Electronics Repair and Troubleshooting

ECE 401 / Class ECE 4-A

Lesson/Topic : 4
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Testing Electrical and Electronics

Component / Devices with Multimeter
Testing/Checking Cable and Wires
To check if the cable and wires are in good condition or broken
before sizing the proper cable & wire for wiring installation,
we perform the continuity test. For this purpose, take Analog
meter (or Digital Multimeter) and select “Resistance” ( Rotate
the knob to the “Ω” or Resistance).
Now connect both terminals, i.e. both naked ends of the
cable/wire with the Analog or Digital Multimeter terminals. If
the meter reading shown “0 Ω” or nearing “0 Ω”, it means
Cable/Wire is in “Good Condition”. On the other hand, if meter
reading is “Infinite”, it shows the cable/wire may be defective
or broken (open). So you need to replace it with a new one.
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Testing Power Cord
Power cords get a lot of usage and, as a result, they eventually
wear out, causing shorts in the device to which they are
attached. An appliance that won't start can cause you a lot of
hassle. Many times the problem is the result of a bad power cord.

Most power cords have this type of connector.

Unplug the power cord from the device and from the AC outlet.
Failure to do so can result in electrical shock or death.
Testing the Cord. Before you begin diagnosing the cord be sure
your multimeter is set to the continuity setting, found in the ohm
section of your multimeter.
Test for a potential open circuit by using one multimeter lead
to touch one of the prongs on the AC side of power cord. Use the
other lead to touch one end of the console side of the power cord.
If there is an adequate electrical connection, the multimeter will
read an almost “0 Ω”. If not, try using the lead to touch the
other prong.

Repeat the above directions for the other outlet and prong of the
power cord.
If the multimeter fails to read an “0 Ω” on any of the occasions
outlined above, your power cord is open. In other words, you will
need to replace the power cable.
Once you have verified that the power cord provides an adequate
electrical connection, you will have to test that the cable is not
shorted.
Test for a potential short circuit by touching each prong on the
AC side of the power cord.
If the multimeter reads “0 Ω”, your power cord is bad and must
be replaced immediately.
If your power cord is shorted, do not attempt to replug the cord
into the AC outlet.
If your power cord has passed all of the steps above, then you
have successfully tested that your power cord is in working order.
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Testing Switch/Push Buttons
Use the same method (mentioned above for checking the cable and
wires)…to perform this method correctly, you will need to apply
this method in both cases (ON & OFF positions) on switches and
push buttons…In other words, first apply this method on
switches/push buttons and then “Push” the push button and
perform the same method again.

At first attempt, if meter reading is “Zero” and in the second

attempt, the meter reading is infinite, it means
Switch/Push button is in good condition. If meter reading is
“Zero” or “infinite” in both attempts, it means switch is in short
circuit or continuity connection is broken and you should
replace it with a new one.
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Testing Fuse
To verify Fuse condition, i.e. is “Fuse” in good condition or
damaged? … We perform the same method, continuity test as
mentioned above. In short, if the meter reading is “Zero” it
means Fuse is in good condition. If Multimeter reading is
infinite, it means Fuse continuity may be broken or blown.
So you should replace it with a new one immediately.

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Testing LED (Light Emitting Diode)

Before testing a diode, we must identify the diode terminal i.e.
anode and cathode. For LED, the longer terminal of diode is
anode (+) and the shorter terminal is cathode (-). In other
cases, the flat terminal of diode is cathode and the other side
is anode as shown in the figure below:
To test an LED with digital or analog multimeter, follow the
instructions given below:
• Disconnect the LED from the circuit and power supply if it is
already connected in a circuit.
• Find the LED terminal i.e. anode and cathode (as shown in
above fig)

• In case of digital multimeter, set the meter on “Diode

Test” Mode (in case of analog multimeter, set the
multimeter on Resistance or continuity mode ) by
turning the rotary switch of multimeter.
• Connect the LED in forward biased with multimeter test leads
i.e. cathode to black (-ve) and anode to Red (+ve) test leads.
• If the LED glows, it does need to say it is in good condition
and working properly, otherwise LED is defective and it should
be changed.
• In reverse biased (LED anode to Black and cathode to Red
test leads), it won’t work and multimeter won’t show any
reading as LED will not allow the flow of current through it i.e.
it acts like an open switch same as diode.
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Testing Zener Diode

Zener diode is something else as compared to normal diodes as
simple PN junctions diodes operated in forward biased and not in
reverse bias. The case is reverse in case of zener diode as it only
operates in reverse biased when the applied reverse voltage is
greater than the zener breakdown voltage. This way, we need
additional simple circuit to check whether the zener diode is
good or bad.
To check a zener diode with digital or analog multimeter, follow the
instructions below.
• Disconnect the zener diode from the circuit and power supply
if it is already connected in a circuit.
• Find the zener diode terminals i.e. anode and cathode as it is
same as normal LED and PN junction diodes (as shown in
above fig)
• Connect the zener diode across a variable or known (such as
12V DC) supply voltage source in series of 100Ω resistance
and then connect the zener diode reverse bias (cathode to
Red (+ve) and anode to Black (-ve) test leads of multimeter
as shown in fig.

• In both of digital or analog multimeter, set the meter on “DC

Voltage” test mode by turning the rotary switch of
multimeter.
• Increase the supply voltage gradually to the zener diode and
note the meter reading displayed on screen. The meter
 reading should increase until the breakdown voltage of zener
diode (in case of 12VDC supply voltage, the breakdown
voltage is 6V) when you increase the supply voltage step by
step from low to high. After this, meter should not show
additional value i.e. it must shows a constant value (Such as
6V in case of 12VDC supply voltage). When meter stop at
specific value and not showing another value when you still
increasing the supply voltage, you should not continue to
increase the supply voltage otherwise, diode may destroy.

• If it is the case, the zener diode is in good condition

otherwise, the zener diode is faulty and need to be
changed.
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Testing/Checking Relay Coils & SSR Relay

To test an SSR (Solid state relay) and electromechanical relay coils
by using multimeter, You will have to follow the detailed and step
by step guide about “How to Test a Relay, Checking SSR & Coil
Relays”.
Before testing any relay you need to know about the relay itself.
➢ What is a Relay?
A relay is an electromechanical switch. It controls a circuit using
a very low current that energizes the coil. The coil generates a
magnetic field which attracts a movable lever (pole) to change the
switch position.
➢ Terminals Of Relay
In general SPDT (Single pole double throw) type of relay, there
are Five terminals.
 • Two of them are coil input terminals, which is basically the
control input (activates & deactivates the relay)
• The common terminal is the feeding input of the high
voltage circuit. This input is passed through the pole (switch)
of the relay to either NO terminal or NC terminal.
• Normally opened (NO) terminal is that terminal of the relay
whose connection with common terminal remains open
when the relay is deactivated. It closes when the relay
activates.
• Normally closed (NC) terminal is the other terminal of relay
whose connection with common terminal remains closed
until the relay activates.
➢ Terminal Identification
Usually, the terminals are specified on the protective cover of the
relay. if there is no information about its terminals then you can
identify it using an Ohmmeter.
 • The coil has a resistance of fewer than 400 ohms except
for some cases. so the terminals having resistance
around 300 ohms will be the coil terminals.
• The NC terminal has almost 0-ohm resistance with
respect to the common terminal when the relay is
deactivated.
• The NO terminal has infinite resistance with respect to
the common terminal when the relay is deactivated.

Operation Of Relay
Deactivated mode: When there is no power source connected to
the coil input, the current will flow through the Common
terminal to NC terminal.
Activated mode: when the coil is energized, the current will only
flow from common terminal to NO terminal.
Relay Coil Test:
This test is performed to examine the coil condition
(open or closed or shorted turns). This problem occurs due to
exceeding the input voltage of the coil. The operating input
parameter’s min & max limits are specified in its datasheet.

Using Multimeter
There are two modes in multimeter which can be used to test a
relay.
(a) Continuity Test Mode
The main purpose of this test is to check the continuity of the coil.
• Set the multimeter in continuity test mode.
• Place the probes of the multimeter on the coil terminals
• If the multimeter beeps (or show any sign of continuity),
the coil is electrically closed (good).
• If the multimeter does not beep, the coil is open &
damaged. The relay needs to be replaced.
If your meter does not have a continuity function or for some
reason does not show any sign of continuity then use the second
method.
Unfortunately, if you test a relay using this continuity method it
will not reveal any turns of the coil that has been shorted.
 (b) Resistance Mode
If you choose to test a relay using Ohmmeter, you need to do a
bit of research beforehand. You need to know about the nominal
value of the coil resistance from its datasheet. You can find its
datasheet online by using the model number usually written on its
protective case.
However, most of the time the resistance of the coil lies
beneath 400 ohms.
• Set the multimeter in Ohmmeter.
• Place the probes on both terminals of the coil.
• Record the resistance shown in the multimeter.
If the measured resistance matches the resistance mentioned in
its datasheet, the relay coil is fine.
If the resistance is very low or very high, the coil most likely
has short turns or opened respectively.

Note: AC coil power relays have high coil resistance (usually

higher than 10kohm). So you need to make sure what type of
relay you are testing.

How to Test a Solid State Relay (SSR)

Testing Solid State Relay in Diode Test Mode (DMM)
To test a solid state relay by using digital multimeter, follow the
steps given below:
• Rotate the multimeter knob to the “Diode Test Mode”.
 • Connect the A1(+) and A2(-) terminals to the multimeter
according to the schematic.
• If the relay is in good condition, multimeter will show 0.7 (In
case of silicon transistor) or 0.3 (in case of germanium
transistor)
• If multimeter shows “0” or “OL”, its mean that the relay is
damaged and faulty.

Testing Solid State Relay in Resistance Mode

The input end can be tested with a multimeter. The multimeter is
placed in the "R×10k" gear, the black test lead (the positive
electrode of the battery in the meter) is connected to the positive
electrode of the SSR input terminal, and the red test lead (that is,
the negative electrode of the battery in the meter) is connected to
the negative electrode of the input terminal of SSR. The meter
pointer should deflect more than halfway. Re-testing after
swapping the two test leads, the meter pointer should not move.
If the needle deflects to the top or does not move
regardless of the forward or reverse voltage access, the
solid-state relay has been damaged.
You can also make a test circuit according to the figure below.
For a good relay, when the control voltage of the SSR input
terminal is turned on, the light-emitting diode VD is on; when the
control voltage of the SSR input terminal is cut off, the light-
emitting diode VD is off.

General Precaution
• Disconnect the power source before checking, servicing,
repairing or installing electrical equipment and devices.
• Always, select the higher value in Digital or analog
Multimeter, and then, gradually reduce it to the proper value.
• Never try to work on electricity without proper guidance and
care.
• Read all instruction and cautions and follow them strictly.

Testing a Speaker
The speaker needs to be disconnected from the amplifier. If the
speaker cable itself has a ¼ inch connector to the amplifier, you
can actually test the speaker from the cable. If the cable
connectors to the speaker are terminal receptacles, you will need
to slide them off the terminals. If the cables are soldered on, then
you will need to heat them up with a soldering iron and remove
them. Once the speaker is disconnected from the amplifier you are
ready to test.
Testing the speaker

There are two common ways to test a speaker. If you’re in a

pinch, you can use a 9-volt battery. The more accurate way, if you
have the tools, is to use a multimeter. These two methods can be
used when testing a mid-range or lower frequency woofer. Testing
a tweeter is a little different. We will discuss this later.

Test using a 9V battery.

Test using a multimeter.

……Test with a battery
You will need a 9-volt battery and two small single conductor cables
to connect the battery to the speaker terminals. The easiest thing
is to get a 9-volt battery connector (like one in a guitar pedal).
Then, connect that to the battery. Also, if the spacing of the
terminals are right, you might be able to touch the battery to the
terminals without the use of wires at all.
A 9V battery adapter.
Battery process
Prepare the battery by placing one of each of the wires on each of
the battery terminals. If you have a battery connector, connect it
to the battery. Now quickly touch the cable leads, positive to
positive and negative to negative, to the speaker terminals. Keep
in mind, do this immediately! We don’t want the DC voltage of the
battery applied to the speaker for an extended period of time. Now,
if the speaker is working, it will move and make a pop
sound when the battery touches the speaker terminals. If
it is not working, the speaker will not move or make a
sound.
A few guidelines when using the battery method
• Touch the positive side of the battery to the positive side of
the speaker and the negative to the negative.
• Only touch the battery to the terminals for a quick moment.
• It is best to use a partially discharged battery.

Test with a multimeter

To use the multimeter, set it to read resistance. It may have an
ohms symbol for this setting. After this, place the leads of the
multimeter on the speaker terminals. You can touch the positive
and negative leads to either terminal when reading resistance. If
you have a 4 ohm (impedance) speaker, it could measure the
resistance on the multimeter between 2 and 3.4 ohms, an 8 ohms
speaker could measure between 5 to 7 ohms, and a 16 ohms
speaker might measure between 12 to 14 ohms. If a speaker
measures very low or no resistance, then it is bad. This means
there is a short inside the speaker. If the speaker measures a very
high resistance, it is also bad. This means there is a broken
connection in the speaker. Either way, the speaker will need to be
replaced.
A background on impedance and resistance
If you have a multimeter, you can get an accurate reading of the
resistance of the speaker. Let’s understand a little about what it is
we are reading. The impedance of the speaker, measured in ohms,
is typically listed on the back of the speaker. This value deals with
an AC signal (alternating current), the electrical signal that causes
a speaker to move. The ohm value, listed on the back of the
speaker, is the nominal impedance. Frequency response will
change the speaker’s impedance as the speaker moves, so this
value is not constant. When you measure with a multimeter, you
measure resistance (also measured in ohms). This value deals with
DC (direct current) that is applied to the speaker. This value will
be slightly lower than the impedance value of the speaker.

Multimeter reading of a nonworking speaker.

 Multimeter reading on a working speaker.

Testing a tweeter
Piezo tweeters, often on bass guitar cabinets, work a little
differently. These speakers have a crystal element, not a moving
voice coil. Measuring them with a multimeter will often give you
results that could make you think the speaker is bad. The best way
to test them is to QUIETLY play a signal through them, listen to
it, then see if it produces sound. If it does not, or sounds bad, the
speaker needs replacing. There’s nothing too scientific about this
test.
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