Authenticity and Institutional Context: Individual Preferences in China

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Journal of International Consumer Marketing

ISSN: 0896-1530 (Print) 1528-7068 (Online) Journal homepage: https://www.tandfonline.com/loi/wicm20

Authenticity and Institutional Context: Individual


Preferences in China

Glenn R. Carroll, Mi Feng, Yuanqiong He, Kieran O’Connor & Lihua Wang

To cite this article: Glenn R. Carroll, Mi Feng, Yuanqiong He, Kieran O’Connor & Lihua Wang
(2019): Authenticity and Institutional Context: Individual Preferences in China, Journal of
International Consumer Marketing, DOI: 10.1080/08961530.2019.1590281

To link to this article: https://doi.org/10.1080/08961530.2019.1590281

Published online: 05 Apr 2019.

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JOURNAL OF INTERNATIONAL CONSUMER MARKETING
https://doi.org/10.1080/08961530.2019.1590281

Authenticity and Institutional Context: Individual Preferences in China


Glenn R. Carrolla, Mi Fengb, Yuanqiong Hec, Kieran O’Connord and Lihua Wange
a
Stanford University, Stanford, California, USA; bBeijing Mikehudong Inc, 58.com, Beijing, China; cHuazhong University of Science and
Technology, Wuhan, China; dUniversity of Virginia, Charlottesville, Virginia, USA; eSan Francisco State University, San Francisco,
California, USA

ABSTRACT KEYWORDS
This study explores how and when the institutionalized classification system for products (or Authenticity; institu-
services) in a specific national market domain affects consumer perceptions of authenticity. tions; China
We argue that “type authenticity” presupposes a well-established and taken-for-granted clas-
sification system for a product or service. In domains with such systems, individuals will
place greater value on products or markets that exhibit high type authenticity—other forms
of authenticity, including craft, moral, or idiosyncratic authenticity, will be less salient. By
contrast, in domains without institutionalized systems, individuals will prioritize craft or
moral or idiosyncratic authenticity over type authenticity. To test these arguments, we con-
ducted studies in China where we asked participants to express preferences and make
choices about products described to evoke various kinds of authenticity. We also asked
these individuals to assess the authenticity of the producer organizations as well as their
willingness to pay for associated products. Specifically, we tested the arguments with data
on the appeal of various fictitious producers of leather handbags and green tea among
Chinese individuals. While the leather handbag is known in China, it is not highly institution-
alized whereas white tea clearly is. The findings generally support the hypotheses.

Introduction of the world’s population, and represent the bulk


Many social scientists recognize the appeal of of the future consumer market.
authenticity among individuals (Grayson and Why would consumers in developing markets
Martinec 2004; Beverland 2009; Peterson 1997). care about authenticity? On the one hand, the
This trend has been noted extensively in the U.S. typically simpler industrial structure and greater
and other highly developed consumer markets, agricultural orientation of these economies imply
leading some analysts to regard the appeal of that consumers might be more accustomed to
authenticity to consumers as a phenomenon typ- knowing (and choosing on the basis of) product
ical of advanced economies. For instance, origins and craft production systems. On the
Gilmore and Pine (2007) claim that consumer other hand, authenticity may be a taste criterion
concern with authenticity is a natural extension of affluent highly sophisticated consumers in
of the historical focus on product and service developed markets and beyond the imagination
quality in highly developed markets. of those populations more concerned with sub-
Research on authenticity has also been con- sistence or basic product safety. Research on con-
ducted primarily on consumers from advanced sumer perceptions in developed markets also
markets, even when the products originate in shows that imported products from developed
developing countries (e.g., handmade rugs, ethnic countries often enjoy a positive effect of their
handicrafts, and adventure tourism). Research on country of origin (COO), if it is clearly labeled.
the appeal (or not) of authenticity among con- So, the interest of consumers in less developed
sumers in developing countries is much less markets to goods and services perceived as
prevalent, especially systematic quantitative authentic is far from obvious—indeed, percep-
research. Yet, developing countries contain most tions of what is authentic likely even differ. And,

CONTACT Glenn R. Carroll gcarroll@stanford.edu Stanford University, Stanford, CA, USA.


Color versions of one or more of the figures in the article can be found online at www.tandfonline.com/wicm.
ß 2019 Taylor & Francis Group, LLC
2 G. R. CARROLL ET AL.

to our knowledge, little scientific research on this fundamental semantic interpretations of authenti-
topic has yet to be reported. city, what are sometimes called type, craft, moral
Accordingly, we ask here the basic research and idiosyncratic authenticity (Newman and
questions, Do consumers in developing econo- Smith 2016). As elaborated below, type authenti-
mies seek out and prefer for authenticity in their city concerns whether a producer is true to its
products and services? And, if so, then what assigned social category. It is important to recog-
forms does the appeal take? How do their tastes nize that type authenticity presupposes a well-
and purchase preferences differ from those of established and taken-for-granted classification
advanced economies? system for a product or service. In market
The research objectives of this study address domains with such systems, we build on conjec-
these questions. Most broadly, we aim to develop tures to argue that individuals will place greater
a theoretical framework for analyzing the appeal value on products or markets that exhibit high
of authenticity in consumer markets of developing type authenticity while other kinds of authenticity
and less developed economies. As part of that will be less salient, if not explicitly ignored. By
broad goal, we will demonstrate use of the pro- contrast, in market domains without institutional-
posed framework by analyzing and making predic- ized classification systems, individuals will priori-
tions about two specific product markets in China. tize other kinds of authenticity over type
Finally, we report tests of these predictions using authenticity. This is because type itself has less
originally collected data from several empirical meaning in these contexts—what value is there of
projects, introducing new evidence into under- being an iconic type if no one knows about or
standing authenticity in developing economies. cares about the type? Other concerns
While there are many directions we might pur- should prevail.
sue in exploring these questions and objectives, To test these arguments, we conducted
we focus on an important aspect of market devel- research in the People’s Republic of China.
opment—classification. By market development, Specifically, we executed three experiments and
we mean the establishment and organization of one survey in China where we asked individuals
economic, political and social institutions (includ- to make choice decisions based on the descrip-
ing norms) that underlay and support market tions of various (fictitious) producers of handbags
exchanges. In particular, we concentrate on how and silver needle tea (also called white tea, a type
institutionalized the classification system for a of green tea) written to emphasize various kinds
product (or service) is. At one extreme, we of authenticity. Handbags are a universal global
imagine a product market that relies on an estab- product while green tea is a long-established and
lished and institutionalized classification system highly institutionalized product among Chinese
of products to shape exchanges, much like the people. We also asked these individuals to assess
markets for art or music where genres define the the authenticity of the producers as well as their
categories of the classification system. At the willingness to pay for associated products that
other extreme, we envision a product market socially constructed authenticity accords value
where there is no real operative classification among consumers in advanced market. We rely
scheme. Parties in this type of exchange base on a framework from organizational theory that
their actions on their own perceptions, beliefs, integrates most other contemporary usages of the
and values, much like the market for hairstylists concept, by positing four kinds of authenticity,
or fitness trainers or tutors, for example. Of type, craft, moral, and idiosyncratic (Carroll and
course, most product markets can be placed Wheaton 2009). Accordingly, while this study
somewhere on a continuum spanning these two investigates the empirical foundations of a spe-
extremes even though they tend to tilt to one cific theory, it also speaks to broader questions
pole or the other. about socially constructed authenticity.
Theoretically, we develop arguments linking The scientific goals we pursued in this project
market development in terms of classification differ from the usual theory-testing approach
with the appeal of several very different but found in many contemporary social science
JOURNAL OF INTERNATIONAL CONSUMER MARKETING 3

articles. In our view, tight testing of theoretical example, a dance performance may be regarded
propositions about the various meanings of as an authentic Flamenco dance performance,
authenticity would be premature prior to estab- meaning that it accords well with the standards
lishing that, in fact, individuals can recognize and and conventions normally associated with
use these meanings on their own. In other words, Flamenco dance, a Spanish dance form originat-
we believed it was essential to make a case for ing in the Andalusian region. This is the primary
existence, or what Merton (1987) calls, meaning that we focus on in this article—we
“establishing the phenomenon.” Simon (1968) explore the differences of consumers’ authenticity
argues similarly that the initial development of attributions between markets that have or do not
scientific ideas often comes from examining have developed institutionalized categories.
empirical records. He goes on to claim that, By contrast, authenticity as a moral problem
“philosophy of science must be fully concerned derives from existential philosophy. In this usage,
with the origins of scientific theories as with their authenticity carries moral meaning about the val-
testing—indeed that the two are inextricably ues and choices seen as embedded in an object
interwoven” (Simon 1968: 439).1 As we describe or entity (Lau 2010). A person, for instance,
below, a research orientation of discovery does would be said to be authentic if she is sincere,
not imply that we forgo the development of assumes responsibility for her actions and makes
empirically falsifiable claims with respect to explicit value-based choices concerning those
behavior. It means simply that these claims take actions and appearances rather than accepting
on a different character than usual. preprogramed or socially imposed values and
actions. Likewise, by this interpretation, an
authentic dancer would be a performer who
Theoretical framework on authenticity
expresses herself uniquely through her steps,
Considered generally, authenticity is a semantic movements, and facial expressions rather than
attribution that individuals assign to certain just following a set choreography by rote (Sagiv
objects, individuals, places, and objectified activ- 2014). Although there is some tension between
ities such as services. For many consumers, the these two meanings, they should not be seen as
attribution conveys value above and beyond inherently contradictory or as mutually exclusive.
the objective and hedonic characteristics of the An entity can be seen as one or the other, as
object, especially when there is agreement about both, or as neither.
it (Fine 2004; Kovacs, Carroll, and Lehman 2014; Although each of the two basic meanings of
Potter 2010). However, the semantic meaning authenticity follows a long tradition, many con-
underlying the attribution often varies from con- temporary usages rely only on one meaning and
text to context and from person to person. This ignore the other. Conversely, other applications
variability can be seen among analysts as well as conflate the two meanings (perhaps unwittingly)
consumers and other individual members of and muddle the concept. These variations in
the society. usage are sometimes noted, but not always, creat-
How does the meaning differ among individu- ing confusion and misunderstanding. Finally,
als? A very fundamental–and long recognized– there are also some other meanings noted, many
difference involves distinguishing between of which are not widely used. An exception
authenticity as a classification problem and would be authenticity as provenance or what is
authenticity as a moral problem. In the classifica- sometimes called nominal authenticity (Dutton
tion interpretation, users analyze whether the 2003). This meaning refers to the veracity of a
object or entity meets the commonly accepted claim of origins; an authentic entity does indeed
criteria for inclusion or membership in a type or come from its purported origin (e.g., an original
category or genre. Obviously, this usage presumes silkscreen by Andy Warhol) whereas an
the existence of the associated type or category, inauthentic one (often regarded as counterfeit or
which is usually socially or culturally defined. For fraudulent in this context) does not.
4 G. R. CARROLL ET AL.

Typology of authenticities troupes. Using more systematic data, O’Connor,


In analyzing contemporary product markets, Carroll, and Kovacs (2017) reported a series of
Carroll and Wheaton (2009) identify two other systematic empirical tests they conducted using a
common meanings, that is, craft authenticity and variety of methods (experimental and non-experi-
mental) on participants from the U.S. Specifically,
idiosyncratic authenticity. Craft authenticity con-
they examined responses to three online experi-
cerns whether something is made using the
ments and one behavioral experiment using
appropriate techniques, methods and ingredients.
product descriptions designed to highlight the
An example would be Orvis bamboo fly fishing
various hypothesized types of organizational
rods, which the company describes as represent-
authenticity. O’Connor, Carroll, and Kovacs
ing “a lasting bastion of workbench
(2017) also used archival data from an online
craftsmanship.” Idiosyncratic authenticity refers
consumer review system to see whether patrons
to cases where there is a commonly recognized
recognize and value each of the four types of
historical quirkiness to the product or place. An
authenticity. In general, they found evidence that
example is Snow’s Barbecue in Lexington, Texas,
modern U.S. consumers: (1) recognize and distin-
an outdoor ramshackle operation with makeshift
guish among the four types of authenticity; (2)
pits and picnic tables, run by an 82-year-old
find authenticity appealing and assign it higher
woman and only open one morning per week,
value even when contrasted with quality; and (3)
when its food usually sells out after a few hours.
express a willingness to pay more for choices
Combining the two basic distinctions about
they make about authentic products.
the meaning of authenticity with craft and idio-
An obvious question that occurs to those con-
syncratic provides a comprehensive typology of
sidering this and other typologies on authenticity
four Weberian ideal types of authenticity. A
involves how consumers and other individuals
Weberian ideal type reflects the key conceptual
prioritize the various meanings. They often ask,
dimensions of a phenomenon, even though no which meaning of authenticity is most prevalent
perfect realization may exist (think of the graphic and dominates perceptions and choices? That is,
illustrations in a field guide to birds or plants). does one meaning of authenticity come to mind
Ideal types may overlap or intersect, meaning first for most people, most of the time? Our
that an entity might be characterized by more answer, based on a deep appreciation of the prior
than one type. For Weber, a crucial criterion for research on authenticity, is that there is no good
an ideal type is that it possesses adequacy of simple reply to this question—and never can be.
meaning and it is recognizable and interpretable Why? Because in our view, social context matters
in the social world. Comprehensiveness in a typ- more than anything else; context colors and con-
ology implies that it encompasses all the regular ditions the meanings that are invoked and the
usages of the concept. interpretations that are processed cognitively.
Weberian ideal typologies are sometimes Accordingly, we believe that theory about inter-
criticized for exaggerating differences among pretations of authenticity should be developed by
types relative to their actual realizations in the identifying and specifying the social conditions
social world. For an authenticity typology, we that make salient the various semantic under-
tend to regard this as a positive feature because it standings commonly used.
casts light on important theoretical distinctions
that might be conflated or ambiguous in the real
Claims as the context
world. In other words, it helps us see conceptual
differences often obscured in real entities or How? What kinds of conditions or contingencies
obfuscated by ambiguous language. should be considered? Two prior analyses focus
Prior empirical research in developed markets on the authenticity claim itself. Kovacs, Carroll,
provides some empirical support for the typology. and Lehman (2017) examined authenticity self-
Sagiv (2014) provided concrete examples using claims, proclamations by an organization’s man-
this typology in her analysis of Israeli dance agers about its own authenticity. They
JOURNAL OF INTERNATIONAL CONSUMER MARKETING 5

differentiate between type authenticity self-claims O’Connor, Carroll, and Kovacs (2017) report that
and moral authenticity self-claims. They find that diners reviewing restaurants tend to weigh craft
individuals view type self-claims negatively while authenticity most heavily; they find a similar ten-
they view moral self-claims positively. Lehman, dency among individuals when asked to assess
O’Connor, and Carroll (2019) examined the burgoo, an unfamiliar meat stew. By contrast,
behavioral responses of individuals based on their when choosing among various descriptions of
interpretations of authenticity. They show that chocolate, individuals tend to favor type authenti-
when individuals perceive an entity as type city. Together, these findings suggest that the
authentic, it often elicits a social response, while product or industry might prompt different
the perception of an entity as morally authentic meanings and associated values among authen-
prompts a self-oriented behavioral reaction. Both tic products.
studies suggest that different social and psycho-
logical dynamics surround the interpretation of Culture as the context
authenticity, yet neither of these studies attempts
to identify the situational circumstances or con- A third interesting social context that might color
text that will generate a particular interpretation. interpretations of authenticity is national culture.
Western and Asian cultures are thought by many
to contain important differences. Western cul-
Product/service market as the context
tures are individualistic and Asia cultures—
Another intriguing social context possibly worth including China—are collectivist (Markus and
exploring is the product or service market Kitayama 1991). A collectivist culture implies
domain. That is, a consumer’s ideas about a that individuals: (1) hold a self-conception that
product or service (and its associated market) strongly emphasizes their interdependence with
might drive the interpretation–and that percep- the groups and the society to which they belong;
tions about the authenticity of certain products (2) conform faithfully to social norms of groups
or services are grounded in one interpretation or and the society; (3) regard hierarchy as legitim-
another. For example, Qirko (2014) argues that ate; and (4) judge individuals by their groups,
emotion in the music of Cuban bands and songs especially their ancestry (Wong and Ahuvia
conveys authenticity. The designation could be 1998). Some analysts attribute the origins of
idiosyncratic, rooted in early random historical Asian collectivistic culture to Confucian tradition
usage, and then persistent within a community. and associated ancient values.
For example, Leigh, Peters, and Shelton (2006) What does collectivist culture have to do with
describe how MG car owners delight in interpret- consumer choice? According to Wong and
ing car history and their own driving activities as Ahuvia (1998), individuals from collectivist cul-
authentic. It is also possible that some general tures are more likely (than those from individual-
features of products (or services) and their mar- istic cultures) to buy products that reflect social
kets are associated with various interpretations. norms rather than individual self-expression or
For instance, Newman and Dhar (2014) claim hedonic preferences. These authors also argue
that consumers consider Louis Vuitton bags that individuals from collectivist cultures are
made at the original factory more authentic than more attracted to publicly visible possessions, and
those produced in more modern factories. that they are more apt to regard a manufacturer’s
Attempts to identify these products or their identity and brand as an indicator of product
relevant characteristics might be induced from quality. In partial support of these arguments,
empirical studies. For instance, Derbaix and Zhang and Neelankavil (1997) show that advertis-
Derbaix (2010) show that music fans regard as ing pitches emphasizing benefits to the collective
authentic those comeback tours of rock musicians (rather than to the individual) are more effective
that remain faithful to the original productions among Chinese consumers. Thus, beyond par-
and feature musicians true to themselves per- ticular products and industries, the broader cul-
forming for passionate audiences. Likewise, tural context may have a strong influence over
6 G. R. CARROLL ET AL.

consumer decisions and the link between differ- For example, Carroll and Swaminathan (2000)
ent meanings of authenticity within them noted the lack of appeal of micro-brewed beers
(Haytko et al. 2018). to Chinese consumers in Hong Kong in the late
1990s despite a strong appeal to expatriates.
Economic development as the context Why? They conjectured that the difference might
be related to cultural legacy and the timing of
A primary focus of consumer research in devel- economic development:
oping countries addresses the effects of a prod-
We can think of several general reasons why Chinese
uct’s COO, referred to as COO effects (Batra
consumers might prefer modern technology to
et al. 2000; Arora et al. 2016). COO effects often traditional production for products such as beer. The
predict how products originating from specific most intriguing has to do with the recency and
countries will be received in a developing coun- irregularity of economic and social development in
try, based on perceptions of the origin country’s locations such as Hong Kong. Unlike in the United
image and its accorded status (Essoussi and States, where the virtues of traditional production get
Merunka 2007). Other research in this vein romanticized, in places such as Hong Kong it is
remembered personally and vividly by many as the
abstracts up a level to consider how the class of
source of quality imperfections, higher costs and
products considered “foreign” fare in comparison inaccessibility. (pp. 754)
to products from domestic producers. These
studies sometimes consider how foreign origins
interact with product characteristics or typical Theoretical reduction and synthesis
usages to generate consumer impressions and
With so many possible contexts to consider—
appeal. For instance, whether a foreign product is
claims, product market, national culture and
typically consumed in private or in public might
economic development, among others—it was
affect its appeal. Research of this kind also tracks
how the appeal of foreign products changes with challenging to decide how to proceed and to
the market development of the economy (e.g., choose the avenue that appears most productive
Zhou and Hui 2003). Zhang and Merunka (2015) for theory and research. Given our objective of
show than within China, differences among spe- developing general abstract theory, we reasoned
cific “territories of origin” also matter for percep- as follows. Authenticity claims, for instance, were
tions of authenticity. dismissed as the context because they are likely
Product tastes also change with economic and to be endogenous to any valuations or percep-
market development, mainly as a result of rising tions made. Product market did not pass simple
affluence among the potential consumer base face validity tests of consistency as a reliable con-
(Wei 1997). For instance, Sun and Wu (2004) text for building general theory. As the Hong
find that Chinese consumers from urban (devel- Kong beer comment illustrates, the same product
oped) and rural (less developed) areas both fre- market—beer, in this case—often shows very dif-
quently listed houses, color televisions, and cars ferent interpretations across different instantia-
as products considered to reflect improved stand- tions. National culture (or any other set of
ards of living. However, when asked to describe subcultural communities) could be used as a reli-
their ideal future image, urban consumers often ably consistent context for developing theory, but
identified “spiritually enriching” and “natural” doing so runs the risk of reifying culture by sim-
while rural consumers were quick to cite “well- ply associating a different interpretation with
to-do” and “material rewarding” (both groups each culture, not to mention creating a hopelessly
mentioned “healthy,” “relaxed,” and “stable”). balkanized set of one-off propositions. That left
Consistent with Maslow (1943), this study shows economic development as a viable context for
that economic development and the affluence it constructing theory on the appeal and consump-
brings corresponds with a shift in consumer tion of authenticity. However, we doubt that var-
tastes from basic needs to more symbolic con- iations in authenticity’s appeal across national
cerns such as authenticity. economies can be explained by resorting to a
JOURNAL OF INTERNATIONAL CONSUMER MARKETING 7

single dimension of level of economic develop- classifiable into a persisting type, it may also qualify
ment—the framework is too narrow. for the newer less structured type.) At a minimum,
erosion of the classification system would seem to
Instead, we propose a synthetic theoretical
relegate type authenticity claims to a subset of
framework that builds on general insights about (perhaps minority or vintage) types or categories.
product markets. In other words, our proposal is (pp. 267).
to link relevant abstract characterizations of
product markets to consumer demand for Within food and dining, text analyses show
authenticity. For instance, level of economic that public discourse about authenticity rose dra-
development of a market, as indicated by degree matically exactly when the classification system
of exchange activities could be one driving force. was eroding. Some of this elevated discourse was
But we envision consideration of a much broader likely prompted by a rising interest in moral
set of dimensions of development of a market, authenticity with respect to food and authenticity.
ranging from local production and distribution to But something else important might have been
degree of regulation and more. Here we focus on going on as well, namely, type authenticity may
the market classification system. have been transformed or replaced or subsumed
by a conceptually related generic dimension of
authenticity that emphasizes skill and craftsman-
Market classification system as the context
ship rather than fit to a specific type or genre. In
What aspect of product market development essence, highly skilled craftsmanship and its asso-
likely affects consumer demand for different ciated trappings may represent a kind of fit to a
kinds of authenticities? In examining fine dining general super-category of authentic cooking or
in the U.S., Carroll and Wheaton (2009) noted cuisine. In other words, one kind of authenticity
that the institutionalized classification system for replaced another in appeal: craft authenticity
the fine dining market has eroded dramatically superseded type authenticity.
over the last several decades. Earlier (say the While we think the replacement issue is intri-
1960’s), most fine dining restaurants could read- guing, it also seems very context-specific. The ini-
ily be assigned clearly to one of about 30 well- tial point about the impact of the breakdown of
known categories such as seafood, steakhouse, the classification system on type authenticity does
diner, pizzeria, etc. While these categories have seem general and valuable, however. We suspect
not completely disappeared today, most restau- that it holds broadly and could serve as a useful
rants (usually well over 50 percent in a locale) starting point for comparing product markets.
today belong to a single dominant category usu- Moreover, since many contemporary product
ally called “contemporary.” As a result, the markets are bounded by national economic boun-
eroded classification system carries far less mean- daries, perhaps because consumption has a cul-
ing today and has far less value to diners, critics tural basis, we also think that it can be used to
and even participants in the industry. The break- understand national comparative differences in
down of the institutionalized classification system consumer demand for authenticity. So,
may have undermined type authenticity and we propose:
made it less compelling to both producers and Hypothesis 1 (H1): In market contexts where
patrons. Carroll and Wheaton (2009) reason that transactions are not shaped strongly by institu-
type authenticity became less prevalent in
tionalized classification systems, individual prefer-
this market:
ences and choices will prioritize other meanings
… if for no other reason than type authenticity of authenticity (craft, moral, or idiosyncratic)
obviously becomes more difficult to claim, represent over type authenticity.
and perceive when the type classification system
Hypothesis 1 springs from qualitative observa-
begins to erode or breakdown. Under such
conditions, type authenticity might get undermined tions about food and dining in the US. Another
entirely because classification generally becomes more empirical expectation follows logically from our
ambiguous (even if an object remains readily conceptions of institutionalized classification: once
8 G. R. CARROLL ET AL.

categories are established and institutionalized, it one of the studies below by distinguishing
would seem that high conformity to a category between Italian and Chinese handbags. Per
must carry value, often about authenticity. That is, Hypothesis 1 above, when Chinese consumers
the presence of an institutionalized classification evaluate and choose various presentations of
system would seem likely to generate producers, handbags—both Chinese and Italian—we expect
products and services evaluated against the cat- that type authenticity will not dominate, but
egory as type authentic. In fact, it would likely rather craft, moral or idiosyncratic will.
cause considerable rethinking of institutional the- White tea is a form of green tea, made from
ory if it does not hold. So, we also propose: the same plant but picked at a younger age and
Hypothesis 2 (H2): In market contexts where sold to consumers with less processing. The
transactions are shaped strongly by institutional- Chinese market for green tea is among the world’s
ized classification systems, individual preferences oldest and largest (Hicks 2009). The tea itself orig-
and choices will prioritize type authenticity over inates in Fujian Province and is considered a
other meanings of authenticity (craft, moral, drink of sophistication. White tea is a readily
idiosyncratic). available tea type but is not commonly consumed
by ordinary consumers outside of its production
Analysis strategy: context and regions. For those who know white tea, it is
outcome measures regarded as a very good quality tea, if not always
the very best or most expensive. For those who do
We chose China as the context for testing these not know specifically about white tea, it is none-
arguments. We did so primarily because it is theless something that is easily interpreted cogni-
potentially the largest consumer market in the tively. Like all tea in China, green tea is a highly
world, with over 1.3 billion individuals. China is institutionalized product and drink; it follows
also quickly becoming an advanced consumer well-known classification systems, albeit much of
economy with its per capita income soaring and this is informal or controlled through the supply
its consumers are becoming some of the most chain and pricing, as the state typically does not
sophisticated of any market. regulate (Hilal and Engelhardt 2007). According to
A major design choice of this study involved Hypothesis 2, we expect that in comparing various
identifying and studying market contexts in presentations of white tea, Chinese consumers will
China with low (H1) and high (H2) levels of prefer type authenticity over the other three kinds.
institutionalized classification systems present. In assessing Chinese consumer preferences for
We also wanted the study contexts to be signifi- these products, we used the following sequenced
cant, visible, and active consumer markets. After procedures. First, we designed and presented scen-
considering numerous possibilities, we selected arios that asked consumers to make a choice
the markets for leather handbags and white tea. among the various options (cf. O’Connor, Carroll,
By our expert and native assessments, leather and Kovacs 2017). Second, we asked respondents
handbags represent the under-institutionalized how much they would be willing to pay for the
low classification context (H1) and white tea the selected product, above or below a stated standard
highly institutionalized market context (H2). price. Third, we asked them to evaluate the vari-
Leather handbags are very popular in China, ous products on dimensions of interest. Fourth,
especially for women; the market size is estimated we asked participants about their perceptions of
at approximately US$1.2 billion in 2015. The authenticity of the various products presented.
handbags sold in China range wildly in price.
Yet, China has little social history of leather
Research study designs
handbags. No specific regulations apply and little
agreed upon classifications of a formal or infor- Table 1 gives the basic design parameters of the
mal nature exist. The purported COO of a hand- studies. The first two studies are about the authen-
bag does apparently seem to matter to many ticity of handbags while the third and fourth stud-
Chinese consumers and so we control for it in ies are about the authenticity of white tea. We use
JOURNAL OF INTERNATIONAL CONSUMER MARKETING 9

Table 1. Program of Empirical Studies.


Study N Population sampled Product Method Hypothesis Tested Quality Confound
1 128 PKU students Italian handbags Behavioral lab exp. 1 Controlled strictly (high)
2 116 PKU students Italian & Chinese handbags Behavioral lab exp. 1 Controlled Strictly (high)
3 76 PKU students White tea Behavioral lab exp. 2 Controlled strictly (high)
4 153 PRC students & shoppers White tea Field Survey 2 Controlled Strictly (high)

the first two studies to test Hypothesis 1 and the consumers may use authenticity as a label or sig-
second two studies to test Hypothesis 2. nal of underlying quality, even inadvertently or
We conducted the studies to build on each subconsciously. Therefore, it is important to con-
other in compiling evidence. The studies vary in trol for product quality. We did this by explicitly
the types of authentic items featured, the usual telling participants that all product options were
prices of the featured items, the types of individu- high quality products in all four studies.
als studied, the degree of real life involvement by
individuals, as well as the observational methods Findings
and sample sizes. Consistency of findings across
different studies builds a stronger evidentiary case. Studies 1 and 2: Product market with an
We conducted the first three studies in a uni- undeveloped classification system—handbags
versity behavioral lab in China using Mandarin Description. In Studies 1 and 2, participants in
language instructions and materials, which were the lab experiments were shown fictitious
translated and back translated to ensure accuracy. descriptions of leather handbags and were asked
We recruited participants from a pool maintained questions about them. The descriptions shown to
by the highly regarded Peking University (PKU); participants were designed to highlight what were
it is composed almost exclusively of students, believed to be relevant signifiers of each of the
both undergraduate and graduates. In all three four types of authenticity.
studies, we recruited participants using a nominal After viewing the descriptions, participants in
cash award (15–20 yuan, about $2-3). In each of both studies were asked to express a preference
these studies, participants were required to visit for one product among an array of those
the lab. Participants were shown various descrip- described. They later expressed their willingness
tions of a product, each written to emphasize one (or not) to pay more than usual in purchasing
of the various types of authenticity (detailed their preferred product. The only difference
below and shown in the Appendices in English between Studies 1 and 2 is that in the former,
translation). Participants were then asked a series participants are asked only about imported
of questions about their perceptions and assess- Italian handbags, while in Study 2, participants
ments of the various products described, includ- were asked on a random basis about either
ing their preferred choice. imported Italian handbags or domestic Chinese
The fourth study was designed to gather data handbags. We introduced this difference only out
in the field. We developed a questionnaire with of concerns about a possible COO effect.
the same information and questions as that of Participants. For each of the studies, we drew
Study 3, but also added some more detailed ques- an independent sample from a student partici-
tions on consumer preference of each type of pant pool of more about 2,000 individuals
white tea. We recruited respondents randomly expressing an interest in participating in research
from supermarkets and the campus of a major studies, maintained by the behavioral lab of a
university at Wuhan. We also used snowball business school.
sampling from the research teams’ personal Experimental procedure. We developed the
connections and a commercial survey firm’s following scenario for use in the experiment (text
client database. in quotes only):
An important potentially confounding factor On behalf of several good friends, you are going to a
for individuals assessing a product’s perceived nearby department store to buy a leather handbag in
authenticity is its perceived quality. That is, the leather goods department. This handbag will be a
10 G. R. CARROLL ET AL.

Table 2. Consumer Choice Among Italian Handbag Options (Studies 1 & 2).
Study Domain N Chose type auth. Chose moral auth. Chose craft auth. Chose idio. auth. Chi-Square Test p value
1 Handbags 128 20% 11% 54% 16% 61.42 <.001
2 Handbags 116 18% 18% 43% 21% 27.31 <.001

Table 3. Consumer Assessment of Most Authentic Handbag Among Four Handbag Options (Studies 1 & 2).
Study Domain N Chose type auth. Chose moral auth. Chose craft auth. Chose idio. auth. Chi-Square Test p value
1 Italian Handbags 128 39% 5% 47% 9% 30.60 <.001
2 Italian & Chinese Handbags 116 35% 9% 41% 16% 15.05 .002

birthday gift for a classmate sent by you and your dominant choice: 54% and 43% of participants
friends. Although you don’t need to choose a product chose craft authenticity in Study 1 and Study 2,
that everyone would agree upon, you should choose
respectively. As predicted by H1, type authenti-
the best gift within the same price range. Then you
came to the store and asked the salesperson where city is not favored in the under-institutionalized
you can buy a bag. You were led to an imported market context, chosen by 20% and 18% of par-
leather goods section and were introduced to several ticipants in Study 1 and Study 2, respectively.
handbags that were priced pretty much the same. The Table 3 presents the consumers’ assessment of
qualities of the four leather goods were the finest most authentic handbag among four handbag
among their kind. Also, the quality differences
options. In both Study 1 and Study 2, the handbag
between them cannot be detected by most people. In
the following page, you are going to read descriptions representing craft authenticity is considered as
about the four products. Then you will choose the most authentic by 47% and 41% of participants,
one you are most likely to buy. respectively, while the handbag representing the
The product descriptions were written to high- second highest category—type authenticity—is
light one particular kind of authenticity among chosen as most authentic product by 39% and
the four under investigation. In both studies, par- 35% of participants. In other words, participants
ticipants were presented the product descriptions favor craft authenticity over type authenticity.
in the order of: Moral/Type/Craft/Idiosyncratic. Figure 1 provides a different lens on H1. It shows
In Study 2 only, a distinction about national ori- that the percentage of respondents expressing a will-
gin of the bag was introduced. On a random ingness to pay more for their choices by authenticity
basis, about half the participants were shown bag types across the two studies. In all instances, more
descriptions purportedly from Italy and about than half of the participants said that they were willing
half from China. The bag companies were given to pay more than the typical price for their chosen
Italian and Chinese names and said to originate products. This pattern gives additional support for
from Italy or China. (Detailed products descrip- H1, suggesting that their choices are based on convic-
tions for each scenario, Italian and Chinese, are tion rather than happenstance.
shown in Appendices A and B). Given the importance of COO in much previ-
After seeing all the descriptions, participants in ous research, we conducted some additional ana-
each experiment where then asked to express a lysis for the handbag study where this
preference for one of the products. Participants information was provided (Study 2). Table 4
were also asked which product is more authentic shows handbag choices by COO. The dominance
and whether they would be willing to pay more of craft authenticity in this choice scenario is not
than the average product prices for their choice. affected by COO. In fact, the only real change
that COO information produces is with type
authenticity: Type authenticity seems important for
Findings for hypothesis 1
the imported Italian handbags, more important
Table 2 shows the distribution of consumer than idiosyncratic or moral, but that is not the case
choice across the authenticity types for the two for Chinese handbags, where type authenticity is
handbag experiments. The pattern is significantly the lowest ranking choice preference. Perhaps the
nonrandom. Craft authenticity is clearly the difference arises because there is a relatively well-
JOURNAL OF INTERNATIONAL CONSUMER MARKETING 11

Figure 1. Willingness to Pay for Handbags in Studies 1 & 2.

Table 4. Consumer Choice Among Italian and Chinese Sourced Handbags (Study 2).
Study Domain N Chose type auth. Chose moral auth. Chose craft auth. Chose idio. auth. Chi-Square Test p value
2 Italian Handbags 58 26% 12% 40% 22% 12.05 .007
2 Chinese Handbags 58 10% 24% 47% 19% 22.16 .001

developed institutionalized classification system for After viewing the product descriptions, partici-
Italian handbags but not for Chinese handbags. It pants were asked to express a preference for one
is hard to prefer type authenticity when there is product among four of those described. They later
not much of a widely recognized type. were asked to identify which product is most
Table 5 shows consumers’ assessment of the authentic and express their willingness to pay
most authentic handbag by COO. The results more than usual for their preferred product.
suggest that the product representing craft In a separate pretest to Study 3, we asked partici-
authenticity again was chosen as the most pants to rate each description as being more or less
authentic product by the highest percentages of associated with each authenticity type. We regarded
participants rather than other products for the this set of questions as a manipulation check—we
handbags from both Italy and China, consistent wanted to see if participants would recognize and
with H1. Again, a higher percentage of consum- lineup the descriptions with authenticity types. Out
ers view type authenticity as most important for of caution, the pretest also included a quality option
Italian handbags than for Chinese handbags. among the product descriptions.3 After seeing all
the descriptions, we then asked participants to iden-
tity the product they most strongly identified with
Study 3: Product market with a developed
each authenticity type or quality. This manipulation
classification system—white tea
check showed support for the materials used.
Description. In the lab experiment of Study 3, par- Participants. As with the prior two studies, we
ticipants were shown fictitious descriptions of white drew an independent sample from a student par-
tea, and were asked questions about them. The ticipant pool of more than 2,000 individuals
descriptions were designed to highlight what we expressing an interest in participating in research
designed to be relevant signifiers of the each of the studies, maintained by the behavioral lab of a
four types of authenticity, similar to what can be business school. Participants were recruited by
found on menu cards in expensive hotels in China.2 offering a gift card of nominal value. Students
12 G. R. CARROLL ET AL.

Table 5. Consumer Assessment of Most Authentic Handbag Among Four Handbag Options (Study 2).
Study Domain N Chose type auth. Chose moral auth. Chose craft auth. Chose idio. auth. Chi-Square Test p value
2 Italian Handbags 58 40% 5% 47% 9% 31.04 <.001
2 Chinese Handbags 58 29% 12% 34% 24% 6.25 .100

needed to come physically to a behavioral lab to whether they were familiar with white tea before
participate in the experiments. the study. We conducted a debriefing with each
Experimental procedure. We developed scen- participant to gather additional information. We
arios for a tea bar and a tea shop, which we sub- also asked participants whether they knew about
sequently grouped together in the data analysis white tea; very few knew much about white tea.
since patterns were similar. The scenarios read
(text in quotes only below): Study 4. Product market with a developed
Scenario for white tea in tea bar. “Recently, a tea bar classification system—white tea
opened near your home. You brought several friends.
The waitress introduced you to a new white tea Description. In Study 4, we developed a ques-
product called Silver Needle. The waitress brought tionnaire with the same scenario as the tea bar
you and your friends to a sample bar where four scenario in Study 3. The questionnaire has the
different brands of Silver Needle were shown with same product descriptions and the same ques-
written descriptions of each. The four products were
tions as Study 3. Study 4 also asked a set of add-
priced very similarly. Now you are going to read the
descriptions of these four products and decide which
itional questions related to the likelihood of
one to buy and share in the tea bar with your friends. purchasing each product and assessment of
authenticity of each product with 7-point Likert
Scenario for white tea in tea shop. “You are going to scales. We used a well-known survey company
a nearby grocery store to buy a white tea product named 51diaocha in China (similar to Qualtrics)
called Silver Needle to share with your friend after
to distribute the questionnaire. The questionnaire
dinner. After going into the grocery store, the
salesperson brought you to the corresponding shelf has a QR code that participants can scan with
and told you there are several different kinds of Silver their smart phones or computers and answer the
Needle, priced very similarly. In the following page questions on these devices.
you are going to read the description and then decide Participants. We used four primary channels
which one to buy.” to recruit participants. First, we recruited stu-
After the initial scenarios, participants in Study 3 dents on a major Chinese university campus and
were then presented detailed product descriptions asked them to complete the questionnaire on-site.
in the same order: Type/Moral/Craft/Idiosyncratic Second, our research team went to the entrances
(see Appendix C). As for quality, participants were and exits of supermarkets and tea bars/houses in
told: “The four types of white tea represent the fin- Wuhan, China to randomly select consumers to
est quality of white tea; you can hardly find any- fill the questionnaire on-site. Third, we used a
thing better in the market. Also, the quality snowball approach to send the survey link
differences among the four products are minimal through the research team’s personal connections.
and not detectable by most people.” Fourth, we collaborated with 21diaocha and ran-
Participants were then asked to express a pref- domly sent out the survey to their client data-
erence for one of the products. Participants were base. Through these four channels, we collected
also asked which product is more authentic and 157 questionnaires. We deleted four cases where
whether they would be willing to pay more than (1) the respondents had never consumed white
the usual prices for their choice. Willingness to tea; (2) the respondents only spent less than
pay more is another way of measuring strength 3 minutes to answer the questionnaire; (3) the
of choice preference. answers to the questions showed obvious random
After making their choices, we asked partici- picking of the answers. The final valid sample is
pants their age, gender, education level, native based on the remaining 153 respondents. The
language, major, family income, address, and approximate percentage from each of the four
JOURNAL OF INTERNATIONAL CONSUMER MARKETING 13

Table 6. Consumer Choice Among White Tea Options (Studies 3 & 4).
Study Domain N Chose type auth. Chose moral auth. Chose craft auth. Chose idio. auth. Chi-Square Test p value
3 White Tea 76 34% 24% 21% 21% 4.77 .189
4 White Tea 153 42% 27% 10% 20% 11.37 <.01

channels above is: 10% from university campus; authenticity interpretations. This pattern gives
40% from supermarkets and tea bars/houses; 40% additional support to H2.
from personal connections of the research team, Table 7 shows respondents’ perceptions of
and 10% from 51diaocha’s client database. which product is most authentic and the likeli-
Participants were recruited by offering a gift card hood of purchasing each product (1–7 scale) in
of nominal value. In the final sample, 78 (51%) Study 4. When asked which product is most
are women and 75 (49%) are men. 95.4% of authentic, 50% of respondents chose type authen-
respondents have bachelor’s degree or above. 56 ticity, while only 14%, 16%, and 20% of them
(36.6%) are currently university students while chose moral, craft, and idiosyncratic authenticity,
the rest are working in various organizations respectively. This result is also consistent with
(private or state-owned organizations).4 90.9% of H2: In a highly institutionalized market, type
respondents have family annual incomes above authenticity is more salient than moral, craft or
50,000 yuan. idiosyncratic authenticity.
When asked how likely to purchase each type
Findings for hypothesis 2 of tea in a 7-point scale (1 ¼ very unlikely and
7 ¼ very likely), type authenticity received the
Table 6 provides the distribution of consumer highest mean score (5.21) among four types of
choice across the authenticity types for Study 3 white teas. Consistent with H2, the t test of mean
and Study 4. In both studies, type authenticity is difference between type authenticity and craft
clearly the dominant choice: 34% of participants authenticity (the second highest mean score)
in Study 3 and 42% of respondents in Study 4 shows that the respondents are significantly more
chose the product representing type authenticity. likely to buy white teas with type authenticity
This is consistent with H2, which predicts that than with craft, moral and idiosyncratic authenti-
type authenticity is the most favored choice in a city (t(type>craft) ¼ 4.11, p < .02).
highly institutionalized market context.
Figure 2 shows the percentage of respondents
Discussion
expressing a willingness to pay more for their
choices by authenticity type across Study 3 and 4. Studies of individual perceptions and behaviors
In Study 3, more than half of participants choos- across countries and economies often explain dif-
ing certain authenticity type option were willing ferences as cultural. The most basic of these
to pay more for their chosen products. This per- kinds of explanations note the differences and
centage is especially higher for type authenticity simply attribute them to culture, leaving aside fur-
(81%) and idiosyncratic authenticity (94%) than ther analytical characterizations or distinctions,
for moral authenticity (56%) and craft authenti- although the mechanisms of cultural activation are
city (56%). In Study 4, 48% of the participants often recognized (Kacen and Lee 2002). Another
choosing type authenticity option said that they popular type of cultural analysis looks for more
were willing to pay more than the typical price abstract common characterizations of cultures and
for their chosen product. The percentages were points to similar outcomes as consequences. When
lower for other authenticity options. While the it comes to Chinese culture, a very common char-
percentage of those respondents who were willing acterization concerns its collectivist (as opposed to
to pay more for their choices are overall much individualist) orientation (Sun and Wu 2004; Tan
lower in Study 4 than in Study 3, it still clearly et al. 1998), which signifies the tendency of its
shows, as it has in Study 3, that consumers gen- members to value groups with higher priority
erally value type authenticity more than other than individuals. Another popular characterization
14 G. R. CARROLL ET AL.

Figure 2. Willingness to Pay for White Tea in Studies 3 & 4.

Table 7. Consumer Preferences Among White Tea Options (Study 4).


Study Query N Type Moral Craft Idio. t test/Chi2 Test p value
4 Authenticity (Top choice) 153 50% 14% 16% 20% Chi2 ¼ 14.0 .003
4 Likely to Purchase 153 5.21 (1.29) 4.93 (1.30) 4.95 (1.24) 4.82 (1.41) t(type>craft) ¼ 2.10 .02
Note: For Row 2, the measurement scale for likelihood of purchase for each tea product is from 1 (very unlikely) to 7 (very likely). The standard deviations
are in parentheses. Similarly, t test of mean difference is between products that provoke type authenticity and craft authenticity.

casts Chinese culture as high (as opposed to low) studies of more products, more market contexts,
context driven, meaning that information to inter- and more cultural variations. However, given the
pret events and actions already exist within an global trends of business and personal consump-
individual, it is implicit to interpretation (Hall tion, we suspect that studies on these topics will
1989; Kim, Pan, and Park 1998). become increasingly more important, both theor-
While appreciating the value of these tradi- etically and managerially. While the challenges
tions, our approach here differs in two important involved are awesome, they are also exciting. We
ways. First, we focused on a single aspect of con- look forward to watching relevant theory and
sumer behavior, authenticity. Second, we research progress.
attempted to explain observed behavioral differ-
ences by resorting to market development, in
Conclusion
particular, the level of development of classifica-
tion of the market. This approach led us to argue Scholars and marketers widely recognize that
that markets with highly developed classification consumers from advanced economies find
systems will foster consumer tastes that favor authenticity appealing in their products and serv-
type authenticity while those without developed ices. Less is known about when and how consum-
classifications systems will favor other interpreta- ers in developing economies seek out and prefer
tions of authenticity. The reported empirical authenticity. In addressing this issue, we show in
studies of Chinese consumers using leather hand- this study that the institutionalized classification
bags and green tea as the product market con- system for products (or services) in a particular
texts provide support for these arguments. national market domain can affect perceptions
The theoretical framework used here, whereby and demand for authenticity. Using an established
consumer behavior across cultures is explained theory of authenticity as a starting point, we
by resorting to varying market conditions is, we argued that “type authenticity” presupposes an
believe, capable of generating a more general the- institutionalized taken-for-granted classification
ory of consumer behavior. Of course, its value is system for a product or service. We then predicted
only hinted at here. To become useful, we need that in national market domains with such
JOURNAL OF INTERNATIONAL CONSUMER MARKETING 15

developed systems, individuals will place greater convenience samples and many of the participants
value on products or markets that exhibit high are students with bachelor’s degrees or graduate
type authenticity—other forms of authenticity, degrees. Authenticity may have a stronger appeal
including craft, moral, or idiosyncratic authenti- to them than to the general population.
city, will be less salient. By contrast, in national Still, we think researchers should be heartened
market domains without institutionalized classifi- by the findings reported here for several reasons.
cation systems, individuals will prioritize craft or First, the general theoretical framework used here
moral or idiosyncratic authenticity over type provides ample additional opportunities for further
authenticity. use and extension to other market domains,
In testing the arguments, we conducted experi- national settings and times and places. Beyond its
ments and a survey in China where we asked par- generative power, the framework holds the promise
ticipants to express preferences and make choices of providing a unified theory of consumer markets
about products described to evoke various types of rather than a set of ad hoc arguments based on
authenticity. We also asked these individuals to
context. Second, the theory made clear predictions
assess the authenticity of the producer organizations
that can be re-tested and evaluated in a wide var-
as well as their willingness to pay for associated
iety of other countries and product domains. Only
products. Specifically, we tested the arguments with
through sustained additional empirical testing will
data on the appeal of various fictitious producers of
we learn the true value of the arguments advanced
leather handbags and green tea among Chinese
here. Third, the findings presented here do stand
individuals. While the leather handbag is known in
China, it is not highly institutionalized whereas on their own as evidence about the appeal of
white tea clearly is. The findings generally sup- authenticity in the fast-developing consumer market
ported the hypotheses: individuals prefer type in China, soon to be the world’s largest. As world
authentic white tea while preferring other forms of economic power shifts east, it is important to
authenticity when evaluating handbags. gather consumer evidence from these countries and
Of course, the study is not without certain limi- to reevaluate and update our knowledge.
tations. First, and most importantly, findings from
a single country and economy at a specific point in Acknowledgment
time do not necessarily confirm a general theory
We appreciate greatly the contributions of several research
about countries and economies. To establish stron-
assistants to this study in helping to develop the instru-
ger validity, we need studies of more products,
ments and in running early pilots of the experiments.
more market contexts, and more cultural variations.
Given global trends of business and personal con-
sumption, we suspect that such studies will become
increasingly more prevalent. Second, the study uses Funding
a typology of authenticity developed in the Financial support was provided by the Stanford Graduate
advanced economies, and shows some predictive School of Business, and National Natural Science
value. However, consumers in developing econo- Foundation of China (No. 71772074).
mies may hold different interpretations of authen-
ticity. Future studies can enrich our understanding Notes
by determining better whether consumers from
developed and developing economies interpret 1. We also find a lack of compelling extant theory about
authenticity differently. Third, the study attempts the usage of various meanings of authenticity,
to understand how product market conditions suggesting that some documented empirical facts
might be provocative.
may affect consumers’ appeal to authenticity.
Future studies might also explore how consumers’ 2. We have seen tea menus at expensive hotels and cafes
individual characteristics (such as educational in China that offer white teas with names and
level, profession, etc.) interact with this phenom- descriptions remarkably similar to those we used in
enon. Finally, the samples used in this study are the experiment.
16 G. R. CARROLL ET AL.

3. After the pretest, we also changed slightly the wording Chinese and U.S. consumers. Journal of International
in the description for moral authenticity to Consumer Marketing 30(2):85–97.
deemphasize the use of fertilizer and pesticide because Hilal, Y., and U. Engelhardt. 2007. Characterisation of white
of recent concerns over food safety in China. tea—Comparison to green and black Tea. Journal f€ ur
Verbraucherschutz und Lebensmittelsicherheit 2(4):414–21.
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Potter, A. 2010. The authenticity hoax. New York: Harper- recycled by local furniture manufactures.
Collins. Type. Ferrara. Ferrara handbags are the quintessential
Sagiv, T. 2014. Reinvesting dance with meaning: Italian handbags. Founded in 1742 as a leatherman’s shop
Authenticity and ingenuity in the artistic dance field. In in Venice, the Ferrara family company has become the hall-
Handbook of organizational and entrepreneurial ingenuity, mark of Italian designer handbags. The products feature the
ed. B. Honig, J. Lampel, and I. Drori, 155–181. perfect balance between functionality and design, from one
Northampton, MA: Edward Elgar. of the original families in the business.
Simon, H. A. 1968. On judging the plausibility of theories. Craft. Cappanori. Each Cappanori handbag features a
In Logic, methodology, and philosophy of science, vol. 3, unique design that is individually handcrafted in the small
439–459. Amsterdam: North-Holland Publishing workshop in Venice, where our designers must complete a
Company. minimum of 10 years as an apprentice to our master crafts-
Sun, T., and G. Wu. 2004. Consumption patterns of Chinese men. The master craftsmen use little modern technology in
urban and rural consumers. Journal of Consumer the process, utilizing only handmade knives, punches, and
Marketing 21(4):245–53. doi: 10.1108/07363760410542156. swivels to produce each piece as they have been made for
Tan, B. C., K. K. Wei, R. T. Watson, D. L. Clapper, and hundreds of years.
E. R. Mclean. 1998. Computer-mediated communication Idiosyncratic. La Spezia. La Spezia specializes in unique
and majority influence: Assessing the impact in an indi- handbags produced in northern Italy. The leather for each
vidualistic and a collectivistic culture. Management handbag is first cut and dried only on nights of full moons
Science 44(9):1263–78. doi: 10.1287/mnsc.44.9.1263. (the company’s founder insists that the lunar light is
Wei, R. 1997. Emerging lifestyles in China and consequen- absorbed by all handbags). Each bag is also designed to
ces for perception of advertising, buying behavior and have exactly 1,982 stitches, representing the year the found-
consumption preferences. International Journal of er’s first child was born, and a trademark secret inner
Advertising 16(4):261–75. doi: 10.1080/ pocket to protect any valuables.
02650487.1997.11104695.
Wong, N. Y., and A. C. Ahuvia. 1998. Personal taste and
family face: luxury consumption in Confucian and APPENDIX B
Western societies. Psychology and Marketing 15(5): Chinese handbag product descriptions shown to
423–41. doi: 10.1002/(SICI)1520-6793(199808)15:5<423::
participants
AID-MAR2>3.0.CO;2-9.
Zhang, M., and D. Merunka. 2015. The impact of territory (Intended type of authenticity is given in italics and under-
of origin on product authenticity perceptions: an empir- lined; it was not shown to participants)
ical analysis in China. Asia Pacific Journal of Marketing Moral. Tian Shan Mu Ge (Snow Mountain Pastoral).
and Logistics 27(3):385–405. doi: 10.1108/APJML-12- All handbags made by Tian Shan Mu Ge are produced
2014-0180. from leather of cattle and sheep raised on 100% organic
Zhang, Y., and J. P. Neelankavil. 1997. The influence of cul- farms located around 40 degrees north latitude in Xinjiang
ture on advertising effectiveness in China and the USA: a Province. The dyes used in production are all natural, and
cross-cultural study. European Journal of Marketing are never produced with any chemicals commonly found in
31(2):134–49. doi: 10.1108/03090569710157106. leather treatment dies, such as benzidine and petro-chemi-
Zhou, L., and M. K. Hui. 2003. Symbolic value of foreign cals. The production facility is entirely green powered, and
products in the People’s Republic of China. Journal of all waste is recycled by local furniture manufactures.
International Marketing 11(2):36–58. doi: 10.1509/ Type. Xi Yu Qiu Ji (Western Regions Fur Tales). Xi
jimk.11.2.36.20163. Yu Qiu Ji handbags are the quintessential Italian handbags.
Founded around the transition of Ming and Qing dynasty
as a leatherman’s shop in Hu Sha Valley, the Xi Yu Qiu Ji
APPENDIX A products have become the hallmark of Chinese leather
Italian handbag product descriptions shown to handbags. The products feature the perfect balance between
functionality and design, from one of the original families
participants
in the business.
(Intended type of authenticity is given in italics and under- Craft. Lou Lan Pi Fang (Kror€an Leather Workshop).
lined; it was not shown to participants) Each LouLan Pi Fang handbag features a unique design that
18 G. R. CARROLL ET AL.

is individually handcrafted in the small workshop in LouLan, Xie’s “Silver Needle” is donated to a local tea institute for
the center of silk and leather trade along Silk Road. Its promoting the “White Tea Culture.”
designers must complete a minimum of 10 years as an Type. Chen’s Silver Needle. The Chen family settled
apprentice to our master craftsmen. The master craftsmen in Fuding County and their renowned family “Silver
use little modern technology in the process, utilizing only Needle” came to be seen as a quintessential White Tea.
handmade knives, punches, and swivels to produce each Tea leaves of Chen’s “Silver Needle” are still picked from
piece as they have been made for hundreds of years. the same type of white tea trees that the Chen family has
Idiosyncratic. Ku Ku Zhuo Er (Kokonor blue lac). Ku been cultivating for multiple generations. Only a few leaf
Ku Zhuo Er specializes in unique handbags produced in the sprouts showing the right shape, greenness, and position
Qinghai Lake region, near northeastern Tibetan Plateau. from each tea tree are selected to make the “Silver
The leather for each handbag is first cut and dried only on Needle.” In addition, only the very first sprouted leaves
nights of full moons (the company’s founder insists that the from each tea tree every spring are considered to qualify
lunar light is absorbed by all handbags). Each bag is also as “Silver Needle.”
designed to have exactly 1,978 stitches, representing the Craft. An’s Silver Needle. An’s “Silver Needle” uses only
year the founder’s first child was born. In addition, in each
carefully hand-selected tea leaf sprouts featuring the proto-
Ku Ku Zhuo Er handbag, there is a trademark secret inner
typical needle shape. After being air-dried on flat porcelain
pocket to protect any valuables.
containers in the airing room until the optimal dryness is
achieved, tea experts bake the sprouts in traditional outdoor
APPENDIX C ovens fueled by an open wood fire. Baking is finished when
the whiteness of tea leaf appears to be the same color as a
White tea product descriptions sample of the original “Silver Needle” that the An family
(Intended type of authenticity is given in italics and under- has kept for more than 100 years.
lined; it was not shown to participants) Idiosyncratic. Wang’s Silver Needle. Tea leaves for
Moral. Xie’s Silver Needle. Xie’s “Silver Needle” uses tea Wang’s “Silver Needle” are picked only between 5:00am and
leaves only from organically grown tea trees. No fertilizers 7:00am in the last week of March (Chinese lunar calendar)
or preservatives are used in the tea farms. This method by young females. The fresh sprouts are then dried for
ensures the environmental sustainability of the local moun- exactly seven days in a stone cave, which is believed to be
tain areas. The Xie Company also provides full labor pro- the home of the local tea god. Only the oldest man in the
tection to its workers, with most of whom are from the Wang Village can finish the last step by tasting the first cup
local community. Every year, a portion of revenue from of tea and announcing it “Silver Needle.”

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