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Open-Ocean Barrier Islands: Global in Uence of Climatic, Oceanographic, and Depositional Settings
Open-Ocean Barrier Islands: Global in Uence of Climatic, Oceanographic, and Depositional Settings
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ABSTRACT
STUTZ, M.L. and PILKEY, O.H., 2011. Open-ocean barrier islands: global influence of climatic, oceanographic, and
depositional settings. Journal of Coastal Research, 27(2), 207–222. West Palm Beach (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A satellite-based inventory of barrier islands was used to study the influence of depositional setting, climate, and tide
regime on island distribution and morphology. The survey reveals 20,783 km of shoreline occupied by 2149 barrier
islands worldwide. Their distribution is strongly related to sea level history in addition to the influence of tectonic
setting. Rising sea level in the late Holocene (5000 YBP–present) is associated with greatest island abundance, especially
on North Atlantic and Arctic coastal plains. Stable or falling sea level in the same time frame, a pattern typical of the
Southern Hemisphere, is associated with a lower abundance of islands and a higher percentage of islands along deltas
rather than coastal plains. Both coastal plain and deltaic island morphology are sensitive to the wave–tide regime;
however, island length is 40% greater along coastal plains whereas inlet width is 40% greater on deltas. Island
morphology is also fundamentally affected by climate. Island lengths in the Arctic are on average (5 km) only half the
global average (10 km) because of the effect of sea ice on fetch and thus wave energy. Storm frequency in the high and
middle latitudes is suggested to result in shorter and narrower islands relative to those on swell-dominated low-latitude
coasts. The ratio of storm wave height to annual mean wave height is a good indicator of the degree of storm influence on
island evolution. The potential for significant climate and sea level change this century underscores the need to improve
understanding of the fundamental roles that these two factors have played historically in island evolution in order to
predict their future impacts on the islands.
ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Sea level rise, deltas, storms, climate, wave energy, morphology.
Table 1. Geopolitical distribution of barrier islands showing total primary sources used to identify barrier islands were Earthsat
number of islands, percentage of the world’s total, and total length Geocover Landsat mosaics, topographic maps, and hydro-
in kilometers.
graphic maps. Full-resolution (30-m) satellite mosaics dis-
Continent Islands (n) % Total Length (km)
played at a scale of approximately 1:75,000, and map sources
varied from 1:24,000 to 1:250,000. Each island chain was
North America subtotal 663 30.9 7611
classified according to geologic setting, wave–tide regime, and
Arctic Ocean 272 12.7 1184
Atlantic Ocean 161 7.5 2287
climate (Table 2).
Gulf of Mexico 116 5.4 2398 The geologic (i.e., depositional) setting was categorized as
Pacific Ocean 114 5.3 1742 either coastal plain or delta (Figure 1). Coastal plain islands as
Asia subtotal 530 24.7 4475 defined in this study as islands built across the mouths of
Arctic Ocean 203 9.4 1441 flooded river valleys, usually on broad coastal plains. The
Indian Ocean 159 7.4 1648 islands consist of sediment eroded or transported from the
Pacific Ocean 130 6.0 1124 continental shelf or subaerial headlands, whereas modern
Persian Gulf 34 1.6 230
fluvial sediment is sequestered in estuaries. The origin of the
Red Sea 4 0.2 32
eroded sediment is highly variable, including but not limited to
Africa subtotal 354 16.5 3527
Pleistocene beach and barrier island deposits (e.g., Sea Islands,
Indian Ocean 259 12.1 1631
Georgia), glacial deposits (e.g., Long Island, New York),
Atlantic Ocean 74 3.4 1587
Mediterranean Sea 21 1.0 309 thermokarst topography (e.g., Beaufort Sea, Canada), and
shelf carbonate sediment (e.g., Abu Dhabi, United Arab
Australia subtotal 253 11.8 1726
Emirates).
Indian Ocean 127 5.9 824
Pacific Ocean 75 3.5 575 Deltaic islands consist of fluvial sediments delivered directly
Indonesia/Papua New Guinea 44 2.0 248 to active and recently abandoned deltaic lobes. Examples of
Southern Ocean 6 0.3 55 previously studied deltaic barrier island systems include the
New Zealand 1 0.1 24
Mississippi (Penland, Suter, and Boyd, 1985), Niger (Allen,
South America subtotal 196 9.1 2039 1965), Copper (Hayes and Ruby, 1994), and Indus deltas (Wells
Pacific Ocean 114 5.3 982 and Coleman, 1984). Overall deltaic morphology and barrier
Atlantic Ocean 72 3.4 898
island morphology on deltas is highly variable (Stutz and
Caribbean Sea 10 0.5 159
Pilkey, 2002) as a function of fluvial, wave, tidal, and sediment
Europe subtotal 153 7.1 1405
variability (Galloway, 1975). Ambiguities arise in this classi-
Mediterranean Sea 71 3.3 391
fication where fluvial sediment is dispersed alongshore beyond
Atlantic Ocean 33 1.5 292
North Sea 31 1.4 472 the boundaries of the delta plain. In such cases, islands that
Black Sea 12 0.6 202 extend downdrift from the delta plain are counted as deltaic
Baltic Sea 6 0.3 48 islands if there is no break in the island chain.
WORLD TOTAL 2149 100.0 20,783 The mean annual wave height for each island was calculated
from the average of 12 monthly means contained in the Marine
Climatic Atlas of the World (U.S. Navy, 1995). Mean tidal
METHODS amplitude was obtained from global tide tables (National
Ocean Service, 1999). The wave–tide regime was determined
A new global survey of barrier islands was conducted with by plotting the mean annual wave height and mean tidal
the Earthsat Geocover Landsat mosaic combined with a large amplitude on a classification chart (Figure 2) based on
number of topographic and navigational charts. The Earthsat Fitzgerald and Van Heteren (1999). Four classes are used in
data (National Aeronautics and Space Administration, 1999) this study: wave dominated, mixed energy wave dominated,
form a powerful new dataset that allows improved recognition mixed energy tide dominated, and tide dominated.
of barrier islands and more accurate assessment of their The annual maximum wave height was also calculated by
morphologic characteristics. Google Earth arrived toward the adding two standard deviations to the highest of the 12
end of the study and was used to verify and amplify some of the monthly mean wave heights. The maximum wave height was
observations. The global survey provides the basis for an not used to determine the wave–tide regime; however, it was
analysis of islands according to climate, wave–tide regime, and used as a climatic parameter as a proxy for storminess.
geologic settings (Table 2). These factors were chosen because The climate classification was based on a composite map of
they are easily recognized and vary globally. Specific geologic coastal zonality (Kelletat, 1995) using the following five
data, such as sediment grain size or stratigraphy, are simply categories: arctic, temperate, arid, subtropical (alternate wet
unknown for most barrier islands and cannot be adequately and dry seasons), and tropical (wet).
evaluated. The distribution, morphology, and evolution of The morphology of islands was measured on topographic
islands are considered within this framework. maps, navigation charts, and satellite images. Island length
Barrier islands identified in this study fit the criteria was measured as the true shoreline length with a planimeter.
suggested by Oertel (1985) that have lagoon, tidal inlet, Island width and lagoon width were calculated as the average
shoreface, and mainland elements in association with the of at least three evenly spaced transects, not exceeding 2 km
island. Bay mouth barriers (Roy et al., 1994) were not included, between transects. Inlet width was measured at the narrowest
and spits were included only if adjacent to an island. The portion of the channel throat perpendicular to the channel axis.
Table 2. Geology, climate, and wave–tide regime of prominent barrier island chains shown on the map in Figure 2.
ARE 5 Argentina, AUS 5 Australia, BRA 5 Brazil, COL 5 Columbia, EGY 5 Egypt, ITA 5 Italy, MDG 5 Madagascar, MEX 5 Mexico, MOZ 5 Mozambique,
NGA 5 Nigeria, NGA–GHA 5 Nigeria–Ghana, NLD–DEU 5 the Netherlands–Germany, PAK–IND 5 Pakistan–India, RUS 5 Russia, USA 5 United States,
VNM 5 Vietnam.
RESULTS seas. Our results (Table 3) indicate 63% of barrier islands are
on trailing edge margins, 16% on collisional margins, and 21%
The Global Distribution of Barrier Islands in marginal seas.
The proportion of coastal plain to deltaic islands varies
Based on the selected criteria (Oertel, 1985), we can
significantly from region to region. Coastal plain islands make
recognize 2149 individual barrier islands totaling 20,783 km up 73% of the total on trailing margins and marginal seas. Of
in length (Figure 3), revising an earlier estimate by Stutz and barrier islands on collisional margins, 58% are deltaic islands
Pilkey (2001) of 1492 islands totaling 15,100 km. The revision because deltas provide the low gradient that supports island
was possible due to a subsequent expansion of the Earthsat formation along with abundant sediment. Coastal plain islands
Geocover database of Landsat mosaics. Most of the islands are clearly most abundant along the Atlantic, Gulf of Mexico,
added to the revised estimate are not part of ‘‘major’’ island and Arctic coasts of North America and Eurasia, where 95% of
chains but nonetheless have a large cumulative impact on the all barrier islands are found on coastal plains. These temperate
total. The new total represents about 10% of all continental and Arctic barrier island systems also represent 40% of all
shorelines (210,000 km) or 6% of the combined coastline of islands worldwide. Coastal plain islands make up a lesser
continents and large islands (346,000 km) as reported by proportion in subtropical, tropical, and desert climates,
Inman and Nordstrom (1971). ranging between 40 and 70% of the total.
Table 3 summarizes island distribution according to tectonic Seventy-four percent of barrier islands are found in the
setting, depositional setting, climate, and wave–tide regime. Of Northern Hemisphere (Table 4). The greater number of islands
the total, 68% barrier islands occur on coastal plains vs. 32% in the Northern Hemisphere is expected since approximately
along the rims of deltas. Of the islands, 39% are wave 70% of the world’s coastline, excluding Antarctica, is north of
dominated, 49% are mixed energy (wave or tide dominated), the equator. However, interesting differences exist between the
and only 12% are tide dominated. The distribution according to environmental distribution of Northern and that of Southern
climate is 23% arctic, 23% temperate, 10% desert, 30% Hemisphere islands (Table 4). One striking difference is the
subtropical, and 14% tropical. climatic distribution. In the Northern Hemisphere, 61% of
Glaeser (1978) demonstrated the strong tendency for barrier islands lie in temperate or arctic zones compared to just 2% in
islands to be located on tectonically stable, trailing edge the Southern Hemisphere, where 96% of islands are either
continental margins as defined by Inman and Nordstrom tropical or subtropical. A second major difference lies in the
(1971). These margins are typically characterized by wide, low- wave and tidal regimes. In the Northern Hemisphere, 51%
relief coastal plains with shallow embayed estuaries. Glaeser islands are wave dominated compared to just 5% of Southern
(1978) reported 49% of barrier islands along trailing edge Hemisphere islands, another likely reflection of the latitudinal
margins, 24% on collisional margins, and 27% along marginal distribution of landmasses.
Figure 1. The Outer Banks, North Carolina (A), and Malpeque, Prince Edward Island (B), are excellent examples of coastal plain barrier island systems.
The mainland rivers empty their discharge and sediment into the broad bays. The Mississippi Delta (C) and Niger Delta (D) provide classic examples of
deltaic barrier islands. The islands are located along abandoned (Mississippi) or active (Niger) depositional lobes. (Earthsat Geocover, 2000.)
Geologic Influence on Island Morphology resulting in larger inlets. Lagoon width on deltas is likely
larger due to the presence of wide, low-relief deltaic plains.
A global comparison of the average morphologic parameters Subsidence of deltas causes progressive lagoonal expansion on
for coastal plain and deltaic island systems reveals fundamen- Mississippi Delta barrier islands (Penland, Suter, and Boyd,
tal differences between these two settings. Coastal plain 1985). The size of coastal plain lagoons can be highly variable
islands are on average 40% longer than deltaic islands (9.8 and is often influenced by inherited geologic factors. Inheri-
vs. 6.9 km) whereas inlets are 40% narrower (0.9 vs. 1.4 km). tance is illustrated well in North Carolina, where Pleistocene
The tendency for longer islands and narrower inlets in coastal barrier islands control the lagoon width (Riggs, Cleary, and
plain systems is consistent relative to each of the four wave– Snyder, 1995). The Outer Banks island system in northern
tide regimes. The average width of coastal plain islands is also North Carolina is separated from the Pleistocene shoreline by
significantly larger (0.8 km) than the average width of deltaic the immense Pamlico and Albemarle Sounds, up to 100 km
islands (0.5 km), whereas lagoon widths of coastal plain islands wide. The islands south of Cape Lookout, North Carolina, are
are much narrower (2.6 vs. 4.3 km). separated by no more than a few kilometers from the relict
The large difference between the mean attributes of coastal Pleistocene shoreline. The greater lagoon width on deltas also
plain and those of deltaic barrier islands can be attributed to contributes to a larger tidal prism for equal tidal amplitude,
differences in the fundamental dynamic processes in the two favoring larger or more numerous inlets. Island lengths on
environments. Deltaic inlets generally must accommodate the deltas are constrained by the spacing of distributary channels,
tidal prism in addition to river discharge, possibly a factor which generally results in shorter islands. Distributary
Hemisphere
Northern 1596 74 16,472
Southern 553 26 4312
Tectonic setting
Trailing 1354 63 12,378
Marginal 455 21 5210
Collisional 340 16 3196
Depositional setting
Coastal plain 1464 68 15,043
Delta 685 32 5740
Climate
Arctic 468 22 2819
Temperate 521 24 5980
Desert 216 10 2552
Subtropical 639 30 6217
Tropical 305 14 3216
Wave–tide regime
Wave dominated 843 39 10,395
Figure 2. A graphic plot of mean annual wave height and mean tidal
Mixed wave dominated 411 19 3697
amplitude used to classify the wave–tide regime of a barrier island chain,
Mixed tide dominated 642 30 5176
showing examples cited in the text. (Modified from Davis and Hayes, 1984;
Tide dominated 253 12 1515
Fitzgerald and Van Heteren, 1999.)
Table 4. Barrier island distribution in the northern (N) and southern Table 5. Coastal plain and deltaic island morphology as a function of
(S) hemispheres. wave–tide regime.
Geographic Setting N Hemisphere (%) S Hemisphere (%) Mean Island Length (km) Mean Inlet Width (km)
Tectonic setting Wave–Tide Regime Coastal Plain Delta Coastal Plain Delta
Trailing 56 84 Wave dominated 13.8 7.2 0.9 0.8
Marginal 23 15 Mixed wave
Collisional 21 1 dominated 8.4 7.9 0.9 1.0
Total 100 100 Mixed tide dominated 7.3 6.6 1.0 1.8
Depositional setting Tide dominated 3.5 4.6 0.7 2.5
Coastal plain 70 62 Average 9.8 6.9 0.9 1.4
Delta 30 38
Total 100 100 (Figure 7) are probably responsible for reducing both the
Climate
penetration and the volume of overwash and aeolian sands
Arctic 30 0
Temperate 32 2
(Allen, 1965; Martinez et al., 1995).
Desert 13 1
Subtropical 11 82 DISCUSSION
Tropical 14 15
Total 100 100
Barrier Island Formation and Evolution
Wave–tide regime
Barrier islands are generally acknowledged to form along
Wave dominated 51 5
Mixed wave dominated 19 18
shorelines having a low gradient, available sediment, and
Mixed tide dominated 23 50 energetic sediment transport. Along with sea level fluctua-
Tide dominated 7 27 tions, these factors control the morphology and evolution of the
Total 100 100 islands (Woodroffe, 2003). We briefly discuss the roles of these
factors in light of the distribution and morphologic data
compiled in this study.
frequency and influence of vegetation. Perhaps the most critical
is the control by sea ice of the summer fetch on Arctic islands Gradient
that make up 23% of the total global island number. Winter
freeze-up makes the islands impervious to winter storms (Hill et Barrier islands occur most abundantly on low-gradient
al., 1994). In addition, permafrost is believed to act as a form of coasts because they may easily straighten the shoreline across
shoreline armoring. The observed increased seasonal melting of shallow embayments. Globally, the largest influence on coastal
permafrost may be adding significantly to Arctic barrier island gradient is the tectonic setting. Of all barrier islands, 63% are
retreat. Arctic islands are less than half the average length of on tectonically trailing continental margins vs. 16% on leading-
islands in any other climatic setting (Figure 4). edge continental margins and 21% along marginal sea coasts.
Desert and subtropical barrier islands may have beachrock The lower gradients on trailing margins offer more numerous
holding shorelines in place, preventing or slowing migration shallow embayments for barrier island formation. Seventy-six
and hence allowing extensive accumulations of dune and percent of barrier islands on trailing edges are classified as
perhaps overwash sand on an island. The Abu Dhabi desert coastal plain islands. On steeper leading-edge margins, island
islands in the Persian Gulf (Figure 5A) are lined with formation would require a greater volume of sediment. Deltas
beachrock, producing an unusual sharply angular outline of thus provide the site for 58% of islands on leading-edge coasts
because they create both the necessary gentle gradient and the
the islands (Pilkey, 2003). In addition, the warm saline waters
sediment volume. Where local tectonics causes subsidence on
of the Persian Gulf favor oolite production in the shallow wave-
these active margins, e.g., in Colombia, barrier islands can be
agitated waters of the ebb tidal deltas—the primary source of
particularly abundant (Martinez et al., 1995).
sediment for the Abu Dhabi islands (Purser and Evans, 1973).
Bazaruto Island, Mozambique (Figure 5B), has extensive
Sea Level History
beachrock representing at least two earlier sea level cycles,
as well as widespread aeolianite cementing the frontal dunes McGee (1890), Leontyev (1965), Hoyt (1967), and Swift
(Cooper and Pilkey, 2002). The large unvegetated sand sheet (1975) each recognized sea level rise as a fundamental reason
visible on the image Bazaruto, more than 100 m high, for the formation and present existence of Holocene barrier
represents a new modern phase of dune building. Lack of islands. Sea level rise creates embayed coasts that may be
vegetation is characteristic of desert islands such as the Baja straightened out by barrier island construction, as first
Peninsula, Mexico (Figure 6A). Hot dry islands such as envisioned by Gilbert (1885). Embayments can be produced
southern Padre Island, Texas, are also favorable environments by drowning fluvial valleys (e.g., eastern North America),
for the development of backbarrier aeolian tidal flats in thermokarst topography (e.g., North Slope, Alaska), or lime-
hypersaline lagoons (Morton, 1994; Figure 6B). These tidal stone karst topography (e.g., Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico).
flats widen the barrier island by aeolian transport, and they Embayments are abundant on deltaic coasts (e.g., Mississippi
remain unvegetated by salt marsh or mangroves due to the Delta) adjacent to depositional lobes. If an embayment is
high salinity in Laguna Madre. Rainforests on tropical islands sufficiently shallow and the sediment supply is large enough,
Figure 5. (A) In the Persian Gulf, the shoreline is pinned by underlying relict limestone. (B) Beachrock has formed a fixed headland on Bazaruto Island in
Mozambique. (Google Earth, 2006.)
Figure 6. (A) Aeolian activity and sand sheets, such as these along the Baja Peninsula, Mexico, are typical in desert climates. (B) Padre Island, Texas, has
broad wind–tidal flats along the lagoonal margin. Construction of these flats is an island-widening process. The lack of salt marsh and mangroves on the tidal
flats is due to the high salinity of Laguna Madre. (Earthsat Geocover, 2000.)
Figure 10. Cedar Island, North Carolina, is located within Pamlico Sound
and is a fetch-limited island (Pilkey, Cooper, and Lewis, 2009). The
presence of the Outer Banks limits the fetch in Pamlico Sound. Cedar
Island faces northeast, the direction of greatest fetch and strong storm
winds. Winter storms and hurricanes tracking offshore can generate large
storm surges and waves, but wave activity is negligible in calm weather.
(Earthsat Geocover, 2000.)
Figure 9. Four generalized relative sea level curves corresponding to the
four regions shown in Figure 8. Barrier islands are most abundant in zones
2 and 3, where relative sea level rise has occurred since the mid-Holocene.
resulting from a change in wave climate will possibly lead to the
rapid breakup of many islands. Sea level rise also has the
significant potential to increase the impact of storms globally.
a number of narrow barrier islands in Banda Aceh, Indonesia
The difference between ‘‘average’’ and ‘‘extreme’’ wave
(Figures 11A and B). Only large, wide barrier islands could
withstand these types of events. conditions is significant across broad climatic boundaries.
Although the importance of storm impacts on barrier islands
Low-energy, open-ocean barrier islands may be particularly
is well known, storms are not factored into barrier island
susceptible to a change in wave and storm climate brought on
by climate change. The Arctic is home to almost 25% of the classification systems.
world’s barrier islands despite its limited fetch and low waves, The frequency of storms varies by latitude and climate. Due
averaging less than 0.4 m annually and with no waves present to frequent storms, Arctic and many temperate coasts
during the Arctic winter. The average length and width of experience a storm wave climate (Davies, 1980). Low-latitude
Arctic barrier islands exhibit a strong correlation to fetch and coasts experience few storms and a swell wave climate that is
wave height (Figure 12) and are overall much smaller than consistent year-round.
islands in any other climate. In the Arctic, and in other low- One way to predict the relative importance of storms and
energy settings, barrier islands owe their small size to the storm waves on barrier islands is to determine the ratio of the
limited availability of wave energy to drive longshore and maximum storm wave height relative to the mean height.
cross-shore sediment transport. Since 1950, thinning sea ice Arctic islands have storm–to–mean wave height ratios greater
(Serreze et al., 2000) has increased the fetch along Arctic coasts than 5, temperate islands have ratios between 3 and 5, and
and is exposing Arctic islands to greater wave energy. tropical islands have ratios of less than 3. These groups of
Furthermore, the fast-ice season between autumn and spring islands plot along different trajectories in Figure 13.
has shortened by several weeks as freezing occurs later and The ratios reveal that Arctic islands by far are the most storm
melting earlier. Thawing permafrost within islands also dominated—often the only sediment transport on Arctic
contributes to island vulnerability in the Arctic. With ice loss islands occurs during summer and autumn storms (Hill et al.,
accelerating, it appears more likely that the entire Arctic 1994). Thus, the features observed on those islands are
Ocean will be ice free in the summer well before the end of the predominantly generated during storms. Tropical islands,
century, resulting in more open-ocean conditions throughout meanwhile, evolve primarily in response to fair-weather swells
the Arctic. and rarely experience storms. These islands should display few
Today’s Arctic barrier islands are dramatically out of storm-related features.
equilibrium with an open-ocean wave climate. Recently Evidence of overwash and inlet formation is abundant in
determined erosion rates in the Beaufort Sea average 2 m/y storm-dominated settings, particularly along microtidal or
(Reimnitz, Graves, and Barnes, 1988; Hequette and Ruz, 1991) wave-dominated coasts (Hayes, 1979). In the Arctic, a majority
or roughly three to four times average erosion rates in the of the islands are composed exclusively of overwash deposits.
continental United States. Further acceleration of these rates Mixed-energy islands (Hayes, 1979) do not possess the same
Figure 11. (A) Indonesian barrier islands near the city of Banda Aceh before the December 26, 2004, tsunami. (Earthsat Geocover, 2000.) (B) The barrier
islands were completely destroyed by the tsunami. (Google Earth, 2006.) (C) The Chandeleur Islands in Louisiana before Hurricane Katrina. (Earthsat
Geocover, 2000.) (D) Much of the island chain was destroyed by Katrina’s storm surge of more than 7 m. (Google Earth, 2006.)
abundance of storm-related features, both because storm surge length or inlet frequency can be a highly variable island
can be carried inland through existing tidal inlets rather than characteristic over brief periods on a decadal scale due to the
across islands and because storm impacts are diminished effects of storms. According to Mason and Jordan (1997), 18th-
during low tidal stages. and 19th-century explorers of the Bering Sea Alaskan shores
Low-latitude barrier islands differ considerably from islands reported more numerous inlets than are present today. They
in storm-prone higher latitudes. The near absence of storms attribute the decrease in inlet frequency and the increase in
close to the equator means that low-latitude barrier islands island length to a decrease in storminess. Also, historical charts
experience a swell-dominated wave climate (Davies, 1980). from the late 17th through the 20th centuries show that more
Swell waves typically promote accretion and the development than 20 inlets have existed on the North Carolina Outer Banks
of beach ridges, which are widely observed on low-latitude (long enough to be depicted on navigation charts) where only 1
barrier islands. Overwash is conversely a minor component of inlet exists presently. Pilkey et al. (1998) suggest the large
most tropical barrier islands. Even on eroding tropical islands, number of inlets was a product of increased storminess in the
dense rainforest vegetation, as on Columbian (Martinez et al., Little Ice Age.
1995) and Nigerian (Allen, 1965) islands, has the effect of both A comparison of the average length and width of wave-
stabilizing beach ridges rapidly and limiting overwash pene- dominated islands shows that those in temperate and arctic
tration. climates are significantly shorter and narrower than those in
Storms might be expected to affect the length and width of subtropical and tropical climates (Table 6). Islands in arid
islands depending on their frequency and intensity. Island climates are also notably longer. One plausible explanation is
Figure 14. (A) Barrier islands on the Niger Delta typically consist of wide sets of densely vegetated beach ridges (in light gray; mangroves are dark). The
delta progrades primarily by the seaward accretion of ridges on the existing barrier islands. Compared to the Mekong Delta, the continental shelf is steep and
narrow. (Earthsat Geocover, 2000.) (B) The Mekong Delta has grown seaward gradually through a series of leaps. The present shoreline is lined by low,
narrow barrier islands interrupted by major distributary channels. The modern islands are offset from a wide chenier plain, visible as bright subparallel
strips. Backbarrier deposition and mangrove development accompany the growth of new islands, while mud flats grow seaward of the islands on a wide,
shallow shelf. Note that mangroves are present only in the shelter of the active islands. (Google Earth, 2006.)
These islands tend to be less than 100 m wide because It is clear that no simple hierarchical relationship exists
progradation of mud is too rapid to allow concentration of a among the factors that influence barrier island distribution
large volume of sand. Other deltaic coasts with this pattern of and morphology. It is more apparent that any single factor may
island formation include the Irrawaddy (Myanmar), Indus be most influential in a given setting and more useful as a basis
(India and Pakistan), and Gurupi (Brazil; Souza Filho and for describing variability between islands. For example,
Cohen, 2003). locations such as south Texas have extreme climatic gradients
The pattern observed on deltas is also observed on nondeltaic but little change in the oceanographic regime. In other settings,
coastlines in Madagascar and in the Gulf of Carpentaria, such as the Georgia Bight and German Bight, there are
Australia, where mud is also abundant. Here, many islands substantial gradients in the wave–tide regime but little
also grow laterally and gradually overlap the older islands climatic variability (Hayes, 1979).
(Figure 15). In the Gulf of Carpentaria, a well-documented sea Our examination of barrier island distribution shows that
level fall has probably also caused these islands to jump whether barrier islands can exist or not exist in a particular
seaward. place is mostly determined by the history of tectonics and sea
level changes. As is true for most geologic processes, inheri-
CONCLUSION tance plays a crucial role. Within these constraints, barrier
islands will form most preferentially along low-gradient coastal
A New Classification of Barrier Islands?
plains under rising sea level, with deltaic island abundance
A useful and efficient global classification of barrier islands greatest along higher-gradient coasts experiencing falling sea
does not yet exist. However, global distribution and morpho- level. The varying roles of marine vs. fluvial processes on
logic patterns do emerge from a broad-based investigation. In coastal plains and deltas result in fundamentally different
particular, the influence of sea level rise and storm impacts on island morphologies at the global scale. Islands will form
barrier island distribution and morphology can perhaps be virtually anywhere if the sediment supply is favorable, even
more appreciated than before. given low energy levels. The greatest influence on sediment
Figure 15. (A) Growth of new barrier islands parallel to and seaward of recent island complexes in the Gulf of Carpentaria, Queensland, Australia. Modern
islands developed as falling sea level and a flat inner shelf promoted the abandonment of existing islands. Each generation of islands is separated by a bright
white supratidal surface. (B) In Western Madagascar, parallel lines of lightly shaded islands and former islands are distinguishable from dark mangrove
vegetation. (Google Earth, 2006.) (C) The islands of northern Brazil near Rio Gurupi are short and crescent shaped and are situated at the tip of mangrove
covered peninsulas, somewhat like the islands of the Mekong Delta. Groups of relatively closely spaced islands are separated by large funnel-shaped river
mouths. Cheniers are commonly preserved within the mangrove forest. The tidal amplitude here is 4–7 m. (Earthsat Geocover, 2000.)
supply—both quantity and quality—is the climate (Milliman change and the most severe impacts. The combined roles of
and Meade, 1983). The relative roles of storms vs. swells can climate and sea level rise in barrier island evolution need to be
determine the typical morphologic features present on islands, better understood in all regions to improve predictions about
and the dominant vegetation can significantly influence island the impacts of future sea level and climate change.
evolution. Within a given tectonic and climate setting, the
balance of wave and tidal energy can account for much of the LITERATURE CITED
variability in island morphology and evolution, although more Allen, J.R.L., 1965. Coastal geomorphology of Eastern Nigeria beach
clearly in coastal plain island systems. ridge barrier islands and vegetated tidal flats. Geologie en
There does not appear to be a clear prototype island for each Mijnbouw, 44, 1–21.
division and subdivision. However, the influence of the lowest- Carter, R.W.G. and Orford, J.D., 1984. Coarse clastic barrier beaches:
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