時始染溫度宜在玻璃化溫度以
下，以 70℃左右為宜。然後緩緩升溫至沸，染色約 1h。染淡色時，
起染溫度要低，升溫時間可長些，染濃色時，起染溫度可高點，升
溫時間可短些。染淡色可在 3Omin 左右，染中色、濃色可在 60～
90min。
CDP Fibre (Cationic Dyeable Polyester Fibre)-陽離子染料可染之聚酯纖
維
在 Polyester 織物上，最令人頭疼的 就是它的昇華與溶劑測試，近期
為改善此二種不良，而研發 CDP 纖維，CDP 它是將能結合陽離子的
磺酸基(SIPE)加入特多龍(Polyester)纖維裏，讓陽離子型的鹽基性染
料更加緊密的與纖維鍵結。 因原本”鹽基性染料”就能些微上色在
特多龍纖維上，再加上此磺酸基的鍵結，改善了 特多龍的 昇華/耐
溶劑 牢度。CDP 在染色時，仍需高溫(120~140)，故須嚴選熱穩定性
高的鹽基性染料。
 水洗牢度 AATCC2A
1. 50 steel balls in each cup.
2. WOB (洗衣劑) for 2A- 1.5 g/l -- 150 cc each cup.
ECE- Adidas
汰漬(Tide)- not often used.
3. 6 纖布- use lighter to burn the sides.
4. Machine – system 22 -- 49 度 45 min
5. Take out the steel cups – 6 纖布翻面--- 烘乾

精煉布
1.精煉劑(LYS) – 2g/l
2.鹼- 2g/l
Cook for 30 – 60 minutes depends in the amount of fabric.
3. Wash the fabric and add 酸(酸中和) 0.5g/l put back to cook for a
while.

WR 撥水 Water Repellent Agent

撥水劑- JD -071
JD- 025
架橋劑- BINDER JD- 300F
*After adding the water repellent to the fabric – 定型
* 水洗要求: 10 洗 20 洗 30 洗 (看客戶)

MEK TEST
Use MEK special liquid( )
Use Nylon100% 200d to cover the fabric 2.5x2.5
2 types of measuring
 20seconds inside MEK liquid
 Take out immediately from MEK liquid

分散性 TEST
染整廠
染整的作業方式？

客戶端下單→調好客人想要的顏色(打色、定色)→檢測染料的牢度、
去除油脂、去除雜質→正式進廠染布(現今染色的機器仍以水洗為
主。)→把貨物送出
特多龍 分散性染料
尼龍 酸性染料
棉 反應性染料